I will check the connecters anyone know which connector drives the opto board?
Thanks,
Joe
Quoted from cyroute:I will check the connecters anyone know which connector drives the opto board?
Thanks,
Joe
The opto board should be on top of the playfield under the apron. There are two connectors on it. AP2 goes to the opto sensors. AP1 has the +5V power in, Ground, and strobe 5 and return 6. You'll want to check for 5V on pin 1 and put ground on pin 3. If you don't have a solid 5V there then I would expect issues.
If you haven't had that board off yet you should pull it and look for any cracked solder connections and reflow them.
The Manual for Night Moves is up on IPDB.ORG
Can someone confirm the flipper bat shafts that are used on Genesis? It just calls out the flipper assembly in the manual but not a break down of the individual parts. pbresource.com shows two different sizes and I'm not sure which one is correct:
http://www.pbresource.com/flippers/gtb-a13154.jpg
or
http://www.pbresource.com/flippers/gtb-a15531.jpg
someone had put on two different flipper bats and the games needs a flipper rebuild. Would like to order all the needed parts at once.
Robotworkshop I have a new opto board and opto's but my 5v is low coming in do you where the opto board gets its power from is it a connector on the driver board?
Thanks,
Joe
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Can someone confirm the flipper bat shafts that are used on Genesis? It just calls out the flipper assembly in the manual but not a break down of the individual parts. pbresource.com shows two different sizes and I'm not sure which one is correct:
http://www.pbresource.com/flippers/gtb-a13154.jpg
or
http://www.pbresource.com/flippers/gtb-a15531.jpg
someone had put on two different flipper bats and the games needs a flipper rebuild. Would like to order all the needed parts at once.
On my Genesis, it's this one:
GTB_Flippers_Genesis (resized).pngQuoted from pb456:On my Genesis, it's this one:[quoted image]
I'm going to order two of those new flipper bats but I'm not sure what shaft it uses. The thin shoe and shaft or the thick one? Will either work and if so which one would be better? The thin one if it is lighter?
Quoted from cyroute:Robotworkshop I have a new opto board and opto's but my 5v is low coming in do you where the opto board gets its power from is it a connector on the driver board?
Thanks,
Joe
From the manual on IPDB.ORG on page 50 it looks like that goes back to the 5V power supply on the large heat sink. Have you checked that for cracked solder connections? On system 80B games I pull that module off, resolder any questionable solder connections, pull off the bolt that connects the PCB to the case, clean that, retighten, and I replace the 500ohm pot with a precision sealed 25-turn version. I adjust on the bench then try in the game. Repin connectors as required.
20211120_231834 (resized).jpgHi all, I had a chance to see this genie and a couple of questions..
1. It’s dead (possibly a fuse), It’s minty condition, with cupped inserts, and a few hairline cracks on the backglass paint, needs new rubber and a wax, maybe other electronic/fuse holders work etc...
What is a good starting price to offer on purchasing this machine?
2., is there a playfield protector available for this game?
Edit:answered #2
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/HFEyJ2eGJk-moNhCOchm9A?categoryid=22&category=Playfield%20Protectors&name=Genie%20%7C%201979
Thank you, I’d appreciate any help
0D8C82AE-F79E-495E-8394-F6C69938D0DD (resized).jpeg6CDE1753-A6CF-438B-A621-179120AE72DA (resized).jpeg8AC20751-D0D8-4484-A438-7FFC427F3BE8 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Chosen_S:Hi all, I had a chance to see this genie and a couple of questions..
1. It’s dead (possibly a fuse), It’s minty condition, with cupped inserts, and a few hairline cracks on the backglass paint, needs new rubber and a wax, maybe other electronic/fuse holders work etc...
What is a good starting price to offer on purchasing this machine?
2., is there a playfield protector available for this game?
Edit:answered #2
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/HFEyJ2eGJk-moNhCOchm9A?categoryid=22&category=Playfield%20Protectors&name=Genie%20%7C%201979
Thank you, I’d appreciate any help
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
If you do a search in Market archives you can get a sense of what these are going for in various conditions and in different areas. There are non-working pins that have gone from $500-$1000 in the last year. See if they will take the back glass off and take some pictures of the boards. If there is battery acid damage, that will cost you $$$ to fix or replace boards
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&keywords=genie
Quoted from bigguybbr:If you do a search in Market archives you can get a sense of what these are going for in various conditions and in different areas. There are non-working pins that have gone from $500-$1000 in the last year. See if they will take the back glass off and take some pictures of the boards. If there is battery acid damage, that will cost you $$$ to fix or replace boards
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&keywords=genie
Thank you, so far no acid damage on the boards
4F653368-5015-4198-9AB0-EC0FA2EFFD2B (resized).jpegA4124224-A5F3-480E-B4AF-D7EDDFC37646 (resized).jpegQuoted from Chosen_S:Thank you, so far no acid damage on the boards
[quoted image][quoted image]
Someone with better eyes than mine would have to see if that old battery leaked at all. It does look like it is in very nice shape and didn't get a lot of plays.
