(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

5 years ago

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16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (5 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (5 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (5 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (5 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (5 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (5 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (5 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (5 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)

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#8940 1 year ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Any 80mm pc case fan will work. Most people like noctua because they are made to be very quiet. If you replace the stock one, I recommend connecting it to the sysfan header on the motherboard. JJP directly wires their fan to power, but the motherboard will throttle the fan and it’ll be even quieter.
amazon.com link »

Thanks for the link - I'll have to give it a shot

Added 12 months ago:

This mod works wonderfully to quiet down the game when you're not playing it. Mine sits behind me all day in my office, so this was quite welcome! I connected it to the motherboard connector as well and that was very simple with no wiring mods needed.

#8977 1 year ago

Might anyone know for sure what brand/color powder coat came on the bronze vein armored LE?

Perhaps this one? https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/EVS-4485/us-penny-vein

Added 13 months ago:

Working with Matt at Back Alley Creations, he's confident it's actually Tiger brand - “Copper Hybrid antique/vein 09/90180"

Added 12 months ago:

It was definitely NOT Tiger brand. Matt at Back Alley sent me a coin door with that color. Completely wrong "texture" - the grain/vein was too fine. I'm still thinking it's likely to be that Prismatic Penny Vein... need someone (else) to try it....

#8999 1 year ago
Quoted from Dreadreaper:

I just applied the JB weld we will see if she holds. If not I'll take it to get welded.... or apply zap straps lol.

Here's how the zip ties worked for my temporary 'fix' to the diverter interference issue.

IMG_2174 (resized).jpgIMG_2177 (resized).jpgIMG_2179 (resized).jpg
#9012 1 year ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

I need help, fellow Hobbitses.
My playfield lights and Smaug frequently lock up during gameplay. You can see an example of it here: https://www.twitch.tv/videos/491641015?t=828s
(It happened a few other times during that stream too).
I’ve heard it may be an issue with the BAG board so I reseated connections on it and replaced the USB cable, but it’s still happening. I was going to bite the bullet and buy a new BAG board but I don’t see any on the JJP site. Any troubleshooting recommendations appreciated. Thank you!

KevInBuffalo - did you end up having to replace that BAG board? I'm experiencing mid-game freeze-up of all the playfield lights... I've not noticed if Smaug freezes up at the same time though...

#9033 1 year ago
Quoted from GTO:

Now, what are the must have mods? I've seen:
-Lior barrel legs (I must have this)
-Ring button plaque (need to get this as well)
-Bilbo's home (getting this)
-New shooter rod handle (can't believe they went so cheap with the stock one)
-Lior's book cover (probably not, I'm okay with the stock book cover)
-Barrel spotlights (maybe?)
Any others I'm not aware of?

I personally think the Throne of Erebor mod is a gorgeous mod and suits the original sculpts beautifully - and I'd say the price is a steal at https://www.pixelsarcadegames.com/product/hobbit-pinball-erebor-throne-mod/

IMG_2164 (resized).jpgIMG_2169 (resized).jpg
#9075 1 year ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

For anyone following along with my saga, new BAG board did not resolve the random LED + Smaug issues. Not sure where to go from here. I've reseated all BAG board connections (obviously), all Smaug connections, all "bulk head" (back of PC box) connections. Anything else that could be causing these constantly-changing light problems? Or is there anyone in the Midwest that wants a good deal on a Hobbit? (It was working great 3 weeks ago )
Losing my patience with this thing.
Edit: Unplugged the ethernet from Smaug and having better luck now, the game is playable again! I had tried this before, so it may have been a combination of BAG board + Smaug? We'll see, just very excited about being able to play my first full game in a while on it, needed a reminder of how fun the game is (even if this is short lived).

nogoodnames222 & KevInBuffalo tronlover - I've been troubleshooting with JJP's Jim S a very similar issue to one y'all described with my playfield lights freezing up randomly (in-game only; never during attract) and Smaug's mouth working intermittently. I unplugged the ethernet from Smaug based on nogoodnames222's experience that seems to stop the lights from freezing (no failures after basically a full day of playing to try and re-create the failure and a new CG to boot...) I re-loaded the software and tried a different BAG to Smaug cable with the same symptom. So I suppose in my mind that might narrow the culprits down to:
1. The Smaug board/connections
2. The BAG board
3. Software 3.10 (seems unlikely given the number of people NOT having this issue, but perhaps it could be in conjunction with certain hardware versions - mine is LE built in Feb 2016, BAG board is p/n 15-0033-00 v.1.1).

What is the status of y'all's machines - got a most likely culprit in mind or suggestions if yours is fixed? Did y'all all first notice this on ver. 3.10 code? When I got my machine 2 weeks ago it had original code on it and I went straight to 3.10 so I have no idea if it would have behaved this way on earlier code...


Added 12 months ago:

After adding a rubber band to Smaug's mouth mechanism to counterbalance the weight of his jaw, the playfield lights don't freeze any more. It's been about two weeks of playing and have not been able to repeat the playfield lights freezing since I got Smaug's mouth working reliably with this rubber band "hack"... It's always possible the process of removing him and re-installing him fixed something as well, but none of his connectors had anything fishy going on that I could tell...

1 week later
#9198 1 year ago

pinballinreno 7.1 degrees WHERE? My playfield seems to be bowed by about a degree from the ramps to the flippers... I currently have it set at 7.5-ish at the ramps and 6.5-ish at the flippers. Shoots good enough for my skill level I think?

Anyone else have this kind of inclination difference from the top to the bottom of the playfield?

#9229 1 year ago
Quoted from BazilBLast:

Someone on the GNR hype thread said The Hobbit Playfield was bare and lacked shots .
I thought I would correct him .
Did I miss anything .
[quoted image]

LOL - this is great. Everyone's obsessed with subways - might as well mention those too And doesn't that mean 4 holes? Balin, Radagast, Smaug & Erebor? hmmm...

1 week later
#9284 1 year ago

Unsolicited status update

I replaced my ramp assembly (5 broken welds on the original) and got a chance to install Chuck’s Bag End mod and Lior’s Book/Stand and Barrel Legs mods at the same time.

I’ve also been troubleshooting Smaug’s mouth and hoping it’s somehow related to my lights freezing since that’s all through the BAG board. I added a little counterbalancing rubber band to offset the weight of his mouth. That addition dramatically improved the mechanism’s performance. No freezes yet, but could be jinxing myself

175291D4-5E69-4E3E-930C-1AE543E50626 (resized).jpeg Added 12 months ago:

Two weeks later and the playfield lights freezing has not recurred. There may actually be a link between Smaug's mouth movement and that issue. Other folks have had other causes/fixes, though, so it's seems somewhat plausible that it could still just be related to removing him and re-installing him.

#9288 1 year ago
Quoted from GTO:

I was also thinking of getting the Bag End mod. Do you think it affects visibility into the pop bumpers area very much? That has been my main concern with getting it.

I would say not at all (see gamer's-eye view attached) - What it covers up is the transparent section of plastics and Dwalin's face on the playfield back there between the pops. You still see if the ball is coming straight back at you or out to the right flipper, so I'd call it 'just right' sized. Plus, Chuck was super cool to work with when the first one I ordered had an issue in shipping.

I'd really like for someone (other than me) to 'mod the mod' with model train foliage and such to make it more lush, but I digress

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2 weeks later
#9343 11 months ago
Quoted from jorant:

So I had the hest game ever, yesterday, and discovered that there is literally no limit to your ring button value when lit purple. When in a mode, every 10 switch hits will charge the ring up and the value keeps going for seemingly ever. I was cashing in as high as 14,000 points per button press. It got to the point that nothing in the game was scoring as much as me charging the button. I'd just hit an orbit spinner and hit that button like I was collecting pizzas or shooting down tie fighters.
My final score was just a hair south of 4 million, and that was with only getting to one wizard mode and doing terrible therein (scored like 150k).

I have never once hit the ring button for points...

3 weeks later
#9423 11 months ago

Try turning all the volumes on the outside and on the inside way up. Mine needs to be 40+ to be the right volume level.

Quoted from Thot:

nothing happens when i plug a headphone in the jack on the front of the pin, lights are on, i can made plus or minus and lights change good but no sound on headphones and normal sound still on speakers, rj45 cables are solid in boards, any idea?

#9426 11 months ago

Neat! Where did you mount the driver board and such? Pics of that?

PS - I like your taste in mods! Hope you can get Lior’s barrel legs and book stand mods so we can match haha

Quoted from Fred550:

Hello, the community of the ring!
I added an extra screen on my Hobbit LE pinball machine.
We are more focused on the set with all the information on the small screen.
Like me, enjoy this mod.
I'll give you all the details you need to add the extra screen.
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link » 2x
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link » [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#9429 11 months ago

Just message Lior - in EU I think it’s through a particular dealer

Here’s the thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-the-hobbit-sculpted-pinball-mods-by-the-art-of-pinball

Quoted from Fred550:

I will make other detailed photos
can you tell me where i can find the mods
thanks again

#9434 11 months ago

You're smart to go with BA edition - you know it's already got all the little mechanical reliability "fixes"!

Quoted from zaphX:

I joined the club today with Black Arrow #224![quoted image]

#9438 11 months ago

IMHO - Hobbit's one of the few games that doesn't need pinstadiums - it's super well lit out of the box... I'd just take 'em out if I were you...

Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

This is how I found the pinstadiums the two red (flashers) not connected at all. And the GI only had one connected (I connected the other in the one of the pics) and it seems that pinstadium recommended the left side of the playfield and this is connected to one on the lower right. Do you just shove them into the same slot as the existing wires? It seems loose. Or tape them? They don’t seem to be working other than one side flashes purple occasionally. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

2 weeks later
#9473 10 months ago

Perhaps the Titan “Low Bounce” flipper ring variant behaves like the Perfect Play rings?

