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(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

4 years ago

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  • 9,325 posts
  • 582 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by GTO
  • Topic is favorited by 224 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (4 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (4 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (4 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (4 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (4 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (4 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (4 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (4 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (4 years ago)

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#146 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I couldn't remember what the back box looked like on my Stern's either so I stuck my phone behind my METLE and snapped a pic.. The screened lettering is not on the backbox its on the back of the cabinet.

Yep, I think the backboxes are blank on Sterns. Not sure why JJP went the sticker can't be much cheaper if at all. Who cares either way? It's the back.

It's similar to bitching about a dirty fingerprint on the bottom of the cab. Who cares?

#148 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

It's because these NIB games are now $8k+ and attention to detail / quality assurance is expected when dropping that type of dough on a pinball machine of all things.
I recall the late Steve Jobs making a comment on how he wanted to focus on the back of the iPhone just as much as the front of it. He was on to something in terms of caring about the look and feel of an entire product. Even though it's the back of the game WOZ and those Hobbits with screen printed backs + the Jersey Jack signature stand out more and exemplify a high quality product.

Except JJP is still a start up...if you must cut somewhere that's where to do it.

1 week later
#192 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I just talked to Jack about all ramp, wire form, and pop-up issues. He said all problems were on early production games, and new games being built have been addressed. Wireforms are now positioned differently, and pop up mechs have been changed he said. Those are his words, so it sounds like they addressed the issues moving forward. Early build game owners can contact distributors for needed upgrades basically. I feel more confident to buy knowing that now.

Mine is on its way to me...will be here within the next week or so. I'll report any issues or if these are fixed.

1 week later
#212 4 years ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

So even Hobbit at 9K must make do with a lowly translite?
I am surprised.

It's glass...just not mirrored, right? I'll let you know tomorrow.


#214 4 years ago

Got her unboxed on Saturday. This thing is an absolute beast to move. Heaviest game I've moved, and I have WOZ and RS. When I first cracked the box and got a look at the RADCALs, I was pleasantly surprised. They look REALLY nice. They actually look better than the direct print WOZ cabinet! Super shiny/glossy. That's saying something.
The game itself is absolutely beautiful...from the powder to the pf art to the colors. Look at the pics. Upon boot I thought I had an issue with the little LCD, because the JJP logo is upside down when booting. It's the right orientation after booting. Weird. Both screens looks very nice. JP did an astounding job on the graphics. JJP needs to retain him (and Keith/Ted) at all costs.
Had a couple minor things to fix out of the box. My "D" drop target up coil and upper right flipper hold coil were not working. Traced it to a loose connector at back of box on the bottom of the cab. Fixed both issues. Had to adjust the inner right inlane switch and gap the Orc troll target. I need to work on the ball trough ejector setting as it takes a couple tries sometimes to serve the ball. All in all though, arrived without many issues. I immediately upgrade to 1.10 code.
My first game it felt very floaty...especially after having just played MMr. But that feeling disappeared after a couple games. This isn't a blazing Stern game like IM or ST or a brutal game like GB or TWD. This isn't a slow game by any means, but let's not pretend it's blazing. It's about WOZ speed. This is a players game. You have to be very precise with your shots. The orbits are really really smooth and feel great to hit. The spinners make a great sound. Same with the ramps, smooth. It shoots very nice. My pop-up mechs work very nice. Both the goblin and Orc each "trapped" a ball when dropping, but they popped right back up and freed the ball. No ball trap issues anywhere in fact. Once in a while the warg will self-hit and drop...just need to gap it a little more I think. The beasts are very satisfying to hit and come up often. It wasn't rare to get Smaug multiball and Beast frenzy at the same time. That's a frentic riot!
I don't really have a grasp yet on the rules other than how to start modes and the multiballs. The modes seem mostly framed in and vary nicely. Some very cool stuff there. I thought I heard David Thiel say once that there are unique stingers recorded for each mode's successful shots. I don't think that's there yet. Sound/music are amazing by the way...Thiel is a master at his craft. While playing you don't have much time to look at the main screen, but the little LCD is very nice. It tells you what shots the running mode requires and how much time is left, or it shows you what the next mode will be. It's pretty useful, similar to the TSPP TV, but way cooler.
The code has a ways to go, but what's there now is more than most games already. There needs to be more fanfare to progressing through modes and achieving things IMO. Hopefully that's coming...the mode stingers will help immensely. The game is already awesome and will only get better. Ball time is on the longer side...not quite LOTR long yet, but I see it getting there after I learn how to avoid all the punishing shots. All this pinside talk had me a little worried, but I have no doubt this will become an epic game. It's a keeper at this stage already. To those waiting to receive one: squash your fears, this game is worth the wait!














#215 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

It's glass...just not mirrored, right? I'll let you know tomorrow.

And yes, it's a real backGLASS.

#218 4 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Anyone having reset issues on the new 1.10 code? I've had it happen 2 or 3 times now and seems it might be during a specific mode(I've been too stupid to try and make note of when exactly, I'll make sure if it happens again I hopefully can take note of what mode). From what I remember one of the modes was active and if I recall correctly I hit the pops and the game just shuts off and restarts. I think one of the times I may have had Smaug multiball going. Never had that problem before the update, not sure at all if it is related but had played it a lot before the code update and never had it happen before.

No reset issues here. I'd measure your voltage going to the game.

#219 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Congrats on the new game Pimp77! Looks great. Do you know if JJP has implemented any potential hardware fixes with the latest games now being shipped?
I'm back in on The Hobbit (probably the 5th time, lol) as of today. Deposit sent for an LE. Will post pics / impressions when it arrives in a couple weeks.

Thanks. No idea if I have the fixes or not, but it got a good workout all weekend and I didn't see one ball trap on my game.

#230 4 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

Wait. What? How can a pin possibly be any fun to play when it lacks "interactive toys?!?!?"

You could argue that TH has more interactive toys than WOZ...

#235 4 years ago
Quoted from Eryeal:

Most likely trying to say drop targets are all interactive toys, since I remember people saying that for quite some time.

Well, even simpler: what is INTERACTIVE on WOZ? Flying monkey, castle doors, witch magnets? Is that it? Depends on your definition of interactive, but that's things that directly effect the ball. So 3 for WOZ. The hobbit has Orc popup, Warg popup, Spider popup, goblin popup. So without counting anything else that's more than WOZ. B

#236 4 years ago

...and welcome back Rob!

#237 4 years ago

Forgot to mention, the shooter spring is weak. Too weak. A full plunge barely gets the A drop target. I'm going to go one spring strength up or stretch the current one out some.

#248 4 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Yes, i have had two since April 15th. One w/ the 1.01 code and one w/ the 1.10 code. So i don't think its a code issue. Also, it reset exactly when it hit the pop bumpers, both times matter a fact. I put a ticket in yesterday so i will keep everyone updated on what they tell me. Other than that, this game is awesome, beautiful, fun and i love it. I'm not bashing any other companies, not Stern, Spooky or PP but, if you are going to spend this kind of money on a pinball, with JJP you get what you pay for.

I had a reset last night. I know 100% that I was in the mode called "The Bait" when it happened. Not sure what else was running. Like you I hit a pop bumper and it reset on me. Hopefully Keith and team can track down these crashes.

#259 4 years ago
Quoted from goldant:

Pimp77, I noticed you have the playfield protector as well. How does the ball feel for you as it rolls over the L-O-C-K rollover targets? When I'm playing if the ball isn't moving fast enough it can wildly change direction when hitting these. I wonder if it is the extra height from the playfield protector causing this? The kickback also seems like it may be hitting the ball off center, possibly because of the playfield protector. Anyone know if the kickback / rollovers height can be increased?

I would say the pf protector actually diminishes ball trajectory changes as it sits more even. I haven't noticed it too much at all. I don't have a protector on my WOZ and it's worse on it. No issues with my kickback either.

#262 4 years ago

Awesome things about the game:
1) Erebor Super Spinner. How long do you build it up before you cash in? Decisions, desicions...don't lose the cash out, it's big!!
2) Mode variety. Every mode is different and they are all pretty awesome. The One Ring is the only so so one as just a one shot hurry, but still...great stuff there! Riddles in the Dark is one of my favorites. There's so many...I don't think I've even seen them all yet.
3) 2x pf is I think the 3rd captive ball award...time that with some sweet multiballs and modes and it can be lucrative. Don't drain after activating it!
4) The Skill Shots. All are fun and a pretty great challenge. DWARF is easiest.
5) Extra Ball requires two difficult shots when lit, but it's satisfying when you get it. Great clip and sound.

I could go on and on...enough for now. A new high score:


#281 4 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

In the prior version you had to make a certain number of switch hits to qualify the ring. Each time you use the ring it takes more switch hits to qualify it again so there is some strategy on how often to use it.
Haven't noticed yet if the new code uses only target hits to qualify the ring.

Nope, still all switches.

#283 4 years ago

I had another reset last night. and it was on a game where I had over 600k on ball two. It happened during beast frenzy. It's not a total reboot, it just goes dark then returns to attract more, so I'm guessing a software/code crash of some sort. I hope they're hunting it down as it's the only real bummer. I had one ball get stuck at the bottom of the left habitrail that goes to the outlane last night too, but a bop to the side of the cabinet freed it.
Still, fantastic game already. The mode variety that's there can't be stressed enough. Many creative modes and uses of the drops and beasts. Interesting rules. I think some balancing of points does need to be made for the modes. Some easy ones score lots of points and some difficult ones get you little. No doubt it's coming soon along with the Arkenstone modes.

#294 4 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Check to see if u have 4 meg of ram or 8 meg in regards to your reset issue.

Quoted from LTG:

They should have two memory sticks of 4 GB each for a total of 8 GB.
Easy to check. Full Menu - Utilities - scroll down to Hardware Info, that will let you know if 4 GB is in two spots.
LTG : )

Thanks, I'll check tonight!

#302 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

They should have two memory sticks of 4 GB each for a total of 8 GB.
Easy to check. Full Menu - Utilities - scroll down to Hardware Info, that will let you know if 4 GB is in two spots.
LTG : )

I assume this looks right?

If so, what else could be causing the resets?