I wouldn't personally put a playfield protector on an older playfield in that nice of condition. I would just keep it cleaned and waxed since it will be home use.
Quoted from bigguybbr:I wouldn't personally put a playfield protector on an older playfield in that nice of condition. I would just keep it cleaned and waxed since it will be home use.
Agreed. Clean it, wax it, enjoy it.
If you really want to protect the beautiful playfield. Remove everything topside and have a professional clearcoat it.
Quoted from Chosen_S:It’s dead
the only thing that would concern me on this machine is the spider chips ....you can't get them anymore
Quoted from the9gman:the only thing that would concern me on this machine is the spider chips ....you can't get them anymore
I have at least 20 old system 1 mpus. I share them freely with people trying to save their boards. But removing spider chips takes a special sort of technician that I lack.
Fortunately Pascal, Ni-Wumpf and Lisy are there to supply replacement boards
Quoted from the9gman:the only thing that would concern me on this machine is the spider chips ....you can't get them anymore
I would be more concerned with the power supply, ground mods, fuse clips, and at least cleaning the connector and re-pinning as needed before assuming the spider chips are toast. If it's dead I'd go right to the power board and check voltages on the transformers first.
Got my Buck Rogers running on it's original board. Now that one did end up having one bad spider chip for the display that had a stuck bit on two displays. Cheddar hooked me up with a parts board and I transplanted that spider chip for the display and got the original board running. With all the ground mods done I expect it to run for a while.
If that game has an older driver board without the protection diodes then I suppose there is a greater chance the MPU could be damaged. Once good power is confirmed troubleshooting can proceed from there.
I had one other System 1 game (Count Down) and that had an MPU issue causing the driver board to lock on the solenoid to kick out the ball. It was on the MPU but not a spider chip. It's been a while but I seem to recall it was an open pull down resistor. Replacing the resistor fixed that one.
Working on a 80A Punk. Just got a new Rottendog 80 mpu & driver board. With the new mpu does the reset board need to be plugged in, or have they worked around it with the new mpu. Thanks!
Quoted from greatwichjohn:Working on a 80A Punk. Just got a new Rottendog 80 mpu & driver board. With the new mpu does the reset board need to be plugged in, or have they worked around it with the new mpu. Thanks!
I am not sure if RD worked it out but in a home environment it makes sense to just leave it disconnected. It just resets the mpu if the displays lock on and not likely to happen and not be noticed at home
Hi everyone. I apologize as I'm fairly new to this. I have an Amazing Spider-man. Turned it on today, hit the button to start a game, kick out the ball and immediately the right flippers go up and lock in place without touching the flipper button. Left flipper works fine on it's own. The right flippers do not come down unless you shut the game off. Any suggestions?
IMG_6147 (resized).PNGQuoted from TrueJedi:Hi everyone. I apologize as I'm fairly new to this. I have an Amazing Spider-man. Turned it on today, hit the button to start a game, kick out the ball and immediately the right flippers go up and lock in place without touching the flipper button. Left flipper works fine on it's own. The right flippers do not come down unless you shut the game off. Any suggestions?
[quoted image]
So the fact they activate and drop means it's an electrical and not mechanical issue. The mpu cannot drive the flippers and can only control the game over relay which supplies power to the flippers. Either the coil to the right flippers is grounded somewhere or the flipper switch is somehow shorted or closed
Quoted from Cheddar:So the fact they activate and drop means it's an electrical and not mechanical issue. The mpu cannot drive the flippers and can only control the game over relay which supplies power to the flippers. Either the coil to the right flippers is grounded somewhere or the flipper switch is somehow shorted or closed
Thank you very much. This was exactly it. The right flipper switch was somehow staying closed. Not sure how it migrated to that as it's been working fine and nothing has been moved on the machine, but after prying i back a bit the issue is resolved.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I'm going to order two of those new flipper bats but I'm not sure what shaft it uses. The thin shoe and shaft or the thick one? Will either work and if so which one would be better? The thin one if it is lighter?
