Looks like my spot light motor is shot. I’ll need to find another. Have an email to PBR. Hopefully they have some.

Confirmed. Multiple teeth missing from two wheels in the motor. Unless I find these wheels I may be SOL if I cannot find more of the motors.

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I'm looking for a guide to doing ground mods. Good pics and details for a newb.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness

Not sure how strong it would be but could you possibly find someone to 3D print you one? Could be worth a shot.

Recently got a Hollywood Heat-- my first pin
Had an issue with slingshots killing the game. Disconnecting the entire coindoor harness after booting is a valid workaround for now (I have no idea why)

Questions:
1. there's a metal bracket in the top left that isn't really connected to anything -- by the top rollovers, sitting above a rubber post. What is this, should it be jiggling around, does it serve any purpose other than fucking up the back decal when I lift the playfield?
2. The manual says the "post at the mouth of the left side outlanes can be position for liberal/conservative play." I have no idea what post it's referring to, or how anything over here could conceivably be adjusted
3. Aesthetically speaking, one of the previous owners replaced all the rubbers, but did so with clear instead of white. He also used a not-flipper rubber on the top flippers, which I immediately remedied. Seeing as I already bought white replacement rubbers, should I go back to stock white or roll with the clear?

Most pressing issue at present:
Solenoid for the right capture hole isn't firing. Tested it and it looked like it was burned out so I replaced it. Was not the issue. Went back and tested the old solenoid and I am a fool because it tested fine. Gound appears to be good-- looks like it connects to A3J4P13 on the other end. How do I... uh... test this connection?

Rubbers have been replaced, so ignore that one lol

I only have an answer about the post adjustment. If you remove the post under the slingshot cover at the top left, there should be two or three holes where the screw that holds the post can go into. By moving the post that little amount equals big changes in how the ball reacts.

I've always been a bit confused concerning liberal/conservative - for whom are they speaking? The player or the operator? Regardless - move it and see what you like best.

I think it’s from the operator’s perspective.

It refers to play time, so it's from both player and operator.

Don't forget moderate! LMC. Most games ship with stuff in M.

Sorry, still confused. Do you mean the top left of the left slingshot? There's no slingshot in the upper left
And, not having taken anything apart but just looking, I'm not seeing anything that looks like it could be moved in any meaningful fashion

edit:
oh the last page of the manual actually calls out the post that can be adjusted, cool.
Removed the plastic, removed the post.... I don't see any way this could be adjusted? The plastic is slotted there, as thought that post could shift, but I don't see any way how

Not a photo of my pin, but it's the post I've circled in blue, yeah?

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Thank you so much!

I’ve attached a picture from a Bally machine, but the Williams should be close. You can see three holes in the playfield at the top of where the slingshots are. Those holes are the post adjustment.

I should have been more clear. At the top OF the left slingshot.

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Tried to unmangle some of the kicker leaf switches in afformentioned Hollywood heat
What I managed to do was get a solenoid stuck on and a small shower of sparks

So.
Powered off, 7 HV switches ordered from PBR
And 7 standups while I'm at it

I believe that I am missing the playfield support pieces in our newly acquired Genie (widebody).

I’m planning on cutting two pieces of 1” x 1” aluminum angle down to size. Does anyone here have a better suggestion on what to substitute in its place?

Picked up a Hollywood Heat a few weeks ago. Sorted out a decent chunk of problems but still having a display issue.

The lower display will cut out after “x” amount of time being on. Works just fine on start up. Some times it was go to scrolling, but most times just completely blanks out. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Reflow all the pins that go from the display glass to the display board.

I reproduced the missing playfield support hardware in our Genie.

I used 3/4” x 3/4” aluminum angle and a piece of 3/4” hardwood as the spanner.
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For all three of you out there who own a Big House, I have some tubes available now in case yours is looking a little frosty!

https://rampomatic.com/products/gottlieb-big-house-clear-tube-25770?_pos=2&_sid=d4251d346&_ss=r

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Finally found a bad girls!! Thanks for the hookup kicksaveking !!

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OMG... phenomenal backglass!

Haha I know. And this things soundtrack is incredible.

https://matchplay.events/live/w21eb

Getting these pins out is a pita
Anyone got some advice for me?

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I bought the pin tool that slides in to press the tab down but i didnt think it worked to well. I ended up drilling a small hole in the connector where the tab is, then used a pick to push the tab down and slide the metal connector out.

Harbor Freight has this mini hook and pick set. I use the angled pic (shown on the far right side in the picture), and this depresses that slot. This tool and a needle nose pliers makes it rather easy to remove these single pins.

