(Topic ID: 158237)

Hobbit setup, tweaks and adjustments

By pinballinreno

5 years ago


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  • 626 posts
  • 119 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by paulbaptise
  • Topic is favorited by 91 Pinsiders

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There are 626 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.
#601 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I've had Hobbit for about a week now and I have to say that I am really digging it. Theme integration is phenomenal!
One "issue" I am having is the left ramp is not clean - it clunks around at the top and only makes it around the ramp about 75% of the time. It is almost never smooth and the ball always slows down since it clunks against the edge of the inside metal wall.
After some investigation, it appears the ball travels around the far edge of the left ramp then banks off the center/back of the assembly and into the inside wall of the right entrance (kinda hard to put into words).
Is this common on Hobbit? My right ramp is smooth as butter. The whole assembly appears to be in normal condition with no cracked weldments...

Should be smooth with a clean shot. How are your ramp flaps? If not the dark blued spring steel then you probably should replace. JJP has an upgrade kit available. The original shiny stainless steel flaps will curl up eventually causing the ball to hop at the ramp entrance.

#602 3 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

More
Should be smooth with a clean shot. How are your ramp flaps? If not the dark blued spring steel then you probably should replace. JJP has an upgrade kit available. The original shiny stainless steel flaps will curl up eventually causing the ball to hop at the ramp entrance.

Thanks for the tips. Definitely not flipper strength, I’ve tried 15-28 - doesn’t make a difference and flaps are great (dk spring steel). Testing the ramp by hand produces same slop on left ramp, but smooth on right.

I 3D printed a small wedge and used metal duct tape to slightly redirect the ball and that works pretty good. A slight redesign and I think I can get it perfect.

I have to assume this ramp assembly was manufactured slightly out of spec, hmmmm.

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#603 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

More
Thanks for the tips. Definitely not flipper strength, I’ve tried 15-28 - doesn’t make a difference and flaps are great (dk spring steel). Testing the ramp by hand produces same slop on left ramp, but smooth on right.
I 3D printed a small wedge and used metal duct tape to slightly redirect the ball and that works pretty good. A slight redesign and I think I can get it perfect.
I have to assume this ramp assembly was manufactured slightly out of spec, hmmmm.

Absolutely contact jjp about this it's possible your ramp is out of spec.

#604 3 years ago

I found the brightness/contrast controls for the head monitor, but is there any way to adjust the book monitor? Mine's looking pretty washed out.

#605 3 years ago
Quoted from AbeVigoda:

I found the brightness/contrast controls for the head monitor, but is there any way to adjust the book monitor? Mine's looking pretty washed out.

Maybe open a ticket or check the cables to it on both ends.

#606 3 years ago

Does anyone know where to get soft white LEDs for the head above the monitor?

Mine has bright white and the art is washed out.

#607 3 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Does anyone know where to get soft white LEDs for the head above the monitor?
Mine has bright white and the art is washed out.

Most of us have applied a filter over the LED strip in the backbox
.
Either a 1/4 CTO stage gel sheet in 2 layers to equal 1/2 CTO (available in most arts and crafts or lighting stores) or online at a few places:

amazon.com link »

Or use 1/2 CTO stage gel:

amazon.com link »

Cut a 20 to 24" length 4" or so wide strip. Tape it with 1" segments of 1" gorilla tape to the backbox over the light with the light being somewhat centered under the film.
You only have to hang it over the LED strip, so you dont have to tape the bottom or side edges.

This will give you the right color that matches the screen and kill off all the blue from the LED.

Its a 10 min reversible fix (but no one will ever go back the the ugly colors).

Adding this filter seems a little redneck, but it comes out really perfect.

#608 3 years ago

im still having a issue with air balls off the lock roll overs. We adjusted them to register properly now. But the ramp shots are still a problem. Makes hitting in the right goffer hole a pita.

Other than that tho. Im Still loving the game and everything plays pretty well.

