(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

5 years ago

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  • 10,908 posts
  • 664 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by jsa
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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (5 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (5 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (5 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (5 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (5 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (5 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (5 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (5 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)

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#8088 1 year ago

Hi all, looking to join the club. Please direct me to a link explaining what to look for.
Sorry to ask, I couldn’t readily find one.

1 month later
#8173 1 year ago

Just got a NIB LE, had been in a warehouse sealed in the box but sitting there I guess. Sorted a few problems. One problem is the elf targets work in test up and down but don’t go up in play. When the game starts they wobble like they are trying to go up but can’t. In test they appear as smooth as silk. I reloaded the 3.1 and that fixed a couple of other issues but not this one. Any ideas.

#8185 1 year ago
Quoted from Goronic:

There are plastic ledges that 'hold' the drop target up that could be broken. I found that in test it would sometimes hold, but in game play it did not.
Get a light and look to see if they are broken (when viewing from under the play field). I had to replace my whole assembly to fix that issue. I want to know if anyone has found a way to replace those black plastic 'ledges' instead of having to replace the whole assembly? I seen a few posts ago someone tried with a stern replacement and those didn't fit. I would love to hear from JJP on this - and perhaps I should just call them.
NOTE: If you have the opposite problem and the drop won't go down it is a broken spring. - And that is a quick inexpensive repair (unlike the other)

Thanks, will do both.

1 week later
#8239 1 year ago

Has anyone tried plugging a guitar amp into the headphone jack. Would it work.

#8242 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I wouldnt, but:
Headphone amps are available for headphones.
I use a fiio one. You can also build an altoids box one.

What do you think could go wrong.

4 weeks later
#8357 1 year ago

I have had this game for bit over a month NIB. One spotlight flickers one has stopped working. Taken both globes out bent the wires every way. Swapped globes as well. The flickering one continues and the other won’t work. Checked the connections and reseated. After the connections the wires aren’t traceable. Anyone else had similar spotlight issues and could help.

1 week later
#8448 1 year ago

It’s just an indication of how few people have had the opportunity to live with the game. IMHO you really need to own this game.

3 weeks later
#8612 1 year ago

How do you lite kickback.

2 weeks later
#8695 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Really nicely surprised Houdini auto backs up it's scores and settings. I wish JJP adopted this method also.

Would be good if it auto back up to the cloud daily when they do the connectivity update.
Anyone heard more on internet connection progress.

2 months later
#8904 1 year ago
Quoted from GTO:

Question for all you Hobbit owners: has any of you ever removed the head from the machine (and how difficult is it)? How much of a difference does it make (how much does the head weigh)?
Thanks in advance. I'm looking to possibly buy one and can take a regular pinball machine with my appliance dolly on my own. However, taking a Hobbit upstairs on my own does scare me. Usually my wife spots me when pulling them upstairs, but not looking forward to killing her with this one.

This game is heavy. If you are doing it alone, video it so you can show the emergency dept. They could do with the laugh about now.

#8915 1 year ago

The GiTD rubbers work well with the side blades. Pretty tempted on the blades. Really looks great in photos.

1 week later
#8989 1 year ago

My first Hobbit had spring steel ramp flaps where my second has stainless flaps. The spring steel resulted in a far more energetic movement around the rear ramp bends. As the spring steel settled in, ie bent with ball entrances it became far more difficult to backhand. I had to use Velcro on the bends to slow the ball to stop it bouncing out of the lock side habitrail if a normal shot is hit, while still being able to make the backhand on that flipper setting.
The stainless flaps have settled in shape with hits, the bend is greater but the backhand is easier at a lower flipper setting. Both became harder to backhand as they settled in.
The photo is the stainless flaps. The bend has lifted the flaps from the pf but it plays far better.

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1 week later
#9041 1 year ago

I have the rear castors wound right up on this game. Just wondering if anyone has risers on the rear to reduce the wind and therefore make the game more stable. Ideas, photos or suppliers would be great. Thanks.

