(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

4 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (4 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (4 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (4 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (4 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (4 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (4 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6533 1 year ago

Apologies, don't mean to derail the issues up above.

I'm coming close to getting either an LE or Black Arrow edition Hobbit, and was wondering if there are differences other than cosmetics, like if one run is newer and more improved over the other? Does anyone have preferences over all in Hobbit versions, Smaug included?

#6536 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Black Arrows in general are going to be newer because they didn’t come along until after the main production run was coming to an end. LEs are all over the place in terms of when they were built - there were some built during the later run and alongside the BAs and there are a few NIB LEs out there amongst distributors. They could be from anywhere in the run especially if you are buying used so you have to see if, for example, they have the beast mech inserts installed either at the factory or added later by the first owner, whereas all the BAs will certainly have them along with the longer drop target springs and so on. As to personal preference, of course that’s up to you. I have a Smaug edition but I happen to like the Hammered darker brown finish on the LEs the best. The BAs have a smooth black finish on the armor which I don’t favor, but the BAs cabinet artwork is great. Rad cals are a matter of personal preference also.

I do like individual aspects of each, but I guess ultimately, production issues guaranteed corrected will guide me most. I love the Smaug, except having to do the installs, and I do appreciate the fact that the Black Arrow also has it's own unique attract mode!

Quoted from wolv3:

The black arrow edition has a swivel monitor and I think the boards might be in the backbox on that version. I love the decals and gold rails on the Smaug the best

Interesting, there's a swivel monitor in the Black Arrow? I hadn't read that before. So you can angle it while playing? Do any other JJP games feature that?

#6538 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

The swivel I think is meant for ease of access and working on that area behind it.

Oh.... because of the boards being moved up there? Is all of that an improvement in design or potentially more impactful due to space and overheating concerns?

#6541 1 year ago
Quoted from Goronic:

My Smaug was done in July 2016 and had all the factory mods - beasts, ramps, etc - so I didn't have to swap out anything. So you can find Smaugs with those installed for sure.

Do you think they're worth the extra $500?

#6551 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What extra $500?

Smaug seems to be $9K currently.....

#6553 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

New in box? I didn’t think anyone even had those left NIB. Used go for $6300-$6800 roughly.

Yup. I've seen a few for 9K, and LE and BA for $8500. I think I'd go BA, cheaper, guaranteed best production model, and also has it's own unique intro animation. Though I love aspects of the other two as well!

I played a few more games yesterday, had prior only played at JJP! Definitely a nice slow walk on a trail, compared to the full out mountain climb of POTC. Different flavors, but both are oh so good....

I might wait till next month to see what WOZ looks like. I want all three, but can only afford one in the next ten months.

#6555 1 year ago
Quoted from Crile1:

BA owners keep saying guarenteed best production model when there is no difference between it and the LE except for cosmetics. C'mon guys.

I've read here and there that LE models had a wide range of manufacturing dates. That said, it should be always printed on the box, correct? I like the side art the best on the LE, Smaug has the neatest name and identity, but possibly issues depending on date, and BA has it's own unique attract mode like Smaug, but the black armor feels a bit high contrast.

They all sport pluses and minues.

(And by guaranteed, I mean ideally no possibility of prior issues, whereas the other two models, depending on the production date, might have issues.)

I don't own any at this point, and really am just trying to decipher which model might be the best choice as a new buyer with all options available.

#6566 1 year ago

I was at the same reveal. The BA Hobbits were announced and then Pat took over and talked about his new cabinet design for DI including everything moving up into the backbox and so on. Black Arrow Hobbits however continued on with the original style as Hobbit and WOZ had been using cabinet and monitor-wise.</blockquote

So all Hobbits are not back box electronics based?

#6569 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

LTG : )

Which model do you feel works best? What are the advantages to having that in the back box versus in the cabinet?

#6572 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Boards in the back box, monitor on a wall mount.

Leaves more room for playfield mechs. Take Hobbit for example. Character pop ups. No metal box on the floor with the boards, they could have used Medieval Madness troll pop ups. Simpler design easier maintenance.
And when servicing the game, if you have the metal cover off of the box. When moving the playfield up or down or front or back, no worry about dragging cables and wires across the boards.
And with the boards in the head. Easier to see things or work on them.
LTG : )

Do you happen to have any photos of examples of both styles?

So I'd wager most Black Arrows would feature the method you prefer, with boards in the back box?

