(Topic ID: 158237)
Linked Games
The Hobbit
Jersey Jack, 2016
Topic Gallery
Kernersville, NC
Quoted from PinMonk:The hangars on the one I maintained actually sagged over time. I think the metal is too soft for such a heavy playfield. I had to adjust it twice in 6 months to bring the PF up a couple mm and relieve pressure on the back of the start button and/or shooter rod/kicker issues.
I wonder if anyone sells a heavier grade metal for the brackets?
Quoted from Goronic:I wonder if anyone sells a heavier grade metal for the brackets?
No necessarily a heavier grade but maybe a hardened version.
Or maybe heat them up to red glowing hot and quench them in used motor oil a couple of times.
1 month later
Edmonton, AB
Quoted from wolv3:What kind of adjustment do I make so the ball doesn't spin out from the right wireform into the outlane?
Mine did that at first but just stopped on it's own. May have stopped when I waxed it the first time.
Quoted from wolv3:What kind of adjustment do I make so the ball doesn't spin out from the right wireform into the outlane?
You have to bend the wireform...specifically the ring where the ball drops through: bend it up a bit. That will put top spin on the ball and minimize the side spin it builds up. Mine did this early on and I never saw it again after tweaking that wireform.
I just got my first pinball machine and it is a Hobbit LE. I have read online about leveling the machine and I think I have the left and right correct but I am not sure about the front to back. Using an app on the iPhone (see picture) it appears that the angle is 13.1 degrees, which I believe it too high but perhaps it is because I am measure from the glass not the playfield.
Is there anyway you could tell if my machine is basically correct by viewing the pictures?
Thanks
Quoted from psexton:Is there anyway you could tell if my machine is basically correct by viewing the pictures?
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/iphone2/index.html
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/iphone/index.html
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html
LTG : )
Quoted from psexton:I just got my first pinball machine and it is a Hobbit LE. I have read online about leveling the machine and I think I have the left and right correct but I am not sure about the front to back. Using an app on the iPhone (see picture) it appears that the angle is 13.1 degrees, which I believe it too high but perhaps it is because I am measure from the glass not the playfield.
Is there anyway you could tell if my machine is basically correct by viewing the pictures?
Thanks
Just by looking at the pictures I am not sure why you have the front legs adjusted so high? I keep the front legs almost all the way retracted and then just adjust a little to get left and right level. Definitely take the glass off for a proper reading. Then play the machine to see if you like the way it plays, adjust more if needed.
Quoted from psexton:I just got my first pinball machine and it is a Hobbit LE. I have read online about leveling the machine and I think I have the left and right correct but I am not sure about the front to back. Using an app on the iPhone (see picture) it appears that the angle is 13.1 degrees, which I believe it too high but perhaps it is because I am measure from the glass not the playfield.
Is there anyway you could tell if my machine is basically correct by viewing the pictures?
Thanks
You need to re-calibrate your phone via the button in the app. There is no way in hell that machine is on 13 degrees with the front feet wound so far out. It would be closer to 5 or less which would make the game very slow and floaty.
Quoted from koops:You need to re-calibrate your phone via the button in the app. There is no way in hell that machine is on 13 degrees with the front feet wound so far out. It would be closer to 5 or less which would make the game very slow and floaty.
Put the level on the PF not the glass. Should be between 6 and 8 degrees. 13 could only be the glass.
I put my front all the way in (down), and the back legs almost all the way up (about 1.5 inches of threads exposed).
Back levelers:
Easier is about 1 inch of threads showing ~ 7 degrees PF pitch
Mine at 1.5 inches of thread ~ 7.5 degrees
hardest is 2 inches of threads ~ 8 degrees
Quoted from wolv3:What kind of adjustment do I make so the ball doesn't spin out from the right wireform into the outlane?
Quoted from Pimp77:You have to bend the wireform...specifically the ring where the ball drops through: bend it up a bit. That will put top spin on the ball and minimize the side spin it builds up. Mine did this early on and I never saw it again after tweaking that wireform.
I just used a big nut driver through the lower loop and bent it backwards a bit until the handle touched the wireform.
Basically bent the loop up about 3/16" to 1/4". This will spin the ball laterally instead of up and out of the lane guide. Seems to work very well and is a simple tweak.
I did this on both wireforms as the ball can also spin out of the left one too.
