(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by LTG
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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (8 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (8 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (8 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (7 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (7 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (7 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (7 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (7 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1352 7 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

It certainly sounds like I need to go over the whole under-playfield and tighten everything up. Not sure why there is a such a big problem with lose screws on these, as it is affecting local people as well, not just people that have had them shipped long distances.
My wireform is defective, as it does have 2 prongs that stick out too far (on the main two straights that the ball runs down) so I don't think any amount of adjusting mine will make it 100%, so needs a replacement.
I am interested to know if others are having the cracked plastics under the beast mechs, it can't just be me surely.
Also I have not heard of others getting melted coils as of yet?

Hi Luke,

just thought I'd post another UK perspective (since I think yours is the only UK feedback I've seen?)

I'm 150 games in and ....

The loose screw/nut problem isn't a distance thing as I've just randomly checked a dozen or more under the playfield and they're all fine.
A few up top were a bit loose allowing the plastics to move though.

Have just started having a problem with the Orc beast not popping up (though it tries) - thought it might be a similar problem to what you had, but just had a look at it and it seems to be the beast rod (rather than the coil plunger) binding on the frame. thinking that maybe the mech has moved position where it fastens to the coil plunger. Hopefully I can adjust this without removing the whole mech - those wires down the middle make it look like removing either the Orc or Goblin will be a right pain.

Also checked the plastics under the mechs (not an easy task in situ!) and they're all fine and the service rails aren't too bad either - left one OK and the right is half on.

Got the flap curl on the ramps though (but it sounds like that's universal!)

Also had to remove all 4 beast flaps and file/smooth the edges (particularly at the back) as these were starting to mark the PF - might have to put some extra mylar round the back of the holes (could do with being done from the factory really).

Apart from that - loving the game (PS were did you get 1.30p from ;o) )

Cheers
Geoff

#1356 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. ( MM didn't come that way )
LTG : )

hmm, mine doesn't - mylar along the front and 3/4 of the way up the side - getting narrower as it goes back.

#1357 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

At the bottom of the mechanism is a locknut, loosen it, and turn the rubber stopper on the other side up a bit and retighten the locknut.
LTG : )

cheers - will take a look

#1389 7 years ago
Quoted from viaxx:

hi geoff,

the reason for binding could be, that the pop-up drive coil plunger (6) and the pop-up guide shaft do not run parallel.
the reason is highly likely the slingshot plunger return spring (14).
the winding is stuck partially between bell armature stop (11) and the pop-up drive coil plunger (6) causing the plunger to sit crooked.
loosen the 10-32 nylon stop nut a bit, push up the spring and hold it there, retighten the nut - that should do the trick.

Cheers - that's what I was hoping was the problem and was attempting to describe above...

Had a look at it last night and have now got it working 100%
There's quite a lot of adjustment in that plate ((5) in the diagram) and it took several attempts since it has to be done with the PF up which changes all the geometry.

Cheers
Geoff

#1391 7 years ago

yep - on Jack's video it looks like that hobbit already has the blue spring steel flaps fitted

#1399 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The wireform per se is not defective. But there is a possible ball hang issue that is being resolved via a free update kit.

Totally agree. However Luke isn't getting ball hang issues (I reckon he'd be happy if he was). He's getting air balls off the end of his ramp - which in his case does look to be defective.

As others have said - hopefully Luke and JJP will get this sorted to both their satisfactions.

Cheers
Geoff

(PS Orc decided to go back into hiding during a particularly good/long Into the Fire mode - not been seen since. Looks like I'll be getting the spanners out again)

5 months later
#2712 7 years ago
Quoted from Zaquar:

Anyone have any feedback on this.....it seems like the Radagast (right hole) light should be on during game play per picture shown and it's not? I know the light works fine during other animations and so forth but weird it's off otherwise?

I've noticed this too - definitely doesn't behave like the other arrows (e.g. Thorin, Balin)

I mentioned the behaviour to JJP on the back of another ticket that I raised and Victor said his machine did the same! - so I assumed that it was a software issue that would get addressed at a later date (I noticed it at v1.2 if I remember correctly)

4 months later
#3418 6 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I still have a recurring problem with my Goblin Pop-up. I've previously posted it on this thread (p. 55), but the problem persists. After several hits, the Goblin head stops popping up. The LED lights up, but the steel flap only moves upward above the PF surface about 1/16". I then stop game play & manually pop him up & twist head slightly. It then pops up for only a few additional hits & then quits working.
With the PF raised on skids and manual movement, there is absolutely no obstruction or impingement of the mechanism. It moves freely without hitting the PF wood edge. The Goblin head does not hit the plastic insert. I even removed the insert to make sure.
With the PF down & in the test mode, the Goblin steel flap only moves upwards 1/16"' to 1/8" above the PF surface, even after twisting the head ever so slightly. The other Pop-ups (Orc, Warg & Spider) work fine. In their test modes, the the steel flaps move about 1/2" above the PF & their mechanisms make a loader noise.
With the PF raised against the back box & in the test mode, the Goblin mechanism slides up to the steel flap & stops. With the other pop-ups, their mechanisms slide up to & hit the steel flaps and, as stated previously, make a loader noise. It's as if the Goblin coil is not strong enough/defective.
Any thoughts? I really think it might be a defective coil/sleeve. I really don't know why the slight head twist allows the mechanism to work a couple of times, since there is absolutely no obstruction or impingement to movement.
I emailed Victor 3+ wks. ago and he has yet to respond.
If it is the coil, how do you switch it out for a new one? I ordered a coil from the Hobbit Parts Store for $35 plus $28 two-day shipping. To switch coils, I assume you have to remove the two flap compression springs, lift off the steel flap, unplug the respective Molex connectors, & unscrew the 4 anchoring screws of the mechanism & pull entire mechanism out.
Thanks for any replies.

Hi there,

I had this problem almost a year ago with my Orc Mech. I raised a ticket with JJP and Victor replied with the following and after just a slight push forward it's been fine ever since...

"I do have something to try before you take the mech out . pop up the mech in test or force it up by picking up the trap door. ******WARNING******** the door can be very sharp and has been known to cut people. while its raised use a rag to protect you hand and with the palm of you hand push the Back of the mech slightly. then try just to adjust it a bit in case it was binding up. From the bottom can you push the mech and does it Come up smooth?"

Cheers
Geoff

5 months later
#4040 6 years ago
Quoted from Boatshoe:

How do I get the extra ball in the "complete all qualifiers"? I keep trying to start the roaming drop target to light extra ball, but it never happens. Do I need to get all the qualifiers on 1 ball? Maybe that's my issue? Is there a setting I have wrong?
Thanks!

I'd like to know this too as it seems a bit random (possibly a bug?)
I've started it on 1 ball and I've started it across multiple balls - but not always!
Doesn't seem to start if you complete the qualifiers when in Smaug MB or Beast Frenzy.
Fairly sure I've had it start and not start when in a mode too!

And I've no idea what the criteria is for getting it a second or third time even though I have managed it a few times.

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