Hobbit Owners Thread

SOS. Looking for some help before I need to call LTG again. Hobbit Gold ran great for 75-100 games then it suddenly got possessed by the pinball demons?? Now when you start a game the barrel pop bumpers continue to cycle over and over..... Slowly but non stop across all three. Not sure if the cabinet got bumped as we did recently move it to a new location in my game room but not sure. Any direction or ideas would be Very much appreciated. I need to kill me some orks but my hands are tied. Thanks for any support.

#3313 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Quoted from LTG:
I'd check the stand up leaf blade switch behind the rubber ring past the two top pop bumpers on the upper right area. Switch #71 on page C-86 in the manual. Be sure it isn't stuck closed.
LTG : )

OK I have to say it, heck with HR or the rules. I LOVE THIS MAN! Lloyd you sir are the ambassador of good will and one of the reasons I So love this hobby!! You (not surprised at all) were 100% correct! Switch #71 was locked closed and all is fixed with one minor tweak. Sincerely, I love you, my kids now love you, and my wife loves you (don't get any ideas!). If SOME day I am able to help you with Anything you just reach out. FYI, I am the Senior manager for OMAX precision waterjet systems so if you ever need anything creative cut, I am at your call. Thank you as always and blessings to your family.

1 week later

#3360 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Try to think of it like an MM troll bomb. With the button it's like a Virtual hit on the pop up rarget when available. No gate or anything complicated. Simply a Free hit to the pop up target.

2 months later

#3676 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Quoted from Goronic:
Mine started looking a bit scuffed up - and I could not stand that I could see dust and debris under the protector but could not wipe it off. So, I cut the protector off - and I have liked the look so much more. And when I see dust - I can just wipe it off
I just novus 1 it a bit, and add some good wax, let dry, buff to a shine and keep on playing. I do this about every 2 months if it needs it or not. Makes the game fast as hell for about 20 games or so, and then settles down a bit to playable speeds. Overall after having PF protectors once I doubt I will get them again.
Oh, and PF looks so much more colorful and vibrant without looking at it through plastic that dulls it, and I think reflects some of the GI lighting washing out the PF even more.
EDIT: If I had one on location I would probably get the protector - and when I brought it home for good I would remove it, and have a brand new PF. In home environments you will care for it properly so I don't think the protectors are needed there. If you are concerned with an area of the PF use mylar (not cover the whole PF with plastic). Just my 2 cents.

Totally agreed and pretty much the same experience I had with a protector. Just reminded me of that plastic covered furniture of the 70's. The only time I could see a protector being a good/fair choice is for Older titles of the 80's where it would be hard to justify a tear down and cost to clear coat like BK or similar with flaking paint. Did a BK and did not like the look and constant lifting at every edge/target/drop area. Just mylar trouble areas if you really fear damage in my opinion.

1 week later

#3717 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Since you just bought the NIB I would first verify that this wasn't already done. To my knowledge the Kit was only created for the first batches of machine Long ago that they did not see these issues. My NIB months ago had every one of these upgrades done at the factory. I believe someone mentioned a build date cut off where all were already fixed. Just a thought.

2 months later

#3894 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Quoted from DadofTwins:
I have seen a ball or two come down the right return and jump to the outlane, completely baffled me lol. Guess I will keep trying to kill Smaug then if that is the end all at this point. Thanks for the info.

Try playing with the glass On this time! Lol Good score playing this game is a love hate. From 2 minutes to 50 and never a dull moment. Enjoy.

3 months later

#4200 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Quoted from brg126:
I just installed a Chrome Candy shooter rod, as it matches the LE almost perfectly. It looks great, BUT now it barely taps the ball at all. Seems the outer spring on the shooter rod is too big. The knob on the original shooter rod allows the spring to go into it a bit, allowing the shooter to actually hit the ball. Any idea if a smaller outer spring is available anywhere? If not the nice new shooter rod will need to go back .

Yes the spring is to long. Candy shooters offers a spring to go with your shooter so it works correctly. I had the same issue. Only a firm punch got the ball to move. Lol

3 weeks later

#4272 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Just an update, our Hobbit plug and play barrel kits are back in stock! Hand painted with theme correct stained rope banding and waterjet cut painted arrows for game authenticity. Barrels are lined with translucent ring liners for a unique glow using any color LED (LED bulb not included). Check them out at The Mod Couple pinside marketplace store or PM me for interest! Thanks for looking!

The Mod Couple

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1 month later

#4384 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Ok I may get stupidest question of the year for this but here goes...... I have had the Hobbit for close to a year now and still don't fully understand the full use of the upper right flipper? Is it primarily for the 5 drop targets or are there other values I am missing with it? Again, not a complaint just doesn't make as much sense to me as say DI or TZ. Often my wife and I just skip the upper flipper as the drop targets are easier with the lower flippers. Ok, throw rocks now....lol

#4386 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Quoted from Pimp77:
There are times when it’s helpful, but not always needed. For example, when the ball is in the bumpers and exits you may see the captive ball flash a light blue indicating it will add a kickback if hit. You only have a few seconds so using that upper flipper is likely your only shot at it. Also, when enough enough barrels are filled by the bumpers, a single DWARF target will flash light blue after exiting the bumpers...again, you only have a few seconds so the upper flipper shot is your best bet. Getting enough of those will light an extra ball. There is also the Smaug kill shot that it is used for and it’s used for the regular dragon mode. There might be other uses, but there isn’t any obvious shot for it like most games with a third flipper.

Thanks for the info and advice! Just seemed less than used but then again it's taken me close to a year to understand Half of the rules on this game...

3 weeks later

#4488 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Quoted from Rondogg:
Would something like this work to dim the leds in the backbox?
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/mtxbriteadj.htm

Trust me when I say I Love everything Comet but this dimmer is Less than useful. The adjustment screw breaks with just a fowl look lol. You can get one of these simple 12-24v dimmers on Amazon for about $6. Much better solution. Good Luck.

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#4500 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird

Quoted from Rondogg:
I really dont like the backglass lighting. It's way too strong and blows out the shading and fine lines in the artwork. So I took Yelobirds advice and switched in a dimmer.
I used velcro and lengthened the wires. Will probably use screws which seems like a more elegant and permanent solution.

Turned out great! Nice job and thanks for sharing how you did it!

#4502 6 years ago

DAD

Yelobird