(Topic ID: 156561)

Hobbit Smaug LE - first impressions

By zsciaeount

8 years ago


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  • 118 posts
  • 59 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Goronic
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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-28
#32 8 years ago
Quoted from zsciaeount:

But, unfortunately, the mech problem continues to be an issue, and the diverter does not work. This is a pretty significant issue, since that's where it goes for a mode start. All of the connections are tight, so there is a problem somewhere between the board and the coil. They've had me do a bunch of stuff, like re-seat all of the cables, and ground out the transistor to see if the coil fires (it does not).
Basically, the problem is in the wiring, and they seem to think that it should be my responsibility to undo the main artery in the wire harness, dig out all of the wires and test them individually. I'm sorry, but I just dropped $8500 on a new premium pinball machine. It should not fall to me to essentially dismantle a large portion of the underside of the playfield.

It is not relevant what you paid. A $2000 machine and a $10000 machine should both work and be under warranty the same way.

Anyways, pinballs break new or not. It should be on the owner to dismantle wires and trace down issues. It's up to the manufacturer to assist and suggest things and pay for parts. It's up to the owner to do the leg work.

In your case, it doesn't sound too tough. Get your dmm out and set it to DC volts. With coin door closed test red on the coil and black on the ground strap for voltage at the coil. If it's not present, then be tracing wires to that coil from the previous ones and check fuses. It's likely a wire that came off.

If you do have voltage at the coil then it's likely a short between the transistor and the coil - either in the trace from the transistor to the board header or in the wire from the header to the coil. Neither of these are difficult or time consuming to track down. (Maybe 15 minutes of effort here). If you can't be bothered with doing those simple things then perhaps just sell your game.

I'd be much more unhappy having to fill in and redecal part of that cabinet. That seems like a much bigger job.

-11
#34 8 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

What a ridiculous post. Significant issues out of the box (most well beyond what you would expect to see) and you're now suggesting it be sold because he 'can't be bothered'. Perhaps just leave it at offering the help with the wiring instead of commenting further about a situation you know very little about.

I know something about it. He indicated he can't be bothering tracing some wires or taking apart a wiring harness - something which isn't more than 15-20 mins of effort. This is just part of pinball ownership. So yea, if he can't be bothered doing that sort of thing he should definitely sell and move on.

The other issues I would agree with. But those aren't the issues he is complaining about surprisingly.

#65 8 years ago

I actually think replacing the game was warranted from the beginning but based on the damage to the cabinet. My big surprise here is that the OP has no issues with the big problems but is unable to spend a few minutes tracking down a potentially severed wire. It really is easy for anybody to do if they make the effort. We aren't talking about an advanced repair. There are probably 5-6 wire ties to cut to loosen the wires and you can trace it all down in about 15 minutes. Then you can tie strap them back up.

Some of you guys have put the most ridiculous words in my mouth here.

Quoted from zsciaeount:

you have oodles of time to dismantle and reassemble a NIB machine, consumer protection laws are on my side. Errors in manufacturing that significantly impair the use of a product are the responsibility of the manufacturer to repair, at no cost to the consumer; if those repairs cannot be made, or if they are significantly delayed, I have legal recourse to recoup my investment or receive a replacement.

Sounds like all this hassling you've gone through, the time spent in this thread, and pressing legal charges against JJP will take much less than the 15 or so minutes to follow the direction JJP support has given you to trace a broken wire???

I agree the game should have been in working shape when it arrived. It wasn't. Of all the problems listed, this is the one preventing you from playing it and probably the simplest one to solve. I think you have a great case on the cabinet damage alone. But you seem ok with that. I have no idea why.

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