(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by Mr_Outlane
  • Topic is favorited by 192 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#825 3 years ago
Quoted from AliciaC:

Got the email today! Hobbit LE with Radcals shipped today

Congratulations! Your gonna Love It. Make sure you check the Smaug Lock drop Zone (where the ball drops from the ramp to the hole) for Mylar or a protection against the ball impact on the playfield. Mine had nothing there and it wouldn't take long to start hammering the play field. Also since you have Rad Cals, make sure you don't use the metal cabinet protectors it comes with ( if they haven't changed it) either add anoth set to what it has or take them off and use the thicker plastic ones. If you don't, the legs will rub on the (thicker) Rad Cals and Mark and cause them to buckle. It happened to me.

#827 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

got pics of the "buckle"?

No I fixed it. Once the legs were removed, I was able to work out the buckle pretty easy. I added another set of metal protectors and that solved it. I reported this to JJP.

1 week later
#948 3 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Since I changed the pf slope to 7 the biggest difference has been that I am not getting as many ball diversions by the rollovers or even the mylar atround the slings and pop ups. I never thought that by increasing the slope, the game would be easier to play, if that makes sense. So at least on TH, a higher slope seems to make the game more agreeable for me.

Same here, raised the the back legs, made a big difference on the the ball walking the pop ups I also installed a playfield protector and that stopped all of the ball walk on the roll overs. Had some ball sticking on the MAN and ELF targets. I adjusted the drop targets up a bit to stop that. It's nice that JJP made those targets individually adjustable for synchronicity. Also I haven't had any beast ball stick problems since I installed the protector. ? So now I have been ball stick free ?

#963 3 years ago

Yep I'm having the same issue. I did alignment with not much change. Quick way to determine if the stronger spring is what you need, hit the plunger with your hand to bottom out the barrel Spring. If you can hit the F then the spring is what you need.

#964 3 years ago

Noticed that Version 1.21 seems to have removed the splashing water in the book display when you hit the barrel bumpers. I really got a kick outta that. Actually I was amazed at the creativity that was involved in that. ?

#991 3 years ago

Really appreciate that link and kit for those beasts Markmon . Got mine ordered and price is right. Thanks

1 week later
#1122 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

My glass is just the opposite. It's not wide enough to fit into rails correctly. Lloyd us looking into it. Compared to my woz cab, th is nearly 1/2" wider and therefore the glass barely touches the side plastic guide. I have to lift it up near the top and pop it into place. Curious if anyone else with woz and hobbit can measure widths to compare.

Yeah my glass has always had to be pushed down on the front to lift it just a bit so it will slide into the rear channel. The factory glued the rear glass channel instead of screwing it down so you can't adjust the rear trim like on my Williams/Bally games.

#1123 3 years ago

Didn't have any side to side play like your talking about. They must have got those glass channels fastened a bit too far apart. Should be an easy fix.

#1218 3 years ago

Hoping 1.30 is coming out today!

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#1222 3 years ago

Awe come on a little electricity when your wet wont hurt ya... Especially when there is a 220v line right underneath you and all that water... Besides the circuit is ground fault protected.

#1224 3 years ago

Very cool I need one those!

#1299 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

For the ramp flaps, what about loosening the ramps up and putting some foam to support the ramp under the ramp flaps?

Strange I haven't had any problems with the flaps at all. I got 200 plays now.

#1303 3 years ago

Nice Display Looks Awesome!

#1304 3 years ago

Hey markmon didn't you post that you turned up your flippers. What setting? I had mine on 24 and once I converted over to Super Bands I got massive air balls. I had to turn them back down to default. Did you see that situation when you went to Super Bands? Highly recommend the Super Bands by the way.

#1306 3 years ago

My shots are more accurate with the Super Bands. More control also.

#1318 3 years ago

Had my lower right flipper start glitching ( when I pressed the flipper button the flipper would flip at full power then drop back a bit and flip again by itself) this just started happening last night but it was consistent through last three games. Went into switch diagnostics and tested EOS and flipper switches. All tested out. Pick up the playfield and started a wiggle test on all the LR flipper coil wires and the lower of the three wires came right off. No doubt a cold soldier joint. If any of you guys see your flippers acting like that check those coil wires.

1 week later
#1447 3 years ago

I adjusted my flipper setting up to 25. Got way too many air balls. Dropped it back to default and went with super bands for the flippers. Major improvement. Just right on the power and accuracy. I really believe that if you turn up those coils too high, it's gonna start wrecking things and it would most certainly prematurely wear out playfield parts. Not to mention the extra pounding the PF itself will get especially if you don't have a protector installed.

#1460 3 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

You won't regret it - it's incredible now and just keeps getting better!

Hey Mike Do It! You won't regret it. If you want to play one with no issues please come play mine!

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#1463 3 years ago

Lance's shipped yesterday! He is Stoked!

#1465 3 years ago

Get the Rad Cals! The look phenomenal!

#1467 3 years ago

One thing I can think of is dealer support. Shipping these games is tricky business and when something is damaged in shipping, dealer support is worth it's weight in gold.

#1494 3 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

ok, upgraded my order to the RAD-CAL's

Your gonna love those. They look like a photograph!

#1495 3 years ago
Quoted from Drenden:

You don't need any additional leg protectors at all.