#321 4 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Yes I had this very same problem when I first unboxed. You're going to have to lift the pf and bend a piece of metal back a tiny bit. I'm traveling now or I would send you the email correspondence I had with Llyod. It was an issue on WOZ as well, so there is an easy and known fix. Send Lloyd a pm and he can send you the fix, he's well aware of this.

Exactly what I did...bend the metal tab up towards the backglass. Works perfect now.

I swapped positions of the memory sticks and didn't get a reset last night. Will keep monitoring, but fingers crossed.

#350 4 years ago
Quoted from Bartzenegger:

I did have my first reset as well with new code. Also my upper continually goes up and down when I hit the right flipper button. Started right after the reset. Haven't messed with it yet.

Check the plugs into the back of the metal box in the bottom of your cab. Your "hold" coil isn't working and I'll bet that plug is loose. I had the same problem. Push all those plugs in and make sure they're snug.

#351 4 years ago

For what it's worth...I haven't had any resets since swapping the memory card positions. Not to say I won't have them again, but so far so good.

I found some slight sound clipping with the default settings as well. I turned down each of the sound settings by five and all is good.

#372 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Did you try swapping the ram front to back on the computer?

I did this and mine hasn't had a reset since...we'll see for the long term, but so far so good.

#373 4 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

If there is only 2 ram slots, I can't switch ram around.

Why not? Swap the cards in the two slots.

#407 4 years ago

So I've been having some odd air balls when shooting the left much that the ball would bounce entirely OVER the ramp at times. I thought it was the ramp flap, so I spent some time adjusting that. Still happened. Thought it was catching the "O" lock button somehow and launching so I adjusted that so it sits lower and requires less pressure to depress. Still had air balls. So I looked closely at the entire ball path and noticed something odd...the flipper rubbers seemed to be sitting low on the flipper. I took a close look and they were seated fine, but they still didn't look right. I grabbed some new flipper rubber and compared. The stock flipper rubber is about an 1/8" SHORTER than a normal one. I have the pf protector installed as well, so couple that little bit of extra height with the 1/8" shorter flipper rubber you get air balls. I ripped that crap off all 3 flippers and replaced with regular ones. The whole game feels better now and no more air balls!!

I recommend every single Hobbit owner to do the same...replace the flipper rubbers!

#408 4 years ago

Oh, and since swapping the memory card positions last week I still have yet to see another reset.

#415 4 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I noticed that too so I replaced the rubber on mine. Right now I'm running PBL Super-Bands.

Are those the longer style flippers?? Not sure you need those if so.

Quoted from dtowndobe:

Awesome feedback!
Can we convince you to generate a Titan oring/rubber list?!

Not planning on changing any of the other rubber yet. The white is fine.

#426 4 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

So, I went to HQ Beercade in Chicago tonight, specifically to play The Hobbit. Here are my thoughts and experience. First off the game is very beautiful. Nice graphics, nice trim, pretty play field, nice LCD screen. So thats nice. I put 5 bucks in, it's $1 per game. First game went well, i fact I got a replay! fun. I started to realize just like WoZ the giant screen in a big distraction. I don't have enough time to absorb what it's trying to tell me cause I am focused on the game. Then a ball gets stuck, ugh, off the left ramp where it should drop into the exit lane "arrows". Annoying. The operator comes and unsticks the ball and give me 3 credits. Nice. I start to realize the dragon is really weird. It's a head on a round spinny thing.....its weird. The ball is all over the place, too many roll overs and troll popups, the ball is a mess. Then wham! stuck ball in the same place again.....!@#$%^&$ how did this not get found during the prototype. Same story, operator comes and opens the machine and give me 3 more credits. turning into a free night of pinball. Then wham, stuck ball again, this time on top of the right spinner....Ugh. Unstuck again....then wham, wham, wham, over and over again, stuck on the left ramp before it should fall into arrows. Bleh, I'm over this one....Went and played Medieval Madness, Tron, Kiss, Metallica, Twilight Zone, Addams Family.....those were fun. Not sure i'll bother with The Hobbit again. Sorry to all of you who got one, ordered one or want one.....Not sure it's gonna be a good one at all. It was yawn when the ball wasn't stuck, and annoying when the ball continuously got stuck. I hope Stern does not do a giant LCD screen, too much going on.

Sorry your experience sucked. Mine is @&$@&$ing awesome!

#445 4 years ago
Quoted from bdaily1983:

Anybody else getting huge airballs from the rollovers? If I hit a rollover dead on, it will jump from the rollover to the bottom of the ramp. It will lose momentum and not make it up the ramp. I tried for a little bit to adjust the switches. Maybe I need to mess with it a little more?

Change the flipper rubbers! It's not the rollovers.

#447 4 years ago
Quoted from bdaily1983:

Really? What kind are you using?

The normal height kind. The stock ones are 1/8" shorter and tend to cause air balls.

#449 4 years ago
Quoted from bdaily1983:

Didn't know that. I'll give it a shot as well. Thanks

Most likely your issue. I had a similar problem and that fixed it. Made the whole game play better.

#469 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Hopefully expecting my Hobbit in June. Getting ready to make a Pinball Life order. Early on there was some discussion about changing out the shooter spring strength. Is this still something to consider? If so, which color to purchase? Also, are there other recommended things which I might want to add onto this purchase? Anyone tried the PerfectPlay flippers on this pin yet? I already have extra balls and not really sure if JJP pinballs need to be switched out like Sterns are but at least I'm covered on that front if needed.

I abandoned getting a new spring. While I have to struggle to get the R and F targets, they're need to go any stronger.

#485 4 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I need detailed instructions on how to qualify Man, Elf and Dwarf modes. Mine at the top screen seem to always stay highlighted and never shaded.

What do you mean? At the start of the game they all should be dim. Knock down a full bank of drops to spell either MAN, ELF, or DWARF. Each individual drop lights up a letter. They go dim when you start a mode that requires that qualifier.

Pretty simple.

#499 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

A few items I need to adjust out of the box.
1. Plunger spring is too weak to reach the "dwarf" drop targets. Going to replace.
2. Rollovers seem too be up to high and may be causing some of the airballs. Will lower.
3. Setting the game to a 7 degree pitch resulted in the ball falling off of the far left habit rail often. I set it back to the recommended 6.5 degree setting.
Items that need to be corrected through code.
1. Shaker motor is making a bit of a squeaking sound. Others have reported this since updating to version 1.10.
Stuck balls at far left habit rail and pop ups?
I haven't seen a ball get stuck at the far left habit rail. I did have one ball get stuck in a pop up as it was coming down but a few seconds later it came out.
Update tips
1. I originally downloaded the 1.10 update file, unzipped it to my hard drive and copied it over to the my thumb drive. When attempting to update the game I got a "no update folder found" error. Turns out if you unzip the file directly to your USB thumb drive (root, nothing else on it) it will have a different folder name "hobbit_update" versus "TheHobbit_Delta_v1.10" if you unzip it to a local drive (I'm running Windows 10 btw). I'm not sure why the folder name changes based on if it's extracted to a USB thumb drive or to a local HD drive but in order for me to get the update to work I had to unzip the file from my local hard drive to the USB thumb drive.

Put shaker on "extreme" for now. It fixed it for me and no crazy extreme shaking. It's still pretty minimal.

#540 4 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

I know that it is common for people in this hobby to use Novus 1 for regular cleaning of their playfield, but I really don't understand why. I mean I don't think it will hurt your pf or anything, but why use a product that was made for plastic on a PF?
For regular cleaning of your PF and an easy way to reinforce your wax by providing a small amount of extra protection (instead of using a cleaner that could actually remove your wax) I have long recommended (and use) Optimum's Opti-Clean. I use it every time I take the glass off. Note that this is not for heavy duty cleaning of a very dirty PF. It's for maintenance type of cleaning. link »

Again, another product that tons of Pinsiders love to use is the Blitz One Grand. I don't like it for the very reasons that you state: it leaves white dust and it also easily accumulates in areas such as star posts. I recently purchased a pin from a good friend who uses Blitz. I had to use a toothbrush to remove some of the white buildup in the star posts.
While I agree completely that P21S is a great wax and won't leave white residue or buildup behind, I don't think you really need to spend that kind of money on a high end wax to get the results we want on a pin.
Collinite's 845 Insulator wax can be purchased for half the price of the P21S, will probably provide even better protection, and will not leave white dust or buildup in the star posts if used correctly (i.e, do not apply much at all). 845 wipes away completely clean. It also provides one of the slickest surfaces of any of the waxes, so it can make the PF very fast. This can actually be considered a drawback. The difference in ball speed is significant. link »

Novus 1 is ok for a pf with a pf protector, but to clean a pf just use simple green (not the harsh one). Follow with a wax if necessary.

#550 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Hooked it up to my Polk external sub and the sound is awesome vs without.
Loving the game, 114 total plays on it now. I just had my second reset on it today though, that's 2 out of 114 and in my opinion, two too many. Ive reseated everything and it seems it's software related.
Anyone else having reset issues? If so, let's post the error messages here- here's mine from today
Also, I had emailed JJP technical
Support about the issue last week, about 4 days ago, and no response. My history with WOZ support has been that email and opening tickets is worthless, but phone support is good so I'll try that avenue next.

Swap memory board positions and give that a go. If that doesn't work get new memory. Swapping those boards has apparently fixed my resets (so far).

#554 4 years ago

Since I've solved my resets and air balls I solved another annoyance this weekend. My left habitrail that goes to the outlane wasn't 100% consistent on catching and holding the ball. I added a 1/4" tall spacer under the bottom screw and it made it 100% reliable (so far) with a pretty good amount of plays on it today. No traps, no bounce outs. Perfect.

Now I have just one more minor annoyance to figure out and it will be perfect. One in maybe 100 right habitrail returns will drop the ball and spin it up and out the right outlane. It is FRUSTRATING when it happens and screws us enough to need to find a way to fix it. Anybody else experience this one?



#571 4 years ago
Quoted from Hjbondar:

Thanks KPG. I am looking for what someone was actually charged as I was quoted $500 by JJP - and it seemed high - Harvey

From JJP to CA...about $500-$550.

#586 4 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

My game catches the ball every single time it goes there for a lock.
Has anyone with this behavior recorded it in a video? I am curious to see this happen and what else is going on at the time.