#6601 1 year ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

I feel the same way about a Jurassic World/Park Pin. I would love to see what JJP could do with that, not a huge fan of the old Data East JP, and I have quite the life-size Dinosaur setup to go perfectly with it!

Supposedly Stern might be working on Jurassic World.

#6612 1 year ago

Does anyone have production numbers for the different versions or in total?

I've seen /750 for both Black Arrow and Smaug. Is that the same for the LE also?

#6614 1 year ago
Quoted from meSz:

Smaug had no set number of games made (i.e. 12/750). They made as many games that were ordered up to the deadline (I believe was Dec 2016 or 15 I forget).
Also, Smaug was not made in order. The purchaser could order whatever number they choose and if it wasn’t already taken you got it! I ordered #77 and got it. I could’ve ordered #7777 and if it was available I could’ve got it.

Oh that's interesting!

So are the /750 units entirely not accurate to some degree? Is there a general consensus regarding how many total units were produced?

And I keep asking this in general, but of all the current releases, which order would you buy NIB? I keep zigging and then zagging between Hobbit Black Arrow and a POTC, but I definitely want WOZ and DI too!

#6620 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Seriously man, don’t buy NIB!
I’ve owned all those games but POTC (which I will eventually get), and they are all great and all different. TH is currently my favorite but we also have a WOZ I am learning to enjoy again. DI was -outstanding- and really really fun, just had to move it out for the space.

But you're itching to go in on a new POTC somewhat soon, yes? Why do you recommend going HUO? Less cost and prior issues worked out by the former owner?

I feel like building a pinball supporting roof arcade is clearly the next step for us all!!!

Quoted from meSz:

When it comes to SE no the 750 is not accurate at all. Not sure about BA.
As for NIB, I agree with Rdoyle1978. There are more than enough used ones out there in exceptional condition I would save the money and buy used.
What version, this is just a matter of preference. The BA has some things SE doesn’t but nothing dramatic IMO so go with the one you like.
You’re welcome to come to my place, in Pittsburgh, and play SE if you want. Just PM me.

That's such a kind gesture, and truly appreciated my friend! I've played it at JJP when my friend and I were lucky enough to head there last year for my birthday, and there's a great vape/pinball shop in Sharon that has a Hobbit, and we've gone there twice in the past two weeks to play that and his POTC. I know I'd love to own.....both, it's just finances. Though it is seeming like buying one of the two NIB, and maybe one HUO... might be the smarter move.

Again, thank you so much for that kind offer, it's duly noted! Do you commute to Pittsburgh?

#6622 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m not going to buy POTC NIB though - I put my ad out early so I could talk to some owners, and have already gotten some offers to sell, but I’m not ready to move another machine just yet -
Yes, less $$ and issues already worked out. Buying NIB especially right now will almost guarantee a $1k or $1500 loss. Think about that! That’s almost a whole game!
Sometimes you get mods added in which is a nice-to-have too

Oooooh, I noticed that ad today, at least I think it was yours!

Now I feel like I should buy NIB, just to hook you up for that sound advice!

7 months later
#7666 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Rails are held on with 3m vhb tspe.
Generally you use 2 thin putty knives and blue tape. Some people use a heat gun.
Put tape along the rail and cabinet to protect the finish on the rail and the cabinet
Place a thin 4" knife just under the siderail about 1/2". Place a 1" thin knife on top if the wider one and press it deeply in to cut/loosen the tape little by little.
Carefully lift the rail upwards/outwards as you go with fingers not the knife. They bend easy. Dont pull it down. Pull it up.
Takes about 15-20 mins to remove them.

I'm genuinely surprised rails are attached in such a way. I've been delightfully surprised at how removable most pinball parts seem to be in general.

Thanks for the tip and info as always!

#7682 7 months ago

Made my way into the Club of the Shire Dwellers....FINALLY....today!

One of the last Smaug's free and flying swooped over my way, after months of paying off Pirates, the Shire needed a sliver of existence over in my own personal Hobbit Hole!

Many thanks to all on and off this thread, for offering continuing information, experiences, and above all...a quiet place to rest my furry feet at the end of the day. No place better than in front of Smaug, a most specially greedy, strong and wicked worm!

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#7708 7 months ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Congratulations Wesman, gorgeous game buddy!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

It's an amazing game!
Mine is never leaving.

Quoted from melappels:

Fantastic game have fun !

