(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,930 posts
  • 520 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 minute ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 192 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#653 3 years ago

I've been loving hobbit so far. One thing I wish it was easier to tell when the lockdown bar button lit for what purpose. Postponing something is much different than cashing in a score and the back glass isn't always so easy to look at in frenzy of play. I think it'd be great if the lockdown bar button was a different color for cashing in points vs postponing a mode/lock.

Got some TrueColor protectors added today

image_(resized).jpeg

#664 3 years ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

Where are they from?

Sorry guys, they are posted here:
http://pinballbulbs.com/products/hobbit-pinball-true-color-protectors
Unlike the other protectors, they're clear in the middle so wont green color bomb your plastics. Only glow green around the edges.

And our dark room brightening kit is posted here:
http://pinballbulbs.com/products/hobbit-pinball-led-add-dark-room-brightening-kit

While maybe not as needed as the WoZ kit was, it still provides decent improvement through center playfield and flipper area.

2016-06-14_(resized).jpg

Finally, the flipper rubbers are green superbands from pinballlife. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3172

#680 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I absolutely love it. Hadn't played it in a bit due to a hand surgery (still recovering from it though) and this was one of a few games I played on it today.
I love my other machines (TWD and MET) but they feel so much different then TH- not only from a build quality standpoint, as TH is clearly the "Bentley" of pinball machines, but just the overall package from sound, lighting, LCD, and gameplay. TH truly feels like what an $8K+ machine should feel like. The code is going to make it even more of a winner over time.
I still can't believe I almost skipped over it completely after reading all the negative BS on Pinside- I realize all the time the people here favor old school Bally/Williams machines (just look at the Pinside rankings!) and Stern's, and for some reason there's a JJP hater bandwagon who loves to trash anything they do. It's a huge winner in my opinion, and it's almost guaranteed I buy whatever their game #3 is after this. This is coming from someone who sold a WOZ pretty quickly after buying it too.. TH is so much better..

I also sold WoZ pretty quick but love Hobbit so far. Im not sure about game 3 as I'm not a lawlor fan (mainly due to his software which he usually has written himself by his own teams). But Hobbit is definitely a winner.

#688 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

Interesting point... I have been assuming that Keith would be doing the code which would have made it a near certainty for me unless the theme was horrible. If Keith is not doing the code I am not so sure.

Yea I don't think it's Keith. "Pat lawlor designs" usually handles the code which is why pay lawlor games all feel like they have the same basic rule set. But we will see. Even when lawlor did games for stern, he had his own teams do the software. One of those guys lives near me and was explaining it to me.

#722 3 years ago

On the powered subs, I think the hobbit really doesn't need one. It comes with a decent enough 8" sub and the lepai amp has separate sub volume and crossovers. There's a great chance that some of these were not shipped very well adjusted. The lepai amp and this 8 inch sub can crank out floor pounding bass especially using the large cabinet which causes the sub to resonate much lower than it was designed. The limit should be the rattling in the cabinet rather than the bass output here.

#725 3 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

When Smaug talks. It reverberates the whole basement and sounds like the damn dragon is in the room with you.
.

After I adjusted the amp, the stock one does this also. The whole floor vibrates in my feet when Smaug talks on ball locks.

#730 3 years ago

Sorry guys I might be wrong here. I got rob zombie, full throttle and hobbit into my shop in the same day and I think the other two used the lepai amp. I can't find it in hobbit. So there may not be any amp to adjust after all. Mine has a ton of bass though so I still don't find the need to make any changes.

#750 3 years ago

Yea I also never get extra balls.

My outlanes are on the max open settings. The ball times aren't super long on this game. I found say game of thrones to be longer. Since code 1.2, I've broken a million several times.

1 week later
#859 3 years ago

Hobbit is very easy to get right now. There are usually 2 for sale on Pinside. One just moved to sale pending. You can always buy the ones at shows. This is why I didn't preorder. I have my hobbit here that I just picked up. Many early preorders are still waiting.

#870 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

I have a problem with nudging the machine when it's screaming towards the left outlane, missing, and then in turn the kickback misses the ball and there's no ball save. I wish there was a ball save when it's supposed to kick the ball back in play (at least when it's in single ball play).

Yes. This is extremely irritating and ruins a good game. Same if somehow the post is suppose to catch the ball but it manages to get past that and drain out the outlane. No ball save there either.

#901 3 years ago
Quoted from goldant:

Has anyone else noticed their ramp flaps keep making their way up? I've got a playfield protector with the playfield set at 7.0, and the flippers set at 27/27. When the ramp flaps are recently pushed back down, the ball sails up smoothly, and you can barely make the shot from right flipper to right ramp...etc, if feels about right. As the flaps start to lift the ball starts to jump it's way up the ramp and it feels a lot less smooth.
Is there any kind of trick to keeping the ramp flaps down? I almost wish I had a straight piece of metal for each screw to hold down the ramp flaps.

Mine are also starting to fold up but at this point it's very minor and not impacting the ball at all.

