(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

4 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (4 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (4 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (4 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (4 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (4 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (4 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)


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#7885 6 months ago

Anyone know if I can fit a Hobbit into a 2016 Toyota Rav4 (non hybrid)?

#7888 5 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Remove the backbox. Takes about 2 minutes, take about 10 photos of the wiring. Easiest game ever to move. I’ve moved it (once) by myself by removing the backbox, removing and moving the playfield and moving the cab separately.

Thanks!
I would never have guessed the BB would be easy to remove on this game!
No matter though, I was reasonable sure it would fit, so I drove 200 miles and got a beautiful Hobbit Smaug!! So it fits! Game is awesome! Wife loves it the most!!
I'm in the club!!

Now to figure out why the left lower flipper EOS switch is erroring as open. The last owner changed the EOS switch and no go. I guess he talked to LLoyd and was advised that it's probably a break in the wire some where? Haven't had time yet to check it out. In other words, if I pull up the flipper, there is no registration in switch test?

Added 178 days ago:

I'm sorry, I mean the right lower flipper.

#7891 5 months ago

Thanks!
This should solve my problem. I'll get to as soon as I get some time and report back.

#7892 5 months ago

Do any of you guys use an under cab lighting kit for Hobbit? If so, which one? I see Mezel mods makes an interactive kit, anyone try this?

#7893 5 months ago

OK,
thanks to Energyspike I fixed the lower right flipper EOS switch! It turned out to be a bad connector at the plug into the rear of the metal PC box. Like him, I pulled out the black/brown stripe wire and bent the crimp wider and secured it back into the connector housing and was good. I also learned along the way that even if the EOS switch is detected by the computer to not be functioning, the software will only allow a maximum signal pulse such that the coil operates, but will not be energized enough to over heat and melt! How cool is that?
Thanks again!!!

#7902 5 months ago

Which fix kits are available for The Hobbit. As I understand it, there are heavy duty springs for the drop targets, brackets for the beast doors (to prevent balls from getting caught), and a redesigned left wire form (to prevent balls from hopping over kick back post stop? Anything I'm missing?
Thanks!

#7903 5 months ago

Also,
I would like to add Mezel mods undercab light kit (basic non interactive kit) under Smaug Gold. Which color do you guys think would look better? Yellow or Red? .

https://mezelmods.com/collections/hobbit-pinball-mods/products/under-cabinet-lighting-kit-jjp?variant=35949545224

#7906 5 months ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Better ramp flaps. I still haven't ever installed my ramp fix yet due to the complexity of it.

Thanks!

#7908 5 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

There is also an updated right wireform as well that does not have the 'cut out' in the side of it around the top left pop bumper.

What does that prevent?

Is it this one?
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/The-Hobbit-Parts/Wire-Ramp-Right-Hobbit-Chrome.html

#7909 5 months ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Better ramp flaps. I still haven't ever installed my ramp fix yet due to the complexity of it.

Where did you get these?

#7911 5 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Yes. It does not have a cut out to prevent it from falling against the pop bumper and getting stuck.

Thank you for explaining that!
So far, I haven't had that happen. So I'll wait and see how it goes. But the left wire form has been causing the balls to jump the kick back post a lot! Too bad it's the most expensive one. Wish I could have caught it on sale.
Cheers!

#7913 5 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Is there a Kit to fix the drop targets on the skill shot? Mine doesn't always work correctly.

That is what I have read on the web and here on Pinside somewhere. I submitted a support form to Jersey Jack last night about the kit and I'm waiting for a reply. I will post here when I get the info on it.

#7915 5 months ago

I assumed pacman11 was referring to the heavey duty drop target springs that JJ has released. I've already had the DWAR(F) drop target spring break and JJ advises to change them all out at once rather than going back in every time. Makes sense to me.

Added 169 days ago:

They're not heavy duty springs. Just longer.

#7918 5 months ago

Fix kits are still available for The Hobbit.
I asked if kits included the heavy duty springs for the drop targets, brackets for the beast doors (to prevent balls from getting caught), and a redesigned left wire form.
They said that I had the kit contents correct. I hope they didn't misread my question, because I am surprised they will replace the expensive left wire form. But that's what they said. I'll report back when I get it.

J.J responded today that they are shipping me this kit free of charge based on the serial number I sent them. My game born on date is (05-19-2016). Machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need the updates as they were installed at the factory.

Added 169 days ago:

Springs are not heavy duty, just longer. Also, J.J. doesn't send a new left wireform (habitrail), they send a post for the ball trap that exists at the bottom of left wireform.

#7922 5 months ago

Made it to 'Into the Fire' tonight and experienced flipper fatigue I believe. I didn't lift the playfield to feel the coils though. May have to look into the RC motor cooler fan thing.

#7926 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Have you removed the center post?
That increases the challenge quite a bit.