Mine is hit or miss. I think the ball just goes too fast sometimes. It's doesn't effect anything.

#590 4 years ago
Quoted from Gizmata:

Where do I find the back box key? It's not on the coin mechs like I would expect?

It is...look again.

#596 4 years ago

I was getting some audio clipping, most notably on the Smaug lock grumbles and sighs. Played with the cabling and it made no difference. Remembered the sound clipping issue on WOZ and lowered all the audio settings. It fixed it! No more clipping. Then I decided to up the sfx and fanfare and tweak the voices and music a bit. I got it sounding much better than out of the box (IMO).

#601 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Nice, I think I've noticed some minor audio clipping as well at times. Can you please share your games audio settings?

I'll take a pic when I get home tonight.

#606 4 years ago

My audio settings...


#608 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thank you! I'll try those out.

Let me know how it goes...I may tweak it more by lowering the speech and upping the music.

#618 4 years ago
Quoted from GameJunkie:

Got my Hobbit 3 days ago and i'm loving it! A few questions to you owners.
1. The legs are quite a bit shorter than WOZ more like the height of a Stern. Anyone know why JJP went with shorter legs and therefore a lower table height?
2. Are some of story book modes not completable yet? I feel like I have hit all the targets they ask for and still have time in the mode, but it ends and I don't get a complete bonus. In fact I don't think I have completed any modes yet.
3. Sometimes, especially when I lock a ball, the audio pops and crackles. Is this just a product of early code or do you think i have a connection issue. I did make sure all of the audio connections under the play field were tight. I have not looked in the back box yet. My sub woofer sounded like it was blown, but I did fix that by securing the connection.
4. Just an observation, but I think it's strange that they chose to face the Dwarf or Hobbit in the barrel looking to the back of the machine. I feel like we should be able to see his face.
5. Anyone see any cool mods for the play field yet. I feel like the mod community is a little slow with mods for Hobbit. There are already tons of Ghost Busters and I feel like WOZ had quite a few at this point.
Hope everyone is enjoying their Hobbit or gets it soon if they are waiting.

1) My legs are identical to WOZ (sits right next to my WOZ).
2) You can "complete" modes, but none of the completion bonuses are in yet. All the modes aren't done yet either.
3) Check my post above about audio clipping. Basically, lower all your audio settings in the menu.
4) Agree. I don't even notice the dwarf in the barrel.
5) Haven't seen anything compelling yet.

#628 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That is indeed a mystery:
Did you get some Data East legs?!?!?!?
Pinball legs have changed sizes a lot over the years.
Not only the length can be different. There are also differences in types and colors. Flat or ribbed (whole length or partly). Chrome, black or painted grey.
•27 inch = 68.5cm
•28.5 inch = 72cm
•30.5 inch = 77.5 cm
•31 inch = 78.8cm
Data East / Sega / Stern : Data East started with chrome 28.5 inch but switched soon to black of the same length. Later black 30.5 inch.
Williams Pinball 2000 (1999 - 2000): black ribbed, 28.5 inch.
Williams / Bally system11 and WPC (1987 - 1998) : chrome ribbed, 28.5 inch.
Exception are the first generation Bally games (1988-1990) which had grey and sometimes black (like Black Rose).
Road Show had blue, and gold legs were installed on Indiana Jones, World Cup Soccer, Judge Dredd and Addams Family Gold.
Corvette and ST:TNG had black, and some CFTBL too.
Twilight Zone used regular chrome. But because the game is so heavy, during development Williams had tested with legs with 3 leg bolts. Games weren't shipped with them, but the cabinet does have 3 holes. Take care when setting it up on legs that you use the correct two, or the playfield will be much steeper than it needs to be.
Williams 1966 - 1987: flat chrome, 27 inch, later ribbed until half.
Bally 1984 - 1987 : ribbed chrome, 28.5 inch.
Bally 1968 - 1983 : flat dark grey, 28.5 inch.
Gottlieb DMD (1990 - 1995): started with 27 inch chrome, later 31 inch chrome.
Gottlieb system 1 / sys80 : standard 27 inch, flat chrome.
Exception is Haunted House, 27 inch in front and 31 inch in the back.
Gottlieb electromechanical 1 player (50ies to mid 70) : 31 inch flat chrome.
Stern 1977-1985 : 28.5 inch, flat chrome.
Zaccaria : 28.5 inch, flat chrome.
JJP : 28.5 inch, powder coated in colors, or flat chrome (same as late model Williams or Stern legs)
(reposted from
PM or ask Lloyd WTF?

If his WOZ legs are 30.5", then there's the extra 2". Weird if true.

I would love longer legs on my games as I'm tall.

#632 4 years ago
Quoted from GameJunkie:

This is so strange. My WOZ is the same height as my Twilight Zone. I have a standard edition WOZ with the legs that came in the box. It was one of the first off the line. Wonder if they changed the length early on.

Mine is the same as all my Stern/JJP/Williams/Bally games. My DE is the oddball in regards to leg length.

#659 4 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

I've been loving hobbit so far. One thing I wish it was easier to tell when the lockdown bar button lit for what purpose. Postponing something is much different than cashing in a score and the back glass isn't always so easy to look at in frenzy of play. I think it'd be great if the lockdown bar button was a different color for cashing in points vs postponing a mode/lock.
Got some TrueColor protectors added today

Agree. The color of the button should be different for each "award"/action.

#682 4 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Interesting point... I have been assuming that Keith would be doing the code which would have made it a near certainty for me unless the theme was horrible. If Keith is not doing the code I am not so sure.

I'm pretty sure Ted is "lead" on Pat's game and Keith is "lead" on Hobbit with each helping the other out along with some other junior coders.

#693 4 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Yep, that is the common ball trap. JJP is working on a solution. Main do-it-yourself fixes are as follows:
1) Bend end loop up to help direct ball downwards and through the loop. (improvement but not 100% fix)
2) Put a spacer under the mounting bracket at the end of the rail to lift the rail up and slow the ball down. (better results than #1)
3) File last two cross bars on rail so ball doesn't hit them on its way down the rail. (100% fix but irreversible)

2 was a 100% fix for me.

#694 4 years ago
Quoted from bdaley6509:

I ordered mine 3 weeks ago. Got it yesterday More pics. Little nervous about a loud grinding/buzzing sound at the start of a ball. Is that just the drop targets resetting? Also sad to say my first left ramp shot ended up here (see pic).

Grinding/buzzing sound is normal. Just the drops resetting slightly in sequence.

#715 4 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Success! I placed a single strip of 1/2 CTO filter over the LEDs: link »
I didn't unscrew the LED strip, I just used a few pieces of VHB double sided tape above and to the sides of the LED strip:

Before Pic:

After Pic:

So much better!

I'm going to have to do that one of these days. Looks way better.

#727 4 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

After I adjusted the amp, the stock one does this also. The whole floor vibrates in my feet when Smaug talks on ball locks.

Agree. The stock amp and cab speaker is surprisingly effective.

#751 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

When I play on mine at home, the first thing I've noticed is how hard it is to get extra balls. I have about 10 games over 1.2 million and have only earned an extra ball on one game. Am I missing something? I have my extra ball settings on 4, which I believe is default. Other than that, only 3 ball games.

Extra balls aren't handed out, that's for sure. You have to concentrate on the things that light extra balls (getting all mode qualifiers lit, kicking over barrels).

#758 4 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

My understanding is that they don't carry over, and I don't think order matters on the qualifiers - but I am not sure about that.

Yes, they do carry over ball to ball. Order doesn't matter. Some modes require multiple qualifiers. For example, Flies and Spiders requires DWARF and Bilbo I believe. Depends on who is IN the mode.

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I'll guess you get to play the next one even without completing it. It would be nice to have an option to select which of the 3 movie multiballs you want to play / replay as they are unlocked.
For the games final wizard mode I'm sure everything will need to be completed.

Keith has said the Arkenstone modes must be played in order, unlike the main modes. As for advancing to the next without completing the first...not sure on that. Hopefully.

#767 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

How do you defeat Smaug™ and Into the Fire™ ?
I got got 4 Smaug™ multiballs and Into the Fire™ twice last night in a single game ! Posted a respectable 2.6mil....

You do all the tasks...there are ends to them and victory laps.

#796 4 years ago
Quoted from mikebetz42:

Download the file, and extract the file on your PC/Mac
Format a USB stick with fat32
Copy the directory "hobbit_update" to the USB stick
Plug it into the USB cable by the coin box.
Enter the game service menu and update the code.
Re-boot the game.
The game will not re-boot after the code update but will show the v1.21. I played a game after the update and at the end of the game both monitor screens went blank. After a re-boot everything was fine. So re-booting is a necessary step.

Rebooting is done automatically by the update and shouldn't need to be done manually.

#850 4 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

How do you qualify the Erebor Super Spinner, and how do you collect?

Yes, shoot loops to advance towards Erebor. When it has been reached the loop inserts turn purple and the spinners make a different sound when hit. The "collect" super spinner jackpot shot is the captive ball, so avoid that until you're ready to cash in. You have a minute to jack the spinners before cashing in. I got it up to 45k once...anything over 20k is pretty good.

#854 4 years ago
Quoted from TouchingEvil:

Thank you Then its not bad if i only can get hold of a standard version ?

No, not bad...the standard is missing a few things like the axes on the slings and the barrel bumpers I believe. Same gameplay.

#863 4 years ago
Quoted from goldant:

Does anyone else have problems with the windlance strength? A full strength fire will sometimes barely launch the ball to the center drain, other times it launches it all the way to Gollum but still not high enough to hit the man targets.
If the kickback is fired or the game auto fires a ball from a rest in position in the windlance it is fine. For example at the beginning of flashback, that shot makes it up to the right orbit pretty consistently. The issue only occurs when the strength meter is used to fire the ball at the man targets.
I also occasionally see the kickback fail to eject the ball with the first hit, but the second hit can send the ball out just fine.

I don't see any of those issues. It's a little inconsistent on strength, but generally close. I stop the moving bar for the strength meter basically at the tip of the spear and it generally hits the MAN targets. I have a problem with nudging the machine when it's screaming towards the left outlane, missing, and then in turn the kickback misses the ball and there's no ball save. I wish there was a ball save when it's supposed to kick the ball back in play (at least when it's in single ball play).