Its very annoying when it happens.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I just used a big nut driver through the lower loop and bent it backwards a bit until the handle touched the wireform.
Basically bent the loop up about 3/16" to 1/4". This will spin the ball laterally instead of up and out of the lane guide. Seems to work very well and is a simple tweak.
I did this on both wireforms as the ball can also spin out of the left one too.
Its very annoying when it happens.
Thanks I'll try it. I tried to adjust it last weekend but found it was hard to move the bottom part of the wireform.
1 week later
Quoted from Bendit:I man-handled mine too this weekend, and I was unsuccessful at fixing the problem. Nothing more frustrating than the ball flying in the outlane from that wireform. Jeez.
Bend the lower loop up further.
Jam a nut driver in the hole and bend it back up until the ball no longer spins out. (read above)
Works every time.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Bend the lower loop up further.
"Up" means towards where? Towards the back wall if I am standing in front of the machine?
Quoted from Bendit:"Up" means towards where? Towards the back wall if I am standing in front of the machine?
Towards the ceiling. Bend the end of the wireform (the loop) up towards the ceiling.
Quoted from Pimp77:Towards the ceiling. Bend the end of the wireform (the loop) up towards the ceiling.
Roger that. Thanks. Mine is angled to the right a little. That's what I tried to unbend.
Quoted from Spencer:Any thoughts before I open a ticket?
Look it over. Anything else not working ? Check fuse for it. Broken wire at coil, or along the way to next coil ? Shooter lane switch working ?
LTG : )
3 weeks later
The other day the upper flipper stopped retracting all the way. I lifted the playfield and it seems like it might be rubbing on the inside of the coil. I took a look at the lower flippers and they seem much more smooth. The spring is still on it as well. Any ideas on what to look for?
Quoted from wolv3:Any ideas on what to look for?
Check if the pawl slipped on the flipper shaft. Loosen it, realign it. Tighten it real good.
LTG : )
Quoted from wolv3:The other day the upper flipper stopped retracting all the way. I lifted the playfield and it seems like it might be rubbing on the inside of the coil. I took a look at the lower flippers and they seem much more smooth. The spring is still on it as well. Any ideas on what to look for?
Quoted from LTG:Check if the pawl slipped on the flipper shaft. Loosen it, realign it. Tighten it real good.
LTG : )
Also maybe pull off the coil stop and look at the coil sleeve and check the condition of the plunger.
It might just be full of black dust causing it to jam up, or the coil sleeve is wearing abnormally due to dust and is not smooth.
Quoted from wolv3:What's the best way to clean the sleeve? I noticed that there seems to be a bit of wear on the sleeve is this normal.
I clean them with iso alcohol and q-tips but if there's wear I'd swap it out for a new one
Quoted from wolv3:For the sleeves is it one size fits all?
No. They are different lengths. You'll have to measure it if you don't have a part number.
or
Quoted from wolv3:Thanks, that's how I cleaned them out just wanted another opinion. For the sleeves is it one size fits all?
There are different sized sleeves for different sized coils. Definitely make sure you are getting the right one. http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/The-Hobbit-Parts/Sleeve-Filpper-Inner.html
3 weeks later
Quoted from Aflacjack:Ground loop isolator eliminated the noise. Thanks for the info
I did the same thing and it solved all of my audio problems.
Curiously my WOZ had one installed from the factory, I wonder why they didnt put one in the Hobbit?
5 months later
Just brought a Smaug Edition home tonight, my first pin manufactured in the 21st century! The game is HOU, has approximately 1100 plays, and is in like new condition. I immediately set it up in my game room and put 15-20 games on it without issue. By the end of the ~20th game, I had a few beers in me, and decided to start messing with the elaborate JJ game-settings and menus. Since I didn't know what had been changed by the previous owner, I found the "factory reset" option and went for it without hesitation. My slightly impaired thinking was that it would be nice to start fresh, as Jack intended it, and go from there.
Immediately after the reset, I started another game and the ball release coil didn't have enough power to push the ball into the trough, and kept repeatedly cycling. Then Gandoff started yelling at me to get on with it! I opened the coin door and manually pushed the ball out with the coil plunger, and the game played just fine. After that ball drained, the ball release coil would start cycling again and seemingly did not have enough umph to push ball number two into the trough.
