(Topic ID: 158237)

Hobbit setup, tweaks and adjustments

By pinballinreno

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 8 months ago by paulbaptise
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There are 626 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 13.
#201 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Yes and when you do this make sure you can still backhand the right ramp with a cradled ball. Should just barely make it.

Cool - I think I just found a sweetspot that's strong enough...just had a pretty long game (got to Into the Fire and Barrel Escape) and didn't have any balls fly off the right wireform.

#202 4 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Hey guys, just got a Hobbit ...the ball likes to fly off the wire form on the right (as it whips around under the book). Has anyone worked out a physical tweak to prevent this, or is it merely a matter of dialing in the flipper strength?

I had this same issue and after turning down the flipper strength to the point where it would no longer fall off the rail, I could barely make the shots up the ramp. JJP ended up sending me a new wire form and I could see that the new one hugged the ball a little tighter than the old one around that curve.

#203 4 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Cool - I think I just found a sweetspot that's strong enough...just had a pretty long game (got to Into the Fire and Barrel Escape) and didn't have any balls fly off the right wireform.

Playfield pitch and flipper strength adjustments go hand n hand.
As you have found there is a sweet spot where everything just falls into place.

My game seems to like 7.1 degrees and the right flipper strength set one increment above the left.
I plays fast, error free and consistent game after game.

The only thing that makes it wild is the few games after a fresh wax with P21S, but it settles down quickly enough without any further adjustment.

#204 4 years ago
Quoted from Gritty:

Issue resolved! Thanks for your help. I posted a picture just incase someone runs into this issue again. I guess they forgot to include this part in the factory. It took a couple weeks of play before it became magnetized and stopped working.

pinjunky, looking at your picture is the plastic setscrew in the bracket? I cant tell from your photo but here is what mine looks like (apologies for the blurry picture as I couldnt get the camera to focus on the white setscrew)!

IMG_6932[1] (resized).JPG

#205 4 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Hey guys, just got a Hobbit ...the ball likes to fly off the wire form on the right (as it whips around under the book). Has anyone worked out a physical tweak to prevent this, or is it merely a matter of dialing in the flipper strength?

I also bent up the inside edge of the wireform to make the "wall" higher, so to speak. This and the flipper strength solved most of the issue, but things still fly off the track now and then.

#206 4 years ago

I have been doing great with the hobbit over the last 5 months (since getting it). However, on 3 occasions during a game some of the lights will 'lock' in - and it appears to be different lights on the playfield. The game keeps playing but the lights don't go back to normal. Even when launching a new ball (or starting a new game). However, if I reboot the machine it is back to normal. This started happening last week and did it twice last night. Any thoughts?

Could it be a grounding wire that has came loose?

#207 4 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I have been doing great with the hobbit over the last 5 months (since getting it). However, on 3 occasions during a game some of the lights will 'lock' in - and it appears to be different lights on the playfield. The game keeps playing but the lights don't go back to normal. Even when launching a new ball (or starting a new game). However, if I reboot the machine it is back to normal. This started happening last week and did it twice last night. Any thoughts?
Could it be a grounding wire that has came loose?

If its locking up it could be low wall power, loose ram modules, or a bad or corrupt software load.
Maybe replace the ram or maybe try re-arranging the ram and possibly re-install the software iso plus delta updates, after backing up your settings of course.

Unstable ram and bad SSD drives produce odd intermittent lock-ups.

And yes unstable power and grounding issues of course, but not on the top of my list for now.

#208 4 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

pinjunky, looking at your picture is the plastic setscrew in the bracket? I cant tell from your photo but here is what mine looks like (apologies for the blurry picture as I couldnt get the camera to focus on the white setscrew)!

Yes that's what it is. I am missing the plastic screw. Spoke with JJP today and they are sending it out.

#209 4 years ago
Quoted from Gritty:

Yes that's what it is. I am missing the plastic screw. Spoke with JJP today and they are sending it out.