Ya, I rely on it and get a drain too often. But my wife doesn't want me to remove it. She really loves this game.

#7929 5 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I've got the Black Arrow edition, I am assuming this was the latest run and had most of the updates/fixes.. Correct?

Yes,
Machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need the updates as they were installed at the factory. Your build date should be on rear of cab. But Black Arrow was the latest model built.

#7932 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Right?! Weak flipper syndrome would never be a problem again. A few ideas:
Round copper heat exchange pipe wound around a paperless coil.

Ya, I thought about that. But it would probably induce a current into the copper pipe. Not sure how that would affect the coil?
Any electrical engineers out there want to chime in?

#7933 5 months ago
Quoted from finman2000:

You may want to rebuild your flippers. You shouldn't have issues that quick. I have played hour long games with no issue.

My wife warmed them up for about a half hour before I started and I had a multiball going for quit a long spell. Flippers assemblies look new. This game has low plays. But I'll look closer.

#7937 5 months ago
Quoted from HighNoon:

Hi All...just joined the club with a HUO Smaug. So far I love it! I have a question about the fix kit. My born-on date is 7-12-2016 which just misses the date where all machines had the fixes. I have no idea if the previous two owners installed the fixes. How can I tell if the beast brackets, springs, etc. have been installed? I’m not even sure what I’m looking for.

Go up on J.J.'s website and fill out a service ticket form and include your serial number. They will send you the kit if you need it.

#7939 5 months ago

The drop target springs are another matter though. I wouldn't know by looking at them. But no big deal. The left ramp post fix is. Mine jumps the pop up post all the time.

Added 169 days ago:

New springs are longer.

#7941 5 months ago

Here is the upgrade kit J.J sent. They didn't send a new left wireform. Just the post (like konghusker said above). Kit includes said post, new drop target springs, brackets for the beast doors with screws, and instructions for installation.
DSCN0083 (resized).JPGDSCN0084 (resized).JPG
Remember that machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need this update kit as it was installed at the factory. Your build date should be on rear of cab. So Black Arrow doesn't need this kit.

#7942 5 months ago

Also got another switch error today.
Matrixed switch #15 Subway Entrance (stuck open)
Hole behind Smaug.

#7944 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The post us for the left wireform.
It keeps the ball from hanging up.

Sorry, I'm meant Left wireform. (Corrected above)
My ball is often flying over the pop up post that catches the ball before going down the left out lane?
Thanks

#7946 5 months ago

Thank you. I'll do this!
But why did J.J. update their left wireform to the new style? This must have been a common problem. Unless it's just because they know most people won't make these adjustment.

#7950 5 months ago

I keep saying ramp when I mean to say wireform or habitrail.

Thanks fnosm! I'll look into this as well.

The upgrade kit I just got doesn't explain where the left wireform post they included is supposed to go?

#7953 5 months ago

Thank you!

I removed the left wirefrom and used my Dremel with a grinding wheel to remove metal from all four cross braces from diverter location to bottom loop. I then polished it with Zam Buffing compound. The ball was hitting every cross brace! What a shit design for a habitrail! Now the ball doesn't hit any of them and so far, no ejects. I also installed the ball trap post that came with kit. I removed and replaced all the drop target springs as well. Very easy to do once you unplug and remove the drop target mechanisms from machine (easy to do). The new springs are longer than the originals by quite a bit. They must have been pulling too tight on the drop targets, thus breaking prematurely. The plastic edges that drop targets sit on all looked good.
Thanks to you excellent Pinsiders for your help!

#7954 5 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed and toss a ball in. May not have been hit in awhile.
LTG : )

It turned out to be the opto on the outside of the subway channel that popped off. I just snapped it back into place.

#7956 5 months ago

OK, I install one beast door plastic from upgrade kit and now my Spider gets caught on it. WTF! No idea what to do about this? My beast heads are sitting forward.

#7958 5 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Spider mech too close to front of hole ? Wrong plastic ? ( three are kind of flat and one is carved out for spider )
All else fails - remove it and file accordingly and replace.
LTG : )

Nice that the F*cking instructions didn't tell me that?
Thanks. Now I have to tear it all out again and deal with those springs and trap door again! Yah!

#7960 5 months ago

No, I don't see any difference in them at all.

#7962 5 months ago

OK, so how do I adjust the beast to sit farther back?

#7964 5 months ago

So the whole mech? Have to epoxy and drill new holes? Starting to think this ain't worth the trouble.

#7966 5 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd be tempted to file the little bastards face off a little and touch up with black paint. Playing from the front of the game I don't think you'd see it.
But that's just me.
LTG : )

Good idea. But I put it on hold for now. I'm not sure yet if it's worth the trouble. I'm certainly not going to reposition the mechs and start adjusting leaf switches. It works now. I'd rather enjoy the game before causing new problems. I do want to ask though, do the solenoids overheat if a ball gets trapped in the doors? Or does the software prevent this like it does with a failed EOS switch?
Thanks!

