(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 days ago by pinballinreno
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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (6 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (6 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (6 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (6 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (6 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (5 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (5 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (5 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)


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#6097 3 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I really want to like this game and am thinking about trading my AFM SE for one this summer. However, after finally getting some time on the game I am completely lost. Does anybody have a particular walkthrough or video they would recommend above the others that does a good job of explaining the pin? It seems like a really deep pin that would hold up well in a small lineup... but I gotta understand the rules.

Version 3.4 of the manual on the JJP website explains every mode and includes the super useful game flowchart.

5 months later
#7025 2 years ago

I've got a lead on a 1st run LE. It has the new popups and updated left rail guide installed along with latest software. Is there anything else I should be looking for on a first run LE?

It also has a factory installed playfield protector on it which I would want to remove. How much work am I looking at to get that thing off? I'll also have to readjust the LOCK rollovers correct?

#7041 2 years ago

Has anyone ever gotten a software update to work with a memory stick larger than 8 Gig? The manual states exactly 8 Gig vs. at least.

#7048 2 years ago

And I'm part of the club! First run LE, #866 of 1500. Just updated her from 2.0 to 3.1. She only had 199 games on her, game 200 was my test play! It does have the old ramp flaps which are curling. The ramp will be going back to JJP this coming week to have the new flaps installed. All other required modifications had already been done. Custom splash screen also loaded now.

Almost 400 miles of driving today to get her here, just shy of 8 hours on the road. As far as I know she is the first JJP machine ever in St. Mary's county MD.

Is anyone interested in a full playfield protector? She came with one and I'm thinking about taking it off. It does look like it would be a lot of work to get off without cutting. Can or should it be waxed? Thoughts on them in general?

I also need to get some Titan rings on order and plastic protectors from PinBits.

Has anyone done gold balls for the captive balls? I think it would look pretty sharp. I would just need to find them.
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#7055 2 years ago

I'm looking at the Pinbits plastic protectors and it looks like they provide two sets of sling shot protectors. Does anyone know why that would be the case? Are there different versions of sling shot plastics for the game? I've emailed them directly to also verify that they are cut in clear plastic.

#7061 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

It’s incredibly hard to even get to, much less finish

Not to mention trying to get to Battle of the Five Armys. This game is so deep it's scary. Finished Level 3 of Into the Fire this morning, it was crazy intense!

#7080 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Quick question, after i light ,ITF, what do i have to shoot to start it?
Never have time to look around on this game.

Radagast hole on the right side.

#7082 2 years ago

99% sure you just need to shoot the hole again.

#7101 2 years ago

And the ramp is out. This job was as un-fun as you would think. Probably took me around 2 hours start to finish. Getting those optos off may have been the worst nerve racking part. Pro tip, stuff a rag in each gobble hole before you start. You are going to drop something in one of them and lose 30+ minutes trying to get it the hell out. Ask me how I know...

Detailed photos of the process to remove in the next post.

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#7102 2 years ago

This is how it goes. Putting it back together should be a lot faster and easier. Famous last words...

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#7112 2 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

I HIGHLY recommend unplugging the optos from the board underneath and leaving them attached to the ramp. Those things are stupid troublesome to get snapped back in. Make a note on each molex what port they came out of on the board. Ask me how I know heh heh.

Well this would have been good to know yesterday...

I figured snapping them back in would be the easy part. Any good tricks for getting them back in?

#7125 2 years ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Could you share pics w/ pop rivets?
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced tool for using solid rivets on ramps? Looks like there are ~clamp-like tools out there that might work?

For what it's worth I just sent my ramp back to JJP to have them do the work. I had to pay for an hour of labor and shipping both ways. The tools I was looking at were most of my cost for sending it back so I decided to just have them do it. The rest of the cost was worth the piece of mind that it's done perfectly. It should be back here early next week.

#7139 2 years ago

Updating is simple and 3.1 is a huge jump for this game. Just make it happen, took me all of 10 minutes.

#7141 2 years ago

The change log is a text document that tells you what has been done in the code. Nothing more. Just download the 3.1 full install and do the update.

#7143 2 years ago

For even more detail, go to the JJP Support Page, choose The Hobbit.

Download The Hobbit Full Install 3.10 [USA Mirror] *NEW*

The .iso file is big, like 4 gig big, it will take some time.

While the .iso is downloading go to this website:

https://rufus.ie/

Download Rufus 3.5 from the link provided on the page.

Rufus allows you to create a boot-able USB stick with the .iso that you are downloading.

Get a data stick, at least 8 gig in size. Use Rufus to create the boot-able USB stick. This will take maybe 15 minutes depending on how fast your PC is.

Turn your pinball machine off.

Open the coin door and plug the USB stick in.

Power the game on and let it do it's thing. The update will take 10, maybe 15 minutes. It will tell you when it's done.

Once it tell you it is done, shut the machine off and remove the USB stick.

Turn the machine back on and enjoy Keefer's magic that is v3.1.

#7149 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Backup your current settings on a different usb stick first, otherwise all the settings will go back to the default settings and you will have to tweak the settings/preferences back in from memory.

I'd also recommend turning Beast Multiball stacking ability off. The default setting allows stacking. When you turn it off you can no longer have Smaug and Beast multiball running at the same time.

That is the only factory default setting I changed.

1 week later
#7165 2 years ago

Does anyone know what the color temperature is for the LED strip in the backbox? I'm guessing it's 6000.

Looking to add lighting on the side and bottom of the backglass art:

amazon.com link »

I should just be able to jumper off the existing strip with these:

amazon.com link »

All and all I should be able to do the whole thing for well under $20.

Thoughts?

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#7168 2 years ago

Perhaps I'm at an advantage being an electrical engineer but I don't see this as labor extensive at all. In fact it looks pretty simple. For less than $20 in material I could do at least 4 machines. So $5 a machine.

I'll get the stuff ordered up in a few days and do a tutorial on the process. I can probably even put the extras into some cheap kits if anyone is interested.