#918 3 years ago

Is anyone else having troll flap problems? Every few games one of the troll flaps gets stuck up and the glass has to come off to pressure back down. Usually occurs if a ball gets stuck in troll when its dropping. After the ball search runs, the troll flap is stuck about 2 cm up in front.

This game could never be on route due to this. I guess Hobbit was only intended as a home use game?

#921 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Hey mark. Do you have access to a 3d printer? You can print the fix for this
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1575390

Hey that's pretty awesome. Thanks. Are there any install instructions or good photos of what it looks like installed?

#924 3 years ago

I wonder if a black 3D printed version will block any of the troll lights. I'll investigate this weekend. Thanks again.

#939 3 years ago

On the curling ramp flaps, I loosened the screws on the ramp, lifted the ramp and bent the flaps straight. After this, I reattached the ramp but did not tighten the screws very much just barely snug. The ramps will curl if you crank the screws back down, but if they're loose, they seem to stay straight.

#969 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Does anyone have issues with the lock 2 LED not flashing the correct color in attract mode? Its only off or green during the game so it works fine.but during attract thr entire PF would be pink and that 1 led is blue.
The board revision is 1.1

No, not at all. I bet your red is out on that LED board. I think they're a combination of red, green, and blue leds.

#976 3 years ago
Quoted from Tastysirloin:

Hi guys , Can anyone help me wanting to purchase some Mirror Blades for my HOBBIT SMAUG LE which design suits STERN BLADES OR B/W BLADES ?
Big thanks for any help .

Williams mirror blades work great. I have them in mine.

Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Surely it wouldn't be difficult to code the 3rd flipper into the game?
Could you code that hitting Smaug with 3rd flipper is like worth a triple hit or something? Or hitting Smaug only registers with 3rd flipper?

How is the game suppose to know that the upper flipper is what was used?

#983 3 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

How about if a very quick combo timer is written into the code between a made upper right orbit switch immediately followed by a made switch to an upper target or that left hole in single ball play?
The timing between these two switches would have to be super quick to eliminate the time it would take to travel down to the lower flipper.
Keith did a similar thing in LOTR with the Witch King mode writing code for a brief combo based on a short timer.

I think this already exists for the Thorin shot pinpimp listed.

#986 3 years ago

I installed the troll fixes I made today and so far so good. The translucent white passes the light well enough and looks cool as it also lights up.

image_(resized).jpeg

If anyone wants these, we will print them for you and you can get them here: http://pinballbulbs.com/kits/hobbit

The price covers the hassle to print these, assemble the screws, package them and labor to ship them. We are not getting rich making these.

Also had one test game with these installed and it was the game of my life.

image_(resized).jpeg

#988 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Hey. What screw size did you use?

#6 1/2" with hex head. It's pretty hard to get the parts installed without stripping all the trolls out. I used the hex head screws on one of the super long Klein magnetic nut drivers from pinballlife (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1887) and was able to install all 4 without removing the trolls at all.

#1009 3 years ago

The stock spring is fine. It's intentionally weak like the tz Spring due to the several very close skill shots. My game is at max possible slope also.

#1015 3 years ago
Quoted from sebseb12:

Thank you for this answer.
I've never had this problem.
When the ball is caught, the pinball machine detects it and troll goes back (to release the ball)

Most the time if the ball gets caught, the ball search will run and release it. The problem is that this can cause the troll switches to bend out of alignment and also cause the troll flaps to get into a weird state that requires pulling the glass off to pop them back into position. These fixes help prevent the ball from getting stuck in the troll since the hole where they get caught is filled with these fixes.

#1036 3 years ago

I had a mega game and got to into the fire 3 times in that game. I'm probably done playing until you can progress further into the game.

#1088 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Do these install from above or below playfield?

Below

#1090 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Nice to see you back KPG!
Can you supply pics of the finished work?
Also can you give details on the degree of difficulty on installing this modification?
Problems, hassels etc.
My WARG has a black eye from gulping so many balls down its trap door.....

Go to the page linked above and look under installation suggestions.

2 weeks later
#1286 3 years ago

For the ramp flaps, what about loosening the ramps up and putting some foam to support the ramp under the ramp flaps?

#1300 3 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Strange I haven't had any problems with the flaps at all. I got 200 plays now.

Mine is also fine since I loosened the ramp screws but it was never that bad in the first place. Perhaps the ones that curled bad are never going to be the same

1 week later
#1464 3 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

alright! I did it! Pulled the trigger and put a deposit. I wonder how far back in the line I am?

Why get in line at all? Just buy one of the many that are available now on Pinside and other places.

2 years later
#5968 1 year ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I like this product also - but I removed it because it is a bit too large and required filing down to make it fit properly. If they can have it a bit closer to the size of the plastics they are protecting but a tad larger it would be a much better product.

Hey, I have these in my hobbit and they're fine. You have to loosen the bolts that hold the plastics and move them slightly away from the ball hang and tighten it back down and they're fine. Another friend has this on a game on route also no issues.

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