Holy node board Batman, GB, Aerosmith, Star Wars - Service Bulletins


By NeilMcRae

1 month ago


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  • 238 posts
  • 101 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Nightmare
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There are 238 posts in topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
#201 11 days ago

Why not put some rubber grommets in the node board and screw it back on the playfield.
Or put some L shape brackets under the playfield to screw the node on.

#202 11 days ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I used clear RTV on the transistors. Thanks for the advice. I didn’t like stressing the components to use a zip tie and spacer. Much easier as I didn’t have to pull the boards. Now all I have to do is get the capacitor kits

Isn't the RTV flexible? Isn't that what we dont want?

#203 11 days ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Isn't the RTV flexible? Isn't that what we dont want?

Hot glue is flexible too. A little bit of flex is fine, it should still support the diode miles better than nothing.

#204 11 days ago

I was able to install the spacer kit without much trouble on SW. I was worried about unplugging all the connectors, so I just unplugged a couple on each node board and installed the spacer while it was on the game. Really didn't stress the diode or transistors much and it worked after I did it

The cap kit was super easy to install, but you do need two caps per game. Apparently the first kits were put together with only one, the newer kits should have two caps in each kit according to Chas. I have a couple more kits being sent to me.

I'll be doing GB and AS tomorrow evening when the missing cap kits get here.

#205 11 days ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Isn't the RTV flexible? Isn't that what we dont want?

It still dampens the vibrations considerably. Extremely common in motor controllers and other high vibration electronics.

One important thing though is make sure to buy the right one. Electronics silicone may not be the same as what you buy in a home improvement store.
Look for the stuff that says "Aquarium Safe", or "Corrosion Free", "Neutral Cure", "Non-Acidic" or something like that. The really cheap stuff could cause long-term issues. If it smells super strong out of the tube, that's the wrong stuff.

-Hans

#206 11 days ago

I bought a hot glue gun today. Looked like the best approach.

#207 11 days ago

I tried glue and had a hard time getting it to stick. Hopefully you have better luck

#208 11 days ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I tried glue and had a hard time getting it to stick. Hopefully you have better luck

Maybe it depends on the glue you used ? For me it was about 15 seconds per board. They sell different kind of sticks so maybe that is something to look into.

#209 11 days ago

Yeah I put some glue and backed up a small zip tie. The RTV was not the recommended type so I removed it

#210 11 days ago

Got the kits. Putting the zip ties on would have been a disaster. I'm sure I would have ruined it in the process.

Hot glue worked perfectly. I highly reccomend.

Capacitor was plug and play, as described.

I'll do the other board tomorrow night.

#211 10 days ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Still a bitch but here is one installed

How do the bliue pins stay locked into the holes?

#212 10 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

How do the bliue pins stay locked into the holes?

Pressure....... if they are a tad loose put a drop of CA on the tip of the pin. Mine were tight enough.

#213 10 days ago

I installed the Stern zip tie spacer kits this weekend. I didn't have any problem installing it with the boards still in the machine. I did it with my playfield fully raised against the backbox so I needed a step stool to work on the node board closest to the outhole.

Just follow the instructions and be careful fishing the zip tie through the part holes and it works just fine. Once instally the parts are very secure. Not sure why some feel the need to do it differently?

#214 10 days ago
Quoted from docquest:

Not sure why some feel the need to do it differently?

Because using hot glue or proper RTV is a superior method. Stern's method is meant to be cheap, easy and fast so anybody can do it, but it does stress the legs when tied together. Maybe not a huge deal, but RTV won't lock the components down while the legs are stressed.

#215 10 days ago
Quoted from docquest:

Not sure why some feel the need to do it differently?

All of the tabs were slanted on mine. No way was I going to try and zip tie those things. The risk of breaking something was to great.

Hot glue put zero stress on the components, and that diode is question is bending nowhere now.

#216 10 days ago

Got my kit today.

EEC74348-FD9F-4551-B3E8-228C877C1D9F (resized).jpeg

#217 10 days ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Stern's method is meant to be cheap, easy and fast so anybody can do it, but it does stress the legs when tied together.

Maybe I'm missing something. How does does tieing them together with the zip tie put stress on the legs?

Once zip tied the two pieces feel very secure to one another. Seems unlikey they would move and cause stress on the legs?

If the the legs did fail on that part in the future I would ask Stern to replace it since it was a known documented issue they had. Would Stern still replace it in the future if I put a bunch of hot glue or RTV on it?

#218 10 days ago
Quoted from docquest:

Maybe I'm missing something. How does does tieing them together with the zip tie put stress on the legs?
Once zip tied the two pieces feel very secure to one another. Seems unlikey they would move and cause stress on the legs?
If the the legs did fail on that part in the future I would ask Stern to replace it since it was a known documented issue they had. Would Stern still replace it in the future if I put a bunch of hot glue or RTV on it?

Trust me ...... they are not going to replace it down the road either way once out if warranty

#219 10 days ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Because using hot glue or proper RTV is a superior method. Stern's method is meant to be cheap, easy and fast so anybody can do it, but it does stress the legs when tied together. Maybe not a huge deal, but RTV won't lock the components down while the legs are stressed.

Won't the glue or silicone make the components a pita to replace should one fail?
Those transistors are one of the few things possible to change, and maybe that's why Stern is using the ties and spacer.
I think I would prefer to have them secured with the recommended fix.