#7173 2 years ago

Lermods - I never said a word about your product. I asked about color temp for an LED strip. You jumped in and said it would be "labor intensive", I disagreed. Then somehow this became a topic about the value of my time. Time is priceless, it's can't be bought or stored for a rainy day. I think it's great you are offering a service for owners who want to avoid as much risk as possible and plug and play. I could care less about your profit margins and how you run your business. I will say that this interaction has ensured I will never purchase anything from you.

1 week later
#7185 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Looking for input on new rubber set for my hobbit. Titan, white standard rubbers etc.

I just did color matched Titan rings on mine. Once I get my ramp situation fixed I'll have lots of photos up. I created a kit on the Titan website.

#7187 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Thnx for the post. Pics would be appreciated...what kit did you create, the one on 6/15?

Yes 6/15/2019 is the one I built out.

#7191 2 years ago

Sneak peak at my color matched Titan rings. Can't wait to see how they pop with the lights on when the ramp is back in.

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#7195 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinchild:

Did you shop the machine?
If so was it hard?
I got mine today and am ashamed to admit it has 28,000 games played on it.
Seems to work fine but the 4 posts that light playfield are all not on? Any ideas.
Thanks in advance for any information.

I had to remove my ramp as it was an early run with the old ramp flaps. Otherwise the machine only has 199 games played when I bought it. It's a little bit of work to get the ramp out, maybe 90 minutes when you do it the first time.

#7207 2 years ago

Since gold ring buttons are no longer available I went ahead and did some R&D work for anyone else that gets to this party late.

Remove your ring button and place it upside down in a bench vice. Make sure the vice is open just enough to allow the center part of the button to move. Cover the vice with a microfabric towel. One or two light taps with a hammer will pop the center section of the button out.

Grab some 600 grit sand paper and rough up the area the paint will go. This will make that area nice and cloudy. Don't skimp on this, when you think you have sanded enough do it all over again.

Wash the part to get all the dust off and get it nice and dry. Use blue painters tape to mask off the rest of the area. See my attached photos.

Google says Design Master makes the best gold spray paint. This can was purchased at Michael's for about $6. This is enough paint to make 50 to 100 buttons if I had to guess.

Nice light coats, allow drying time in between. I did three coats, two would probably have been fine. Allowed 15 minutes or so between coats.

Design Master recommendeds NOT using a clear coat so I didn't. I've rubbed the hell out of this thing and the color is holding with no issue. Amazing what a good sanding job can do for you.

Press the button back together and reinstall in your machine. Total cost per button for this MOD, somewhere between 60 cents and $1.20 if you use your existing button. Total time required was under an hour, most of which is watching paint dry...

It looks fantastic and now I need to order the fancy plate to replace the sticker on the lockdown bar.

I hope other find this helpful in the future. This is a super cheap was to make your game look even better.

Enjoy!
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#7209 2 years ago

And the engraved plate over at Mezel MODs is out of stock now... Anyone know of another source to pick one up?

1 week later
#7250 2 years ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

Did you ever figure out the color temp. Looks super easy to make and install.

I'm almost positive it's 6000. I found the 4mm strip, just need to get it ordered.

#7251 2 years ago

I'm still looking to source an engraved Ring Button Plate in the US if anyone knows where to find one.

I have recreated the plate in CAD in case there are no more to be had. I would just need to track down a shop that could cut and engrave the plate. If anyone knows of such a place please let me know.

#7265 2 years ago

Mezel Mods found one last engraved Ring Button plate hidden away which is now in route to me.

I have created a CAD drawing of the plate in case anyone wants to try and have more made in the future. Just let me know if you want it.

Fingers crossed my ramp finally ships from JJP today. Maybe I can get to play this machine on my birthday come Saturday.

#7266 2 years ago

40 days later my Hobbit is back up and running. Time to put up some numbers.

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#7269 2 years ago

Still debating removing the playfield protector. Should the playfield protector be waxed like a normal playfield? I can't imagine that it should be but maybe that is where the extra speed I'm looking for is hiding. Engraved Ring Plate arrived in the mail late today, I'm going to install it this evening. Photos to follow.

#7270 2 years ago

And done. Looks so much better than the sticker and should last forever.

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#7273 2 years ago

Do the lids for the Beasts sit flush to the playfield on machines that don't have a playfield protector installed?

On my machine with the protector the lids sit on top of the protector causing a pretty good lip. This sometimes gets the ball airborne and adds some nasty spin and redirects at times.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

#7277 2 years ago

Good riddance! Lower Beast lids look good, top two will need lowered.

Should the lock roll over buttons be flush to the playfield when depressed all the way down? If so they will also need adjusted.

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#7282 2 years ago

So I think I just cracked the case for Lock Rollover Buttons that don't press down flush.

If your machine had a playfield protector like mine did check the top of your lock rollovers. What I discovered this evening was that mine had mylar disks on top of them to make them taller. See the pictures below.

I peeled them off and cleaned up the top of the buttons to get excess glue off. Now they sit perfectly flush when pressed down. They also seem a little quicker to rebound. I can't play test it right now since the kids are asleep but I'll be back with a report earlier tomorrow.

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#7284 2 years ago

And the promised update. Second test game this morning I started Barrel Escape for the first time ever with a 4 star mode completed. Did poorly in it unfortunately and didn't even crack 50K for the Mode. Just missed my GC score, just shy of one million.

I'm going to call this issue solved. The ball rolled and tracked as I expected and never did anything really crazy. Didn't notice any air balls either. Now if I could just crack the million mark...

By the way I added a little something to my yellow targets behind the drops.

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#7286 2 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

When was your pin assembled?

04-22-2016

#7326 2 years ago

What are your flipper power settings everyone? I'm getting a lot of nasty rejects from the left ramp. Ball gets up it with plenty of pace but seems to hit the corner where the right side sections meet. The only way I've found to get around this is to crank my left flipper to max power. This powers it through the clunk but then I feel that flipper is far too strong for everything else.

#7328 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Adjust the playfield pitch to 7.1 degrees.
Adjust flipper settings so that you can make either ramp from either flipper from a cradled position.
The ball should make the ramp easily but not overly fast.