#7969 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I installed all of my ball blockers in 8 mins without removing anything.
It just took a little thought and a couple common 1/4" extentions.
Nothing exotic.
I wrote about it in this thread and on the setup and tweaks thread.

If you're talking about this post below... I can tell you that it will not solve my problem. I still had major clearance problem with the Spider and that ball stop. I will have to grind off material and somehow adjust the spider from leaning so far forward. Not sure how to do that other than moving entire mech backward. Maybe grinding down ball stop and face of Spider both. But not really interested in all this right now.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just finished installing the character ball trap fix:
firstly, I have to apologize to whoever made the detailed instruction sheet, I didnt use it.
installation took 8 mins:
lean pf against backbox with power off.
go find drill gun plus either a 12" magnetic extension for a 1/4" magnetic hex bit, or 3 regular 3" x 1/4" magnetic extensions stuck together plus a 1/4" magnetic hex bit (this is what I used to get a little flex out of the extension).
push one of the mechs thru the PF about 2".
put a dab of titebond on a screw and put it into the tool bit. place loaded gun on top of metal computer box.
wiggle the plastic insert from JJP around a bit in the front space of the mech until is right. Raising and lowering the mech helps to position it or push it in. angled ledge toward the pf edge, rounded gap toward the character head.
from the outside, reach in with a finger and press the insert firmly towards the edge. this is important, FIRMLY ON THE EDGE, no visible gaps seen from the other side.
grab your pre loaded gun and carefully mount the screws without stripping them out. there is plenty of room for the tool bit just push it in to the side of the wires.
do this 4 times.
I started with the spider mech it seemed the easiest.
it was super easy. works surprisingly well.
go into test check the up and down motion of the mechs
start a game check each mech and mech switch with a ball.
make any adjustments at this time.

#7972 5 months ago

Thanks for the info!

The spider and all beasts do work correctly and register hits front and back.

You were right about the pitch! I increased it today from 6.7 to 6.93. Averaged four reads across playfield. Huge difference! Plays awesome now!!!
I also waxed playfield today. Maybe that helped. I tried increasing flipper power to 26L and 27R, but was getting air balls. Dialed it back to default and it's perfect. I am able to backhand both ramps and right hole so far. Also, cradling is way better on both flippers! No more floaty B.S.

#7974 5 months ago

OK,
I was already happy, but I'll give it a whirl. You guys are the Masters!

Here is another adjustment I made today!
DSCN0090 (resized).JPGDSCN0093 (resized).JPG

#7977 5 months ago

Thanks!
At some point I'll get to this when I get bored.

I can't find the spring steel ramp flaps for Hobbit. I would like to replace mine. They've curled up off of the playfield.

#7980 5 months ago

I read somewhere that they included a tool for that?
I guess I'll ask them..
Thanks!

#7983 5 months ago

Thanks again!
I will do that.

#7984 5 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

While you are at it you may want to install Cliffy protectors on the holes as well. Since you will have the ramp out of the machine to swap the flaps it is a good time to add the protectors as well.

LOL!
I was just looking at them (Cliffy's) for that reason!
I always figured hole protectors were not necessary until they were worn. Why cover the rim when it looks good? But I do like to protect the shooter lane straight off.

#7986 5 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

My experience was that after pulling the ramp out once, I didn't want to do it again. Glad to have this maintenance task in my rearview.

I believe I will do it just for that reason!

#7988 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

You'll swear so much you're neighborhood priest might bust down the door yelling "the power of Christ compels you".


Thanks so much for the heads up! Great advice!!

#7990 5 months ago

Installed Mezelmods gold trough lighting and gold back board lighting tonight! Beautiful!!!! I did cover the center 8 back board LED's with Gorilla tape and I didn't get the striping effect on ramps.

Next I will be installing their gold under cab lighting as well. I will post a pic when done for those interested.

#7991 5 months ago

I also raised the pitch to 7.2 averaged across upper, center and lower playfield and bumped up the flipper power as per 'pinballinreno's' advise.
Game plays awesome!!!!!!!!! This pin rocks now.. So much fun!!
Thanks for all the help everyone!

#7993 5 months ago

Here are some pics of the Lermods (purchased from Mezel Mods) lighting mods including the trough, back plate and yellow under cab basic lighting kit. The 8 center LED's are covered with Gorilla tape to deduce ramp striping. The LED stripes on ramps show up in pics a lot! But not to the eye nearly as much.
DSCN0094 (resized).JPGDSCN0095 (resized).JPGDSCN0096 (resized).JPGDSCN0105 (resized).JPGDSCN0108 (resized).JPG

#7997 5 months ago
Quoted from pineal:

Killed Smaug again last night for the first time in a couple months. Such a supremely satisfying shot!

