Creature from the Black Lagoon
Bally, 1992Quoted from pinballsp:
Having extra connectors with 12v or 5v is not the problem. I can make board similar to that, and offer them as an extra with the kit, for a few euros. But that is not going to solve the main problem, which is where to connect the external power supply, so that it is easy, fast and without having to make modifications to the main pinball junction box.
Where is your external power supply connected, can you post an image ?
20190726_192052 (resized).jpg
I found the junction box of a WPC that I had. I have disassembled it, and the modification can only be done from the inside to connect the Service Plug AFTER the Power Switch. So we can connect an external 12v power supply, to the Service Plug, so that it turns on and off at the same time as the pinball.
There is also the AC voltage in a pair of wires in an external connector, but I would not try to connect there, better modify the internal wiring, as indicated in the attached photos.
Modification is not difficult, but that is relative, some people may find it very simple, and others very difficult. In any case, I cannot find a plug and play solution, to be able to connect an external power supply, without modifying the wiring of the Service Plug.
I have already hired the 3D monster modeling, the cost is acceptable.
However, the current video of the monster, with some improvements that we are going to make, I will also include it in the kit. Then everyone can decide which video prefer to use, the one based on the movie, or the 3D modeling. Both will be offered, with and without the UFO
Now I am waiting for the designer to send me the KISS video and I show it.
There is a second background video, in addition to the cube video (which is improving a lot). The idea for the second video, is underwater, bubbles that rise as they go up, several of them show images and scenes from the movie. It will have a lively background with fish and maybe some diver.
Quoted from pinballsp:
I found the junction box of a WPC that I had. I have disassembled it, and the modification can only be done from the inside to connect the Service Plug AFTER the Power Switch. So we can connect an external 12v power supply, to the Service Plug, so that it turns on and off at the same time as the pinball.
There is also the AC voltage in a pair of wires in an external connector, but I would not try to connect there, better modify the internal wiring, as indicated in the attached photos.
Modification is not difficult, but that is relative, some people may find it very simple, and others very difficult. In any case, I cannot find a plug and play solution, to be able to connect an external power supply, without modifying the wiring of the Service Plug.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The line filter assembly you have is for WPC machines built from the late 1994 onwards (Demo Man was the first to use it - the only DCS machine to have it; all WPC-S and WPC-95 use it). CFTBL was built in 1992 and doesn't have the 12pin voltage jumper for setting power that you are looking at. Instead it has the H-14790 AC Cable which goes directly from the line filter and plugs into transformer with a 9pin plug. The 9pin plug has jumper wires added to set the specific country's power voltage as shown by vulcan903
The schematic for power shows the various pins jumpered for the different power voltages.
Quoted from pinballsp:
As I said you can use your own 12v power supply, instead of the unregulated 12v supplied by the pinball. On the HolomodSP main board, there is currently a 2-pin connector to connect the 12v power supply, and a round jack to supply that voltage to the display. I can exchange them so that the round jack is the input 12v power, and use a 2-pin connector to supply voltage to the screen.
The only problem you have to solve is where to connect the AC input of your power supply.
I must have missed that, thanks. I look forward to seeing how you solve the AC connection problem.
Looking very good so far!
Quoted from Brijam:I must have missed that, thanks. I look forward to seeing how you solve the AC connection problem.
Looking very good so far!
The only solution I see, for those who want to use an external power supply, is to modify the wiring of the service plug, to connect it after the power switch.
I think, these pictures attached are from the junction box of the WPC89. Essentially it is the same, for the matter we are dealing with, we must do the same as I indicated, cut or desolder the cables of the service plug and connect it after the power switch, so that the external power supply is turned on and off to the same time as the pinball.
Adding an external power supply is quite easy, and do it to all my games to insure headroom for the mods. I may have missed power requirements here (12v DC only?) but can post model # of Meanwell unit and method I use.
Very exciting to see this come together!!
Quoted from MK6PIN:Adding an external power supply is quite easy, and do it to all my games to insure headroom for the mods. I may have missed power requirements here (12v DC only?) but can post model # of Meanwell unit and method I use.
Very exciting to see this come together!!
Where do you connect your external power supply, can you show any image?
The problem is not the power supply, but where to connect it to turn it on and off with the pinball power switch.
Quoted from pinballsp:
Where do you connect your external power supply, can you show any image?