Quoted from pinballinreno:

The way they play.
However I have super bands on my IJ (tough to install) and they work well.
Urethane has a "dead bounce" feel, it works pretty good on a lot of games.
I choose flipper fubbers based upon how they play on each particular game.
Some games need bounce, some need less bounce, some need ball control etc.
I have Titan purple on my Houdini.
Perfect Play on my WOZ and TH.

#9486 10 months ago

Fred550 - thanks for the pics - awesome job with the mod!

Quoted from Fred550:

Hello everyone, I have been asked for pictures of the installation of the second screen I hope this will help you have a good weekend
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

1 week later
#9514 10 months ago

Sounds like maybe RGB board A J101 and J102 got reversed?

Quoted from Vernisious:

Oh, I see. I'm referring to the single magnet above the playfield on the ramp that locks for Smaug multiball. I loosened the two nuts for the assembly and was able to force it to sit flush with the ramp. Thanks LTG and punkin!
I still am unsure how the change the lights from mystery to bombur and two others. Can I unplug the wires going to each rgb led board or do I need to unscrew the board and put them in the correct place?

Screen Shot 2020-12-20 at 6.53.00 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-12-20 at 6.54.42 PM (resized).png
#9516 10 months ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

trumpanche. That did it! It was tough to tell which board was A. I messed up the arkenstone lights on board C and then guessed correctly the second time. Thank you all so much. I love this game and the community!

Yay! You’re quite welcome - It’s my favorite game for sure

#9525 10 months ago
Quoted from Furio:

I have an interesting issue that is popping up on occasion. It's rare enough that I can't simply call my shop guy out to take a look. During gameplay, usually after a decent game, often after the first Wizard mode, the lights across the entire game all come on and stay a single color. Similar to dying to Smaug's breath where they burn up red. However, the bug is that they don't reset and everything stays lit and none of the features or ques are active for any modes from that point forward. It makes continuing on that game near impossible once you have trained yourself to look for the ques. Once you do a hard (powered)reset, everything works fine again for what could be a several day span, 20-40 games before you see it happen again. That makes this hard to troubleshoot.
I am going to update code and see if there is something buggy there by chance.
My only other issue on this game is Smaug tests fine but doesn't want to turn and speak all the time. Mostly we think that's just a loose wire as whenever we fiddle with the connection he works fine for a bit then it stops again. What would be the best method for securing that wire? A bit of hot glue?


I had this same problem! Smaug's mouth movement was unreliable and playfield lights freeze up occasionally and would require a power cycle to recover.

I'll tell you what fixed it for me, and I realize it sounds stupid, but the issue has never recurred since (a couple months) - it was a rubber band.

My THEORY is the Smaug mouth mechanism has gotten wonky over time (or perhaps just by design) and sticks/binds a bit, and that causes issues with the struggling servo motor that has a communication link back to the BAG board (yellow ethernet cable). My Smaug mouth wouldn't close reliably by small increments (playing with it in Test mode), but it would make big position jumps open and closed OK, but it would hang and audibly struggle to achieve the next desired position/increment when commanded in the 'mouth closing' direction. It's also important to note that I could NEVER recreate the playfield lights freezing problem with that yellow ethernet cable disconnected between the BAG board and Smaug (but of course his mouth doesn't move with that disconnected either - not OK).

When I took Smaug out of the game to fiddle with his mouth, the mechanism was just out of wack. I ordered replacement parts from Nate a JJP, but while I waited for those, I had the idea to put a rubber band on the back of the mechanism to sort of counterbalance the weight of his jaw. It actually worked pretty awesome and his mouth always moves correctly now and the playfield lights never freeze. I still have the brand new replacement mouth mechanism parts in the coin box. If you're comfortable taking Smaug out of the machine, I'd love to see if the rubber band fix works for you as well!

image002 (resized).jpg
#9548 10 months ago
Quoted from Furio:

It was definitely glued on, no signs of solder on the connections and broken glue present. I glued it back down with some instant epoxy and the eyes light up just fine again. Mouth doesn’t. Movement of the head has come back for left and right movement, but it is clearly binding when going left and right. Going to check the connections again and retest. This is all trial and error on my part. Takes forever as I know nothing and am just watching videos and reading how to/diy guides along the way.

Furio thanks for the update - keep them coming. No mouth movement at all? :-/ that's no good...

#9565 9 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Sharing some "Awesome" from Eric ... pretty cool :
Flipper Code: (Left flipper for Letters, Right Flipper for Enter)
So: In attract mode: make sure you're on a clean slate by hitting the flippers together first.
Then: Left 7, R1, L1, R1, L13, R1, L5, R2
Report back to confirm you've seen the Awesome.


#9571 9 months ago

Hey fellow Hobbitses...

I developed a mod to address a pet peeve of mine with the layout of this game. I really get tired of 1. not using the third flipper much, and 2. draining from rejects or dribbles out of the pop bumpers. I've always felt like there should have been a gate at the entrance of Bag End, but it's just missing. So I made a gate

Is this something anyone but me is interested in?



Added 9 months ago:


#9583 9 months ago
Quoted from Toppers:

This is neat. I don’t even remember the ball being able to go towards the out lane. It’s always just fell back towards flippers. I’d be interested in seeing how the game play dynamic changes. It would make killing smog easier with a nice feed towards that flipper


Yeah - I can tell you I certainly enjoy it more, but it’s my baby so perhaps I can’t tell if it’s ugly. I wonder if Buffalo Kevin or someone would be willing to take a shot at installing and streaming with it before/after...

#9584 9 months ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

That’s a neat idea. What does that switch do at the modified exit?


This is how I tried to explain the benefit in the video description - does this make sense?

“ Exiting out the right side instead of back down the middle enables:
1. Shots on the Thorin captive ball to light the kickback, and
2. (when Super Jets is active) Shots on the lit DWARF drop target to 'kick over a barrel' - see the rule sheet, page 14: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-rulesheet

#9594 9 months ago
Quoted from Trumpanche:

Hey fellow Hobbitses...
I developed a mod to address a pet peeve of mine with the layout of this game. I really get tired of 1. not using the third flipper much, and 2. draining from rejects or dribbles out of the pop bumpers. I've always felt like there should have been a gate at the entrance of Bag End, but it's just missing. So I made a gate
Is this something anyone but me is interested in?

I've gotten lots of interest and a number of questions about the Gate at Bag End and I realized I didn't explain it very well initially. I'm still thinking about how to make it available to everyone, but I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this is a cool thing. Here's sort of a summary that goes along with the installation video... Thanks!

The mod is intended to DRASTICALLY increase the use of the game's 3rd flipper by increasing the likelihood of the ball exiting the jet bumpers out to the right orbit instead of straight back down the middle. Exiting out the right side instead of back down the middle enables:
1. Shots on the Thorin captive ball to light the kickback, and
2. (when Super Jets is active) Shots on the lit DWARF drop target to 'kick over a barrel' - see the rule sheet, page 14: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/top...

The mod consists of:
1. Three 3D-printed plastic bracket components
2. A custom hand-formed galvanized steel wire gate
3. A piece of double sided tape attached to one of the 3D-printed parts

The mod simply attaches to the existing Bag End plastic and is fully removable/reversible. It only takes a minute to install - the hardest part is just taking the backing off of the double sticky tape

The mod is pretty discrete, and is even completely invisible if you have already installed Chuck's "Bag End" mod: https://www.pinworlds.com/the-hobbit-...

Note: please ignore the two holes drilled through the original clear plastic - that was part of a failed attempt at an alternative design for this gate.

Added 9 months ago:


#9598 9 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

I need a mod gate for between the bottom flippers too. I think this will drastically increase my use of the bottom flippers.

I'm on it!

#9600 9 months ago
Quoted from DaddyManD:

Hi. thanks for your help. Pic attached. When it gets stuck there it gets VERY stuck. Ball search does not help and only very hard shaking multiple times or taking off glass fixes it. Happens about once per game on average.
[quoted image]

Are your ramp welds broken? That mechanism got misaligned on my game when my ramp started falling apart...

12_Ramp_Assembly_Welds_Broken (resized).jpg
1 week later
#9611 9 months ago

Gogojohnnyquack Great summary! I wish you'd video'd your horn calibration procedure - I'm just not quite able to visualize it from the text...

Furio - I was hoping your servo wasn't fried, but you can get the servo direct from Hobby King and save a few bucks vs. JJP: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15288a-analog-servo-bb-mg-9kg-0-20sec-51g.html

Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I just completed the whole Smaug mouth servo thing. Ken at JJP was great at helping me through it. I checked voltage on the Smaug Control Board J102 connector pins 1 & 3 when the mouth should be moving using the Smaug mouth min/max settings. These are the 3 pins where the mouth servo motor connects to the board. I set up a stand in the cabinet with the playfield raised to make it easier.
[quoted image]
Here are the settings that I measured:
Setting, VDC
100, -.206
105, -.216
110, -.226
115, -.236
120, .247
Setting (Min. at 100)
120, -.246
115, -.235
110, -.224
105, -.213
100, -.202
These progressively inclining/declining numbers showed us that the control board was working but not the servo, so Ken sold me a new servo. The new servo worked and I followed the procedure in the manual to calibrate and mount the control horn. This didn't work for me at all so I pulled the horn off and did my own calibration: I set the min(mouth completely closed)/max(mouth completely open) settings in the middle of their range, selected the min setting, held Smaug's mouth almost all the way closed, and mounted the horn onto the servo (no screw yet). Then I went back and forth between the min & max adjustments to fine tune it by carefully pulling the horn off and rotating it 1 notch at a time then pushing it back on. When I got it close I put the screw in the horn and did final adjustments with the menu settings. Make sure that when the mouth is closed that you can't hear the servo still trying to move. If you can then back the min setting off until you don't hear it, plus a little more.