I still haven't figured out how to do that yet??

#8000 5 months ago

Thanks for the video!!!
It would be a total rush to achieve this I'm sure!!!
I did set the game to 'Prevent Overlap with Multiball' already, so now I'm off to practice!

#8004 5 months ago

Ramp flaps and Cliffy's ordered.

- Any suggestions on what type of rubbers are best to install up there on upper playfield where hard to change? There are white ones there now. I want them to last.
- Also, did anyone try Super-Band post sleeves or Mini Post Rubbers. I already have green Super-Bands on flippers. I love how they never get dirty.

#8005 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You will need to rivet the new flaps on. The rivets are included in the kit.
But the rivet tool/clincher is not.

I'm not sure if I understand correctly?
Are the correct rivets for the tool/clincher included in this kit, or just the pop rivets? I do want to order the tool and do it correctly.
Thanks..

Added 160 days ago:

They do include both pop-rivets and the proper 1/8" tubular clinch rivets that you need to do it the right way.

#8008 5 months ago

Thanks!
But damn! Close to a hundred bucks for this thing!
Hope I use it more than once LOL!

1 week later
#8013 5 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

My Hobbit is bolted to the floor. I've played a bunch of Deadpool and it's a fine game but not on the same level as Hobbit IMO.

Ditto!

#8030 5 months ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

I've done some searches (here and Google) and I'm not finding instructions on how to change out the drop target springs that were part of the update kit. Can someone point me to a location where that is explained? Do I have to remove the entire drop target assemblies? I finally had one break so I guess it's time to do the spring upgrade. Always afraid to bang around in a pin without knowing exactly what to do. Thanks

I don't know how one could change out a spring without removing the mech? I tried and just ended up dropping spring down in machine several times and swore a bunch!
Removing the mechs is super simple to do. Just unplug the wires and unscrew mech from playfield. You will have to cut and later replace some 4" plastic cable ties (get a package at hardware store). Just make a mental note of where they were. Once the mech is out, you can change all the springs in a few minutes with no hassle. It's also a good time to inspect the plastic ledges that the drop targets rest on. If these are starting the crack apart, then you will know about it at least. Mine were all good.

#8032 5 months ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I changed all of my springs quickly and easily without removing any mech.

How did you manage that?? I was all thumbs trying to reach up in there and hook the end of spring to drop target. I can't imagine how that would be easier than removing the mechs.

#8034 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Hemostat (roach clip) and fine needle nose with a Stanley bent pick to assist.
15 min job at most.
Difficult without some tools.

OK.
That explains it! I do not own hemostats. You would think after all these years I would have picked some up.
Ordering now!

amazon.com link »

#8040 5 months ago

Is TABA more difficult than the other 3 wizard modes?

1 week later
#8058 4 months ago
Quoted from jfrazie:

Does anyone have a nice picture of the side blades in place? I have side blades on all my machines but can’t make a decision on which is the best for hobbit. Any standout preference

Which Hobbit do you have?
I had these on my Smaug Gold (link below). They are beautiful. But, the first set was destroyed by the playfield because it is just too tight and even though I have another set, I am reluctant to put them in. I did just install felt on the sides of playfield, but I will at least wait until I'm done installing the new ramp flaps and Cliffy's before I reinstall them.
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/hobbit-treasure-trove-gameblades

#8060 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

If you have art blades installed you need the side art protectors at pinball life.
They are cheap and perfect protection.
I use them always.

Thanks!
I've never seen those before. I will give them a try.
I own you a drink for all the help!

#8062 4 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I like those the best so far too, but wish they were more reflective.
I killed Smaug for the first time today - what a rush! Got through all 3 Arkenstone modes completing 2-3 stages in each of those. Got my new GC score with it at a little more than 4.3mil. This game is great, super great code and modes, had it for over 3 years, and isn't going anywhere!

Man! You're better than I am!

#8064 4 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Maybe not. I did the Smaug kill shot with the upper flipper though and that felt great! I just had a real good game. Previous GC score was 3.4mil and the rest of the 8 high scores are between 2 and 3mil.
With all of the shots in the 5 JJP pins (some really tough), I think playing all of them helps to make you a better player on the other 4 pins. Juggling the multiballs and aiming at specific shots at the same time is a great challenge. Quite often you aim it right, but it hits another ball. Playing multiballs on this pin has helped me with Pirates and WOZ multiballs. Sometimes you just need to fling a few someplace to bounce around for a bit and get them out of the way to aim for the jackpot shots. Probably trying for the DI sim card shot (very tough) helped me to finally nail the Smaug kill shot from the upper flipper.
I need to keep mixing up what pin I play and not just stick to trying to concur 1 pin - that helps me improve overall. Anyway, sorry for rambling on …

No, I enjoy listening to other people experiences learning to play better. That what Pinside is for! I agree mixing it up on different pins is huge for improving skills. For instance, after I got my ACNC (tough game) my Start Trek scores soared. It's paramount to learn to control the ball better and shoot accurate on ACNC! Hopefully my Hobbit scores will also get better. I just haven't had much time since I got it to focus on playing it a lot.