Look in the bottom of your cabinet as it may have fallen out! Without the setscrew the plunger sits to far down thus there is not enough of the metal plunger inside of the coil. The coil will energize, as it should, but it wont activate the plunger since the plastic (nylon) portion of the plunger is inside of the coil!

There should be a plastic (nylon) setscrew and nut. Once you get the setscrew set to the proper setting the nut then is tighten so it will hold the setscrew at the proper setting (how many times can you use "set" in a post?).

#210 4 years ago
Quoted from Gritty:

Issue resolved! Thanks for your help. I posted a picture just incase someone runs into this issue again. I guess they forgot to include this part in the factory. It took a couple weeks of play before it became magnetized and stopped working.

Glad it worked! I was pretty confused when it originally happened, I'm happy to save someone else some trouble .

#211 4 years ago

Do people still have the problem where Smaug fails to catch the ball with his magnet? I had to switch out my ramp a few months ago and I didn't quite get my magnet level with the drop off point when I installed it back in. Because the magnet is recessed in about 2mm it *always* catches the ball perfectly now.

Wondering if the code changed as well or if it is purely recessing the magnet that did the trick.

Also, do you guys think this will cause increased wear on the ball/magnet? I do see a wear wear mark on the magnet but maybe that is normal? I'm not sure how much I should be concerned about wear on the magnet, about 40% of the surface in a line looks worn-ish. I'm about 500 games in on my machine.

#212 4 years ago
Quoted from goldant:

Also, do you guys think this will cause increased wear on the ball/magnet? I do see a wear wear mark on the magnet but maybe that is normal? I'm not sure how much I should be concerned about wear on the magnet, about 40% of the surface in a line looks worn-ish. I'm about 500 games in on my machine.

I've been thinking about putting mylar over the magnet. Have not tried it yet though...

#213 4 years ago

I just unboxed my hobbit and I've been trying to iron out the kinks on this machine I had an issue with the ball not going into the hole above Smaug and found this plastic piece covering the hole(see attached pic). It looks like the metal tab broke off from wherever it was supposed to be. Also that start button is stuck when you try to push it in. It looks like the lock bar may need to be adjusted up as the playfield sits too low and is resting on the switch. What are your thoughts?

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#214 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I just unboxed my hobbit and I've been trying to iron out the kinks on this machine I had an issue with the ball not going into the hole above Smaug and found this plastic piece covering the hole(see attached pic). It looks like the metal tab broke off from wherever it was supposed to be. Also that start button is stuck when you try to push it in. It looks like the lock bar may need to be adjusted up as the playfield sits too low and is resting on the switch. What are your thoughts?

It looks like you have some minor shipping damage.
Immediately call Frank and get the replacement parts ordered. He will also guide you on adjustments if you need help.
If the game was dropped even slightly, you will see similar damage.
Fortunately for you it looks fairly minor.
Check everywhere for cracks or loose seams in the cabinet.
Make sure that everything operates smoothly with no binding e.g. character mechs, smaug head etc.
Report everything you see.

#215 4 years ago

Slightly related, but what's the best way to clean the metal ramps? There's a bit of build up of dirt I'd like to safely remove. Tried Novus 2 but it seemed to just dull it.

#216 4 years ago

So it turns out one of the rubbers on the rail was sitting on top of the computer cabinet so I just had to slide the cabinet over. Still not too sure about that white piece though.

#217 4 years ago

As it relates to the start button getting stuck, sometimes the playfield doesn't sit level and can actually catch the back of the start button housing if everything is just so. Pull the playfield forward and flip up, make sure the start button is oriented correctly and that it is sitting flush inside the housing. With the playfield up, correct the start button and make sure it's not askew and works smoothly. Then as you lower the field to put the tabs in the slots, make sure it doesn't try to rest on the button housing. The tolerance there is a bit too close. Just take it slow and all will be well.