Any known issues, and/or fixes for this?
In my mind, and given the circumstances, this "issue" has to be related to the reset I performed. The new software update was previously installed; however, I didn't look to see if the reset wiped it.
Any thoughts/input is appreciated.
Quoted from PSUTownie:I found the "factory reset" option and went for it without hesitation...
It was probably not the best idea to zap all those settings but you are where you are now. There is a menu in the settings screen for adjusting coil power. You'll have to adjust those numbers on each coil that's not adjusted properly. Higher numbers for more power. If the trough or a VUK isn't giving you the ball, it needs more coil power.
You can adjust every coil in the game and it can greatly change the feel of the game. The factory settings do not always work perfectly given each game and each environment is slightly different.
Quoted from PSUTownie:Just brought a Smaug Edition home tonight, my first pin manufactured in the 21st century! The game is HOU, has approximately 1100 plays, and is in like new condition. I immediately set it up in my game room and put 15-20 games on it without issue. By the end of the ~20th game, I had a few beers in me, and decided to start messing with the elaborate JJ game-settings and menus. Since I didn't know what had been changed by the previous owner, I found the "factory reset" option and went for it without hesitation. My slightly impaired thinking was that it would be nice to start fresh, as Jack intended it, and go from there.
Immediately after the reset, I started another game and the ball release coil didn't have enough power to push the ball into the trough, and kept repeatedly cycling. Then Gandoff started yelling at me to get on with it! I opened the coin door and manually pushed the ball out with the coil plunger, and the game played just fine. After that ball drained, the ball release coil would start cycling again and seemingly did not have enough umph to push ball number two into the trough.
Any known issues, and/or fixes for this?
In my mind, and given the circumstances, this "issue" has to be related to the reset I performed. The new software update was previously installed; however, I didn't look to see if the reset wiped it.
Any thoughts/input is appreciated.
Don’t sweat it, just up the ball trough coil setting and keep testing and adjusting and you will be back in business
Quoted from Goronic:Don’t sweat it, just up the ball trough coil setting and keep testing and adjusting and you will be back in business
That's all it was, thanks. I adjusted the power on the trough coil to "15" and it's back playing like a champ. I wasn't aware you could individually adjust power to certain functions on these games, that's a pretty neat concept.
With that, and knowing now that I am back to "factory", are there any other adjustments others have found to be "must-do's" to dial this title in?
Quoted from PSUTownie:That's all it was, thanks. I adjusted the power on the trough coil to "15" and it's back playing like a champ. I wasn't aware you could individually adjust power to certain functions on these games, that's a pretty neat concept.
With that, and knowing now that I am back to "factory", are there any other adjustments others have found to be "must-do's" to dial this title in?
- remove the centre post
- open up the outlanes
- set pf pitch to 7 degrees; you may need to up the flipper strength as a result
I was wondering how folks were adjusting the windlance/kickback so that it feeds the upper flipper. My game regularly sends the ball to the right VUK hole which interrupts the flow a bit. Is it a matter of just bending the metal fence or is there a strength adjustment? Right now the fence exit is contacting the rubber bumper just next to it. If it is bent out more, could it eventually damage the ball due to a hard edge there? I didn't find a coil adjustment on the menu...
Thanks!
Quoted from Hammerhead:- remove the centre post
- open up the outlanes
- set pf pitch to 7 degrees; you may need to up the flipper strength as a result
I didn't do the first 2, as me and the family are very casual pinball players - and we find Hobbit hard enough as it is.
2 months later
A long story but I'm finally looking at setting my Hobbit up properly - purchased new 2 years ago but it's sat in the middle of the lounge since then unplugged as I had a few issues and needed parts - they arrived but I never had the opportunity to do the work.
Anyway, mine was one of the machines that left the factory without mylar at the back of the trolls, looking at the pieces one side of the mylar is slightly longer - I have two longer on the left and two longer on the right, which trolls do they go on?
I've filed down the burrs on the flaps, one was quite bad luckily on a front corner. Is the troll ball hangup kit worth fitting? It looks like a lot of work - got the early update kit too.
Quoted from system11:I've filed down the burrs on the flaps, one was quite bad luckily on a front corner. Is the troll ball hangup kit worth fitting? It looks like a lot of work
I have a write up earlier on, it took me about 10 mins to install the beast spacers.