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Thats the pick set right there. Good ol Harbor Freight.

There are multiple tools that will work to depress the tab (I use a jewelers screwdriver) but I find the secret to any of the is to release the tension on the tab. Here's what I do:

Isolate the wire with the crimp you'll be removing and make sure you can get a good grip on it.

Push the wire back into the housing. We want to push the tab off of the ledge so it can be depressed.

While holding the wire in insert the tool to depress the tab until it stops. A good idea is to insert the tool into an empty spot so you can mark the depth so you know you're in all the way.

With the tool still in pull out the wire. It will take some force (especially on IDC style connectors) and the tool will go flying but the wire should come out now.

If you can access the tab from the back of the housing I depress the tab if I intend to reuse the crimp (usually in the wrong spot) and push the tab all the way in with a puck if I know I'm replacing it. There's no reason to fool around with crimps you'll replace. The punch crimps come out very easy. I still push in the wire to release the tension though. This is crucial.

Wow thanks for the help everyone, you guys are great!

I hate these stupid plastic button clip things. Impossible to get in and out. Any good replacements that are easier to take in and out?

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Don't they just pull out of you slip a little flathead under the cap?

Absolutely not. And once out it’s impossible to get them back in because the holes they are trying to go into are just way too small.

The only experience I had with them was big hurt and they popped in and out. I'll see if there's any on my Genesis when I get home. I'm loading girl scout cookies today PXL_20220219_180217867 (resized).jpg

I’ve only seen them on Excalibur and now big house. If I can figure out how to put them back into this ramp I’m fine, but I don’t see anyway to do that pain-free. Thanks.

Chuckwurt - Harbor Freight has a body and molding trim kit that may work. They are basically two pronged forks that slip under the cap of the buttons to then pull it up. Better than just lifting one side with a screwdriver.

This game is sooo good, I played it at an arcade and really tried buying it from them.

Did some digging on Amazon and think I found something that might work. I’ll report back once I have a chance to try them.

This thread makes it sound simple. Just push that tab in and the whole thing will pop out. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-3-fan-club-haters-need-not-apply/page/10#post-4328092

THANK YOU. had no idea it was two pieces. Haha. I was like this is the dumbest design ever. Haha. Thanks again.

I was seriously starting to doubt my memory on this

It’s funny too. Looking up these other fasteners to buy I was like, “this is so much better having two pieces like this”. Duh. Haha

will you do a gameplay video on it soon?

Planning on it Thursday! pinballnetwork on twitch, the pinball network on YouTube or FB. 7pm eastern.

I’m working through a couple of issues with a Gottlieb Genie. The machine had sat for a few years and it was obvious that it had a bad power supply board so I decided to just install a Pascal PI-4 board.

The machine does not want to boot into attract mode, and the coil lockout led on the Flippp board lites up after ten seconds.

One apparent issue is that the ‘C’ segment of Player 1 & Player 2 is locked on.

The other potential (related) issue is the start up sequence. After the five seconds delay Q under-playfield relays fire once while the T relay fires three times. Is this typical?

The display shows a message that appears to say Stuck a Switch Tilt. I have jumpered the Slam Tilt switches on the PI-4 board.
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Is it resetting the drop banks? Those 3 resets have a normally closed switch on the T relay. My guess is it's trying to reset them and failing and it tries 3 times.

Check and clean the switches on the t relay

Thanks for the reply.

The T relay appears to be gapped and functioning properly. I cleaned the contacts and there is no change.

There was no attempt by the machine to reset either drop target bank, regardless of whether the targets were all down or all up.

All fuses are good.
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After it attempts to start a game is there power at the bank resets?

I did this by simply going into coil test. All coils including both drop target banks appear to work.

Pascal boards fire the relays at bootup iirc.

Is this the all in 1 Pascal System 1 board (power, mpu and driver)? How do the connectors look, specifically A3J5 pin 19?

Looking closely at the schematic those reset coils should work regardless of the state of the Q or T relays.
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Indeed this is the All in 1 Pascal board

The connector and pin 19 look fine.

slochar the displays show that a handful coils are being tested but there is no mechanical activity whatsoever.

** edit I reworked the crimp at pin 19 among a few others and that solved the problem. So much for a visual inspection

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I’m working through a second issue with a Gottlieb Genie that has a new Pascal PI-4 board.

The issue is that the ‘C’ segment of Player 1 & Player 2 & the Status display is locked on. I have read that this is typically related to a CPU problem with a bad Z16 chip (pin 11) but this chip doesn’t appear to be present on the Pascal board.

Has anyone with a Pascal All-in-1 board had this issue?

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