(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by pinballinreno
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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (5 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (5 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (5 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (5 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (5 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (5 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (5 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (5 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#10674 45 days ago

I'm contemplating buying this game... just wondering what the pros and cons are about it? Is there much strategy in the gameplay? Are the rules complicated? I heard that the scoring is a bit 'mathematical' if that makes much sense... there's an LE for sale with 210 plays which I'm seriously tempted by! Thanks for any input!

Does this game suffer from the playfield issues? I've heard bad things about some JJP games in this respect..

#10676 45 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

The soring is more complex than a computer game, 51 modes and noone knows how they all combine.
Good news is that you don't need to learn it to any real level to have a blast. The game does not revolve around scores like GnR, it revolves around an Adventure. And as everyone knows, an Adventure starts by taking one step outside your door.

Sounds cool, I've just taken the plunge! It's probably the quickest pinball purchase I've ever made... from having no intention of buying the game to commitment to buy in about 20mins

#10678 45 days ago

Here's pics of the game I just agreed to buy... I've no idea what's standard on the LE... can anyone tell me if there is much in the way of add-ons on this? Thanks!!

IMG-20210908-WA0020 (resized).jpgIMG-20210908-WA0022 (resized).jpgIMG-20210908-WA0023 (resized).jpgIMG-20210908-WA0027 (resized).jpgIMG-20210908-WA0028 (resized).jpgIMG-20210908-WA0029 (resized).jpgIMG-20210908-WA0032 (resized).jpg
#10679 45 days ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

That's awesome! Nothing wrong with that

To a fellow pin-head it probably seems perfectly normal

#10683 45 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

never seen those blades before. they are beautiful

So they're not standard then I take it...

Quoted from TOLLS:

Your first JJP pin, make room, you have opened the door.

Actually, they already started breeding, I already have PotC

#10685 45 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

I've never seen them, but mine is a BA. Haven't seen them in photos either.

I didn't see them on any of the flyers... seller lists the 'features' as:
Rad cals,
Green convolux,
sideblade art.
Any idea what the Rad Cals and Green convolux are? Seller is a dealer, I think he's just passing the info on...

#10696 44 days ago
Quoted from wolv3:

With as many games as you have in your collection I'm surprised it took you 20 min haha

I really do intend the thin the heard, to at the most half! it's got beyond ridiculous... promised myself I wouldn't buy any more, but found it hard to resist this one... deep down I knew I was lying to myself anyway

Quoted from wolv3:

Welcome to the club!

Thanks! Looking forwards to getting to grips with this game!

#10698 44 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Have you got a Multimorphic?

No... I'm curious about it, but something about it puts me off... not sure I'd like a playfield that's constantly doing stuff... would like to play one though to experience it.

#10701 44 days ago
Quoted from Metalzoic:

I want those Blades. Never seen them

I'll ask the seller if he knows where they came from...

#10703 44 days ago
Quoted from freddy:

You need to experience in home envierment

You're talking about Multimorphic now?

#10705 44 days ago
Quoted from wolv3:

At this point you may as well see how high the number can go

Crazy as it may sound, despite being in almost total gridlock with only very limited floor space to set any games up, I have a strange liking for the madness! Must resist!

#10719 38 days ago

Hobbit has arrived and looking good!!! but not sounding too great! A couple of things that seems a bit off:

1) There's a whistling/screeching sound, like a badly tuned radio, coming from the speakers... during gameplay it's not so noticeable due to the other sounds drowning it out, but during quieter moments it can still be heard.

2) When the drop targets re-set theres a kind of 'rasping' sound, which I think is also coming from the speakers... maybe just the one in the cab... this sound seems to be closer to the front of the game... it's quite loud and pretty unpleasant...

Are either of these things known issues with known solutions? If so, can someone enlighten me to what the solutions are?

Thanks a lot for any help!!

#10721 38 days ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Start with software and update the code if not the latest to rule that out.

Will check what code I have... thanks for the pointer!!

3 weeks later
#10813 17 days ago

My game (an LE) has a plastic sheet over the playfield, I guess it's what's called a 'playfield protector'... as apposed to the old fashioned mylar... the snag is it's giving the whole playfield artwork a kind of washed out look... are these factory fitted on the LE's? And are they easy to remove? I'd like to see the vibrant playfield colours... if I played 1000games a day, or had the game on site, I'd be concerned, but I imagine the clear on these things is sufficient to protect the playfield for a low play rate game...?

