How long is the pin? It's my first one so I don't have a reference. Can't wait until it's here!
How long is the pin? It's my first one so I don't have a reference. Can't wait until it's here!
Quoted from FalconPunch:
Haha, I think that's gollum screaming Noooo.
Yeah, even if they trimmed it together closer it still would sound weird, because the same call out for when you get the super jackpot and the tone of his voice is different.
Yea after listening again i hear Gollum that all came together great
What are your thoughts on adding an external sub? I remember I read somewhere that people have added them in.
I just unboxed my hobbit and I've been trying to iron out the kinks on this machine I had an issue with the ball not going into the hole above Smaug and found this plastic piece covering the hole(see attached pic). It looks like the metal tab broke off from wherever it was supposed to be. Also that start button is stuck when you try to push it in. It looks like the lock bar may need to be adjusted up as the playfield sits too low and is resting on the switch. What are your thoughts?
I got my SE game yesterday and noticed a few differences from the earlier builds. There is no game # on the apron as well it has all the game fixes as well as different lighting in the back box to bring out the colors better. I also had way too much flipper strength off the bat so I had to turn them down to 18.
I'll have to take a look. Mine is set at 7. I was getting the fast balls rolling off the rails as well. I'm having issues with the ball dropping out of the right wireform and spinning up and to the outlane.
Quoted from Ransom99:
Oh yeah... I forgot to ask last night (all that delicious turkey...)
Did you folks have a 2nd set of keys hanging just inside the coin door? They look like the set that opens the coin door but it's cut differently. I did a search through the manual pdf to see if there was a 2nd set needed elsewhere to no avail...
Quoted from Jeffreyjonesbsme:
My check for my Hobbit LE was mailed today.
I need to read through this whole thread when it arrives.
It sounds like I may need to tweak a few things.
Super excited though.
Did I read there is a Google group I should join? What are the details of that group?
There's a lot of posts so start now and take notes on posts with different fixes. One thing I'd recommend to you when you get your game is to check the axes on the slingshot to make sure they aren't making contact with the playfield. It's an awesome game enjoy!
I finally got around to installing the cliffy kit and when I was doing the one on the bottom I noticed the kick back screws were out quite a bit. Is it normal for those to be so loose after 800 plays?
if that doent work you could look at adding a washer or adjusting the position of the part that drops the ball.
I finally got around to putting in the ground loop isolator and found that the static was gone but the callouts were very quiet. I went into the settings and bumped it up to max and still could barely hear Gandalf. Suggestions?
Quoted from finman2000:
I used an Amazon Basic cord and it worked fine. You may be able to get away with a spare cord around your house. The one that JJP supplies is pure garbage. In fact, the plug on mine didn't even fit snugly in the jack. Here is a link to the amazon product
amazon.com link »
Thanks I'll check it out.
I took out my posts today and found that the right side has been tightened so hard it's damaged the playfield. What can I do to reduce the chance of further damage?
Should I put Mylar or anything over the cracking? I would like to leave them out of the game.
Quoted from pinballinreno:
My spider head came loose again today.
I put some blue loctite on the screws upon reassembly this time. It should b fine now.
Its probably good to check all the heads for tightness each time you have the glass off for cleaning.
I lost a spring clip reinstalling the trap door somewhere, I imagine it will drop down in the cabinet.
Its a good idea to have spare clips, they are tiny and a pain to install, fortunately I have spares.
Do you know what size they are? I lost one and can't seem to find it. Tried out home depot but all of the sizes are bigger.
Quoted from crwjumper:
I need a little help. I just sold my Hobbit And when the guy set it up at home it starts and seems to be OK but the “Start” button won’t start the game. He’s checked the connections at the button and the large connector at the back of the PC box with the yellow wires as well. Any ideas?
