mine is supposed to arrive late june early july, i wonder what the code will be like by then.
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Sammy that really sucks call your distributor and see if they can warranty or at least get wholesale on a new sheet. i get my glass polishing stuff from these guys http://www.granquartz.ca/ but its close to 600.00 by the time you get all the hand sanding pads, polishing pads , and tinoxide .
Quoted from Banker:THSE was delivered today. No issues out of the box. Plays great!
lucky you banker , mine isn't getting here until oct/nov
Quoted from dannunz:Has anyone done metal sling axes yet?
i saw these amazing hobbit collectible weapons/axe for sale in cancun that had amazing detail but that was long before the designs had been finalized for the sling axes. i am going back this sept and will pick up and post pics but they are pricey .
finally got my game! and i love it , although i do have but's the shooter rod spring sucks! and my kickback when you use the ring only gets its halfway across the PF when i get it on the highest setting , is that normal?
Check these out!! http://www.noblecollection.com/the-hobbit-an-unexpected-journey
I bought the thorin, Gandalf and taureil openers and will order the thorin key set to dress up my machine , found them on holiday in Mexico and they come from Spain really decent quality will post pics in the machine when I get home in two weeks
http://www.noblecollection.com/ItemImages/Large/LET%20HB%201207.jpg
Hey fellas , was just south in Mexico and found these cool letter openers I had bought to use as mods for my hobbit machine. The scale is a little big but the quality is stunning! They are made in Spain , later on I will try to find the manufacturer
trying to update to 2.0. download the file (US version) open unetbootin , click on the disk image and the {...} button, find my download file , ect , have done a full format prior also. machine is off, insert usb in to the left back of coin box area and turn machine on and nothing what am i missing??
Quoted from LTG:Are you doing the Full Install ? Or Delta ?
Instructions for both are on the JJP website.
If you are doing a Full Install, the way you posted what you did, if nothing happens, nothing is on the USB stick. Or USB cable isn't working.
LTG : )
thanks LTG, maybe my stick is nfg i have tried many times but here is a screen shot of what is on the stick
mine came with 1.9 and i have never updated and see 2.0 and 2.01 , i assume i need to do a full first for 2.0 then a delta for 2.01
reno , thanks, i am using the same kingston stick also . i added a hobbit_update folder as suggested but when i used unebutin to transfer the file it doesnt allow me to pick it as a destination folder .
Quoted from Goronic:but I am wondering if I can get a more durable wire to replace it with - a stronger tougher one.
Anyone have any suggestions on a better (higher quality) wire that I should use?
lamp cord , that yellow transparent wire they use on lamps, i used that on my star wars ( atari arcade) and my T2 (midway arcade) as the controls take a beating and kept breaking, no problem since.
Quoted from Ashram56:So while I'm dismantling smaug head, I found quite a few issues.
I dare say that 'designed for maintenance' is not the first thing that defines 'the hobbit' pinball there are quite a few very fragile wires connecting the RGB PCBs, just next to screws that you need to remove to access the drop target mechs.
So three questions :
- one of the wire on this RGB connector is cut. It will be far easier if i can unplug the connector, however I dare not pull too strongly, there seems to be a lock mechanism which i can't figure out. Any pointer?
- one blocking plastic which 'locks' the drop target in up position is broken and rotates around the rivet (see picture of the part). I assume that to access it I need to remove the drop target, and this is done by removing the small blocking ring on the ring behind the target?
- the arkenstone flasher was not working, checking the wire the pin has been dislodged from it's header. It's the same type of connector than what's on the RGB board it seems. Likewise, I can't unplug it... And I don't want to pull too much. Also, can I hope to reinsert the pin in the header? Or do I need a new header, in which case what is the reference?
[EDIT] Figured out how to remove the drop target in front of the mech. But the plastic part is damaged, I'll attempt some superglue repair. Otherwise I'll have to print a 3D part to replace it and replace the rivet... Lovely...
[quoted image]
there is a service plug in the bottom of the cabinet plug something into it and se if you have power into the cab first. your plug on the back could be loose, wire worked it way off the on/off switch, start with simple first. you kinda need a multi meter to test fuses properly
I want to remove my PF protector, it looks terrible! Do I have to shim or adjust the lock rollover switches?
Quoted from Goronic:When I removed mine I noticed that there are small rollover protectors on each of them. Once I removed the protectors it was perfect, no other adjustments were needed.
thanks!!
i just recently updated the code, didnt realize there was a new code as i have been playing gnr and ts4 a lot . what a different game with the new code!! so good!!
Quoted from SLRage:What improvements have you noticed? What code were you on before?
not sure what the previous was, i had not updated in over a year. seems to be more call outs, more video assets in the modes, even into the fire seems smoother and less glitchy. previously it seemed the mode where they sing about blunting bilbo's knives would come up on every ball, and not so much anymore. after a lot of time on GnR it feels slow now so i will remove the pf protector this weekend and add more pitch, i really havnt put many plays on it prior , maybe 200, i should look at total plays and see.
Quoted from bjorg:Never mind, noob mistake. I measured the glass inclination. The playfield is at 6.6°.
LOL!! good catch! that must be crazy slow and floaty, i didnt even realize there is a subway under there and i have a smaug version from preorder, i i havn't lifted the PF once, i guess i should have a look under the hood.
Quoted from bjorg:I'm a total beginner at pinball. Slow and floaty is just fine in my book! But I'll try to pitch a degree more and report back. Since nobody else seems to have run into this issue, maybe that will be enough. Otherwise, I'll reach out to JJP. BTW, I'm also the first owner of this Smaug edition. Such a fun package, but I haven't played it as much as my other machines.
i havn't put much time on mine either, and maybe mine is too steep to enjoy it and get through the modes.
Quoted from Disruptor71:Wanted update to 3.12 from 3.11 today and everything was looking good so far until I restart the pin. The Hobbit is not booting anymore. After the JJP logo both screens are black. The pin and CPU is running but no booting anymore. Any ideas? is there a ‘restart’ button somewhere?
I tried also to insert a full image in the USB afterwards but still the same. Pin is not starting.
when you started did you get a message for partial or full install and push both flippers confirm full install? i just went through the same thing on my TS4 and i chose the partial and it did the exact same thing as your hobbit. i had to do the down load again but plug directly into the PC and choose the option to do full install by holding both flippers.
Quoted from vintage4life:I cannot get my left vuk to fire the ball up to the ramp consistently. It will sometimes go half way up and fall back into the vuk. Doesn’t happen all the time. It’s random. I have messed with the coil power. Makes no difference. Anyone dealt with this?
my ball trough was doing this, if it uses the same plunger , the plunger could be broke. mine broke off just above the roll pin.
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