I am at 7.1* now.

Right ramp shoots fine with stock flipper power. Left ramp likes to clunk around unless I turn it all the way up. I'm wondering if I need to do something to adjust the ramp.

#7341 2 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

First ensure you're not dealing with ramp flap curl. For whatever reason it seems to he more predominate on the left than the right. Keep in mind the lock buttons cause air balls which also affects ball speed/trajectory.
Secondly, the ball should have enough speed/power to make the ramp shot but not where it hauls ass. If the flipper power is set too strong, the ball will fly off the hobbit trail on the right and potentially cause magnet catch issues on the left. There truly is a fine balance to set when it comes to flipper power on this game. I should mention I did have to ever so slightly bend the right hobbit trail to allow enough flipper power on the right flipper. The ball would fly off and get stuck on the right hand plastics which requires pulling the glass.

Game just had the new ramp flaps installed by JJP. My old ramp had lots of curl and still shot better than this one does. I swear it's something with the geometry of this new ramp.

#7344 2 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Check the ramp anchor screws - and what I mean by that is if you screw those down all the way it introduces ramp curl. Back em off a bit and look at that ramp flap from every angle ya can and ensure you don't see a "curl" type shadow.

I'll give this a try as I do have those screws holding the ramp down tight.

How much is enough? Should the flap be drawing a straight line from the playfield to the rest of the ramp?

#7350 2 years ago

OK so now I've backed the ramp screws out to the point that they are not really applying any downward force on the ramp at all. Just in enough to be flush with the holes in the ramp. Backed flipper power down to stock settings and got a few test games in. This seems to be better but I'll need a few more games of testing to know for sure.

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#7354 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

I noticed this for the first time...I guess I don't look up enough. What does the ball on the screen next to Radagast symbolize?[quoted image]

It means you have one Mode Lock ball ready to go. If you added a second Mode Lock ball it would show two up there. If you drain you lose any Mode Locks you have stashed away that ball.

#7355 2 years ago

Still some nasty rejects off the ramp this morning so I've upped both left and right flipper power 3 clicks above the stock value. I've also reduced the power of the left lane kick back by 4 clicks which seems to set up the upper right flipper better for drop target shots and to someday kill Smaug. I still need to reduce my auto plunger value as I feel it is too strong at stock value. Someday I'll get this thing dialed in.

#7360 2 years ago

Managed to finish Riddles in the Dark this morning which allowed a 4x Into the Fire. Over 770,000 from that after falling just short of Level 4. Just got lucky that Riddles gave easier shots than normal stacked with a multiball. Finally cracked a Million! (I don't allow Beast and Smaug multiballs to stack.)

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#7363 2 years ago

1 star = 1/4 value Wizard
2 star = 1/2 value Wizard
3 star = Full value Wizard
4 star = 2x value Wizard
5 star = 4x value Wizard

I'm always trying to start a Wizard mode with at least a 3 star completed.

#7372 2 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

Question. If you complete two modes before Into the Fire, which one gets counted towards the scoring on the wizard mode?

The one with the higher star rating.

1 week later
#7446 2 years ago

I have balls coming off the right ramp and getting stuck right above the upper flipper. This happens at least once every 20 games or so. Any suggestions on adjustments to prevent this?

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#7450 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I turned and raised the tie wrap on that hex post so that the ball would fit through, making sure the wire wasn't in the way also. There was enough space on mine for that to be the fix.

I should have spotted this. Rotated the ziptie head and now the ball can at least get out if it falls off the wireform.

I also loosened the hex head on that post some in hopes it solves the main issue of the ball come off.

Appreciate all the feedback and ideas. Time to test!

#7455 2 years ago

I'd email JJP support and see what they say.

Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Hi guys, new owner of Hobbit here, purchased from the original owner (an arcade) that had operated it since January. Machine was made in August 2018, and I'm running the newest software, 3.10.
I've been having an issue with LED's 'freezing' after the pin has been on for an extended period of time (a couple hours or so). This can happen during gameplay or attract mode, the lights will just quit changing colors and will stay on whatever color happened to be lit up at the time of the issue. The game continues to otherwise function fine, with sounds/animations/scoring all working, it's purely an LED issue (but does make the game essentially unplayable). Game returns to normal after being reset.
I've searched and seen some other people with the same issue but haven't seen a solution. Any ideas? I PM'ed LTG but he had no suggestions. As this is my first 'nice' game it's been a little disheartening how many issues have come up (I've had the glass out almost every day since I purchased it 10 days ago), but I can at least wrap my head around the other problems, I'm at a loss on this one.
Thanks for any help.

#7463 2 years ago

If the game is only HUO and the problem only shows up after hours and hours of being on, why not just power cycle the game to clear the issue? I never let games in my collection just sit on all the time.

#7471 2 years ago

I'd also try reloading software. Full image overwrite.

#7473 2 years ago

Stick with 3.10. Download a fresh copy, make a new USB stick image, and overwrite everything.

3 weeks later
#7598 2 years ago

My right hole is just about impossible to backhand. It's either way too early or clunks out. I think the Titan post sleeves are just a touch bigger in diameter than the stock ones were making it a much harder shot.

#7603 2 years ago

I can post past on my machine with no issue. It's just that backhand shot to the right hole from a trap, always wants to rattle out and reject.

1 week later
#7623 2 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Been getting a switch failure on boot. Says "LH & RH Flipper EOS" dedicated switch failure... The flippers work fine. What is my problem and how do I repair it?
Thanks,

The system hasn't seen those switches closed in too long of a time so it has thrown that error. Sounds like your end of stroke switches need to be adjusted.

1 month later
#7777 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so how many modes do you guys go into mini wizard mode with? 2? 5?

Doesn't matter. All that matters is the highest star level mode you have completed before going into the mini wizard mode. At the very least I want to have a 3 star mode done when starting a min-wizard so I at least get 1x value. A 4 star mode yields 2x and a 5 star mode turns everything up to 11 at 4x.

