Hobbit setup, tweaks and adjustments

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By pinballinreno

12 months ago


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  • Latest reply 1 month ago by elf70

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There are 542 posts in topic. You are on page 11 of 11.
#501 3 months ago

My beast-mechs seem a little out of alignment. When the closed the upper trap doors don't lay flush, causing some air balls. What's the best way to adjust how they lay when closed?

#502 3 months ago
Quoted from IceFang:

Are you referring to the area shown below? If so, that was the very first issue I addressed on my machine. See below for my solution... I had to do both fixes on my machine, and the ball now JUST BARELY clears the post... Hopefully it works for you, too!

Not on this machine. Even with the tie moved and the hex oriented like you showed, the ball still doesn't clear the post.

#503 3 months ago
Quoted from xbloodgreenx:

My beast-mechs seem a little out of alignment. When the closed the upper trap doors don't lay flush, causing some air balls. What's the best way to adjust how they lay when closed?

They should be only so flush that it is quite difficult to get a finger under to lift manually as they aren't actually recessed.

Push down on the edges. Do they move lower or are they already touching the playfield? If any of the corners are up then i'd agree you have an issue.

Beast mechs should be hanging by the door slightly. The small flap springs in the top should be slightly extended under the weight of the beast. This gives it a nice seal.

If they aren't check the rubber stopper below them. Perhaps it is too high. Wind them down a little then manually operate the mech and see if its better.

#504 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Not on this machine. Even with the tie moved and the hex oriented like you showed, the ball still doesn't clear the post.

On some games you might have to reshape the hex post by grinding it with a dremel or sanding it down.
Another option is to replace it with a narrower post.

You only need a very small clearance for the ball to pass.

If it were my game I would carve the post just enough for the ball to pass with a dremel or chuck it into a drill press and hit it with a file, and then polish it.

#505 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Keith is working on the sound popping.

got the filter and it took care of the sounds on my game.

1 week later
#506 84 days ago

Finally got around to adding the Beast mech fixes and newer springs for the drop targets to my game today.

Note that may help others.

I noticed that 3 of the 4 beast mechs had a zip tie that would result in the connection portion of the zip tie smashing into the plastic beast mech fix and slightly preventing the mech from clearning all the way. Overtime it's possible that the zip tie would break and result in the wires being snapped. I just clipped the existing zip ties and replaced it with a new one the opposite way.

20170128_151224 (resized).jpg
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#507 84 days ago

Notes regarding lose beast mech heads.

A few months ago I had one of the beast mech heads on my game come lose and nearly fall off. I fixed it but then noticed while performing the beast mech fix (plastic spacers from JJP update kit) today that nearly all of the screws holding the figure heads were lose.

I would highly recommend checking the two screws holding each of your beast mech heads to see if they are lose, remove them and add Loctite Blue to each screw. If you are going to perform the beast mech fix I would take care of this while doing it as its a pain in the ass to remove all the beast mechs once let alone twice, lol.

Below are the steps for how to perform the fix.

1. Remove the beast mech (5 screws from underneath the playfield + disconnect the 3 connectors)
2. Remove the screws / nut in the picture below. The nut on top is holding down a square piece of plastic, remove the piece of plastic (apply pressure from back to pop off after nut is removed)
20170128_142517 (resized).jpg
3. Losen the two screws that hold the beast head metal strip to the mech. The screws do not have to be completely removed
20170128_142712 (resized).jpg
4. Tilt the beast head to one side to remove the two screws below. I would recommend only removing one at a time as its a pain to get the holes lined up again when they are both removed. (Note: When tilting note location of the diode below, you do not want to break the solder connection for it).
20170128_142726 (resized).jpg
5. Apply Blue Loctite to first screw thread, re-tighten, same steps for the second screw, replace the remaining screws and nut.

Here's a link to the Loctite Blue. Using Loctite Blue will still allow for the screws to be removed later if you ever need to do another repair.

amazon.com link »

51cpjLy0kqL (resized).jpg

Oh, I would also recommend the two magnetic nut drivers from Klein Tools below. These will make the fix above and any repairs to The Hobbit (and other pins) much easier.

amazon.com link »

31IGxUZPoOL (resized).jpg

#508 84 days ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Notes regarding lose beast mech heads.
A few months ago I had one of the beast mech heads on my game come lose and nearly fall off. I fixed it but then noticed while performing the beast mech fix (plastic spacers from JJP update kit) today that nearly all of the screws holding the figure heads were lose.
I would highly recommend checking the two screws holding each of your beast mech heads in to see if they are lose, remove them and add Loctite Blue to each screw.
Below are the steps for how to perform the fix.
1. Remove the beast mech (5 screws from underneath the playfield + disconnect the 3 connectors)
2. Remove the screws / nut in the picture below. The nut on top is holding down a square piece of plastic, remove the piece of plastic (apply pressure from back to pop off after nut is removed)

3. Losen the two screws that hold the beast head metal strip to the mech. The screws do not have to be completely removed

4. Tilt the beast head to one side to remove the two screws below. I would recommend only removing one at a time as its a pain to get the holes lined up again when they are both removed. (Note: When tilting note location of the diode below, you do not want to break the solder connection for it).

