The Hobbit
Jersey Jack, 2016Quoted from Goronic:By the way...the beast insert don't completely stop the stuck ball issue - just helps reduce it.
That is absolutely true.
However now that the balls cant be sucked down so deeply into the mech, the ball search will clear them effectively when it happens.
This is especially important on the routed games.
Also when a ball is stuck during multiball the multiball goes on forever giving millions of points that were not earned.
Quoted from iepinball:IndeedHave had traps on all 4 even with the inserts. They do however pop out with a ball search, but when you're in multiball there's no ball search...
Yeap...if you are in a multi ball you are screwed....and if you are in a mode you will likely run out of time.
Not sure if there is a way to resolve it completely - just part of deal with pop ups I guess. I don't have a MM - but does this happen on MM?
Quoted from Goronic:Yeap...if you are in a multi ball you are screwed....and if you are in a mode you will likely run out of time.
Not sure if there is a way to resolve it completely - just part of deal with pop ups I guess. I don't have a MM - but does this happen on MM?
It does happen on MM. But it seems less frequent I think because of only 2 mechs and they are not used that much.
I have had it happen a few times and the same problem, you have to remove the glass and dig them out.
I just finished installing the character ball trap fix:
firstly, I have to apologize to whoever made the detailed instruction sheet, I didnt use it.
installation took 8 mins:
lean pf against backbox with power off.
go find drill gun plus either a 12" magnetic extension for a 1/4" magnetic hex bit, or 3 regular 3" x 1/4" magnetic extensions stuck together plus a 1/4" magnetic hex bit (this is what I used to get a little flex out of the extension).
push one of the mechs thru the PF about 2".
put a dab of titebond on a screw and put it into the tool bit. place loaded gun on top of metal computer box.
wiggle the plastic insert from JJP around a bit in the front space of the mech until is right. Raising and lowering the mech helps to position it or push it in. angled ledge toward the pf edge, rounded gap toward the character head.
from the outside, reach in with a finger and press the insert firmly towards the edge. this is important, FIRMLY ON THE EDGE, no visible gaps seen from the other side.
grab your pre loaded gun and carefully mount the screws without stripping them out. there is plenty of room for the tool bit just push it in to the side of the wires.
do this 4 times.
I started with the spider mech it seemed the easiest.
it was super easy. works surprisingly well.
go into test check the up and down motion of the mechs
start a game check each mech and mech switch with a ball.
make any adjustments at this time.
Quoted from FalconPunch:That's cool. I didn't have the right tools. So it took me over 4 hours including finding lost screws and adjusting all the switchs to be less sensitive.
I installed mine yesterday. I decided to follow the JJP instructions and remove each beast mech. It was surprisingly easy to do - no lost screws or anything but it did take me a couple of hours. I had previously found a loose screw in one of the beast mechs and so removing them allowed me to give them a thorough inspection. I also appreciated the extra access removing the mechs gave me for installing the inserts.
Only issue I had was with the Spider insert. The Spider's legs that protrude at the front were rubbing on the insert so I used a dremmel on the insert and carved out a shallow area so that the spider's legs no longer touched it. Worked a treat.
What's funny is that the day after installing the inserts a ball got stuck in the Goblin. I know this can still happen, even with the inserts, but I found it ironic that it happened so soon after installing them. 
Quoted from ikrananka:I installed mine yesterday. I decided to follow the JJP instructions and remove each beast mech. It was surprisingly easy to do - no lost screws or anything but it did take me a couple of hours. I had previously found a loose screw in one of the beast mechs and so removing them allowed me to give them a thorough inspection. I also appreciated the extra access removing the mechs gave me for installing the inserts.
Only issue I had was with the Spider insert. The Spider's legs that protrude at the front were rubbing on the insert so I used a dremmel on the insert and carved out a shallow area so that the spider's legs no longer touched it. Worked a treat.
What's funny is that the day after installing the inserts a ball got stuck in the Goblin. I know this can still happen, even with the inserts, but I found it ironic that it happened so soon after installing them.
Removing the mechs completely is smart especially if you have a lot of plays on the game.
This gives you the opportunity to tighten the character heads and/or apply blue loctite to the mounting screws as they can come loose in play.
Also inspect the leaf switch guide, Its a clear plastic u-channel to keep the switch vertical during sideways hits.
Some people have reported that this is cracked or broken.
I had just removed all my mechs for inspection and didnt feel like doing it again, so I found an alternative method that worked for me.
Next on my agenda is to remove the ramp and replace the flaps with the upgraded ones.
