(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

4 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (4 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (4 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (4 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (4 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (4 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (4 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (4 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (4 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

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#410 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

So I've been having some odd air balls when shooting the left ramp...so much that the ball would bounce entirely OVER the ramp at times. I thought it was the ramp flap, so I spent some time adjusting that. Still happened. Thought it was catching the "O" lock button somehow and launching so I adjusted that so it sits lower and requires less pressure to depress. Still had air balls. So I looked closely at the entire ball path and noticed something odd...the flipper rubbers seemed to be sitting low on the flipper. I took a close look and they were seated fine, but they still didn't look right. I grabbed some new flipper rubber and compared. The stock flipper rubber is about an 1/8" SHORTER than a normal one. I have the pf protector installed as well, so couple that little bit of extra height with the 1/8" shorter flipper rubber you get air balls. I ripped that crap off all 3 flippers and replaced with regular ones. The whole game feels better now and no more air balls!!
I recommend every single Hobbit owner to do the same...replace the flipper rubbers!

I noticed that too so I replaced the rubber on mine. Right now I'm running PBL Super-Bands.


#417 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I like your flipper bats. They look great. Please let us know which ones they are and where they can be found.


Quoted from Pimp77:

Are those the longer style flippers?? Not sure you need those if so.

Not planning on changing any of the other rubber yet. The white is fine.

They are standard length flipper bats. I bought a set of a few different colors when BAA released them years ago. I have red transparent on my Spiderman.

#419 4 years ago
Quoted from oopsallberrys:

Got the call today that my Hobbit SE has shipped! Ordered on December 3rd, 2012 or 3 years, 5 months, 23 days ago. I am hoping to have it for the Memorial Day weekend.

Congrats! You are really going to enjoy the game.

#484 4 years ago
Quoted from bdaily1983:

Not sure how well this shows up but here it is.

Yours look way too high to me. Mine are all the same. I would recommend adjusting the leaf switches underneath the playfield.


#495 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Does anyone know if a leaf adjustment tool is required to lower the rollover targets?

No, you can easily do it with a flat blade screwdriver if you have experience.

#507 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

1) Waxed playfield with a different wax this time, Mill Wax playfield wax & cleaner- let it dry and then buffed it out

Did you know Millwax isn't wax? You unfortunately just put silicone all over your playfield.

#517 4 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

amazon.com link »
So you are saying that we should just clean with novus and use a real wax? (if so what wax would you recommend)?

If you clean your game regularly you could use Novus 1 to clean the field and a good caranuba wax like this one @ Amazon (which I use personally):

amazon.com link »

I wouldn't even recommend Novus 2 for regular use because it is a mild abrasive but of course there are much worse cleaners you could be using. It's just not my go to choice for a game that is maintained regularly. Novus 2 is great for new to you games that are dirty and haven't been taken care of.

I think I clean my games every 100 games or so, give or take a few, depending on how the game looks.

#519 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I honestly don't care what its made from, it works great on the playfield and I doubt it will hurt anything - its designed to wax pinball machines. I'm happy with it..

If that's what you like go for it. I wouldn't buy a game knowing that someone used Millwax to maintain it. The name itself is misleading. Why put wax in the name if it doesn't contain wax?

#521 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

What is wrong with it and what are the reasons you wouldn't want a game thats had it on there? I guess I don't understand what the big deal is. Enlighten me please, I'm listening

It's pretty simple really. It has no wax (not even 0.00000001%) and offers zero protection. Its flammable (contains petroleum distillates). It contains silicone so you can never clearcoat the playfield ever again. It's false advertising in a bottle.

Here is a great post by Clay Harrell:


There is a lot more out there if you search. Is your game going to blow up? No Could you be using a better product? Most definitely!!

#546 4 years ago

If you guys are ordering the purple plunger spring you will not be happy, it is **way** too strong. I have the orange spring and tried that one first. You only have to barely pull back the plunger and it flings the ball really hard. It you fling it too hard it hits the top ball guide and won't hit the top of the dwarf targets. It made it near impossible to hit the lower skill shots with any consistency.