5. Apply Blue Loctite to first screw thread, re-tighten, same steps for the second screw, replace the remaining screws and nut.
Here's a link to the Loctite Blue. Using Loctite Blue will still allow for the screws to be removed later if you ever need to do another repair.
amazon.com link »

Oh, I would also recommend the two magnetic nut drivers from Klein Tools below. These will make the fix above and any repairs to The Hobbit (and other pins) much easier.
amazon.com link »

Good Job !
Perfect instructions, thanks.

2 weeks later
#509 71 days ago

Question....Just got a Hobbit, where is the shaker motor setting in the menu?? I guess the prior owner shut it off. Thanks

#510 71 days ago

Coil settings - maximum shaker strength

#511 71 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Coil settings - maximum shaker strength

Thanks, Suprised how non existent this shaker was at medium. Much better at Maximum!

#512 68 days ago

G'day everyone. Just picked up my Hobbit Smaug and in the process of dialing it in.

Some great advice in this thread. One issue I have out of the box, keen to know if this is a common issue: ball traps are happening intermittently at the Smaug lock. Ball gets jammed on the metal ramp just before the magnet that holds the ball prior to dropping it into the hole. It appears that the wire ramp is perhaps not wide enough to allow the ball to travel freely.

Common issue? And is there a known easy fix?

Cheers.

#513 68 days ago
Quoted from swampy:

G'day everyone. Just picked up my Hobbit Smaug and in the process of dialing it in.
Some great advice in this thread. One issue I have out of the box, keen to know if this is a common issue: ball traps are happening intermittently at the Smaug lock. Ball gets jammed on the metal ramp just before the magnet that holds the ball prior to dropping it into the hole. It appears that the wire ramp is perhaps not wide enough to allow the ball to travel freely.
Common issue? And is there a known easy fix?
Cheers.

Check the position of the diverter when it is in the down position. Sometimes the diverter is flared out too much and when it's down it pins the ball between itself and the wall of the ramp. Easy fix: pull playfield forward, reach in from the left side with pliers covered with some cloth to prevent scratching, grab the end of the diverter metal (the deflector) and bend it down just a bit back toward the vertical. This will widen the gap to allow a ball with no momentum to pass easily through.

#514 67 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Check the position of the diverter when it is in the down position. Sometimes the diverter is flared out too much and when it's down it pins the ball between itself and the wall of the ramp. Easy fix: pull playfield forward, reach in from the left side with pliers covered with some cloth to prevent scratching, grab the end of the diverter metal (the deflector) and bend it down just a bit back toward the vertical. This will widen the gap to allow a ball with no momentum to pass easily through.

Yep. I had something similar on mine. Forget exactly what it was but it was a very easy fix as described. See what the ball is getting caught up on and give it a little bend.

#515 66 days ago

I went with transparent rubbers throughout except flippers which I did green. To be honest they are much like the white (on initial look) - but the rubbers tend to 'hold' the color of the surrounding LED colors instead of appearing white.

IMG_1456 (resized).JPG
IMG_1457 (resized).JPG
IMG_1458 (resized).JPG

#516 66 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I went with transparent rubbers throughout except flippers which I did green. To be honest they are much like the white (on initial look) - but the rubbers tend to 'hold' the color of the surrounding LED colors instead of appearing white.

I've also started replacing my rubbers with transparent and like the look. The exception is the green for the bottom flippers and blue for the upper flipper to try to match the playfield.

#517 66 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I went with transparent rubbers throughout except flippers which I did green. To be honest they are much like the white (on initial look) - but the rubbers tend to 'hold' the color of the surrounding LED colors instead of appearing white.

I had transparent on my slings but they cracked off really fast in 20 games.
Went back to STC white, seems to be holding up as it should.
Let us know how they are wearing as I also like the look a lot.

Im using Titan silicone bands on my TH and on my WOZ with the exception of the munchkin flipper, I chose a black urethane super band from pinball life, it hits really hard.