Thanks for any thoughts on this.

#10815 17 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Factory installed playfield protectors are pretty easy to remove.

Has anyone removed one? If so, did it improve the vibrance of the artwork to a degree that made it worthwhile?

#10818 17 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Those things suck, you will be happier without it.

I'm glad I'm not the only one thinking along those lines... It could be compared to having sex without a condom... more risky but you get a lot more pleasure out of it!

#10819 17 days ago

On a more technical note, the upper left head has stopped coming up... it started by it taking 2 attempts to raise, but now I can see it trying, but it fails... looking under the playfield I notice that the other 3 are totally free to move away from their down position, but the problem one is a bit sticky to get away from that fully down position... I guess this slight hang-up is what's stopping it raising... I would remove the whole assembly and look into what's causing the hang-up, but one of the screws is totally obscured by that massive bundle of wires shoe-horned between those upper s mechs... I can get a driver on it and take the screw out, but getting that screw back looks impossible! Even with a magnetic bit, pushing it past those cables will probably knock the screw off... does anyone know if it's possible to fix this issue by dismantling the mechanism while the body of it is still fixed to the playfield??

Thanks!!

#10821 17 days ago

I decided to take the bracket that clamps the 2 parts of the mechanism together off... when I simulate the plunger being pulled by the coil by pushing where my finger is the whole moving part twists, and then hangs up... if I stop the twisting by pushing down (towards the back of the playfield) on the rod under the head, it moves a lot easier... if there was a bush where I've highlighted with purple in the 2nd pic that would probably fix the issue... those 2nd brackets (without the bush) don't seem to do anything... shouldn't they have bushes on them to guide that main rod and stop the twisting I'm seeing?

Thanks!

20211006_232416 (resized).jpg20211006_232544 (resized).jpg

#10822 17 days ago

A bit more dismantling and it looks like the ball deflector behind the head is catching on the playfield wood as it gets pushed up by the plunger... if the whole mechanism was a couple of mm closer to the front of the playfield I think it would solve it... but it's odd that it worked OK and then starting getting caught...

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#10823 17 days ago

The twisting allowed by the clearance in that rear bracket is allowing this contact to be heavier...

#10825 16 days ago

I ended up putting a flipper coil sleeve through the two brackets that take the metal rod under the head which centralised the whole head mech... fits perfectly like it was made for the job... works fine now... bit puzzled why that's not installed from the factory... that 2nd bracket appears to do nothing without at least a bush inside it...
20211007_184430 (resized).jpg20211007_184435 (resized).jpg

10
#10827 16 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Originally had the blue bushing top and bottom. Bottom one was left out because it caused binding.

LTG : )

That's interesting... because on mine it seems like the blue bushing would have prevented binding... but because I didn't have a spare one, I just replaced both with the full sleeve... and now I have a spare blue bushing which I can use if another starts doing the same thing

I took the plunge and cut my playfield protector off... what a difference!! I cut the right half off with a neat line up the middle just so I could have a clear vision of what difference it makes, and I thought it would make a good pic so anyone thinking of doing the same can see the effect before they do it...

Literally just spent the last 1/2hr gazing at this amazing artwork that I no longer have to look at through frosted glass! It has to be the most amazing playfield I've ever seen!! What a work of art... scared to actually play the game now

20211007_224748 (resized).jpg20211007_224834 (resized).jpg

#10829 15 days ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

you might want to adjust the “LOCK” rollovers or might get a lot of airballs.

Ok, thanks for the tip!

#10831 15 days ago

Another technical question... at the back of the cabinet I noticed a connector not connected to anything... is this normal? See photo in red circle:

Thanks for any help!!
20211008_163521 (resized).jpg

#10833 15 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

That's an extra 110v power connector for when the game had a 110v monitor in it (like the early WOZ games did).

Ok, thanks. So in this game it's redundant...

I also notice in that photo that there is what looks like an audio jack plug (red) that doesn't appear to be pushed in fully... must check that when I get home! My game still makes a whining sound from the speakers, even with the game just sitting in attract mode... that could be why maybe...