I have a few other springs and I installed one with less tension than the orange but more than stock. It was better I thought at the time but I have decided that it's still too strong. I went back to the stock spring and I now understand why they went with it in the first place. I never go for the dwarf back skill shot and even if I do I can easily hit D through R using the stock spring.

I should have trusted that JJP designed the shooter with the stock spring for a reason, now I know. Luckily it is very easy to reverse so worst case you are out $1. Try it out and report back, I'm curious what you guys think.

#549 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Hooked it up to my Polk external sub and the sound is awesome vs without.
Loving the game, 114 total plays on it now. I just had my second reset on it today though, that's 2 out of 114 and in my opinion, two too many. Ive reseated everything and it seems it's software related.
Anyone else having reset issues? If so, let's post the error messages here- here's mine from today
Also, I had emailed JJP technical
Support about the issue last week, about 4 days ago, and no response. My history with WOZ support has been that email and opening tickets is worthless, but phone support is good so I'll try that avenue next.

My game hasn't reset once so far.

#563 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

It sounds software related since it didn't occur before 1.10. I bet we see a fix with the next software release.
I know a couple owners have said that they think the reset issue has been related to inconsistent voltage to the game / its devices. I got my game last week, running 1.10 and have not had a reset. My game is plugged into an APC surge protector which is then plugged into an APC voltage regulator (as are all my games).

Interesting theory there. My pins are connected to a line conditioner.

#585 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Yes this is normal - mine does it too, I don't think it's supposed to activate each time, or maybe the ball does so fast it doesn't have a chance to capture it sometimes.
I keep my flipper power up very high though, as I like to hit the ramps from any flipper. I think my settings are 25 for left flipper, 28 right flipper- this way I can hit left ramp w/ left flipper and right ramp w/ right flipper no problem. But I do get air balls, hoping the game will settle down because I love the flippers cranked up on this game

My game catches the ball every single time it goes there for a lock.

Has anyone with this behavior recorded it in a video? I am curious to see this happen and what else is going on at the time.

#594 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Mine is hit or miss. I think the ball just goes too fast sometimes. It's doesn't effect anything.

I can confirm this is true. Here is some video evidence:

Of course once I start posting it's not happening to my game it starts happening. This is the first game I fired up tonight and it missed 50% of the time.

I do think the ball is going too fast for the magnet to catch the ball as it is currently programmed. I would imagine there is a set delay when the ramp entrance opto is tripped when the magnet is fired and it is calibrated for a slower moving ball. I also imagine the pulse is short to avoid leaving the magnet on for too long. The length of time the magnet is engaged could be changed. I agree it isn't causing a real problem. Actually, I think it may be better to go straight in versus the magnet catching it, at least until I can get some mylar installed in the drop area

I think the reason why I haven't noticed it much is because I prefer hitting the right ramp with a backhand when trying to lock a ball. I feel that I am more accurate with a backhand than a shot from the left flipper. I bet if I go back into the numerous videos I have posted on YouTube I will find more than a few times this has happened in the past and I just didn't notice it.

#620 4 years ago

I haven't witnessed any audio clipping in my game. It looks like some of you are running custom settings. I modified mine slightly:


#633 4 years ago
Quoted from GameJunkie:

My legs on my Hobbit are 2" shorter than my WOZ. My WOZ legs are 30.5" and my Hobbit 28.5 inches not including levelers.
So witch legs are off? Can someone check theirs?

My Hobbit legs are 28.5".

#704 4 years ago
Quoted from scasey:

Mine has velcro holding it on.

It isn't velcro from the factory, it is double sided tape. The manual says it is VHB adhesive:


#737 4 years ago
Quoted from VT8man:

Is anyone having an issue with the mini monitor? Mine has pretty much stopped working. I removed it from the game and checked the connections, and is seems when I bend the wiring up behind the monitor it gets a signal, but once I put it back on the game it's lost. When the pops fire it occasionally displays, but then nothing. I checked the connections and it almost seems like it's something with the ribbon cable inside. Anyone else have this problem?

The cable to the book LCD is a standard female to female VGA cable. It sounds like you have either a loose connection or the VGA cable is bad. You can run a new cable between the PC motherboard and the display to see if that resolves your issue.

#738 4 years ago
#745 4 years ago


Into the fire is super AWESOME!

