Wow, nice sleuthing!

Just picked up Count Down and we love it
Only issue is I cannot add more then one credit on it

Was wondering if anyone had a suggestion of where to look/what to replace

My initial thought is NVRAM?
Maybe install one ?

Is it running all original boards? Can you take a picture of the boards in the back box? A close up with the DIP switches may help too.

Are you trying to put it on free play? There's a few simple solutions to alleviate this issue.

Check out the pinwiki article on setting system 1 games to free play. 3.5.1

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Thank you !
It is all original
Here are some pictures

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Thanks for the replies
I’m not a novice but I am with these system 1s and I don’t want to screw the pooch on it

Derby party fun!! Always love having parties like this to see what people gravitate towards.

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Here's my baby looking amazing. Can't beat a good Sinbad, with pascal.

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Selling a pair of SYS3 and SYS80 MPUs
Unknown condition Sys80 MPU: $60
This one works as far as I know. Replaced it when I was doing a board overhaul, but seemed to be working 100% when removed
Gottlieb Sys3 CPU: $125
Gave me a U6 error originally. Replaced the DS1210, then was getting a U3 error. Replaced the board because I got lazy.

Get both of em shipped continental US for $150. PM me.

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Black Hole question;

Lower playfield----

When the play is over on the lower PF, ball does come back to uppper pf. but the problem is that the light stays on, right flipper is inop but left flipper is operative then entire rest of the play.

I noticed several switches in the lower PF were inop, and I suspected the connectors first. I reseated three times but did not make any kind of positive outcome.

This is one of Ken Layton's babies and I cannot fault his documentation or prior work.

Looking for a shortcut.

The relays, in continuity test, appear to be good and ohm out correctly. The switches out do not appear to be related, meaning related to similar circuits.

TYVM IN ADVANCE!

Might be a bit of a silly question, but I finally got a better look in the backbox of my diamond lady, and it appears I’m missing the board/component circled. What exactly is it? I don’t have a manual for diamond lady and couldn’t find a PDF online. Any help would be awesome.

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Power supply.

I have a few 80b power supplies for sale on eBay. I'd recommend you just buy an aftermarket Gulf Pinball one though.

ebay.com link: itm

ebay.com link: itm

Please remove the battery before it leaks. It's over 40 years old.

Please remove the battery before it leaks. It's over 40 years old

Sorry Chuckwurt wrong post

On it!

It took me a while but I finally figured this out. The test switch inside the coin door was mechanically broken, internally, but in a weird way. Most of the time, instead of behaving like a momentary contact, normally-open pushbutton, it behaved like a momentary contact, NORMALLY-CLOSED pushbutton. Fiddling around with it, I could feel that something wasn't quite right. The button's plastic housing was loose, not solidly attached to the threaded metal part, as if somebody had pushed the button super hard. One of the weirdest things I've ever seen, but a simple fix!

Sold my Big House a few weeks ago and the new owner had a fix for the credits.
He drilled a hole in the coindoor, put a button there and hooked that to the wiring of one of the coin switches.
Easier then having to open the door all the time, just thought I'd share this with you guys

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I add a secondary switch to the left initials button. Had the parts laying around. Free play roms are available for them as well.

Unfortunately someone did this on my Genesis, Volcano, and Red Baron too. No reason to drill any holes in the coin door.

For Machines that don't have a freeplay setting the best method I've seen was to use an old plastic coin mech where someone mounted a leaf switch to it. Whenever the reject button was pushed it adds credits. No mods to the coin door other than soldering jumper wires to the existing switch which can easily be undone. Unlike drilling extra holes which is permanent. At least it looks like it was done neatly but better not to drill holes in the door at all.

Thats why I didn't try this method, not a fan either but if you're planning on keeping a game: it is an option. Your idea is a lot better though, will remember if I ever get another machine without free play. Thanks!

This is what someone did on my Buck Rogers. Added a leaf switch to an old plastic coin mech. Works great!

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I just connected a momentary to the unused center mech lead wires. You just open the door and add a dozen credits and you’re good to go

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I have a swemmer MPU in my big house. It doesn’t hold the high scores after power off. Adjustment 6 is already set to off so they shouldn’t reset.

Thoughts?

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Failing NVRAM and/or nearby transistor??? Seems that part of the Swemmer board was prone to problems…
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swemmer-board-sys80b-no-longer-booting

If anyone is doing a playfield swap now or in the future I have plenty of the wiring staples for your needs. I'm not selling the box. I will send you a row of staples. I "think" one/two full row of staples should complete a playfield and cabinet. I included a picture of the staple gun I use, it's not for sale

Unicatch 22 Gauge 71 Series 3/8 Inch Crown by 1/4 Inch Leg Length Galvanized Fine Wire Staples or Upholstery Staples (10,00pcs/Box) Similar to BEA 71/06 and Senco C04
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Where is the NVRAM on my picture?

Would have been on the upper left but you didn't picture it.