Thanks much everyone for the kind words and support! I've looked at owning this game since getting back into pinball a couple years back, so I'm really excited!!!

That said, Cliffy's are on order. I haven't seen too many proactive things necessary to ensure the game stays in good shape ahead of time, am I correct in that?

Do I need to place mylar half circles in front of the slings? Mylar in the shooter lane, or I've seen these advertised too, would they be better?


Should I Mist N Shine before waxing, prior to play?

Thanks all to all for reading!

1 week later
#7745 7 months ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Picked smaug gold 34 up a few weeks ago at expo. Broke 3 toes, took the day off, had a beer and just killed smaug today. Pretty awesome.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How did you break your toes? Owie!!

1 month later
#7886 5 months ago

Getting my Cliffy's sooooon!

I haven't found much in this thread regarding installation. I've tried the search function too.

Does anyone have any tips of specific things that need to be done for installation?

#7895 5 months ago

Has anyone placed mylar on their shooter lane for this game?

#7897 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It's not a bad idea on all games.

Do you just cut a sliver and then an extended rectangle, to match the shooter lane? Or just a solid rectangle just past the eject divider area?


Are these overkill? And would they affect installing a Cliffy there?

1 month later
#8091 4 months ago

He seems like a really cool guy! Jealous of the people that get to meet him!!!

#8101 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Well I got around to installing the new ramp flaps and Cliffy's. And you guys were right! It was a PITA! I like how I had to remove the 5 bank drop target assembly so I could remove the VUK assembly so I could get at the post nut under playfield to install the Balin Cliffy. I followed the advice given to me here and the job went extremely well! The 1/8" diameter semi-tubular rivets would not seal tight up against a block of hard wood so I used the butt end of my bench vice. I used the HANSON HT-174 HAND RIVET CLINCHER. There was a little flattening of the rounded top of the rivet, but it looks fine. I replaced all rubbers and waxed as well. Only thing left to do now is install beast door ball stops. I did pick up a 12" nut driver extension to do it. amazon.com link »
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work!

I still need to do this myself, the Cliffy's I mean. Any standout advice?

Did you put mylar in the shooter lane as well?

#8105 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:


No, I didn't put Mylar in shooter lane yet. I will do this when I do the beast door ball stops.

Thanks man!

Cliffy sent me this guide someone had done. Seems pretty effective!


#8107 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Ya, that's a good guide. I didn't get the inlane Cliff'y protectors.
But make sure you clean the wax off around the holes before installing the protectors. There is epoxy on them that needs to bond to the wood. Use Naphtha to remove the wax.

I was waiting to wax it after I got the Cliffy's in. I haven't even played it yet.

These must be a bit, a bit easier to install than the Pirate's Cliffy's. Hope so anyway.

#8109 4 months ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I'm catching up on my pinside favorites. I was over 1000 posts behind on Hobbit. So I just came to the end and saw that my website (www.purcellvillepinball.com) was referenced by Cliff for my photos for his protectors. Kind of cool to see.

Oh nice!

I figured that had to have been written by a pinsider! I asked him for advice, and he sent me the great description by you!

Excellent work, and I hope it helps me when I get to this in a few days!

2 weeks later
#8156 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

backhanding the holes..

Be a kinder Pimp, please....

#8160 3 months ago

Question for folks here.

Getting ready to install the second half of my Cliffys, and was wondering what people's thoughts are on placing mylar down WITH the shooter lane Cliffy set. Is it necessary or redundant?

Thanks for reading!

#8162 3 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I added mylar to the shooter lane (in addition to cliffys). Also, the right VUK isn't too bad - but the left you have to remove more - so expect an hour or so for that side.
I also added a small 1 inch block of mylar right in front of the captive ball.

An hour....... *gasp*

I took about 2-3 on the right. I had a bit of an issue getting those posts out, then in. At some point I had to grip them on the top while unscrewing on the bottom side. Forgot about that.....

Oh cool! Definitely makes sense in front of the captive ball!

And for the shooter lane, did you cut out a V shape or just a rectangle to go in front of the switch? Did you place it under the Cliffys?

Thanks again!

#8165 3 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

It was a rectangular piece that is in the lane above the cliffy (but not under)
The right is much easier - and it isn't exactly a quick job.
EDIT: Added a picture to show approximately where I placed mylar.[quoted image]

oh that graphic is excellent! Thank you so much!

Smaug mylar is in, and I'm headed for those nuts!