The only game that needs additional cabinet protectors are the games with Rad Cals. The Rad Cals are thicker than standard cabinet decals therefore when you put on the legs, they hit the cabinet and cause buckling in the Rad Cal. You have to add another set of the metal protectors or use the thick plastic protector. I have found several games now that have buckled Rad Cals.

-1
#1515 3 years ago

I got my game without a protector. I played about 25 games on it and I noticed a few ball divots (due to ball impacts) on the playfield. This is a normal condition in pinball. Since this game was NIB, I wanted to protect the PF from that kind of wear. I suggest getting the factory installed protector since this game plays very fast and the numerous multiballs and air balls.

#1519 3 years ago

Good to know thanks for the info.

#1538 3 years ago

You will be "Jonesin" to put those on man!

#1561 3 years ago

I agree with you. Cables dont go bad in shipping.

#1579 3 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

ow many Smaug SE's did they limit it to? I know LE's are 1500, but what about Smaug.....Were they fewer since they are sold out?

500 SE. 1500 LE

#1581 3 years ago

Hmmm that's interesting....

#1582 3 years ago

I must be mistaken then . Anyone else on that question

#1590 3 years ago
Quoted from c2scanada:

Where on the playfield would you add more mylar?

The Smaug drop into the lock. That is unprotected even with the playfield protector.

#1628 3 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

What are the best mods for the hobbit?

Don't know if they are the best but some good ones: hobbit figures (use 3 3/4 inch) their are several Lord of the Rings / hobbit shooter rods (the one I like is the Ring inside a crystal ball). Tilt Graphics makes a really cool pinblade for Hobbit. I just ordered the gold coin flipper covers from Back Alley Creations. I made a topper out of a real sting sword.

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#1629 3 years ago

Here are the pinblades.

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#1630 3 years ago

The figures.

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#1640 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks like a nice TAF playfied in the one photo!
You should sell it to me (if you are not using it...)

That's an TAFG playfield. It has been restored with three coats of clear. Aside from one tiny dis colored spot in an inconspicuous area, it's perfect. I was going to use it in my machine but my playfield is also so near perfect that it wouldn't be worth it. So unless your doing a gold you won't want this one. Sorry off topic I'll shut up now!

#1645 3 years ago

Helped unbox and set up my friends THLE last night. I was curious on how many of the issues JJP resolved since I opened mine 3 months ago. I was surprised that almost all: ramp flap,wire form, beast inserts, even the cabinet protectors for the leg spacing for Rad Cals Were installed or resolved. The only thing left that was on my list was the shooter rod spring(still too week) My final fix for that on my machine was to add another spring with the factory installed one. (Same one). Perfect tension! So in summation, it was a very good NIB experience just short of perfect. The only issues we found were: the warning decal on the back of the head was peeling at the edges (would not restick), the left side rail was not quite installed right ( the rail should just overlap the cabinet at the top of the PF and it exposed the raw edge there). The rad cal on that side at the front was not quite under the side rail exposing the edge to the rad cal at that spot. Finally the lock bar issue. No problem getting it off but could not get it back on easily. Had adjust it and it still would not fit right. This could be fixed with a few alterations but shouldn't have to. Machine played nice and had 1.31. and the PF protector looked great. Did have to install Mylar at Smaug drop zone.

#1648 3 years ago

That's strange I did not have that problem so I wonder what has changed to create that situation?

#1653 3 years ago

Check to see if the two guide plates inside the mech are aligned. I found in my game that if they are slightly misaligned the beast will intermittently bind when popping up. It's a little tricky to bend the guide plate just a bit but you can do it without removing the mech. There is a side plate on the mech. Just remove the screws and remove it so you can tweak the guide plate. Just be sure that the beast isn't rubbing on the PF or the insert. It's best to block the beast in the up position when doing this.

#1659 3 years ago

The beasts should register a hit when hit them from the front or the rear (back stab). If your beasts are adjusted properly you should be able to back stab each one and get a hit. I can even score a hit sometimes from the side.

#1662 3 years ago

Shooter rod for LOTR fits perfectly.

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#1665 3 years ago

Only if you think it's too floaty. I set mine at 7 just to get a bit more speed and keep the ball out of the outlanes

1 week later
#1757 3 years ago

I used mylar on the Smaug hole Two sheets and no problems

#1782 3 years ago

Didn't have any problems with the Warg hitting my protector and its the aftermarket one. You might have to trim the protector back a bit away from the PF Warg Hole.

#1801 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

recall seeing an extra figure on the barrels in earlier promotional material.
On my Le I only have a single barrel rider figure.
I assume this is normal and hasn't fallen off somewhere?

It's really easy and inexpensive to add a figure to your empty barrel. Just pick up a 3 3/4" Dwarf figure off EBay and take a large sharp butcher knife and severe him at the chest. Dwalin works really well because he has his tool belt that works great for a small screw to hold him in the barrel don't try glueing or epoxy as its not good enough long term to hold the figure in the jumping barrel.

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#1802 3 years ago

Also sometimes you have to add some epoxy to the head to keep it on!

#1871 3 years ago

Make sure the dragon is not rubbing on the ramp. Mine did and I had to adjust the ramp a bit.

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#1958 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

When I would plunge the ball it used to make it to the upper dwarF target - now only the d or w. What do I need to do to make sure it is aligned properly to get the maximum distance?

Here is what I did for the shooter strength. Just double the existing shooter spring. Take another shooter spring like the one from the factory and put them together. It's perfect! You can hit every target and still maintain a delicate touch for the inland shot and lower targets.

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