#9615 9 months ago

Yes, thanks! This makes perfect sense to me now

Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I installed and connected the new servo but didn't mount the control horn onto it, went into the Smaug Mouth Test (page B-21) and cycled back and forth between the 'min' and 'max' settings to make sure the new motor worked while also changing the values up and down, making note of the highest and lowest possible values then setting each in the middle of the range to allow adjustment up and down once I connected the control horn. Then, I selected the 'min' setting which moved the servo to the position that closes Smaug's mouth and while manually holding Smaug's mouth closed with one hand, I pushed the control horn onto the motor hub. Then I went back and forth between the Min and Max settings again to adjust and fine tune his jaw position. If I had to change the settings more than 5 numbers then I would put it back to zero and carefully pull the servo horn barely off the motor, rotate it one gear tooth, push it back on, and go through the tests and number adjustments again. I did this a few times until I was happy and still close to the middle of the numbers adjustment range.
Does that help visualize it better? I'm not going to take Smaug out and go through this again to make a video!

#9618 9 months ago

With some help and insights from allhokie3, I've finalized the design and installation instructions for the "Gate at Bag End" mod and I finished an initial production run of 13 kits. I've got a Pinside ad, so you can grab one here, but it's easier for me if you use Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/trumpanchemods That's the only way for me to do international - they figure out the shipping.

I hope those of you who get one like them as much as I do! Also, please please please share your thoughts and feedback!

DrDoom Toppers joetechbob

IMG_1529 (resized).jpg
#9621 9 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

It would have been nice if they had that in the core design. It would be great if the bag end shot fed the top right flipper every time
Really good idea.

Goronic Thanks! I thought the exact same thing, like there was a communication break down at some point there...

A good analogy for how this works is JUST like the CHAOS/AMBER shot in Jurassic Park, if you're familiar with that game... come to think of it, I doubt I would have thought of this mod if I hadn't played so much Jurassic Park before getting my Hobbit

Screen Shot 2021-01-19 at 12.15.43 AM (resized).png
#9633 9 months ago

Skipnatty Is this every time, or only in multi-ball? In multi-ball, the upper beasts will drop to prevent the auto-launched ball from hitting them...

Otherwise, I'm at a loss. The software timer prevents a premature hit from registering, so it doesn't sound electrical... I would have guessed misalignment/sticking, but you checked that... Good luck!

BTW - Fun stream yesterday!

Quoted from Skipnatty:

Hi folks, hoping someone has experienced this problem and has a fix or some troubleshooting tips. Both of the beast mechs towards the back of the game make an attempt, come up half way, go back down, fire again, and raise up the whole way and stay up via the hold. The two beasts closer to the flippers do not have this issue. They're both also pretty squeaky
I've made sure there are no wires in the way and they've got freedom of movement, and checked the alignment. Any other thoughts or have folks had this before and come across a fix?

#9649 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

That's true for flipper noise too. I see the point of headphones as being able to hear the callouts in a noisy environment.

Yeah, I have some noise cancelling Bluetooth earbuds that overall make the music and call outs louder relative to the game sounds and I like that, but I’m sure it’s still loud to everyone else in the house. The crazy dog finds it soothing - she comes and falls asleep under it when we’re playing

#9657 9 months ago
Quoted from jhoward1082:

Have to say this mod is absolutely killer. What a difference it makes to gameplay. It installs super easy in minutes with no tools required (which you got to love). I really think it’s a no brainer for any owners of the game.

jhoward1082 Awesome!! I'm glad it installed easily and is working for you! If you ever have any trouble with it or suggestions for improvements, please let me know that too!

#9681 8 months ago


One of the main things that sold me most on Hobbit was that it's got my favorite music in pinball. It just sounds great all the time. And I have heard (for example from Karl the IE Pinball guy) that some early build games had ramps with bad geometry that needed to be replaced. I'd just recommend playing/watching the one you get to make sure it's playing properly. ALSO - If you haven't seen this Buffalo Pinball vid between Kevin and Joe, it's what sold me on the game.

#9695 8 months ago

Hell yeah! I often complain I want to be able to get my shot info off of the little screen but still see my flippers - this looks like a great option for that! Fred550 installed a centered screen that I find very intriguing (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/190#post-6009056), but it certainly doesn't have the cachet of this intricately decorated real wood overlay - WOW - it looks amazing!

Question: Can you get the info off of the apron screen without looking away from your flippers with it sized/positioned where you have it?

Quoted from ulmpharmd:

Made this with some help awhile back, but just wondering how the demand would be if I tried to recreate something similar..it’s made out of real post oak and still maintains the original apron underneath..wouldn’t be cheap but is amazing looking in person
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#9700 8 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Congrats - nice looking Smaug Gold and some sweet mods too!

I installed my "Gate at Bag End" today and gave it a few games worth of testing. LOVIN' it so far! So NICE not to have pops shots come flying back SDTM anymore!
Nice mod @Trumpache - thanks!

So glad to hear it!! Thanks very much for the feedback Tuna_Delight ! I'm still a lousy shot off of the third flipper, but it's so nice to at least have a chance to practice every once in a while now haha

#9710 8 months ago
Quoted from DrDoom:

Installed the gate yesterday -> Wow very cool!
Huge enhancement in gameplay, more bumper action and more upper flipper action.

That's awesome - thanks for the feedback!! Shipping to Europe is surprisingly slow , but at least it worked . Please let me know if you ever have any trouble with it or have any thoughts/suggestions!

Speaking of suggestions, it was suggested that translucent hangers & rail might perhaps better blend with the clear plastic they mount to, so I bought a reel of clear material that I'll use going forward.


I think it comes off looking more white than clear, but at least it picks up the various colors of the lights as they change, which is nice. Of course, if you have Chuck's Bag End mod, you can't see this Gate mod anyway
Translucent (resized).jpg

Added 8 months ago:

Having printer issues with the clear... sticking with black.

#9716 8 months ago
Quoted from Beez:

Just bought a Hobbit from a great Pinsider
One issue ... Check matrixed switch #69, Left Pop bumper (stuck open)
I tested the switch and it pops in test mode.
Any help?

Congrat's!! My list of day 1 maladies was QUITE a bit longer than yours All worth it tho!

#9727 8 months ago

Oh wow - I had not seen that Lior is confirmed as doing new beast sculpts! Apparently he's also had a change of heart on selling his topper...AND it indicates there's some other mystery mod he's doing! Cool stuff! Thanks for sharing paulbaptise!

#9728 8 months ago

Quoted from PinPeet:I just received it and after just one game I can say that it is the best mod for The Hobbit! Improves gamesplay by a mile.
I remember when I bought the game that Keith suggested to Joe Balcer to add the hole+Shot through the pops instead of two standup targets like the Witch on WOZ. It was a good choice but unfortunately they missed this solution in the quick changelog.
Thank you very much for this mod and thank JP for the idea!!

Thanks so much for taking the plunge on the mod PinPeet! I had never heard that pinball_keefer was to thank for the Bag End shot - very cool! I wonder if he would appreciate this mod making even more use of his shot

Did I show y'all my "marketing" video? It's so professional

#9731 8 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

To be honest I was thinking I didn't want to add something like this that would alter the game play. But honestly seeing that video makes me think I will make an exception. And to your point, you can easily remove it to make it 'original design' with ease.
I think I am going to be a buyer

Awesome! Yeah - I, of course, think it's worth a shot! The double sided tape is like the stretchy stuff they use to stick credit cards on the piece of paper in the mail - it comes off clean if you decide you don't like it I have a section in the instructions on removal (spoiler alert - you pull it off), and if you take it off and regret it, there's a spare Rail with a fresh piece of tape in the kit

#9735 8 months ago
Quoted from GTO:

trumpanche - got the bag end gate mod, installed and played a few games with it, and have to say it is absolutely amazing. Many fancy mods get all the accolades, but they usually just enhance the appearance of the games. This one ACTUALLY improves the gameplay! Mod of the Year in my eyes. Thank you very much for creating it!

Thanks so much for the feedback!! I'm so happy you're enjoying it as much as I do Please give me a shout if you ever have any issues with it!

#9756 8 months ago
Quoted from Skipnatty:

Just wanted to mention this to Hobbit owners...I did the beta testing and temp checks for Pinmonk's JJP flipper cooling fans. Results were very satisfying to say the least.
Coil temps with the fans never crested 100F over a 90 minute play session and I saw no noticeable flipper fade through the whole time, whereas without the fans, flippers were noticeably weaker by the 60 minute mark of the initial test.
Would highly recommend if you find yourself playing for 60 or more minutes at a time.

Hey Skipnatty - that’s great! Did you capture any video of install or before/after for the Buffalo channel or anything? Fade is the worst cuz it always comes when you need to backhand a ramp towards the end of a really good game Thanks!

#9759 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im ready to buy this NOW! for my TH.
I dont see a need for the upper flipper kit, the upper flipper is barely used.
But for both lower flippers:
Vic, take my money!

Thanks Skip! Great to hear and as expected from the Monk I suppose

pinballinreno - The upper flipper is used ALL THE TIME if... well you know the rest of my spiel but yeah I agree - I’m not at all concerned about upper flipper fade, Gate or no Gate

#9773 8 months ago

Y’all. THIS.

C627A215-1A67-40BC-B6F6-A5479168F60E (resized).jpeg

0D7DBC09-9A21-4B95-A64A-2FDD55030C48 (resized).jpeg
#9777 8 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Damn! $140 for a lit button. There just isn't anything economical in this hobby. Does look nice though, just not $140 nice.

