(Topic ID: 292821)

Hobbit upper flipper twitch/chatter


By Plungerboy

10 days ago

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  • 12 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Plungerboy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 10 days ago

It will sometimes quickly flip one or more times before locking in the hold position. Cleaned EOS and flipper button switches, re-flowed a coil wire that seemed suspect, then when those ideas didn’t work I replaced EOS switch without any improvement.

Appreciate any help here, switch test indicated EOS is off and on when it’s happening.

Thanks in advance-

#2 10 days ago

I'd concentrate on the coil lugs. Especially the thin wire from the coil windings to the coil lugs. Easy to have a crack or break you can't see, dig around them.

I'd reflow all three lugs, or replace the coil in case it has a break inside you can't see.

LTG : )

#3 10 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd concentrate on the coil lugs. Especially the thin wire from the coil windings to the coil lugs. Easy to have a crack or break you can't see, dig around them.
I'd reflow all three lugs, or replace the coil in case it has a break inside you can't see.
LTG : )

Thanks, appreciate the quick reply Lloyd!

#4 10 days ago

Not sure exactly what it’s called but the wire/diode/resistor that jumps from lug 1 to lug 3 on the coil broke at the middle by the guts, can’t be resoldered. Will probably just order a new coil and start fresh on this with a flipper rebuild to be sure since I’ve had multiple issues with this flipper since getting the machine and the coil is not original, not even sure it’s the right one for that flipper. Hobbit ownership is an adventure......

#5 9 days ago

1N4004 or 1N4007 diode will work. Get the silver banded end back in the same spot as the broken diode.

If you replace the coil, be sure the diodes match up the same as the old coil and get the wires back in the same spots.

LTG : )

#6 9 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

1N4004 or 1N4007 diode will work. Get the silver banded end back in the same spot as the broken diode.
If you replace the coil, be sure the diodes match up the same as the old coil and get the wires back in the same spots.
LTG : )

Ok thanks. Pardon my ignorance, but what does it do and why is it there? I’ve seen other posts saying these are not required / optional. Trying to learn as I go, appreciate all of your help!!

#7 9 days ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

but what does it do and why is it there?

To prevent current from going back the wrong direction and blowing up a lot of cool stuff.

Quoted from Plungerboy:

I’ve seen other posts saying these are not required / optional.

Some games have the diodes on the driver board so not necessary on the coil.

If a coil has them, don't leave them off.

LTG : )

#8 9 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

If a coil has them, don't leave them off.
LTG : )

Wouldn't the parts diagram in the manual be the definitive source? They are not listed in The Hobbit diagram, specifically I'm on pages C-18 & C-19 for the flipper assemblies. I ordered replacement coils from JJP when I first got my machine, and there was no mention of this part in my dialogue with them either. The upper flipper I'm rebuilding had a replaced coil there and it was poorly installed in several ways and has given me trouble since day 1, so I'm not sure I trust that the diode is correctly placed there.

For what it's worth I had the correct JJP coil on hand and did the rebuild before I saw your latest reply. It plays fine without the diode although I don't want to risk damaging the machine, so I will order them and leave the game off for another week waiting for this 11 cent part to arrive! Guess I'll order some extras.....adding photos to show replaced, and what appears to be factory left and right coils which are different in their diode layouts

Cheers!
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#9 8 days ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

Wouldn't the parts diagram in the manual be the definitive source?

No idea.

I tend to keep things identical when replacing a coil. Wires in the same spots. Diodes if there in the same way.

Here are pictures of my game's flippers.

LTG : )

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#10 8 days ago

Thanks, your lower ones seem to match mine. I called JJP and they said only the early WOZ games had diodes, and all games are ok without them due to having the resistors on the boards. So confusing......but it plays fine without it on the upper.

What is your model / build date if you don’t mind me asking? I will share this info back with Ken just for informational purposes since both our machines appear to have the same (factory) diodes on the lower coils, contradicting what he stated about their history. He stated you can see the resistors on the board if you look on all JJP machines, so I suppose that is easily verifiable if one knows what to look for!

#11 7 days ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

all games are ok without them due to having the resistors on the boards.

Due to having diodes on the I/O board. ( not resistors )

THLE 2/3/2016.

Quoted from Plungerboy:

He stated you can see the resistors on the board if you look on all JJP machines, so I suppose that is easily verifiable if one knows what to look for!

Diodes ( not resistors ). Trust Ken on this. He knows JJP games inside and out.

And while you don't need the diodes on the coils. Please still put the wires back in the same spots. So your power and hold work right.

It isn't confusing. When your game was built, they used parts on hand. Some of which had diodes. No biggie.

LTG : )

#12 7 days ago

Right, diodes. I was using the terms interchangeably.....my mistake.

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