If I happen to finish a 1 or 2 star mode in a multiball or just by luck, I will focus on getting a higher star mode finished before starting the mini wizard. Into the Fire at 1/4 or 1/2 value is a real downer.

1 month later
#8012 2 years ago
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:

I figured maybe id get some good feedback here. Deadpool premium for a hobbit smaug se. good trade? I have the deadpool, i also have a mint LOTR and thought Hobbit would look good next to it. Opinions? Thanks in advance

My Hobbit is bolted to the floor. I've played a bunch of Deadpool and it's a fine game but not on the same level as Hobbit IMO. You may be able to to swing some cash your way in that trade since Deadpool has so much hype right now.

1 month later
#8097 2 years ago

Smaug's mouth has adjustments in the service menu. If the servo end points are set too far in either direction the servo will bind. When a servo binds it pulls crazy amps. Crazy amps = crazy heat.

I know when I got my Hobbit the stock mouth settings was binding the servo when Smaug's mouth was closed. You could hear the servo buzz like crazy in the test mode. His mouth is shut most of the time so you can imagine the stress and heat.

Make sure you run that test and back each endpoint off until you don't hear the servo buzzing. I'd even go another value or two away from that point to be safe.

All little tricks I brought over from years of setting up large scale RC airplanes. Hope it helps.

2 weeks later
#8143 2 years ago

The only 5 star I've ever finished was Riddles in the Dark. Took that Into the Fire level 4 for something north of 750,000 points. That was an epic ride. I always try to start a mini wizard mode with at least a 3 star mode completed. 1/4 value with a 1 star and 1/2 value with a 2 star stings too bad.

#8149 2 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

you are probably right on that one - I just replied assuming that is what he meant

If we want to get really technical they are Arkenstone Modes. I consider each of the three a mini Wizard Mode. The only true Wizard Mode in the game is There and Back Again. I've never been close to that one since I'm really picky about what modes I start and when I start them. I love how this game plays like a giant puzzle.

#8159 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

What do people think is the " easiest " 5 star mode .

Riddles in the Dark

#8174 2 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Hmmm. Sling mylar or no? If so, wax first?
Anyone have any good videos on waxing? I keep trying to find them. I don't feel I'm a competent waxer.

Buffalo Pinball has a good YouTube video on waxing.

#8181 2 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Just water on a rag to clean?
Or something harder like naptha? I haven't played this yet. Only had 2 games on it from the factory. NIB.

Naptha, never ever water.

1 week later
#8262 2 years ago
Quoted from OchoFosho:

I've also got an issue with my right (Kili) spinner. It works perfectly in test mode and in matrixed text mode, but I have never seen it register in the game. Glass off in a game and I cannot get it to register at all, but never misses a beat in the test mode. Could this be a code issue? Should the right spinner always register and help advance to Erebor just like the left one does (which works fine by the way)?
I have the most recent code in this machine. It is a Black Arrow edition if that makes any difference.
Thanks,
RLF

Both spinners should advance to Erebor.

1 week later
#8314 2 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Just noticed last night while my daughters were playing Hobbit that Smaug's mouth was not moving. He turns and lights up, but just recently the mouth has stopped. I went into the test coils this am and saw all the Smaug tests were in blue. Everything else was gray, and I could test everything except the blue Smaugs in the picture. I removed and reinstalled the USB, and boy was that thing all bent up from the factory. I'm thinking I might have a bad USB cable at this point? Thoughts from the guru's out there? Thanks!
Murphy[quoted image]

Did you ever check the calibration for his min and max mouth movement? There is a specific test menu for just that.

On mine, the stock value for the mouth closed setting was binding the servo. You could hear the servo buzz like crazy crushing his jaws together. Servos do not like to bind. When they bind they pull tons of current and in turn get stupid hot. I think this is why a lot of peoples Smaugs stop talking over time, the servo fries from binding. I was lucky and adjusted mine early in it's life.

Good luck.

2 weeks later
#8361 2 years ago
Quoted from chaz009:

How do I know if I have a Pindemtion dongle? I’m the second owner. If I don’t have it, how do I get it?
Second question, once and a while the beasts get stuck up. All I need to do is jiggle the springs and I can get it to go down. Is there something I can spray (or otherwise do) to get the springs to work a little better?
Thanks again. Awesome pin btw.

The Beasts should drop like a stone, no lube needed. Something is bent or out of adjustment. Lift the playfield and inspect further.

#8377 2 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

Anybody else have a problem with mental or physical stamina while playing this game? Personally, I often have marathon games and after a long while, I have trouble maintaining my attention on the objectives and just start spraying the ball towatds lighted inserts and targets. Also, my hands start slipping on the lockdown bar and my legs get spongy.

Change your pitch to 7.2 degrees.

#8422 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

The shadow is beating The Hobbit , we can't let that happen , get over to the thread and give The Hobbit a vote .
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/greatest-pinball-game-of-all-time-tournament-edition

Hobbit is still getting crushed vs TS which is an absolute joke. Just way too much hate out there for Hobbit from the early days of code.

All and all a good thing for me as I was able to pick mine up for a great price.

#8438 2 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/consolation-bracket-greatest-pinball-game-of-all-time-te#post-5579824

Let's make sure Hobbit wins the NIT folks... The fact that Indy 500 is anywhere near Hobbit is an insult.

#8443 2 years ago
Quoted from oohlou:

What needs to be done to remove the ramp?
I got a Hobbit recently with a playfield protector that I've decided to remove (it was cloudy) and I need to get the ramp out. I've removed the 4 ramp flap screws, 3 1/4 nuts on the left (one under the Erabor molding) and loosened the wireforms but the ramp doesn't want to budge. Is there anything connecting the ramp at the middle / in the backboard? Wat about on the left? If so, I'm not seeing it.

Don't kill yourself trying to get that ramp out, it's one hell of a job. I just took kitchen scissors to the plastic protector on mine when I got it and cut it to bits. There are photos somewhere in this thread. Took maybe 20 minutes to cut it all the way out.

#8444 2 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/consolation-bracket-round-3-greatest-pinball-game-of-all-time-te

Time to get out the vote again! Hobbit should win this round easily but right now is losing.