Mass produced products spoil us on prices for sure. For a custom designed, handcrafted, low volume production of a product developed just for our little Hobbit community, though.... IMHO this is priced MORE than fairly.

#9781 8 months ago
Quoted from GTO:

Wish there was some video of it in action. Like, if it glows and swirls like the movie's arkenstone that would be killer.

GTO - I agree. When I get mine installed, I'll take some video.

#9783 8 months ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Here’s a mod that works great and reasonably priced. Thanks for coming up with this Trumpanche.

Thanks very much for the kind feedback Vyzer2! I'm so glad you're enjoying the Gate! I've finally started to sort of 'take it for granted' when I play, which I suppose is a good thing

#9788 8 months ago

Quoted from fnosm:The only question I have is which size to buy? 1.5" or 2"?

The consensus in the Facebook forum so far has been 'bigger is better', but I'm torn!!

#9791 8 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Hmmm ... which would Thorin choose?

[quoted image]

Both - dangit!

THorin (resized).png
#9805 8 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Ordered both as well and had my best game ever. All 3 mini wizard and Smaug defeated. I had 28 modes played...so close!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Holy moly - wow! I'm still yet to make it to Battle of Five Armies or to kill Smaug, but I've been a shot or two away a few times!

#9808 8 months ago

My Warg face broke off recently and I was able to fairly successfully glue it back on with E6000. I have the new spare in the coin box still for when/if my repair eventually fails..

Quoted from Dr-pin:

Love hate relationship.
Now it's mostly hate.
The worg head broke and i had to order this small bit of plastic for 80$. Insanely, rediculous overpriced.
While waiting im trying to play with it disabled, which means reaching beast is five times harder, since the right spinner is now acting as worg and since it's the outer inlane for worg means the ball you have to hit the spinner with is traveling really fast.
Btw if you like hard-mode, try completing into the fire with the spinner as worg. Also notice the spinner is often blocked from the right upper flipper since it's a multiball.
Couldnt they have the right ramp as for when the orch is disabled?

#9814 8 months ago

Quoted from dug:I installed Trumpanche's bag end gate mod.
Played a dozen games or so and I like it...
Just as described with a lot more use of the upper right flipper.
Should have been there from day 1

Excellent! I'm so glad you're happy with it!! I agree - it feels completely natural with how the game's rules are designed... I wonder if something like it was ever included in a white wood or drawing

Quoted from Beez:

I installed the “Gate at Bag End” today ... wow, what a simple mod with HUGE gameplay improvements. Pop bumpers were more active, upper flipper was able to be used more effectively... not to mention the first game I played was the best scoring game I’m had so far. Great mod .... love it and love this pin!

That's awesome! I really appreciate the feedback. The Gate hasn't had that effect on my scores, but perhaps you're more adept with upper flippers than I am

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I ordered one and cant wait to try it out.
Its been taking up to 6 weeks to get something priority mail here.

Holy moly. I sure hope it doesn't take that long. For most domestic destinations, it's taking 3-5 days, but there's been some USPS "idiosyncrasies" here and there...

#9818 8 months ago
Quoted from dug:

Ordered the bag end mod from PinWorlds and considering the ring shooter rod.
Love this hobby!

Those are two of my favorites! One of my other fav's is the Erebor Throne... you know, while you're shopping https://pixelsarcadegames.com/product/hobbit-pinball-erebor-throne-mod/

#9843 8 months ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

There are some gold mirrored ones that are very pricey but look amazing. I’ve held off on adding any so far but will likely go that route when my other repairs and expensive eye candy priorities have run their course-

I have my eye on the black mirrored ones... I'm hoping to snag a pair at a show if there are ever shows again Pricey as you say, though.

#9854 7 months ago
Quoted from Modelvisionary:

I got a request to make an Arkenstone using the recessed button on the machine. It's not as impressive as the other two, but I managed to create the same depth of color and brilliance in a more subtle version. Peaking out of the dragon's hoard, glowing just enough for a sharp-eyed Hobbit thief to find it.
It's a bit easier to make which is reflected in the price. I'm extending the One Ring offer for the Low Profile version, total price for both $179.
https://superskillshot.com/products/arkenstone-low-profile-lighted-start-button-for-the-hobbit?_pos=2&_sid=b1466b948&_ss=r[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I think this MAY be my favorite - I love how it blends in but still gives that razzle dazzle! And how do people not already have your shooter rod? It's a no brainer!! I got your shooter rod before I got the game (which I admit is a little extreme, but true!)

BTW I tried the rod with all of the springs Marco offers and ended up liking the plain "silver" strength spring the best. I think it's just one step stiffer than the original.

#9868 7 months ago

pinballinreno Thanks so much for the feedback! It looks like you positioned it perfectly (although it's been knocked off a bit, as you said). The way the wire gate is formed, it shouldn't be possible to get a ball trap on the right side, which makes me think I may not have bent the 'stop' tab far enough up on your gate. If the gate sags too far and the ball's moving super slow, it's possible to get stuck over there. The gate is supposed to be in line with or above the exit guide rail on the right side. It's also supposed to look like the one in the picture attached here. You should be able to bend it a bit more with a couple of pliers, but I'm happy to send you another wire too.

I think the hangers/rail moving out of position is likely related to the ball trap issue, so I think once we get your gate in the right shape, you won't have any more trouble with the hangers moving on you. Do be sure and squish the tape down good, though, too. The latest version in my machine has lasted for hours and hours, so I'm hoping this is a one-time phenomenon.

BTW - sounds like you already have extra tape you can use, but for those who don't, I always include a spare Rail with tape pre-installed in the kit in case something like this happens and the original tape gets fouled.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I played a few games with the added ball gate last night.
Its pretty shocking as to how different the game play is with this slight addition.
The upper right flipper is used continuously now. I find myself adjusting strategy as to what to hit off from the upper left flipper pretty much all the time.
I was making shots that I forgot you could make!
My score didnt go up much but, a new excitement was brought into the game that I havent felt in years.
I did get a ball hang on the right corner under it that was quickly nudged out, but I might have it set too far to the right?
[quoted image]
It went a little crooked after a few games but the gate swings freely for the most part.
Im going to pull it off and move it up maybe 3/32" and see if its better. Its just stuck on with clear VHB tape, I have plenty of that on hand.
This will be a permanent addition to my game for sure! But Im worried about long term durability
How long before I can get a steel part that I can rivet to the plastic? Im in if you want to make some up.

IMG_1721 4 (resized).jpg

#9872 7 months ago

Valid concern! I’d counter, though, that using softer materials that can naturally deflect and absorb impact energy is an alternative valid way to ensure long term reliability and better protect your original printed plastic, so I wouldn’t count out the ABS/PETG

Plus, I can always send you a replacement hanger or rail and you can swap it out in seconds, but I can’t replace your plastic - and that’s way more hassle!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Really this mod is a keeper.
Who want to fab up a few out of steel brackets that I can rivet on.
Long term durability is the factor here...
Pinball is a lot like automotive. Parts get beat to crap. Even steel plate gets torn and beat...
Make it out of steel and you have a winner!

#9880 7 months ago

Y'all are way too kind - I'm so glad y'all are enjoying the Gate!

HornerSyndrome Congrat's on downing the Chiefest and Greatest of Calamities! I'm still yet to not completely spaz and drain all my balls as soon as the shot on Smaug is available One day, though, I'll spaz lucky instead of spaz'ing unlucky

pinballinreno glad the adjustment worked for you! The offer stands, though - if it's not reliable for you, just give me a shout and I'll stick another kit in the mail!

Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

I want to second / third / 10th that the bag end gate mod is a game changer - literally. Not only do I not get the super frustrating SDTM after hitting a clean pop bumper shot but it gave me so much more practice at using my upper flipper that I killed Smaug tonight for the first time ever and did it with my black arrow upper flipper. So thanks trumpanche for making this!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I slightly lifted my gate mod and pressed the crooked hinge further in to be tighter against the plastic.
I played 3 games and no ball hangs.
The mod is worth every penny. Yes it could be cheaper. Yes you can make it yourself, etc.
But the guy who envisioned it and did the research deserves to be rewarded.
This mod is never leaving.
Pleas make one out of steel for long term durability, its not too hard to do, it just needs to be done.
Ill be your first customer.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Also the bag end model that covers the gate is awesome!

Quoted from dug:

Could not agree more with what you said!
Love both mods.
I just checked my gate mod and after dozen's of plays it has not moved and I've had no ball hang ups.

#9883 7 months ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Printed the gate mod and have tried piano wire and stainless welding rod (tough to bend). So far the piano wire is working well, it's a tad light so the bumpers tend to cause it to bounce back up from time to time and the ball rolls back through but gives a new dynamic. I appreciate the that idea was brought back and enjoy building the mods myself.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Energyspike Looks good! The ones I offer don't have 100% success at keeping the ball in the pops either - there's always that random chance it sneaks back past the gate. And I think you're right - the heavier wire in my kits does seem to keep it up there more often than the lightweight paperclips from my early prototypes.

Welcome to the exclusive Gated Community

#9887 7 months ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

I finally got good enough at Hobbit to notice the "weak flippers as gameplay goes on" issue. I think I saw where some of you were installing fans to try and cool flipper coils during gameplay, but has anyone figured out a less invasive/easier solution? Thanks in advance!

I, for one, am ready for the Monk fans!

#9899 7 months ago

GTO - Arkenstone start button video as promised! This is the 2-inch model. It's REALLY impressive. I added a little wiring mod to mine to make the light pulse instead of blink.