#784 4 years ago
Quoted from dtowndobe:

Looks like I'm going this Friday to get the game!
Now, how exactly to get that bastage in the house?!! I'll be getting an appliance dolly tomorrow!

Have fun with that!

I had to take the head off and playfield out to get mine in my gameroom. Luckily it comes apart easily!

#799 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Why is there a bar graph showing stronger at top, and weaker at the bottom if it's just a "push the button whenever you like" mode?
Is that for a different mode? I thought it was for an element of skill to time the push, kinda like controlling the plunge for the skill shots.
The ball never shoots anyplace useful when I push the ring button, so I don't really understand how it works.

Not in that mode. The mode Flashback is a good example. You are firing the huge arrow at Smaug like in the movie.

#802 4 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

I have 1.10
Pretty sure I read something that said I needed a version above that in order to do a Delta?
Quote from JJP site:
"Delta updates install only what has CHANGED since the last running version on your game. Delta updates are released when only game code has been modified.
Maybe this is talking about WOZ?

I did a delta from 1.10 to 1.21 with no problems.

#812 4 years ago

How big is your thumb drive? I tried a 64gb and 32gb one and they weren't recognized. I use an 8gb one and it works perfectly. Same issue with my Sterns too.

Only insert it after the game tells you to, don't leave it plugged in. It lights up because the drive is getting voltage but that doesn't mean it's recognized.

#816 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I use a 120GB solid state drive in a USB caddy for the update no problem- I think he might be a Mac user and the drive is formatted in Apple's file system instead of FAT

That's totally possible if he altered the original format of his USB stick from exFAT. If its formatted as MAC OS Extended (any version) it won't work.

That is interesting you can get yours to mount, the larger SanDisk USB drives I have will not be recognized. Next time there is an update I will have to test all of the sticks I have.

Quoted from LTG:

JJP pins are a little different. For delta update, go to the game turned on, plug in the USB stick, then go to Utilities and do the update stuff.
LTG : )

Here is what I have discovered. Each time I have performed an update I first have gone to backup my settings. After they are backed up I run the update process. If I perform the backup and go right to the USB update section and I haven't removed the USB drive before selecting it the game doesn't recognize the drive. I am assuming what is happening in the back end is the drive is being unmounted right after the backup. The only way to re-mount it is to remove and reinsert the USB drive.

I have noticed that you do not have to have the USB drive plugged in before going to the update section of the menu. For example: I go to Full Menu>Utilities>USB Update and the game will tell you on the screen to "Insert USB/Thumb drive containing update data". You can insert the USB drive at that time (not before) and it will discover the device and perform the update.

Also worth mentioning is the settings update functionality doesn't backup the settings into a date/time specific folder, so if you run the backup every time you update like I do then you have to remove the backup file created in the pinballbackup folder first from the USB drive, otherwise it will be overwritten. The game does warn you about this.

#835 4 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Have had it since October. The drains were not as bad as they are now. But I actually think I may have had it set up higher. I had some heavier coasters under the back legs and took them out....hmm. I'll go higher. Iam also going to try and lower the rollovers. Changing the ball direction way too often and not for better. Factory on the posts, might as well bring them in and see if I can keep this ball in play longer.
Also going to have pin exorcised for any demons.
I agree the center post rubber does not bounce like the center post in woz. Thks PF

How did you get one back in October?

#838 4 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Sorry.....was March (23rd).....picked up my mmr in October (both from jjp). Getting old I guess.

I was just thinking how lucky you were

#858 4 years ago
Quoted from TouchingEvil:

Ok If i can get Le i will buy that one but dont think its possible. One thing i do know is that i gonna buy one.
I have heard that they break easy ? I just gonna have it in my mancave

I really think the LE is an excellent value over the standard. As was stated by others the gameplay is exactly the same as the LE so that is a huge positive for the standard game, but if you put value in the powder coated legs and cabinet armor, the molded barrels on the pop bumpers, Invisiglass, shaker motor and the audio controls on the coin door then I would recommend going with the limited. It's $500 more and you get a lot of value for that extra cash.

Reach out to the distributors. I bought my game from Automated and was lucky to get one very quickly.