#8066 4 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

Coming home from a comp will see me practicing things i have seen, and my scores reflect that.

Even watching the pro's on YouTube helps. You do pick up on things and become more conscience of what you are doing wrong.

1 week later
#8089 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

If you have art blades installed you need the side art protectors at pinball life.
They are cheap and perfect protection.
I use them always.

I used the pinblade protectors today. They work great on all my machines! Highly recommend!!
Thanks for telling me about them!

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

1 week later
#8094 4 months ago

Why would it crater like that? Looks like it burned through any tracers around it.

#8098 4 months ago

Well I got around to installing the new ramp flaps and Cliffy's. And you guys were right! It was a PITA! I like how I had to remove the 5 bank drop target assembly so I could remove the VUK assembly so I could get at the post nut under playfield to install the Balin Cliffy. I followed the advice given to me here and the job went extremely well! The 1/8" diameter semi-tubular rivets would not seal tight up against a block of hard wood so I used the butt end of my bench vice. I used the HANSON HT-174 HAND RIVET CLINCHER. There was a little flattening of the rounded top of the rivet, but it looks fine. I replaced all rubbers and waxed as well. Only thing left to do now is install beast door ball stops. amazon.com link »
WIN_20200128_15_12_04_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200128_17_05_32_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200129_19_00_07_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200129_19_02_07_Pro (resized).jpg

#8099 4 months ago

On my ACNC all the servos are fused by one central fuse. It blows before the electronics crater. It my be a good idea to install an inline fuse for this.

#8102 4 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Nice work!
I still need to do this myself, the Cliffy's I mean. Any standout advice?
Did you put mylar in the shooter lane as well?

This!!

Quoted from CLEllison:

When removing the ramp, DO NOT pop the sensors off the ramp. Unplug the sensor connectors from the board underneath and label them and pull them through the playfield. Be careful when handling. Drill pop rivets out, install new flaps and reverse process. These sensors are just stupid ridiculous to try to get to snap back on.
If you're going to do a set of Cliffy's, do it all at the same time. Cliffy's absolutely suck ass to install on this machine (specifically Balin). You'll swear so much you're neighborhood priest might bust down the door yelling "the power of Christ compels you". DO NOT play your machine for 24 hours after. Let the adhesive setup/cure.
And lastly, while the ramp is out REPLACE ALL RUBBERS and make DAMN sure both hole backstops are tight and the posts in the pop bumper area are also tight.

No, I didn't put Mylar in shooter lane yet. I will do this when I do the beast door ball stops.

#8106 4 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Thanks man!
Cliffy sent me this guide someone had done. Seems pretty effective!
http://www.purcellvillepinball.com/HobbitLE2016.html#Cliffy

Ya, that's a good guide. I didn't get the inlane Cliff'y protectors.
But make sure you clean the wax off around the holes before installing the protectors. There is epoxy on them that needs to bond to the wood. Use Naphtha to remove the wax.

#8111 3 months ago

Apparently, my multiball game leaves much to be desired!

#8113 3 months ago

Spot light replacement bulbs..

amazon.com link »

1 week later
#8144 3 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

The only 5 star I've ever finished was Riddles in the Dark. Took that Into the Fire level 4 for something north of 750,000 points. That was an epic ride. I always try to start a mini wizard mode with at least a 3 star mode completed. 1/4 value with a 1 star and 1/2 value with a 2 star stings too bad.

What is meant by 'mini' wizard mode??

#8147 3 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

One of the 3 arkenstone modes. There and back again is the final wizard mode

OK, I thought they were just called Wizard modes LOL!

#8150 3 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I consider each of the three a mini Wizard Mode. The only true Wizard Mode in the game is There and Back Again.

So by this logic I can assume that all pinball games that have more than one wizard mode really only have one 'Wizard' mode (being the most difficult to get to and accomplish), and all the other wizard modes are 'Mini Wizard' modes?
I ask because this has confused me in the past.
When I'm bored, I ponder such things!

#8164 3 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I also added a small 1 inch block of mylar right in front of the captive ball.

Good idea! I'll do that too!

#8170 3 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Hmm. Any easier way to get at this nut, when moving the VUK? This bugger is way back under the drop targets...

Edit. Got it....though it fell into the subway, of course!
[quoted image]

I just removed the drop target bank. It's easy. Just unplug it and cut a couple tie straps and remove the four screws. I hate dropping screws! Especially into the subway..LOL!

#8195 3 months ago
Quoted from dug:

I know this has been answered before, but I can't find it.
What is the production date when Hobbit's shipped with the upgrade kit installed by the factory?
Thanks in advance.

Machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need the updates as they were installed at the factory.

#8222 3 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I replaced mine....and it was a bit tight but I was able to lightly hammer it out from the bottom and it came out no problem. I was able to push the new one back down from the topside of the PF and push it flush to the PF with a small amount of resistance, and then screw the nut back in to place to hold it.
Note: I didn't use a washer on the topside.

Mine has 3 washers on the topside under the ball.

#8246 3 months ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Has anyone tried plugging a guitar amp into the headphone jack. Would it work.

What you are suggesting is plugging the pinball machine's headphone output into the guitar amps input. I don't see why you can't. But there is a big difference between a high fidelity stereo audio system and a live audio, mono guitar amp in terms of sound quality. This has to do with audio compression and signal balancing and you also get phase cancellation if a stereo signal is not properly converted to mono which further degrades the signal quality. You can try it, but you probably won't like it. Just add an external sub. Or connect it to a kick ass home stereo system.

#8279 88 days ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I I investigated further and found that simply reseating the connectors fixed the missing colors.

I have been hearing this a lot on Pinside. These RGB lights are very prone to this connector loosening issue causing the single color. So this is the first check to make whenever this occurs...

#8281 87 days ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

I've been thinking about selling my Hobbit LE, but don't know if my wife would let me as I would like a Dialed in.....Game only has about 120 plays or less. HUO.

Definitely a downgrade in art package and theme, but Dialed In is a great playing game.

#8288 86 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

I'll tell you this about Hobbit. You are IN that game. The way they made the game, it feels like you're doing all the things they say you're doing. You're fighting smaug. You're escaping from all these perils. You have to save people, search for answers. You are very much on this adventure. This isn't just some theme they slap on the game because pinball games "need a theme." The integration of theme is amazing. BM66 like.
One game I love: Stern Star Trek, is awesome. But those modes? I don't FEEL like I'm doing those things the game says. I'm just playing it. Still love the game. But I'm not in the game. Not the Hobbit. Damn fine coding and theme.

I agree and I have Star Trek. ST makes it on flow and intense multi balls and the killer warp ramp shot! But Hobbit is in a whole higher class as for as depth and objectives and theme integration. I haven't played DI enough to be an authority on the subject, but if you like art, depth, theme integration, Hobbit is king.

#8297 84 days ago
Quoted from Snappy:

Looking for a little pricing advice. Would you buy a Hobbit Black Arrow edition for 7k? If not, what price would you offer? Has the following description:
"This pin is in great shape and was purchased in late Dec 2018. Game was new in the box when it arrived. I had a local tech go through it carefully so everything is working fine. Game only has 139 Plays and is running 3.10 software. Cosmetically there are no issues."
Also, wondering what questions you would ask the buyer? This would be my first pin.
Thanks!

It sounds so noobish when they announce number of plays! This is ubiquitous now. It is pointless because there is no way to prove this given that any code update erases the stats.

#8301 83 days ago

I payed $6700.00 for Smaug in Michigan with Radcals and plastic protectors and blades. I would have payed $6800.00. But it didn't have the updates either. And I see a lot of people asking $7,000.00 for a HUO Stern Prem, not a LE which would be more typically.

#8307 82 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

I paid 7400 (shipped) for a gold smaug edition with a few upgrades (protectors, mods), lightly used, if this helps gauge things.

I should clarify that I think Smaug is definitely worth more than I payed with these mods when compared to Stern LE's. I just had a budget of $6800.00 to spend and got lucky. This pin is a master piece and I think it is ridiculous that it doesn't rate higher than it does. This makes no sense to me other than the fact that it is not a great location game because of the depth. This is also the case with my Alice Cooper. That game is under rated because of the tight shots, but it is super fun and addicting and beautiful. I think these modern high end pins are just too good for the wild now. Stern has the take on the location scene with their Pro's for sure!

#8308 82 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

Still baffled by what "light the horn" means.

Quoted from KingBW:

You mean "light Thorin"?

LOL!!
Trying to read that display while playing is a challenge!

#8320 79 days ago

I would take the time to install an inline fuse on these Smaug servos while you're in there so this doesn't happen..

a066a41688b67c645b50b4708b6d20eab0f0c320 (resized).jpg
#8324 78 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I can only guess that there was some kind hang up going on inside the servo motor

I'm not sure about these servo motors, but motors in general can have bad spots in the windings that can cause this to happen. If it stops on a bad spot, it will not start again until you move it off the bad spot. I have had flakey servos in the past when I was into R/C airplanes.

#8325 78 days ago

A an aside, I still have a lot of left over R/C parts and they have come in handy several times for pinball repair. Those small machine screws and nuts you can't find in hardware stores and other odd ball parts as well. It has saved my ass more than once.