Others took more time, but if you have a 6" 1|4" drive extension and a magnetic bit for a screw gun or a long 1|4" nut driver they can be installed without disassembly. The magnetic screw gun worked best for me.
The mylars go on the top each beast cut out. position them with a little soapy water until they fit right with no overlap.
To remove the beasts remove the retaining stop nut on the bottom of each one, unplug the switch and pull the complete sliding assembly out from the top.
Once the mechs are removed, save some grief down the road and put blue loctite on the threads of the screws that hold the heads on.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The mylars go on the top each beast cut out. position them with a little soapy water until they fit right with no overlap.
They seem to be specific left/right though and I can't tell which is correct as the lower mylars seem the same height on each side. The rear ones are like a U shape with one side longer than the other. I've been looking for photos but haven't got lucky yet finding an extreme closeup on a machine with them fitted.
Quoted from system11:They seem to be specific left/right though and I can't tell which is correct as the lower mylars seem the same height on each side. The rear ones are like a U shape with one side longer than the other. I've been looking for photos but haven't got lucky yet finding an extreme closeup on a machine with them fitted.
I had the same problem. I cut 2 of them close to the lines and positioned them on the playfield to see what was going on before sticking them down.
Yes there's a left and right. I had to wear magnifiers and put a bright light over the game to see what was going on.
The fit closely to the upper edge of the cut-out and the fingers? dont overlap when properly applied.
Look at it closely you will figure it out. If you ruin them, contact JJP for more. they are free.
Are there any USB sticks guaranteed to work with this? I have functional 4GB models for use with my WOZ, but Hobbit needs at least an 8GB. So far I've tried:
Lexar 16gb (formatted FAT32; flashes a message about "missing operating system" on boot despite numerous attempts to re-partition / format / copy).
Samsung 64gb (formatted to 16gb FAT32; just ignores it entirely, also tried 64gb exFAT).
Seagate 12gb (ancient micro hard disk from when "big" USB sticks were really expensive; formatted FAT32; this works!)
And that's all I have >4GB. Yes, the old Seagate actually works, but the thing is MASSIVELY slow. USB 1.0 speeds. So I'd really like to get something new, that actually works.
Quoted from Sunfox:Are there any USB sticks guaranteed to work with this? I have functional 4GB models for use with my WOZ, but Hobbit needs at least an 8GB. So far I've tried:
Lexar 16gb (formatted FAT32; flashes a message about "missing operating system" on boot despite numerous attempts to re-partition / format / copy).
Samsung 64gb (formatted to 16gb FAT32; just ignores it entirely, also tried 64gb exFAT).
Seagate 12gb (ancient micro hard disk from when "big" USB sticks were really expensive; formatted FAT32; this works!)
And that's all I have >4GB. Yes, the old Seagate actually works, but the thing is MASSIVELY slow. USB 1.0 speeds. So I'd really like to get something new, that actually works.
Kingston drives for great and are inexpensive I havent had one fail to work yet.
I've had Hobbit for about a week now and I have to say that I am really digging it. Theme integration is phenomenal!
One "issue" I am having is the left ramp is not clean - it clunks around at the top and only makes it around the ramp about 75% of the time. It is almost never smooth and the ball always slows down since it clunks against the edge of the inside metal wall.
After some investigation, it appears the ball travels around the far edge of the left ramp then banks off the center/back of the assembly and into the inside wall of the right entrance (kinda hard to put into words).
Is this common on Hobbit? My right ramp is smooth as butter. The whole assembly appears to be in normal condition with no cracked weldments...
Quoted from PinballCharlie:I've had Hobbit for about a week now and I have to say that I am really digging it. Theme integration is phenomenal!
One "issue" I am having is the left ramp is not clean - it clunks around at the top and only makes it around the ramp about 75% of the time. It is almost never smooth and the ball always slows down since it clunks against the edge of the inside metal wall.
After some investigation, it appears the ball travels around the far edge of the left ramp then banks off the center/back of the assembly and into the inside wall of the right entrance (kinda hard to put into words).
Is this common on Hobbit? My right ramp is smooth as butter. The whole assembly appears to be in normal condition with no cracked weldments...
Your behavior is not normal. What are your flippers set at left and right and what is the pitch of the Playfield with the glass off.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