1 week later
#8498 2 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Is the Smaug magnet that grabs the ball before it falls down next to him and into the subway supposed to grab the ball everytime?
Also, is there a way to test Smaug’s mouth movement? Mine appears to struggle or not move much though I don’t know what’s normal as I just got it.

Yes, there is a Smaug mouth test and calibration. Do it and make sure your servos are not binding. If they bind they will blow the board out over time.

#8512 2 years ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

I don't really have a problem with long games either, just the girlfriend I should really put a limit on the extra balls (I think I've gotten 6 in a single game before?) but not gonna do that until I beat (most of) the game, which still feels a very long ways off. The long game times really do make this feel like a journey though, something I haven't experience in any other pinball and something you can't really experience with this game on location.

LOTR + Hobbit are a good combo for the same reason, despite the themes and some rule similarities they play very different (and Deadpool is probably my favorite Gomez game if I were to ignore themes so I can definitely see it fill the same role). Once we get back into a house hopefully I can expand the lineup but for now I can't complain at all.

Have you changed from stock settings? I may get an extra ball every 10 games or so. I think I've gotten two in a game once and that is over 300 games played at least.

#8514 2 years ago

Hit the Captive Ball 5 times to forge gold, 1/5 chance to light extra ball.

Complete every qualifier, hit roaming drop target before it's gone, light extra ball.

Hit bumpers, reach level 5 for Super Jets, Shoot DWARF drop target with upper flipper to kick over barrel, kick over 'X' barrels, light extra ball.

Those are all I know and are shown in the flow chart. The easiest if getting lucky with the Captive Ball and lighting it after the first 5 hits. (Could take as many as 25 hits) Everything else takes some work and a little luck with the roving targets.

#8555 2 years ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

Is there a repository archive of older versions of the software code? I only see the latest code on the JJP website and I would like to try installing older code versions to see if the problem persists with earlier software installed.

I'd email JJP tech support. They can tell you way more about the errors you are throwing.

1 week later
#8603 2 years ago

Just collected a 67K Super Spinner. Feels so good!

#8605 2 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Ripping those orbits like a gangster huh?!

Love the risk reward of the Super Spinner. I've had it higher and then choked it away by missing the captive ball before time ran out. It can be a ton of points that most people never even think about. Another example of Keefer's genius.

#8608 2 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

You had to be in a multiball right?

Negative. I like to start Super Spinner in single ball play to reduce the risk of hitting the captive ball before I want to cash out.

Once I get Super Spinner running I just focus on ripping the spinners. The mode will time out after 60 seconds. I start trying to collect will less than 10 seconds left most of the time to maximize value. If you can also get Super X running before you cash out it will be 2X. A 70,000 to 140,000 jackpot in this game is no joke. Most people never even think about the value hiding in Super Spinner.

1 week later
#8663 2 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

For the record I consider myself an average player. I've had a couple almost 2 hour long games (I think just shy of 9 mil?) However with this game I find it's not all about skill, but basic common sense approaches that can move you farther along. I've killed Smaug 3 times in a single game a few times. Now keep in mind, I absolutely HATED having beast multiball during Smaug MB so like many others I disabled that. Here's where common sense comes into play. Ask yourselves, do you have a better chance of killing Smaug with your upper flipper or a lower?
When I know Smaug is getting ready to show me his missing scale I cradle a ball on my lower right flipper. Obviously that's NOT a guaranteed kill shot but I do find it greatly increases my chances of being successful. I did a write in this thread about my approach to this game. I do believe it is extremely helpful for those that are having a hard time not only killing Smaug, but progressing towards TABA.

What is the pitch of your playfield?

#8668 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A good playfield pitch for hobbit is 7.1-7.2 degrees, measured on the playfield not on the glass.

Agreed, and that is how mine is set up. I just can't imagine a two hour game with our pitch settings. Still interested to know what theirs was set at.

#8670 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A good game takes me 45 mins to 1 hour to get to 5 mil or higher, botfa, make good progress to there and back etc.
Finishing all 31 modes takes me 2 hours or more lol

Mine must play super mean. I'd have to check my game logs but I doubt I've gone much longer than 30 minutes at around 2 million points. Time and points don't really correlate in this game though. You could shoot the ramps all day and score nothing but be safe. Take 1 star modes into your mini wizard modes and you will only get 25% value. On the other hand, I've take a 5 star mode Into the Fire and scored 750K there alone. That game was well over a million and maybe only ten minutes long if I had to guess.

#8673 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Is there a current rule sheet out there? I just have kinda rejoined the club and am eager to learn but it seems all the rule sheets are outdated big time.

A-18 of the manual has the flow chart. It's an excellent guide to the game.

#8675 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I was more thinking modes’ and multiballs’ individual shots. Is the old version of the rule sheet still up to date on those type things (ie layers of shots to get a chance to kill Smaug)?

Couldn't tell you. Smaug multiball for me is just a tool to finish high star level modes to increase the mini wizard mode values. Smaug MB does do a great job of telling you what to shoot, probably why I don't have it memorized. When it comes to modes, the book on the playfield is your friend. If you really wanted to map all 31+ modes out I guess you could take the glass off and run through them all writing down what is required. Although that also seems kind of silly. There are a few modes that I target and more that I avoid. You don't need to finish them for There and Back Again so I've never invested the time to try and memorize them all.

#8679 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So even your answer begs a question about star levels but I’ll dig deeper

* - 1/4 value mini wizard mode
** - 1/2 value mini wizard mode
*** - Full value mini wizard mode
**** - 2X value mini wizard mode
***** - 4X value mini wizard mode

This may be the most important thing to know about this game. I always try to start a mini wizard mode with AT LEAST a three star mode completed if not four.

My best Into the Fire was after finishing Riddles in the Dark which is maybe the only 5 star mode you have any hope of finishing. That Into the Fire was worth over 750K. Finishing the right modes is worth your time. Keefer writes incredible code.

#8685 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So is it only when you complete a mode that this takes effect? Would it be beneficial to start but not finish a mode if it reduces your score that much?