#218 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

As it relates to the start button getting stuck, sometimes the playfield doesn't sit level and can actually catch the back of the start button housing if everything is just so. Pull the playfield forward and flip up, make sure the start button is oriented correctly and that it is sitting flush inside the housing. With the playfield up, correct the start button and make sure it's not askew and works smoothly. Then as you lower the field to put the tabs in the slots, make sure it doesn't try to rest on the button housing. The tolerance there is a bit too close. Just take it slow and all will be well.

Thanks for the tip. I ended up finding one of the rubbers on the rail was sitting on the board box. The new board set up with jjp going forward will be nice.

#219 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Got my Hobbit this week and it has a build date of 8/3/16. Looks like the fixed left wireform is installed and the character mylar. I'm not sure if there is a ramp fix installed.
I've got the playfield set to 6.9 and haven't adjusted the flippers yet. It's definitely tough to get up the ramps and nearly impossible backhand so those probably need to be boosted. However when you get a real clean shot and it zips up they have occasionally flown off the right wires and one time it jumped the left ramp into smaugs gold pit. Exciting!
I love lively games but it does feel clunky when the ball falls off the right wires. Smaug was able to knock the ball in his gold pile free.
Have had one smack of the glass out of maybe two hours of play. Again I love that, but I'm worried it might be bad on invisaglass.
A question I have is regarding sound. I was expecting a lot more bass. I mean there's bass but it's just not BOOOMING. Didn't see an EQ in the options. Do you need to upgrade the sub and amp to get more rumble in the low end?

For those who tried this, how does it sound?
Also, I noticed that my right spinner has stopped registering, or at least isn't making the moving to erebor sound anymore. Why would that be?
Has anyone done anything to warm up the color of the LEDs in the backglass?
And where do we get cliffys/should I get them?
Thanks

#220 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlosopher:

Also, I noticed that my right spinner has stopped registering, or at least isn't making the moving to erebor sound anymore. Why would that be?
Has anyone done anything to warm up the color of the LEDs in the backglass?
And where do we get cliffys/should I get them?

1-Check and adjust the spinner switch:

Check for loose or broken off wire, adjust contact arm.

2-Get a some 1/2 CTO gel film to cover the backglass LED strip, install it with gorilla tape:

amazon.com link »

3-Get cliffys here:

http://cliffysprotectors.com/index.php?main_page=products_all

#221 4 years ago

Hobbit setup. Just got my Smaug 314, build date 8/15/16 set up. Just a reminder to snip the zip ties under the play field that hold the beast mechanics. I didn't see that in the instructions (or I missed it).

It seems to have the updated left wire form, 360 beast mylar, ball blockers under the the beasts, and I think it has the updated ramp but I don't know what the old ones looked like.

It is very very heavy. Get some friends to help you get it into the house. An appliance hand cart helps a lot (took it out of box and strapped it to that) they have them at harbor freight for $90

Set it up to 6.9 using pin guy ipad app (front legs all they way down with lock nut between the foot and the leg. back legs have 21-22 mm (13 or 14/16 of an inch) of the bolt sticking out of the nut that is welded to the leg)
Came with 1.31 - Installed 1.9 delta software. The folder "hobbit update" must be in the root directory of USB drive or it doesn't work
Found the ball flying off left ramp onto the wind-lace ramp
Found the ball flying off the right ramp around the barrel bumpers and onto playfield

All settings stock except:
Changed flipper strengths from default 20 to 18
Changed slings from default 22 to 20
Changed sound master volume from 29 to 20

There are still occasional times where the ball jumps the wire forms but not as much.

What are others finding for flipper strength settings?

Volume is better for my room.

What other settings are people changing?

I love this game.