Anyone have the Lo-down on how to adjust a lockdown bar do it latch properly?
The right catch will only grab after pushing down hard on the bar and the right one I can't seem to get to latch. The result is a wobbly feeling lockdown bar that makes me not want to nudge for fear of damaging the wood underneath.
I remember reading someone else fixing it but can't seem to find it.
Quoted from Jeekayjay:Anyone have the Lo-down on how to adjust a lockdown bar do it latch properly?
Two screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver. Turn them in and the lever that slides back and forth lowers, turn them up and that lever raises.
If in doubt, take off glass, lift playfield up and lean back. Put the lockdown bar on, and look at the mechanism to see if you need to go higher or lower.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Two screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver. Turn them in and the lever that slides back and forth lowers, turn them up and that lever raises.
If in doubt, take off glass, lift playfield up and lean back. Put the lockdown bar on, and look at the mechanism to see if you need to go higher or lower.
LTG : )
Thanks!
I had to open it up all the way to allow for maximum clearance and still have to push down fairly hard but she's firmly in place now!
With my newly installed fully functioning replacement book as well I'm ready to rock!
I received the fix for the glass being too narrow. Two long strips of material which looks like it goes into the glass channel. Is that all there is to it?
Quoted from VolunteerPin:I received the fix for the glass being too narrow. Two long strips of material which looks like it goes into the glass channel. Is that all there is to it?
Yeah, I used both pieces and it's really tight now. Maybe start with installing just one into the guide first. It's much better though now either way.
Like many others that have bummed their flipper strength up, but now have more ball flying off the wire form here is what I did. I took a piece of thin 2mm ish craft foam and cut a 3/4"x4" piece. Then I added some double sided tape to it. Then placed it on the left hand side of the ball guide under the rock that covers the Smaug diverter. It creates enough friction and slows the ball so its not flying off the ramp or bouncing off the mode post. I have had this on for about a week and its works great. I will try and post some pics if everyone would like to see it.
I've asked this on other threads to but is there a ramp flap fix and how do I go about getting it? Is there a simple repair I can do
Quoted from John1210:I've asked this on other threads to but is there a ramp flap fix and how do I go about getting it? Is there a simple repair I can do
Call The JJP tech line and ask.
Quoted from John1210:I've asked this on other threads to but is there a ramp flap fix and how do I go about getting it? Is there a simple repair I can do
There is no simple repair but with patience most people wont have too much trouble installing it.
There is a fix/upgrade however, and you can get it for free + shipping
It involves:
2 new spring steel ramp flaps
5 pop rivets (in case you dont have a tubular rivet squeezer or press)
5 backing washers
5 regular 1/8" x 5/32" nickle plated brass tubular rivets.
1 set of instructions
You will have to completely remove the ramp for a proper removal and installation of the kit.
Take pictures of each step you did, for re installation later
Also if you dont have the upper mylars for the character mechs you can order those for free as well. These are important to install.
open a support ticket here:
http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com:8081/helpdesk/WebObjects/Helpdesk.woa
Or call support:
732-364-9900 Ext 222
talk to Frank or Vic
Great thread... I received my update kit and thankfully I already have the newer left wireform, so that's one update done. (had to be the easiest one didn't it). The springs. I'm going to wait until the 1st one goes and I'll do them all. The mechs (beasts) insert seems like a decent job? I've had a few games with the ball getting trapped already.
One thing that I haven't seen mentioned here is the wire guides (see attach photo). I've not seen these on a pin before (although I'm new to pins) so they might be more common than I realise? Won't this pit the balls after a while running down and bouncing of these steel rails? The hobbit LE does seem to use lots of steel on the playfield.. I've thought about trying to put some spiral wire wrap around these rails and see hopefully it doesn't increases bounce too much.. not that I am concerned cause balls are cheap I suppose.
I've also noticed the two ramp flaps have started to lift up at the front, I've put some thick clear tape over them to help keep them flat but that won't last long. How does the fix mentioned above solve this problem?
Quoted from chriskuta:Great thread... I received my update kit and thankfully I already have the newer left wireform, so that's one update done. (had to be the easiest one didn't it). The springs. I'm going to wait until the 1st one goes and I'll do them all. The mechs (beasts) insert seems like a decent job? I've had a few games with the ball getting trapped already.
