I've been loving hobbit so far. One thing I wish it was easier to tell when the lockdown bar button lit for what purpose. Postponing something is much different than cashing in a score and the back glass isn't always so easy to look at in frenzy of play. I think it'd be great if the lockdown bar button was a different color for cashing in points vs postponing a mode/lock.

Got some TrueColor protectors added today

image_(resized).jpeg

Sorry guys, they are posted here:
http://pinballbulbs.com/products/hobbit-pinball-true-color-protectors
Unlike the other protectors, they're clear in the middle so wont green color bomb your plastics. Only glow green around the edges.

And our dark room brightening kit is posted here:
http://pinballbulbs.com/products/hobbit-pinball-led-add-dark-room-brightening-kit

While maybe not as needed as the WoZ kit was, it still provides decent improvement through center playfield and flipper area.

2016-06-14_(resized).jpg

Finally, the flipper rubbers are green superbands from pinballlife. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3172

I also sold WoZ pretty quick but love Hobbit so far. Im not sure about game 3 as I'm not a lawlor fan (mainly due to his software which he usually has written himself by his own teams). But Hobbit is definitely a winner.

Yea I don't think it's Keith. "Pat lawlor designs" usually handles the code which is why pay lawlor games all feel like they have the same basic rule set. But we will see. Even when lawlor did games for stern, he had his own teams do the software. One of those guys lives near me and was explaining it to me.

On the powered subs, I think the hobbit really doesn't need one. It comes with a decent enough 8" sub and the lepai amp has separate sub volume and crossovers. There's a great chance that some of these were not shipped very well adjusted. The lepai amp and this 8 inch sub can crank out floor pounding bass especially using the large cabinet which causes the sub to resonate much lower than it was designed. The limit should be the rattling in the cabinet rather than the bass output here.

After I adjusted the amp, the stock one does this also. The whole floor vibrates in my feet when Smaug talks on ball locks.

Sorry guys I might be wrong here. I got rob zombie, full throttle and hobbit into my shop in the same day and I think the other two used the lepai amp. I can't find it in hobbit. So there may not be any amp to adjust after all. Mine has a ton of bass though so I still don't find the need to make any changes.

Yea I also never get extra balls.

My outlanes are on the max open settings. The ball times aren't super long on this game. I found say game of thrones to be longer. Since code 1.2, I've broken a million several times.

Hobbit is very easy to get right now. There are usually 2 for sale on Pinside. One just moved to sale pending. You can always buy the ones at shows. This is why I didn't preorder. I have my hobbit here that I just picked up. Many early preorders are still waiting.

Yes. This is extremely irritating and ruins a good game. Same if somehow the post is suppose to catch the ball but it manages to get past that and drain out the outlane. No ball save there either.

Mine are also starting to fold up but at this point it's very minor and not impacting the ball at all.

Is anyone else having troll flap problems? Every few games one of the troll flaps gets stuck up and the glass has to come off to pressure back down. Usually occurs if a ball gets stuck in troll when its dropping. After the ball search runs, the troll flap is stuck about 2 cm up in front.

This game could never be on route due to this. I guess Hobbit was only intended as a home use game?

Hey that's pretty awesome. Thanks. Are there any install instructions or good photos of what it looks like installed?

I wonder if a black 3D printed version will block any of the troll lights. I'll investigate this weekend. Thanks again.

On the curling ramp flaps, I loosened the screws on the ramp, lifted the ramp and bent the flaps straight. After this, I reattached the ramp but did not tighten the screws very much just barely snug. The ramps will curl if you crank the screws back down, but if they're loose, they seem to stay straight.

No, not at all. I bet your red is out on that LED board. I think they're a combination of red, green, and blue leds.

I think this already exists for the Thorin shot pinpimp listed.

I installed the troll fixes I made today and so far so good. The translucent white passes the light well enough and looks cool as it also lights up.

image_(resized).jpeg

If anyone wants these, we will print them for you and you can get them here: http://pinballbulbs.com/kits/hobbit

The price covers the hassle to print these, assemble the screws, package them and labor to ship them. We are not getting rich making these.

Also had one test game with these installed and it was the game of my life.

image_(resized).jpeg

#6 1/2" with hex head. It's pretty hard to get the parts installed without stripping all the trolls out. I used the hex head screws on one of the super long Klein magnetic nut drivers from pinballlife (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1887) and was able to install all 4 without removing the trolls at all.

The stock spring is fine. It's intentionally weak like the tz Spring due to the several very close skill shots. My game is at max possible slope also.

Most the time if the ball gets caught, the ball search will run and release it. The problem is that this can cause the troll switches to bend out of alignment and also cause the troll flaps to get into a weird state that requires pulling the glass off to pop them back into position. These fixes help prevent the ball from getting stuck in the troll since the hole where they get caught is filled with these fixes.

I had a mega game and got to into the fire 3 times in that game. I'm probably done playing until you can progress further into the game.

Below

For the ramp flaps, what about loosening the ramps up and putting some foam to support the ramp under the ramp flaps?

Mine is also fine since I loosened the ramp screws but it was never that bad in the first place. Perhaps the ones that curled bad are never going to be the same

Why get in line at all? Just buy one of the many that are available now on Pinside and other places.

Hey, I have these in my hobbit and they're fine. You have to loosen the bolts that hold the plastics and move them slightly away from the ball hang and tighten it back down and they're fine. Another friend has this on a game on route also no issues.