I am not an owner, but just wanted to say what a great game this is. I have played a total of two games and it's just great, lots of shots, countless modes, a great light show and animations. No idea what I was doing, but it felt good. I played in the JJP tournament yesterday and finished 7th I think, scored 487k I think, first time I ever played it. Then went to play it at silverball museum and scored 890k and got the fourth highest score on the game, eached into the fire mb. Love the troll pop ups. In the tournament, the kick back was turned off if I recall. I have no idea if these are good scores, but it was a lot of fun playing it. Can't wait for JJP #3!

Anyone want to sell theirs, let me know.

20160917_170634 (resized).jpg
20160917_170502 (resized).jpg

Thinking about getting a hobbit. Can someone please tell me what the maximum height is with the legs off, head faded down? I have just under 31" of room in my 2016 pilot. Thx.

Thanks, that's over an inch taller then a stern, didn't realize it was that tall. Won't fit in my suv.

They are doing inventory, should go out next week. At least that's what my ticket opened earlier this week said.

What are these two connectors in the back of the cabinet for?

20170106_222717 (resized).jpg

20170106_222552 (resized).jpg

Thanks, the blue two pin not used, is it powered? Seems to be running to the coin door somewhere. Might want to make my own topper and light it up. Guess I could also tap off the black-yellow connector. I'll take some measurements with my DMM.

Installed some lighting mods today, lit back area and trough gold! Before and after...We will be selling these as a package, both lights shipped for $65. Takes only a few minutes to install.

20170107_124835 (resized).jpg
20170107_125213 (resized).jpg
the-hobbit-pinball-led-strip-backboard-light-kit (resized).JPG
20170107_124844 (resized).jpg

The back is very dark, you can't even see the detail in the back area. the light highlights every detail in that beautiful back area. I also like the way the ramps glow gold. Keep in mind too that cameras exaggerate led effects, it's not glaring at all in person. Personal taste.

No, don't use those, look for 5050.

Multi color back board light...rgb fade and 15 solid colors.

Aren't those for the slings?

Its much better in a home environment where you can hear whats going on and appreciate it more.

Which version of the code enables power to the topper plug? I'm running 1.94 and its lit, but wondering if the latest officially released code, 1.90 enables it too. Thx

Thanks. Do you or anyone else know when 1.94 is due out? Its on my game and came with it when i got it from previous owner.

And how are people coming across 1.94?

Laseriffic was selling toppers back in October, but without the topper plug powered, its a paperweight. Yet, i never see anyone complaining about the topper plug not being powered.

Thanks Lloyd!

Appears 1.91 enables the topper power plug too, cant find much on that release. As best i can tell, 1.90.does not.

Yes, 2 pin connector with blue wires, left side toward back of cabinet. 1.90 is supposed to have it enabled according to JJP.

My smaug's mouth does not move either. I need to look under the pf to see what's going on before I contact JJP. What's the warranty period? I'm March 2016.

Thx, will check.

This is disappointing.

Took a look tonight and didnt see anything obvious, but didnt dig too deep. How does the base plate for smaug come out? There are two screws that hold it in. I took the screws out and the base plate came up a little, but i couldnt lift it up and out and didn'twant to damage it.

From underneath the pf, all connectors and wires looked good.

I tried testing the jaw in test mode, nothing.

Fuses test good with a meter.

Given that many people seem to be having this issue, surprised there so little info on fixing smaug.

For those that have fixed the jaw, does jjp give an instruction sheet?

I got him out, didnt yield a fix. All connections good. Jaw Servo motor moves with the head off when i manually move jaw up and down , but with head on, the jaw has very little room to move. How much can people move the jaw on their smaug while its in the game? When you move it, can you feel/hear the servo motor moving? Either the jaw on my smaug is not positioned right, which means likely need a new smaug, or its the motor...or maybe both.

I seem to have gotten him to work now. Now quite sure how. With smaug installed in the game i removed the head piece (two screws easily accesaible behind his head). Put the game in test mode and kept mannually moving the jaw up and down the ful motion with my hand while do the test (coin door closed, push start button) After about a minute of doing this reear2edly, it the servo motor started working and seemed to reset itsef on the proper track. Im wondering if there is a gearinlg issue with the servo motor. Will have to wait to see if this is a permanent fix.

Also, someone told me to make sure two numbers on the bottom of the motor match the jaw settings in the game test.

If your jaw doesnt work, this may help you and its simpe to do.

I have a Smaug that was made in March 2016, no issues to speak of, it has about 1800 plays and has needed none of the reported common fixes. The only thing I've done is put a #8 nut under the screw at the exit to the mode wire form. JJP provides a post, my fix is as good and not noticeable.

