(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,681 posts
  • 504 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by fnosm
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7075 4 months ago

Hi all from Oz, had my Black arrow from the original owner HUO for about a month now and have spent the time while resting my sore flipper hands scrolling through the 142 pages of this thread.

Now feel qualified to say hello at least and know i won't be asking questions already answered.

I've been doing things as they arise, i'm new to Pinball (second machine) so i am very lucky to know an operator with extensive experience next town over who has showed me how to do things like repair the beast wires etc.

Now need to try and find the leaf switch that operates the axe on the slingshot and stop it going off multiple times over and over, next learning curve for me.

I am incredibly impressed by the way this machine draws me in, must have had 15 games yesterday as i walked past to get a beer. I average around 400k on a good game and my best is just over a million, but i am starting to play with some purpose now and slowly figuring out where i am in the game and what to aim for.

Really just a very average to below average player, haven't played since childhood until getting my Deadpool NIB a few months ago and the cataracts don't help.

Anyway, just an introduction and a hello.

PS; There was a question about putting Pinstadiums on Hobbit a few pages back, the photos show them on Deadpool (which has a dark area between the flippers and the middle of the playfield) where i think it really improves the game. The Hobbit, on the other hand, is so very well lit and the light show has so much going for it and so much work and thought gone into it, i think it would be a real shame to disrupt the standard lights. (see second photo)
To each their own and i know lots would laugh at my pimped Deadpool and call it clown puke too.
I have a Rocker C which is pimped out a lot, but it sits next to my standard Duke 1098 and MkIV LeMans cycles.

I do have the coolasfuk sword handle shooter rod coming for Hobbit though and i am so disappointed that while i was on page 110 or so i missed out on the last gold buttons by a day or so.

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#7079 4 months ago

Quick question, after i light ,ITF, what do i have to shoot to start it?

Never have time to look around on this game.

#7081 4 months ago

Thank you. Gandalf was telling me to shoot that hole but i thought it was to finish the mode i was on.
So next ball the ITF is still lit, do i have to re qualify something or just shoot the hole and it auto starts?

#7084 4 months ago

Thanks guys. Slowly getting my averages up, have only broke a million once.

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#7094 4 months ago
Quoted from TrueJedi:

Just picked up a NIB #667 Hobbit LE that was brought up from the states. Made in late June 2016, so I'll need to do some code update this weekend. When looking for a NIB Hobbit it was rather hard to find stock. JJP's been sold out for some time as has Canada stock. Does anyone know if manufacturing has ceased and if the license has or will be running out soon?
Also, I was trying to determine production numbers and from leafing this this thread am wondering if this is correct:
Hobbit Standard = Unknown
Hobbit LE = 1500
Hobbit Smaug = Unknown (numbered, but random - is that correct?)
Hobbit Black Arrow = Unknown
My sons love dragons and really enjoy playing this at league, so this will be a signifiant addition to our household. Our 2nd JJP and certainly not the last.[quoted image]

No, Black Arrow is a run of 750.

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1 week later
#7162 3 months ago

New place i haven't seen for a stuck ball before. I thought there should have been a ball left during multi but the machine didn't do a search until i tried to start a new game an hour later....

Any one else seen this one? I'm assuming it's come off the ramp...

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2 weeks later
#7242 3 months ago

Wish i could find a recipe for Sweet baby Rays Kickin Bourbon Wing Sauce.

#7246 3 months ago

Thanks LTG but that is not the one. I like the Kickin Bourbon WWing Sauce, i don't think their plain BBQ sauce is even in the top 23 from SBR's.

1 month later
#7389 60 days ago

My Black Arrow also came with 5 black balls inside it from the previous owner. It looked like they were a sealed plastic bag direct from the factory.

#7404 58 days ago

Running 6, the black balls are ok to see. I can play in a dark room and i have cataracts.

I think the black balls may be wearing thin and looking a lighter black after about 3 months now of regular home use.

#7410 58 days ago

It's not a cut wire is it?

#7411 58 days ago

Maybe a slight loss of colour on the active balls, but not much.

They look great during multi's.

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1 week later
#7486 50 days ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

I brought up some of the issues with the seller and they insist the machine was completely reliable for the 8 months they were operating it, with only minor mechanical problems. I find that hard to believe, but to their credit they sold me a great looking machine for a good price, and it was 100% functional at the time of purchase. Since getting it back to my house things have been a different story but I can't blame them for that, I think I've just been incredibly unlucky in the couple weeks I've had the pin.
JJP has been responsive, but unfortunately they don't have an answer on this one and I suspect they're refraining from outright telling me "try a new BAG board" in case that ends up not resolving the issue. I'm hopeful a new BAG board will sort out my problems though. The machine's behavior is getting increasingly erratic and it's no longer really playable, which is a bummer. I know I'm probably coming across whiny + entitled, but this is is my first modern pin (and most expensive purchase I've made in my short life, besides cars + a house) and it's just been a very disappointing experience. It hasn't killed my enthusiasm for the hobby but I think I'll be sticking to Sterns in the future.