I believe the SS games all use the thick shoe and shaft. Thin won't work.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I'm going to order two of those new flipper bats but I'm not sure what shaft it uses. The thin shoe and shaft or the thick one? Will either work and if so which one would be better? The thin one if it is lighter?
Best I could tell, because I have nothing to compare it to - the thin shaft/shoe version.
Quoted from ts4z:I believe the SS games all use the thick shoe and shaft. Thin won't work.
I asked pbresource.com when I placed the order for my flipper rebuild kits and Jimmy confirmed it should be using the thick version and is sending two of those.
Have a set of cliffy ramp protectors on the way too. I think they will cover the damaged area of my original ramps. Still would like to buy the new clear ramp set when available.
I'm looking for an A1J3 harness from a system 1. This is the smaller display connector to the MPU. Anyone have one they'd sell to me? Or a System 1 head harness?
Thanks
Quoted from Cheddar:I'm looking for an A1J3 harness from a system 1. This is the smaller display connector to the MPU. Anyone have one they'd sell to me? Or a System 1 head harness?
Thanks
I just looked through my parts bin and... PM me if you still need it.
Harness (resized).jpgHarness1 (resized).jpgQuoted from gjm:I just looked through my parts bin and... PM me if you still need it.[quoted image][quoted image]
PM sent
New unusual glitch. While playing buck rogers it will randomly jump ball counts. I can't get past more than 2 balls because the game will suddenly jump to 3, 4 and then 5 for no apparent reason and the game will end while ball is still in play. Any ideas?
Quoted from Jasonw416:New unusual glitch. While playing buck rogers it will randomly jump ball counts. I can't get past more than 2 balls because the game will suddenly jump to 3, 4 and then 5 for no apparent reason and the game will end while ball is still in play. Any ideas?
I would check for a sensitive outhole switch. Take the ball out, put it switch test and bash it around a bit to see if it triggers
The plastic trim for the translite on my Genesis (system 80B) was falling apart and the lift edge on the bottom was damaged. Just received a fresh set and it holds the translite in place so much better.
I seem to have one minor issue to resolve. It seems that the new plastic lift edge on the bottom is just a little thicker than the original lift edge. Because of that it barely will go in the slot and I can’t lock it in place. Has anyone else run into this?
It looks like there are a couple options. I could slightly widen the slot so to new wider molding fits in or try to sand the back edge of the new lift channel but I’m concerned about weakening that. Seems like the best option may be to slightly widen the slot. It would still work with the original trim just not smugly.
I have a couple extra Lisy1 and Lisy80 boards. $100 each shipped w/o Pi Zero W and micro SD Card or $150 shipped with.
Added over 2 years ago:I am sold out on Lisy80s, I have several Lisy1 and the Godi180 bench displays
Quoted from Cheddar:I have a couple extra Lisy1 and Lisy80 boards. $100 each shipped w/o Pi Zero W and micro SD Card or $150 shipped with.
I would like a Lisy 80 with the Pi and SD card please.
Quoted from Blackghost4:I would like a Lisy 80 with the Pi and SD card please.
PM sent
Quoted from Mach1:Merry Christmas everyone!
[quoted image]
Ha ha very nice! Merry Christmas!
On my search for Gottlieb edge connectors. Here is a hard to find one with out the flanges (ears)!
https://www.peawo.com/Molex/09-01-6241--92734818.html
Still on the hunt for double sided ones!
Anyone have an extra A3J3 edge connecter its the 50pin black one that connects to the driver board. The one on my night move was broke when the previous owner tried to repin it with the wrong pins. PM I am willing to purchase and pay shipping.
Thanks,
Joe
Finally got around to rebuilding the flippers on my Monte Carlo using parts from PBR (coil stops, sleeves, plunger/links, return springs, EOS switches).
I noticed when a fast ball hits the flipper while fully extended, the flipper will drop ever so slightly and then re-energize. This happens on both flippers. I re-adjusted both EOS switches and confirmed they're properly opening at the end of stroke. It's not necessarily causing any issues but I don't remember this happening before the rebuild and wondered if it was normal?
Sure you have them wired properly? Mine don’t do that. When engaged do they hold strong when you try and push them down with your finger or are they easy to push down?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Sure you have them wired properly? Mine don’t do that. When engaged do they hold strong when you try and push them down with your finger or are they easy to push down?
Thanks! Appreciate the second opinion before I go pulling everything apart again.