#913 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

My family is loving our new hobbit

I think Into the Fire is my favorite mode so far! It is so much fun.

#922 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I noticed mine has mylar around only 3 pop ups. The upper left one doesn't have it. Is this the same as everyone else and should I put mylar around it myself?

My game has Mylar on all four beast pop ups. I would contact JJP, that piece is cut special for that area.

#941 4 years ago
Quoted from indybru:

Looking ahead on purchase can you slide nib down stairs in the box?
I have 12 stairs to basement straight shot down. Other option hire a guy that has escalara.
Btw played TH at a local venue with my neighbor and his son we had a blast.

Definitely just be prepared it is super duper heavy!!

#1005 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

The blue spring will be too strong.

I'm glad I went back with the stock spring on mine.

#1019 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I'm going to contact Marco before they send my order to change to a lesser strength spring.
Update...I bumped my order down to a medium spring. I'll try that and report back. Thanks guys.

Try it and do what makes you happy!! They are very easy to swap out so play around and have fun.

#1028 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Anyone find a way to get the roving inlane skillshot with decent success? It's so nearly impossible that I never even try it anymore.

I've been able to soft plunge to the right in lanes successfully with the stock spring.

#1071 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I found one screw belonged to the knocker. Here is the big one left along with another small one. I thought big one would be easier to locate it's home, but still no luck

Big one should be for the transformer. Look under the cab and see if each t-nut has a screw in it.

1 week later
#1159 3 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

There is a new wireform then? Not seen any info about this

I honestly think I would rather keep the original wireform. I do not like how the extended piece isn't welded to the loop at the end.

1 week later
#1408 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Also, does TH have a plate were the WOZ had one for the AUX out? If so, one could remove this plate to gain cable access to inside the cabinet.

It has a plate which can be removed. It is secured with four screws.

#1410 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I have an le that came off the line early this week and is shipping now. Anyone know if the ramp flap fix will be on it? That's a tough one for me to fix later because I don't have riveting tools or skills. Seems like a pita

It seems to me that the "ramp flap fix" is just a rumor. No actual fix exists.

1 month later
#1862 3 years ago
Quoted from system11:

I wonder why JJP didn't put mylar all the way around the trolls - after 4 games I have scratching to the clearcoat behind 3/4 of them.

I responded to your post on the other thread you posted to and I agree about putting Mylar all the way around. I imagine it was put only at the bottom for easy installation? Just guessing.

I will be installing Mylar at the top of my pop ups. I just checked and all four are digging into the clear after 220 plays.

#1870 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Another plus for the pf protector.
Edit: and the Mylar is all around the "trolls" anyways.

I didn't have a choice on the protector because I bought distributor stock that was ready to ship. I still don't think I would want it because it is bound to capture dirt underneath and start looking bad over the years.

On my game the mylar is only around the bottom and extends 3/4 the way up the sides but isn't protecting the top:

DSC_0663 (resized).JPG

There is quite a bit of clearcoat damage on my game. It's not into the art thankfully.

The milky areas are where the clearcoat has been shaved off by the flaps

I took one of the flaps off so I can make a stencil and cut some mylar, so my game is down until I can get that done.

Quoted from system11:

I'm asking support about this, perhaps it was changed between models. Mine is a standard edition made in May.
Your videos by the way are the one of the reasons I have a Hobbit, so thanks (I think )

My game is definitely an early build. It was built on 3/10/16.

I'm glad the videos helped you make the right choice I really enjoy playing this game. Again, THANK YOU for pointing this out! If I knew I would have installed mylar day one. The damage isn't visible and its under the flaps (I keep telling myself that LOL)

I haven't ordered the update kit yet so I will ask about the mylar as well.

#1937 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Holy smokes! That is crazy. At least it's not visible.

Yeah that one hole turned out to be the worst, the rest weren't bad. I have to give a shout out to Victor @ JJP. He sent me a set of the top mylar pieces for free in the mail which I just received today! I installed them tonight so now I can play my game again

I am very happy with the support I have received from JJP.