The problem is not the power supply, but where to connect it to turn it on and off with the pinball power switch.
Post switched power box. I tap the 110v output driving the transformer w a basic molex harness which provides power only when game is turned on.
Very clean. I'm away from my pins now but can shoot an example when I get back Monday. Not plug and play, but electrical 101.
Quoted from MK6PIN:Post switched power box. I tap the 110v output driving the transformer w a basic molex harness which provides power only when game is turned on.
Very clean. I'm away from my pins now but can shoot an example when I get back Monday. Not plug and play, but electrical 101.
I have here a transformer of a WPC, and looking at the schemes I think I know what you mean. Use the secondary 100v to connect the external power supply.
This 100V output is used for the DMD controller, with plasma screens. If I find the 2-pin connector that the transformer uses, I could make a cable that duplicates that output to connect the external power supply. It could also be connected with quick splicers, or screw connectors.
In the first versions I made of the DMDST32 with AC transformer, the external power supply was connected with a cable and quick splicers at 100V AC in the DMD controller, it could be done the same in this case.
I can provide, as an optional extra, an external 12v 3A power supply, with 2 quick splicers, it would practically be plug and play. I would give detailed instructions, with images, of where to connect the input of the external power supply, with the 2 quick splicers, it is quite simple.
Can you show a picture of your installation?
trans_wpc_004.jpgtrans_wpc_003.jpgtrans_wpc_001.jpg
WPC_002.jpgWPC_001.jpgWPC_000.jpg
Quoted from pinballsp:I can provide, as an optional extra, an external 12v 3A power supply, with 2 quick splicers, it would practically be plug and play. I would give detailed instructions, with images, of where to connect the input of the external power supply, with the 2 quick splicers, it is quite simple.
I'd be happy with a solution like that.
Quoted from pinballsp:
I have here a transformer of a WPC, and looking at the schemes I think I know what you mean. Use the secondary 100v to connect the external power supply.
This 100V output is used for the DMD controller, with plasma screens. If I find the 2-pin connector that the transformer uses, I could make a cable that duplicates that output to connect the external power supply. It could also be connected with quick splicers, or screw connectors.
In the first versions I made of the DMDST32 with AC transformer, the external power supply was connected with a cable and quick splicers at 100V AC in the DMD controller, it could be done the same in this case.
I can provide, as an optional extra, an external 12v 3A power supply, with 2 quick splicers, it would practically be plug and play. I would give detailed instructions, with images, of where to connect the input of the external power supply, with the 2 quick splicers, it is quite simple.
Can you show a picture of your installation?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Does your assembly run on 12vdc? No need to go up to the board or secondary winding for 100v, as the primary coming into the transformer (white and black) are 120v switched from the main power feed of box. I just grab it there, and use a molex "y" to provide my power to the Meanwell switching p/s (which takes standard 120 or 220v), giving plenty of both 12 and 5vdc to power the mods. I hate wall warts, and I've seen several approaches like this.
Not at the games now, but can shoot a pic that provides concept in a day or so.
The switching power supply then feeds a standard (9x) molex plugin splitter (Terry sells them, used to be DK). Now all the goodies are powered safely and no draw on the main game.
Seen many approaches. This is very reliable, and have done to virtually every one of my games. Creech sucks quite a bit of juice as is..if you add colordmd, any lighting mods, etc. having the extra amperage is very handy.
Getting anxious to finally see your kit in action (looks like it's close). Hoping lots of graphics included, as my background is definitely not in that field....mark
Quoted from pinballsp:
The only solution I see, for those who want to use an external power supply, is to modify the wiring of the service plug, to connect it after the power switch.
I think, these pictures attached are from the junction box of the WPC89. Essentially it is the same, for the matter we are dealing with, we must do the same as I indicated, cut or desolder the cables of the service plug and connect it after the power switch, so that the external power supply is turned on and off to the same time as the pinball.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Or...................
You can use the aux power plug to supply your auxiliary power supply and then use Remote Control Outlet Switches to provide power to your games so you don't have to worry about anything "constantly having power"
Super simple.
1. Get these Remote Control Outlet Wireless Light Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_1
2. Then use a power strip from HF to connect 1 to 9 games to the powered down outlet, from step 1 above, with the power to the outlet turned off:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_1
Plug all your games into that power strip.