#10835 15 days ago

One issue I'm trying to understand on my game is that the drop targets seem to be re-setting in a very harsh way... there's a lound rasping sound, even if only a couple of targets are being reset... this sound does not occurr when the roving target is happening, only on general resets... once the ball was rolling close to the lower left DT bank when it reset and it literally jumped off the playfield by about an inch!! Surely that can't be right... can it? I went to the coil settings to see if I could turn down the power, but the only adjustment to the DTs is 'reset time' and 'trip time'... any idea what these two adjustments do? This rasping noise is probably the most annoying part of the game .

Thanks for any advice!!

20211008_202142 (resized).jpg
#10838 15 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I really wish there was a way to have quieter.

I might experiment with some springs on the coil plungers, to try and take a bit of excess energy out of them!! If the ball jumps an inch off the playfield when they reset, I suspect there's more energy going to them than needed!!

Anyone know what the trip and reset times are associated with the drop targets?

#10839 15 days ago

Maybe the reset time is the time (in ms) that the power is sent to the reset coils, and the trip time is the time the power's sent to the coil that knocks the targets down... if so, shortening the reset time could help with the noise... not with the game now, so I can't fiddle with it.

#10840 14 days ago

On another note, I'm trying to get to grips with the rules, have been reading the rulesheet that's linked to this topic... there's a bit about getting to the level 4 mystery award which says this:

Level 4/Green – Precioussss: Ring save – carefully time your ring button strike to save
your ball (exiting the right outlane) [Note: Does not require Beorn Target Hit… does
Beorn do anything?]
o Awards a right outlane exit ball save feature where you must time your ring
button press to fall within a specified window.
o This feature is only enabled when you exit the right outlane and then nudge the
ball so it hits the Beorn target.

Can anyone add some info to this, like what's the specified window? And does the Beorn target really need hitting?

Also, is there a more recent rulesheet? The one I'm looking at has a lot of blanks/tbds/questions in it...

Thanks a lot!!

#10849 13 days ago
Quoted from Pinball-Ike:

When Golem is lit, and you hit the rollover

Thanks for your detailed reply! Just to be sure I understand this first line, to get Golem lit, you have to get to level 4 of the mystery awards by not collecting levels 1 to 3, and the level increases by going over a left and right inlane... is that correct? And by 'hit the rollover' you mean the outlane rollover, correct?

I'll certainly be reading that rule sheet! Thanks for the link!

#10855 10 days ago
Quoted from kciaccio:

How old is that playfield protector? I think new ones are made from a different material. They have them on the new sterns at a location I go to and they have zero wear after a year of location use.

I have no idea, I was told by the seller that it was installed from new and the game has just over 200plays, which can be seen on the display... to be honest, it looked like that protector saw well over 200 games, but I have zero experience with these protectors... is it possible to zero the games played indicator? Under the protector the playfield does look pretty new, a few small dents that could have been from air-balls that were able to deform the protector...?

#10860 10 days ago

Dumb question time, but how do you get the display out of this game?

20211013_203616 (resized).jpg
#10873 7 days ago

I'd like to quieten the drop targets down and I'm thinking of putting a resistor on one of the lugs of each coil... The resistance of an installed coil is about 10 ohms... I'm thinking it would be good to reduce the power by about 25 to 30%, which would mean using a resistor of about 4 ohms... I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electronics though, so I'm worried I might damage something by doing this... anyone know if I will??

Thanks!!

#10876 7 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

A resistor to a coil lug won't have any effect on mechanical noise.

My thinking was that by splitting the voltage supplied to the coil between the coil and a resistor placed in series with it then the volts to the coil would reduce which would weaken motive force to the plunger and therefore the sound as the plunger hits the end stop would be less... don't you think that would work?

#10890 6 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

I'll do my best to clarify a few things

Thanks for that brief but enlightening write-up!! It helps a lot!!

Quoted from Pinball-Ike:

hear the dwarf skill shot clicking away, especially if someone starts a game and steps away, you can easily change the skill shot and save some wear and tear,

By the way, if you let the dwarf skill shot scroll through enough times the targets stop and the skill shot reverts to making the shot onto the stand up targets (or the Balin hole), the required shot now being indicated by the now scrolling light inserts.

#10899 5 days ago
Quoted from Thot:

what you can do like me its install on eatch end of plunger of target a simple semi-ball soft used for kitchen doors :

I tried something similar using self adhesive felt pads, like they sell in furniture shops to stop chair legs scratching wooden floors... it took the edge of the cracking sound, but the volume was about the same... I like your rubber door silencers idea!! How much did the noise reduce? I was thinking of using some kind of expanded rubber also...

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