Mods so far:
Sword Shooter rod (easy maybe 10 minutes)
Laserific green plastic protectors (easy maybe 10 minutes to install)

#222 4 years ago
Quoted from bonanza:

Hobbit setup. Just got my Smaug 314, build date 8/15/16 set up. Just a reminder to snip the zip ties under the play field that hold the beast mechanics. I didn't see that in the instructions (or I missed it).
It seems to have the updated left wire form, 360 beast mylar, ball blockers under the the beasts, and I think it has the updated ramp but I don't know what the old ones looked like.
It is very very heavy. Get some friends to help you get it into the house. An appliance hand cart helps a lot (took it out of box and strapped it to that) they have them at harbor freight for $90
Set it up to 6.9 using pin guy ipad app (front legs all they way down with lock nut between the foot and the leg. back legs have 21-22 mm (13 or 14/16 of an inch) of the bolt sticking out of the nut that is welded to the leg)
Came with 1.31 - Installed 1.9 delta software. The folder "hobbit update" must be in the root directory of USB drive or it doesn't work
Found the ball flying off left ramp onto the wind-lace ramp
Found the ball flying off the right ramp around the barrel bumpers and onto playfield
All settings stock except:
Changed flipper strengths from default 20 to 18
Changed slings from default 22 to 20
Changed sound master volume from 29 to 20
There are still occasional times where the ball jumps the wire forms but not as much.
Volume is better for my room
I love this game.

Congrats. It's a very fun game. Well built, heavy as hell but a blast to play.

#223 4 years ago
Quoted from bonanza:

Hobbit setup. Just got my Smaug 314, build date 8/15/16 set up. Just a reminder to snip the zip ties under the play field that hold the beast mechanics. I didn't see that in the instructions (or I missed it).
It seems to have the updated left wire form, 360 beast mylar, ball blockers under the the beasts, and I think it has the updated ramp but I don't know what the old ones looked like.
It is very very heavy. Get some friends to help you get it into the house. An appliance hand cart helps a lot (took it out of box and strapped it to that) they have them at harbor freight for $90
Set it up to 6.9 using pin guy ipad app (front legs all they way down with lock nut between the foot and the leg. back legs have 21-22 mm (13 or 14/16 of an inch) of the bolt sticking out of the nut that is welded to the leg)
Came with 1.31 - Installed 1.9 delta software. The folder "hobbit update" must be in the root directory of USB drive or it doesn't work
Found the ball flying off left ramp onto the wind-lace ramp
Found the ball flying off the right ramp around the barrel bumpers and onto playfield
All settings stock except:
Changed flipper strengths from default 20 to 18
Changed slings from default 22 to 20
Changed sound master volume from 29 to 20
There are still occasional times where the ball jumps the wire forms but not as much.
What are others finding for flipper strength settings?
Volume is better for my room.
What other settings are people changing?
I love this game.

Mods so far:
Sword Shooter rod (easy maybe 10 minutes)
Laserific green plastic protectors (easy maybe 10 minutes to install)

Brand new games are very fast.
It will tame down at 50 to 100 plays, just keep tweaking settings slightly until you get the perfect balance.
Balls will stay on the wireforms.
Wax it with P21S (silver can) to protect the new finish, this is important!

After a good waxing balls go everywhere for a few games, this is normal, no adjustment is needed really.
My game after 1500 plays goes nuts after waxing for about 10 games, as it is still like new.

#224 4 years ago

Discovered something by chance on my Hobbit.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/try-this

#225 4 years ago

Just unboxed mine and the game is stunning. But I have my speakers ticking constantly. Has anyone had the same issue?

I uploaded a video but you have to turn it loud to hear the ticking speakers.

#226 4 years ago
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:

Slightly related, but what's the best way to clean the metal ramps? There's a bit of build up of dirt I'd like to safely remove. Tried Novus 2 but it seemed to just dull it.

I have the same question

#227 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeekayjay:

I have the same question

When I had it out, I just cleaned it with Mist N shine and some sparkle.

#228 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I just unboxed my hobbit and I've been trying to iron out the kinks on this machine I had an issue with the ball not going into the hole above Smaug and found this plastic piece covering the hole(see attached pic).

Did you figure out what the plastic piece is for? I had the same problem.

#229 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check for loose or broken off wire, adjust contact arm.

