Yeah, I thought also tap some black paint there. No worth to start change whole coindoor allthought they would change it.

quick question. so when the updates that were released so far are loaded on the machine did any of them erase the play count?

Reason i ask is my Hobbit says 200 plays at 1.94 but i bought it used and just wondering if thats the actual amount or if updates have erased the actual number like a Stern would do each time there updated.

When a delta update is done, no changes to stats When a full install happens, hard drive is re-written and everything is reset.

so which updates so far would be considered full installs? from .81 to 1.0 or 1.3 to 1.90 or non yet they have all been Deltas?

1.01 was a full install; many games shipped with .81 so in order to update to the newer versions, 1.01 full install was needed. 1.90 is the latest release and that's a delta that rides on top of 1.01. The coming 1.94 is also a delta update.

thanks man for clearing everything up for me!

No problem. I know it's confusing at times.

You can before any update, go to Utilities - Settings back up, put that on a USB stick, install the update, then go back to Utilities and do Settings Restore.

Then all your old settings will be there. Just in case.

LTG : )

I love this feature!

Thanks! i had a WOZ but never had to do anything besides update to 6.06 once but now with the Hobbit having delta code updates i got to admit i was confused on how to do the delta updates at first and tryed to install it like a normal full update.

What's the best way to install an external sub to the hobbit and where to run the wires out to the sub?

Run a speaker wire into lower cabinet to hook to the positive and negative terminals on the lower cabinet speaker. Get a amplified subwoofer that has high level input (speaker wire input) and your good to go!!! Look in back you will see holes with mesh in them, loosen the screws holding the mesh so you have room to push the wire thru!

There is a AUX output jack on the soundboard. Use that.

PROBLEM: When playing the Hobbit even after installing the new post w/ the rubber on the diverter ramp. It will hit the rubber and fly off and go into the in lane or jump right over the out lane plastic. BALL LOST. What the hell...

Ball must be coming down there with some speed on it. Maybe remove the rubber? Since I put the post on my game it rarely has a problem.

At this point, its unplayable.. I wish that ramp had the double metal on it like the other two ramps do. This would have fixed this issue...

Minor bending of the ramp/post should solve this. If not, JJP sells the ramp with the extra wire for those who got early machines.

Same here, though once fully startet the high pitched sound goes away, or maybe I just can no longer hear it over the crackling or burbling sound/static I get from my machine.

What is the best way to do this?

I had a pm from an amazingly helpful Pinsider on this... they suggested the problem was a missing ground loop isolator, I bought this one on Ebay, installed it between the green jack plug at the rear/outside of the metal box and hey presto! the interference has totally gone!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-3-5mm-Jack-Ground-Loop-Isolator-Audio-Noise-Filter-Unwanted-Hum-Inductor-/232000190447?hash=item360449f7ef:g:~8IAAOSw-KFXeA-D

If this is a common issue why they are not installed at the factory is anyones guess as in my case it was definitely required.

note: I know there has been a lot of audio issues reported but just to be clear mine was a high pitched squeaking/intereference type noise, evident from the moment you switch the machine on and the LCD comes on

thewool

If you have an iphone could you install an app called Spectrumview (https://itunes.apple.com/au/app/spectrumview/id472662922?mt=8) and do a screen shot of what it looks like. Try and get the screenshot of before the machine turns on and after. And also with the ground loop isolator installed.

This would be an excellent resource for other users. They just compare and see if it is a similar frequency.

Example.
Large vertical line is the boot noise.
during boot and the loud noise when it first powers up

Long horizontal line is the fan noise.
while booted you can see the constant fan noise at 600hz

If there was a high pitched noise i'd expect to see another higher line right across the screen.

Thank you Sir, I've just orderer one and will post back here with the results!

Hi, I have an iPad, will it work on that?

How often are you guys seeing the deverter drop? I haven't seen it yet...I ran the coil test and it'll repeatedly go down a little bit, so I assumed that it's working. I'd just expect to see it more in gameplay.

I think it's in the Moon Runes mode & Barrel Escape.

Any tweak here for the left autoplunger ?
Sometimes it misses the ball completely, sometimes it brings back the ball with less power. Also hitting the 3 right targets with
the button from the autoplunger ... sometimes harder, sometimes softer.
i checked the coil, plunger, mechanismen and the corresponding switch .. all looks okay.

Cheers
Tom

I simply alligator clip speaker wire to the sub in the the bottom of the cab, run the wire through a small hole I drill in one of the meshes in the rear bottom of the cab and put the wires into the "in" connection of an external sub (most of mine are the Polk but have one other sub from MCM electronics).

Imho, external subs are the number one bang for the buck mod and I use them on all my pins.

Awesome...thanks. I just wanted to be sure nothing is messed up with my game!

Yeah it's not used that often - but it is used!

I thought he was talking about the windlance/kickback?

Anyone have issues with their plunger? Brand new Smaug and shortly after setup the manual launcher barely gets the ball out of the trough. Is there a way to adjust this?

Sounds like that might be what JJP Support shipped me (isolation transformer) as i have the exact same issue (rest of the game is perfect).
First they sent me a new sound board & cable, but it made zero difference. After reading your post I'm really hoping this is the fix!

Any idea on what the tech did? It appears that the washer between the rubber tip of the shooter rod and the spring is hitting the auto plunger mechanism. Either the rod needs to be a bit lower, the auto plunger needs to be rotated forward, or playfield needs to be elevated a bit.

However I cannot see a means of adjusting the positioning of any of these elements.

Any help is appreciated.

Yes it should do!

I had to adjust my plunger assembly a bit...there are 3 screws that hold the plunger in place on the inside of your cabinet...loosen them and you can get about 1/2" of play. Move it so it doesn't hit your autoplunger

I had to adjust my plunger assembly a bit...there are 3 screws that hold the plunger in place on the inside of your cabinet...loosen them and you can get about 1/2" of play. Move it so it doesn't hit your autoplunger

I tried that however there wasn't enough play to lower the rod sufficiently. Obviously something has settled however the playfield is sitting at satisfactory angles north/south and east/west. What I did was place two 1/10,000th's stainless shims under the bottom edge of the plunger assembly, causing the rod tip to angle slightly downward. Imperceptible and did the trick. I'd still like to know what is out of spec and how to fix it though.

So just got my Hobbit, should I be able to backhand both ramps?

At the moment I can not just wondering if other owners have dialed up their flipper power to be able to do so?

yes easily. i think my flippers are both on 25

I think I turned down my flipper power, but I forget what it's at. I had balls flying off the ramps when it was higher. I can certainly backhand both ramps. I wouldn't call it "easy" per se, but I can do it fairly consistently and there's JUST enough power to get past the curve of the ramp.

Thanks do you know what your game is pitched at?