still waiting...
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider xbloodgreenx.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from Ransom99:If these are key fobs what do they unlock, or are they just keychains
key fob == keychain in this case. Lol, it's pretty standard for games come with "promotional" keychains.
Quoted from flipnout1:Check out our new Hobbit Mods on our website
flipnoutpinball.com
I'm liking the ring button plates. Just ordered one.
Quoted from meSz:Correct me if I am wrong but anyone can put a post up on JJP's site. The post you're referring too is no different than if I were to put the same post up on here. In short, it doesn't mean there are any planned updates or that JJP is looking for input, albeit nice if it turns out to be the case!
Sort of wrong, you need to be accepted to post there (though not difficult to get access), and the fact that Keith actually reads comments there and welcomes feedback (to a extent).
Quoted from lschmidlin:Hi guys – I hate to keep asking the same question but that's how much this is bugging me! Ha ha. Just don't understand the backstab. Someone said it is like a MM troll bomb, but I'm not sure that's the case. A troll bomb registers a hit. When I hit backstab it literally does nothing.
Take a look at my original post if you can shed some light on what is probably a cool feature that I just can't figure out!
Thanks.
I understand it as, you have to hit it when the ball hits the backside of the pop-up. When in test mode there is a trigger that senses when you tap it from behind.
Quoted from Pinball-Escobar:Im tired of people being nice...accusing someone of playing with backglass off?? Have you ever thought maybe you just suck at pinball? Colonel Mustard called, he said get a clue
So who's troll account is this?
Quoted from mbelofsky:Sorry if this is a duplicate question. I searched and cannot find this. Does anyone have a solution for the ball getting stuck on top of the right flipper? I’m trying to find something to put there. The ball sometimes goes there when it is launched off one of the pop ups.
Apparently it was an issue to the previous owner of my machine, so they took a dremel to the post to cut out a notch to allow the ball to pass through. Works perfect.
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:‘Why is JJP special and different? Hire some damn coders already.’
Since you work in software, you know that once a programmer starts coding they have their own unique style that only they can decipher. Usually due to not making proper notes in the margin so only they know what they did! Sorry, but you are stuck with Keith and he is busy. Try back next year
That's not how coding works...I'm a software engineer and analyze others code every single day. Even if it has zero notes you can still understand the code with a little digging.
The sound on my game cuts in and out on some sound effects and music during certain points in the gameplay. Always happens when multiple modes are stacked, during Smaug multiball and super noticeable when Smaug is killed. During the kill sequence it's like the entire music/sfx track gets clipped to being very quiet. None of my volume settings are in clipping level, and I've tried various settings. Also have tried contacting customer support who's only suggestion so far has been to reseat all connections inside and outside of the chassis, which hasn't done anything.
Anyone else have and rectify this problem? Could it be a bad sound card?
Quoted from LTG:I'd reseat connectors first, anything to do with audio. Then try a new isolation transformer.
LTG : )
LTG,
Definitely reseated all connections with no change. Are you talking about the ground loop isolator available on the site?
Quoted from LTG:Yes.
LTG : )
I thought that was for humming and buzzing issues, which is not the issue here. Though I'm willing to give anything a try, so ordered one.
Quoted from daudioguy:If Smaug's death sequence is not center stage then there is a problem... I will review this.
Thank you so much for the reply, I really started to notice the ducking when listening via headphones. For the Smaug kill sequence I will try and record this either tonight or tomorrow and find a way to post it here as it is very extreme. I've talked to others who don't hear what I'm talking about, which is making me think there could be something wrong with my setup or hardware.
Alright I made a recording through the headphone jack (note: can hear the same through the speakers), and created an unlisted youtube video so I could share the sound issue I'm experiencing.