My Green sculpt was a bit tough to jostle loose and over the screws. Had to use a screwdriver head to pry them off a bit. Moving forward!

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#8166 3 months ago

Hmm. Any easier way to get at this nut, when moving the VUK? This bugger is way back under the drop targets...

Edit. Got it....though it fell into the subway, of course!
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#8171 3 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I cant recall if I had a different way to get to it. All I remember is that is a major pain in the ass to get what you need off to get the cliffy installed on the left VUK. But once you get it, it will be nice to have it on there.
That said - I really wish that JJP would have done it at the factory during the builds for Hobbits built after the cliffy's were available.

Yeah, putting this shit in, taking a game apart, prior to even playing the damn thing....is a total bummer.

Thank you to everyone that helped! Cliffy is in, just reassembly and finding a missing screw and tnut.......for tomorrow.

Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I just removed the drop target bank. It's easy. Just unplug it and cut a couple tie straps and remove the four screws. I hate dropping screws! Especially into the subway..LOL!

Oh man. I think I'll do that tomorrow, as when putting those tiny VUK screws back in, they all kept seeming to go in at slight angles..... Kinda feel that would be an issue for a tight VUK seal.

Going to pick this up tomorrow before work, and snake my tunnels! So many screws, definitely easier to magna snake!


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#8172 3 months ago

Hmmm. Sling mylar or no? If so, wax first?

Anyone have any good videos on waxing? I keep trying to find them. I don't feel I'm a competent waxer.

#8178 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Clean. Then one coat wax.
LTG : )

Mist N Shine and a good quality paper towel can to clean up first?

Thanks everyone for the recommendations!

Quoted from Reaper802:

Buffalo Pinball has a good YouTube video on waxing.

And yeah, I remember watching this a ways back. Awesome recommendation!

#8180 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

No, not for this. Clean and good carnauba wax.
LTG : )

Just water on a rag to clean?

Or something harder like naptha? I haven't played this yet. Only had 2 games on it from the factory. NIB.

#8183 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

only 2 games?
Sparkle on a rag followed by a paper towel.
Then one coat of wax that's as thin as a fingerprint.
Let dry 30-40 mins wipe off the wax with a microfiber cloth, buff to a better shine with a clean flannel cloth.
You can wax plastic ramps, wireforms, playfield or pretty much anything solid.
Doing this preserves its newness longer.
Just get all the wax off with a rag and a toothbrush for corners.
check audits and do this again at 350 plays.

Yup. 2 games were from the factory. I've been waiting to put my Cliffy's in, and finally am!

Thanks for the tips, as always! I really wish I could pinball apprentice with some of you guys....I have so much to learn and develop!

#8187 3 months ago

Stupid question...

I'm assuming these beast mech ties are cut off, yes? They seem to go up freely.

The game had been sent back to JJP in 2016 to have the white spacers put in, ramp fixed, and when it was sent to me last October, the ties were already cut.

Problem is, beasts don't seem to be firing fully, or at all, during tests.

Late night finding my one nut, and tnut, then losing the tnut again....looking for an hour to no avail, then doing some quick switch tests. So I'm not entirely sure what's going on, or not, presently...

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#8189 3 months ago
Quoted from jorant:

The mechs fire in the test menu when you close the door. You can highlight one, then close the coin door and they go up. There may be a better more correct way, but that's what I've seen. Is that possibly what is happening?

I was closing the door, then pressing start. I know one went up about halfway. Others didn't seem to be firing.

I've got my whole damn workshift to get through before I can get home and try and test them again.........

I'd just start a game, but I need to still install my shooter rail Cliffy, plastic protectors, and clean and wax. I wasted so much time trying to find loose parts last night.

#8191 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Putting a towel down when working on either the top or inside the cab saves hours of looking for small dropped parts.

Good tip!

Yes.....I am a master loser at this point, less a finder.

You think I'll have any issue with the right post, the one that hooks into the right side of the VUK wireform, not having a tnut ground it?

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#8197 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd take the glass off. Start a game. Then hit the lower lane switches that fire them, see if they work then.
If not please be sure they move up and down freely. Then at the bottom of the mech, loosen the bolt, and turn the rubber stopper looking thing up a little and then tighten the bolt. And try again.
LTG : )

Awesome as usual LTG! Definitely counting down the hours from work to get home and try these options!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Buy another tnut at home depot.
Find the lost one when you vacuum tha cab out after waxing.
(Yes you should vacuum the playfield or blow it off with air and the vacuum cab out after waxing.)
Keeps from building up white dust.