Also I read that this game needs 5101 nvram but this one below only lists Williams games?

https://pinballelectronics.com/index.php/product/5101-nvram-battery-eliminator-module-for-williams-pinball-machines/

You don't have nvram on yours that's a regular 5101. But the transistor is still in the circuit, I'm not sure what you'd need to do there to fix it. It's one of the surface mount ones to the right of the socket I don't know which one though.

Okay. Not sure where to go from here either.

The pinitech and likely the anypin 5101 will work on gottlieb boards - something about a second /CE being needed, or inverted - not sure. I just get the pinitech ones when they're in stock for all my games since they will work on all my boards.

Your existing 5101 might be bad as well have you tried changing it? Looked like it's soldered in on your board... bummer.

You need to put in a battery to keep the high scores since (as slochar said) you have regular RAM and not NVRAM on your board.
There might be nothing wrong besides that.

I see. And what if I change out the regular 5101 with a 5101 nvram. Should that get me where I need to go as well?

Which is the 5101? I only see socketed chips on this board.

It's the one with the red circle around it here.

I'm not familiar with the Schwemmer boards, so I do not not which NVRAM to use here.
The larger socket around the smaller one seems to indicate you can use something like a FM1608, but check the manual.

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Thanks. That chip is definitely socketed. So just a matter of find an appropriate nvram.

slochar so get a pin tech 5101 yeah?

This is the one that should work:
https://www.pinitech.com/products/5101_nvram.php

Great thanks.

Reaching out for some troubleshooting assistance with my newly acquired Gottlieb Caveman pinball machine. This game was operational, with some small sound issues, and the seller recorded a video of the game in action. However, after performing bulletproofing and recommended ground modifications, the game will not boot up and play. Before going any further, the following were performed:
• All solid state boards are original style (no upgraded aftermarket boards).
• Recommended ground modifications were installed to all boards.
• Original orange capacitors were replaced with 12,000 mfd @ 25V radial snap capacitors (from Marco’s Specialties).
• All single side connectors were repinned, including the A23-J2 connector at the I / O board.
• Installed the updated Caveman Evolutions eeprom (designed by Davroux Brothers).
• All fuses checked and good.
When the pinball was first energized, the displays all illuminated, but most of the playfield lights ( not all ) locked on
and there is NO attract mode. The test mode cannot be activated nor can any credits be added. All the while the video is in GERMAN attract mode. All the tilt (pendulum/ ball roll / playfield side to side all normally open) and the slam switch (normally closed) were in correct position. After being powered up and performing various tests, now the displays DO NOT illuminate and different lighting stays locked on, and still CANNOT get a game started. I even tried swapping out a working Swemmer MPU board, but the results were the same (with no changes), so the problem lies in the game.
I scoured and searched the internet and YouTube for information and answers, but only found a little information. Can anyone provide any insight, or point me in the right direction as to where to start troubleshooting this game? I really do not know where to start. Thanks for your help.

I am considering selling some Holy Grail Gottlieb parts. I planned on building an Eclipse but I don’t see this ever happening for me. This is what I have:

The archival proof NOS Eclipse playfield
The archival proof NOS Eclipse backglass
NOS plastic set
NOS pop bumper bodies
The PBR reproduction manual
There is some other stuff that I purchased like an after market sound card and and NOS Pop caps in the wrong color that I will also include.

I’m not interested in breaking up the set.

The price would be 3k and I am firm on that. I have never seen another playfield available in all the years I have been collecting. PM me if you are interested.

Seems like a more than reasonable price for the package. Hope someone jumps on it.

Not one you see too often.

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Glad to see someone hopped on that deal.

Insanely fun game. Great cabinet too. Love the skinny head.

Just picked up a Pinball Pool on the cheap side. Lady said, it was working fine then I smelled something burning and shut it down after a minute or so.
Upon inspection I noticed the coil going to the upper kick out hole chard to a cinder, wiring not fried. Also the 5 amp and 2 amp slo blo fuses were cooked as well. Does this look like damage to the driver? If so, is it worth sending out for repair (I don't do board repair) or just purchase another one?
NI-Wumph and PBR are out of stock of Dave's driver board at the moment. The pin has a NI-Wumph CPU. Who ever worked on the pin before made a note in the back box that it was re-pinned June 2018. Any help and opinions are greatly appreciated.

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Hey guys, I have a Chicago cubs triple play in good working order. I noticed that the back ground sound is no longer there. All other sounds from playfield switches work as they should but the constant background music is not. The sound board is a MA-490 and has the daughter board attached to it. It also has 2 dips switches at the top but not sure what they do. When I try different configurations of the dips I can get some sounds but they are distorted. Any help is appreciated.

The driver board is easily repairable. You'll need to determine if it's a shorted coil or something else that cooked things.
I diode test the driver transistor, test the diode associated with it, and test the ohms on the coil. Replace whatever tested bad.

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well, i had intermittent sound on my Alien Star, would not always be one, especially background sound. Seems to go on and off when jiggling the Driver board to Control board connector (new repro one) so i cleaned and reflow the connected of the Control board but now...

no sound at all, not a peep even when jiggling every connector so i assume i shorted something somehow on the board related to the sound?