Trondheim
Hobbit SE #78 landed in Trondheim, Norway last week, and was up and running on location the same day. Finally a Hobbit owner! 
Looking forward to seeing how it performs commercially here.
(Topic ID: 155578)
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The Hobbit
Jersey Jack, 2016
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4 weeks later
Quoted from pinballinreno:The ticket system is poor in my opinion.
Just to balance that with some positive experience: I opened four tickets in the support system on Wednesday. They were all handled to my satisfaction within two days.
1 week later
Quoted from ikrananka:1. As others have reported, the strength in the plunger seemed to be getting weaker with use and so I was thinking about buying a stronger plunger spring. But now I am clearly detecting a lot of friction in the plunger itself and it is starting to feel like it is sticking as it is pulled out. Any ideas how to best lubricate a shooter lane plunger? Or is their a plastic insert that may need replacing in a similar style to those used inside coils?
Have you checked the angle of the plunger? On our game, the plunger aimed way too high, so it would not hit the ball squarely and also regularly bump into the top of the auto plunger. Caused weakness and severe inconsistency. Not sure what the correct way is to fix the angle, but we added a shim (a bit of a broken playfield plastic, actually) between the cabinet and the shooter housing, on the outside of the cabinet at the lower end of the housing. Works perfectly.
1 year later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Goronic:The issue is that there is a black plastic 'ridge' that the drops will sit on when raised up. When hit it will push back off the ridge and the spring will pull it down (drop it). I have found that if it doesn't stay up well (or at all) it is because that black plastic ridge is broken. My understanding is that you can't fix it - and have to replace the entire drop target assembly.
We started having this problem consistently lately with one of the drop targets on the left side. Upon checking, we found that all three ridges were completely broken. Two of them had enough remains that the drop targets still stay up most of the time.
Have JJP revised and improved the drop target assembly since the earlier production runs, or do we have to expect these to break?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Are you talking about the black plastic drop Target itself or the mechanism that makes it go up and down?
I'm talking about the small plastic ridges that are riveted to the main bracket to hold each drop target in the up-position. Part number 30-0024-00, item number 22 on page C-26 / C-27 in version 3.2 of the manual.
Afraid I don't have a picture at the moment. The game is on location, and I'm at work (the real one). Will try to shoot a picture next time I visit it.
3 months later
I'll try to take some pictures at some point, but these are the issues I can remember:
* Broken pop bumper bracket
* Broken sling shot arm, twice
* Dead LCD screen twice (seriously bad soldering; see our blog post: http://www.popbumper.no/2018/07/25/hobbit-display-issues/)
* Multiple times: Broken ledges on drop target brackets so targets won't stay up
* One bad lighting wire harness, so an insert lost its blue component
* Beast pop-ups: Broken wires, and switches that need tuning regularly
Quoted from konghusker:14000 plays??? good to hear these games are holding up.
Yeah, it's pretty popular with the players at our location, and has been consistently since day 1.
For 2018 it ends up well established in "tier 2", together with LOTR, GoT, AFM and Spiderman. Tier 1 this year are Metallica, Star Wars LE, and MMr. Tier 3 would be Dialed In, WCS94 (pulled late autumn) and Tron (pulled early autumn). Too new to be tiered yet are JJP POTC, TNA and Iron Maiden, but I can say that POTC and Maiden look quite good so far.
Quoted from Rondogg:When the ledges broke on the drop targets were you able to fix it or did you need a whole new mechanism?
The first time it happened, we bought a new assembly, for two reasons: because just the bracket (which has the ledge) wasn't available to purchase separately, and to have some extra spare parts on hand for later. On later occasions we just super-glued the ledges back together, more or less. It looks a bit crappy, but has worked like a charm for 8+ months so far. If you want to solve it the nice way, the brackets are now available separately, for way less money than the assembly.
2 weeks later
Quoted from f3honda4me:I am considering Hobbit and Dialed In for my next pin. [...] This would be my 2nd pin for my collection, I currently own JJP POTC LE.
I have Hobbit, Dialed In and POTC. Compared to POTC I find Hobbit to feel the most similar in play style, so for variety's sake in a small collection I would recommend Dialed In.
Quoted from LTG:People here love it. Claim it's the best JJP pin.
Same here. It is loved by both the hardcore regulars and the casuals/newbies, which is pretty unusual.
(To stay on topic: Hobbit has also been very popular, but especially with the casual and younger crowd.)
1 month later
Quoted from pinballinreno:When the plastic edge fails people have been replacing the mechs.
You don't need to replace the entire mech, as it is possible to buy just the main bracket. Unfortunately for you guys on the wrong side of the Atlantic, I have only been able to find them in a German web shop:
http://www.shop.freddys-pinball-paradise.de/index.php?&lang=e&lnge=1
Search for 10-8002 and you'll find the two brackets, for 3- and 5-bank.
We replaced one mech due to this problem, but the next time it happened we just super-glued things more or less together again. The glued ones have worked great as well. I'm sure it would be possible to 3D-print a replacement ledge and glue it on, if the original ledge is too broken to glue together. Or maybe drill out the rivets and glue a Stern ledge on: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6163-05 ? I haven't checked the dimensions to see if it would work.
1 year later
Tech question:
I have lost power to two coils, specifically the spider pop-up (power and hold) and the upper slingshot. These two are on the tan colored power line. All other coils on the same line, work fine. Measuring voltage on the tan wire's pin on the molex connector by the spider coil shows 0V. I have continuity between the spider coil and the slingshot coil.
Before I start ripping apart the large and neatly zip-tied wiring looms, do anyone by any chance know where the next upstream power connection is from these two coils?
Thanks
Quoted from LTG:I'd look over the other coil lugs to see if you have a poor connection at one lugs with the same color wire.
Good point, I haven't looked very closely at the lugs. I'll do that.
Quoted from KingPinGames:if you go into the device test, is the spider red?
No, it's green, and all switches work. For testing purposes I swapped the power connectors of the warg and the spider, and when firing the "warg" in device test the spider popped up and both spider switches triggered.
Next question in my quest to get my Hobbit back up to fully working condition: Are the clip-fit optos available anywhere? My "subway enter" opto is dead so I need a replacement, but cannot find it for sale anywhere.
I tried searching for both the Hobbit part# (18-7020-xx-yy) and the Pirates part# (18-005001-xx), which I believe are equivalent(?).
Quoted from oyvindmo:Next question in my quest to get my Hobbit back up to fully working condition: Are the clip-fit optos available anywhere? My "subway enter" opto is dead so I need a replacement, but cannot find it for sale anywhere.
I tried searching for both the Hobbit part# (18-7020-xx-yy) and the Pirates part# (18-005001-xx), which I believe are equivalent(?).
In case anyone else wonders: Though the assembly (opto pair + molex connector) is not available in any pinball shops, the opto emitter/sensor pair itself is readily available at your friendly electronics supplier like Digikey or Mouser. The part is OPB100Z from Optek Technology, and costs around $6-7 for the pair. Problem solved
Edit: So to create a complete opto/cable set, you just need these parts (and a crimping tool):
1 pc. Optek OPB100Z (opto emitter/sensor pair)
4 pcs. TE Connectivity 794956-1 (crimp contacts)
1 pc. TE Connectivity 794954-4 (housing)
Total price around $7.50 without any volume discounts.
7 months later
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