#885 4 years ago
Quoted from PerfectFlaw:

You need to adjust the delay for the kickback and it will almost never mess up

It will if you nudge the machine at the right (wrong) time, otherwise it never misses.

#892 4 years ago
Quoted from dtowndobe:

Last night, got an extra ball special - had to hit a roaming drop target, then once you hit that, you have to hit both the Radagast hole and Balin hole to collect the extra ball. I was surprised I hit the roaming target... then I drained before I get even attempt the hole shots!!!
Pretty damn cool sequence to get an extra ball! Kudos to Keith and Ted for that!

It's the first thing I go for...get all the mode qualifiers and collect the extra ball. I'm not sure entirely how this works because sometimes I don't get the roaming drop.

#904 4 years ago
Quoted from goldant:

Has anyone else noticed their ramp flaps keep making their way up? I've got a playfield protector with the playfield set at 7.0, and the flippers set at 27/27. When the ramp flaps are recently pushed back down, the ball sails up smoothly, and you can barely make the shot from right flipper to right ramp...etc, if feels about right. As the flaps start to lift the ball starts to jump it's way up the ramp and it feels a lot less smooth.
Is there any kind of trick to keeping the ramp flaps down? I almost wish I had a straight piece of metal for each screw to hold down the ramp flaps.

Funny, I just bent mine back down last night. I too have the protector. A suggestion of strong double-sided tape to the bottom of the flaps might work long term. I bent them back, but they will eventually lift back up.

#906 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think I have solved the ball spin-out problem when it drops down thru the wireform loops. It actually happens on both the left and (mostly) the right. I have still had this happen even though I put a rubber on the wire guide.
I was watching the ball carefully (no beer in me at all) while it dropped out of the loop.
The ball doesnt always spin out of the lane, defying gravity all the way into the golum lane and drain, every time. Only once in awhile and at the worst possible time. A fast running ball can have a huge spin on it.
If everything goes well, on a regular shot, the ball rolls down the wireform and rolls down the loop, bounces a little and then goes down the lane.
However if the ball rapidly circumscribes the ring before dropping, this puts a spin/rotation on the ball that makes it roll up and out of the lane.
My wireform "double" loops were not parallell to the PF. In fact they were hanging a bit low in the downhill side by about 3 degrees.
This angle made it easier for the ball to spin out of the lane as it was more in line the the balls rotation.
In order to counter the spin on the ball one must convert it to a lateral spin instead of an uphill spin, you have to bend the loop up a bit.
The goal is to have the "double" loop bent upward on the downhill side in relation to the PF angle.
The problem was how to do it easily without applying too much pressure on the form and ripping out any mounting screws, as you have to bend it at least 1/4"to 5/16" especially if the bend was negative (like mine) when you started.
I ended up hooking a 3/8 (or bigger) nut driver inside the lower "double" loop with the handle over the wireform side, pressing carefully until the nut driver handle was basically resting in upper part of the wireform itself. The bending of the double loop didnt break the welds or harm it as far as I can see, as I was being careful.
I actually did this on both the left and the right sides.
The upper single loop can also be bent up so that it matches cosmetically but its not really neccessary. (I just wedged a big screwdriver in and bent it up a bit so it looked level).
Kpg has mentioned in this thread that you can put a rubber on the wireguide in the lane. This actually works as it will brake the spin of the ball when it hits it, but for me it blocks the lane a bit, and its hard to get a tiny rubber that fits properly.
If the loop is bent up enough the problem is solved forever, as the ball spin will be lateral now instead of uphill.
I hope this helps anyone else with this problem. As always your milage may vary, its pinball.

I'll have to do this as I get the spin out the drain every so often. Extremely angering when it happens.

#929 4 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

i will wait for the JJP version
i think this will be free vom JJP when it is approved
also the fix for the left wire ramp
and for the smaug

That is the JJP version. I believe the file was shared by them.

#950 4 years ago
Quoted from John1210:

In any of these play videos I'm still trying to work out the point of that 3rd flipper.

A few kickback at the captive ball when the ball drops out of the pops, kicking over barrels after the ball leaves the pops to work towards an extra ball, and the mode where you have to hit the Smaug targets following a kickback to the right orbit (and killing Smaug in Smaug multiball). It's useful for hitting the Orc or goblin beasts if running out of time too.

#952 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

I never understood nor supported all of the negativity regarding the 3rd flipper. But now as an owner, I honestly don't see all that much value in it.
99% of the time, an upper flipper shot is not good for much. Certainly nothing specific that you can't hit with the other flippers.
It doesn't make the game suck, but it sure could've been better if there was a rewarding shot attainable only by the upper flipper (i.e., TSPP Treehouse ramp.)
Perhaps future rules might make it more purposeful, but the current uses offer very few reasons to defend it.

Those weren't reasons enough? *shrug*

#967 4 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

What's the most points that anyone has seen for a skill shot? I just got one for over 19k points, and that was by hitting only 3 of the 4 rollovers.

I think 18 or 19 something for me...the rollovers are definitely the most rewarding. If you don't have to press the ring button it's worth more and successive skillshots are worth more too. If you miss the K and get the C, O, and L that's worth more than getting the K, C, and O and missing the L. You always at least want the L.

#979 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I keep having to bend the left ramp tin back down. Anybody else have this problem?

Yep. Try loosening the ramp screws so they aren't putting as much pressure on them.

#985 4 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

So what's the target in the right outlanes for? I've asked before and everyone said it's gollum ball save thing if active but it seem that activates on the outline switch.
Is it for a multiball ball save like woz?

Yes, it's for a multiball ball save or add-a-ball. It has zero to do with the Gollum ball save game. When it's active the right inlane GI lights strobe in a pattern towards the target. Pretty cool.

#1004 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Got the blue spring ordered from Marco along with a post to block left ball stick. Thanks for helping. Just had a 1.3 million game. What a wild game. Awesome!

The blue spring will be too strong.

#1007 4 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Anything close to 7+ degrees needs a slightly firmer spring, hence why I went with the blue.

Disagree...worst case, just stretch the stock spring out a tad and you're good. You want it hitting the F with a full strength plunge.

#1018 4 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

I don't have my game yet otherwise I would probably know the answer to this question. Ideally if you have a plunger skill shot where the maximum amount earned is somewhere between the minimum and maximum pull on the plunger, then why would you want a spring that hits this so-called "F" drop target with the maximum pull? I mean don't you want a shot where you have to figure out just how far to pull the plunger back in order to nail the intended target? What you are describing is no skill shot at all. I would think you would want a spring that is stronger than what you have described.

The F is worth very little and is NEVER my intended target.

#1021 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I just want the option at the very least to hit ALL skill shots available. The current factory spring is so inconsistent and keeps getting worse. I have it lined up perfectly, but it just doesn't get the upper half of dwarf targets. Hopefully this new spring fixes it.

Have you considered checking the skill shot lane guide? The stock spring should have the power required.

#1026 4 years ago

Anyone find a way to get the roving inlane skillshot with decent success? It's so nearly impossible that I never even try it anymore.

#1029 4 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I've been able to soft plunge to the right in lanes successfully with the stock spring.


#1032 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

With the recent code updates I would think that many of us would give this game a better rating in the top 100?
Into the fire simply ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got to victory laps in Into the Fire the other day! The last few rounds are confusing because it only tells you what to do on the flashing shot or callouts to guide you. Pretty awesome mode though. I always get the blinding "replay" light show during that mode it seems.

#1038 4 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

I had a mega game and got to into the fire 3 times in that game. I'm probably done playing until you can progress further into the game.

I'm starting to get that same feeling, although I am concentrating on beating modes more now. I beat like 5 modes in a row earlier today, including a couple I hadn't completed before. I still have yet to kill Smaug, so that's a good goal for me too.

#1067 4 years ago
Quoted from mummite:

- Is the Subway divertor integrated into any mode yet, if so what mode and how can I test? I have never seen it used and when a ball goes into the subway it always comes out the Left VUK and NEVER the right VUK.

Yes, because I've seen it come out the right VUK. Can't tell you when or how though, but I believe it diverts after completing "A Thief in the Night" for one.

Quoted from mummite:

are the Bag End entrance optos used for anything?

It's used for some of the modes where you have to hit Bag End.

#1078 4 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

I watched another video on Youtube of TH. During into the fire between every scene you have to get the super jackpot (captive ball) to advance.
I heard Gandolf say "SUPER JACKPOT!!" and then thorin say 'READY'
It sounds so weird.
Do you think they forgot to get the Gandolf voice over guy to say "the super jackpot is ready"? Why would they hack 2 voices together
Edit: This is the video
» YouTube video
Its 16 mins and 57 seconds in.
I think it might be Gandolf saying ready - but its still kinda hacked together.

It's Galdalf for both...they could trim up the pause a bit to make it sound less awkward, but you're right. It's a little off.

#1112 4 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

What do you guys have your trough coil setting at?
I am having a terrible time getting the trough to put a ball in play with any consistency at all. Sometimes it can take 3-4 attempts before the ball is put in the shooter lane. Super annoying, especially when you start multiball.

I had to bend the tab where it ejects up towards the top of the pf...then I set it light as possible. It's almost 100%, but has to do it twice once in a while. I'm content.

Edit: about 5 people beat me to it.

1 week later
#1227 4 years ago
Quoted from sebseb12:

The magnet behind smaug it is programmed in the game?
In tests, it works but in the game, never seen

I've seen it a few times

#1235 4 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

So how do you kill Smaug - is it in his multiball?

Yes, beat his multiball.