#609 3 years ago

For those of you who increased your game pitch to 7 degrees, did you upgrade your shooter rod spring?

Lately, I can no longer hit the drop targets under Smaug off the plunge. I know the spring was intentionally weak from the factory.

#610 3 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

For those of you who increased your game pitch to 7 degrees, did you upgrade your shooter rod spring?
Lately, I can no longer hit the drop targets under Smaug off the plunge. I know the spring was intentionally weak from the factory.

I'm at 7.2 degrees using the factory spring. Try adding a little bit of dry lube to the shooter rod. You can also stretch the spring and see if that helps. But really once in awhile a little dry lube on the shooter Rod helps a lot. Also make sure the shooter Rod isn't dragging on Anything.

#611 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm at 7.2 degrees using the factory spring. Try adding a little bit of dry lube to the shooter rod. You can also stretch the spring and see if that helps. But really once in awhile a little dry lube on the shooter Rod helps a lot. Also make sure the shooter Rod isn't dragging on Anything.

Dry lube? Like powdered graphite?

#613 3 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Dry lube? Like powdered graphite?

That might conduct electricity. I wouldn't use that in a game. If it gets into other stuff, you might have weird phantom problems going on.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : Learned this from EM days many years ago when my Father's arcade had a .22 caliber rifle range. Bullets were graphite tipped. Turned to dust on impact. And go into the games.

#614 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

That might conduct electricity. I wouldn't use that in a game. If it gets into other stuff, you might have weird phantom problems going on.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : Learned this from EM days many years ago when my Father's arcade had a .22 caliber rifle range. Bullets were graphite tipped. Turned to dust on impact. And go into the games.

Yes, graphite bad, flammable in some circumstances.

Once dry lube is fairly safe.

Pull out the shooter and spray a little on the rod, actuate it a bit, it dries fast.

Put a rag under it, or hold it out with a rag while spraying so as not to make a mess on the floor.

#615 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Your behavior is not normal. What are your flippers set at left and right and what is the pitch of the Playfield with the glass off.

aaahhh .... his behavior seems perfectly normal. (That reminds me of a young lady whose last name was Normal. I dated her and the first three times we saw one another, I was pretty drunk and never heard nor learned her name. So one day she hands me her wallet for a trip to the store and I decided to take a quick peek at her license. I'd be lying if I didn't say my immediate reaction was shock. I was spooked and in a flash - totally over her. Decided right then to drop her keys and drive away to the store. I left, but did not stop at the store. I did not stop when crossing state lines. I did not stop until my car was almost out of gas, and I pulled off in Atlanta to began a new life. I blocked her access to me and have been happily prospering for the past twenty years. So what was it that triggered us to separate? Learning her name was Abby, that was something I could not abide. But back to the regular programming...

PinballCharlie Check your ramp flaps. Is the right one flush against the playfield and the left one bowing up and away from the playfield?

#616 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Most of us have applied a filter over the LED strip in the backbox
.
Either a 1/4 CTO stage gel sheet in 2 layers to equal 1/2 CTO (available in most arts and crafts or lighting stores) or online at a few places:
amazon.com link »
Or use 1/2 CTO stage gel:
amazon.com link »
Cut a 20 to 24" length 4" or so wide strip. Tape it with 1" segments of 1" gorilla tape to the backbox over the light with the light being somewhat centered under the film.
You only have to hang it over the LED strip, so you dont have to tape the bottom or side edges.
This will give you the right color that matches the screen and kill off all the blue from the LED.
Its a 10 min reversible fix (but no one will ever go back the the ugly colors).
Adding this filter seems a little redneck, but it comes out really perfect.

Does anyone have a picture of the back box with this done .

3 weeks later
#617 3 years ago

In the machine in my area, The ball trough is weak at the game itself (it works properly in the test mode, but not In-game). I tried to change its strength but I didn't find any setting related to this. Can someone help me?