So....the tnut fell out, when I tried to put it back in, and screw the post in. I tried pressing the tnut in via where the tnut pricks were in prior, used the bottom of the VUK coil, the flat end of the metal to press it in a bit. Just wouldn't stay in obviously....


Quoted from pinballinreno:

Tested manually They should drop like a rock.
No binding at all.
Then check adjustments/cut wires/loose switches/stop nut adjustment etc.

They definitely seem to lower. Going to have to check more when I get home....

#8199 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Is this a playfield t-nut underneath into the plywood?
If so:
They are hamnered in initially and can be reset with a bolt and a couple fender washers if there is room.
Alternatively, if there is room, push the t-nut back in.
Rotate it so that the prongs go back into their original holes.
Screw a gold playfield screw next to it so that the screw head hold the t-nut in. You will see this on other t-nuts.
It there is no room, epoxy the t-nut in. Let it dry 4 hours.
Be careful installing the post to keep ftom pushing it back out.
Re-glue as needed.
Check the t-nut threads so that the post screws in easily.
If the threads are trashed from cross theading replace the t-nut and post.
Adding a drop of oil will make it smoother/easier to tighten.

Phew! Excellent tips, gonna go deep diving to find this bugger again, when I get home in 30!

#8200 3 months ago

Not exactly pretty, but I found the tnut! And I could only wedge it back so far in, but was able to screw the post in topside.

So.....this should suffice, yes?

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#8201 3 months ago

Tidied up that left Cliffy last night! Just tge shooter lane, mylar in the lane, slings, in front of the captive ball, replace the captive ball due to rust pitting, plastic protectors, and then clean and wax....WOOHOO!!! So close!

I did free up the goblin popup. Seems there was a white tie remnant that needed jostled loose.

I also rearranged a wire for less pull when he pops up.

I did notice this wire had some rough spots on it, and saw things like this could be an issue with those mechs. Would mesh loom work well in protecting these types of spots?

Screenshot_20200221-171244_Photos (resized).jpg
#8207 3 months ago

Does anyone have any tips for removing the captive ball?

I read this thread, tried bonking it a few times with 2 nut drivers, didn't budge.


My ball also came off, and the post stayed in. I tried also using pliers to turn it and raise it more....as the user in that thread had his post higher than mine.

#8211 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Do you have a drill with a slow speed ? Clamp it on and try and unscrew it.
Otherwise a punch from below. Tap lightly with something wood or plastic. Not metal, that tends to be harder on the wood.
LTG : )

What would I use to clamp onto that top part, where the ball used to be?

The post is flush with the playfield, not as highly removed as the person in that thread. So do the post threads need pushed/pulled out more?

Is there a type of vice grip I can lock onto the post with to twist and pull it out?

Or does drill pushing it from below make more sense? I don't really have a drill....yet.

Thanks to you both for your input, by the way.

#8213 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I meant from the top. Grab the post with your drill chuck and slowly turn it counterclockwise.

Small vice grip works, clamp it onto the post and unscrew the post. From above the playfield.
LTG : )

Would something like this work...?


#8215 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes, if there is room in the game around the post.
LTG : )

Definitely is.

Would this work better than needlenose pliers? I couldn't grip onto that post for shit....

#8218 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:


Oh you'll lock that shit on the post with a vice grip.
LTG : )

Will do tomorrow! Couldn't grab onto it for shit with pliers......

#8223 3 months ago

No movement at all with pliers, topside or bottom.

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#8224 3 months ago

I give....

I tried getting resistance with a rubber band and paper towel even. All I get are shards off this thing, no movement.

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#8226 3 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

That really is in there tight. I would just start tapping from the bottom until it began to move up. It may take a while but it will eventually

Using two nut drivers from the bottom?

What if that screw is enlarged for some reason?

#8227 3 months ago
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#8228 3 months ago

Or...I'm guessing that ridge is the base of the topside part.

#8230 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Sorry. Time to WHACK that sucker harder.
Or put the ball back on. I had one on a TOM years ago. Ball popped off. I draped two pieces of solder across the top in a cross shape and down each side. Pounded the ball back on. Never came off again.
LTG : )


#8235 3 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Gotcha , from looking at the pictures it looks the opposite way , so what about just wacking the new ball on to the post .

Quoted from LTG:

If he's scared to whack it up harder, that is what my post #8229 suggested.
LTG : )

Hey gents!