#1248 4 years ago

I'm not one to post scores too much, but damn...1.3p code is fantastic. After my first ball (plus extra balls) I got 3.2 M something and ended the game at over 4M!
- I played both Into the Fire and Barrel Escape 3 times each.
- I collected what seemed like 5 extra balls.
- I killed Smaug once and was a shot away a second time (frustration to be described later)
- I got the gollum save bar down to what looked like a single pixel in width. Impossible to get.
- I got the LOCK rollovers doing the evil LOTR thing where it toggles every time you trigger it, so you have to get lucky to spell lock later on.
- I noticed that when you finish all the modes a character or race is involved in the text "Completed" shows on the screen over them.
- I believe the new Treasure Hunt mode occurs when you have two balls leftover from the new multiball modes when you either complete OR fail a mode. I think it's never ending as long as you have two balls or more in play?
- Arkenstone modes start over each time you play them.
- I got the Beast inlane lights only allowing one to be lit at a time, which allows you to rape ramps without a beast popping up. It's harder to get Beast Frenzy, but not by much.
-I found a bug in Smaug multiball where I got down to the windlance shot and hit the right ramp with one of my two remaining balls. Shortly after I hit the ramp with the other ball. The first ball launched but the second ball got diverted and drain because the post didn't come up. Very frustrating.

Going to sleep...may think of something else cool that happened while dreaming.


#1253 4 years ago

Thought of something can get a "sneak in" lock for the modes if you dribble a ball into the passage above Smaug when the orbits aren't lit for locks. Cool little touch.

I had a bonus of 365k that I almost tilted away too. Thankfully, I didn't!

#1255 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

Great game! I thought there was a big difference between 1.10 and 1.21, but I honestly think an even bigger difference between 1.21 and 1.30. The mode ball lock is a game changer as well as treasure hunt and wind lance awards. It also becomes much easier to complete modes later in the game since the difficulty of the beasts is higher meaning less times you have to worry about them popping up.

Oh yes, windlance awards: I got a double pf award from that last night!!

As awesome as the game is, I'm worried it's actually becoming too easy.

#1259 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

Easy from what standpoint? I think the rules yield to very long ball times especially with the addition of Book Mode mb. Then it's much easier to get to Into the Fire and Barrel Escape. But I think beating those two modes is extremely hard as well as beating some of the individual modes. I still have yet to come remotely close to playing all 31 modes in one game, which is rumored to be the final wizard mode.

Easy in the sense that I'm having close to 45 minute long games and playing 6 Arkenstone modes in a game. Granted, I only beat Into the Fire once (got close on Barrel Escape) and some modes really are difficult to beat. Somehow I collected around 5-6 extra balls. It just seems that, like LOTR, after a long game you don't feel like pressing start again for a while. We'll see how the code finishes up though. Lots of stuff to come yet.

#1261 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

Yeah I know what you mean. I think going into it you are going to have to accept that it's a grind. I think the modes diversify it well enough where you aren't shooting for the same things all of the time. Here are the different ways I've seen to get an extra ball lit.
1. Mystery award from the mystery target
2. 25 captive ball hits
3. 50 captive ball hits (I think)
4. Kicking over enough barrels
5. Windlance award
6. Qualify all the modes and hit the roaming drop target
7. Treasure Hunt??? Very unsure on this

I wouldn't call it a grind (yet). It's very fun and I never feel like I'm chopping wood to's just looong game times is all so you don't want to play multiple times in a row.

Treasure hunt definitely has an extra ball available. I might have scored a few of those.

#1268 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My ramp flaps are getting pretty beat up near the bottom where the ball strikes the ramp.
As others have seen, this is causing the flap to bend up about 1/8" to 3/16".
It does impact the ball speed going up the ramp by a bit, and causes a little bouce that kills inertia, that makes it harder to make the ramp shot.
Other than bending the flap back down and loosening the screws (as I have done) for a temporary fix, Is there a permanent solution?
Maybe more robust flaps out of stronger spring steel? Does anyone carry this for me to order?
Somehow reduce the initial slope of the ramp flap by installing the flap a little higher up?
Putting some foam tape under the flap initially so that it wont bend as much after repetitive ball strikes?
What seems to be the correct solution?

Would like to know a valid solution too...though I haven't tried the double sided tape yet. That's my next thing to try.

#1277 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Please explain what the new ball locks before mode start is all about. Thanks.

When you spell lock via the rollovers you now have the option to lock a ball via the orbits (magnet above catches ball). These locked balls will apply to any mode you start. The first two of these locks are available when you spell lock as normal. Successive ones require spelling lock separately from the Smaug locks (rollovers change to red instead of green). So any mode can be a multiball now.

#1278 4 years ago


#1292 4 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

For the ramp flaps, what about loosening the ramps up and putting some foam to support the ramp under the ramp flaps?

I actually tried that. It lasts longer, but still curls up.

#1333 4 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

So things are not going the best with my Hobbit so far.
I'd like to make it clear, that I still do think it is a fantastic game (in theory) but there are a lot of annoyances making the ownership experience not so good right now. I documented a bunch of them in video below, is there a good way to share this info with JJP so they can look at addressing some of the issues?
1) Coils melting
There is clearly a bug with the pop-ups. If the switch triggers multiple times (because the "troll" target switches a little shoddy and vibrate back and forth quickly, even after multiple attempts to adjust them) then it keeps pulsing the power to the coils (so it seems) Eventually the coil melts, it's hard to tell there is even anything wrong, until it’s too late and you have a pop-up error it won't go down anymore.
My Warg melted after 24 games, and my Orc melted after 125 games. There should be a safety timeout in the software at the very least to stop it melting coils.
2) Balls falling off the far left wireform all the time.
This one seems like such a bad design, no idea why it doesn’t have sides like the other wireforms, which would make it so much more reliable. Trying to adjust this wireform perfectly is so frustrating. On mine, the ramp is bad and has a lip which causes the ball to ski-ramp off the wireform, over the ball save post, and down the drain
3) Ball hangups
On pretty much every machine I own, there are little clear plastics attached with angle brackets (either from the factory – or as operator service kits) that deflect balls away from areas in which they can get stuck. On Hobbit, there are a few places where the ball can hang (and have happened to me a few times) so it looks like we need some deflectors to fix them (I have some photos of ball hangs) I think they are made worse by the popups and drop targets sometimes launching the balls in the air.
4) Inability to “rescue” a ball mid game.
On most pins, you can “pause” by opening the coin door, removing the glass and then returning a stuck ball to the shooter lane (especially important in competitions) but on the Hobbit, when you close the coin door (in order to be able to put the glass back on) it immediately fires the ball out, so you can never save them.
5) Playfield lamps “freeze” or crash
During a long game, the playfield lamps will eventually freeze up (some on, some off) and will not return to working until the game is power cycled. I have been told to try swapping the USB cable ports, so I will try this when my game is working again.
6) Parts breaking or falling off
I am collecting a small number of screws of unknown origin in the bottom of my cab, again I am only on 125 plays, so this should not be happening already. Additionally I am finding bits of broken clear plastic appearing in the bottom of the cab (see video) - the source of these is the pop-up mechs, there is a clear plastic U shaped light guide under all the popups, these are clearly not strong enough and are smashing to bits. My first one dropped broken pieces into the bottom of the cab in less than 24 games. This part needs replacing/upgrading on all 4 targets
7) Lights crash if you perform a GI test
After a GI test, playfield lamps will not work at all until the game is power cycled. This is of course a minor issue for software.
8 ) Can’t set the time.
No matter how many times I re-set the time to the correct time in the menu’s next time I check , the time has changed +/- 2 hours. The minutes are always right but the hours change themselves and are never right.
9) Can’t properly disable broken features
If something breaks (see melted coils above) you can disable some of the mechanisms in settings, but there is no broken feature compensation, therefor, the game cannot be played properly and advanced to Into the Fire etc. This is more noticeable on my machine due to the length of time it has spent with popups not working, so therefor not fully playable
10) Rails under playfield do not line up
The rails (with black rubber stoppers) were clearly designed to line up with and “stop” on the lock down bar mech, but the rails miss the mech and are instead leaning on the cab. The problem with this is that it is going to over time damage the front of the cabinet
11) The popups can swallow a ball if they drop down when a ball is at the front (I understand this is going to be fixed)
Obviously these issues are of different levels of importance, but I would like to see some of the more frustrating problems resolved sooner rather than later. I’ve not had much dealing with JJP so far, so I will give them the benefit of the doubt, and assume they will fix things for now (unlike a certain other pinball manufacturer that is completely incapable of dealing with feedback)
Video links :-
» YouTube video
» YouTube video

Wow, you got a lemon.

#1429 4 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

A lot of us have seen similar issues and JJP pulled this update from their website already. No more day 1 software updates for me. I'm sure they will make it right soon though.

Hmmm, 1.3p has no crashing issues.

At least they'll know where to look.

#1496 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

The ramp flaps are fine, I have no idea why anyone even complains about them? The ramps are silky smooth when hitting them. Don't worry about it.

The ramps are smooth and nice when the flaps aren't curling up by 1/2" and slowing the ball or causing it to jump. Sounds like you got lucky and don't have that issue. Others like me do.

#1586 4 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

So are the SE's a subset of the 1500 LE's? In otherwords, SE + LE = 1500?


#1598 4 years ago

Neither are rare and will be readily available for quite some time. I would highly doubt there were more than 1000 SEs ordered by that "cutoff date", but the secrecy around the actual number really allows JJP to make 5000 SEs if they want to. Makes no difference either way. Neither are rare. Did I say that neither are rare? Just to be safe: neither are rare.

#1607 4 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Question about the "Load Arrow" light in the left outlane: what does it do? Whenever it's lit the ball drains right past it and I see no registration of anything. The Windlance post works and the Windlance fires correctly- and even saves if the ball goes right back into that outlane. Does the "Load Arrow" set up a Windlance shot on the next ball? Please enlighten me!

Load arrow gives you a shot at the MAN targets when starting a mode with the moving power bar.

#1613 4 years ago
Quoted from PromoJoe23:

I've had my Hobbit up and running since Monday and maybe have 15 games on it. Was having my best game so far when almost all the coils stopped working. No ball eject, mode eject on the left side. Anyone know where to look to see if anything has come undone or possible blown fuse?
Also with the drop targets...mine make a pretty loud ratcheting sound when they up up & down and especially loud on bank resets. Is this normal?

Ratcheting noise is normal. Check all the plugs on the back of the metal box in the bottom of the cabinet. Make sure they're snug.

#1617 4 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

I believe the "cut-off date" you speak of was just the last date you could change your mind and have your on-order LE be converted from an LE to an SE without an increase in price. If I'm not mistaken all SE's being produced do not say 1 of some number like the LE's do. In that case, the number of SE's can be limitless, where the LE's are limited to 1 to 1500. I, by the way, have LE #1498 on order from Dec, 13, 2012.