One thing that I haven't seen mentioned here is the wire guides (see attach photo). I've not seen these on a pin before (although I'm new to pins) so they might be more common than I realise? Won't this pit the balls after a while running down and bouncing of these steel rails? The hobbit LE does seem to use lots of steel on the playfield.. I've thought about trying to put some spiral wire wrap around these rails and see hopefully it doesn't increases bounce too much.. not that I am concerned cause balls are cheap I suppose.
I've also noticed the two ramp flaps have started to lift up at the front, I've put some thick clear tape over them to help keep them flat but that won't last long. How does the fix mentioned above solve this problem?
The wire guides are not too much of a problem just replace the balls every 500-1000 plays most modern games have them.
The ramp flap upgrade will solve the curling problem. Order one as listed above.
My goblin character mech is not dropping properly after being hit. Any ideas? He just inches his way back into place mainly from vibration.
Quoted from John1210:My goblin character mech is not dropping properly after being hit. Any ideas? He just inches his way back into place mainly from vibration.
Check it front, back, left, right. It is binding on something. You can loosen the screws holding the whole assembly to the playfield and line it up better.
LTG : )
Quoted from John1210:My goblin character mech is not dropping properly after being hit. Any ideas? He just inches his way back into place mainly from vibration.
I have had to dissasemble my Orc mech and reassemble it. The parts in my Orc mech was not assembled "straight" so to speak. Therefore there was a little binding inside both the coil sleeve and the guide shaft.
Quoted from John1210:My goblin character mech is not dropping properly after being hit. Any ideas? He just inches his way back into place mainly from vibration.
When the mechs pause while dropping or drop very slowly its possibly a loose wire interfering with the movement or a bent backplate in the mech.
The backplate is the rear part of the black metal assembly that slides up and down within the lower part under the playfield (silver part of the assembly).
In a lot of cases it is bent slightly forward (towards the front of the game), on a NIB game I think it might happen in shipping.
Its made of a fairly soft steel and can be bent back into shape.
With the game turned off and the playfield pulled out to its furthest maintenance position, raise and lower the mech that is binding.
You will find that it feels like its rubbing slightly inside the channel.
Manually raise the mech.
Grasp the black metal part of the mech while its pulled out, dont cut your self on the trap door as they are sharp (maybe put a rag over it), carefully push it backwards 1/32" at a time until it frees up, or pull it forwards depending on how its binding.
Test it in device tests to make sure it works properly, re-adjust as necessary.
The mechs can get slightly bent forwards over time by the balls hammering the rear of the mech also.
Thanks for that much appreciated. Ive pushed the mech foward and its smoother now. Still seems like its rubbing or binding but he drops ok now.
Quoted from John1210:Thanks for that much appreciated. Ive pushed the mech foward and its smoother now. Still seems like its rubbing or binding but he drops ok now.
You might have to fiddle with it a little to get it just right.
Try pushing it a tiny bit more. If its better then its all good, if its worse bend it back.
You will know when its exactly right, as it will drop like a rock with no binding at all.
Quoted from Jeekayjay:Thanks!
I had to open it up all the way to allow for maximum clearance and still have to push down fairly hard but she's firmly in place now!
With my newly installed fully functioning replacement book as well I'm ready to rock!
It's buried in the thread somewhere - remove the 2 screws that hold the lockdown bar assembly to the front of the cabinet and then loosen the 3 nuts. There is some play in the mounting of the lowdown bar assembly with the nuts loosened. Put the top of the lockdown bar assembly flush with the top edge of the cab and retighten the nuts. The screws likely won't go back into the existing holes and can be left off.
That's what I had to do with mine the first time I took the lockbar off, and several others have had the same issue.
Hey guys! Brand new member of The Hobbit club! Got my Smaug Gold Special Edition # 312 this morning. So setup and everything went great but I am having a few minor issues. First, even though I have attract sound and music set to ON, the game does not do either. Second, when I go to diagnostics and go to coil tests. Nothing fires. I cant raise or lower drop targets or beasts, but when I go into the game, everything works fine....I do want to raise the beasts and hold them up to see if there are any burs under the metal. Third, can someone please upload a photo of their coil strength settings for the entire menu, I factory reset to try to get the tests to work and then it changed all the preadjusted powers. I have my game set to 6.8/7.0 so anyone that could post a photo of the strengths of each flipper, bumper, shot, trough, etc. THANK YOU! I am so excited. This game came with all the fixes installed and looks stunning! Just need it dialed in and to figure out those few things.
Sean
For the coil test make sure to pull the white high voltage button out inside the coin door.
Grats on your game.
Quoted from Skyemont:Is code 1.35 out. Jack said it's done and available this weekend.