#9919 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinball-Ike:

I will add my thanks, super quick delivery and communication when I ordered. It took just a few minutes to install, and the instructions were clear, even for bit ole mitts like mine. I’ve played several games, it hasn’t moved, and the gameplay change is noticeable, especially getting the pop bumper awards on the dwarf and captive ball targets, and fewer SDTM returns obvi...
With 2 other gates in the area I’m surprised this wasn’t OEM, but there isn’t an immediate mounting area for an OEM gate, and so likely wasn’t possible, which makes this clever mount even better.
Well done Trumpanche folks like you, capguntrooper and others making simple but meaningful mods are a fantastic part of Pinside!

Pinball-Ike Thank you VERY much for the kind words and I'm so glad you're enjoying it. Someone was saying this gate was part of an early design cycle, but I've never heard/seen the source of that info. I'd be super interested if anyone could dig it up...

Quoted from GoldenBear:

Haven’t been loving my Hobbit lately ...game times seem awfully long. Nonetheless just ordered the gate mod which may not shorten game times but seems like it should be there giving me more things I can do safely when not in multiball modes. Excited to get it in the machine and give it a try! Thanks for tips

GoldenBear I'm glad you're giving it a go! I hope it adds some additional interest to keep you kickin' barrels!

#9920 7 months ago

Hey y'all - as far as the pulsing light on Bill's Arkenstone start buttons, it takes a certain 4-pin Molex connector and a little lamp controller and some insulated terminals. It's not complicated, but to gather the right parts and tools is sort of a pain and may not be worth it for a one time build. If anyone wants me to put one together for them, though, I'm happy to make them and include installation instructions and whatnot!


BTW - the low profile start button is REALLY REALLY nice too. It blends seamlessly with the original LE cabinet and the crystal has this incredible depth to it - it's very hard to describe other than sort of bottomless... I'm also impressed that the gold bezel actually looks classy - it has sort of a glitzy chiseled appearance!

I think if I had a Smaug special edition, I'd still go with the 2" because it fits the art on the cabinet so well and it's hard for anything to stand out on that cabinet if it's not BIG, but for my LE, I think I'm sticking with low profile!! (although I reserve the right to change my mind on a whim - it only takes a minute to unscrew one and screw in the other one in )

Quoted from darkryder:

That looks amazing, nice work! Do tell how you wired it up to pulse...I ordered the recessed version of the button and would also like to do this.

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Sweet! I too added a big 2-inch to my Hobbit as well as a gold ring shooter. I like that pulse action trumpanche!
Hats off to modelvisionary for the fabulous start button and shootermods too![quoted image]

Quoted from GTO:

Thank you so much for the video! The button is nice, but your wiring mod takes it to another level!

Quoted from Plungerboy:

Yes please share the wiring mod you speak of, thank you!

#9934 7 months ago

Somebody posted this link for the screen a while back and I jotted it down in my notes...


Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Having a problem with my Mini Display. So I'm loosing Red every now and then. I've already installed a new VGA cable, that seemed to help for a while but the problem still comes back. If you put it in test I will just not have Red. Not really much to the little screen, i took that apart but not really anything can be done with that. Doesn't seem like much can be done on the MPU also. Possible a reflow on VGA connector. The Board itself is very expensive. Not sure if i just get a replacement Motherboard or could this be more of a mini display issue? anyone else have this problem?
Does this board look like the correct one?
ebay.com link: MSI H81M P33 Motherboard Intel H81 LGA 1150 DDR3 DVI VGA USB3 0 mATX

#9947 7 months ago

Too funny!

Reminds me of the person on Twitch who has the username ‘Hobbits3rdFlipper’, which made me laugh out loud the first time I saw it, but now the Gate at Bag End kinda ruins their joke!

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

It was a bit humorous to hear the guys on the Slam Tilt Podcast complaining about the supposed uselessness of The Hobbit's upper flipper in their latest episode. (spoiler: they are NOT fans of TH)
They're obviously unaware of Trumpanche 's fabulous Bag End gate mod!

#9972 7 months ago

That's about how mine plays too PinballCharlie, but maybe 90%...

jorant - I hadn't even thought about tweaking my kickback settings! But now that you've inspired me, I think I agree with you: The default settings are too easy - we should have to earn those from shots off the third flipper! I'll try these new settings, then get frustrated , and then make them easier until it "feels" fair

One of the things I really enjoy about Hobbit is that you don't feel like you get cheated with outlane drains; I really enjoy the kickback and ring save you can earn. The Stern "sling-sling-outlane-drain" is NOT my favorite way to play pinball as a casual player (if you've played the new Turtles, you know what I mean...)

Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Hmm - my gate installation is about 80% feeds the flipper - 20% still get through. Reverse those percentage before the gate installation.

IMG_1791 (resized).jpg
#9977 7 months ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

This is my software setting, strange thing is I can not changed the stacked extra balls.
[quoted image]
Yes I know I need to hit both shots.

What happened when you reset all your settings? Same problem?

#9997 7 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Those numbers can vary greatly depending on the servo. Pull the glass off, go into the setting and adjust each until the servo is making no noise at either max position. To be safe, back it off a few points more from those numbers. Then you will know for sure you are not over driving the servo and binding it. You don't need crazy range of motion for the jaw movement to match the speech well. Less in this case, is more.

GTO - I think that was a good explanation from Reaper802! Mine are at 110 and 125, just for reference, but like Reaper says, listening to the motor was key for me. BTW - if you're adjusting the mouth position and you hear the servo motor running and running, but don't see the mouth moving, you might try my rubber band "fix" also.
Example of sticky mouth movement:

Example after the rubber band is added:

#10010 7 months ago

Interesting history! I never noticed the left ramp outer guide is "curvier" than the right ramp outer guide... Seems like they thought about the upper flipper maybe being able to shoot the left ramp??

Quoted from Kneissl:

here's a pic of the layout he's talking about...
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinPeet:

To add to this story. Originally there was a nice wireform loop around Smaug as well (instead of the magnet when you shoot the right ramp and it deflects to the Smaug lock) and even a left upper flipper. That upper flipper was earlier changed into the slingshot and the upper right stayed. The Smaug wireform loop was deleted because they were not allowed to have any interaction of Smaug and a pinball. Thats why you don’t even see Smaug shooting pinballs from his mouth in the screen animation but just the balls flying around when Smaug is out of the picture.
Crazy times

#10026 7 months ago

Couldn’t agree more! Bill and his craftsmanship are next level awesome.

Which reminds me... If anyone bought his Arkenstone button and is curious about the Lamp Mod, I made another SUPER PROFESSIONAL explanation video


Quoted from mjfisher:

I just wanted to re-iterate what everyone knows about the Hobbit Arkenstone Mod and One Ring Shooter Mod. Not only are they awesome works of art and extremely well made but @modelvisonary (Bill) is one of the nicest guys around. Extremely genuine, willing to take feedback and not treat you like a fool. Thanks again for such a great product. If you haven't checked out his site yet it's here https://superskillshot.com/

1 week later
#10047 6 months ago

I'm loving Bill's "Arkenstone in Smaug's Horde" mod! https://superskillshot.com/products/arkenstone-on-the-gold-pile-for-the-hobbit

I took some time to both add a lamp to it and to add an LED controller to that lamp and to the Throne of Erebor LED so they pulse like the Start button mod. It keeps the original flasher lamp and adds to it. I also added a controller to Bag End's lamp and the trough lamp, which adds some nice dynamism to those areas. I think I'll move the two Arkenstones to separate controllers next week so they pulse out of synch with one another, just for a little extra randomness and visual interest.

I'm really pleased with the overall effect - the Arkenstone is a stunning improvement over the gold flasher dome that was there - it's really impressive! It's pretty easy to install as well - the hardest thing is just demating the tiny LED connectors under the gold pile - if you can do that, it's pretty much a drop in!

(sorry for the noisy glass-off vid...)

Quoted from docdeath:

Bill's Arkenstone with back panel LED strip blue/UV (Photo 1), not red as in above post (10043). Photo 2 is with playfield lights on. Note: Don't affix stone to back panel sculpture with 1/2" glue dot as previously recommended. The dot is too thin and won't hold. Use a double sided adhesive tape such as Gorilla. It's thicker than a glue dot & there is more surface area of stone & pillar adhering.
[quoted image][quoted image]

#10052 6 months ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

Ok, I have the elite topper, bag end gate, arkenstone start button with pulse, arkenstone in Smaug's gold, clear shooter ring (and red shooter ring for LOTR), barrel legs, and book frame. I don't have bag end mod because of previous owner glued figures there (I might remove them and add the bag end sculpt. Can you guys stop making amazing mods? I think we are good now right? Just kidding, this community is awesome. I think this pin is undervalued even at $8k.

It's an addiction! I had collected 3 or 4 mods before I had even bought the game And I still want to do my coin door and get mirror blades and I can't wait for whatever Lior's coming out with for beast mechs and more

#10056 6 months ago

docdeath - Thanks for the questions!

Sorry - “demating” is a term we use at work... I just mean separating the two itty bitty LED electrical connectors.

I have the Throne of Erebor mod (where your Thorin figure sits) so I’m not planning to adds Smaug’s Horde Arkenstone up top as you did (it’d be a little too redundant imho). I’m not sure how I’d approach lighting that or hiding the wires - I’d hate to drill the sculpture or anything :-/

For my LE artwork, I decided on the low profile button and love it. If I had a Smaug edition tho, I would have gone with the big 2” button - it’s awesome!

Quoted from docdeath:

Trumpanche: What do you mean by "demating"? From your video, it looks like you have also mounted the Smaug's horde Arkenstone on the back panel sculpture & back lit it. Where/how did you hide the wire leads? Also, which Arkenstone Start Button did you decide to install? The low profile?

#10062 6 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

Are your screws really clockwise to tighten?
They are anti clockwise here.