Check that the rubber feet on the playfield rails aren't sitting on top of the metal board box. The playfield might be rubbing against button
I don't thin it needs to be all on the first ball. Are all of the modes lit up? If so might be a setting adjustment
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:
I'm at 6.5 now, seems to be pretty common. I'm wondering if the ball guide is in the right place. I've dialled back the coil power to minimum (6) to no avail. Looking at the silver guide on the left that the ball follows out of the wind lance shot, I wonder if it was properly assembled at the factory. When I hold a straight edge to it, it points directly at the right VUK hole, is this normal? I've tried to attach a picture. Please let me know if I need more details/better description.
My two pictures below are of where the metal guide is sitting on the pf, the first pic I am holding a flat carpenters pencil to the guide, showing that it aims at the VUK hole.
Thanks for your time guys.
Quoted from libtech:
I run mine at 7.2 and love it, looks like it could be that and also your lane guide definately faces futher up than mine - losen the screw going into the pf on the guide and bend it a bit then tighten it back up, should be golden (also open up those outlanes!)
You still have posts on your outlanes?
Quoted from Boatshoe:
Hi, I was enjoying my relatively new Hobbit until the Orc target stopped registering hits. I'm seeking advice on how to handle the repair.
1) The orc beast mech is in a *very* tight spot. I ordered a long nut driver because I was having issues removing the mech. Is it recommended to remove the wires around the mech? I do not want to break anything else. The Warg and Spider look much easier to remove.
2) From what I can tell, the wire for the target may have ripped out of the connector plug. If this is true, is there a specific pin or part I need to get the wire back into the plug? Is it just a molex pin?
3) Is there a specific fix to keep the target wires from getting pinched, or ripped apart in the future?
Hey it could be a leaf switch that needs adjustment but most likely your beast mech has cut the wires for that switch when it moves up and down. The solution has been discussed here before and I think it's on the key posts. When you remove the mech you need to be careful not to drop a screw as they can fall in the subway and are a PITA to retrieve.
If it is showing lock but you have qualified one of the modes you can hit the ring button to postpone the lock then it should be lit for mode.
I think you need to at least hit the ramp once to qualify the Gandalf modes before book will light
I had to adjust my L rollover and had the same issue. I just looked at it from a bunch of different angles until I could get my tool on the switch and did it blind. Not the best way but it did the trick.
Does anyone's Smaug ball lock magnet actually stop the ball? I can't think of the last time mine did.
I tried a ground loop isolator. I found it made the some go away but then I could hear any of the call outs :/
Quoted from Ransom99:
I'll try downloading 2.0 again and see if that does the trick. I've tried 3 sticks so far, all reformatted fat32. Multiple computers read the sticks fine. All come back saying such n such file already exists. I've tried replacing and not replacing and neither method works. I'll report back when after trying again with a fresh download.
You sound like me from 2016. The sound I had is what I call static coming through my speakers. The noise first starts at bootup (which is standard I thinkj... no problem with that) but then carries over into normal operating mode. At that point is sort of sounds like someone mowing their lawn a few houses down lol. JJP sent me the isolator (didn't work) and some fresh cables (also didn't work) but we ended up bypassing whatever that middle portion was and went directly to the sound card which made the sound go away.
» YouTube video
Maybe 50 seconds in.
I'll have to give that a try, thanks!
Quoted from Yfichelle:
Hello all. I am with the 2.01 code.
I play with my hobbit since 2 days and i have already done into the fire and barrel without difficulty... i thought that the hobbit was hard to play... so i think that i am missing something.
Do i really terminate theses 2 modes ? Do you put the difficulty level to hard in the settings ?
Check the pitch of the game and make sure it's 7° or more. Pull your outlane and center posts and remove the ball saver. Should be harder then!
The status report screen is fucking awesome. Should definitely help newer players understand the feeder modes better and it's nice go to see how far you got in modes once the madness dies down and you can trap up.
If you start modes and then do a mode that's touching it on the right side you get bonus points based on how well you did in the previous mode. It can become pretty lucrative if you can start racking up your points. Some modes need multiple qualifiers to become unlocked
Hey I just found my EOS switch for the upper right flipper snapped in half so I'll need to order a new one. What other spare parts should I get? So far I'm planning on getting some springs for the beast door flaps and probably one of each of the different coils.