#8334 73 days ago
Quoted from xsonics2k2:

Since we are all going to be under lockdown soon, if not already, how about a competition for best score / accomplishments on Hobbit over the next few weeks?

I wish I could, but they may put us in trailers and work us 12 hr. shifts for 14 days straight and then quarantine us on location for the next two weeks while the next shift does the same. Two 2 man shifts back and fourth (only 4 of us out of 5 volunteered). Sounds bad, but they are willing to pay double time. Big money if it comes to that. We run a natural gas compressor plant. The spice must flow!
What pin to buy next with extra money? Provided great depression II doesn't start.

1 week later
#8356 64 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Not that I know of
I have replaced DWARF and MAN in mine over the last 4 years.

Damn!!

#8393 61 days ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

Anybody else have a problem with mental or physical stamina while playing this game? Personally, I often have marathon games and after a long while, I have trouble maintaining my attention on the objectives and just start spraying the ball towatds lighted inserts and targets. Also, my hands start slipping on the lockdown bar and my legs get spongy.

Play worse!

#8417 58 days ago

That whole rating system is prone to all sorts of problems.

#8423 57 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Hobbit is still getting crushed vs TS which is an absolute joke. Just way too much hate out there for Hobbit from the early days of code.
All and all a good thing for me as I was able to pick mine up for a great price.

Exactly why I have one!
Thank you haters.

#8425 57 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

While I agree that may be why it is being beat, I'm not even mad. The Shadow is an awesome game. Both awesome pins.

Yup, it's near the top of my list as far as 90's pins.
But the translite has to go!
Aurich...Still the best!
I have his full kit on my ST pro. It's awesome!!
The-Shadow-B2S-1038x779 (resized).jpg

#8439 55 days ago

My vote is in..

#8446 52 days ago

Whirlwind beats Hobbit!
Now I've see it all.

#8449 52 days ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

It’s just an indication of how few people have had the opportunity to live with the game. IMHO you really need to own this game.

This is true for a lot of games. But many of the guys hating, have large collections and should know better. But this is the Pinside psychopathology on display.

#8451 51 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

Who cares. Whirlwind is garbage compared to hobbit. Let people keep under apreciating this amazing game.

Right!
It's like comparing a Lamborghini Huracan to a Ford Fiesta!

#8454 50 days ago

Well, round four of the 'NOTHING MADE AFTER the 90's is WORTHY' bracket is up and running. LOL!!

#8491 44 days ago
Quoted from coloradodan:

I found one on Craigslist and am picking it up as soon as it's safe to! I put a $100 deposit down... THE PRECIOUS WILL BE MINE!!!!! I'm adding this to a Star Wars Comic Art Premium table. So completely different machines and styles... I'm psyched to add some variety to my gameroom!

Star wars is a great game! Best action button in pinball! And Hobbit goes great with my Stern ST and ACNC. I too like variety in my tiny collection. Goal is one more. Down between ATM LE or Met Premium.

#8495 44 days ago
Quoted from coloradodan:

Ahhhhhh, the goal is always one more. I'm getting married next month, better not push my luck too much yet! Also, my game room is our old formal dining room, and its getting pretty full!

I didn't start buying pinball machines until I was 50.

#8497 44 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

It's a year since i bought my first and i have 17. Hobbit was my second.

Holy cow!!!!!
You really got the bug!
You got some nice pins too!

#8518 41 days ago

So, my goblin pop up was sticking part way above the play field. I removed it and noticed that one of the little screws (8-32 x 3/8" hex head) was missing. There are two screws with a metal plate that hold the head to the mech. If one screw comes off, the head slants to one side which mine did (notice last picture). I could see wear on the ear where it was rubbing. The hardware store didn't carry these screws with the hex head, which you need because you have to reach inside with a small box wrench to tighten it. So I placed an order on Marco Specialties for a various assortment of these hex head screws. And no, I couldn't find the damn screw in the cab! But I did notice that there were pieces of plastic broken off around the bottom rear of the head. I looked on JJP's site and noticed two of the four beast heads are out of stock and they want $36.00 /ea for them!!!! I sent them an email asking if and when they are going to be restocking them. I don't need to replace mine yet, but I'm assuming they will need to be at some point.
WIN_20200421_10_54_35_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200421_10_55_19_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200421_10_58_55_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200421_11_00_07_Pro (resized).jpg

#8521 41 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I had to replace my warg due to it breaking - I am sure it will happen to all of them sooner or later. They are hollow - I wonder if they can do them solid instead to help long term?
So I am going to get a new set (all 4 of them) for future needs as well. If you find out when they will get them let me know

Yes. I will post their email response ASAP.
I wish I was good a carving. I would carve these heads out of solid hardwood of some type. Then paint and CC. $36.00/ea! They're still hollow and will just break again. I would try pinballinreno's moldable epoxy first before paying that price. Hell, maybe we should remove them all now and fill with epoxy before they break apart.

