(Topic ID: 158237)

Hobbit setup, tweaks and adjustments

By pinballinreno

7 years ago


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  • 627 posts
  • 120 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by PinPeet
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Post #594 Beast pop-up improvement Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)

Post #607 backbox light filter for washed out white to flesh color - w/amazon link Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)

Post #612 Teflon dry lube spray for shooter rod Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)


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#213 7 years ago

I just unboxed my hobbit and I've been trying to iron out the kinks on this machine I had an issue with the ball not going into the hole above Smaug and found this plastic piece covering the hole(see attached pic). It looks like the metal tab broke off from wherever it was supposed to be. Also that start button is stuck when you try to push it in. It looks like the lock bar may need to be adjusted up as the playfield sits too low and is resting on the switch. What are your thoughts?

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#216 7 years ago

So it turns out one of the rubbers on the rail was sitting on top of the computer cabinet so I just had to slide the cabinet over. Still not too sure about that white piece though.

#218 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

As it relates to the start button getting stuck, sometimes the playfield doesn't sit level and can actually catch the back of the start button housing if everything is just so. Pull the playfield forward and flip up, make sure the start button is oriented correctly and that it is sitting flush inside the housing. With the playfield up, correct the start button and make sure it's not askew and works smoothly. Then as you lower the field to put the tabs in the slots, make sure it doesn't try to rest on the button housing. The tolerance there is a bit too close. Just take it slow and all will be well.

Thanks for the tip. I ended up finding one of the rubbers on the rail was sitting on the board box. The new board set up with jjp going forward will be nice.

1 week later
#240 7 years ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Did you figure out what the plastic piece is for? I had the same problem.

Nope, I emailed Frank at JJP regarding that piece as well as the sound issues I'm having last week and haven't heard back from him. Did you find it in the same spot?

#243 7 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I had the same problem with the start button. The bulb is too big (slightly). Unhook the switch (it twists to the side about 20 degrees), take it out, put the switch back, and the button works fine. I intend to sand the sides of the bulb top area and try it again. It's just *barely* too wide.

I actually found that the rubber legs on the rails were on the control board box and was causing it to put pressure on the start button. Just had to slide the box over a little.

#252 7 years ago
Quoted from finman2000:

What kind of sound issues are you having? I was getting static in the right speaker. Issue was the 3.5mm aux. cable between the motherboard and the sound board was bad. The cable they use is cheap. I used one I had on hand and that resolved my issue.

The sound makes a crackling noise. I'll have to check the connections. Jjp recommended to my dealer that I clean the contacts. I haven't had a chance to yet.

#254 7 years ago
Quoted from finman2000:

I think you are having the same problem I did. If you have a spare 3.5mm cord try that. It should be the cable that connects from the pink plug on the inside of the metal case on the sound board to the green plug on the outside of the metal case that is actual the computer motherboard(MSI)

Thanks for a heads up. I'll try it out.

#258 7 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

That piece uses the gray stickey strip to attach directly underneath the writing on the ramps. The strip is situated directly between the Optos, and sticks to the underside of the ramp. It is used to diffuse the light that is used to light up the words on the ramp. If you look closely you'll see that most likely one ramp has this and one is missing.

Thanks for letting me know!

#314 7 years ago
Quoted from Rom:

I give up atm on the Hobbit. Beast head fell off because it was barely attached with only one screw. Another beast is not registering any more because the cables from the switch of the head were chopped off because they touched the upper trapped ball fix every time they raise. I also spotted another beast with the cables halfway chopped already caused by the same issue. Mine came with the ball trapped fixes already installed. So not caused by me.
Recap:
-many missing screws on various parts (fixed it already)
-cables pinched between screws that go into the wood (fixed it already)
-speakers popping & crackling (still needs to be solved somehow)
-unplayable since beasts not reigistering any more (needs to be addressed)
-lockbar not closing unless you force it (needs to be addressed)
-beast head barely attached with one screw, second screw was non-existant (fixed it already)
-headphone jack not working at all (needs to be addressed)
-to take the invisiglass off it takes forces that can't possibly be meant like that.
Since I have it i was not able to play more than 1 game without having to open it and fix something / looking for sources of problems.
Well that is not the experience I had in mind when purchasing a more than 9000 Euros NIB machine.

With the glass issue try putting a little pressure on the glass towards the top then slide it out

#315 7 years ago

It's there a way to disable the left slingshot in the menus?

#317 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

For what purpose?
You can make it weaker in the settings if you want.
If your serious, I imagine you can bend the contacts way back so that it doesnt fire.
I have all my slings cranked way up, it makes for exciting game play.

Sling arm is hitting the playfield. Talking with JJP on it but want to play it tonight when family comes over.

1 month later
#497 7 years ago
Quoted from ls1chris:

Anyone else have clearance issues with the left sling axe hitting the PF? At the end of stroke mine hits the Pf , the mech looks more inward then the right side

Yep.. Undo the solenoid coil and add a couple washers in the sleeve. Hopefully you caught it before too much damage.

1 month later
#522 7 years ago

Can anyone suggest a way to adjust the beast mechs so they don't rub on the back side of the hole? I've also been looking for a fix for the beast mech wires rubbing i know someone posted one a wwhile back using a washer but i can't find the post. Thanks

2 months later
#547 6 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

I'll be having a league night at my house in a few weeks. Many members have insisted that Hobbit be in the rotation, but I'm reluctant because of the long ball times.
I'm too lazy to read through 11 pages of posts; does anyone have any suggestions about setting up Hobbit for league play? Some things I will be doing:
- set the pitch to 7 degrees
- remove the centre post
- open up the outlanes
Are there any settings that can be manipulated to keep ball times relatively short (+/-5 minutes)?

I believe you can adjust how hard it is to make it through the map as well as how hard it is to get Into Smaug multiball. The difficulty setting for Gollum can be adjusted too. You can also turn off ball saves/extra ball.

1 month later
#554 6 years ago

What kind of adjustment do I make so the ball doesn't spin out from the right wireform into the outlane?

#563 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just used a big nut driver through the lower loop and bent it backwards a bit until the handle touched the wireform.
Basically bent the loop up about 3/16" to 1/4". This will spin the ball laterally instead of up and out of the lane guide. Seems to work very well and is a simple tweak.
I did this on both wireforms as the ball can also spin out of the left one too.
Its very annoying when it happens.

Thanks I'll try it. I tried to adjust it last weekend but found it was hard to move the bottom part of the wireform.

1 month later
#572 6 years ago

The other day the upper flipper stopped retracting all the way. I lifted the playfield and it seems like it might be rubbing on the inside of the coil. I took a look at the lower flippers and they seem much more smooth. The spring is still on it as well. Any ideas on what to look for?

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#575 6 years ago

I adjusted the flipper and pulled the coil sleeve out. There was quite a bit of dust. What's the best way to clean the sleeve? I noticed that there seems to be a bit of wear on the sleeve is this normal.

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#577 6 years ago

Thanks, that's how I cleaned them out just wanted another opinion. For the sleeves is it one size fits all?

#581 6 years ago

Thanks!

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