I also have an LE I recently picked up nearly new out of the box, 30 plays. Same issue with left wireform exit, same fix. It was made in April 2016.

Both play and look exactly the same. The Smaug has held up extremely well and looks like new.

I have the Smaug for sale for 7750 in the market, but would also consider selling the LE for the same price (the LE has a full year warranty as I just registered it yesterday.). I don't need or want two, an opportunity came up to get a second so I took it. It's become Apparent to me that there is no difference between the two games except the artwork so either can go.

20170218_161435 (resized).jpg

I have an extra set of pingraffix hobbit side decals. $70 shipped if paid via paypal gift, thats about 20% off retail.

20170219_101653 (resized).jpg

Edit: these are now sold.

Picked up this really nice shooter rod from modfather, much better than the stock shooter. Flash washes it out a little, but itspp a perfect color match for the bronze on my LE.

2017022295092158 (resized).jpg

The magnet by the barrels does not activate for the mode add a balls,.only the one that is on the left is used for mode balls. My magnet is not very active, hardly ever see it used. I'm running 1.94.

they gave you the wrong plug, should have been two pin, they gave you three pin. Also, make sure you are running the latest code so the topper is powered, earlier versions did not have power. I think you may need 1.90 or possibly a later version. I know 1.94 powers it.

Thanks, the effect is pretty dramatic. You don't realize how dark the back area really is until you light it up.

the-hobbit-pinball-led-strip-backboard-light-kit (resized).JPG
the-hobbit-pinball-playfield-1 (resized).jpg

Then you have an issue with their mod/connector, may be wired backwards. No settings for the topper, automatically powered.

looks right in terms of the location of the red and black wires on the connector, but maybe it's wired incorrectly where it connects to the mod itself, or the mod itself doesn't work properly. Why not call the manufacturer? Can't recall what code you said you were running, but you need to be on 1.94.

if you have a meter, you can check the voltage coming out of the blue connector to verify 12v. Set your meter to check voltage, one probe on the pin at the ear of the connector, other probe on ground braid in the game somewhere. should read 12v.

Not many issues with the game, very reliable. You'll want the jjp free update kit, which includes left wireform post, pop up brackets, drop target springs and new ramp flaps. My games havent needed anynof these except left ramp post. Check if ramp flaps are curling, not an issue if they are unless it interferes with ball travel. Replacing is a pain, but not too bad. Check shooter rod, ball should be able to at least reach the R in dwarf. If not, youll need to stretch it or buy a new one. Great game!

I don't think that's right, it holds the springs on the beast pop ups in place. Check your pop ups, make sure there are two springs on the back of each one.

It's a tough shot, makes up for the ease of hitting the ramps.

Mine fires to the upper right flipper and through the spinner.

Weak shooter: stretch the spring or buy a stronger one. Very common issue. I replaced mine.

I have owned a hobbit for four months and just picked up a woz. Very different games, but similar traits in terms of quality. Love them both. Hobbit is way underpriced right now, grab an le or smaug while you can.

Yes, it's a bug on 1.95, it's now strong at the bottom, weak at the top. the next release will fix it.

Your board is bad, I had the same issue. $50 JJP. You can confirm by switching the connectors on the board. Put the f connector on the r and the r connector on f and see if the r now won't register. If so, board is bad.

Got mine from cointaker.

Email jjp via their support portal and register as the new owner, request to be added to the jjp group forum.

You should upgrade to the official 1.90 release, but also to 1.95 via the forum. Reserve ball feature is very nice.

You can also request the free update kit, assuming it's never been given for your game, which has the new ramp flaps and the beast pop up plastics. I have the old ramp flaps on my game and they are curling slightly, but not enough to affect ball travel so I haven't​ replaced them.

It is very difficult to follow what to shoot when mbs and modes are running. It is also tough to tell when things start and when they end, it is a bash fest. Sure, if I have one mode running, it's obvious what to shoot, but when beast frenzy, modes and Smaug mb is running, there is no way to understand what is going on, at least I can't make sense of it all. You really need a spotter to help you play. That said, I love the game.

I have done the same about a week ago. Was thanked for my input, told it would be forwarded, but haven't heard back yet. The more voices that express frustration, the better chances of a favorable outcome.

It took stern two years to update avengers code after a significant campaign by users. I would not expect jjp to act in a similar way.

Thanks, acknowledgement is all I was hoping for.