But your clocks turn backwards so the screws are normal

#10069 6 months ago

jorant Are your flippers lined up with the little dots/holes on the playfield or are they maybe sitting lower? If they sit too low, cradling is way harder. I was watching Karl from IE stream one time and his were so high he could stop the ball into a cradle as it was coming out of the inlane!

Quoted from jorant:

Let me explain better. I'm not saying I can't. I'm saying it is harder than most other games. The throw isn't as long. Like some games I can flutter the flipper and get it to control the ball and keep it on a flipper.... but this machine it seems it will be luck or happenstance as to which flipper I can cradle it onto. It is also almost impossible to post pass because of it. I wish they had a better/longer distance to travel to cradle it better.

#10073 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check or replace the coil stops, they might be too long.
Use the modern williams coil stops.

I'm curious - why would some have longer coil stops? Original JJP? Wrong rebuild kit? Coil stop gnomes?

#10076 6 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

Evil bastards.
Got the gate yesterday mate thanks.

Awesome - thank YOU punkin !

#10087 6 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Post some pictures of the after - I am thinking about this mod too
I kind of wish Lior would redo that gold pile in front of Smaug to have a cool looking pile of treasures mixed in with the coins and a nice sculpted Arkenstone that is integrated with the gold pile more than just a flasher.

Goronic - good idea! Here's a video with the Arkenstone replacing the gold flasher. I also lit it from the underside even when it's not flashing, but otherwise what you see is what you get

#10088 6 months ago

I'm always excited to start Riddles in the Dark There are still so many modes I've never completed... it's kind of embarrassing! I find the cheat sheet Plungerboy put together and posted in the Rules thread really helpful for working through the modes too!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

For the past few weeks, I only focus on the modes, and completing them.
I have had this game for years and am rediscovering all that I have missed!
Its not about the score, or the multiballs, it all about the modes.
Individually, they are incredible!
Playing them and not completing them is one thing. Completeing them, wit the amazing videos that accompany them Is just "next level" amazing.
The bag end gate mod has opened up the game to a new level.
My hope is that a more permanent solution presents itself. This should have been included in the game and coded.

#10092 6 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Anyone know if you can restore high scores and setting from a different machine? Or are they coded to a game? I have an April fools prank in the works.

paynemic - EVIL! Better try it in reverse first so they don’t murder you if it fails! lmao

#10095 6 months ago

pinballinreno - I rarely notice that lamp and have no idea what they were trying to achieve with it... It’s just a red dot. It doesn’t light anything; it doesn’t seem to represent anything from the movies; it’s visually obscured (depending on your height)...

I’m thinking if we put a mod back there, it’s so far back and obscured by Smaug that no one would even notice??

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think the sillly square light in the backboard could use some work, as a mod.
The Eye of Suaron, Much like the Palantir mod on LOTR would be really good.

5E760E65-E4CF-460D-88F1-F1A155B65BF6 (resized).jpeg
#10120 6 months ago

Like others said, I just have to crank the game volume up real high (in the 40s) when using the external volume control. They’re kinda ‘additive’ volume settings.

Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Just got my Smaug Edition a few days ago and love it. Very pleasantly surprised how much I like playing this game. Still on the honeymoon, but it will be here awhile if not forever. A couple of questions:
It’s the first old school JJP I’ve seen, with the computer under the playfield and the monitor hard mounted in the backbox. Curious, are the Black Arrow editions like this or are they setup like the newer ones (with computer in the backbox and monitor on a telescoping mount)?
Also, the volume control looks like the attached picture which isn’t the same as my 4 other JJP’s. Haven’t tried to see if it works with headphones, but it doesn’t work adjusting the system volume. A) is this the stock volume control, and B) any suggestions on what to check to get working? I haven’t looked at the computer setup under the playfield let, maybe something came unplugged during shipping.
[quoted image]

#10126 6 months ago
Quoted from Modelvisionary:

First, I'd like to thank everyone who has picked up one of my Arkenstones. It's kept me incredibly busy for the last month.
I've gotten several requests for help installing the Arkenstone in Smaug's Hoard. It can be a bit challenging or more accurately, it's incredibly simple to install AFTER taking the gold lens out. It gets easier after doing it 3 or 4 times which I ended up doing to get these pictures on the process. This is the easiest way that I found. I tried removing the second light board instead of disconnecting it, but it was more difficult to screw it back in place than to reconnect plug.
This is my first run at documenting, critique welcome.
Bill Hanson[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bill - What kind of magic is that?? Those are great instructions! I didn't THINK to unscrew Smaug's light board (and I didn't even disconnect it), so these were the steps I used:

1. Unscrew the big locking nut and lift up the gold pile a bit
2. Disconnect the little connector on the underside to the flasher (gray wires, not blue wires - and the wires were SHORT, so a little screwdriver helped to push the little lever on the connector)
3. Unscrew the metal bracket from the sculpture (i.e. unscrew the bracket the flasher LED board is on)
4. Unscrew the old gold lens (it just came out the bottom - the obvious way I'd say, not Bill's ninja way out the top)
5. (stuck my LED strip light mod on that metal bracket next to the flasher LED board)
6. Screw everything back together (except the flasher lens of course) and plug the flasher LED board connector back in (patiently haha)
7. Pop in the Arkenstone

Thanks again Bill - I love this mod!

#10127 6 months ago
Quoted from docdeath:

How to mod the back indicator light? Let's put a Smaug's eye there! "Smaug is in hiding but keeping a watchful eye on you." My photos do not do my mod justice. They are too dark. I think my camera needs cataract surgery! I took a 1.5cm acrylic clear half sphere, made an elliptical pupil from black electrical tape and affixed the half sphere with pupil affixed to the indicated with glue dot. The black pupil is horizontal, not vertical, but let's just assume Smaug is looking down in the backbox. I tried vertical mounting, but horizontal is more aesthetic.
Amazon has a myriad of glass dragon eyes. I have order several to upgrade my mod, but they my not be transparent to light. If they are, the red indicator light may not be bright enough. Right now I'm satisfied with what I have. [quoted image][quoted image]

docdeath Sure beats the red dot! Nice!

#10139 6 months ago
Quoted from Jhislop3:

Finally added TH SE to my small pin collection. First install was Bills arkenstone up in Smaug and his shooter rod. What an awesome and under rated pin!

Quoted from Powerhouse47:

Joined the Black Arrow edition yesterday!

Welcome to the club guys! Good call starting with a trip to Bill’s shop haha

1 week later
#10151 6 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Thanks Bill , I just received my arkenstone start button .
It looks great , I can't wait to install it and see it light up .
[quoted image]

It's a gorgeous addition to the game Did you already have Bill's "one ring" shooter rod?

#10158 6 months ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Anyone had Smaug’s head move fine but mouth not moving?
I got The Hobbit two months ago and had no idea until now that the mouth was supposed to move!? The seller also didn’t tell me there was a loud crackle in the left speaker and a gash on the inside wall that wasn’t in the pics. I put mirror blades on and covered the gash and pulled the sound bar and found a wire that I resoldered and it’s magic now, just hoping this mouth issue is another ‘easy’ fix? At least now I know why I got a great deal on it!(; Thanks for any help

I would say nothing about Smaug's mouth is simple. Most people I get the impression have had luck replacing the servo, but that's probably on borrowed time, so I'd recommend making sure the mechanism isn't too sticky as well (I used a rubber band assist that's still trucking along)



#10162 6 months ago

Hey just a heads up y'all - I added an item to the Pinside shop if anyone wants me to make them a copy of the Smaug's Horde Arkenstone lamp I added to my machine. I really like how it enhance's Bill's creation, so I assume some of y'all will appreciate it as well...


I can also wire up a lamp controller (dimming or pulsing, or other pattern) for you to enhance this mod or many of your other Hobbit playfield lamp mods like Bag End, Throne of Erebor, Gandalf, or a trough lamp or whatever.

IMG_1999 2 (resized).jpg

#10164 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is exactly what my hoard stone needed.
Just ordered, it is automatic? No settings required?

Thanks pinballinreno ! The controller is set before shipping, and then you can either leave it how I set it or change it however you prefer. I provide instructions on the controls with the mod for that case.

I wish I'd had these ready when Bill first released his Arkenstones so no one would have to pull apart their games twice to light them, but Bill is way faster than electrical supply companies

#10169 6 months ago

Good luck with those being your last mods! Lior just teased the new beast mech sculpts on his Instagram this weekend

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

5 years later and The Hobbit is probably my favorite pin I own. The game is just loaded and has in my opinion the deepest objective based ruleset ever created for a pinball machine. The code work done by Keith Johnson, Joe Katz, and especially Ted Estes with the final few updates (he did a ton of work with those last few updates that took the game to the next level) makes this games code masterpiece level. I don't think we will ever see another pin have the amount and quality of objective based modes as The Hobbit. Also, the audio work by David Thiel is incredible as well.
Just ordered The Art of Pinball book and barrel mod for the game, I'm telling myself these are the last mods I'll buy for the game lol. Also, just had some family over the weekend for a pinball party. My cousins and I mainly played Hobbit, probably put 30+ games on it over the course of 6 hours haha. One of my cousins has a LOTR with over 6k plays (all his) and all he will play is Hobbit when he comes over lol.

CD58FE35-4B36-4D41-B7D6-19FE25E49CB2 (resized).jpeg
#10172 6 months ago

I volunteer to test them

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks great but I worry about their durability.
Smacking them with high speed heavy steel balls would tear off his ears in short order.

#10181 6 months ago

KevInBuffalo - I had identical symptoms and my fix was to make Smaug’s mouth move better (keep in mind his mouth is wired to the BAG board... so it’s not completely insane to think they are related). I put a rubber band on his mechanism and the problem never recurred.


Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Hey Hobbiteers, looking for some assistance.
Been having on and off issues with light boards in my game. Here's a gameplay example of what happens. The game will play normally for a while and then the lights will lock up and Smaug's mouth freezes. A reboot will bring everything back but after a bit of gameplay it will happen again:
So far I've done the following:
1. Sent BAG board in for repair from JJP, since that has been a common point of failure for issues like this. JJP determined it to not be repairable so I received a brand new one. Lights kept locking up.
2. Through troubleshooting (swapping boards around, testing new Ethernet cables, etc.), figured out that one of the three RGB LED Controller Boards went bad (Part # 15-0031-00).
3. Purchased a replacement and everything worked for a while, then eventually a second one went bad. Purchased a replacement and eventually the third went bad.
It seems like something in the game is killing these boards. Any tips on how to figure out what is doing it and how to remedy the issue?
[quoted image]

#10183 6 months ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Photo 1 is Bill's Smaug's Hoard Arkenstone mounted on the back pillar sculpture with glue dot. The stone is 25mm diameter & light enough to attach/hold with a single glue dot. I think it's very dramatic. It can be purchased from superskillshot.com for $60. One drawback is it's too small for proper back lighting with a pulsating LED. It's also the same size as the Arkenstone in the pile of gold & might be too redundant for Trumpanche.
Notice the dragon eye installed @ the back left indicator light! Glass dragon eye is 14mm diameter, purchased from Amazon. Your options are 14mm & 20mm. Both sizes work but I decided on the smaller size.
Photo 2 is the unfinished installation of the larger (35mm) Arkenstone on the back pillar sculpture. It pulsates! It is back lit with a 12v blue 3 LED strip cut to 1, purchased from cometpinball.com. Go to cometpinall.com, click on All Products...Matrix...Lights & Wiring...12v Lighting Strip 3SMD. You can cut the 3 LED strip to one (instruction for cutting: click Light Strip, 6.3v). You also need to click on Matrix Extension Wires.
I used the matrix wire extensions to reach the 12v power source connector in the left front cabinet corner near the start button & connected/used Trumpanche's variable mode harness. I set it to pulsate. Of course that meant I left the Bill's Arkenstone Start Button flashing. The LED wires drape down in front of the sculpture and exit the playfield between the metal ramps on the left side. With remount the Thorin Action fig., the wires are not that big of a distraction.
Special Note: If you use a Hobbit cabinet power source, it's 12v. To avoid overheating/electrical fire, you must use a 12v LED, not 6.3v or less!!!
I will attempt to post a video of the finished installation later this week. It is really dramatic/unbelievable. If there is a market for the larger stone, back lighted or not, maybe we can convince Bill Hanson to produce them.
Thanks Bill Hanson for the Arkenstone & Trumpanche for the variable mode harness!![quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work Doc! Any more pics of the eye when it’s lit up?

#10191 6 months ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys one pinsider was very nice to respond to me, but anyone else dealt with a crooked smaug jaw and how to fix it? Is there screws underneath the jaw that need adjusting? Mine is just off center and doesnt look right, looks like a crooked beak, and it bothers me! His jaw wasnt crooked in the movie.

Have you disassembled him to see what the mechanism looks like? Maybe something bent or a grommet missing or something?

#10200 6 months ago

Yeah, just like the pros at Lermods said, I use a 12V LED strip and electrical tape over two of the three LEDs for my Smaug’s Horde Arkenstone mod.


And I use one of these to make it pulse, just like the start button one.


I’d say voltage is just a design choice... prob no single reason Stern and JJP use dif voltages.

Quoted from docdeath:

If you back light the Arkenstone with JJP 12v power source, you'll need use the brightness adjuster, either from Comet Pinball or the brightness button on Trumpanche mode harness to reduce the voltage. I hooked up the 6.3v LED to the 12v power source/mode harness & set it to slow pulsate. I did not reduce the brightness/voltage. After 3 minutes, the LED started to smoke. I'm going to reduce the brightness on the harness & see what happens (not now, I'm too depressed & tired of lifting that heavy playfield). Additional Post To Follow, hopefully with a video.
Note: Why does JJP use a 12v power source for it's LED's? With my Stern games (LE Hulk & Tron Pro), I have the options for 5v or 10v sources with Molex connectors. The 12v power source in my LE Hobbit is giving me problems with the dragon eye/red indicator light mod.

#10213 6 months ago
Quoted from MooButt:

I have the LE (not Smaug). The bronze powder coat looks sooooo good. I held out till I found the one I want.

My fav too but I did have a number of early production issues to fix

#10214 6 months ago

Hey halflings, I thought I'd share my latest upgrade I was never happy with the stock backbox lighting, even with the amber gel light filter over the overly-blue LEDs that came with the machine. So... yesterday, I took some time to re-light the backbox/translite. I unplugged the old light strip and then essentially circled the inside of the backbox with LED strips... plus lamp controllers, duh! The overhead strip is set to full bright, the side strips are full dim, and the bottom strip is one step up from full dim.

I'm super pleased with the results! Before and after pics attached.

And, as always, big thanks to you all who keep supporting my mods! I've run out of parts for the Smaug's Horde Arkenstone lamp/controller and don't plan on buying parts to make another run of those unless there's some surge in interest, but I do have a handful left ready to ship.


IMG_1962 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_2072 (resized).jpg
#10224 5 months ago

KevInBuffalo - I missed your stream in real time but caught the results . Next step is to try the rubber band fix!! If the only cable you need to disconnect is the Ethernet/RJ45 cable, that was my situation and the rubber band / fixing his mouth mechanism was the long term fix for me

#10233 5 months ago

Awwww - quitter!

Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Yep I'm happy with the results after last night. I mentioned at the end of the stream that there were a number of things I tried, including reseating power connections, changing USB ports for the cable that feeds the playfield, and adjusting the values of Smaug's mouth. Considering it held up after that last game where I defeated Smaug and got to Five Armies I'm calling it good to go.

#10237 5 months ago
Quoted from Pulp:

This is driving me nuts. Can someone tell me where this wire connects to? It is located directly under the smaug head and I can't seem to remember after replacing the servo in the the Smaug. Ugh.
[quoted image]

Looks like it goes to the board on the Smaug mech, maybe from the servo to that board?

#10238 5 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Maybe to the light on the gold pile in front of Smaug ?
LTG : )

Those are tiny and blue

E990D16B-0014-486B-BBA9-E90AF0C0A04E (resized).jpeg
#10241 5 months ago

1130A38C-A246-4D9E-B34C-FCAD528010D6 (resized).jpeg

Looks like you gotta pull him back out to plug it in :-/

#10244 5 months ago
Quoted from Pulp:

Man, this project is never ending.
I changed the servo in Smaugs head and had everything working, turned off the machine, came back the next day and now the side to side motor doesn't seem to be working. I don't know how best to explain it... but it seemed bumpy and rough when turning side to side. So I pulled the head back off.
Any time it is plugged in the side to side feels rough and bumpy when manually turning by hand or having the machine turn it. As soon as I unplug it the motion is smooth again by hand.
It also seems to be causing excessive heat in the motor.
I'm totally lost on what to do next. What did I do wrong? Has anyone experienced this or seen any posts about this? Do I need to replace this part; if so does anyone know where I can buy the side to side motor?
Any help in troubleshooting this would be greatly appreciated!
[quoted image][quoted image]

This has happened to me a few times. I’d just try powering on the game with his head turned at different angles until it works again. Seems to usually fix it for me. Also check in the switch matrix test and see if his end of travel switches are activating at each end. If those aren’t tripping, you might need to double check your connectors and such. Good luck!

#10245 5 months ago
Quoted from Pulp:

Man, this project is never ending.
I changed the servo in Smaugs head and had everything working, turned off the machine, came back the next day and now the side to side motor doesn't seem to be working. I don't know how best to explain it... but it seemed bumpy and rough when turning side to side. So I pulled the head back off.
Any time it is plugged in the side to side feels rough and bumpy when manually turning by hand or having the machine turn it. As soon as I unplug it the motion is smooth again by hand.
It also seems to be causing excessive heat in the motor.
I'm totally lost on what to do next. What did I do wrong? Has anyone experienced this or seen any posts about this? Do I need to replace this part; if so does anyone know where I can buy the side to side motor?
Any help in troubleshooting this would be greatly appreciated!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Oh and that ‘cogging’ (bumpy) you’re feeling in the motor is probably normal.

#10247 5 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Mine has that feeling and works well (thank goodness)....but it does run hot as hell.

Mine seems to usually be too hot to touch... hasn't failed yet, though! :-/

1 week later
#10259 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Installed my arkenstone horde mod with lamp mod tonight.
Looks great!
Pulsation works ok. It dies after a couple hours in attract mode but comes back after a reboot.
There is a dark band across the stone from the players point of view.
I tilted the stone a bit and tilted the gold pile 1/4" to resolve it mostly.
Seems ok.
Looks best when viewed from the right a bit.
We will see how sturdy it is after a few games.
Right now its just jammed in the hole at a slight angle.
Over all it looks way better than the original.
Its tight and I cant very easily pull it out unless I push it from the rear inside the sculpture.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I tilted the top of my stone a little towards the player also. Looks great!!

Did you try any other pulse patterns or speeds? You might prefer a faster pulse if you find it too subtle

The lamp is driven off the spotlight - do all of your spotlights turn off after a couple hours? I haven’t experienced this behavior…

#10261 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I let it run in atttact mode for 3 hours.
The pulsation had stopped.
I did it twice over a 2 day period.
I havent tried to debug it.
I also didnt wait longer to see if it restarted on its own.

