(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


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  • 12,997 posts
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  • Latest reply 29 hours ago by LTG
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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (8 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (8 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (8 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (7 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (7 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (7 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (7 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (7 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (7 years ago)


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#9276 3 years ago

My apologies for not reading the entire thread, but can someone summarize the most common issues with this game? I’m supposed to be going to look at one in a few hours with a friend and I’d like to be prepared.

Just a quick list of “check this”, “this is a known issue”, etc.

Thanks!

#9279 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

And his mouth works, though I imagine by now many games will have issues with the mouth.
Ramp flaps curling is a know issue on earlier game. Easy fix, but a little time consuming. Wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me.
Not much else, game is very reliable.

Awesome. Thanks. I’m assuming there is a fix for the mouth / head issues? I saw some pictures of the ramp flaps while poking around.

#9298 3 years ago
Quoted from Antron77:

Troubleshooting I did was got the multimeter out tested the voltage on the motherboard battery and the 12 pin connector seated on the mother board. They tested fine, 3 volts, 5 volts, and 12 volts all where they are supposed to be. Tried the jump start with a paperclip and didnt work(although mine has a wire basically built in as a jump start, pic below). Took off the big lcd screen and hooked the game up to a separate monitor which wouldn't boot. Reseated the long green chip on the motherboard(forgot the name of it). Basically reseated every connector in the backbox and bottom of the cabinet. Everything looked fine and nothing helped.

Keep in mind, just because the power supply test good with a multimeter doesn't mean that it's good. I've seen multiple power supplies test fine with a power supply tester, but as soon as you throw a load on them they crap out.

I'd grab a new one for testing. You can just set it to the side and hook up the connectors in case that isn't the issue.

#9302 3 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

I had a WOZ go down and it was a connector that I did not notice had come out - I was chasing the CPU board for a bit and like somebody else said it was a power supply board - get this part amazon.com link » and see if you can rule out the power or rule it in as the issue. For me the telling sign was the fans would power on for a second then kick off. Also I did the reseat of the memory prior to finding the power issue, and did not seat that back in well, so once I solved the power supply issue I found I had created another that acts in the same way, so if you reseated the memory prior to sending out you should be fine as JJ checked your board, if you did it after try that one again as well.

That tester won't put a load on the power supply. I've seen way to many over the years that test fine but can't handle the load when hooked up. I stopped carrying my tester and just carry an extra power supply. It's just as fast to hook up a spare power supply as it is to hook up the tester.

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