Dumb question - how do you adjust a contact arm?

The cliffys here aren't really described as for Hobbit, maybe this is too ambitious for me

#230 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

When I had it out, I just cleaned it with Mist N shine and some sparkle.

That didn't get it out for me. I also tried aluminum cleaner and no dice there either.

#232 4 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

One thing you can do is add 10 ohm resistors on each of the backbox speakers. This will lower the volume and you'll have to turn it up louder to make it how it was - leaving more bass.
One of these on each speaker http://www.parts-express.com/10-ohm-25w-resistor-wire-wound--017-10. Just remove the wire off the + terminal on each speaker and solder the resistor inline.

Did anybody do this? How many resistors do you buy, and how does this increase the amount of bass? Would this be different depending on SE vs pro? And did anyone try the subwoofer idea?

#233 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlosopher:

You installed a sub? How?

On the soundboard there is a 3,5mm Aux jack that is not used. You will need a cable with 3,5mm male to two RCA plugs.
There is a hole in the back of the metal box perfect to put the cable through. And then I removed the small metal plate in the back of cabinet so the cable can come out there. Be gentle with the connectors on the soundboard. Make sure (if you use cable ties) that you do not put any stress on any connectors i.e the plugs should not be bending in any way.

#234 4 years ago

pinlosopher I could take som pictures if you are not sure where to look.
I'm happy to help...

#235 4 years ago
Quoted from Zebulon-74:

pinlosopher I could take som pictures if you are not sure where to look.
I'm happy to help...

Thanks that would be awesome!
Is there no way to do the same sort of thing but by upgrading speakers? I love subs but I wish it weren't necessary, e.g., WOZ has tons of base I think.

#236 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlosopher:

Thanks that would be awesome!
Is there no way to do the same sort of thing but by upgrading speakers? I love subs but I wish it weren't necessary, e.g., WOZ has tons of base I think.

Give me a few minutes...

#237 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlosopher:

Dumb question - how do you adjust a contact arm?

Leaf switches, actuators and the various flat metal "arms" that attach to micro switches are adjusted by careful bending.

#238 4 years ago

pinlosopher In the first picture: Connect your 3,5mm male to the green jack (marked: to AUX out)

Second picture:
You see where I choose to go out of the metal box (right side, single black cable)
Make sure you use cable ties so it stays away from the cpu fan.

NOTE: There is already a cable in the green jack, that goes to a connector in the back of the metal box. (Follow the cable and you see what I mean. It is meant to connect your AUX cable there (in the back of metal box)
You could do that if you are not comfortable routing the cable inside the box.
The reason I removed the existing cable is that it is just another source of problems such as intermittent contact and RF interference.
PS I also connected the cables from the backbox speakers directly to the sound board to get rid of possible problems.

IMG_0020 (resized).JPG

IMG_0019 (resized).JPG

#239 4 years ago

Oops! The pictures uploaded in the wrong order.

#240 4 years ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Did you figure out what the plastic piece is for? I had the same problem.

Nope, I emailed Frank at JJP regarding that piece as well as the sound issues I'm having last week and haven't heard back from him. Did you find it in the same spot?

#241 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I just unboxed my hobbit and I've been trying to iron out the kinks on this machine I had an issue with the ball not going into the hole above Smaug and found this plastic piece covering the hole(see attached pic). It looks like the metal tab broke off from wherever it was supposed to be. Also that start button is stuck when you try to push it in. It looks like the lock bar may need to be adjusted up as the playfield sits too low and is resting on the switch. What are your thoughts?

I had the same problem with the start button. The bulb is too big (slightly). Unhook the switch (it twists to the side about 20 degrees), take it out, put the switch back, and the button works fine. I intend to sand the sides of the bulb top area and try it again. It's just *barely* too wide.