Yeah, I gave up. I gave it some whacks yesterday, nothing. Then today, dozens of light whacks, then a good dozen or two harder whacks. Wouldn't move...

I figure tnuts being installed were thrust in way, way harder, yet I still didn't want to whack full on. There are some splintered areas, small ones, near screws and such, so clearly maniacs went nuts when installing everything.

I decided to mylar then wax on, and off. Played some games with my friend, finally!!!

Definitely need to up the back legs, it's flat on all legs currently. And the shooter rod spring is definitely weak too.

I also want to change the 2032 battery in the PC, and make sure the wires aren't chaffing on the popup mechs.

Other than that, Cliffys and plastic protectors installed. Waxed, mylared, and man this game has such great code and fun assets!!!

JJP just produces pins on an entirely different level than any other modern or past manufacturer. I truly do love the effort everyone that works for JJP puts in...!

20200227_014101 (resized).jpg
#8236 3 months ago

Oh yeah, and my ring button isn't registering.

I assume bending the leaf switch up on that will correct this issue?

#8238 3 months ago
Quoted from Jeekayjay:

Finally broke a mill for the first time! Super sweaty taint afterward!
Previous GC was 800k
Man what an awesome game...
[quoted image]

Reading through old posts just to pick up general info and tips regarding game tweaks and....

Damn, time to buy a short fan that can point upwards, it seems....hahahha!!!

#8241 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

If he's scared to whack it up harder, that is what my post #8229 suggested.
LTG : )

Can you buy newton balls, with just the hole, and not the posts? I haven't found any online...

These look amazing! I might try them down the road...thank you for the recommendation! Have you used them yourself?

Quoted from screaminr:

I always wondered how the captive ball was attached . That link should be a key Post .
I was told in this thread to add a washer to the top of the Beast Mech's that attach to the Playfield , to stop the wires being chopped like what happened to me , I had some pictures but I can't find them but I'll have another look . Good luck with everything Wesman .

Thanks for the kind words friend! I found the posts and photos in this thread that you recommended. Did this fix resolve your issue or did you just use electrical tape?

Quoted from Goronic:

Probably a leaf switch adjustment - also, there is a screw on the bottom of the button to adjust it to make it longer to better make contact with the switch.
Also make sure the wires are firmly plugged in.

Definitely going to try that when I get home..! I had to extend the screw button a bit on my POTC.

#8247 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Make one. Take a ball. Drill a hole in it.
LTG : )

And by underestimate...I mean OVER!!!

Damn, yeah...I don't know if I have the silver balls, to drill into silver balls Lloyd!

zmc4v9fqvyyz (resized).jpg
#8248 3 months ago
Quoted from metahugh:

Absolutely. I was doing a playfield swap last year and I had a brand new hex head screw break off in the playfield. They saved the day!

Man, I might return my $10 pair, and invest in these $40 one's. They seem to be worth it! Looks like they have a rubber grip on the teeth, yes?

Side note...!

Leveled my game a bit last night, via the android Pinball Leveller app. Was aiming for 6.9/7. Definitely got that high on the mid to upper part of the game, not near the flippers though. That was lower....

Changed my 3 year plus old 2032 motherboard battery! That wasn't too tough, though the metal lid had sunk on quite firmly on the right side, over the years... And yeah, that motherboard fan is a bit close, and fast!

Gripped the button and lowered the screw, which helped make contact for the ring switch! Man, I wish they'd put some rubber on those plastic button shafts or use a screw without teeth behind it.

And finally, I approached the definitely chaffing upper left pop up beast. Always forget if that's a goblin or orc! The white wire tie had been cut away by someone, so the green and white wires were roaming freely on the mech. Managed to snug in, for now anyway, some smallish mesh loom around the wires, and it still fires okay..!

20200228_000138 (resized).jpg20200228_001456 (resized).jpg
#8251 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I would play it a bit. To be sure all working. Then update it. That way if something isn't working. You know it was fine before the update.
And when you update the game. Follow carefully the instructions on the website. jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Hobbit. The only thing available is the 3.10 Full Install.
LTG : )

And definitely don't restart your PC with the update loaded, it'll start rewriting your computer!

Also, you might want to look into changing the motherboards battery. It's a typical car fob, 2032 style battery. PM me if you want tips, I just did mine a couple days back.

