While researching my issue I found this on PiniWiki..same era some maybe worth a try.

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I'm not even sure which one we're talking about any more. You first said the volcano (eruption?) sound repeated during the game so I made and posted a video of my game during play. Did my video not help you identify if you're having an issue?

There is a lava sound that repeats during play and this is normal (this is the repeating sound that's in my video). At the end of a game, you get an eruption sound that's different than the background sound, and then it goes back to attract mode sounds.

The dip-switch 25 issue affects background sound, which I think is different than the one he was saying. The eruption sound from end of game and multi-ball is not the background sound.

Is there a source for a game IC? I am working on a corroded MPU board, and it is missing an IC labeled "C". I want to try this in Joker Poker. Thanks

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#roms

to convert to 2716

Easy to use a 2716 with this adapter:

https://www.pinitech.com/products/gottlieb_prom.php

Seeing if anybody has experience with the "Flippp all in one boards.
I put one in my Touchdown (System 80A) while Chris Hibler updates the boards.
I only get 16 games for choices and Touchdown is not one.
Yes, I emailed Pascal but no return word yet

There is a daughter board with the games on it. Sounds like you have the 80 games and you need the board with the 80A games.
https://www.flippp.fr/faq.php#F88

Thanks..missed that one. I ordered the new daughter card. Originally purchased for a Time Line.

So an update, hate reading a thread with no real answer to issue.
Changed the 2N3055 transistor (Q64) which stopped F13 fuse from blowing and now the 2 target banks reset and the captive pit kickout works. So good job guys.
This leads to a second, which I thought was part of the original issue.
After about 8:30 mins (yup I timed it) the displays go out and the playfield lights freeze where they are (on or off). This happens in both game play and attract mode.
Now turning off for about 5 mins and on again everything is good to go again.
Suspect a heat issue but from where?
I do have the manual.

I tried asking about this on the BH club, but got no response...I'm looking for a bit of information. I have a Mars God of War, and I'm wanting to convert the backbox to mount the backglass like Black Hole, Volcano, etc. I've tried looking at pictures to figure out how Gottlieb changed the design, but nothing I've found clearly shows what they did. Is it a J shaped plastic trim channel on each side of the glass, with those channels screwed into the chaser light frame?

I just need to know what parts I need and how to mount it.

Are any of you running a memory capacitor on the Gottlieb system 1 MPU boards? If so how well does it work? Debating if I should do an off board battery pack on this or try installing a memory capacitor. I have a couple 1F and 4F 5.5v caps. The larger 4F cap has wire leads so is probably going to be the easiest of all to mount and won't need a blocking diode installed.

I was just able to fix the display issue by replacing the display spider chip (Thanks Cheddar ) so the board is all done except for powering the RAM when the machine is off.

I went with the 4F capacitor for the RAM backup. Figured it would end up lasting a bit longer than the regular 1F capacitor. So far so good.

Just need to add the extra two fuses in the cabinet to protect the small transformer next.

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Just saw this on another board, and it might be the answer to the problem of the unobtainable SC-01 chip.

http://www.virtualnextpoint.it/pinball/sc01.php

It's a drop-in replacement that emulates the original... and to my ear, does a pretty good job.

The developer has already discussed it on Pinside:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sc-01-speech-synthesizer-replacement#post-6090997

Cool. I hadn't seen it come up in this thread before so I figured I'd mention it in case anyone else thought it was neat.

Anyone want play "name that glitch"? Lol I can't upload the video on here but on my buck rogers with no ball in play, if I keep hitting the flippers I gain points. I just got this matching and I am planning on doing a full meter sweep and the boards look excellent. Any ideas on this so I can focus on an area or 2?

How many points? look for things that score that many points and see if switches are gapped too tight.

Good thought. 10 points over and over. When I take the glass of for the first time this weekend I'll dig in.