#220 10 days ago
Quoted from DNO:

Won't the glue or silicone make the components a pita to replace should one fail?
Those transistors are one of the few things possible to change, and maybe that's why Stern is using the ties and spacer.
I think I would prefer to have them secured with the recommended fix.

No, the glue or RTV can be easily removed if needed.

I'm not saying either method is wrong, of course if you want to use the official Stern method that is fine especially if you're concerned about warranty issues later down the road. Personally I would rather use hot glue or RTV to secure the diode to the adjacent component.

#221 10 days ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Personally I would rather use hot glue or RTV to secure the diode to the adjacent component.

Fair enough, I thought the method was to goop stuff to the board and kind of encase the components in it.
just connecting the tabs would make more sense.
Any concerns about heat?

#222 10 days ago
Quoted from DNO:

Fair enough, I thought the method was to goop stuff to the board and kind of encase the components in it.
just connecting the tabs would make more sense.
Any concerns about heat?

Nope

#223 10 days ago
Quoted from DNO:

Won't the glue or silicone make the components a pita to replace should one fail?
Those transistors are one of the few things possible to change, and maybe that's why Stern is using the ties and spacer.
I think I would prefer to have them secured with the recommended fix.

The primary concern is to stop them failing in the first place. With no fuses, and no documentation of any of these boards, damage to other components is quite likely, and being able to repair the board very unlikely.

#224 10 days ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

The primary concern is to stop them failing in the first place. With no fuses, and no documentation of any of these boards, damage to other components is quite likely, and being able to repair the board very unlikely.

My GB had a board drop the 2 flipper transistors early on, I was able to replace them and have the game work while waiting on a replacement from Stern.

#225 10 days ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Trust me ...... they are not going to replace it down the road either way once out if warranty

Why should we trust you when in many cases Stern does replace components outside the brief written warranty period? Not to mention replacing parts that are expressly excluded from the written warranty (playfields, for example)? There's no guarantee of a replacement outside of warranty, of course, but there are tons of stories on Pinside about Stern providing precisely this kind of support.

#226 10 days ago

It’s called 20 plus years collecting games and being in the industry

Do what ya want. I know what I’m doing

You’ll be able to wipe your ass with that documentation.

#227 10 days ago

For people with more than one machine they requested parts for; did you receive all the kits at the same time? I have a Ghostbusters and Aerosmith, but only one kit arrived today.

#228 10 days ago

Finished 2nd Node board tonight on GB. Hot glue and added the capacitor. No issues. Game is running great!

#229 7 days ago

Finished installing the kits on my Ghostbusters Premium and Star Wars LE. It was a bit of a pain to install the zip tie and spacer fix. My Star Wars LE thankfully had the capicator fix already installed from the factory.

#230 7 days ago

Installed my capacitor kit as well and used industrial hot glue on the diodes. Feel better about the protection. Time to drop some balls!

#231 7 days ago

I got the kits yesterday for my SW and my dad's AS.

#232 6 days ago

Working on my GB and AS capacitor kit at the moment and the GB made sense as the were no existing capacitor installed.

Opened up my AS which I bought in June, and it appears to have a capacitor already installed at cn6 on both boards. Should I assume it came from factory already repaired or am I plugging the new capacitor into board and then plugging old capacitor into make end of the new one?

Thanks for help!

#233 6 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Working on my GB and AS capacitor kit at the moment and the GB made sense as the were no existing capacitor installed.
Opened up my AS which I bought in June, and it appears to have a capacitor already installed at cn6 on both boards. Should I assume it came from factory already repaired or am I plugging the new capacitor into board and then plugging old capacitor into make end of the new one?
Thanks for help!

Your Aerosmith has the fix already installed.

#234 6 days ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Your Aerosmith has the fix already installed.

Didn’t have the spacers though and what a bitch. Don’t know if it’s worth the hassle or not.

#235 6 days ago

I went to install the spacers and zip ties on my SW. I felt there was way too much torque when trying to tie the zip tie with the tight loop you needed to make. I decided to use hot glue to fuse the 2 diodes together. Seems very stable. If you got the zip ties to work without damaging the legs of the diode, good for you, but I hope hot glue gives this proper stability because I was too worried about causing the damage I was trying to prevent.

#236 6 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Didn’t have the spacers though and what a bitch. Don’t know if it’s worth the hassle or not.

I meant it already has the capacitor fix.

It’s annoying to get the spacers on, but I definitely recommend it.

#237 1 day ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Working on my GB and AS capacitor kit at the moment and the GB made sense as the were no existing capacitor installed.
Opened up my AS which I bought in June, and it appears to have a capacitor already installed at cn6 on both boards. Should I assume it came from factory already repaired or am I plugging the new capacitor into board and then plugging old capacitor into make end of the new one?
Thanks for help!

I have just noticed on our SW that there are capacitors fitted at CN6 already, however the capacitor is connected to nothing. According to the pin diagram in the manual, pin 3 and 4 are listed as N/C (this means no connection). The capacitor service kit has the capacitor connected to different pins. I am putting the capacitor kit in. I have emailed Stern to make sure. I will post when I get a response.

#238 1 day ago

Just curious, has anyone posted a video on how to do this? I know Stern posted instructions but prefer to see it done in action.

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