It was specifically said that was the cutoff date to get an SE ordered for anyone, including distributors. Doesn't mean distributors didn't order 500 of them to sell later. Jack could theoretically say Pinball Sales ordered 2000 of them to sell later. LOL. What does it matter?

#1634 4 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

The axes for the slings on my LE ARE metal. There are some plastic ones in the goodie bag though.

Yeah, they are metal with a sticker applied. Would be cool to see a painted properly formed axe though.

1 week later
#1733 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

6 holes 5 screws.
LTG : )

#1740 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeekayjay:

Had to leave for weekend too man it hurts!
Got a couple games in before Orc (upper left) got stuck open. Didnt get a chance to look into it before I had to leave.
Two other issues I noticed:
My "book" isn't working. It's mostly a white screen but sometimes the visuals will flicker on then fade out to white. Anyone had this?
All my inserts look "shattered" kinda I think referred to as crazing? Are they all this way?
I know I saw some pics of someone else's machine and It looked like they had the same thing...
Can't wait to get back to the machine!

My inserts are similar. Not noticeable when playing.

#1769 4 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Software question. What's the deal with the mode 'the bait'
It asks you to hit the right ramp or right orbit. But it keep the 2 x beasts up so you can't hit make the shot. If you hit the beats it makes a sound but nothing happens. I think I hit the beasts 3 times each. At some point when there is 5 seconds left 1 of them went down but don't know what triggers it.

You have to drop the blocking beasts by hitting the left ramp or left loop. That will drop a beast for a bit and give you a shot the hit the previously blocked shot. It is tough. The beast will come back up shortly, so best to bring a multiball into this mode.

#1778 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I got my fix kit last night. Just to let you all know, I was able to install all 4 pop up blockers without removing anything. I used a power driver with drive extension. It really wasn't bad other than dropping a couple screws and having to search for them in the playfields mechanical mayhem. Lol. Post works great, pop ups look good, and I also got the glass extension plastic and that works well too. I'll get around to installing new ramp flaps when I have more time and ambition. Anyway, great job jjp, and big thanks to Frank at jjp for much help.

New ramp flaps?

#1784 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

No adjustment needed on any pop ups. It is tight, but works great. Really not looking forward to installing the ramp flaps though. Game is playing great though.

Ramp flaps?

#1786 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Anyone else had issues with he ramp flaps being quite high off the playfield?
I've pushed the Ramps down and screwed them in and that has removed some of the slack but there is still gaps.
Video of the issue : » Vimeo video
And after res screwing them down.
» Vimeo video
I thinking this isn't a long term fix.

Yes, lots have that issue. I hear a fix is coming soon. Some may have it already??

#1793 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

My new blue flaps came with my fix kit per my request. The ramp has to come off and new rivets need installed which came with ramps. It's going to be a pita I think.

Hmmm...I asked about those just last week and was told they're not ready yet. My kit is on its way supposedly without any ramp flaps.
I have to bend mine down frequently.

#1805 4 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

During boot up I noticed that the Jersey Jack logo is upside down on my mini book display. Is this normal? Everything else displayed is the right way up so it just seems bizarre that they would let the logo be displayed incorrectly.

That's normal. They all do that.

#1826 4 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Anyone else having this issue? The ball comes down the right wire form and as it drops through onto the play field it gets just enough spin on the ball to spiral up out of the inlane into the outlane? Happens maybe 1 out of 10 times......Any thoughts?

Yep, it happens because of the turns in the wireform. I had to bend the end of the wireform up a bit to basically spin the ball up/down vs left right. Just use gentle pressure when bending!

#1863 4 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I responded to your post on the other thread you posted to and I agree about putting Mylar all the way around. I imagine it was put only at the bottom for easy installation? Just guessing.
I will be installing Mylar at the top of my pop ups. I just checked and all four are digging into the clear after 220 plays.

Another plus for the pf protector.

Edit: and the Mylar is all around the "trolls" anyways.

#1872 4 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I didn't have a choice on the protector because I bought distributor stock that was ready to ship. I still don't think I would want it because it is bound to capture dirt underneath and start looking bad over the years.
On my game the mylar is only around the bottom and extends 3/4 the way up the sides but isn't protecting the top:

There is quite a bit of clearcoat damage on my game. It's not into the art thankfully.

I took one of the flaps off so I can make a stencil and cut some mylar, so my game is down until I can get that done.

My game is definitely an early build. It was built on 3/10/16.
I'm glad the videos helped you make the right choice I really enjoy playing this game. Again, THANK YOU for pointing this out! If I knew I would have installed mylar day one. The damage isn't visible and its under the flaps (I keep telling myself that LOL)
I haven't ordered the update kit yet so I will ask about the mylar as well.

Holy smokes! That is crazy. At least it's not visible.

#1935 4 years ago
Quoted from bonanza:

for those that got the playfield protector are you happy with it?

Yes, it's great! Probably overkill, but it looks great and plays great and I can cut it off down the road years later and have basically a NOS pf.

#1993 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

So, what is the circular insert between the flippers telling me?

It gradually lights up brighter and brighter as you collect pieces of the Arkenstone.

#2010 4 years ago
Quoted from Rick432:

Are people with Hobbits that have the full playfield protectors installed ALSO placing upper mylars around the character mechs or is that overkill?

You don't need any Mylar if you have the protector. Whatever is factory installed UNDER the protector is it.

#2013 4 years ago
Quoted from Rick432:

Well. actually, wouldn't be too hard at all to lift up the protector and put a couple small pieces of mylar down beneath right next to the trap door cutouts. Remember that protector is not glued down at all.
I'm just asking if people think that that's enough protection for repeated trapdoor smackdowns on the playfield.

Of course it is...the plastic protector IS your protection.
I'm honestly not sure why you're thinking of adding mylar under the thick protector. What do you think that would accomplish?

#2086 4 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Yes - contact JJP tech support and they'll help you out.

I contacted and they said they weren't out yet, but would be announced when they were.

2 weeks later
#2172 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

oh my lord! Is that due to a tight turning stair case or something?
One thing is for sure, no one is every going to steal it in a hurry

I had this occur about twice in about 100 games. In the past week I had to remove the main ramp to bend the flaps back. In doing so I had to remove both ramp wireforms. After putting them back i've experienced the ball looping out every single game :\
I think it definitely has to do with the last post that holds each ramp. I have some very detailed historical photos from when it worked perfectly so i'll refer to them to see if I can get it right again.

You shouldn't have to remove the main ramp to bend the flaps! Just loosen the ramp entrances and lift it up over the active ball. Plenty of room to bend back. Speaking of which:
Where is the ramp flap fix JJP!!!!??

2 weeks later
#2264 3 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

Can anyone tell me when the diverter comes down to make the ramp a loop?

Moon Runes mode and during the 2nd stage of the Barrel Escape Arkenstone mode.

1 week later
#2354 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Smaug was not an "LE". It was a "SE". I don't "think" they have a SE game # listed on them. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. There usually is a game production number on it on the playfield front edge or under the apron.

They are indeed numbered on the apron. Mine in number 7 I believe. It doesn't have the "/1500" like the LE does because the limit is unknown.

#2355 3 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

That is correct. Smaug is not a "limited" number run, it's just a "special" edition. They aren't limited to 500 units so they don't number them.

They ARE numbered and were limited to what was ordered by the end of 2015.

#2362 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Ok, that's good to know. I think that they had to be ordered by the end of 2013 though. I could not get a Smaug SE (JJP direct) when I ordered mine a little over a year ago. Before they went into production they knew how many would be built - if they stuck to that. They could have put that "out of" number down. That's ok, not "real" important to know that. I wonder if they started the "Black Arrow" version because they saw that they would run out of LE numbers in the near future.

Oh yeah...2013 (or 2014?) I guess.

#2405 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Hey guys - anyone else have this happen? I'll have the "Load Arrow" insert and "Kickback" insert lit, and when the ball goes down the outlane, nothing happens. If just kickback is lite, it'll kick back just fine. Is this a bug or am I missing something?

The "Load Arrow" light has nothing to do with draining out the outlane. If it's lit it means you'll get a shot at hitting the MAN targets (via a power meter stopped by the ring button) when STARTING the next mode. Saying that, if should not mask out a lit kickback. I've not noticed that on mine. If the kickback is lit it should kick.

#2409 3 years ago
Quoted from dgarrett:

Mine is #7. Serial # ends in 016.

Yes, turns out I'm #11

1 month later
#2638 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Thanks ... still a little unclear, but I get the general concept. It's another multiball mode. I'll have to read up on what to do once the lock roll-overs are all red. I have not got them all red yet.

No, it's not. It's just harder progression to lock balls for modes. When you get them all red the loops light to lock a ball for the next mode.

#2669 3 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

So I must have started it and did not realize it? Very weird

You have old code.

#2689 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackstorm:

Today my buddy got the hobbit smog. I've never played this game before and thought it was great but the fourth game in I had an awesome game that lasted roughly 45 minutes to an hour and game just stopped and the balls drained like when you beat medieval madness and was showing a clip of the dragon and it said you beat the smog. The game then fired back up into a multi-ball. Just was wondering did I beat the game or was there more to it

You beat Smaug multiball, which is a decent challenge but not too tough. There is MUCH MUCH more to do and much harder goals in the game.

#2709 3 years ago
Quoted from Bricarus:

Sorry if this has been covered, I did a search but didn't find anything.
When ordering this game from JJP, they give an option for a playfield covering. Do they apply it at the factory for you? Would anyone recommend or not recommend this upgrade? This would be home use only.

They install for you. I love the protector...especially with the beast mechs slamming up and down constantly. It looks great, plays great, and protects your game. With home use it's probably not necessary, but I can cut this thing off in a few years time and have basically a NOS pf in my game. I wish I had gotten it on my WOZ after seeing and using it on my Hobbit.

#2711 3 years ago
Quoted from badbilly27:

With respect, I feel like we've become our grandparents who used to cover their furniture in plastic. Yep it preserves it, but its just not the same. Just one person's opinion.

You're right, it's better. It sounds quieter too.