The only thing I believe that scores 10 pts is the switches behind the rubbers, several of them on the playfield, make sure there is a gap. The one sling (left) does as well, but the scoring switch for it are on the base under the playfield, though it is the closest to the flipper mechs so maybe look at those. pic for reference, scoring switch circled.

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Not all four sides. Pictures are from my Volcano.

It's a J-channel on 3 sides, top, bottom, and left-hand side. The right-hand side is a U-shaped plastic piece with square dimensions that equal the thickness of the glass plus the thickness of the J-channel plastic, with screw holes all the way through. It's just a stopper to block glass from sliding.

I've had my glass out. Remove the one piece on the right and the glass slides out of the channels easily towards the right.

RH side top

RH side bottom

top

bottom

left side

Thank you for those. That definitely helps.

Found the culprit. The bands were in rough shape including 1 that was hanging off lol. Found a little piece wedged in there keeping the prongs together.

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Opened up the playfield up for the first time and there are 3 wires cut but I can't see where they are supposed to go. Wonder if this is why the red targets near this doesn't reset.

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well, you're missing the whole reset coil and brackets! just a plunger hanging there

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here is what you should have there. you can see the 3 wires attached to the coil.

PXL_20211030_220317603 (resized).jpg

Hahahaha wow what in the hell? Thanks for the pic reference. Is this something I can buy or am I screwed? I did find some spare parts underneath. I'll have to check tomorrow but hopefully it's what I need.

Hey folks, getting my butt kicked by a Raven at the moment. I've had the machine for a while, was bought as a project. Boards were a mess, so several years ago, I just bought a new Swemmer Control board and Driver board. Auxiliary Power supply is new. After some work, I had the machine playing excellent with no issues, then life happened and I was unable to do much pinball stuff for several years. Raven sat in the garage, which doesn't get very cold as it is climate controlled, but certainly subject to dirt, dust, bugs etc. About a month ago, I brought it inside, powered it up, and it worked perfectly(booted, displays came on displaying proper stuff, attract mode, sound etc etc), but then it "died" after 45 seconds or so. Displays went out, only had a few GI lights cycling, but otherwise dead. Now its being real weird. I decided to replace the power supply, as one of the +5 volt connectors (J2) had some browning (also crimped new connectors for j1 and j2). I got one of those Gulf Stream power supplys (these things have no potentiometer, so not adjustable), but the game stays in almost dead mode, even though showing 5.4 volts being generated, "dead" just like described above with this one in. So on the original power supply, I reflowed the headers, squirted some contact cleaner in the pot and put it back in. Now, if I slowly turn up the pot on the power supply, I can get the game to mostly boot up, pretty much in attract mode- all lights light and cycle, helicopter starts spinning at proper time etc etc. Still no displays, and if I hit "start" a game, it resets back to attract mode. All the "dummy lights" on the Swemmer control board and driver board light up- +5 volts, logic etc etc. Oddly, if I disconnect J2 from the power supply, I do get random digits/letters on the display. A couple times its been "fully lit", showing zeros all the way across, other times its an A and an 8- just random. But if I plug J2 back in on the power supply, I get nada. I also believe I have some sound issue- sound board is original, but led not lighting. If I hit SW 1, the led lights very dimly and I get static. If I hit SW 2, nada- no tone, no nothing. Thats a pretty good start to "describing" whats going on. I've never been excellent at boardwork, testing components/board troubleshooting, but am "decent", Ive just forgotten a ton. Definitely still learning stuff, so I'm kinda fighting lack of knowledge, but also "fuzzy/forgot" a lot that I learned a few years ago. Anyway, this beotch is kicking my butt. Seems so weird that it was working excellent and a few years in storage killed it (but after booting up first as a tease). Sorry I bounced around a lot, but was just trying to get as much described as possible. Anyway, any insight appreciated!