#8524 41 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

One of the problems is that they hang on a leaf switch.
If they are too heavy they wont respond to the ball.
So, theyre hollow.

Ya, I considered that. So it looks like future Hobbits will get ping pong balls with faces drawn on or something like that. I assume JJP isn't planning on stocking them forever.

#8534 38 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Shouldn't these actually be pretty straightforward to print, and then paint?

For 3D printing, someone has to do the cad design. That's technical and a lot of work AFAIK. And I can't do it. Someone in the modding community needs to provide a replacement for these because JJP is not going to do it for ever.

#8543 37 days ago

Ditto!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mine is bolted to floor. It's the only pin I ever considered to be. Wife agrees too.

#8550 37 days ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

Hi Everyone,
I'm the proud new owner of a Hobbit Smaug Edition. The game looks and plays great most of the time, but has an issue where it sometimes randomly crashes during a game and reboots.

Well, this is above my pay grade, but on my Sharkey's Shoot Out (Stern White Star System), the random resets were caused by dried out and cracked IDC connectors. I replaced several of the ones under the fluorescent light bulb (which dried them out) with Molex connectors and Trifurcon crimps. Problem solved. So check for bad IDC connectors (bad connections).

#8552 37 days ago
Quoted from screaminr:

We all love The Hobbit it's all good .

No, some people think Whirl Wind is better!

#8562 36 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Balls are likely magnetized and not rolling down the ball trough right. New balls. And get one of these - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809
slides in the open end of the ball trough and lays on the bottom. Prevents divots and helps with magnetized balls.
LTG : )

Magnetized balls caused this ball trough problem for me on my ACNC. It drove me nuts until I changed out the balls.

#8564 35 days ago

For everyone interested, Jersey Jack finally sorted their beast head inventory problem. They now have all the heads available in stock to order. I just placed an order for one of each head.

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/The-Hobbit-Parts/?range=31%2C60%2C66

#8579 30 days ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

Got it working. I checked the bios version of the new board and it was pretty old. I downloaded the latest bios from MSI website and then flashed the bios. Rebooted and it started up perfectly.

Which mother board did you install?

#8582 29 days ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

It's the H81M-P33 motherboard.

That's a hell of an upgrade from a single core Celeron! But it should boot faster I would think?
https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/H81M-P33/Gallery#lg=1&slide=0

#8584 29 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A faster SSD helps the boot times.

Does Hobbit use an SSD already? I never looked.

#8595 28 days ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

I'm wondering if it was old and if so, I wonder if I had flashed it to a new version if that would have fixed it also. In any case, the new board is working great.

No biggie!
Now you have a new MB. Update the bios on the old one and keep it for a spare. That's what I would do.

#8632 19 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

Congrats. Out of three jjp games that I own, Hobbit is my favorite. Stupidly underrated game due to people looking at the playfield and assuming it has nothing to shoot at.

It's their loss.
That's why it's the best kept secret for great value buy in pinball right now!

#8649 18 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Best tip i could share about learning it is to have a wingman calling the shots over your shoulder if you are ever having a real good game. You never really have much time, specially in multi's) to look at the main screen, and i've never looked at the samll screen while playing at all.
It needs to be someone with some understanding of the game but they can be telling you what to shoot for and you can muscle memory the shots.
'Mystery is lit'
'Just need left hole for extra ball' etc
Obviously can't do it in comp, but harmless at home.

So true with this game!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1 week later
#8671 12 days ago

You guys are better than me. I still haven't killed Smaug. But with the new ACNC code and the new Deadpool I bought, and all the work I've done on these pins, I haven't been playing Hobbit enough. But I still suck anyway!

1 week later
#8717 2 days ago

I'm sure this is why a lot of people didn't think this game played well and was too floaty.

#8728 1 day ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

S I was on a conference call for work so I couldn't see the sequence of events.

You can see it here...

#8735 1 day ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

So do you guys/gals feel like the market on this title has finally plateaued or do you think that this title will continue to drop in price? And if you think it'll drop more in price where do you see the bottom?

I don't know. None of this makes sense to me at all. I thought collectors looked for games with awesome assets and theme integration like Hobbit has. Everything about it is top notch and it gets shit on. I think it's mostly because people set it up wrong. But I thought pinheads who own machines would know better. Apparently not. How can LOTR rate so much higher than Hobbit? Blows my mind! I got 7 grand into my Smaug with radcals, plastic protectors, pinblades, full set of Cliffy's, ramp and trough and undercab lighting, and updates done. No way in hell I'm ever selling it for under $6500.00

#8737 19 hours ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

I have hopes, that this will become equivalent to what happened to so many titles before it. Twilight Zone is a PRIME example. The game did horrible when released and OPS were selling them dirt cheap. Now it's an overpriced legend.

Yup!
I do believe that is the case with the Hobbit. It very likely may be a latent legend!

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