Interesting - that shouldn't happen. The next time you notice it, please take note of what the four spot lights are doing... Keep in mind that if you open the coin door and go into the menus, a) the spotlights (and arkenstone lamp/controller) turn OFF, and b) the other/original flasher lamp under the arkenstone turns ON continuously. So in some situations, it may look like the new lamp has stopped pulsing when it's actually completely off and it's just the original lamp turning on continuously (they are nearly identical in color and brightness - I can't tell a difference, at least). I'll, of course, send you a new controller if it's busted

#10273 5 months ago
Quoted from fitzpatricksrus:

Any advice on replacing the Smaug jaw servo? Just got a replacement for my dead one. Lots of advice on forum about removing the Smaug mech. Was just wondering if there are any gotchas for the motor itself. The manual has a fairly involved procedure to calibrate.

Gogojohnnyquack did an awesome writeup of a more fool-proof procedure than the manual has...


#10274 5 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

Let me know if you have any issues with this.
Code update v3.11 for The Hobbit pinball includes support for Wi-Fi and Scorbit!
View Change-Log:
Code update for US can be found here:
Code update for EU can be found here:
Additional update links can be found at:

I've been test driving the beta of this and it has worked great!

Use your phone's camera to capture the Scorbit QR code that comes up when you start your game and before you've plunged to start using Scorbit

#10278 5 months ago

Here's the dongles to get:
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

You can hook up wired ethernet as well instead of the wifi dongle, but you gotta get the cable into the cabinet which is also a minor pain.

Wifi/ethernet does simple delta software updates in the future and Scorbit integration. Bluetooth does wireless headphone connectivity, but doesn't work with Apple AirPods yet, so your mileage may vary for that functionality. AirPods and AirPods Pro were the only ones I tried and JJP said the Apple units are sort of a one-off breed of bluetooth device.

Quoted from marspinball:

How do you get on Wi-Fi once updated. And why would I? Also scorbit any good? The email from jersey jack shows a link to a Bluetooth USB plug. That is not wifi?

#10287 5 months ago

No you could skip.

Quoted from Lermods:

Is there anything else in this update besides WiFi and scorbit to make it worth updating? I don’t expect any more updates and I don’t use scorbit. I see it says other fixes, etc., but are they noticeable? Wasn’t going to update if it’s just WiFi and scorbit.

#10301 5 months ago
Quoted from wolv3:

Co-op would suit this pin very well. For most players starting 32 modes in a game is almost impossible and I bet that in a 4 player game all 4 would hardly ever see the end.
As for the paid dlc forget that. It shouldn't be that hard to code Combining all 4 players mode count.
It would be cool to have the option to do a shared mode pool but have individual scores so you can still have some competition.

Great idea - you'd try and grab the best modes before they're taken

#10303 5 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Never thought I would see another update for Hobbit after those few huge updates 2-3 years back. Awesome!
With Scorebit it doesn't look like there's anything additional to buy, just download the app and make sure your game is connected to the internet? Also, when playing in Scorebit mode does it automatically change your games settings for leaderboards? Just curious if it can enforce 3 ball default settings versus someone with modified settings that makes the game easier.

I feel like there ought to be "Scorbit Settings" as something you can opt into to make it into the global leader board, but there's so many other variables that global leader boards may just be a lost cause...

#10322 5 months ago
Quoted from wilsonza:

About to join the club. Any must-have tweaks or mods? This is a large thread to wade through!

This game has great mods! I kept a list of all the little "gems" I’ve added to my machine and I love all of them, but some more than others. It's funny how we all have different favorites, though - the first mod someone recommended was barrel spots, and that's the only mod I ordered and decided to get rid of haha

Trumpanche Mods (Pinside) “Gate at Bag End”
SuperSkillShot.com “One Ring” shooter rod, crystal clear
SuperSkillShot.com “Arkenstone Start Button”, low profile w/ Trumpanche Mods start button lamp controller
SuperSkillShot.com “Smaug’s Horde Arkenstone” w/ Trumpanche Mods lamp & playfield accessory lamp controller
Trumpanche Mods trough lamp, warm white w/ Trumpanche Mods playfield accessory lamp controller
Trumpanche Mods translite illumination, daylight white w/ 4x lamp controllers
PixelsArcadeGames.com “Throne of Erebor” mod w/ Trumpanche Mods playfield accessory lamp controller
PinWorlds.com “Bag End” mod w/ Trumpanche Mods playfield accessory lamp controller
JerseyJackPinball.com flippers x3, black
BackAlleyCreations.com “Gold Flipper Toppers” x2 (lower flippers)
TitanPinball.com silicone rubbers, clear
TitanPinball.com flipper rubbers, low bounce, black x2 (lower flippers)
TitanPinball.com flipper rubber, low bounce, red x1 (upper flipper)
CometPinball.com 12V spotlights, 8SMD, sunlight
MezelMods.com Gold Ring buttons (for flippers) —> no longer available
PinballLife.com Brite Buttons (used with Gold Ring flipper buttons), white / pulsing
LittleShopOfGames.com Art of Pinball mods: Action Button Sculpt, Barrel Legs, and Book Cover/Stand
MezelMods.com Barrel spotlights, didn’t like and re-sold them
ebay.com link: str Leg protectors
GameRoomGuys.com nylon leg bolt washers
Amazon.com Noctua NF-A8 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (80mm, Brown)

#10334 5 months ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Anybody have a link to where I can buy new beast mech springs and clips that holds the top flap? I am missing one. I am sure it is in the cab somewhere but for the life of me I can’t find it.
I think Marco has the clip...13-9002-00
The spring 13-7008-01 is not coming up anywhere.

Maybe it's the same as the medieval madness troll flap spring? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-392-1

#10342 5 months ago
Quoted from xbloodgreenx:

I don’t know if it’s always been like this and I’m just noticing it now, or if it’s always been this way. It looks like the wood at the top of the game, that the head sits on and has the top glass channel is sagging. I have to kinda push down the glass channel so the glass slides in ok. You can also see a gap between the head. Anyone else have this?
[quoted image]

Not exactly the same, but... In mine, that whole strip of wood split during shipping along the line of screws that hold that glass channel in place. I now hold the glass channel in place with double sided tape instead of screws.

#10347 5 months ago

Is it connected to the internet? (Ethernet or WiFi)? My time is working but I’m connected to the internet and am in the same time zone as Chicago…

#10350 5 months ago
Quoted from xbloodgreenx:

wow that sucks, guess it could always be worse.

Yeah, after my experience, I advise people not to ship Hobbits… had a number of areas damaged, some repairable, some - not so much…

#10351 5 months ago

Ok - JJP is looking into it

Quoted from ChrisLIX:

No, not connected..

#10356 5 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Looking to update Hobbit to latest code to include the Bluetooth (scorebit’s). Went to backup my history and upon plugging in usb the machine isn’t recognizing the usb. It just advises to plug-in the usb. Been awhile since I’ve had to backup so not sure what I’m doing wrong???
As I type this post I started to wonder if a backup even needed for this release??

I’d be sure to format the USB first and then double check it’s inserting all the way in. That extension cord has kind of a sunken connector in it that some of my USB’s can’t reach because of how their body is shaped.

#10360 5 months ago

Do you have the WiFi dongle too? The one in your pic is the Bluetooth one for headphone connection but not internet.

TP-Link Nano AC600 USB Wifi... amazon.com link »

<block quote cite="#6293304">It was the USB. Got the software loaded and Scorbits now shows in the menu but need to connect to internet. Purchased the dongle the JJP email recommended but when I go to Network Settings or any settings I am not seeing WiFi. [quoted image]

#10362 5 months ago

Yeah you got it. It’s plug and play. You’ll go into the Utilities part of the menu to set the correct WiFi network and enter the password. There are some open USB spots in the back of the computer that work, but LTG recommended a USB hub so you don’t need to get back there. If you can find his post, he had the particular hub he recommends. Good luck!

Quoted from meSz:

There in lies the problem. Thanks for the posts as I only have the Bluetooth. Just ordered the WiFi one. So once I get the WiFi dongle just plug it in, turn game on and it will recognize it?
Also, for the BT dongle is there somewhere else to plug this in so you can have the WiFi and BT working?
Thanks again

#10373 5 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Just wanted share pic of the menu
[quoted image]

Did you follow the instructions on the website to load the 3.11 code via a USB thumb drive? Have to do that first before any of the WiFi stuff etc will start showing up. WiFi is for future updates, not this one that just came out.

1 week later
#10394 4 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Is it just me or is this game way harder to control the ball on the flippers? Something about the inlane guides are very bouncy, so something I could typically coming from a loop (or similar) tends to bounce so hard it pops back to the opposite sling and gets all out of control. People say this game is too easy, I’d like to see them play mine! Is it just me or do you all notice this?

paynemic It'd be interesting if you could take a video and show us what you mean...? That doesn't sound like anything my machine does...

#10400 4 months ago
Quoted from wilsonza:

I see the servos for the Smaug mech are out of stock at HK:
I don't know a great deal about servos. Any suggestions on an alternative?

wilsonza JJP will sell them to you, but at a higher price.

#10402 4 months ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

I feel the same way, the JJP parts aren’t cheap either this is a better value that looks great and should outlast me-

I paid $65 for a Warg replacement, so these are only ~$25 more per head

#10413 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Where did you buy from?

From JJP... $64.85 shipped for a Warg head on Jan 3rd 2021. I don't have the invoice so can't say how much of that was shipping...

#10416 4 months ago
Quoted from F14tomcat:

Hello, new guy here! So I just scored a Smaug... its currently my favorite pin yet.. There seems to be a spot in the center return between the flippers and I was wondering if thats what it is/was and can I put one there?? like my WOZ I think it would make me happier! lol anyone know about this? thanks F14tomcat

It came with a center post between the flippers. Some of the expert players like the challenge of taking it out. I don't haha.