#9085 1 year ago
Quoted from meSz:

Anyone have a left slingshot plastic to sell? Mine broke which leads to the question if there's anything to protect these slingshots? Appears to be an issue with the left one always breaking.

Where are these breaking. Will a washer type protector work. Where does it need to go.

#9107 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Joining the club later today!
Any issues) damage I should look out for?
Also, how many balls does the game take?

Tests, Device test. Run all of these. Should cover you. Remember to pull out the isolator switch by the coin door.

#9159 1 year ago

Saw this fix on another thread for another issue. Attach wax paper behind the back glass as a filter. Tried it on TH and must say there is a visible reduction in the colour wash out. Photos are no help with after shots like a lot of pinball photos so only included my test picture of my trial attachment. Hey, it costs nothing and does show a considerable improvement to the point I would say the colour washout is no longer readily apparent. I have no doubt the filters discussed previously in this thread are better but with best of intentions I never got around to buying one. Best 10 mins investment.

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#9204 1 year ago
Quoted from Trumpanche:

pinballinreno 7.1 degrees WHERE? My playfield seems to be bowed by about a degree from the ramps to the flippers... I currently have it set at 7.5-ish at the ramps and 6.5-ish at the flippers. Shoots good enough for my skill level I think?
Anyone else have this kind of inclination difference from the top to the bottom of the playfield?

Yup. Lots of weight in those mechs. Quite a bit of flex in the Pf.

1 week later
#9257 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Beat Smaug again tonight, and what an awesome sequence. Seems to easiest way for me to do it is trap a ball on both flippers, hit the right ramp with the left flipper to load the Wind Lance, and then hope you can hit that target from the right flipper.

But it’s so much more fun from the top flipper.

1 month later
#9364 11 months ago

Keep the keys in the door. Get the ball to a VUK and open the door. Apply beverage to brain as required and resume. Just watch countdown modes, pretty sure they continue.

1 week later
#9444 11 months ago

I Got rid of the spottys, looks much cleaner. The pop up lights eliminates the need for them imho

2 weeks later
#9472 10 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

What's the best stuff to use to clean the black crap off the rubbers .
I'm thinking detergent on a rag ( soapy water ) but is there anything better .
I did read somewhere to use lighter fluid and I also thought about methylated spirits but wouldn't that be corrosive on the rubber .
[quoted image][quoted image]

In Australia, Mr Sheen. Use it for rubbers and playfield. Brilliant.

#9494 10 months ago

To whom ever in the factory drew this face on the coil connector to my Orc pop up. The answer is it ended up in Australia.

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#9495 10 months ago

Happen to be fixing a pop up. Cable tie as in photo or the wires can sever and bind.
My cage need removing then, loosen 4 screws fixing the toy end, align the coil stroke with the pop up stroke so it freely moves, then tighten. First one worked well but used the bottom 4 screws in order to maintain a true alignment when reattaching to the pf. Top 2 float. Pull the Spider and have a play. Don’t disable, gotta fix it or you will end up selling and regretting.
There are other fixes in this thread. This worked for me.

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1 week later
#9550 10 months ago

Sorry I’m sure I saw these were addressed before but can’t seem to find it in the thread now. Two issues:
1) how do I adjust the wind lance to fire into the right orbit consistently? I’ve adjusted both the “strength” and “delay” in the coil settings (can someone explain the difference?) and it’s better but not at all consistent. How do you test this outside of gameplay - just hold a ball there with your finger and fire the coil? Or can you put the post up to hold it somehow while you adjust the coil setting? I also read to bend the metal rail but wanted to make sure I’m doing the other adjustments first.

#7177 by Pinballinreno covers this but very broadly. I would like to get mine running better as well. I have improved it but still would like it better. It’s probably about 10% now, when I first adjusted it it was about 60%.
Could Pinballinreno please help. Thanks.

#9562 9 months ago

Wind lance adjustment. What worked for me.