I heard the update is the "final Hobbit code update", well more bug fixes / minor additions later. Supposedly it's version 1.9, should be a huge update! Still waiting for it to be posted though, was supposed to be posted online Thursday night...
Quoted from sebseb12:who played the Code 1.9?
What's New?
nobody knows, we are all here waiting for it to drop. Wistlessly waiting in Wauwatosa.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The wire guides are not too much of a problem just replace the balls every 500-1000 plays most modern games have them.
The ramp flap upgrade will solve the curling problem. Order one as listed above.
Is that normal?
I have 800+ plays on my Hobbit (have had none of the ramp/flaps/beasts/drops issues in this thread) and the balls still look like new. Should they be replaced anyway or just when they obviously need it?
Quoted from Metalzoic:Is that normal?
I have 800+ plays on my Hobbit (have had none of the ramp/flaps/beasts/drops issues in this thread) and the balls still look like new. Should they be replaced anyway or just when they obviously need it?
Look at your (pin)balls with a strong magnifying glass. Do they'll still look "like new"?
Does anyone else's kickback sometimes fire so weakly it barely makes it past the left slingshot when used at full strength? It is fine if an actual kickback is occurring, but if the ball is stopped and the power meter appears on the screen it is totally weak 80% of the time even at full power. Other times, full power will get the ball to go straight into the right outlane instead of up towards the man targets.
Quoted from Metalzoic:Is that normal?
I have 800+ plays on my Hobbit (have had none of the ramp/flaps/beasts/drops issues in this thread) and the balls still look like new. Should they be replaced anyway or just when they obviously need it?
If its obvious that the balls need to be changed, its way too late.
I think the idea, since pinballs are cheap, is to keep them new to avoid wear on the PF.
If you use a microscope you will see all sorts of dents and rough spots on a pinball after 500 plays.
If you can, wax the pinballs with 100% carnauba, when you clean the game. It puts a temporary coating on the balls and can make them more smooth.
Quoted from goldant:Does anyone else's kickback sometimes fire so weakly it barely makes it past the left slingshot when used at full strength? It is fine if an actual kickback is occurring, but if the ball is stopped and the power meter appears on the screen it is totally weak 80% of the time even at full power. Other times, full power will get the ball to go straight into the right outlane instead of up towards the man targets.
The kickback has a randomizer in the code to make it harder or easier to make the upper right flipper.
You can make it easier in the settings.
The strength is also stronger or weaker depending on how many switches are hit to load the windlance.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The kickback has a randomizer in the code to make it harder or easier to make the upper right flipper.
You can make it easier in the settings.
The strength is also stronger or weaker depending on how many switches are hit to load the windlance.
WOW, thanks for that info! I thought my kickback strength was a mech issue, I didn't know it gets stronger based on switch hits. Which switches?
My hobbit does have a PF protector installed and does have the issue that the ball jumps when it roles over the beast flaps.
Does anyone else have this problem with jumping balls over the beast-flaps (see video at about 2 Sec.)
Quoted from pinballinreno:The kickback has a randomizer in the code to make it harder or easier to make the upper right flipper.
You can make it easier in the settings.
The strength is also stronger or weaker depending on how many switches are hit to load the windlance.
Woah woah woah, what?! I've taken the apron off and tried to adjust the kickback in the past...etc to fix this problem, I had no idea. Thank you so much for sharing this. Is there anyway to tell how much strength the windlance currently has...etc? Or to tell how built up the windlance is?
Eliottk that's a very funny video. Sorry I laughed for 5 minutes. My hobbit does not do this at all. The only issue I have is my small lcd screen has a window book casing that keeps coming off.
Quoted from eliottk:Hi, yes it's funny to watch it in slowmo and the sound...
Do you have a PF protector installed? Maybe this causes the jump of the ball? Any idea to solve this problem?
I have a playfield protector and mine doesn't do that at all.
I don't think it would be the protector causing it anyway since the flap will sit flush to the protector the same as it would if it were resting on the playfield itself.
Maybe there is just a tiny bend or lip on that flap causing it.
Quoted from eliottk:My hobbit does have a PF protector installed and does have the issue that the ball jumps when it roles over the beast flaps.
Does anyone else have this problem with jumping balls over the beast-flaps (see video at about 2 Sec.)
» YouTube video
Mine can do this just after I have waxed the playfield and/or the pinballs. I have no playfieldprotector. I have removed the burrs on the beastflaps and they are not bent. I think it happens when the balls slide (almost backspins) on impact with the flaps.
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