(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

3 years ago

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  • 8,088 posts
  • 527 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by TOLLS
  • Topic is favorited by 191 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2407 3 years ago

Jen will be back for good soon. She's coming back full speed after Thanksgiving but she's working hard in the interim as always. She can get emails now.

#2437 3 years ago

Turn down the coil power on your woz upper sling

1 week later
#2488 3 years ago

It's like TOM you have to take the clip and spring off to remove the flap from above, then the beast mech drops down from below.

#2528 3 years ago

The left side button has no upper flipper, unlike the right, hence the harness has an extra pair of wires on the left side.

#2546 3 years ago

1.94 is coming very soon as it is being tested all around. I would expect it to release shortly although I know of no exact date. Adds pindemption plus some other things and addresses the sound popping issue.

#2571 3 years ago

Not the same boards as WOZ it's a ground-up redesign. Other differences include the fact that Hobbit GI are white only where WOZ had RGB throughout and that Hobbit has several special LEDs to simulate traditional 89/906 flashers. The wires are rather tiny to say the least and there have been issues here and there with the boards that control the various groups of lights (mounted under the playfield) but as far as issues overall it has been night and day with WOZ. Hobbit lighting is exponentially more reliable.

1 week later
#2616 3 years ago

Pull out the high power interlock switch to restore the high power. Left side of door frame, top switch

#2629 3 years ago

It relies on gravity to drop but there is an up switch to tell it when it's up. I'd check to see if your up switch is staying closed even when it's down

#2658 3 years ago

It depends on when exactly, doesn't it? I mean it shouldn't always be on. It depends on whether or not that shot does something beyond just adding Rad to the dwarf party.

#2662 3 years ago

You can't they always go in sequence. ITF is always first.

#2667 3 years ago

Battle of Five armies BoFA
Yes 1.90 is a delta update

#2671 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Quick Question: Aren't the four PF spotlights 12V?


#2678 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I keep getting a ball stuck on top of the "E" pop up targets in "ELF" when it is down. When it pops up, it launches the ball real hard and loud into the glass. Anybody do a mod to stop that? I don't want it to break the glass.

You can twist up the height adjustment screw to raise E drop ever so slightly and the ball probably won't rest there as much.

#2695 3 years ago

Delta means you don't need unetbootin. It adds software on top of your existing software it does not rewrite the hard drive.

#2696 3 years ago

And yes it's free to download and instructions are on the support site.

#2708 3 years ago
Quoted from Bricarus:

Sorry if this has been covered, I did a search but didn't find anything.
When ordering this game from JJP, they give an option for a playfield covering. Do they apply it at the factory for you? Would anyone recommend or not recommend this upgrade? This would be home use only.

Yes, the factory will install it. Email jen@jerseyjackpinball.com. I don't personally like the playfield overlay but many folks do.

#2717 3 years ago

Officially, Jack said at Expo, the code would be complete with the release of 1.90 but there is for sure one more software release which adds, among other things, pindemption software as well as a bug fixer and such, and probably one more update after that yet to come.

#2732 3 years ago

Blue one is topper which hobbit doesn't have, 12v one is not used.

#2734 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Thanks, the blue two pin not used, is it powered? Seems to be running to the coin door somewhere. Might want to make my own topper and light it up. Guess I could also tap off the black-yellow connector. I'll take some measurements with my DMM.

The topper plug is powered. Joe from Laseriffic launched his topper at Expo 2016 (well that's where I saw it) and many folks like it. Up until the latest software release, the game did not support lighting a topper but now it does. The Laseriffic topper was delayed getting into production by Warner Bros., which had to approve the artwork. Not telling you to buy one as the reception I've seen has been mixed, but I really like it.

1 week later
1 week later
#2852 2 years ago

Look at your settings - there are two numbers that represent the range that his mouth can open. These two numbers should be no more than 20 numbers apart (e.g. 100 and 120). See if his mouth moves in test step by step number by number. If it does, set the jaws open number 5 or 6 less than what it is now. On early Hobbits the ideal numbers are written in black on the bottom of the motor assembly. These numbers are entered into the settings in the factory but if the software was updated they could have reset.

#2854 2 years ago

Servo connector is on the back edge not accessible from below - 3 pin connector back edge that runs the jaw motor

#2856 2 years ago

Officially you have to remove Smaug but look along the rear edge see if you can reach it.

#2884 2 years ago

AFAIK it's 1.94 that enables topper support.

#2896 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I found the 1.94P update. Is it worth installing it over the official 1.90? What kind of new features does it offer?

More choreography and such for BoFA also

#2902 2 years ago

Connector for mouth servo is on the back edge of Smaug not under the field. It can come loose or back off so I'd start there.

#2909 2 years ago

In the jaw settings keep the top and bottom numbers within 15-20 of each other. That's all the range you want him to have.

