And I think the diode board on Bad Girls is different. I’m going to dive in today and report back.

Okay found where this is in bad girls. It’s under the playfield by the flippers. Has the same connector label as diamond lady which had this board up by the front of the cabinet.

However, in bad girls there’s an identical diode board under the playfield by the flippers too.

I’m having trouble confirming the one I took out operates the coin door switches. Can someone help?

1A7-J1 is the connector at the diode board and the switches are operated by A1J5 of the control board. I cannot find 1A7-J1 anywhere in the schematics and here is all I see related to J5.

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Update. Jumping pin 4 and 10 on the back of the board did nothing. Neither initials button adds credits. Might just add another switch as I had spares in my stuff unless someone has another idea.

Also confirmed via the Big House manual. No diode board.

How would adding a credit button work? Connect it to a coin switch or something?
I would love putting my Big House on free play, but if that is not possible: a credit switch is a good alternative.

I was trying to avoid adding a switch, but that is what I ended up doing. Just added one to the back of the left initials button.

if I understand right, the diode boards are gottliebs way instead of diodes on the individual switches, so you would just need to jumper the right switches instead.. I think.. maybe

Yes you’re right. But the switches on the coin door aren’t in the matrix and cannot find where the start button and the initials buttons are to see what diodes drive them.

Can you just burn a new ROM with freeplay from flipprojets.fr?

Yep.

Here's where the cabinet/coin door switches are in the switch matrix for Bad Girls (in red).

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Weird. My manual didn’t have the stuff in red. Is there a way to tell what diodes relate to those switches? I’m not see it.

I drew the red stuff based on the info from the cabinet wiring diagram - bottom right of the page with the mains transformer

Post clear pictures of the two diode boards under the playfield you mentioned. The connector wire colors should help indicate which diodes.

BTW, do you see any connectors marked A9J1 / A9P1? (these appear to interface the cabinet switch wiring to the playfield wiring somewhere)

2A7 P1

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And 1A7 J1

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A new translite for Excalibur is available. Its got a lot more color to match the pf and horses to go with the sounds. If anyone is interested pm me.

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Nice, definitely one of the better efforts as far as alternate translites go. How's the image quality when printed on a large surface?

Looks to me like the cabinet /coin door switches are run to different diode boards - I think you mentioned there were four boards under the playfield? In the pictures of the two diode boards you posted I think I see most of the wires, but there's likely another diode board involved aswell.

Anyway on diode board at 1A7 P1, the blue jumper link shown below should tie the left advance button to the left coin chute, or if you prefer using the right advance button add the jumper link shown in pink instead.
See how you go.

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Thanks! This will be helpful for the pinwiki.

I am looking for a copy of Raven sounds ROMs. Please send me a PM if you have a copy you could send to me.

PM send....

I'd like to turn off background sound (crowd cheering) on The Games (Gottlieb 1984). According to the manual, DIP switch 31 OFF should disable background sound. It looks like something that was added to the manual after it was initially published (see image). I toggled switch 31 and it has no effect on background sound. The DIP switch reference sticker in the backbox contradicts the manual (it indicates that switch 31 and 32 are unused). I'm scratching my head here. Is there a way to disable the background sound on this System 80A game?

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Going to try this, thank you!

Fyi. Big House doesn’t have these boards.

Let us know how it goes!

Where are the switch matrix diodes? Did they put them on the actual switches like other manufacturers?

I am working on a #Charlie's Angels and have a problem with the displays. When I turn on the machine (after it has been off for a while) it does the normal start up and functions correctly, except the 5 displays do not do not light. I then turn it off for 15 seconds and turn it back on the system starts up and all five displays turn on and everything functions correctly. If I turn it off and leave the machine off for 10 minutes, then turn it back on the problem returns and the displays do not light.

I believe the issue is maybe with the display processing on the CPU or maybe the power supply. The displays and display harness are good. I am thinking the issue may be a capacitor that doesn't get up to full power on the initial start up, but woks on the second start up because is is still holding a partial charge from the initial startup. The power suppy was updated and ground mods done. The CPU has the ground mods. All connectors on the powers supply have been replaced with trifurcon connectors. Edge connectors on the CPU have been repinned.

Has anybody seen this behaviour before? Or better yet, know of a solution to resolve the problem.

Picked up a Bad Girls with a couple issues:
1- About every other time game is powered up the display fails to come on and power cycle again to get to work
2- Right sling doesn’t fire

Repin the connectors going to and from the displays.

Do the ground mods. Then see where you’re at.

That was done.

I swapped out power supplies last night and the behaviour seems to have dissappeared. So it is an issue with the 69V circuit I am thinking C6 probably. Maybe C7, C8, C9 or C10.

Any other insight before I blindly go replacing componnets?