#1952 3 years ago
Quoted from system11:

Well mine is still offline until I can get the rest of the trapdoor mylar but the list of problems has grown a bit. Just diagnosed the lamp problem, someone at the factory cable tied the lamp board B to C cable so tight that it's actually damaged it internally. Just tested with an old cat5 cable I had and bingo, solid lamps again near the back.
However I still have problems with Smaug - it would really help if some owner(s) could play their game for 15 minutes and let me know if the smaug rotation motor gets really hot. Mine had the whole bracket hot to the touch. Also if you switch the game into test mode from attract, does the Smaug left stop switch show as active? Mine works, but it seems to park just off the switch as if it can't really hold it there and I wonder if this results in a stronger hold voltage or something crazy like that. Or maybe they just burn hot as the sun as standard?

Sorry I meant to check this for you The last time you asked. I got my Mylar installed yesterday so I will play for a while tonight and let you know re: the motor.

#1960 3 years ago
Quoted from system11:

Damn that was fast - my last JJP ticket took nearly 2 months.

I haven't received my update kit yet but I did get the mylar. Definitely call them.

I tested my Smaug motor temperature this evening. At idle after letting the game sit in attract mode for approximately 15 minutes, the temperature with my infrared heat gun was 91°. This was measured on the bottom of the motor itself. If I powered off the game the temperature dropped quickly, say ~ 3° in 5 seconds. After playing a few games it went up to 93° by the time I got the playfield up where I could register it and the temperature dropped quickly as expected.

It's hot to the touch but not hot enough that I would be concerned. I would have to keep my finger on the surface for 2-3 seconds to start to really feel the heat.

Regarding the Smaug switches if I power on the game, the game goes into attract. Then I go right into setup into device tests and select the Dragon (SMAUG) Head Test. The "Dragon (Smaug) Limit - left" switch is active.

I would ask JJP about that as well.

I'm glad I lifted my playfield because I found a few of those drop target white plastic screws and lock nuts on top of my PC chassis lid. I also found this:

What is this??

It looks like it is something use to pipe light. I can see the injection molding circle on the edge of the piece. Time to scour the manual for info.

#1970 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

could be parts of the clear plastic u-channel from one of the pop-up mech leaf switches

Quoted from LTG:

30-0055-00 Pop Up Character Switch Locator.
LTG : )

Quoted from LTG:

Same part on MM Troll : 30-9808 Troll Guide
LTG : )

Awesome guys, thanks! Now that I know what I am looking for I found out that the part broke on my spider mech. I will have to reach out and buy some from JJP directly since I can't find that part (by the part #) on any pinball parts sites.

I may as well buy extras.

Quoted from system11:

Is that 91F or 91C? I know that sounds like a silly question... I'm going to need to buy one of those heat guns, I've got no way to measure it. Definitely doesn't park correctly though.

Whoops, it's in Fahrenheit.

I bought this infrared heat thermometer to check the temp of my oil when frying The one I ordered was only $17 on Amazon:

amazon.com link »

I have also used it to measure the cold air coming out of our A/C ductwork. It is a very handy tool.

Quoted from system11:

My Smaug is stopping correctly now even though I haven't touched anything, I'm assuming a cable being tied wrong is to blame.
However, the motor after 20 minutes was up to 99 degrees on the back surface and takes 5 full minutes before the temperature starts to drop at all.
Also noticed the printing on my playfield isn't the best - pictured is the worst bit by far - those lines to some degree run all the way down. A little bit of grain visible on the right catching the light too. It's not like the sheet of perfect glass that my WOZ resembles.

Maybe the Smaug base plate isn't aligned correctly on the stepper motor shaft or has come loose? I would definitely focus on getting the base plate to actuate the left limit switch.

My game doesn't have that printing issue.

#1973 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Same part on MM Troll : 30-9808 Troll Guide
LTG : )

I found this part @ BAA:


1 week later
#2016 3 years ago
Quoted from Rick432:

I'm wondering if anyone who has the playfield protector installed has had any problems with damage along the back edge of where the trap door meets the playfield.
It seems possible because the edge of the protector is not perfectly flush with the back edge. At least not as flush as applied mylar would be. It also seems possible because the protector is essentially kept in place by gravity, so it might have enough play to not offer good protection against heavy trap door activity, which is unusual and so the protector might not behave as expected.
I think adding mylar under the thick, but RELATIVELY unsecured and imprecise playfield protector, might accomplish adding protection to those high impact areas. I also think that it might not be the most difficult surgery in the world. But no one likes to stick mylar onto their playfield unless they're pretty sure it is necessary. Still, better than damage, of course.