#618 3 years ago
Quoted from gamefun29:

In the machine in my area, The ball trough is weak at the game itself (it works properly in the test mode, but not In-game). I tried to change its strength but I didn't find any setting related to this. Can someone help me?

The ball plunger in the trough has a setting in the coil settings adjustments. Are you sure that it is weak or does the tab above the ball launcher need to be opened up a little bit under the apron. Sometimes the guide tab causes balls to fall back into the hole instead of rolling into the shooter Lane.

Remove the apron and bend the silver metal tab open about an eighth of an inch more and see how it works

#619 3 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Does anyone have a picture of the back box with this done .

Just apply the filter.

Make it 4-5 in tall and wide enough to cover the LED strip.

You'll be amazed at the difference. 1/2 CTO seems to be the correct filtering.

#620 3 years ago
Quoted from gamefun29:

Can someone help me?

Settings - Coil - Trough VUK - first one.

LTG : )

#621 3 years ago

dupe

2 years later
#622 11 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Who has gotten these from JJP?

[quoted image]

Does anyone has the instructions for installing these for the beast mechs? I've asked JJP and no one seems to have them.

#623 11 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Does anyone has the instructions for installing these for the beast mechs? I've asked JJP and no one seems to have them.

They come standard on later editions of the game.

The beast spacers are pretty easy to install with the right tools:

I have 2 posts in this and one is a key post.

A long 1/4" nut driver, a long extension, for the screw gun, a little titebond for the screws so they dont vibrate out, a little spacer to hold the mech up if you dont want to remove it ( i just put a ratchet handle in the cages other than removing the mechs).

I did all 4 of them in 8 mins.

#624 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

They come standard on later editions of the game.
The beast spacers are pretty easy to install with the right tools:
I have 2 posts in this and one is a key post.
A long 1/4" nut driver, a long extension, for the screw gun, a little titebond for the screws so they dont vibrate out, a little spacer to hold the mech up if you dont want to remove it ( i just put a ratchet handle in the cages other than removing the mechs).
I did all 4 of them in 8 mins.

Then come over and do mine! I'll bet you $1000.00 you won't do it in 8 min! We talked about this. Some machines do not have the clearance. Or you had thinner stops. But something is not the same between us. I don't need them and never did install them after seeing what a PITA is was going to be.

#625 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Then come over and do mine! I'll bet you $1000.00 you won't do it in 8 min! We talked about this. Some machines do not have the clearance. Or you had thinner stops. But something is not the same between us. I don't need them and never did install them after seeing what a PITA is was going to be.

I dont doubt you at all, some games are slightly out of spec (or dead on spec?), but they play good.
In fact a lot of games dont need the spacer at all.

Mine did, Usually the first shot at the orc locked the ball in solid, game over.

Lol, I didnt even read the instructions that came with mine...

I just held them firmly against the edge of the cut-outs and screwed them in.

Removing the beast mechs (if you want to) is simple enough.

Unplug, remove the single nut at the bottom and slide them out from the top. this only takes a couple minutes.
(I have had to remove them a couple times to tighten the beast head screws, now they are on with loctite)

Then assess/address any clearance issues you might have.

The spacers can be dremeled if they are too tight after they are installed, I imagine, if you need them at all.

But, not having seen yours, I also imagine anything can happen... Its pinball.

Now, changing out the terrible silver, curling ramp flaps, however, was a chore...

#626 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

They come standard on later editions of the game.
The beast spacers are pretty easy to install with the right tools:
I have 2 posts in this and one is a key post.
A long 1/4" nut driver, a long extension, for the screw gun, a little titebond for the screws so they dont vibrate out, a little spacer to hold the mech up if you dont want to remove it ( i just put a ratchet handle in the cages other than removing the mechs).
I did all 4 of them in 8 mins.

I looked through this thread for images on them being installed. Looking at it I can't tell exactly where it needs to go.
Both screws came out of my spider mech so wanted to add these at the same time.

Thanks the help!!

There are 626 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.

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