There is risk reward in finishing say a 1 or 2 star mode if you have not already finished a 3-5 star. Let's say you finish The One Ring early in the game, it's a 1 star and you get some extra points for finishing it. BUT, now you finish everything else for Into the Fire and you haven't finished another higher value mode. If you shoot either gobble hole by mistake your Into the Fire is going to be 1/4 value. Instead now you have to play super careful, try to qualify a solid mode, start that mode, and finish it all without shooting a gobble hole by mistake. That's a serious challenge. Again, it's amazing rules design by Keefer.

#8713 1 year ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Did you guys see the post on Facebook that JJP said that all their machines should play at 6.5 if the leg levelers are screwed in flush and just adjusted if the floor is not level. If that is the case I bet I am playing my hobbit at 7.5 or 8!
It does play fast this way - which I have gotten used to. I am not sure I can go back to 6.5 (if I am way over it now).
Going to get a digital level to double check for sure...

I literally laughed out loud when I saw that post they made. Hobbit needs to be at 7.2* or more. Otherwise I would understand why people think it's a boring slog. I read about these two hour games and can only imagine how flat those playfields must be. My LE at 7.2* is an evil mistress. That is the sweet spot for sure.

#8721 1 year ago

Just finished Riddles in the Dark for the second time ever and went Into the Fire at 4x. One Warg away from starting Level 3, only 400K for the Mode. Man it stings when you know you just wasted a shot at a monster number. Keefer is the man.

3 weeks later
#8753 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

I think mine is at 6.5....if I go to your suggestion, what strength for flipper adjustment?

I'm only one or two points above stock. It doesn't take much. Go one point at a time and do like 3 games at least before making another adjustment.

1 week later
#8773 1 year ago

I always thought the map bonus was how close you were to Erebor?

1 week later
#8804 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinash:

I don't remember what I had mine set to, but the stock leg adjusters set to max weren't enough. I had to place ~.5" thick wooden blocks under the rear legs. It played great.

I also had to do that. Front leg levelers are all the way in. I could get there without the blocks but didn't feel there was enough thread left in the back legs when set that way. Added the blocks and now have plenty of thread all the way through the leg.

#8825 1 year ago
Quoted from Ky1ebasa:

I am buying a Hobbit manufactured on 12/20/2016. Does anyone know what factory fixes would be pre-installed at the date of manufacture, and which ones i'll still need to fix myself? Thanks!

My LE was built 04-22-2016 and it needed all the fixes. It is number 866 of 1500.

#8829 1 year ago
Quoted from Mydr650:

Looking to purchase a Hobbit but could someone tell me what I should be looking for in terms of things that break (ie make sure Smaug mouth opens, etc)? Thanks and hope be join the club soon!

Just make sure you do the Smaug mouth calibration if you get one. Back both end points off until you can not hear the servo buzzing. Then back it off another click or two to be safe.

I've had my Hobbit over a year now, 1000 games played or so. I have not had to fix anything.

1 month later
#8878 1 year ago
Quoted from KongDonkey:

Has anyone out there calibrated their Smaug mouth before? Long story short I replaced a bad servo motor in my Smaug (which wasn’t moving at all) and now it is working...the problem I am having now is when I go to calibrate it, it seems that the min/max limits don’t allow me to get it exactly where I need it. When in test mode the max limit will move the jaw but I’m not getting any movement when I adjust the min numbers. Has anyone ran into this before? I do have a manual and replaced the motor exactly like it was described. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just make sure the servo isn't binding at either end point. Take the glass off and listen to it as you set max and min. If there is any humming back it off until it stops. Then back it off another click or two just to be safe. His mouth doesn't have to move a ton for the effect to work. Push it too far and the servo binds and cooks everything.

1 week later
#8920 1 year ago
Quoted from Dreadreaper:

What games would you say are similar to Hobbit in terms of immersion/scope/adventure feel? I'm thinking WoZ and maybe Pirates? Probably not a lot out there like this.

Nothing. It's on a whole other level.

#8932 1 year ago
Quoted from GTO:

For those of you with Hobbits at home, how do they do with casual players? Kids?

My son is 6 and loves the game. My 10 year old nephew visited in July and probably put 100 games on it in three days.

For casuals, you need to guide them some. You can't just spray the ball everywhere in this game and make progress like a Bally Williams game. Having the flow chart printed out really helps when having new players try the game.

#8944 1 year ago
Quoted from Dreadreaper:

Unfortunately I do not believe you can change the strength of the Windlance via the coils menu.

Yes you can. I adjusted mine. You want it to go up the right orbit some and then feed back down to the upper flipper. It's adjusted via the kickback strength setting.

#8946 1 year ago
Quoted from Dreadreaper:

I tried that setting but it doesn't appear to actually do anything. It is also odd that it says "time in milliseconds" as the number that is being adjusted for that. Why doesn't it have a strength value like the other coils?

Wrong setting. That is the delay time from when the ball triggers the switch until the kickback fires. It allows the ball to settle so you get a more consistent kickback feed.

#8978 1 year ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

While doing some other work on my Hobbit, I noticed a sling plastic still had the clear film underneath. It was dirty, yellowed, and peeling. Once I took it off the art was significantly brighter and clearer.
It turned out almost all of the plastics on my machine still had the film!
Is this a known thing with Hobbit, or did someone just have an off day at the factory when they made mine?

Mine was also like that. First run LE #866. Found it when I installed Titan rings and clear plastic protectors. Looked 1000 times better after.

#8987 1 year ago
Quoted from GTO:

Picking one up next weekend. What should I set flipper power to in order to still make ramps consistently at that pitch?
TIA

I'm only 1 point above stock on the left. Right is still stock. Backhands from a trap only, not on the fly. Should just make it around from a trap.

1 week later
#9053 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Could someone please tell me what the width of the back Box is for this machine? Thanks

28"

#9058 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Hi guys seriously considering this game and had a general question about the code.
What is the general objective(s) of the game? I know there are 32 modes, but what is the incentive to complete them? What determines the order of the modes or the number of modes that need to be opened/completed? Are there inserts on the play field with wizard/mini wizard modes that completing modes lights?
Thanks

Spend some time with the stream below. The game is a masterpiece.