#242 4 years ago
Quoted from Rom:

Just unboxed mine and the game is stunning. But I have my speakers ticking constantly. Has anyone had the same issue?
I uploaded a video but you have to turn it loud to hear the ticking speakers.
» YouTube video

This is fixed in version 1.94. It's in what I think is final beta now and should be out soon. I can confirm the popping problem is gone, as is the lockup at the high score entry screen (when you enter money too quickly there).

#243 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I had the same problem with the start button. The bulb is too big (slightly). Unhook the switch (it twists to the side about 20 degrees), take it out, put the switch back, and the button works fine. I intend to sand the sides of the bulb top area and try it again. It's just *barely* too wide.

I actually found that the rubber legs on the rails were on the control board box and was causing it to put pressure on the start button. Just had to slide the box over a little.

#244 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

Nope, I emailed Frank at JJP regarding that piece as well as the sound issues I'm having last week and haven't heard back from him. Did you find it in the same spot?

I found the plastic piece in front of the captive ball target towards the right hand side(right ramp).

#245 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I actually found that the rubber legs on the rails were on the control board box and was causing it to put pressure on the start button. Just had to slide the box over a little.

I'll look at that before I sand the bulb edges, then! Thanks.

#246 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

Nope, I emailed Frank at JJP regarding that piece as well as the sound issues I'm having last week and haven't heard back from him. Did you find it in the same spot?

What kind of sound issues are you having? I was getting static in the right speaker. Issue was the 3.5mm aux. cable between the motherboard and the sound board was bad. The cable they use is cheap. I used one I had on hand and that resolved my issue.

#247 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

This is fixed in version 1.94. It's in what I think is final beta now and should be out soon. I can confirm the popping problem is gone, as is the lockup at the high score entry screen (when you enter money too quickly there).

First of all thanks for your reply.
But I thought the issue that has been addressed in the new code after 1.9 was only happening during the voice acting but I have a constant ticking (clicking) noise at always the same rythm all the time. Also during attract mode with no sound at all. The clicking stays even if I set the volume to 0.
I also happen to have the headphone jack not working at all (tried on - off, volume high, low...not working)

I have checked all the related cables that go to the speakers from the soundboard and to the headphone jack in the coiondoor. They all sit tight and I also unplugged and replugged all of them. No change. Also if I unplug the left speakers - clicking remains, only right ones - clicking remains, unplugged both - clicking is gone. And volume settings do not change the volume of the clicking noise. E-mail to techhelp sent but was not answered yet.

I don't know what else I could do.

#248 4 years ago
Quoted from Rom:

E-mail to techhelp sent but was not answered yet.

I haven't seen it.

Please go to - http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com:8081/helpdesk/WebObjects/Helpdesk.woa and open a ticket.

Though they may not see it until Monday.

LTG : )

#249 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I haven't seen it.
Please go to - http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com:8081/helpdesk/WebObjects/Helpdesk.woa and open a ticket.
Though they may not see it until Monday.
LTG : )

Ok. I have done that now. Thank you.

#250 4 years ago
Quoted from Rom:

First of all thanks for your reply.
But I thought the issue that has been addressed in the new code after 1.9 was only happening during the voice acting but I have a constant ticking (clicking) noise at always the same rythm all the time. Also during attract mode with no sound at all. The clicking stays even if I set the volume to 0.
I also happen to have the headphone jack not working at all (tried on - off, volume high, low...not working)
I have checked all the related cables that go to the speakers from the soundboard and to the headphone jack in the coiondoor. They all sit tight and I also unplugged and replugged all of them. No change. Also if I unplug the left speakers - clicking remains, only right ones - clicking remains, unplugged both - clicking is gone. And volume settings do not change the volume of the clicking noise. E-mail to techhelp sent but was not answered yet.
I don't know what else I could do.

I sent you a PM.

You might want to also check the audio cables from the inside of the computer box. On mine, one of them was so loose it was almost falling out. That cable goes to the connectors on the back of the box that have the three plug connectors.

But I really think it's a software issue that version 1.94 will solve for you. Fixed the one I had a problem with completely so far.

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