(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,828 posts
  • 515 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Wildbill327
  • Topic is favorited by 189 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1041 3 years ago

Standard #103 should be with me tomorrow. Stern were taking too long building my TWD and have lost a sale. It'll look nice next to WOZ Only problem is my back is still injured from moving that one, I'm going to have to hire people to move it into the house for me.

#1047 3 years ago
Quoted from flipnout1:

One of the biggest reasons to buy an Escalera! Don't hurt yourself

They cost nearly $2000 here.

#1051 3 years ago

I don't have $2k for something I'll use a couple of times in total. I wonder if it's possible to hire one, but I'm talking to the distributor about getting an installation service - or at least a "main cabinet as far as the lounge and up on legs" service - I have to take the head off for it to come in but those are easy. Actually an escalera won't work on our front doorstep anyway, there's a UPVC lip 2 inches high that you can't put weight on, it'd just snap.

What I could really do with is borrowing a couple of hydraulic lift trolleys. Get it on one of them, wheel it up to the door and slide it from one to the other through the doorway.

1 month later
#1845 3 years ago

I have this exact same problem with my SE that we finally unpacked and got inside the house today. The glass is identical width to WOZ but the cabinet is 1/32" wider. I have no cabinet splitting evident or anything like that, the problem is even top and bottom of the glass.

On WOZ the glass is held fairly well with only minor movement side to side available. On Hobbit unless you position the glass perfectly it falls onto the edge of the wood instead on one side. You have to slide in the glass at a diagonal angle and carefully straighten up when it's in, to get it resting correctly.

My guess is the channels for the plastic guide have been cut wrong or the manufacturer of the plastic guides has changed the spec. The edge of the plastic is a clear 2mm away from the edge of the wood on both sides. Not going to be an easy fix to this - some nylon liners about 2mm wide placed on the inside of the glass channels would at least centre it properly and stop this happening.

How the fuck did they leave the factory like this?

#1847 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Yes I know - what I'm asking is if they are adequate to eliminate the need for third party leg protectors. This is my first pin with these external metal brackets.

They work fine but you need to do two things:

1) The legs will all have a sharp burr on them, near the top of each leg half way between the bolt holes you'll see where the angle of the leg changes. Check both inner surfaces and you'll probably find a sharp little point, file it away - takes seconds.

2) Make sure the leg is positioned correctly when bolting it down - check the clearance while doing so at these points you've filed. If it's lined up perfectly you should be able to just get a fingernail underneath on both sides where that filed point was.

I've had to file those bits on WOZ and Hobbit so far. If you don't do the above the little points can dig in and damage the decal. Happened to me on WOZ but luckily I noticed as it happened and you can't see any damage now.

#1848 3 years ago

Does anyone have a video of their Smaug talking while parked and in test mode? Mine doesn't seem to move very well, it's like hes mumbling. Does anyone else have that problem or is it normal?

Update:
Two things with Smaug head.

1) Mouth seems really stiff to operate and I suspect why he mumbles - ideas?
2) Stepper motor is constantly applying hold voltage! This means the motor becomes burning hot, is that normal? Easy to check - if you turn his head by hand with the game switched on, does it freely and easily move or does it feel like it's stepping between positions? I could hear my motor chattering a lot and it had started to heat the playfield up... Whole bracket assembly burning to the touch.

Extra check required from someone:
When your head is parked and you go into test mode, is the Smaug left limit switch active? Mine activates when doing left/right testing in test mode, but if the game is just left there and the head is parked, the switch is inactive which seems wrong.

#1854 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Jjp sent me the nylon fix for the glass. It was easy and works much better now. A service ticket is needed if you have this issue.

Thanks, going to be one of those multi-tickets unfortunately.

So far:
Glass not fitting correctly
Rollover jamming balls (fixed)
Smaug motor overheating & mouth stiff
Frame for LCD screen falling off due to overtightening & bowing of the protective plastic it sticks to.
Some loose drop target stop screws (fixed)

#1857 3 years ago

By the way is there a solution for balls flying off the right wireform? Pinside really ought to start keeping a common problems & updates thread per game.

#1861 3 years ago

I wonder why JJP didn't put mylar all the way around the trolls - after 4 games I have scratching to the clearcoat behind 3/4 of them.

#1866 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I responded to your post on the other thread you posted to and I agree about putting Mylar all the way around. I imagine it was put only at the bottom for easy installation? Just guessing.
I will be installing Mylar at the top of my pop ups. I just checked and all four are digging into the clear after 220 plays.

I'm asking support about this, perhaps it was changed between models. Mine is a standard edition made in May.

Your videos by the way are the one of the reasons I have a Hobbit, so thanks (I think )

#1950 3 years ago

Well mine is still offline until I can get the rest of the trapdoor mylar but the list of problems has grown a bit. Just diagnosed the lamp problem, someone at the factory cable tied the lamp board B to C cable so tight that it's actually damaged it internally. Just tested with an old cat5 cable I had and bingo, solid lamps again near the back.

However I still have problems with Smaug - it would really help if some owner(s) could play their game for 15 minutes and let me know if the smaug rotation motor gets really hot. Mine had the whole bracket hot to the touch. Also if you switch the game into test mode from attract, does the Smaug left stop switch show as active? Mine works, but it seems to park just off the switch as if it can't really hold it there and I wonder if this results in a stronger hold voltage or something crazy like that. Or maybe they just burn hot as the sun as standard?

#1955 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

Sorry I meant to check this for you The last time you asked. I got my Mylar installed yesterday so I will play for a while tonight and let you know re: the motor.

Damn that was fast - my last JJP ticket took nearly 2 months.

#1965 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I haven't received my update kit yet but I did get the mylar. Definitely call them.
I tested my Smaug motor temperature this evening. At idle after letting the game sit in attract mode for approximately 15 minutes, the temperature with my infrared heat gun was 91°. This was measured on the bottom of the motor itself. If I powered off the game the temperature dropped quickly, say ~ 3° in 5 seconds. After playing a few games it went up to 93° by the time I got the playfield up where I could register it and the temperature dropped quickly as expected.
It's hot to the touch but not hot enough that I would be concerned. I would have to keep my finger on the surface for 2-3 seconds to start to really feel the heat.

Regarding the Smaug switches if I power on the game, the game goes into attract. Then I go right into setup into device tests and select the Dragon (SMAUG) Head Test. The "Dragon (Smaug) Limit - left" switch is active.
I would ask JJP about that as well.

Is that 91F or 91C? I know that sounds like a silly question... I'm going to need to buy one of those heat guns, I've got no way to measure it. Definitely doesn't park correctly though.

#1969 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I haven't received my update kit yet but I did get the mylar. Definitely call them.
I tested my Smaug motor temperature this evening. At idle after letting the game sit in attract mode for approximately 15 minutes, the temperature with my infrared heat gun was 91°. This was measured on the bottom of the motor itself. If I powered off the game the temperature dropped quickly, say ~ 3° in 5 seconds. After playing a few games it went up to 93° by the time I got the playfield up where I could register it and the temperature dropped quickly as expected.

My Smaug is stopping correctly now even though I haven't touched anything, I'm assuming a cable being tied wrong is to blame.

However, the motor after 20 minutes was up to 99 degrees on the back surface and takes 5 full minutes before the temperature starts to drop at all.

Also noticed the printing on my playfield isn't the best - pictured is the worst bit by far - those lines to some degree run all the way down. A little bit of grain visible on the right catching the light too. It's not like the sheet of perfect glass that my WOZ resembles.

hobbit_PF (resized).jpg

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