I replaced my ramp flaps last night. Wouldn't say it's an easy process, but not too bad. Helps to have a rivet clinching tool, which I have. Jjp provides step by step instructions, follow them and you'll be fine. Requires removal of both side wireforms and unplugging a few connectors. The optos on the ramps can be a little fiddly getting back on as the plastic mounts tend to bend. Also have to be a little careful with the rgb light connector by the drop near smaug, it's pretty small and a little tedious to unplug. Took me about 2 hrs, but I could do it in half the time if I had to do it again.

Before and after pics.

20170516_190748 (resized).jpg
20170516_212238 (resized).jpg

Hanson ht-174 1/8" clincher. I got it off Amazon. You can use it for other games so it's good to have on hand. Buy some rivets off eBay for other games, think you want 1/8 x 1/8.

Yes, it is reversed. Bottom of arrow is now a strong shot, top weak. It's a known bug, will be fixed in next update.

Looks like either your vuk wireform needs to be raised or the ramp wireform lowered. What does it look like where the ramp connects at the Inlanes? Have you had anything apart recently? Maybe the lower ramp connections isn't tight?

I'll have to look at my game, but how does the ball get up on the plastic? I've never had a ball stuck there before.

How awesome is it that the coder for the hobbit Is willing to come on pinside, on his own, time, to answer questions. This is truly extraordinary and I think I speak for a lot of people when I say, THANK YOU Keith. I just loaded the new code and will play it a bit tonight. At least one unnamed manufacturer could learn a few things from this. This is one reason why I own a hobbit, WOZ and have a deposit down on DI.

Get them from cointaker. Have them in mine. They are the same ones used in bw games.

Check with Rock Custom Pinball, he may have done something for this game.

A few questions on game play:

How do you complete the dwarves to achieve that arekenstone? Felt like I was hitting the targets constantly but took forever to light the arkentone for it.

how many times do you have to spell lock? Same issue, seemed like I was spelling it many times, but took a long time to mark the stone.

Takes a long time just to get to itf bcause those two took forever.

Thanks. And how do you spell RACE?

Thought I would share this with hobbit owners in case there is interest. I've heard a few people complain that the backbox on woz and particularly TH being washed out. We created a backbox mod that brings out the detail and color a lot better. I haven't had time to make one for the hobbit yet, but did make one for woz that I thought came out really well, see video below. I'll try to make one for the hobbit in the next day or so and get a video up. It's plug and play using the existing backlight connections so you can choose to keep the existing light on if you want. pretty reasonably priced with a remote and rgb controller, $45 shipped.

My video isn't the best and in person it is very crisp and vivid

RGB backbox mod...in our pinside shop or our website, Lermods.com. I am terrible at making videos.

A lot of people who don’t like it, don’t understand how to play it. I hear people say I played a few games, hated it and walked away. It took me well over 100 games to understand how to play and even now I still don’t understand it all. Some people just like shallow games with easy to understand rules, many others like complex adventurous games. I like them both. The hobbit takes a little while to get it going, but once you do, it’s like magic, extremely immersive game. To each his own.

More will be coming, be patient. Jjp and the designer have said so. Small company, slower progress, it hasn’t been abandoned, I take their word for it. It’s greeat as it plays now, but they aren’t going going to turn it into a different game. I’d think changes will be more on polish, add final wizard mode, etc.

If I play any game for 30 minutes, I never feel like pushing the start button again, it's not just the hobbit. To me playing 10 games of IM or XM for 30 mins or 1 game of th for 30 mins is the same thing. 30 mins + of lotr and tspp leave me with the same feeling.

Adjust the wire form, probably not aligned right. Is your game leveled properly?

Use of the diverter is limited, I think it only used in certain modes.

The ramp flaps aren’t too bad to replace, just need right tools and as someone stated, be careful removing the optos from the ramps. They aren’t that fragile, but you don’t want to break them. When you are done, make sure you snap them all the way back in. It’s a good time to clean the area around and under the ramps too.

Great news hobbit code is being worked on! Hopefully this is the one that polishes it off.

Email jjp and ask to be provided access to the owners group.

I took a different approach

https://lermods.com/products/the-hobbit-pinball-led-strip-color-changing-backbox-light-kit

It’s the video, taken with my phone, washes out leds. It’s very clear and more detailed in person. That said, some colors are better than others. Green and red look great on woz, but the warmer tones, like yellow, gold, warm white, etc, look better on the hobbit. I have it set on fade effect, but you can pick the individual color you want.

No, they are all the same. The very early games had some minor issues, but jjp supplied a free update kit to address them.

You battle Smaug during Smaug mb. You get to Smaug mb by hitting the four lock rollovers and then shooting the right ramp when the word lock is lit on the right ramp.

