It will sometimes quickly flip one or more times before locking in the hold position. Cleaned EOS and flipper button switches, re-flowed a coil wire that seemed suspect, then when those ideas didn’t work I replaced EOS switch without any improvement.

Appreciate any help here, switch test indicated EOS is off and on when it’s happening.

Thanks in advance-

Thanks, appreciate the quick reply Lloyd!

Not sure exactly what it’s called but the wire/diode/resistor that jumps from lug 1 to lug 3 on the coil broke at the middle by the guts, can’t be resoldered. Will probably just order a new coil and start fresh on this with a flipper rebuild to be sure since I’ve had multiple issues with this flipper since getting the machine and the coil is not original, not even sure it’s the right one for that flipper. Hobbit ownership is an adventure......

Ok thanks. Pardon my ignorance, but what does it do and why is it there? I’ve seen other posts saying these are not required / optional. Trying to learn as I go, appreciate all of your help!!

Wouldn't the parts diagram in the manual be the definitive source? They are not listed in The Hobbit diagram, specifically I'm on pages C-18 & C-19 for the flipper assemblies. I ordered replacement coils from JJP when I first got my machine, and there was no mention of this part in my dialogue with them either. The upper flipper I'm rebuilding had a replaced coil there and it was poorly installed in several ways and has given me trouble since day 1, so I'm not sure I trust that the diode is correctly placed there.

For what it's worth I had the correct JJP coil on hand and did the rebuild before I saw your latest reply. It plays fine without the diode although I don't want to risk damaging the machine, so I will order them and leave the game off for another week waiting for this 11 cent part to arrive! Guess I'll order some extras.....adding photos to show replaced, and what appears to be factory left and right coils which are different in their diode layouts

Cheers!
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Thanks, your lower ones seem to match mine. I called JJP and they said only the early WOZ games had diodes, and all games are ok without them due to having the resistors on the boards. So confusing......but it plays fine without it on the upper.

What is your model / build date if you don’t mind me asking? I will share this info back with Ken just for informational purposes since both our machines appear to have the same (factory) diodes on the lower coils, contradicting what he stated about their history. He stated you can see the resistors on the board if you look on all JJP machines, so I suppose that is easily verifiable if one knows what to look for!

Right, diodes. I was using the terms interchangeably.....my mistake.