#2715 3 years ago

it is deep but doesn't have the mini-goals like WOZ and TSPP do...for example, in Hobbit you are pretty much just trying to play and beat the 3 Arkenstone modes. Play modes until you beat one, play Smaug mb, play Beast multiball, play Feast Frenzy. That's cool, but no mini-goals along the way. With WOZ you're trying to get to Melt the Witch. So play Emerald City mb, play Rescue mb, play munchkin mode, play fireball frenzy, play Haunted mode. The difference is there are mini-goals to each of the WOZ "things to do". Play all munchkin modes to get Munchkin multiball and collect a diamond. Play all haunted modes to get Haunted multiball and collect a diamond. Beat ECMB to collect a diamond. Quench enough fireballs in fireball frenzy to collect a diamond. Beat Rescue mb to collect a diamond. Throw in Crystal ball modes, HOADC, the yellow brick road, throne room, oz lanes, Glinda awards, and the two outlane games and you have a full package. Hobbit is lacking "diamonds" to collect for an ultimate goal and mini goals to go for along the way IMO. It would be cool if say you completed all Gandalf modes you got a special multiball or mode. Same for each race and Bilbo/Radagast. Or play/complete 10 modes, get some award. There is no real incentive at this point to beat/play more than one mode between each Arkenstone mode. The goal is just to get to the next one.

Saying that, it's still a fantastic game and one of the deepest ever. I think there is more yet to come to bring it to WOZ level though.

#2719 3 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

I thought they said that the game was considered done.

He said WOZ was done fairly early on too. It wasn't.

#2760 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Im worried also with the present code. Whats the point of 32 modes if you only need to complete 1 for each ruin stone to get to the wizard modes. Also no final wizard mode after Battle of 5 armies is a bummer. I also dont like that its the same shot setup to get to each wizard mode, sorta boring after you pass into the fire. Game needs some major polish and changes cause presently its got alot of code but its not as well put together as LOTR's code.
A few things that i would change is increase the difficulty to get the ruin stones after each wizard mode-
So after ITF you would need to beat 5 modes to get the mode ruin stone for BE and 10 modes complete to get the ruin stone for BOTFA.
Start smaug mball 2x for BE ruin and have to kill smaug to get BOTFA ruin.
Make it so have to collect all the dwarfs in feast frenzy and a different song sung by dwarfs during feast frenzy for the barrel escape stone and different song for BOTFA stone.
Also for the Beast frenzy make it beatable with super jackpots for each beast after so many hits on each with the amount of hits required increasing for each ruin stone, so 5 hits each for ITF ruin, 10 each for BE ruin, and 20 hits each for BOTFA ruin stone.
To make the 32 modes more interesting part of the game besides needing to beat 1 to get to each of the wizard modes which i find a total waste of all the badass modes this game has im not really sure what can be done. Maybe divide them up by movie and after you beat each movies modes a mini wizard end of each movie mode starts or a victory lap mball for completing each movies modes. A final after beat all the modes wizard mode needs added also to tie the mode part of the game all together. Im sure theres better ideas to better utilize the modes then that but presently there just filler and should be the other half of the game cause right now it just feels like theres only 3 wizard modes and kill smaug to work towards.
Smaug mball is great the way it is i have no issues with it.
These are just quick ideas and im sure theres much better ideas but in its present form the code is sorta weak in my opinion, deep but weak. Its to repetitive and the modes are very under utilized. I made it to BOTFA in first week i owned it and compared to LOTR its just to easy in its present form.

It sorta gets tougher as you go. Tougher to light lock and tougher to light beasts. If you find it too easy crank the difficulty of those up. It gets really tough when every touch of a lock button toggles it lit/unlit.

1 week later
#2799 3 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Just got a new G.C. Tonight. Played for about an hour with a break in the middle for dinner. Defeated Smaug once, finished "Into The Fire" once, and in all played each the "mini wizard" modes three times. Completed all but one of the "Character" modes! I've never focused on completing the "Character" modes before - I've probably only completed at most 20 in any previous game. Was THRILLED to complete "The Bait". I HATE that one! I think that I've only completed it once before. Game is set to 6.25 degrees with factory stock settings except for a 5 second ball save on launch. What a game! I'm exhausted.

Wait a minute...define "completed" all but one of the character modes. If you truly BEAT them all but one then you're a Pinball god. If you just played them it's still impressive, but not god-level.

#2802 3 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I'm pretty sure that I actually beat them all. I was focused on the modes whenever one started, which frequently happened during Smaug and Beast multiballs. It was exhausting. I'm not sure if you have to actually beat them to get "Completed" on the display over each mode set, but if you look at my picture above you'll see that it is written on two of the three sets. Only Gandalf isn't "completed". Does anyone know?
And I have to say, when the last ball drained and I hadn't gotten that last mode, it really sucked. But I was buzzing pretty well from the rest of the game so I wasn't that bummed.
And I only got one tilt warning. This frigging game is too heavy to move much during play!

It doesn't distinguish between played and completed modes.

#2809 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I thought it would put a gold outline around the mode hexagon tile. That's what it appears to do with mine. Maybe I'm wrong.

No, same either way. I asked for a differentiation early on, but it didn't make it in the game. It's dark if not qualified or played, lit without border if qualified, and lit with border if played.

3 weeks later
#2925 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I guess I had a blonde moment. Dah. I "get it" now ... didn't realize those were classified as a "race" of something in that meaning. There isn't individual modes for that section that I've seen, so shouldn't it be more like "Shoot characters AND spell all races to qualify mode"? Maybe more modes will be in updated code for those.

OR is correct. Well, it should say AND/OR to really be correct. Some modes require combinations of these.

2 weeks later
#2971 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

The magnet was used during "Barrel Escape" I noticed last night ... unless another mode was also piggy backing at the time.

Nope, you're right. It is used in Barrel Escape and a few other modes.

#2981 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Are the clouds scratches? If so just novus 2 them out.

Yeah, it's plastic. Novus 2 and 1 should work great. Clean it.

#2986 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Hobbit action figures installed, final product! The last photo shows brushed aluminum flipper bats installed, replacing the yellow JJP's. They were purchased from Pinball Life. I had to decide between gold vs. brushed aluminum. I have had trouble with the paint on the gold variety chipping off. I think the aluminum correlates well with the brushed aluminum ring button @ the front & the metal ramp @ the back. They are entirely metal & weigh slightly more than the plastic bats. With the increased weight, I think they are more responsive/"better feel". I have my Hobbit canted @ 6.9 degrees. With plastic bats, I needed to set the flipper strength @ 24. With the metal bats, I can lower the flipper strength back to 22.

The barrel figures look stock and pretty good! The others, well...not so much.

#3017 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Yep. Its hard to hit shots when 5 balls are flying around but BE and BOTFA are just beast hit frenzies.. Hit 5 beasts, now 10! now 15! now 20!
Wish it was a little more like the 3 x LOTR movie multiballs. Not sure if its possible with the playfield layout.
Anyways, what this game really really needs is a final goal. Kill Smaug, super JP in Beast frenzy, finish xx amount of modes, finish all 3 arkenstone modes. At least it will be something to aim for.

They're no more beast bashfests than Into the Fire. BoFA needs some polishing, but Barrel Escape is great...maybe even better than Into the Fire.

1 week later
#3059 3 years ago
Quoted from DarkWizard:

I have a much tougher time with the elf and man targets. At least the orbits are in the normal firing arc for the flippers. To hit elf and man you basically have to wait until the ball is rounding the end of the flipper, hard to time these shots for me.

I find the E in ELF pretty much impossible to hit direct with a flipper. The N in MAN is hittable though.

#3066 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Oh no, nothing near that yet, lol. Keith did recently post some info about the next code update on the JJP Google Group.
When Jack said at Expo that the final Hobbit code would be released soon I had a bad feeling. There has been updates, some of which are betas, since Expo but there hasn't a been another huge substantial update. I hope a few more big code updates are in the works. JJP's code support has been stellar so I'll give them the benefit of the doubt that more updates will be coming for TH.

The thing is: TH probably has more code than any game ever already...tons of modes, tons of multiballs, mini-wizard modes, side goals, etc. But even with all that it seems to be missing something. There isn't an overall encompassing goal like Valinor or SOTR. I have no doubt that's coming. Granted, 99.9% of players will never reach it, but having it there as a goal to reach would help the feeling of the game tremendously. Hopefully there's a type of emerald-like thing to collect like in WOZ to show progress towards it, but now I'm getting greedy.

#3072 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

i dont understand how they can say game code is complete when the game itself says there should be a final mode unless im missing something? ive completed all the modes so if its in there i dont know how to start it.

They said WOZ was complete at like version 3 sit tight and let the code come. The final mode will be there eventually.

#3077 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

just downloaded 1.95 beta. looks like Beast frenzy has a super jackpot now and is completable and says something about the ring stopping beast frenzy?
What are the sneaky mode locks? ive never done this and have no idea what they are.

It's always had a super. The ring stopping it is new though.

Sneaky mode locks are locks to make the modes multiballs. When you see the magnet grab the ball at the top left of the game and the lock animation plays...well, that's it. You can read up on how to qualify them. Basically, keep spelling lock.

#3079 3 years ago
Quoted from Procrastinator:

Sneaky mode locks are actually where you get the ball in mode lock, without the magnet being active. It's the standard mode lock when the magnet is active.

Ah, you're right...good call! Those are pretty rare. I've only seen it a couple times.

1 month later
#3224 3 years ago

At this point WOZ is significantly a better game than TH. I own both. A few more code updates can elevate TH, but I'm not sure it will ever be better than WOZ is.

#3237 3 years ago
Quoted from mskoenen:

Just got mine! Smaug SE with Radcals. Should I put flipper button protectors on it? If so, where do I get those? Also, I saw some talk about needing additional leg protection with the Radcals. Does anyone have any more information on that?

You need neither with radcals.

#3253 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I updated the code to the newest beta.
Now in a couple modes the windlance is weak when the meter says strong on launch from the windlance.
Its got to be a bug, Hasn't happened before ever.
For the most part the windlance is normal.
I have to say that the ball save on a failed windlace lock is really good though.