#8254 3 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

New owner question.... is the loud ratcheting sounds normal? Sheesh.
Sounds like plastic gears grinding? I've seen spotty mentioning of this here and there - with no real explanation.

From Smaug?

#8256 3 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Yes, Sorry. Smaug Gold Edition.

I meant, is the sounds emanating from him or elsewhere?

#8259 3 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Coming from inside the cabinet. Like Lloyd mentioned I think it's every time the drops reset. Sounds kind of like a toy machine gun... "pfffffttttt".
But it's loud. HUO owner said it was typical. I just figure it was what had been mentioned a little here and there over the past 4 years on this string.

Yup. The drop targets are really loud by nature.

#8284 87 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

Get both. Both crazy different gameplay.

Quoted from 3pinballs:

You guys like DI or Hobbit better? @ Jorant too.

Keep Hobbit and GET a Dialed In!

#8289 86 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

I'll tell you this about Hobbit.

And so will Gary.....


#8294 86 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

By the way, I heard somewhere that JJP has a code update for wireless network support for game updates, manual updates, scores? etc. and that all 5 of the JJP machines would get the update.
Any news on that?
And I wonder if there is a few more code nuggets in store for Hobbit when that happens . . .

It's just beta code for access to updates via wifi. I haven't heard anything more than that, code wise though.

3 weeks later
#8371 62 days ago

Tried searching for answers before asking...

I have about 30 or 40 games on my new Smaug, and suddenly the trough is having issues kicking. Looks like it's firing and hitting the front tab of the trough just before entering the shooter lane.

I've tried lowering it, to see if it was firing too hard, and also raised it a bit.

I read people had issues after the 2.0 update, but that was long ago.

#8384 61 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Bending the tab helps this.
As well as lowering the coil power.
There is a WOZ primer on this somewhere.
Its the same setup.
LTG ususlly has a link to this.

Daaaaaaaamn! You two were spot on!

I forgot, and didn't mention that I'd say between play, I'd raised the pitch quite a bit. From back legs all the way down, to 7.0.

That MUST be the culprit! Stupidly, hadn't even thought of that as a possible issue. (Time to lower those legs a bit....)

2 weeks later
#8474 47 days ago
Quoted from Tiltboss:

right right cuz u always preface something with its real tricky not buyin.. but its cool. like i said im used to forum sop. and it didnt “offend me” it made me laugh so i talked shit back ‍♂️
now here is the hard part see the support word lol. bro i can get crass and sarcastic woth the best of em so please miss me with the “i was concerned with ur ESL status” lmaooooo that just makes u look even more fulla shit

I'm assuming your posts are satire.

But there is a weird spot when downloading the updates, where there's a rollover menu for selecting the game, that gets a bit hidden. It's somewhat confusing on the page.

LTG is handsdown the nicest, most helpful person on this forum. Not only is your fury directed inappropriately, but it's insulting to anyone that Lloyd has gone out of his way for, endlessly so, over the years.

#8481 47 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Hey wesman, I see you have both Hobbit and Pirates. I would really like to get a pirates also. How do you compare the two - is pirates way better or are they too different to really compare. Which do you prefer to play?

Different for sure! Hobbit has such a grand presentation, that sucks you into that world. POTC has so many unique shots, and targets, where you feel more like you're hunting shots, more so than living in the realm of the film, like Hobbit.

Quoted from LTG:

Sorry for butting in. At my arcade, Pirates is a great game. But people come in specifically to play Hobbit. It has a loyal following here.
People will play Pirates, though not many come in specifically for it.
I thought a different perspective might help. Because they are both really different from each other.
LTG : )

It's funny, as POTC seems a bit of a sleeper in the public eye. On here, it's legendary, but in the wild it's just another game...

Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

I know it's been said a dozen times... but for me, Hobbit and POTC just play completely different. I own both, and love the fact of how incomparable they are. I really took notice of LTG's comment about the dedicated following for Hobbit. During the lock down, I now have to use Zoom for many meetings. Over my shoulder everyone can see 3 of my pins - Hobbit, POTC, and Beatles lined up. The first pin everyone comments on is Hobbit. "Hey the Hobbit!!" "Is that a pinball machine?" - usually in that order. And they want to talk about the Hobbit near exclusively. Too Funny.

I really haven't seen many Hobbit's out in the wild. It's definitely a brighter table, and feels a bit shiny compared to POTC, but the waving lights on POTC, and Dialed In, always capture my eyes.