Then, when you want to play, push one button on the remote control to provide power to the outlet, which now all your games will have power provided, and then you can turn one game on at a time. And the hologram mod will have maybe 3-5 seconds of power before you power up CFTBL.
3. External power supply you can use for this or ColorDMD or PinSound (I know, I use these for both CDMD and PS):
https://www.amazon.com/BLEE-Switching-Supply-Arcade-Machines/dp/B01M99A2RM/ref=sr_1_5
4. And then use a heavy duty 120V cord to connect the external power supply to the auxiliary outlet:
https://www.amazon.com/Pinfox-Replacement-Pigtail-Universal-Appliance/dp/B07RQNZJB7/ref=sr_1_5
Done : ).
Now, the wiring part we will need to wait on, but this is easily replicated for ColorDMD and PinSound (both on my BSD), and I never have to worry about resets or lack of power.
Final setup looks something like this:
And then the wire setup for PinSound:
First picture is the molex connector I made to go directly to the PinSound board in BSD:
pasted_image_3 (resized).png
And this picture is the wiring back to the external power supply:
pasted_image_2 (resized).png
For ColorDMD, the grey wire on the ColorDMD's wiring harness is 5V and the black wire is ground. Those wires go to the exact same identical points as the wiring for PinSound in the previous picture. ** - NOTE, this is for the newer Chroma board controller board ColorDMDs (if you've bought a ColorDMD within the last 2 to 3 years, your ColorDMD has this controller). - **
I can answer questions on this setup if anyone needs further details.
Quoted from NPO:Or...................
You can use the aux power plug to supply your auxiliary power supply and then use Remote Control Outlet Switches to provide power to your games so you don't have to worry about anything "constantly having power"
Super simple.
1. Get these Remote Control Outlet Wireless Light Switches:
amazon.com link »
2. Then use a power strip from HF to connect 1 to 9 games to the powered down outlet, from step 1 above, with the power to the outlet turned off:
amazon.com link »
Plug all your games into that power strip.
Then, when you want to play, push one button on the remote control to provide power to the outlet, which now all your games will have power provided, and then you can turn one game on at a time. And the hologram mod will have maybe 3-5 seconds of power before you power up CFTBL.
3. External power supply you can use for this or ColorDMD or PinSound (I know, I use these for both CDMD and PS):
amazon.com link »
4. And then use a heavy duty 120V cord to connect the external power supply to the auxiliary outlet:
amazon.com link »
Done : ).
Now, the wiring part we will need to wait on, but this is easily replicated for ColorDMD and PinSound (both on my BSD), and I never have to worry about resets or lack of power.
Final setup looks something like this:
[quoted image]
And then the wire setup for PinSound:
First picture is the molex connector I made to go directly to the PinSound board in BSD:
[quoted image]
And this picture is the wiring back to the external power supply:
[quoted image]
For ColorDMD, the grey wire on the ColorDMD's wiring harness is 5V and the black wire is ground. Those wires go to the exact same identical points as the wiring for PinSound in the previous picture. ** - NOTE, this is for the newer Chroma board controller board ColorDMDs (if you've bought a ColorDMD within the last 2 to 3 years, your ColorDMD has this controller). - **
I can answer questions on this setup if anyone needs further details.
Interesting approach. Not for me, as many times I actually use the aux power for my soldering iron, as I work on the games with them powered off. Kinda cool though.....
Many proven ways to go about powering this mod...anxious to potentially have one to play with. There is a part of me, however, that would be way ok w a sealed NOS original green hologram. Mine still is quite green and looks great....something about the nostalgia of this one (hologram wise)...just me, I suppose
I used one of those HAPP power supplies in the past work great! These are great also and very small
MEAN WELL RD-65A Dual Output Enclosed Power Supply 5V 8 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T7EZM8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_lWqpDb8W6VH3F
Quoted from Soulrider911:I used one of those HAPP power supplies in the past work great! These are great also and very small
MEAN WELL RD-65A Dual Output Enclosed Power Supply 5V 8 Amp amazon.com link »
Bingo!!..I use the RD-125A's for a bit more horsepower on the 12v side...
Quoted from MK6PIN:Interesting approach. Not for me, as many times I actually use the aux power for my soldering iron, as I work on the games with them powered off.