With the playfield protector the flap can't mechanically touch the playfield. The flap is pretty large and it doesn't bend, so if even the front of the flap touches the protector it won't hit the playfield.

The edges of the flap are what cause the damage and it overlaps the hole by quite bit.

1 week later
#2150 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlosopher:

Yeah it is weird that it is rated so low in the top 100. Weird to the point of wondering whether it is a legit rating. No way all of the negatives at the front end of the voting are still legit. And why is there only voting on one edition of the pin when most Sterns are split into voting on pro vs LE?

I'm not rating Hobbit until the code is closer to completion.

#2163 3 years ago

I really wanted some plastic protectors installed so I went with the Laseriffic green fluorescent protectors. I love the look! I am hoping a complete set for the rest of the game will eventually be made.

ACC3F005-24E8-4075-ADC3-566E071463F6 (resized).jpg

I've got to fix one of my beasts this weekend so I can get some play time in. I finally got the parts I need from BAA.

2 weeks later
#2262 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So, nobody seemed alarmed about my beast mech breakdown, but I think there is a serious design flaw and I think it will affect many people. Here are some pics. You
Should probably all look to see if this is happening. It definitely wasn't from wires shifting during shipping. They looked to be zip tied right into this spot. And the mech definitely smashes the wires into the new glowing bar that prevents the ball trap.
Not trying to stir the pot. Still love my hobbit, but I think you should all look. It would be helpful to me if someone posted a pic of where their wires are routed because I'm not sure there's a way to avoid this.

Yeah that sucks. I would say thank goodness it was that side of the wiring! I will have to check mine just in case.

#2263 3 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

Can anyone tell me when the diverter comes down to make the ramp a loop?

Only time I know for sure is in the Moon Runes mode.

#2276 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I agree. Most likely every machine if the wires are held by the same method.
In looking at my mech's again while I was doing the flap fix I noticed that every single one of them had a degree of cuts through the wire insulation (red box in the pic below).

I had actually stopped it from occurring accidentally some time ago by using a metal washer to stop the mech from becoming jammed due to the other beast fix.
By adding the washer it actually makes a gap into which the wire has somewhere to safely sit.
Pic below has the mech in the fully up position (green box) showing how the washer creates the gap (red box).

I just checked mine and none of my wires are even remotely close to being hit when the mechs raise and lower. I am having a hard time figuring out what the wires are being cut on.

Here is a video I just took of me actuating the mech:

Nothing contacts the wires.

#2282 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

You are missing the beast fix kit. When the kit is installed it puts a large piece of plastic in the point, so perhaps that is the difference?
I'd have to take another photo from a different angle when the pf is up again to see if the plastic wedge can connect. From memory it can, which was why I thought the washer was a good idea.
Your pin was an early build that was shipped prior to the beast fix being done in the factory?

You are exactly right, I forgot about the beast fix kit. I still haven't received mine yet.

My game was an early March build.

#2283 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

To anyone that has done the ramp flap fix, are you finding you are getting massive numbers of ramp airballs now?
Every game I get 2-3 airballs which throw the ball in all sorts of weird places.
I'll have to see if they were the early flipper hit ones. ie. left flipper up left ramp.\
edit : seems as if this is normal when you have normal ramp flaps

I have been getting airballs off the left ramp since the code update. Not blaming it directly, it could just be a coincidence.

1 week later
#2382 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Maybe I'm jumping the gun since it hasn't even been a week...but now that I've had a ton of play on the game and have gotten a hang of it and the rules - I really have to say, I LOVE this game! The presentation, choreography, rules, gameplay and sound is really fantastic...and the music is just delicious. I bought it on a whim, mostly out of the curiosity of wanting to have a JJP pin to jam on at home...figured I'd play it for a few months and then move on - but I'm already feeling like this is a keeper for me - which is surprising considering I wasn't a fan of the layout or toys....but once you play it and really get to know it - man, Keith really did it again, just like LOTR...and used every nook and cranny of this playfield in clever and fun ways...he's made a deceptively 'whatever' playfield just pop with life and fun.