2.01 is up on the site now:
==============================================================================
== Version 2.01 December 15, 2017 ==
==============================================================================
=== Game Code
* Fixed pop-up beast arrow and GI lamp logic
* Don't show Today's High Scores page if there are none to show
+ Added adjustment to control "old school" attract mode light show
* The Bait: beast stays down longer now when "distracted"
+ Added Critic's Cut preset
=== Core Code
* Fixed audio mixing issue that resulted in distorted sounds
* Fixed ball tracking error caused by losing ball from lockup during ballsaver
+ Added CUSTOMIZATION sub-menu under UTILITIES in Diagnostics
* Fixed a drain/tilt condition that could cause a game to hang
* Suppress knocker when Match is skipped via start button (on free play only)
+ Added check for switches stuck closed/open at power up
+ Added check for any opto switch working at power up; multiball devices will
not kick if no opto switch working
+ Added display message at power up if Test Report error detected
* Trough will abandon kicking after a while
+ Added check for all trough switches closed (including jam); trough will not
kick when this condition detected (likely a failure of the trough board);
game will not start during this condition, and a Trough Error message is
displayed
* Multiball devices will abandon kicking with coin door open now; abandoned
devices will kick when door is closed
+ Added Knocker Strength adjustment
* Turned on Test Report "dot" Paid Play preset
* Turned off Today's High Scores for Paid Play preset
* Fixed "Last Game Scores" displaying after Factory Reset
* Removed erroneous "Coin Door Open at Init" logger event when exiting Diag
* Hide Pindemption presets when not enabled via dongle
+ Added Status Report Start Time adjustment
Quoted from Indusguys:What is the best way to contact JJP? I sent them a email on Sunday and haven't heard back?
Did you just email, or did you submit a support ticket? Support tickets usually get answered fairly quickly.
Quoted from Indusguys:I went to "contact" on their website and explained the situation, haven't heard back? If that is a support ticket, then yes I filled it out.
I would try here: http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/
Then click on Support Form.
Quoted from Cusanus:Hello people, i get a smaug edition, I love te game, but i dont like to stack multiballs and modes, i thought installing the crític cut preset Will solve this, but nothing changes, someone test the crític cut preset?? Thanks
It doesn't eliminate it, and there's nothing you can do to eliminate it (for now). You can make the multiball modes harder to start, like beast, by upping the difficulty in the settings.
My Smaug mouth motor appear to have gone kaputt. Anyone figure out a fix, other than a complete assembly swap? I spent a couple hours trying to move the mouth and get the servo to re-engage. I can get it to work a couple times after moving the jaw a little side-to-side and hearing the servo motor make some noise, and then would fail again after a few more tests.
Most times it doesn't seem like it's engaged to the servo motor at all, the mouth just hangs open and there is no resistance when manually opening closing the mouth.
I guess my next step is trying to perform the Calibrate the Servo Horn from the manual. Has anyone had success in this?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Did you take it apart and check the servo?
Hopefully doing that tonight. Saw appendix E of the manual basically covers all the stuff I need to do. Just hoping the servo isn't shot, but if it is I would rather only replace that, than the whole assembly.
So finally got around to taking Smaug out. The connection with the arm, servo, and mouth looked fine. Waiting on my servo replacement, and will update if that fixes my problem .
Quoted from xbloodgreenx:So finally got around to taking Smaug out. The connection with the arm, servo, and mouth looked fine. Waiting on my servo replacement, and will update if that fixes my problem .
Worked on swapping out the servo last night. Followed the instructions on how to calibrate the servo from the manual, and it doesn't work right. No matter what adjustment I make to the settings, the mouth stays closed for the duration of the test then ends by dropping open. Anyone else have an issue trying to calibrate a new servo?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Does the servo work properly without the smaug assembly attached?
Did you replace the servo controller board?
I got it all setup and workin perfect now. Feel like the instructions for calibrating were reversed, as I had to do a lot of adjusting to get the servo motor in the right position. Didn’t need to replace the board.
Quoted from Lamprey:Have you thought about changing your setup?
Full Discloser: I don't own a Hobbit. However, I've read a lot of people think the game is too easy or it lasts too long. In order to make it more challenging some have changed difficultly, adjusted the angle, opened the outlanes, etc.
I like to play at factory setting for the most part, but maybe this is a game that would be good to make more challenging as your skill level increases or you learn how to play it better...?
just spit-balling..
Exactly, also increasing difficulty of modes in the settings.
Quoted from Yfichelle:Hello all. I am with the 2.01 code.
I play with my hobbit since 2 days and i have already done into the fire and barrel without difficulty... i thought that the hobbit was hard to play... so i think that i am missing something.
