Quoted from zsciaeount:But, unfortunately, the mech problem continues to be an issue, and the diverter does not work. This is a pretty significant issue, since that's where it goes for a mode start. All of the connections are tight, so there is a problem somewhere between the board and the coil. They've had me do a bunch of stuff, like re-seat all of the cables, and ground out the transistor to see if the coil fires (it does not).
Basically, the problem is in the wiring, and they seem to think that it should be my responsibility to undo the main artery in the wire harness, dig out all of the wires and test them individually. I'm sorry, but I just dropped $8500 on a new premium pinball machine. It should not fall to me to essentially dismantle a large portion of the underside of the playfield.
It is not relevant what you paid. A $2000 machine and a $10000 machine should both work and be under warranty the same way.
Anyways, pinballs break new or not. It should be on the owner to dismantle wires and trace down issues. It's up to the manufacturer to assist and suggest things and pay for parts. It's up to the owner to do the leg work.
In your case, it doesn't sound too tough. Get your dmm out and set it to DC volts. With coin door closed test red on the coil and black on the ground strap for voltage at the coil. If it's not present, then be tracing wires to that coil from the previous ones and check fuses. It's likely a wire that came off.
If you do have voltage at the coil then it's likely a short between the transistor and the coil - either in the trace from the transistor to the board header or in the wire from the header to the coil. Neither of these are difficult or time consuming to track down. (Maybe 15 minutes of effort here). If you can't be bothered with doing those simple things then perhaps just sell your game.
I'd be much more unhappy having to fill in and redecal part of that cabinet. That seems like a much bigger job.