I bought a NIB Stern Deadpool pro and a HUO Hobbit Black Arrow for my first two. I've got my head under the bonnet of both machines about equally i spose. I wouldn't discourage another brand of machine just because of maintenance, they all need it more or less.

I know have a couple of Sterns, the one JJP, some gotlieb, Williams and Bally machines and my first EM is on it's way. Buy good machines, surround yourself with experienced people and use the resource here giving back when you are able.

You'll love your machines more and more as you get to know them more intimately.

I do know what you are feeling as my Genie seems to be a constant issue after another and i get sick of the sight of it sometimes.

#7487 50 days ago

. please delete double post

#7491 49 days ago

Skill shots are all weighted, you get more i believe if you don't select it but play the one you are dealt.
Rollovers for example, the more of them you hit (in the order of lit especially) the more points. Same with the inlanes, get the flashing one and get more.

I do understand what you are saying though, you can get the same for dwarf or rollover as man or inlanes.

1 week later
#7530 41 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Hobbit has to be the best value in Pinball right now. If I liked the theme, this game would never leave my possession. It rivals alien in presentation and sound. Simply incredible.
I'm going on an adventure!

I dunno, Deadpool is a terrific game and 3-4 k cheaper here (i have both).

I confess i didn't think Hobbit needed an external sub and connected one to Deadpool and Spiderman that were sitting next to it.

After playing the Hobbit i decided it really could use the sub. It is spectacular, but more like thunder rumble than the music that Deadpool etc gives.

I did want to turn the sub section of the sound down, i can do that by turning the channel down on the mixer but thought that there should be a section in the menu to turn it down.
Can anyone tell me which bit of the menu (if any) control the sub sounds? Thinking it maybe Fanfare?
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#7535 40 days ago

The sub has a volume knob and a cross over but i am running three machines through it. I want to turn the bass down on the Hobbit, leave it as is for Deadpool and turn it up for Spiderman. I'll just pull the cover off the mixer and use the internal volume controls, i thought it may be something i could do in the menu easier is all.

#7538 40 days ago

Pretty common thing with up to three subs according to all the threads i've read about it here. There are people who make the mixers that i used especially for pinball with 3 inputs.
The only one that sounds like garbage is the Hobbit as it's just a rumbly thunder sort of background that i think is related to the input volume.

http://tanglestech.com/Three-way-Audio-Mixer--for-use-with-the-TPP-1035-Pin2Sub-adapter_p_28.html

#7546 40 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

This Pinnovators gizmo can do that. I have 3 pins on each sub with it and there is no distortion, individual bass volume controlc

Yeah so can the Aussie one i linked to that i have, just means crawling under the machines to do it is all. I'll do that next maintenance day.

#7569 34 days ago

Hi all, hoping for some advice.
My spider mech has been sticking up and not dropping. I knw from reading this whoile thread that LGT advises finding where the mech is binding and bending a little.
The problem is i can't see anywhere it's binding. I can feel it binding at the top 10% of the stroke but can't see anything where it's touching around the mech at all.
The only places i can see where it could be binding is the two shafts, one for the coil that goes through a sleeve and one on the mecch that goes through a little plastic split collett.

I undid the mech from the coil and they both moved smoothly with no binding seperate but now i have screwed them back together the stiff ness is worse, stronger sticking qand on 20% of the stroke maybe.

Hoping someone can tell me where to look next?

Also is there a way to reroute the green/white wires? I've already fixed it once and it's a bit flattened again.

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#7570 34 days ago

Figured it out, it was the front plate connected to the coil section that the toy section is bolted to. The whole mech was binding when it was together but not apart so i just had to figure which way the plate had to bend then do some experimenting to get it right. Did loose one of the stainless spring clips up into the drop targets somewhere and will have to find one of those somewhere.

#7584 29 days ago
Quoted from Thot:

Issue is two plastics touch eatch other and block here : just remove the white beast light reflector in front of them et remove some plastic
[quoted image]

If you mean the binding it wasn't that. I had to unbolt the spider mech from the coil mech and bend the plate where they bolt together one way so the assembly was truer when bolted back together and ran straight. Hard to explain but easy to see when i finally figured it out.

3 weeks later
#7661 4 days ago

Does anyone know how to take the side rails off these machines? Trying to measure up for some custom rails with protectors but the small bolt at the front corner looks to be the only fixing but the rail still feels like it's either bolted or glued to the glass guide.
My Deadpool Stern the rails come off easy.

#7663 4 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I believe these side rails are adhered to the cabinet the same way WPC game are. You may need to use the heat gun and scraper method to break up the adhesive without damaging the cabinet or rail.

Sorry i don't know how those ones are stuck on either? Scraper where? Not on the decal?

#7665 3 days ago

Thanks very much mate. getting some made with protectors on them. Seems like it's the same pattern as the modern sterns but wanted to make sure with the rail off.

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