#2917 2 years ago

Close your eyes and pretend you're playing NASCAR?

#2929 2 years ago

Make sure the wireform tube is lined up directly over the hole.

#2932 2 years ago

One or two more updates to come AFAIK

#2939 2 years ago

The Black arrow and the LE are still being built and have been being built together since shortly after the Black Arrow was announced at Expo last year. So if you want a game built later on the production run, you can buy an LE if you'd rather have that model.

#2948 2 years ago

These were factory on WOZ and were planned for Hobbit, there were some sound issues on WOZ which the engineers felt were being contributed to at least in some part by the ground loop isolator, ground loop isolator was removed from the Bill of Materials on Hobbit, lobbying to add it back to the Hobbit BOM is moot as Hobbit is nearing the end of its production run and it won't be needed on DI owing to the essential elimination of the chassis box that WOZ and Hobbit use.

edit: this is a response to "the wool"

#2960 2 years ago
Quoted from PinFan4Life:

Can someone elaborate more on the ground loop isolator fix for the static and noise? It's starting to get annoying on my Black Arrow. Is this something you have to purchase or will JJ provide it? Thanks for the info.

Either way. You can buy one if you want as they are inexpensive. If you ask JJP they will ship you one for free.

#2964 2 years ago

Whenever the game wants to get the ball to the bumpers it will activate on an orbit shot; otherwise not.

5 months later
#3747 2 years ago

You mean like a traditional start of ball, ball save, like most games have? Yes, Hobbit has one of those in the game settings. Or are you asking about something else?

#3750 2 years ago

FULL MENU - SETTINGS - SYSTEM SETTINGS - then 7th adjustment down "ball save time"

(My bad it was in system settings menu not game settings)

2 weeks later
#3760 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Has anybody figured out what issue the upgraded left wireform is addressing?
On my game the right hand wireform is the one which causes unfair drains FAR more often. I've bent it up a bit but it's still happening occasionally. I'm a little tentative to really bend it a lot, in case the weld won't hold.
Anyway so what's the left one helping with?

It is to stop the ball from falling off the left side of the rails as it is coming down to the windlance and trapping above the left side of the game.

1 week later
#3771 2 years ago

The one ring is one shot right ramp. Revenge of Sauron is 5 shots left ramp loop over and over.

1 week later
#3800 2 years ago

Tests switch test matrixed switch tests then spin it and see if the game registers it. If not physically push down on the micro switch arm next to the spinner
Does that register? If so then your actuator (switch arm) needs a gentle Bend up carefully hold the arm down against the body when you bend it
If still not reading look at 2 pin connector underneath and look for broken soldered wires on the switch body

#3818 2 years ago

Make sure the playfield hasn't landed on the start button switch and pulled it back out of the button housing a bit - lean in and look left and see if the switch needs to be snapped back into place.

#3831 2 years ago

Make sure your ball guides are spread and angled properly so that the free ball rests cleanly all the way down against the fixed ball and has the maximum potential for being croqueted properly (or whatever the term may be) up the lane. I had one where the channel was too tight once.

3 weeks later
#3912 2 years ago

We shall see at Expo this week but I do know that all of the code guys including Keith have been pounding away on game 4 to be ready for the reveal lately...

#3925 2 years ago

I wouldn’t attempt to speak for Keith but seriously you don’t think it’s coming? Black Arrow just went back on the line. And Keith loves the lore.

#3936 2 years ago

Standard, LE, Smaug, Black Arrow.
LE are the most common, standards are the fewest. Black Arrows are still available new from JJP. Playfields are all the same.

2 weeks later
#3997 2 years ago

Every DI production model shipped thus far has done so with 1.13 installed. This is DI’s first production code update. Hobbit has had many since production began in early 2016, including 2.0 which is the most recent one. There will be another by all accounts as well so I’m not especially worried.

#4000 2 years ago

To each his own, but from listening to Keith, there is one more update coming for Hobbit. I have one also and I’m not worried.

#4009 2 years ago

In May - every non prototype DI was built with at least 1.10 but 1.13 came out right on top of that just as the games started shipping in force.

1 week later
#4032 2 years ago

Psst - start button is dedicated switches not matrixed

1 year later
3 weeks later
#6092 1 year ago

Not Frank personally. Point is valid though. Game number won’t help - serial numbers are the key.

#6118 1 year ago

That’s coming back in 3.10 I believe

#6133 1 year ago

Check the up switch on the goblin bracket, mounted right near the playfield wood. It has a roller actuator on it and they can break off from the beast going up and down. Without the actuator the switch will never close - thus the stuck open error.

4 weeks later
#6460 11 months ago

Add a ground loop isolator as used in car stereos between motherboard and sound board. Gets rid of the noise.

