(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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  • 8,088 posts
  • 527 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by TOLLS
  • Topic is favorited by 191 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4761 1 year ago

I'm in the club! Picked this lil' guy from a fellow Pinsider here - looking forward to really digging in! It was too easy on default settings, so I cranked it up to 7.5, opened the outlanes and pulled the center post - makes a HUGE difference!

Everything works great and looks fantastic! Smaug's jaw is a little crooked - is this common and is there a simple fix to the mechanism? Also - the VUK coils have to be really turned up high to be consistent - is this common as well?

-PC

hob1 (resized).jpg
#4772 1 year ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Congrats! I have a Hobbit sitting right next to a LOTR as well. They look nice together. They do play very similar, so be warned. However, I still get more of a rush from trying to defeat Smaug than I do trying to destroy the ring. Need to have victory laps or more of a pause after defeating Smaug. Seems like it just goes right back into gameplay. Need a moment to savor it.

I've noticed how similar they play, for sure. I'm not entirely sure how to even get to the battle with Smaug, but I assume I was close. On my fifth game I got to all of the Arkenstone modes, so I assume the battle with Smaug was next.

Playing deep into the Ark modes is a blast! Really feels like an epic battle.....

#4774 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

You battle Smaug during Smaug mb. You get to Smaug mb by hitting the four lock rollovers and then shooting the right ramp when the word lock is lit on the right ramp.

Oh - well holy hell, I thought there was a different epic battle with Smaug after starting all three Ark modes Yes, I've battled with Smaug quite a bit then. I obviously have not been following the evolution of the game.

What happens after you complete the five objectives when the three Ark modes have already been played?

3 weeks later
#4870 1 year ago

Wow - this is just fantastic news. I picked up the Hobbit just about two months ago, so I didn't have to experience the growing pains. Right now, I haven't grown weary of the current ruleset (I also have a 7.5 pitch, opened the outlanes an dropped the center post) - loving it the way it is.

This enhanced ruleset is going to be an amazing experience!

#4972 1 year ago

We've been playing this morning and love it!

I am getting a "HOBBIT DROPS" malfunction on startup - but I have no idea what that is. There are no HOBBIT drop targets, and no coils called hobbit drops, so I have no idea how to test or service.

Anyone else get this error?

6 months later
#6431 11 months ago

Is anyone having trouble with hits registering on the Orc (upper right pop-up - I think it's the Orc)?

My game only registers about 40% of the hits. It's perfectly adjusted (just a simple leaf switch) and tests 100% in switch test mode using a pinball.

If others are having trouble, I wonder if it is a software polling issue? If it's isolated to my pin, I can't imagine what else would cause it?

1 month later
#6643 10 months ago

I'm no expert, but those appear to be the shards of narsil

5 months later
#7291 5 months ago

Ever since I've owned this beauty of a pin, I wished there was some physical model to represent Hobbiton and I kept eyeing the empty space just above the Bag End feature lamp that leads to the pops. So this Friday I took a day off work and set my mind to finally making something that would look good there, but not obstruct anything on the playfield. It's a bit of tricky area with two layers of plastics to work around.

I came up with this first draft. I think it looks really good so far and fills that void that was bothering me. The green shades I used for the grassy areas need to be a closer match to the surrounding plastic artwork, but I'll save that for the next iteration.

The pictures below are before I applied a matte clearcoat to the finished model, so it's currently curing.

I'm also working on the overall shape to make it look a little less like a clock

Any other suggestions would be welcome!
Pinside2 (resized).jpgPinside3 (resized).jpgpinside1 (resized).jpg

#7294 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

If you're making these, how about a smaller lower profile design and add the hill it's built into? I think that would look fantastic. And then add the windows and a light. I would definitely buy that!

That's actually exactly how I originally envisioned it. Doing it that way will greatly reduce details in the Bag End entrance (it will just be too small to paint well) and become more of a terrain piece. It's definitely something I will experiment with. The squarish look of the model as it it now has got to change; gotta try to find that happy medium. As far as lighting - that will be tough. So maybe an internal light that shines out of the windows? I've also gotta figure out the JJP electrical system and figure out a good place to tap power. I assume it would be a 12v tap somewhere?