#9059 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Hi guys seriously considering this game and had a general question about the code.
What is the general objective(s) of the game? I know there are 32 modes, but what is the incentive to complete them? What determines the order of the modes or the number of modes that need to be opened/completed? Are there inserts on the play field with wizard/mini wizard modes that completing modes lights?
Thanks

Quicker answers:

Modes have difficulty ratings from 1 star to 5 stars. You need to have a mode finished as one of the qualifiers for the mini wizard modes (Into the Fire, Barrel Escape, Battle of the Five Armies)

1 Star = 0.25 value in the mini wizard
2 Star = 0.5 value
3 Star = 1x value
4 Star = 2x value
5 Star = 4x value

There are different qualifying objectives for different modes. ELF targets, MAN targets, DWARF targets, Bilbo ramp, Gandalf ramp, Radagast hole. When multiple modes are qualified you can shoot the left ramp to flip the book to different modes. The left ramp will be lit up with the word BOOK.

There are inserts for all three mini wizard modes at the lower section of the playfield.

Keep in mind that Modes are just 1/5th of the game really. You have to finish four other tasks to light a mini wizard mode. The game is crazy deep, it's like trying to solve a puzzle every time you play. Mine is bolted to the floor and never leaving.

#9066 1 year ago
Quoted from RhettDR:

Ok.... so the flipper fade / weakness is real bad on this machine. So, many multiballs, and such long ball-times, one would expect this issue...
I am assuming others have experienced it too.... Any pointers / cheats to make it better?
I always wondered if there was some type of graphite lubricant you could put inside the coil sleeve to "Help..." (Thinking back to my boyscout days...)
Maybe just replace the flipper coils and be done with it...? But still, likely will have fade during play. If it was just LESS BAD I would really be happy...
I have adjusted the flipper power. Prior to this, after "INTO THE FIRE" the flippers were so weak you could almost not play any longer.
So, I increased the power & it's much better. But as you get into Barrell Escape / and Battle of the Five Armies - the fade is terrible.

I've never had this problem. When you say long ball times, how long? A long game for me on Hobbit is maybe 30 minutes. I've had people over where the game has been played for hours non stop with no change.

How many games are on your machine? Perhaps it's time for a flipper rebuild.

#9076 1 year ago

Kev fixed his with a new LED board. I think there are three of them. He swapped them around until he figured out which one was bad. You can find him in the Buffalo Pinball Discord for more details.

#9101 1 year ago
Quoted from Goronic:

My son (16) and I were playing Hobbit last night to see which one could get to Battle of the Five Armies. Neither of us did last night, and rarely do. We though it would be cool if Hobbit had a coop mode that allowed the players to continue trying to get as far as they could. Seems like this is the perfect game for that...
Any chance JJP will implement Co-Op in Hobbit?

Simple, switch it to a 10 ball game and swap back and forth.

#9161 1 year ago

Smaug MB has several levels to it, each with it's own Super Jackpot. When you hear the game telling you to shoot the MAN targets, you know you are getting close. Then you will hear the game say, Load the Wind Lance. At that point, you need to shoot right ramp, wait for the ball to settle on the left side kickback, press the ring button to fire the ball, the ball will feed to the upper flipper, one of the 3 DWARF targets with a yellow target behind it will drop, make the shot from the upper flipper to hit that one special yellow target, enjoy the most amazing moment in pinball as the flippers go dead and Smaug kicks the bucket.

For TABA you need at least 10% completion in every mode in the game. Good luck with that... LOL

#9168 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I think most of my score came from the mini wizards. I played all of them, and Into the Fire a second time.
Also played Smaug MB like 7 times!
Game is definitely a lot of fun. Just need to learn the rules a bit here.
Anyone know if the Smaug edition came with rubber or silicone, and what was on the flippers?
Spoke to someone at JJP and they said everything was standard rubber on these from the factory, but their manual shows to replace with silicone.
Just curious to know what they were originally putting on these at the factory.
Cheers

What pitch is your game set at? I'm all for setting games up as you see fit but this game really shines around 7.2*.

As for rings, just install Titan and be done with it. They are fantastic.

#9171 1 year ago
Quoted from jorant:

Sweet Jesus. I will often not even survive to get to one mini wizard mode. My game is set up super hard, I guess.

Correctly, your game is set up correctly.

#9212 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

What are used for the post sleeves in this game? Are they just standard post rubbers, or thinner?

I switched from Titan Standard post sleeves to the Titan Stern Tapered post sleeves and have been happy with them. I have a full color matching kit uploaded to the Titan website with photos. Those photos can also be found in this thread.

#9220 1 year ago

Put it on 10 ball play and go. CoOp solved.

#9242 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Does this game use standard post sleeves, or the thinner Stern style?

I recommend the Slim Tapered Stern style from Titan. That's what I put in the kit I build for Titan after testing standards.

#9247 1 year ago

You also need the ELF, MAN, and, DWARF targets. Some modes require more than one qualifier. Take some time and watch the Buffalo Pinball vs JJP Hobbit head to head battle on YouTube, it will answer all your questions.

2 months later
#9468 1 year ago

Step 1: Make a Titan order and replace the junk stock rubber. https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1081

Step 2: Clean with Naphtha. NEVER use water on a pinball machine! NEVER!

#9475 1 year ago
Quoted from Trumpanche:

Perhaps the Titan “Low Bounce” flipper ring variant behaves like the Perfect Play rings?

Everyone I know that has tried the new Titan Low Bounce LOVE them. I'll be switching my games over very soon.