#6465 11 months ago

There are two different Smaugs - gold and red. Except for the color they are basically the same. The prototype Hobbits had GLIs if I recall but they were not in the production build. Lots of folks have added them though after the fact. Occasionally there has been a situation where installing one will not only remove pretty much all of the noise and static but also knock the speech levels down some. Fortunately, Hobbit has written into its code several different sound adjustments and you can alter the speech levels and the music and sound effects in the settings so that you can make everything sound good and solid if installing an isolator should knock down the speech level somewhat. More often than not the isolator does the job fine with no side effects. In addition, installing one makes no permanent changes to the game (there is no soldering or anything you can just plug it in between the motherboard and sound board), so if you want to remove or bypass it later, no harm done. Get one with a 3.5mm mic style female port and male plug, then unplug the cable going into the pink jack on the sound board, plug that into the female port on the isolator, then plug the male cable coming from the isolator into the pink jack. That’s basically it. I mean if you want to do so, of course.

#6466 11 months ago

That description you quoted may be a hold over from the WOZ manual (I am not entirely sure) because the initial WOZ runs included GLIs in production machines.

1 week later
#6508 11 months ago

Line fuse is on the inside right front next to the service outlet. But before that, check that the plug didn’t come loose in the back of the machine behind the metal plate. Can happen easily especially if someone was vacuuming or something and bumped the cord.

#6534 11 months ago

Black Arrows in general are going to be newer because they didn’t come along until after the main production run was coming to an end. LEs are all over the place in terms of when they were built - there were some built during the later run and alongside the BAs and there are a few NIB LEs out there amongst distributors. They could be from anywhere in the run especially if you are buying used so you have to see if, for example, they have the beast mech inserts installed either at the factory or added later by the first owner, whereas all the BAs will certainly have them along with the longer drop target springs and so on. As to personal preference, of course that’s up to you. I have a Smaug edition but I happen to like the Hammered darker brown finish on the LEs the best. The BAs have a smooth black finish on the armor which I don’t favor, but the BAs cabinet artwork is great. Rad cals are a matter of personal preference also.

#6539 11 months ago

Actually the boards being in the head and the swivel monitor mounted on the pivoting arm didn’t start until Dialed In (and continued with Pirates). Black Arrow Hobbits still have the earlier style monitor mounts.

#6565 11 months ago

I was at the same reveal. The BA Hobbits were announced and then Pat took over and talked about his new cabinet design for DI including everything moving up into the backbox and so on. Black Arrow Hobbits however continued on with the original style as Hobbit and WOZ had been using cabinet and monitor-wise.

1 week later
#6646 10 months ago

Locate the sound board in the board cage (middle right side with RCA cables coming off the back). Unplug the male cable going into the pink jack, plug that cable into the female port on the isolator, plug the male cable coming from the isolator into the pink jack. Secure the thing somewhere so the cables don’t get into the CPU fan.
Note: if you find that the isolator knocks down the speech levels a bit, adjust them up in the sound settings.

3 weeks later
#6720 10 months ago

Wire is on the wrong lug of the start button - just pull it off and move it to the other tab.

2 weeks later
2 weeks later
#6862 8 months ago

If the auto plunger launches the ball it’s because it sees a playfield switch and assumes that there is a ball in play and thus no more skill shot. See if you’ve got a stuck or intermittent switch using matrix test. Create some vibration with your fist tapping the field between the slingshots. Sometimes hobbit is susceptible to seeing the rotating drop targets cycling as you are switching skill shots with the action button and that will occasionally trigger a ball launch.

1 week later
#6935 8 months ago

Magnet gets very hot as a rule. You can flare out the front end of the diverter which will effectively slow the ball down just a bit as it heads for the magnet. Not too much though as you will create a ball trap.

#6958 8 months ago

On Hobbit the insertion of headphones does not cut off the game volume. In this way Hobbit and WOZ differ from DI and potc.

#6965 8 months ago

There are either none, one or two small washers inside the lock rollover buttons. These were used to help correct the height difference caused by installing a Playfield Protector. If you removed the protector, open up the button and remove one or both washers to bring the height down.

2 weeks later
#7026 7 months ago

Removing the protector is simple if you don’t want to save it - just cut it off in pieces. Takes moments that way. Lock rollovers possibly, yes.

1 week later
#7066 7 months ago

Usually inside the bottom of the cabinet, left side near the back left corner.

#7092 7 months ago

License still good
More production is possible not imminent

2 weeks later
#7164 6 months ago

There’s an insert that corrects this - if you need one send me a pm

1 week later
#7216 6 months ago

Goes under the ramp it’s a diffuser for the ramp LEDs

1 week later
#7253 6 months ago

Spring broken underneath the F target probably.

#7258 6 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

"Apparently" JJP found the supplied springs were sub par. They now offer a beefier spring. Buy a complete kit and swap all your springs.

Longer. The word you want is longer. Initial feedback on early production Hobbits showed that a slightly longer spring would perform better so a running change was made.

1 week later
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