I really like the Titan flipper bands they feel like fresh rubber, grab the ball better and dont get as dirty. I also chose green for the TH and red for the WOZ.

#518 66 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I had transparent on my slings but they cracked off really fast in 20 games.
Went back to STC white, seems to be holding up as it should.
Let us know how they are wearing as I also like the look a lot.
Im using Titan silicone bands on my TH and on my WOZ with the exception of the munchkin flipper, I chose a black urethane super band from pinball life, it hits really hard.
I really like the Titan flipper bands they feel like fresh rubber, grab the ball better and dont get as dirty. I also chose green for the TH and red for the WOZ.

will do - they seem to holding up as well as the whites for me. But I like them fresh - so I change them fairly often (every 3 - 4 months)

#519 65 days ago

Has anyone gotten an extra barrel to put on the third pop bumper cap? I've always felt that third one looked unfinished.

#520 65 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Has anyone gotten an extra barrel to put on the third pop bumper cap? I've always felt that third one looked unfinished.

I was considering getting a replacement of the second (no rider) one and then modifying it to fit.

I then looked at the clearances and found it wouldn't fit below the rail without large changes and which is probably why they were never originally made.

I'm going to look into making one myself similar to the rider one when I get my new work space.

#521 65 days ago
Quoted from koops:

I was considering getting a replacement of the second (no rider) one and then modifying it to fit.
I then looked at the clearances and found it wouldn't fit below the rail without large changes and which is probably why they were never originally made.
I'm going to look into making one myself similar to the rider one when I get my new work space.

There was one with the feet out in a prototype. That would be a good one to get if possible.

#522 61 days ago

Can anyone suggest a way to adjust the beast mechs so they don't rub on the back side of the hole? I've also been looking for a fix for the beast mech wires rubbing i know someone posted one a wwhile back using a washer but i can't find the post. Thanks:)

#523 60 days ago

Raise the beast mech by pushing it up from below, then while it's raised, bend it forward a little, let it go, see if it's correct, repeat if necessary.

#524 60 days ago
Quoted from wolv3:

Can anyone suggest a way to adjust the beast mechs so they don't rub on the back side of the hole? I've also been looking for a fix for the beast mech wires rubbing i know someone posted one a wwhile back using a washer but i can't find the post. Thanks:)

Page 46 of the owners thread ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/46#post-3426459).

1 week later
#526 50 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Has anyone gotten an extra barrel to put on the third pop bumper cap? I've always felt that third one looked unfinished.

I must have been dreaming 2 or is 3 now years ago when I was in on the pre-order. I thought someone was working on this mod, but since I now bought a BA edition, I can't seem to find the original discussion anywhere.

#527 50 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Coil settings - maximum shaker strength

I wasn't sure if their warning in their of "Danger : Use at your own risk"was real or if they were just trying to be funny. I only set mine to high because I was paranoid.

#528 50 days ago
Quoted from DarkWizard:

I wasn't sure if their warning in their of "Danger : Use at your own risk"was real or if they were just trying to be funny. I only set mine to high because I was paranoid.

LOL...I've had both my WOZ and TH set to extreme since day one. It's the only way to go.

#529 50 days ago
Quoted from DarkWizard:

I must have been dreaming 2 or is 3 now years ago when I was in on the pre-order. I thought someone was working on this mod, but since I now bought a BA edition, I can't seem to find the original discussion anywhere.

I guess I assumed at the very least Matt at Back Alley would sell something. This seems to be the one thing screaming unfinished to me.

#530 50 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Back Alley

I have been waiting on some additional hobbit mods from Matt for some time - hope he gets something to add to the game. His WOZ mods were so amazing they put them on the RR

#531 50 days ago

So, what I am seeing is, my goblin head is auto hitting itself. I looked at the goblin head and listened when pressing it. It doesn't sound or seem to feel any different from the other beast heads. Not sure if I am imagining it, but it almost looks when it pops up, it is jiggling a bit more than the other heads. I can't seem to find anything to adjust though. I was debating trying to tighten things up on the whole mech using the steps above to remove the whole thing, but not sure I fully understand how the actual trap door fits through the playfield. I figured I would ask here before I start taking it apart.

Any ideas?