Quoted from Goronic:

Me too. And where did you get that nice mystery target decal?

I'm second owner of this pin - I always assumed that sticker was stock - ignorance is bliss

Here's a shot of the mod with a matte clearcoat showing the base plate.
Pinside6 (resized).jpg

#7296 5 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

That Hobbiton mod is great. Solves the problem of opto not catching the ball because of glare, too. I printed a Hobbiton decal and placed it in the empty space on mine.[quoted image]

I just pulled the glass to check - I had no idea there was an opto switch there . Nice decal! That would be great if this mod solves a potential problem. I don’t recall which modes require a Bag End shot, but now I’ll pay attention.

I’m going to work on getting more of an inset look to it as pictured without shrinking the entrance too much.

D67E195B-9AD3-439B-B3D9-C3F65814A271 (resized).jpeg
#7301 5 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

that's a pretty great idea! Are you working to sell these, or would you be ok with sharing the .STL?
I'd suggest a very small gentle slope on either side of the door which could be painted green. It will give it more of an impression of it being in a hill, and look less like a clock as you pointed out. Not exactly accurate to the film or book, but given the space to work with, i think it's a good compromise.
There's a lot of detail in the back of the playfield there that can get lost; this will definitely look perfect there, as a literal 'doorway'.

I've gotta see if the final version can be a potential viable product. If it takes two+ hours to post process and paint, it will probably cost too much (I just don't have that kind of time to dedicate). Hopefully I'll figure out a good process to make them at a reasonable end user price. The surrounding models look so good on Hobbit, I have to make sure whatever I make looks as if it came from the factory. Stern Pro pins are easier to make mods for since there are hardly any other models on the playfield to integrate with

I will for sure though get an .STL version out there for all to print free on Thingiverse! I did this for my last mod for GoT Pro (link below) and it worked out good. You can print a sweet version for free, or buy the more complex lighted version. I am going to try to stick with this same concept for Hobbit:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3601649

#7302 5 months ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Why not make it larger and turn it into a topper.

I'm going to need a bigger printer :O

jaws (resized).jpg
#7303 5 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

... but given the space to work with, i think it's a good compromise.
There's a lot of detail in the back of the playfield there that can get lost; this will definitely look perfect there, as a literal 'doorway'.

I'm with you on that! After measuring, I decided that the final model can be no taller than 65mm or it will start to obstruct the visuals in the pops. The pic below is an eye level view. I'm going to try to stay within that footprint. Probably have a little bit of play on the left and right to add inset hill details.

Baf End Eye Level (resized).jpg
#7306 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Maybe design it and sell it raw and let the new owners paint it and add lights. And get the Radagast cliffy fixed!

Man, do you a great eye Yeah, that Cliffy has been bent up a little bit since I owned it. It hasn't made the shot any harder, so I figured don't fix what's not broken!

#7337 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Oil the spinners.
Make it to erebor in 2 shots! lol.

Oiling the spinners was the best thing that ever happened to my Hobbit. I love nailing those spinners now and hauling a$$ to Erebor For some reason, I have a problem hitting those orbits

1 week later
#7362 5 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Managed to finish Riddles in the Dark this morning which allowed a 4x Into the Fire. Over 770,000 from that after falling just short of Level 4. Just got lucky that Riddles gave easier shots than normal stacked with a multiball. Finally cracked a Million! (I don't allow Beast and Smaug multiballs to stack.)[quoted image]

Nice! I've only finished RitD one time and, man, was I excited! What is this about a 4x Into the Fire?? Is the 4X specific to completing RitD? There is so much awesome depth in these rules, I'll probably never know them all.

#7365 5 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

1 star = 1/4 value Wizard
2 star = 1/2 value Wizard
3 star = Full value Wizard
4 star = 2x value Wizard
5 star = 4x value Wizard
I'm always trying to start a Wizard mode with at least a 3 star completed.

No $hit?! This changes everything. I guess it's time I stop beating "The One Ring", LOL!