Anyone who works on a game with it powered on, particularly doing board work is:
1. New and doesnt know any better
2. A masochist
3. Clueless as to what damage they can cause
I use a different powered wall out for my Hakko iron.
Like you said, my approach isnt for everyone, but for those who dont want to play in that power box near the coin door, it is an easy way to get around it : ).
Quoted from Soulrider911:I used one of those HAPP power supplies in the past work great! These are great also and very small
MEAN WELL RD-65A Dual Output Enclosed Power Supply 5V 8 Amp amazon.com link »
Where do you tap into the 110 AC power at (after the switch)?
Quoted from T2F14:Where do you tap into the 110 AC power at (after the switch)?
2 lines (white and black) heading out of the power box to the transformer (primary)
On the installation of an external power supply, rather than where to take the AC voltage for the external power supply, the problem is how to do it so that it is easy and fast. Not everyone knows, wants or can make a connection to the AC voltage, having to cut and splice cables.
I see three options as to where to take AC voltage:
1.- Modify the wiring of the service plug so that it is connected after the power switch.
2.- Take AC voltage at the outlet of the junction box.
3.- Take AC voltage, in the secondary of the 100v of the transformer
And now, how to do it, for each of the above options.
1.- I already indicated how to modify the wiring of the service plug of the junction box, it is quite simple. Twist splicer, wago splicers (or chinese version) or screw connection blocks, can be used
2.- This is a dangerous option if it is not done well, because it involves cutting the AC cables through which all the current consumed by the pinball circulates. You can also use twist splicer, wago type splicers or connecting blocks, but you have to be very careful because a poorly made splice can produce a spark and that could result in a fire. I do not suggest this type of installation, unless you are very sure of what you are doing and use very good quality materials to make the splices.
3.- This is the simplest, most comfortable and safe option. As I indicated, it is done on the power connector of the DMD controller board, and for this you can use quick splicers. I have given, for a long time, this type of quick splicers to install the first versions of the DMDST32 with external power supply, and they have always worked very well. In addition the installation was very easy, fast and safe, without having to cut any cables, and all accessible in the pinball head.
4.- External plugs with remote control. They do not need any kind of installation, the external power supply is connected to the pinball service plug, and everything is turned on and off with the remote control.
In the attached photos, torsion splicers, connection blocks, wago splicers (or chinese version), quick splicers and external plugs with remote control. I can provide all three types of splicers with the kit, and also a 12v 3A power supply, but let those who opt for a type 1 or 2 installation know that they will have to cut and splice cables, either in the junction box, or in the outlet cable from the junction box.
tetcopy-wyw.jpgmaxresdefault.jpgSoedinenie-provodov-1.jpeg
50pcs-221-413-Original-WAGO-connector-led-connector-COMPACT-Splicing-Connectors-3-conductor-connector-Original-wago.jpg28382d02a8bd15ce6daf919ab363.jpg64220891_2ae671ed-00d6-4784-a49f-c50455515143_676_676.jpg
Enchufes_con_mando_a_distancia_RCS_Kit.jpg
I use the service outlet on a few games to power my DIY stadium style lighting. I turn those games off/on with powerstrips, so anything plugged into the service outlet turns on/off with the games.
One more video for the Creature Hologram kit.
Displayed when KISS is triggered, one video per letter, one video per letter. The animation is the same, but in each one a different letter of the word KISS stands out.
There are some things to improve, but the main idea is the one shown in the video. Mainly I want to add an output effect of the video, something of a disintegration or other special effect, and that the active letter stand out more, with some light effect, I have already informed the designer.
As soon as I have the final video version of the monster, and one more background video, in addition to the improved cube video, I can already show the product working, and I can offer it. I don't think there's much left.
The rest of videos and fimware updates to add features or correct bugs, I will upload them to the Github of the project, so that product users can update it.
We continue working with several videos.
In this of the attached image, we are trying to improve the monster video, with several modifications.
1.- The monster moves up, so that it is more centered. The brightness and color saturation has been modified.
2.- The vegetation is darkened and some more trees will be added in the left zone, which is now somewhat empty.
3.- It increases something else, the brightness of the water, to create a better contrast.
4.- A light bulb effect will be added, pointing at the monster, as seen in the movie they make from the ship when locating the monster. I have seen the effect and liked it a lot, because it creates a greater depth to the scene.