Do i really terminate theses 2 modes ? Do you put the difficulty level to hard in the settings ?
Thanks,
Yannick
Did you finish both modes or just get to them? There's about 5 levels in each arkenstone mode.
Quoted from Kenz:I tend to alternate between the pins I play. Anyways back playing Hobbit and defeated the Smaug for the first time. However what really disappointed me was that I hadn't completed
'into the fire'
'barrel escape'
'Battle of Five armies'
Why would this happen?
If this is not a bug I think JJP in the new update need to have a high score table for scores that have defeated the Smaug. Thoughts ?
I don't understand what you think is a bug... that you can kill Smaug before defeating those arkenstone modes? Battle of Five Armies occurs after Smaug's death btw.
As I was diagnosing my Orc mech not registering hits (screw fell off and lodged behind head), I noticed that the mech is hitting the wood behind it when it comes down on the metal bracket that is angled down from the flap. With the playfield lifted, when I push on the plunger to raise the orc there is definitely some resistance, whereas the other beast mechs push out smoothly. I thought I saw a fix for this in the past, but now can't find it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Raise the mech and bend the whole assembly ftom the top of the Plainfield either forward or backward a little at a time until it drops like a rock.
ah brute force. I thought I saw something else about washers, or was that something else?
Quoted from Goronic:I replaced my Smaug as well when the mouth stopped working. In my opinion JJP should provide instructions (and part - purchased of course) to replace the motor. That is typically the reason for the failed mech. That, or allow the Smaug mech to be shipped to JJP for repair (owner would be charged shipping and repair). That should be way less than the $500 replacement.
They do have instructions on how to replace and setup the servo, section E.1 of the user manual. I used it a year ago when replacing the servo on mine. The servos are super common from most hobby stores so there's no reason for JJP to resell them.
Quoted from ArcadeBar:Anyone had Smaug’s head move fine but mouth not moving?
I got The Hobbit two months ago and had no idea until now that the mouth was supposed to move!? The seller also didn’t tell me there was a loud crackle in the left speaker and a gash on the inside wall that wasn’t in the pics. I put mirror blades on and covered the gash and pulled the sound bar and found a wire that I resoldered and it’s magic now, just hoping this mouth issue is another ‘easy’ fix? At least now I know why I got a great deal on it!(; Thanks for any help
I had the same thing happen about a month after purchasing my Hobbit off of someone. Followed the instructions others have posted in this thread about replacing the servo. There is also supplemental instructions for calibrating the servo in the online manual. It took me a few hours to get it working perfectly. 3+ years later, still good.
Quoted from Lermods:Is there anything else in this update besides WiFi and scorbit to make it worth updating? I don’t expect any more updates and I don’t use scorbit. I see it says other fixes, etc., but are they noticeable? Wasn’t going to update if it’s just WiFi and scorbit.
=== Game Code
+ Lamp in front of Goblin is now lit during Escape from Goblin-Town Mode.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.
=== Core Code
+ Added WiFi and hard-wired networking. This allows for future online update
support. You'll need to install a WiFi dongle or hardwire the game to your
network for this feature to work.
+ Added the option to opt-in to Beta Network Updates.
+ Added initial Scorbit integration.
* Added Player Menu, accessing it by holding the right flipper button in
Attract Mode. This allows for connecting of Bluetooth headphones. You'll
need to install a Bluetooth dongle for this feature to work.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.
Quoted from screaminr:Keith said it would take him about an hour to make it a co-op game .
If any game deserves co-op it's this one, just based on the theme alone.
I don’t know if it’s always been like this and I’m just noticing it now, or if it’s always been this way. It looks like the wood at the top of the game, that the head sits on and has the top glass channel is sagging. I have to kinda push down the glass channel so the glass slides in ok. You can also see a gap between the head. Anyone else have this?
A6E2B4DF-30BD-4561-A124-DDA33E869912 (resized).jpegQuoted from Travahontas:Not exactly the same, but... In mine, that whole strip of wood split during shipping along the line of screws that hold that glass channel in place. I now hold the glass channel in place with double sided tape instead of screws.
wow that sucks, guess it could always be worse.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider xbloodgreenx.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread?tu=xbloodgreenx and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.