(Topic ID: 203690)

Holy node board Batman, GB, Aerosmith, Star Wars - Service Bulletins

By NeilMcRae

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by fosaisu
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Post #88 The update is present in GOTG Posted by mnpinball (6 years ago)

Post #100 List & comparison of note boards in stern games Posted by fosaisu (6 years ago)


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#129 6 years ago

I am thinking of putting some rubber spacers under the screws of the PCB's (where they are attached to the playfield). The kind they use for harddisks. Question for the experts here: does that any good ?

#132 6 years ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

Why wouldn’t it be? Just trying to understand this fix. Thanks for any update.

Because GOT does not use the affected nodeboard. The affected nodeboard is partnumber 520-7017-72. Got uses partnumbers 520-6935-10 for Node 8 and 520-5329-10 for Node 9.

#133 6 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

So does this get posted in the weird hacks in pinball thread. I think it’s good that Stern is dealing with this but having to zip tie a circuit board is pretty laughable and not in a good way. The pinball business is so unique I couldn’t imagine this in any other product but it doesn’t bother me in a pin. If it happened in say a sub or some other electronics I would avoid that brand like the plague.

I think - someone correct me when I am wrong - that the failure happens because the diode body puts a bit more stress on the thinner pins that it has and therefore tends to move a lot back and forth. That is why the pins break, you know when you constantly move a piece of metal back and forth then it suddenly breaks.

By connecting it through the spacer with a sturdier component, it will not move as much anymore and the problem is solved. They could have done this much more difficult, but the point is that almost everybody that owns a pin with the affected board should be able to do this, so as it does not win the prize for good looks, it maybe the most simple way of stabilising the small pins of the diode.

1 month later
#162 6 years ago
Quoted from SamIam:

I'm still waiting for my "kit" I talked to stern tech support on Dec 6th. They were going to send it out, I don't think I'm getting it. If I could figure out what to use as a spacer, I'll use my own zip ties. So far I haven't had any problems with my machine. I would hate to have it break over a 10 cent fix.

Just use some hot glue. Much easier, safer and the end result is the same.

#177 6 years ago
Quoted from tbanthony:

Found this....
When used with care, the hot glue used by hobbyists and craftspeople is safe for electronic projects. The glue, a plastic resin which typically melts at temperatures ranging from 250 to 380 degrees Fahrenheit, is an electrical insulator, so it does not create stray conducting paths or short circuits. For best results, avoid using hot glue on thermally sensitive components or power devices that produce heat.
Passive Components
Hot glue is OK when used on rugged passive components such as resistors, coils and ceramic capacitors. Electrolytic capacitors, however, usually have a thin plastic wrapper that hot glue may melt and damage, so avoid applying the glue to these components. Metal mounting parts such as screws and brackets are usually safe for hot glue, although plastic parts may deform or melt from the glue's heat. Nonconducting parts of circuit boards consist of an epoxy resin; hot glue is safe with this material.
Power Components
Power components, including large transistors, integrated circuits and diodes, have metal bodies designed to give off heat during operation. Although hot glue won't harm these components directly, it is inappropriate for these parts. When a transistor becomes hot, it will soften or melt any glue applied to it, causing the glue to weaken and break. Also, the glue is a thermal insulator; if a glue-covered transistor cannot radiate heat away from itself, it may overheat and fail.

You are only applying the glue to the metal parts on top. What you want is just bind them together so the diode does not viibrate anymore what causes metal fatigue in the legs of the diode because they are too thin. No risk doing the glue, more risk doing the Stern way. I tried and I stopped because you cannot do the tiewraps without bending the legs. Hot glue is much faster, more easy and also more safe for the components.

#182 6 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

Could you provide us with a pic of what you've done?

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#208 6 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I tried glue and had a hard time getting it to stick. Hopefully you have better luck

Maybe it depends on the glue you used ? For me it was about 15 seconds per board. They sell different kind of sticks so maybe that is something to look into.

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