I’ll double check the coil wiring today but I did take pictures too, so I’m pretty sure they’re wired how they were before the rebuild. When engaged they do require a bit of force to push them down. And of course if they’re pushed below a certain point the EOS closes and full power kicks in and the flipper bat kicks back up fully.
I plan to check the flipper set screws as well to make sure I have those tight enough!
Robotworkshop I'm still working on this Night Moves and still don't have the correct voltage at the connector for the opto board. I checked the schematics and I don't think the 5v goes directly from the power supply to the AJ1 connector it looks like the power goes to the MPU then may go from there but I can't seem to find which connecter from the playfield that goes to the connecter on the opto board. Not sure if you would know that. MPU, Driver Board, Power Supply and opto board and Optos are all new I think the issues is either on the playfield or in whatever connector goes from the playfield to whatever board is supplying the 5v. My A3J3 connecter is messed up and needs repinned waiting for a fellow pinsider to send me a replacement connecter to take care of that not sure if that Opto board 5v wire goes through that A3J3 connecter or not I don't think it does from what I can tell.
Quoted from cyroute:Robotworkshop I'm still working on this Night Moves and still don't have the correct voltage at the connector for the opto board. I checked the schematics and I don't think the 5v goes directly from the power supply to the AJ1 connector it looks like the power goes to the MPU then may go from there but I can't seem to find which connecter from the playfield that goes to the connecter on the opto board. Not sure if you would know that. MPU, Driver Board, Power Supply and opto board and Optos are all new I think the issues is either on the playfield or in whatever connector goes from the playfield to whatever board is supplying the 5v. My A3J3 connecter is messed up and needs repinned waiting for a fellow pinsider to send me a replacement connecter to take care of that not sure if that Opto board 5v wire goes through that A3J3 connecter or not I don't think it does from what I can tell.
I'll take a look at the schematics I have to see if I can help. I had to move to my game while a room was being painted and haven't had a chance to set it up yet. If need be I can dig it out and take a closer look at it. One way or another I'm sure you'll get your game running.
Robotworkshop did some more work on this thing not much status change other than during the solenoid test the pop bumpers do not work but the slings do work. it looks like all these items share the same 5v but still didnt find the actual souce connector my guess is it goes up through another connector and powers the opto board and then runs down through the playfield to the pop bumper boards. I'm getting the same low voltage on the pop bumper board connectors too about 1.4v
Robotworkshop OK I think I found the issue I have 5v to the display at A4P2 on the display but I think the 5v is supposed to go back out on A4J1 on the display and I don't have 5v there. Can someone verify if this is the case and what may be on the display causing the problem is this is in fact the issue. The display is working fine.
Thanks,
Joe
Quoted from cyroute:Robotworkshop OK I think I found the issue I have 5v to the display at A4P2 on the display but I think the 5v is supposed to go back out on A4J1 on the display and I don't have 5v there. Can someone verify if this is the case and what may be on the display causing the problem is this is in fact the issue. The display is working fine.
Thanks,
Joe
I don’t think the power comes off the display then to the opto board. Do you have 5v at the pop bumper boards?
On the output of the power supply A2 there are several lines all supplying 5v. Can you double check to see if it looks like any of those contacts are weak or sprung?
The online schematics aren’t that great. I need to dig out my original hard copy to see if that shows the power wiring for the opto board
no I don't have power to the pop bumper boards either, I'm pretty sure they are on the same power wire as the opto's. I went ahead this morning and repinned the power supply A2 but still no change and I have 5v at each pin on the power supply.
Cross posting from another thread.
Small bump as I am looking for a Gottlieb System 80A skinny head. The skinny heads included:
Super Orbit
Royal Flush Deluxe
Amazon Hunt
Rack Em’ Up
Jacks To Open
Alien Star
The Games
Touchdown
El Dorado: City of Gold
Ice Fever
The head can be vacated. Unfortunately we see pictures of horror pictures of pinballs that were in floods, but perhaps there may be a head / light box that can be salvaged. If anyone has any leads, please contact me. Thanks again for your help.
Quoted from cyroute:no I don't have power to the pop bumper boards either, I'm pretty sure they are on the same power wire as the opto's. I went ahead this morning and repinned the power supply A2 but still no change and I have 5v at each pin on the power supply.
I’m going to find my printed original manual after lunch to see if it shows that wiring and what color code it should be.
It seems all the wire colors I have found that should have 5v are Blue/Gray stripe. The reason I thought the display was in play because it has a Blue/Gray with 5v going in but the other Blue/Gray on the other connector on the display doesnt have 5v its low like the the opto blue/gray and the pop bumper blue/gray wires.
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