When you restore the settings after doing a full install will that restore the game audits as well? I backed up the settings but when I tried to restore them its not detecting the proper file. Any tips?
Quoted from LTG:
I don't think so.
Sounds like they weren't backed up right.
On the USB stick, if you open the stick it should say pinballbackup . If that isn't there, you didn't save them.
LTG : )
I checked the files and it seems like it has all the items that would be included with the back up. When I unzip the file it gets named jjpe I attached a picture of the misc folder
Quoted from PanzerFreak:
Yes, they are just as reliable as the latest games assuming the proper hardware fix updates have been done. They consisted of the following. I would ask the owner if they did these unless they were done from the factory. If they were not done JJP will likely send you the update kit for free.
1. Spacers in beast mech area to prevent balls from getting stuck when beast mechs close
2. Springs replaced on all drop targets
3. Ramp flaps replaced with blue steel flaps, the older ones are prone to curling
4. Post installed at far left rail (leads to kick back) to prevent ball from falling off or rail replaced entirely with updated rail.
There is also a new rail that can be purchased for the left side if you don't want to add a post.
Thanks Lloyd looks like I'll be out of luck. I'll just have to remember I have 1900 plays on it before the update.
The black arrow edition has a swivel monitor and I think the boards might be in the backbox on that version. I love the decals and gold rails on the Smaug the best
Quoted from Pinballomatic:
Actually the boards being in the head and the swivel monitor mounted on the pivoting arm didn’t start until Dialed In (and continued with Pirates). Black Arrow Hobbits still have the earlier style monitor mounts.
Oh really? I remember seeing them talk about it when they revealed the black arrow. I remember being pissed off because I would like to have had the extra room in my cab for parts and whatnot.
The way I like to start the game is to start the resurgence of sauron then start ripping the spinner to build the ramp value. Add time when it's lit blue then keep ripping the spinner. You can get the ramp value to 10+k pretty quickly and will have most of the map completed. If you can get into a multiball and complete the mode this way there are some pretty juicy treasure values to be had.
Quoted from pineal:
Treasure values? Tell me more. I can usually complete Sauron but haven’t been working in the spinners. I can’t wait to try your strategy!
I think it's called treasure hunt. Sometimes after a mode when you're in multiball there will be a bunch of red shots. If you make them all you get the jackpot value which is displayed at the top of the screen.
Quoted from pineal:
Whoa! I tried your strategy today, hitting the spinners during Sauron. Racked up some points quick. Can’t wait to try to shoot the moon on the red shots too. Thanks for the awesome tips! Exactly the type of stuff I was looking for to up my scores. Now if I can only remember to pick up some superlube...
It can definitely add up quick. If you can use that mode to feed the others that are attached to it (not sure which ones) then you can get some good points quickly. I'm still trying to figure out the other good scoring modes so if anyone has tips let me know!
Quoted from Ponzie:
Just added a Hobbit Smaug Gold Edition to the collection.
It has the center post installed but in looking in the coin box, the little rubber piece that fills the hole if you remove the post is gone.
Any suggestions on how to fill the hole if I remove the post?
Can't seem to find the part on the JJP website...
I didn't know those were a thing. I've just had open holes for that post and the outlane posts
Is there a setting to allow the volume control on the coinbox to control the volume of the game without headphones?
I don't see why the beasts need to be disabled if you are in beast multiball and have Smaug ready to go keep hitting the green action button to postpone the multiball until beast is over. If you can't avaoid the beasts in Smaug multiball I believe you can hit the action button after a super jackpot to stop beast. Can someone confirm that?
Quoted from CLEllison:
The one thing I really despise about the design is ball hop due to the angle of the bottom of ramp. I think a kit with longer screws and a plastic wedge placed underneath the ramp to smooth the ball travel out would be the ticket.
I think you may need the ramp flap upgrade. Are the flaps starting to curl?
Quoted from Koos:
I tried this and all switches seem to work reliably. But it still happens almost every time so I checked switch history right after the issue. It appears there’s a problem with my E for Elf drop target this switch is registered multiple time because it’s retrying several times.