It's definitely more rare, and it has a cool attract animation that's only on the Smaug Edition. I just had a choice between the two, and I went with Smaug as he was my favorite part of the trilogy. Others have told me they like the LE more. At the moment they seem about equal in value.

I agree with your opinions

The sounds are used to great effect in this game. My favorite so far is when you are playing into the Fire and when you start making consecutive blue shots the music raises an octave every hit. That part gives me chills!

#2393 3 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

These work better because they can "lock".

I have many of these and I found that I don't like the fact these make impressions in the wire sheathing when you heat the wires up to solder them.

1 week later
#2452 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Every time I start a game, a few modes automatically trigger before plunging the ball. It's always different modes to. Anybody else have this issue? I'm assuming tight switches triggered by drop targets resetting.

I've seen this on multiplayer games only so far. Player one loses the ball and when player 2 is up it automatically shoots the ball.

1 year later
#4284 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Just popping in to say that I would love to kick whoever designed the beast mech cover/spring/clip system squarely in the NUTS!!!

Quoted from Goronic:

I have to have my wife or son help when I need to remove it or put it back on

Just put a magnet on top of the flap to hold the spring on when you remove the hairpin clip. I've pulled my beasts out plenty of times at this point and this trick has definitely helped.

If you don't have a magnet, rotate the end of the hairpin clip to the outside of the flap where it can easily be grabbed with needle nose pliers. With one hand, hold the flap and the spring. Remove the clip with the other. Then grab the spring.

1 month later
#4435 2 years ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

As a follow up to the barrel lights...my son designed and printed a cup holder for the Hobbit. Really turned out well! Like this one a lot. If anyone has interest we will get the file up to Thingiverse if you want to print your own.

Very nice! Also my beverage of choice

2 weeks later
#4493 2 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Hello? What is the name of the forum?

It's just called Jersey Jack Pinball. Login to Google groups and click on my groups. If you don't see it then you don't have access.

1 week later
#4547 2 years ago
Quoted from xbloodgreenx:

My Smaug mouth motor appear to have gone kaputt. Anyone figure out a fix, other than a complete assembly swap? I spent a couple hours trying to move the mouth and get the servo to re-engage. I can get it to work a couple times after moving the jaw a little side-to-side and hearing the servo motor make some noise, and then would fail again after a few more tests.
Most times it doesn't seem like it's engaged to the servo motor at all, the mouth just hangs open and there is no resistance when manually opening closing the mouth.
I guess my next step is trying to perform the Calibrate the Servo Horn from the manual. Has anyone had success in this?

My Smaug mouth has been dead for months. I bought a new Futaba servo but haven't had the time to work on mine yet. My original servo moves freely.

1 week later
#4624 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I thought the newer Hobbit machines were supposed to have improved beast mechs; after only 12 games, my orc mech stopped registering hits
After removing the mech, I saw just what I expected to see, a cut wire. I soldered it back together, but I know this is a temporary fix since the issue is in the design.

So what exactly are the improved beast mechs?

3 months later
#5203 1 year ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Sure. But ordering parts for another build run is different than ordering parts for longevity and support, no?
He's right, parts have been out-of-stock on the web site for a long time.
So yes, concern is there as far as long time planning and support?

I could see buying spares for my game so the concern is warranted. The mouth on my Smaug has been broken for a year now and the only part I could source on my own is the servo. I'd love to be able to buy just the PCB.

1 week later
#5231 1 year ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

I'm talking about the small plastic ridges that are riveted to the main bracket to hold each drop target in the up-position. Part number 30-0024-00, item number 22 on page C-26 / C-27 in version 3.2 of the manual.
Afraid I don't have a picture at the moment. The game is on location, and I'm at work (the real one). Will try to shoot a picture next time I visit it.

I don't believe this was redesigned or improved. I broke one of these black ledges on my DWARF assembly the first month I had my game. My game was down for a month until I got a replacement assembly. Here are some pictures of the broken part:

IMG_4469 (resized).JPGIMG_4472 (resized).JPG

The ledges should be horizontal so the lip on the target has something to hold onto. If it's not there the drops just fall back down.