#7368 5 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

1 star = 1/4 value Wizard
2 star = 1/2 value Wizard
3 star = Full value Wizard
4 star = 2x value Wizard
5 star = 4x value Wizard
I'm always trying to start a Wizard mode with at least a 3 star completed.

Sure enough - I just got to Into the Fire (qualified with "The One Ring"), made it to level three and only scored a total of 97,000 for it. Time to get serious

#7369 5 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Solves the problem of opto not catching the ball because of glare, too.[quoted image]

Coming along great on this mod - it's become a more complicated model than I thought it would.

Added some color-matched terrain details and some pretty dramatic lighting that casts some good shadow effects and even illuminates the green on the playfield. The lighting taps into any standard 2-pin Molex 12v under the playfield. I'm currently tapping the upper right GI spotlight, so the lighting intensity varies during gameplay.

I was hoping someone that is still experiencing the opto switch problem could PM me. I'd like to send you one of my non-lighted protoypes to see if it solves the problem. I can't reproduce that error on my pin.

Pics attached here don't look as good as the real thing - man, is it hard to photograph LED lighting.

BAG1 (resized).JPGBAG3 (resized).JPG
#7371 5 months ago
Quoted from pipes:

Question. If you complete two modes before Into the Fire, which one gets counted towards the scoring on the wizard mode?

I'm sure it is whichever is the hardest mode. I don't think Keith would penalize us for completing easier modes alongside the harder ones....

#7380 5 months ago

Thanks everyone for all for the comments and feedback on making this mod - it really helped in getting the details in order! I've really been working to make this something that I can produce for more than just my own machine and that the final piece has a professional finish worthy of this pin. You should see this pile of protoypes - oh wait, you CAN see

I'm going to order the materials I need to make ten of them for now as a trial run to see if it is sustainable. I would guess three weeks or so to get them finished. I'll charge $85 shipped domestically ($90 to Canada) - no international for this run. They will definitely never be cheaper than this if I make more beyond the first ten.

As Gandalf would say "A good mod is never cheap, nor is it too expensive, it is priced precisely where it needs to be".

PM me or let me know in this thread if you want in. I'll send a Paypal iinvoice when ready to ship! Those who have already expressed an interest, I'll make sure to reserve a spot (or two) if you want in.

protos (resized).jpg
#7385 5 months ago
Quoted from JonCrox:

Please ship internationally!!!

If this trial run is sustainable, I'll definitely ship overseas - will add to my store front here on Pinside!

1 week later
#7454 4 months ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Hi guys, new owner of Hobbit here, purchased from the original owner (an arcade) that had operated it since January. Machine was made in August 2018, and I'm running the newest software, 3.10.
I've been having an issue with LED's 'freezing' after the pin has been on for an extended period of time (a couple hours or so). This can happen during gameplay or attract mode, the lights will just quit changing colors and will stay on whatever color happened to be lit up at the time of the issue. The game continues to otherwise function fine, with sounds/animations/scoring all working, it's purely an LED issue (but does make the game essentially unplayable). Game returns to normal after being reset.
I've searched and seen some other people with the same issue but haven't seen a solution. Any ideas? I PM'ed LTG but he had no suggestions. As this is my first 'nice' game it's been a little disheartening how many issues have come up (I've had the glass out almost every day since I purchased it 10 days ago), but I can at least wrap my head around the other problems, I'm at a loss on this one.
Thanks for any help.

Hmmm - I haven't seen that behavior on my Hobbit, but I certainly have on my WOZ with the old 5v lighting system. I'll be curious about this solution, too, since I thought the new lighting system got rid of first generation WOZ-like problems.

#7458 4 months ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

...so I'm beginning to wonder if what I was told was bullshit.
Fairly confident this will be the last/only JJP I purchase, I really enjoy the game but am growing to resent it as a new issue seems to pop up every time I play. Do you guys have similar experiences or did I just get a lemon? I've had sound quality issues (resolved w/ ground loop isolator), stuck beast mechs (partially resolved by realigning mech), false switch registers (need to adjust switch still), stuck drop targets (still not sure on this one), and broken plastics (slings), all within the game being in my house for 10 days. Not what I expected for a machine at this price point.