3 weeks later
#3391 3 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Finally got around to installing the updated blue tempered spring steel ramp flaps today. The original soft steel flaps were all distorted and looked like crap. I hand polished the entire ramp assembly while I had it out as the metal looked dull and there was some ugly oxidation looking stuff on the ramp entrances just above the flaps. All ready to go back into the game tomorrow

I've been procrastinating on that...easy enough to do?

#3397 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Id say its about medium as far as a ramp removal, way easier than a lot of games.
After doing it once you could remove, clean and replace in about 30 mins.
Dont use the pop-rivets that come in the kit, they get loose pretty fast.
Use a hand clincher on the regular rivets, or like what was said earlier one of the c-clamp presses (if you can get one) or borrow one.
I spent a lot of time cleaning, waxing and replacing some rubbers while I had it off. So it took about 2 hours total.
I waited until I had 2500 plays on it.

I got a hand clincher press...the rivets they sent are no good?

#3400 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The kit comes with regular 1/8 x 5/32 tubular rivets with backing washers as well as a couple pop-rivets.
The pop-rivets were included in case you didnt have a hand clicher but did actually have a pop-rivet gun.
The pop-rivets would be ok for casual use in the home but would never hold up to commercial usages.
And they can get loose quickly.
So just use the tubular rivets and it will be perfect.

Got it...thanks.

2 weeks later
#3478 3 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Except for during The Battle Of Five Armies mini wizard mode where it goes blank. I really hope that they fix this as I'm sure that it's not what was planned. THIS seems incomplete.

The beta had this fixed...

#3484 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

After you finish 5 Armies, turn on Lord of the Rings and continue to Valinor!!!

I bet we'll get something like There and Back Again on LOTR...Bilbo going home.

1 week later
#3506 3 years ago

Code release notes?

#3515 3 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I really love how at the end of the game when Smaug flys by and breathes fire, it lights the playfield on fire. Epic!
This is by far one of the coolest things I've ever seen on a pinball machine. JJP continues to push the limits of where pinball can go.

I would love it if it did that at brief times during the game when Smaug breathes fire.

The new code is great. It's amazing what some sound and choreography can do to the game. BoFA is much cooler now that it's fleshed out. The polish is very cool. Barrel Escape is polished nicely too, including balancing out the volume of the intro callout! The book is integrated now in all Arkenstone modes too.

Can anyone explain how to qualify the roving drop for the lighting of extra and ball? I thought it was simply light all the races at the same time, but that doesn't always work. Keith, if you're reading, what exactly is needed to qualify the roving drop? It's not just lighting all the races at the same time it appears.

#3518 3 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

I don't think it is just all of the races, you need to light all the mode qualifiers - so you have to have the three races spelled, and also have Gandolf, Bilbo, and Radagast qualifiers lit. I am pretty sure of this, but not 100% certain.

Yes, that's what I meant...but that's not all of the puzzle because that doesn't work always.

#3521 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

They all have to be done by you, spotted ones don't count. If some qualifiers are spotted for you, you need to consume then then do it yourself for it to count. Similarly, all need to be consumed and relit after starting the roving drop target to get it again.

Awesome, straight from the man! Hmmm, well how do you get one spotted? Mystery target? Don't know if I've ever noticed that! I'll have to check this out closer when playing. Playing a mode doesn't require ALL to be collected again for the moving drop, does it? It seems that if I don't get this right away at the beginning of the game I don't see it at all.

#3527 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Default settings actually spot 1 for you at ball start, but that was changed later so you may or may not have that set.

All 6 have to be lit at once. Other than that, after you get it, ou do have to earn all of them again, meaning you have to use them up first.

Hmmmm, well I definitely do not have spotting "on" at game start. I'm fairly sure this doesn't always work as described. I have to do some further testing.

#3539 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Yes i have and nothing happened, this was on 1.95 code.

Looks like you two need to open your outlanes and remove the center post!

#3554 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Do the mode hexigons only stay lit for completed modes or even if they are just attempted?

Stay lit for attempted.

#3556 3 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Great to see the latest round of polishing. The game keeps getting better and better.
Looking forward to (fingers crossed) the modes getting fine tuned to give value to mode order and completions.

That's already there!!!

#3565 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Are purple lights at the beginning of the game supposed to be all the dwarf shots needed?

Yes...needed for Feast Frenzy!

#3571 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

That's good to know. So even though a players grid may be complete it doesn't mean that they beat all 31 modes.
Theres a big difference between attempted vs completed modes when it comes to beating the Hobbit.
It would be cool if Keith could have a gold band or some type of marker on mode hexigons that are completed. Then have a count listed on the grid screen for attempted modes and completed modes.

I asked for the differentiator between played and completed modes long ago and it never made it in...maybe a future update?

#3573 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

There is some graphic difference when you complete - but it's SUPER SUBTLE. I have a hard time telling the difference, and I'm usually good about picking up on those subtleties.

I don't think so...I specifically asked about it before. There is a difference between Qualified and Played modes, but not Played vs Completed modes.

#3575 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Great code update - spectacular! We love the reserve ball setting and have been playing it that way since the beta was out (1.95P). Light shows are great, more call outs help, and the added book instructions during the main major arkenstone modes help to polish this game. Future completion modes that are hoped for (even by Keith) would be great.
Just to vent ... With all these modes and things (like specific call out shots) that need to be accomplished in the game, it cracks me up every time one of these "great" pinball players say that any pin (but especially the deep coded JJP pins) is easy and boring. Fine - after you set it to the hardest setting and do the same, move on to the next game to conquer and ridicule. The majority of the owners love the theatrical entertainment value of the JJP pins. This is a "Owners Thread". Yes, it could probably get "old" for those that are super great "serious" players ... ok ... so ... move on. The rest of us will have fun just playing them ... and for guests to have fun too. That's what mostly sells to homes (fun), and I'm pretty sure that is JJP's main target customer. The locations get the games exposure for those to discover them and want one for the entertaining adventure of figuring it out, polishing their skills, and attempting to conquering it. The fun pins get into homes to be played. Personal special themes sell, but if the game is not fun, it sets ... and guests would soon move on to the fun games very quickly.
I know some of the "great" pinball players that play tournaments all the time might disagree ... ok ... so what. If I was that great at pinball, I would still have my favorite "fun" pins. Variety in pinball is a good thing.
Keep up the great work JJP employees, contract help and suppliers!

The thing that annoys me is that someone says a game is too easy, therefore it sucks. No. Set your game up HARDER! Open the outlanes, remove the center post, change the angle of the game, tweak the software, add lightning flippers, etc, etc. Heck, I can make a Monster Bash play as hard as an IM. Tweak your games people if it's too "easy".

#3577 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Oh ok - there must have been a misunderstanding then. I could have sworn someone explained the difference between played and completed - and I just couldn't see it. Now I know I'm not nuts if it's just not there. Would definitely be nice if some effect for completion was added. A sparkle or glow or spinning icon or something.

Yeah...I suggested a gold outline if complete, and like blue or something if just played.

#3584 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

That would be cool. Although, I don't think he's technically following it any. Didn't Williams or whoever have a patent on that feature? I'll have to pay more attention next time I play, as I never noticed smaug alive until mb started.

He is "following" the ball...he'll turn to face whatever the last switch hit was.

2 weeks later
#3625 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Default settings actually spot 1 for you at ball start, but that was changed later so you may or may not have that set.

All 6 have to be lit at once. Other than that, after you get it, ou do have to earn all of them again, meaning you have to use them up first.

Well, I did have one spotted at start. Changed the "Mode Difficulty" to 5 instead of 4 and that made it do none are spotted at game start. What do the higher difficulties do for that option?

If you are a perfectionist like me Keith...there are a few inconsistencies in the capitalization in the game settings menu. They're easy to spot.

Also, I started the mode "The Bait" and then immediately started "Battle of 5 Armies"...and The Bait kept going during 5 Armies! Is that right? It died out after the mode timer ended, but didn't seem like it should be active. Same with reaching Erebor and starting an Arkenstone mode. The super spinner stays active.

#3628 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

Question: How do I "earn" the Golumn ring save?
What does the target on the lower right outline do?
Thanks guys, I've had a few theories, but still don't quite get what's happening.

I believe Gollum Ring Save is lit by getting your Mystery target to level 4 and then hitting it.

The Beorn target in the lower right outlane is an "add-a-ball" if hit during a Multiball and the inlanes lights are strobing in a sequence towards it. The target has nothing to do with Smeagal/Gollum.

1 week later
#3679 3 years ago
Quoted from sebseb12:

What is the target "beorn" for?
When I play the multiball of smaug, how to cancel beast multiball?

Beorn target is for add-a-ball during multiball (if the inlanes lights are striving towards it).

To cancel Beast multiball during Smaug multiball you must get a Beast super jackpot and then the option to end it will be available for a few seconds via the ring button. Listen for Gandalf's "super jackpot" callout.

#3681 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

Why does everybody always want to cancel beast MB? Not a good sign if you want Out of MB in a game. Sorry, just sayin if you don't like it you prolly won't like TH very much.

If you don't know why then you haven't played enough...the beasts make Smaug multiball much harder as the pop ups block the ramps and orbits. If you want to kill Smaug it is much easier with the beasts out of the way.

#3686 3 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I believe most want the option of canceling beast mb when to much is going on at once but it is not in there yet,I believe this is correct but may be wrong

It's there. I use it frequently.

#3697 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

No, the problem is the ball is hitting the apron and bouncing back into the trough. I adjusted it down and it helped, but it still bounces down about half the time. The auto-launch is the really annoying part.
I guess I could try to adjust it up, but I don't want the ball to damage the apron if it's rocketing out of there too fast. Now it is sort of nicely depositing the balls on the shooter lane, and multiball hasn't been an issue.
The right ramp is really hard to hit with the right flipper - I will try that change too.
One other thing I am having an issue with is the right wireform - when the ball comes down into the inlane, it almost ALWAYS bounces out and drains. It is really annoying - I played 3 games this morning and in all 3 I lost a ball to that. IS that one of the fixes JJP offers?

I had the ball eject issue on my WOZ. Bending the apron tab it hits slightly towards the back of the machine fixed mine. Keep it low power so it barely makes it up.

The right wireform thing you'll have to fix yourself. It's easy. Bend the end of the wireform slightly up towards the ceiling to fix it.