If you don't have the parts in your spare parts, you should be able to get from all from pbresource.com or marcospecialties.com (coil A-18318, stop A-17958, housing B-16194) as well as some screws (#8-32x1/4" socket head and #8-32x 5/16" round head or hex head machine screws, 4 of each). pbresource.com is usually cheaper but I did see marcos appears to have all the parts in stock, pbresource you would have to call or e-mail to check.

Here is a page from the parts manual for reference. the buck rogers manual tells that coil a-18318 is needed.
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Whatever you can’t get from the suppliers you can usually find on eBay. If not now they eventually will.

FlipperFanatic , thank you.

Sw 25 " on " cancelled the backround sound at the end of the game . It fades away and goes quiet.
It did change some other sounds somewhat but i can always go back if i dont like it.

Let me know if you need some parts, I believe "I might have" everything you'll need, I have a couple of large Tupperware storage boxes with parts stored in them.

I'm getting close to finishing my Spring Break restoration, and I was wondering if there is any special coin box for the 80Bs.

Mine was missing the mechs and coin box. I had some spare mechs hanging around that I installed, but I didn't see any posts on here about the coin box.

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For those missing some Plugs i redesigned them.
Here are the files for 3d Printig.

Best regrads Lucxor

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5149428

Trying to get .bin for a system 80b test rom. I PM'd MarAlb a couple of months ago, but have not heard back.

Working on Bone Busters that doesn't want to boot, power, CPU, and 2101 have been verified. Hoping the test rom will help me narrow down the issues.

I've got it. pm'd

Hey all, bought a joker poker. It had an niwumph board in it and was exhibiting coil issues. So, I bought a pascal board, fixed the playfield transistor and fired it up. Now, immediately after I start a game it tilts. No errors on startup. Tilt relay closes and opens on startup. Any ideas? Where do I find the email for the pascal board? Thanks!

did you set up the board to the game Joker poker?

here are the Manuals: https://www.flippp.fr/support.php

Yep, boots fine and completes coil test. Even displays stuck tilt if I gap the playfield tilt switch.

check this.
i think its also possible to disable the tilt.

tilt (resized).png

Thank you for helping! I did try that. It seems to me something causes the tilt immediately when the ball launches into the shooter lane. The tilt is free and clear to.

did you checkt the transistor on Q6?
you shoud also try to remove the ball and run a test on the switch test.
menu (resized).png

Quick question...I'm working on MGOW boards, and don't have the playfield in the game. Just enough connected to go from the bottom cab to the power supply, MPU, driver. I'm getting good 12V, 5V and 8V, but no 60/42V at the test points. Power supply worked great last time I used it a couple of years ago.

Should I be seeing those voltages, or does something else from the playfield or from the displays need to be connected?

Have you checked the fuses?

You know, you got me there. I had just put new fuses in the bottom board, and nothing seemed to be blowing. The 1/4A display fuse looked brand new, no sign of damage, but that was going out.

I just found that if I unplug the red chaser bulbs in the lightbox frame, then I have 60 & 42 volts. So not sure what's going on with those bulbs.

Hey Folks I have a Night Moves and everything seems to work but the game won't kickout a ball to start the game. I think the issus is in the opto board area by the ball trough. I have no light on the opto board and I checked the voltage and i'm getting 3v AC not 5V DC that I think this should be getting. I have replaced the opto's and the opto board with no change not sure where the voltage comes from and if that is what is causing the game to not start and enable the flippers etc.. I did the ground mods and im running a new swemmer mpu board. If remember at one point I did have a light on the original setup but it still wouldnt kick a ball when started a game. All the coils are working in coil test.
Thanks for any help here...
Joe

I'll have to take a look at my manual. There were opto issues on my machine. The optical sensors were fine. Was an issue on the board. The game won't start unless those are working.

Be careful with the actual opto sensors. I've seen people get them reserved. Didn't hurt anything but didn't work.

Could very well be the voltage drop is due to corroded connectors or pins. Trace them down, clean them up.

And fuse clips