JJP pins definitely require more upkeep than Stem games simply because there is way more mechanical/electrical "stuff" to deal with and Hobbit is perhaps the most complicated one. I've experienced the problems you listed above except for the false switch hits and the LED lockups. Switch problems usually just require a little tweaking and are common on all pins.

The first thing you have to do is go through the playfield assemblies that are causing the problems and figure out how they work by manually actuating each mechanism and observing what is happening. Since most of the assemblies are redundant, you'll have no problem observing a working mech. Once you figure out how it works, the problem should become obvious.

And I wouldn't give up Hobbit - it's an amazing pin that is really something special.

#7484 4 months ago

These.... are.... almost.... DONE!

I've PM'ed everyone on my list, I think. If you signed up and I missed you, please PM and let me know....

Ten Bag Ends (resized).JPGBag End Instructions 1.0 (resized).jpg
#7488 4 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

I do know what you are feeling as my Genie seems to be a constant issue after another and i get sick of the sight of it sometimes.

Lol - I hear you. This is exactly how I feel about my early order 5v light board WOZ. Sometimes I can’t handle even looking at it

#7506 4 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I got mine today and it's installed! Looks great! You should probably start a new mod thread for it because once people see one in person, they will be hounding you for one. Just add 2 small wire ties to your packaging for the wires under the playfield like other modders do. (I had some) Thanks again![quoted image][quoted image]

That's awesome, KBW! Great to see the mod in action on another pin!

My plan is to start a mod thread either tonight or tomorrow but I was waiting for some validation. I tapped connector #94 for power (Coil #041, YEL/BLK, "PLAYFIELD SPOTLIGHTS (LOWER)) but the label was written on the connector with a sharpie, so not sure that was consistent at the factory.

Is that how your connector was labeled, as #94? Was the installation clear with good instructions?

I have another series of these ready to go (yes, that was my labor day weekend) for sale on my Pinside storefront (international shipping, too) and will start a thread for them. Great advice on the wire ties. My original mod has only a 24" of power wire to the mod, the production version has 36" to allow enough play for users to test other 12v power sources if they want to experiment with lighting behavior. Guess that leaves a bit of extra cable dangling about .

Thanks for posting - was really waiting on some feedback!!

#7508 4 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

you said to route the wire down the front edge of the top clear plastic protector, but the pic showed it going over the back edge. I tried it a few different ways, and the front edge and under over toward the target seems to hide it the best.

Hmm, I included the picture of the wire going over the back edge as an example of how NOT to do it, LOL The pic say "NO!" - maybe I should just take that picture out :/

So glad you like it and thanks for the helpful advice - I'll start my new thread to stop plugging up our Owners Thread

Edit
New thread here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinworlds-the-hobbit-bag-end-mod-now-available

Marketplace Ad Here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1139-pinworlds/02856-bag-end-mod-for-the-hobbit-pinball-machine-

2 weeks later
#7610 3 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

My left vuk .... machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily. (Or I'm on some drug that I'm not aware of) lol. What I believe to be the actual issue is the upkick wire guide is angled/tilted introducing resistance. Maybe by adding a washer (or three) under the back wire guide mount it might help. Start by jacking the coil power up though.

This! I agree - game definitely bumps up power to get that ball out of the VUK on an as-needed basis. Drives me crazy, though, since sometime it takes five times to get it out of there and I have TIMERS going!! Really disrupts flow, too. Putting my eye right on that wireform, it's not obvious where the resistance is coming from. I have my coil power nearly at max. Hope someone comes out with a better fix for this.

1 week later
#7621 3 months ago
Quoted from psexton:

I made an Erebor cover for the spotlight in the upper left.
[quoted image]

Fantastic job on color matching!

3 weeks later
#7716 84 days ago
Quoted from Godzilla:

Boom! Love this game.... anyone done any better killing Smaug? Well chuffed[quoted image]

Nice!! I have NEVER killed Smaug and I've had the game well over a year. I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with me.

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