#532 50 days ago
Quoted from DarkWizard:

So, what I am seeing is, my goblin head is auto hitting itself. I looked at the goblin head and listened when pressing it. It doesn't sound or seem to feel any different from the other beast heads. Not sure if I am imagining it, but it almost looks when it pops up, it is jiggling a bit more than the other heads. I can't seem to find anything to adjust though. I was debating trying to tighten things up on the whole mech using the steps above to remove the whole thing, but not sure I fully understand how the actual trap door fits through the playfield. I figured I would ask here before I start taking it apart.
Any ideas?

it is a typical leaf switch (pop bumpers, slingshot switch, eos switch, stand up switch, etc) and you need to adjust the leafs to be a little more open on so that they are not as sensitive. the way that i do it is to hold the "trap door" up and with the other hand adjust the leaf switch.

» YouTube video

this is a video for a stand up target on a Theater of Magic, but it is the same concept since the beast head is a stand up switch in side of the mech.

#533 49 days ago

Thank you! I had no idea it was a leaf switch. That was easy. This machine has so much going on, I wasn't sure what to expect.

Quoted from KingPinGames:

it is a typical leaf switch (pop bumpers, slingshot switch, eos switch, stand up switch, etc) and you need to adjust the leafs to be a little more open on so that they are not as sensitive. the way that i do it is to hold the "trap door" up and with the other hand adjust the leaf switch.
» YouTube video
this is a video for a stand up target on a Theater of Magic, but it is the same concept since the beast head is a stand up switch in side of the mech.

#534 47 days ago

Im doing the ramp flap fix and have a question about the kit. They sent the short rivots that you use a rivot clincher on that you see on all ramps that i thought was all you used to re-attach the ramps. My question is what are the long 2" pop rivots for they also sent in the kit?

#535 47 days ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Im doing the ramp flap fix and have a question about the kit. They sent the short rivots that you use a rivot clincher on that you see on all ramps that i thought was all you used to re-attach the ramps. My question is what are the long 2" pop rivots for they also sent in the kit?

Since most people dont have a rivet press or even a proper river clincher, JJP sent you some pop-rivets.
They know that you might have a pop-rivet gun or can get one really cheap if needed from The Home Depot or harbor freight...

The pop-rivets are not ideal for route operations, but should hold up pretty good in a home environment.
They dont hold as tight as the pressed ones though.

I used the regular rivets since I have the press from pinrescue as well as the hand clicher from hanson rivets as well as the easy press from pinball life (I know its way over kill on my part but I got the tools over a period of years...).

#536 47 days ago

I have 100 plays on my LE and the sling rubber is already deteriorating and cut slightly where the kicker hits it. anyone else having issues like this and seeing rapid wear?

#537 47 days ago

i have seen this before. pinball companies (most, not all) use the cheap standard rubbers. there is no indication how long they sat at the manufactures plant, how long they sat at the pinball assembly plant, etc. I would say if you got 4000-5000 active kicks out of it you are doing good. if you are looking for longer lasting, look at the poly urethane ones.

something like this

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3184

#538 47 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I have 100 plays on my LE and the sling rubber is already deteriorating and cut slightly where the kicker hits it. anyone else having issues like this and seeing rapid wear?

Yes, 1 of the rubbers broke on mine on the side. And one up in the pops

#539 47 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I have 100 plays on my LE and the sling rubber is already deteriorating and cut slightly where the kicker hits it. anyone else having issues like this and seeing rapid wear?

I have had a lot of variability on rubber lately. A couple games I added new rubber too had things break quickly. I chalk it up to variable product. If it keeps breaking that is something else!

#540 47 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Since most people dont have a rivet press or even a proper river clincher, JJP sent you some pop-rivets.
They know that you might have a pop-rivet gun or can get one really cheap if needed from The Home Depot or harbor freight...
The pop-rivets are not ideal for route operations, but should hold up pretty good in a home environment.
They dont hold as tight as the pressed ones though.
I used the regular rivets since I have the press from pinrescue as well as the hand clicher from hanson rivets as well as the easy press from pinball life (I know its way over kill on my part but I got the tools over a period of years...).

Both myself and falconpunch used the solid rivets. Just flip the ramp onto something flat and hard (ie. a vice) and gently tap with a hammer. They will deform well enough to hold and look like a factory rivet on top

#541 47 days ago

Yeah I taped mine with the end of a large drill bit first. That made them mushroom - then hit with hammer

#542 46 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I have 100 plays on my LE and the sling rubber is already deteriorating and cut slightly where the kicker hits it. anyone else having issues like this and seeing rapid wear?

I had the same cut marks going from the slings as well three weeks in. Replaced with white silicone bands and have not noticed any cutting or other issues now for months. I would also recommend looking at replacing the third sling (upper left) as well as the top rubber in the pops, or at least having replacements for these on hand.

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