#8485 46 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

Lloyd was pretty blatant in his post. "Its very tricky," then later saying, "still with me?" The epitome of condescending. And then to say, after all that nonsense, that he didnt think english was his first language? What kind of apology/excuse is that? A bad one. But then again, maybe english isn't Lloyds first language?

So all the insults he hurled his way don't irk you?

His grammar and punctuation were either blatantly awful or inadvertently so. Lloyd was nice enough to choose the latter.

Let's all leave this behind, please, Hobbits appreciate peace, tranquility, and a good fire and tea for fuck's sake!!!

Look at this mofo. He's a peace luvin', pipe smokin', confrontation avoiding hairy footed loverboy....much like LTG!

947a2f63b80952628d7debb7255e5330 (resized).jpg
#8489 46 days ago
Quoted from Crile1:

I have both and I put Hobbit over POTC. But both are great. I just love Hobbit. It is my favorite game. It pulls me in like no other. Pirates is a fantastic shooter and faster/quicker game. The thing I like about POTC is that I can just play it. It is so deep and wide that I can decide to try to focus on one movie to get through or try to get the 6 multis at one time, or try out a new character. But despite all it's great shots and mechs, there are no "moments" in POTC that compare to Killing Smaug, or starting any of the Arkenstone Modes. Heck, just Smaug's smirky comebacks at the game over sequence beats any JJPOTC moment as far as just pure fun. There is nothing like battling Hobbit for 30 minutes or more, just missing setting a new GC and then have Smaug insult you. Makes you want to start back again. All that being said, JJPOTC has so much going on, it is truly never the same game twice.

Man, I've accomplished NONE of that in Hobbit so far.....

I do feel like it's really theme versus shots. The Map shot in POTC is one of my favorite repeatable loop shots in pinball!

#8506 43 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

I bought the Servo for the mouth of Smaug from JJP about a month ago. They had plenty in stock. But remember, they are now in the middle or nearing the end of their move to Chicago. I think the servo was around $35 or something like that. I haven't replaced mine yet. Unbelievably I'm just as busy with my job as ever and haven't been able to take advantage of the "Pause".

Kinda sucks, doesn't it? I envy all the people able to live a proper Hobbit lifestyle.

Yet not having stable income, would be far, far more unsettling.

#8525 41 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Ya, I considered that. So it looks like future Hobbits will get ping pong balls with faces drawn on or something like that. I assume JJP isn't planning on stocking them forever.

Shouldn't these actually be pretty straightforward to print, and then paint?

#8527 40 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Actually plenty easy to mold and use casting resin.
Make your own character heads!

I meant using a 3D printer. If someone designed a 3D model for each, I'd assume given the right print material, they'd be similar in quality to the originals.

3 weeks later
#8654 15 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Marketplace postings are slowing way down and people are looking more for trades. Nothing new being made. People want something to do.

Same for Pirates, which had been out there and pricy, for awhile now.

#8681 8 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Pitch on mine is 7.5. Required fine tuning flipper power (tuned to barely being able to get the ball up the ramp) as to not make it "Easy".
Seriously guys I'm not being modest. I truly am an average player and this is also why I stressed why it's so very important to learn the best way to advance. Stacking I guess, but that infers intentional behavior and some come as freebies so to speak. Start Smaug MB, next shot to the right ramp starts a mode (now you have two modes going) and if you can keep the MB going long enough you will likely successfully complete said second mode allowing jackpots. Also very likely to happen is collecting all dwarves so when Smaug MB ends you go right into Feast frenzy. Smaug MB (to me anyway) can be one of the most powerful stepping stones in the game.
You have that many modes going you gain serious points real quick. Too lazy to look it up but I did a fairly large write up on this thread of what I use.
Doesn't make it the holy grail but it definitely works for me. Oh, and when in MB keep your eye on the right drain as that's like a damn magnet in that game.

Man that's steep! Did you have to modify the trough so it could kick balls freely?

#8694 6 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have a separate USB drive i used for the backups.
I copy them to a folder on my pc.
I make a backup evetytime i get a new high score or make settings changes.
Its a really nice service.
Very easy to backup and restore.
I would try it a few times to get comfortable with it.

Really nicely surprised Houdini auto backs up it's scores and settings. I wish JJP adopted this method also.

#8732 1 day ago

You folks at 7.2 and such, did you have to bend the ball trough a bit for balls to shoot out properly?

I think I need to do that, after having lowered it back down some, and it still smacking the trough.

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