1 week later
#9518 1 year ago
Quoted from Furio:

I have an interesting issue that is popping up on occasion. It's rare enough that I can't simply call my shop guy out to take a look. During gameplay, usually after a decent game, often after the first Wizard mode, the lights across the entire game all come on and stay a single color. Similar to dying to Smaug's breath where they burn up red. However, the bug is that they don't reset and everything stays lit and none of the features or ques are active for any modes from that point forward. It makes continuing on that game near impossible once you have trained yourself to look for the ques. Once you do a hard (powered)reset, everything works fine again for what could be a several day span, 20-40 games before you see it happen again. That makes this hard to troubleshoot.
I am going to update code and see if there is something buggy there by chance.
My only other issue on this game is Smaug tests fine but doesn't want to turn and speak all the time. Mostly we think that's just a loose wire as whenever we fiddle with the connection he works fine for a bit then it stops again. What would be the best method for securing that wire? A bit of hot glue?
Thanks!

This sounds like an LED controller board failing. Others have had this issue in the past if you go back through this thread. More details there.

#9543 1 year ago
Quoted from cleanandlevel:

what's the difference between the LE and the Gold Smaug edition?
armor color, cab art, animation?
how's that black arrow SE look? is there a preferred version of the game?

Only cosmetic, no game play changes. Any version you can get your hands on will work.

#9553 1 year ago
Quoted from allhokie3:

Just joined the club for Christmas! Was curious if updating the code reset lifetime audits. Does anyone know? Also anyone who has a great playfield protector, does it cause air balls? My game seems to have a decent number of air balls right now off the beasts in the middle.

Mine came with a playfield protector and I hated it so much I ended up cutting it off. Best thing I ever did with this game. Game plays much faster and smoother with it gone.

#9560 1 year ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

This is really interesting. I recently picked up a low play HUO LE that has a playfield protector and even though I have the pitch at 7.0, it still feels floaty and the ball travel is just kinda weird. Plus, I feel like the glare off the protector makes the whole playfield look a little hazy. I don't put a ton of plays on my games so I really don't think I need a protector.
How much of a hassle is it to remove a protector? Do you literally just cut through it in sections and remove the pieces or do you have to disassemble stuff? Do you have to adjust the height of all the rollovers, pop ups and switches after you take it off?

Just cut it off. I made some posts on this about 18 months ago in this thread with photos. Your LOCK roll overs will also have a protector on top of them that needs removed. Your up post in the left outlane will need adjusted down a touch. You will be shocked how much nicer the playfield looks when that protector is removed.

#9566 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Sharing some "Awesome" from Eric ... pretty cool :
Flipper Code: (Left flipper for Letters, Right Flipper for Enter)
GAME
So: In attract mode: make sure you're on a clean slate by hitting the flippers together first.
Then: Left 7, R1, L1, R1, L13, R1, L5, R2
Report back to confirm you've seen the Awesome.

Epic!

2 weeks later
#9608 1 year ago

I'd guess your jaw servo is cooked from not having its end points properly calibrated. This can also sometimes toast the board that operates the servo. Did that board look burned during your rebuild?

1 week later
#9676 1 year ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

Not a member, forgive me, but I wanted to know owners impressions. I really want this pin but I just talked to a guy who had owned this and he said "I hated it, the ramps were too far back". I said, "were they hard to hit or just not satisfying". His response, "Not Satisfying".
So I don't know his favorite games but here are mine: Indian Jones PA, Simpsons PP, LotR. I like deeper games where there is some tactics to the shots. I don't really care that much about flow and speed.
So big question (and be honest) will I like this game....

Get the game. The ramps are more than fine. This game is a masterpiece that Pinside likes to shit on. Good news for us as it's amazing value.

2 weeks later
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#9734 1 year ago

Found the one way gate interesting enough to fire up Fusion 360. 15 minutes of work and a prototype is ready. Just need to get the prints from my local friend. He was able to print two sets in less than 15 minutes. 50 cents in music wire, a little double sided tape, and I should be ready for a quick test fit and play. I'm sure I'll need one more run to get he fit perfect but you have got to love the world of rapid prototyping. I'll open source this design once I'm happy with it for anyone with a 3D printer.

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1 week later
#9819 1 year ago

If the weather would ever get not crazy I could go grab these from my buddy and do a test fit. Once I have the size right, I'll publish the file so anyone can print their own. It's a 15 minute print and about 2 cents of PLA.

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1 week later
#9869 1 year ago

Finally got to meet up with my buddy and pick up the 3D prints. The fit and finish is solid so I've posted the print files to Thingiverse. You will need to print two of the gate holders and one center brace. Print time is less than 15 minutes and it uses less than 2 cents of PLA. I know some people have mentioned they do not own or have access to a 3D printer but keep in mind there are plenty of websites out there that will print and ship the parts to you for just a few bucks. Many public libraries here in the US now also offer 3D printer time for a small donation.

For the gate itself, I wanted to see how cheap I could go for this first test. As such, I used a large paper clip that I bent into the needed shape. I'm amazed how well it is working, just flawless so far in testing. Once the Pandemic is over, I'll make a run to Lowes and pick up some 0.06" music wire to test a beefier gate. If you go the paperclip route, your all up cost is under ten cents after double sided tape. If you get fancy with the music wire, you may be closer to a full dollar to finish the project.

Once you have the gate mostly bent, add the gate holders and then glue them to the center brace with a few drops of super glue. My gate is about half an inch down for a size reference when bending. The two alignment holes will keep everything nice and square as the glue dries over a few seconds. Add a small strip of double sided tape in the space between the two gate holders and install in the game. It's just that simple. I'm not convinced it adds a ton to the game or how I attack it yet but I'll continue to test with it and see if it grows on me. Enjoy!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4780354

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#9896 1 year ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Thanks for the info. Does one have to purchase 3 cooling fans for the Hobbit 3 flippers? Would it be possible to buy one fan to cool both lower flipper coils? Are there free spaces under the HEAVY playfield to mount them? I don't want to lift it now to find out. Do the fans run on 5v or 10v?
As a Side Note: Thank God for Pinside & pinball machines to deal with the Covid-19 isolation & depression. If pinsiders have'nt, donate now!

I'd only worry about the lower two flippers. The fans run on 12 volts taken from the bill accepter. The fans are about $4 each on Digikey. You would have to design a bracket to hold them.