5.- We will add a blinking text, which will put "Creature found ...", more or less at the level of the monster's chest. This blinking text will appear every 3 or 4 seconds.
The video of the KISS will be improved, with several other effects. Work is also being done on a second background video, and the video of the cube with a background of fish and bubbles is being improved, as well as improvements to the cube.
More drawings have been vectorized to add to the videos, and the monster has begun to be modeled in 3D.
ScreenHunter_004.jpgThis looks like an awesome mod, been waiting for this one! The video and intergration will look a whole lot better than my poor old blue faded creech. This will take the game to the next level. Please add me to your list for one these.
Quoted from rodneypapish:This looks like an awesome mod, been waiting for this one! The video and intergration will look a whole lot better than my poor old blue faded creech. This will take the game to the next level. Please add me to your list for one these.
Hey Rod - there's no list at this stage but the OP is getting very, very close to release. Can't wait to see it in action
This is looking pretty awesome now, wow! It's the MikeD mod x 100!
One thing I really really want to point out is that the Creature did NOT HAVE RED LIPS in the film! Those were only added in a handful of promotional snapshots, and the red was added to make the colors pop better. The Creature Does Not Have Red Lips!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:The Creature Does Not Have Red Lips!
He did when he appeared in those ads for CoverGirl and Maybelline products.
Here is the mounting of the bracket with the TFT display and the HDMI video controller for the HolomodSP Kit. Although all these pictures and the instructions will be included in a User Manual that will detail the entire installation and configuration process, I am advancing the instructions for mounting the bracket with the screen.
The whole assembly, as seen in the images, is very compact, robust, lightweight and easy to assemble and install in the pinball.
While the graphic designer is still working with the videos, I finish some tests with electronics, programming and installation. There is not much left, to be able to offer the complete Kit, with the 5 or maybe 6 first videos, the rest of the videos (22 in total) and the firmware updates can be downloaded from the Github of the project, free of charge.
1.- All the components of the assembly, black acrylic bracket, 10.1 inch TFT screen, HDMI controller, screws, spacers or nuts and round velcros for fixing the screen to the bracket.
2.- Detail of screws, spacers and velcro.
3, 4, 5.- The acrylic bracket has a protective film to prevent scratching, remove it as shown in these pictures.
6, 7.- Pass the 4 screws through the holes of the bracket and fix them on the other side with the spacers or nuts included in the kit.
8, 9.- On the other side of the bracket fix the HDMI video controller board, with 4 screws screwed to the spacers. The Kit could include nuts instead of spacers.
10.- Appearance of the bracket and the TFT display, with the HDMI video controller already fixed to the bracket.
11, 12, 13.- The kit includes 4 pairs of velcro to fix the screen to the bracket. Join each pair of velcro and separate the film from one side of each pair, to fix them to the screen. Velcro already have the necessary adhesive on each side, you just have to remove the protective film.
14.- We set the 4 pairs of velcro, as seen in the image. We lift the protective film on each of the 4 velcro, to fix the screen to the bracket.
15, 16.- The bracket has holes, on each side, which mark the center of the bracket. These holes will be a reference to place the screen as centered as possible. However, when fixed with velcro, we can always remove the screen to be able to center it better, if necessary.
17.- Our screen bracket assembly is already completely assembled and ready to be fixed to the pinball under the playfield, using 5 of the 6 screws that we will obtain when uninstalling the original hologram support (keep those screws to fix our bracket)
18, 19.- Screen-bracket assembly, on the underside. The two cables, included in the kit, HDMI cable for video signal, and power cable are observed. In addition, the kit includes plastic flanges to fix the cables to the bracket (there are a few holes for that purpose), as well as to fix the wiring under the playfield to other cables of the pinball, to achieve a clean and reliable installation. The installation pictures in the pinball, I will provide later, and in the User Manual.
soporte_001.jpgsoporte_002.jpgsoporte_003.jpg
soporte_004.jpgsoporte_005.jpgsoporte_006.jpgsoporte_007.jpgsoporte_008.jpgsoporte_009.jpgsoporte_010.jpgsoporte_011.jpgsoporte_012.jpgsoporte_013.jpgsoporte_014.jpgsoporte_015.jpgsoporte_016.jpgsoporte_017.jpgsoporte_018.jpgsoporte_019.jpg
A couple of videos
1.- The first with two variations of the KISS video, to which sound has also been added (for use in a future firmware update).