1. I reduced the strength to the settings in the photo. I slowly reduced it until the speed felt like it was somewhat controllable. Strength is the force the ball is pushed out of the lane by the coil. (The delay is the time between when the ball hits the switch and the coil is fired, for kickback)
2. The ball was hitting the post right of the Radagast VUK. Dropping the strength reduced the force but it still hit the post.
I removed the 2 screws holding the left metal rail in the Windlance outlane from the side rail, leaving the top nut which holds the rail to the pf. No need to remove plastics and ramp etc. I placed a finger in the middle of the curve radius and gently increased the bend in the metal rail by bending the loose end towards the centre of the machine. After testing for correct adjustment, replaced screws.
- By lifting the pop up post and putting a rag to hold it up under Pf. Lower pf and place ball in windlance.
- menu, test, coils, kickback. Pull coin door switch to enable coils. Start button fires coil.

I hope this helps someone. It’s really disappointing to get the kill Smaug shot and not get a chance at the shot as intended.

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1 week later
#9597 9 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

I need a mod gate for between the bottom flippers too. I think this will drastically increase my use of the bottom flippers.

It had to be said.

1 month later
#9803 8 months ago

The pinball gods must be pleased.

#9856 7 months ago

Dialed In is worthy too. Get em before the Stern Army wake from their hypnosis.

1 month later
#10115 6 months ago

The external volume control will lower the volume and mute from the maximum. The maximum volume is set in the settings menu.
If you lower the volume externally then you can raise it back to that level say for a wizard mode.

#10129 6 months ago
Quoted from mjfisher:

Thank you (and jorant). Turns out at some point I'd adjusted the Kickback strength and Kickback delay. Can't ever remember doing it but I obviously did Set them back to factory defaults and now my spider doesn't get bashed any more

During arrow launch modes is the ball still going nicely from the arrow launch, up the right orbit for the upper flipper shot after returning to factory settings.

1 month later
#10255 5 months ago

If you have a gap between your teeth you don’t go to the dentist to make it bigger.

3 weeks later
#10382 4 months ago

Works on mine

1 month later
#10468 3 months ago

Just a warning that this happened. The nut was backed off as well. The washer has since been added.

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#10488 3 months ago
Quoted from DCP:

I do that to all my games! On The Hobbit, don't forget the switch behind the top rubber ring above the pop bumpers. This switch triggers the two upper bumpers and adds a lot of action to the pop bumpers.
Mine were kind of dead until I adjusted that switch.

Which switch do you mean

2 months later
#10666 45 days ago

Just killed Smaug, haven’t done it for a while. Really can’t think of another moment in pinball that beats the feeling. The nature of the shot under pressure. The precise shot required when you get there. The flippers dying, the video, light show, sounds. What a game. Had it since new, can’t ever see any chance of selling it. How lucky we are to have this incredible piece of engineering and magic in our lives. There is a pinball god.

#10667 45 days ago

Here posteth mine shrine.

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#10682 44 days ago

Your first JJP pin, make room, you have opened the door. They breed.

1 week later
#10731 36 days ago
Quoted from clearstar:

Recently picked up a Hobbit LE!
Where has this game been all my life? I'm about 50 games in and I'm not understanding how this is commonly rated last among JJPs (or a lot of machines for that matter).
It has literally caused me to have a knee jerk reaction and dump every Stern I have that doesn't have proper theme integration (imo of course). That's left me with keeping only Mando Prem & JP Prem, which I think are close from a theme integration perspective.
For a newer player like me, the theme & audio capturing you into the game, will allow you to shoot for hours regardless of the playfield. Again, can only speak for myself.
Someone tell me if I'm missing out on another machine like The Hobbit somewhere !

Dialed In is the best shooting pin I have ever owned for me. Jump on one before everyone realises.

3 weeks later
#10852 10 days ago

Test everything.
Good place to start is Test/device test I think. That will run thru drop targets, pop ups, dragon head. Should show you major problems above normal tests like switches, lights. Mind blowing engineering show. Don’t forget to pull the isolators switch to prevent heart attack.

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