That’s all I got. Since I’m not good at board work, I typically send my board set out to get bulletproofed when I get a new game that hasn’t been serviced in a long time.

One other thing has me wracking my brains. In this System 80A game ("The Games"), I can use the button inside the coin door to look at bookkeeping and run self-tests, but... here's the problem: the self-test steps work mostly as they should, 16 (Relays and lamps), 17 (solenoids, sounds, and operator switches)... but when I advance to step 18 (switch test) the machine just skips past it and starts step 19 (display test). I can see "18" in the score display for a split-second before the display test starts. Happens EVERY TIME. What the heck? I doesn't appear that the button inside the coin door is bouncy (it works perfectly for everything else). When I advance to step 18, I expect to see "18 99" in the score display (or "18 67" with a ball in the outhole) before I press the button to advance to step 19. Any clues?

Hey guys - quick question for you…

Picked up a Hollywood heat a couple months ago. Had the boards gone through. Ground mod was done in the cabinet. Game works and plays great but I’m getting what I assume is some weird display stuff.

Best I can explain is that when a digit/letter is not being used it it still somewhat lit. Was like this when I got it.
Seems as though it’s most noticeable when there are less digits lit up ie scrolling through on attract mode. When it gets to the recent scores ie 00000000 for each player it seems like it’s less noticeable.

Couldn’t really find any info/or similar issues. Anything I can focus on to try and resolve this? I’m new to Gottlieb

Pics below
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Check your display voltages.
Maybe one of the is on the high side.

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Interestingly, if I download and run the virtual version of this table in Visual Pinball, Switch 31 behaves the same as my real machine (Switch 31 does not disable background sound despite what the manual says). Is it possible that a newer version of certain ROMs or PROMs exists for The Games (i.e. a newer version of U2, U3, or the game PROM)?

Nope, just the one version available.

I don't understand how Sys 80 handles the lamp drivers when they are used to drive a relay coil instead of a lamp. Looking at Black Hole and Haunted House schematics I can't figure out which of the 'L's are specifically designated for driving coils at 28v. The two games use different low-number lamp driver #s for various relay coils. Which 'L' transistors on the driver board are for driving relay coils and which are for driving lamps? Is a relay coil the biggest coil that can be run on one of these lamp drivers?

Relays are the largest coil that could run. Anything larger does the under playfield transistor to drive a larger coil.

A small transistor at a low voltage can be used to drive a large transistor at a high voltage. Even for the large transistors on the driver board it only uses 5v to drive and the high voltage tasses through it to ground.

In the case of a remote transistor. 5v is applied to the transistor allowing lamp voltage to flow (it may be a different low voltage but I don't think so) that low voltage is applied to the large transistor allowing the high voltage to flow through to ground. Unless the large transistor shorts the high voltage never goes to the small driver transistor.

The Black Hole playfield schematic lists the lamp numbers from the driver board that directly drives relays and power transistor driven solenoids.
For example:

Driver board schematic with lamp number outputs:

Lamp_Drivers.png

Playfield schematic with lamp number outputs derived to drive relays/remote power transistor assisted solenoids.

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Having an issue with the lockdown bar locking mechanism. After a few games (Big House) played, the latch becomes loose and therefore causes my play field to not be level. Anyone have this happen before? Any remedies?

Thanks guys, I understand the lamp drivers now - so no pre-determined assignments for the coil 'L's per se, they could have used *any* of the lamp drivers for driving a relay coil or as a pre-driver transistor for a larger coil.

Wait a second, is that correct? Now looking at it again I don't understand for example, U relay on BH. It's on L16 on the 24 volt line. How does that work if it's a lamp driver? Is L16 different in that it intended for 24v vs. 6? And the red-boxed ones are fixed that way?

The 24v passes through the large transistor to ground. The small transistor just sends the low voltage that turns the large transistor on.

I just got back from Boise ID and grabbed Steve Charland's (Blown Fuse) Goin' Nuts from his daughter and wife. So the one on the owners map in the Bay area is now here in Reno. So we still only know where 5 of them are, even though it shows 6. I will probably have it a the GSPF next month. Here's the text from my FB and Instagram post I just put up:

To my non pinhead friends, this is the definition of a pinball unicorn. 10 made in 1983, right before Gottlieb was sold to Mylstar. It never went into production. This is one of 5 known to still exist, it's highly coveted and there are hardcore pinheads who have never even see one of these in person. There are now 2 in Nevada, 1 in Illinois, 1 in Spain and 1 in France. That's it. The gentleman that last owned it was a near and dear friend of mine and a legend in the pinball community. His name was Steve Charland, R.I.P., and he was known as Mr. System 80 (which this is one of them). It was the gem of his collection, and it's now the gem of my collection. If I wasn't known as Rare Mike before, I certainly am now. That's funny because I'm a well done guy..... Thanks for reading, and happy zombie Jesus day!