#5232 1 year ago

Picture with Notes...
IMG_4472_Notes (resized).jpg

5 months later
#6524 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Holy crap, glad mine is working acceptably

Mine has been dead for the past year. Someday I will get around to fixing mine.

#6564 1 year ago

Curious if JJP started screening the backboxes again on the later Hobbits versus using using a sticker. Are the BAs all screened?

3 weeks later
#6686 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I just received my Lazeriffic Topper (looks awesome) from Mezel Mods and am having some installation issues. I have it mounted up on top of the pin but cannot get the lights to work. I put in a ticket with Mezel Mods but wanted to pick your brains too. The topper plugs into a blue power supply within the pin. I know it's the correct one per the instructions, and have verified it works as I have my backbox and trough lighting kit (which also looks very nice and came from Mezel mods) plugged into the power supply. My issue is the power supply for the topper appears to be pinned out wrong. The plug and receptical are male/female on the plastic part and are obviously supposed to fit together but the metal pins inside are both male. Am I missing something here? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

In my experience female crimp ends go into the connector in your last picture.

1 week later
#6714 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I've had a few PMs about how the dragon comes apart or goes back together, so here is a quick video I made as I was putting the dragon parts back on the frame. Hopefully this helps some random internet stranger 5 years from now.

Thanks for making the effort to put this video together! I am certain it will be of good value to someone in the future, random strangers included

1 week later
#6755 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Maybe sand down that protector a bit until a ball goes thru it.

I have what looks like the same protectors on my game and that is exactly what I had to do, although my stuck ball was occurring at the wireform ball exit.

1 week later
#6813 1 year ago
Quoted from Stags6969:

Is there a setting to prevent you progressing to the next wizard mode until you have finished the current one.
I’d really like to finish one of the wizard modes, but usually get to the 4th level of ITF and then drain. If I then qualify for another wizard mode I’m then onto BE without completing ITF.

I think you’d have to be a super human pinball player for a setting like that to make sense. The option for it would be cool but I’d bet very few people would take advantage of that setting long term. I can barely get to the second multi ball consistently on three balls

2 months later
#7087 1 year ago
Quoted from JonCrox:

Anyone know where I can get one of the lockdown bar plates to replace the decal? Can't find them here anymore?[quoted image]

A few distributors have them in stock:



#7128 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Could you share pics w/ pop rivets?
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced tool for using solid rivets on ramps? Looks like there are ~clamp-like tools out there that might work?


I love this tool. Shipping is quick and the tool is very well made. I like using it more than my press. I would stay away from pop rivets at all costs.

3 weeks later
#7205 1 year ago
Quoted from JordanB:

I'm in the market for a rivet press to do this sort of work, any suggestions? I'm in Canada, but can wait on an online order...


#7212 12 months ago
Quoted from JordanB:

Thanks for those suggestions!
I like the idea of a twisting clamp that I can use rather than having to pound a rivet. Not that it's not a fine option, I'd just worry about clumsily breaking a plastic or munching the rivet.
For the pintonka one, is 2 3/4" deep enough for most ramp flaps? I presume so, considering it's hailing itself as designed for pinball application...

It fits everywhere I have tried it so far. I bought it because the rivet press I have won’t work for certain situations (I have the press shown in pinrestore.com) . I did my TAF main ramp with the pintonka and it worked perfectly. It also worked great for the TAF plastic assembly at the back with the telephone on it. My press wouldn’t do either of those. I like it because I have no worries about hammering too hard and breaking anything.

2 weeks later
#7268 11 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

40 days later my Hobbit is back up and running. Time to put up some numbers.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Have a happy birthday! This is a great game to spend some quality time on.

7 months later
#8220 4 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Will do tomorrow! Couldn't grab onto it for shit with pliers......

I recommend Vampliers


#8244 4 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

These look amazing! I might try them down the road...thank you for the recommendation! Have you used them yourself?

Absolutely. I was doing a playfield swap last year and I had a brand new hex head screw break off in the playfield. They saved the day!

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