2.- The second is just an idea, still to be developed, for a second background video. To this we still have to make enough changes, the mask has not even been applied yet, but the idea is as shown. However, I have already told the designer what has to change; add a video of real oxygen bubbles of divers, change the background of fish for a more realistic one, make the animated bubbles increase in size coming out from below small and increase in size while they go up and shows the photos and videos inside.
Quoted from swillie:Maybe when you spell KISS he can pop up with the red lips
LOL!!
Quoted from littlecammi:He did when he appeared in those ads for CoverGirl and Maybelline products.
Haha I will ask him next time I see him
3D5314EC-62C6-4385-B8F1-AB04C9FB2FDF (resized).jpeg
One more video variant of the KISS (the third, and I think the last one), with some more special effects.
I am waiting for the final versions of the two background videos, the one of the cube and the one of the bubbles, with many improvements with respect to the initial versions. Also waiting for the final version of the Creature in the Lake video, with many improvements.
As soon as I receive those three videos, I can try the whole kit and I can offer it. I will deliver the first version with these 6 videos:
1.- Startup with company logo and game logo
2.- Video, boot checks
3.- Video background Cube
4.- Video background Bubbles
5.- Video Creature in the Lagoon
6.- KISS video
The rest, up to a total of 22 videos, will be uploaded to MEGA, with links in the Github and Gitlab of the project, for download, as well as the firmware.
https://gitlab.com/pinballsp/Creature-HOLO-ModSP
https://github.com/pinballsp/Creature-HOLO-ModSP
I really doubt the cube and smaller bubble videos will be visible to the player. Consider making all the animations full screen.
Great progress so far!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Haha I will ask him next time I see him
Great seeing you two at the show!
This is almost the final version of the monster video for the hologram kit.
There are still some details that I do not like and I have told the designer to correct them.
1.- The text of "Creature Found ...", I want something smaller, a little more up, straight instead of curved and that blinks more slowly, so that the two words flash at the same time, a flicker rate 2 times per second for 3 seconds, stop for another 2 or 3 seconds and start again.
2.- The sound although it is not going to be used in the first firmware versions, I don't like it. It is not synchronized and is not the original or mixed with another.
3.- The light bulb on the monster is too narrow, that leaves the monster too dark at the top and bottom. Make that light bulb open more up and down.
4.- The background vegetation, on the left side is missing some more trees, and increase the contrast somewhat so that the leaves are more visible.
And with these changes, this video will also be finished. Right now these videos are finished:
.- Starter video, showing the company logo.
.- Video of the system check
.- KISS video.
It is still to finish this video of the monster, which is almost finished. As for the two background videos, the one of the cube and the one of the bubbles, the designer is working on them, I am waiting for him to send them to me, so the kit will be ready to offer it.
The TFT display with the Acrylic Bracket, I showed it, completely finished and assembled. As for the main electronic board, I want to make some changes, but to show the product working now it works for me, and as soon as I modify what I want to change, I have the new board here in about 7 days.
I will need to order the custom cables, which are the power supply cable of the screen to the kit board and the power cable that connects the main board of the kit, to the 12v main power in the pinball.
Vectorized images for FILM and PAID videos. Correcting some things of the monster video, and small details.
One more change in the KISS video, to this a background music has been added, although it has not been done on the latest version of the video that is the one I chose. But in this video you can hear the new background music effect that will be added.
ScreenHunter_041.jpgScreenHunter_040.jpgScreenHunter_037.jpg
ScreenHunter_030.jpgScreenHunter_032.jpg
monstruo_edicion_sonido.jpgQuoted from bsbdmd83:Obviously your getting tons of input, but I thought you had said you're getting rid of the UFO?
No, I said I would give TWO videos, one with the UFO and one without the UFO. And that each one can choose the one they want.
The modeling of the Creature in 3D, is gradually developed, as seen in the attached image, using the Blender tool. We still have to add the textures and details, but what I see I like a lot, I think it will look great. This time I have already told the designer, that the lips are not reddish, but rather greenish.
We still don't know in which video or videos this 3D monster will be used. It has many possibilities, since it allows us to place the monster in any position and animate it so that it can be viewed from any angle, close-ups or full-length, with the highest quality and detail.
I'm even thinking of modeling the woman in 3D, for one of the videos I had in mind.
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