Please see the video I’ve made. In the beginning of the video I ‘manually’ control this letter up and down with the coil test. Everything seems normal right?
Right after I start the drop target bank test and this shows the same issue as during gameplay.
I’ve investigated below the Playfield but everything seems fine.
Any ideas on this? Driving me crazy that I’m unable to switch between skill shots reliably!
I had this happen yesterday I found that the switch was always showing that the drop was up. I traced the wires and disconnected and reconnected the harness and fixed the issue GL
7 degrees is fine I've had mine set there since I bought it. Might even make it steeper
Quoted from JordanB:
I'm late to the party, but joining the club with a Smaug Edition next weekend if all goes according to plan.
I don't have much of an opinion of the game yet, but one thing that stands out in my memory is the LOUD grinding sound of the drop targets resetting. I just watched the JJP live stream of the 3.0 code, and see that it's still very much present. I'm honestly surprised it made it through QC, I nearly had a heart attack the first couple times I heard it.
I've searched the threads and most people seem to just say yup, it's loud. *shrug*
I was hoping that since the prototype/early model that I first played, a software update might have changed the behavior of the bank reset to do a quick sequence of the individual target resets rather than the loud as hell, ratcheting of them all going up at once.
I'll be reading through the whole 140+ pages of this thread soon enough, but just wanted to see if there is any clever fix out for this, or if it's just something that everyone lives with.
It's way louder with the glass off but still pretty loud. When I'm playing it I don't really even notice it anymore
Quoted from Tharkun:
As I posted earlier, new TH owner and had to share to game of my life from the other night. Well over 40 minutes on 5 ball game with factory default medium settings. I have no idea how I did this, but my eyes were blurred and blinded by all the flashing, and my ears were ringing and overwhelmed with the sound of this game (had the new Polk 100 watt subwofer up too loud). Now I am beginning to understand rules and getting better at game each day. If i can just get there again!
Welcome to the club. Your eyes will thank you
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:
I just bought a Hobbit. Phenomenal game!
When I start a game, one mode is already qualified. It is always (seems to be) a random mode. Talked to others and also watched videos on youtube and other games to do qualify a mode at game start.
I checked the settings for book modes. All default.
Any other ideas? Thanks for inputs!
I think it is a game setting adjustment. It might be the mode difficulty. I would play around with those and you'll find it.
After you play them you just start the cycle again then it's time to make the game harder
Quoted from jorant:
I know.... I'm asking what the horn does and how do I light the purple ring button. Just switch hits during modes I guess? Still baffled by what "light the horn" means.
Switch hits will build the ring. It goes purple when nothing else is available (no mode/lock delay, backstab or light Thorin)
Quoted from Adib:
This group is the best. You guys have all the answers. Here is a question. I have the hobbit smaug edition. What kind of glass does it have? Pdi or invsi? What's the best way to clean .. thanks in advance
Grab some vinegar Windex from Canadian Tire or somewhere like that it works great. I think it's the ammonia in the cleaner that reacts to the glass.
Sometimes game plays get reset during updates. Welcome to the club it's a fantastic game
Quoted from WizardsCastle:
Also, can someone tell me where the posts should be by default factory setting. Mine are here as shown in photos.
And, what rubbers were used on this game as stock? Did they go traditional rubber or silicone?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Lol the original owner needed to shrink the outlanes. Probably sold it because ball times were too high
Quoted from Animal:
Im thinking about buying a Hobbit and one of the things that come up in reviews is there are too many opportunities for multiball. Is there a way to reduce multiballs?
Yep so you can set the lock roll overs to decay lit lock roll overs. I kept mine at the factory setting but removed the outlane posts. Game plays really well, when you have a long game you feel like you earned it. I think my average game time is under 4 min. Before I took the posts out I was getting through all the wizard modes pretty easily.
What modes do you guys go for if your trying to get a good mode score? My strategy is to get resurgence of Sauron then rip spinners and shoot the left ramp when you're getting low on time. You can get 10k+ per ramp. Makes for a lucrative treasure hunt mode too.