Thank you Amber and Cathy! <3

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Just brought a black hole home, fixing it up for a good friend. Then get to keep it for a few months. Yesterday I cleaned up both playfields and put new rubber in. Waiting on a PS to MPU harness to come in. Little bit of battery damage on the mpu but overall, looking good so far.

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Hi guys and gals, happy to find this club as I'm a massive Gottlieb fan. Generally Gottliebs are not overly appreciated here in the UK but I've adored them since I was a child, most games I remember playing while growing up looking back were System 3s. Since being in the hobby I got stuck into 80B machines which is where I really found my love for them. I've got 5 at the moment in my collection and hope to gather more in the future. Looking forward to keeping tabs on this club to see what everyone gets. That Goin' Nuts above looks amazing - what an absolute gem.

James

I was really starting to miss having a gottlieb in the collection, and this past Saturday I was luck enough to remedy that.
I drove through a snow storm and got home around 2:30am with two new pins. My first em (prospector) and a new to me gottlieb, diamond lady. It’s a bit of a project but should clean up quite nicely, the vitrigraph playfield looks to have almost zero wear. Currently it rests in project row in the garage until I can get it moved to the basement.
Also Shoutout to chuckwurt for his diamond lady stream. It was a big help/influence in deciding to buy this diamond lady.

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While I'm not new to the System 80 games, I guess I'm new to the System 80 club on pinside. I just recently saw this thread.

My parents collect pins and have a Haunted House which I enjoy playing every time I visit. They have had it for over 30 years and it has been rock solid. No modifications at all. The most recent thing I had to replace was one of the transistors for a drop target bank solenoid. Otherwise it's been chugging along with no issues.

I saw that someone has done a multiball and speech mod for it. That got my thinking about my System 80 pin.

I've got a Night Moves (System 80B). I love this pin so much. The gameplay is fantastic, however there is one change I wish I could make. There's not really a point to multiball, except that it is fun. There's no jackpot or double scoring, just a music change. It never really bothered me that much until I picked up it's sister pin, Caribbean Cruise last month (System 3). CC has a jackpot during multiball which makes it just that bit more satisfying and challenging. Is there a way to modify the code on Night Moves to at least do double scoring during multiball? A jackpot would be nice, but I'm guessing if modifying the code is possible, just adding double scoring would be easier. If that's not easily doable, is there someone who would be able to do that?

Thanks and here's some photos!

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New pin owner here and Gottlieb Sys 1 lover!

Recently bought this Roller Disco (1980) from a nice gentleman in the next town over. It was love at first sight. Me and the pin that is.

She was his covid sanity project. Was in really bad shape when he got her. He took her about 75% of where I wanted her to be.

I replaced the displays (now LED), power supply (X-Pin), driver board (Ni-Wumph), CPU (Pascal), and sound board (Pascal).
Glow in the dark rubbers, replaced some bits and pieces here and there, and UV & color LEDs throughout.
Lastly, mounted a black light and disco ball topper/speaker.

I'm in heaven reliving my days as a 10-13 year old in SoCal skating backward to meet girls and playing pinball on roller skates!

Top score to date 1.4m.

Cheers to my fellow Gottlieb Sys 1 lovers.

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I am in awe of the beauty of this machine.

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I recently noticed some quirky controlled lamp behavior in my "The Games" that had me scratching my head. A casual player might not have noticed it, but at times, certain lamps would flicker when they were supposed to be on solid. Those same lamps often failed to latch ON when they were supposed to. And yet they worked perfectly in the controlled lamp test (every time). They were all associated with the same data line, LD4. I could see that someone had previously replaced the lamp control chip (7417 hex buffer IC) upstream. I went ahead and replaced the RIOT chip but no luck. Eventually I discovered that those lamps (L11, L15, L19, L39, L43, L47, and L51) only misbehaved when L7 was ON. I took a close look at the circuitry driving lamp L7 and there it was... a solder bridge shorting a flip-flop output to LD4! I think it came from the factory this way, and remained undiscovered/unsolved for 38 years!

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The black hole I've been working on has some funny behavior. Wondering if someone could send a few pics or point me in the right direction.

Machine powers up and boots just fine. Game starts, ball kicks out and upper playfield works flawless. As far as I can tell. The lower playfield is not so fortunate. The flippers are not working at all down below, and the solenoid that brings a ball back to the top keeps firing over and over every couple seconds. I can see a few wires with electrical tape on the board right next to the kicker but havent dug deep enough to see if that has anything to do with the solenoid im diagnosing.

Thoughts and or pics of underneath the lower playfield would be appreciated. Specifically around that pop bumper board right next to the kicker solenoid.