Quoted from Modelvisionary:
I got a request to make an Arkenstone using the recessed button on the machine. It's not as impressive as the other two, but I managed to create the same depth of color and brilliance in a more subtle version. Peaking out of the dragon's hoard, glowing just enough for a sharp-eyed Hobbit thief to find it.
It's a bit easier to make which is reflected in the price. I'm extending the One Ring offer for the Low Profile version, total price for both $179.
https://superskillshot.com/products/arkenstone-low-profile-lighted-start-button-for-the-hobbit?_pos=2&_sid=b1466b948&_ss=r[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Is it just the clear ring shooter knobs with the deal or could I choose one of the colored options?
One of them is qualified by completing all the mode qualifiers then hit the blue drop that will cycle around the playfield twice before its too late.
Quoted from GoldenBear:
Haven’t been loving my Hobbit lately ...game times seem awfully long. Nonetheless just ordered the gate mod which may not shorten game times but seems like it should be there giving me more things I can do safely when not in multiball modes. Excited to get it in the machine and give it a try! Thanks for tips
Pull the center and outlane posts. Made my game a lot more fun.
Quoted from screaminr:
Thanks mate , I think I'm in for a lot longer wait than I initially thought .
Yep , lots of people seem happy with their gate mod , I just wouldn't consider one because I never felt ripped off by sdtm drains and the game wasn't designed that way , but each to their own , whatever makes you happy .
I feel the same way. I've set my pop switches super tight so I get lots of action. I also try and nudge it so it feeds the flipper.
I wish they would run another batch of the button plates. I need one on my game!
Co-op would suit this pin very well. For most players starting 32 modes in a game is almost impossible and I bet that in a 4 player game all 4 would hardly ever see the end.
As for the paid dlc forget that. It shouldn't be that hard to code Combining all 4 players mode count.
It would be cool to have the option to do a shared mode pool but have individual scores so you can still have some competition.
As far as online pinball scores go it's all over the place with how people set up the games. Scorebit seems to be best used for local leaderboards.
Quoted from fridgejam:
Help needed to diagnose / fix an issue.
After what appears to be a short which I think was caused by a loose 12v wire that connects to the led strip behind the back box, the entire game crashed and rebooted, resulting in an issue where now the playfield insert lights are sequencing super fast in attract mode (at a guess 5x the normal speed) - example can be viewed here - https://www.dropbox.com/s/ujvx656m7hxab9e/IMG_1482.MOV?dl=0
Apart from this problem, the game appears to still play ok with the insert lighting during game play appearing in the right colours at the right time.
If there is anybody out there who may know how to fix this issue I would love to hear from you.
Those lights sure would attract someone to the game. Glad it's not messing up normal gameplay.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:
Took me 3 years to find a Hobbit close to me here in so cal. I was a bridesmaid at least 10 times with games coming up for sale locally, always second or 3rd in line.
But finally nabbed one this week from great pinsider in san diego.
Black Arrow in the house!
Looking for the Gold ring action button and ring button plate by flipnout pinball. Only mod for now, the sticker on lockdown bar I just dont like.
Let me know if your hoarding extras and want to Sell.
So stoked to be in club.
I don't think they are making the plate anymore. If they are I'd love one and a gold ring button.
Are the parts needed to fix the smaug mouth/movement readily available from hobby shops or more of a specialty part. Thinking I may want to stock up if it's a jjp only thing for the future before its unobtainium.
I set my pop switches to fire with the slightest touch. Makes it much more interesting up there. Also you can nudge the ball out the right side a little easier.
Quoted from pinballslave:
Sounds cool, I've just taken the plunge! It's probably the quickest pinball purchase I've ever made... from having no intention of buying the game to commitment to buy in about 20mins
With as many games as you have in your collection I'm surprised it took you 20 min haha
Welcome to the club!
Quoted from pinballslave:
I really do intend the thin the heard, to at the most half! it's got beyond ridiculous... promised myself I wouldn't buy any more, but found it hard to resist this one... deep down I knew I was lying to myself anyway
Thanks! Looking forwards to getting to grips with this game!
At this point you may as well see how high the number can go
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