After into the fire, battle of five armies and barrel escape, there is nothing as far as I know. That’s been a complaint, no final wizard mode. It’s coming with the next update I believe.

Won't fit. Jjp games use bw mirrors.

I’m sure LTG will chime in, but for dragon, check to make sure nothing is unplugged under Smaug. As for the other two switches, they likely just need to be regapped/adjusted.

Balls in reserve setting.

When the kickback arrow is flashing, what does that mean? I could have sworn in previous code when it was flashing and the ball drained because the kickback didn't activate, it gave you the ball back? It's ending the ball now when that happens.

No, it’s a discussion forum sponsored by jjp for all of their games. Email Jen and ask and for access.

Jen is Jack’s daughter. Go on their site and contact them.

Right flipper.

It’s up now. It’s now 2.991.

It's all cosmetic.

Topper plug is in the cabinet, left side toward the back. Has blue wires.

It is not being beta tested like other recent releases so nobody really has it.

Try a smaller usb stick. I use 8gb.

Switch the plug for that drop target with another and see if the problem follows. If it does, it's a board issue, if not, drop target issue.

Hobbit translight mod:

Sidelights and bottom are warm white with a dimmer. Top is an RGB controlled led strip replacing existing strip.

https://lermods.com/products/dialed-in-pinball-led-strip-translight-side-lights-kit

IMG_20190101_154519 (resized).jpgIMG_20190101_154619 (resized).jpgIMG_20190101_150209 (resized).jpg

Main things to check: Ramp flaps curling, beast pop ups working, Smaug working, ball falling off left ramp where it drops to the inlane, vuks kick ball out right, back magnet catches ball. None f these would necessarily be a deal breaker.

Software was never an issue with Smaug movement. Check your settings for his mouth and check if it moves in test mode, check the connections, they come loose easily when messed with.

That’s not the standard way to pin. You need a different connector. Mezel will take care of you.

Thanks for the kind words, very Glad you like it, we sell through Mezel as a drop shipper. We try to make things as simple as possible. The backboard lighting makes a significant difference lighting the back and the ramps.

Why would you need pinstadium on this game? Look how bright the playfield is in the picture above.

Thanks, glad you like it!

It is supplied with a dimmer so you can tone it down.

yes, it's a simple install. You can tie, use alligator clips or solder wires to the the terminals of the sub speaker in the cabinet, run the wires out the back of the cabinet where the grills are and attach to your subwoofer, the exact same way you would hook up normal speakers. that's it, 5 minutes.

Smaug magnet not working in game mode is an opto issue I believe.

It’s not hard at all, takes an hour the first time

I use this for all ramp riveting.

C.S. Osborne Rivet Setter Made in the USA No. 443 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YLE7DBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hO.cDbVAPFE7B

No base included. Hammer against a piece of solid metal, like the top of a table saw. Wood is too soft I think. You don’t want the rivet to give. Hit it hard a couple of times to seat the rivet and that’s it, very easy, hard to screw up. I’m sure there’s YouTube videos on it.

Yeah, labor intensive for sure. Here’s ours, $66 shipped, looks really good.

https://lermods.com/products/the-hobbit-woz-pinball-led-strip-translight-side-lights-kit

5C52EC17-C9CA-46B8-AE58-D11496D245AE (resized).jpeg

I guess your time isn't worth much. Shipping, packing, boxes, postage, all kinds of overhead costs, income taxes and a lot more. I can guarantee you nobody is getting rich off mods. Sure you can do it cheaper yourself, just like many things, but if you don’t want to because you don’t have time or don’t have the skill to do it (it requires soldering in tight places sometimes— do it wrong and you cause a short— pinning connectors, etc.), it’s available for sale at relatively low cost from us. There is a tutorial already done on this somewhere, I think for dialed in, search around, it’s there.

mine do not sit perfectly flush.

Thanks guys. You can try to place the strip as far back as possible to limit reflections, but still get good light. If you place it directly on the black plastic where the glass meets it, you’ll get more reflection. I have mine mounted on that plastic channel, but the reflection never bothered me.

Start with the trough optos, make sure they are plugged in, no broken wires. Put game in test mode and feed balls into the trough. Everything registering? Eject them by hand, everything registering?

Yes, when you change the values, press the start button and the mouth will move.

you can buy the servo on Amazon for $20, the link may be in this thread somewhere. the servo motor controls the up/down movement of the mouth. Does your smaug at least move left and right as that is a different motor?

thx for the order, we distribute through Mezel. Hope you like it, has a dramatic effect, but includes a dimmer to tone it down to your preference. If you have questions, please contact me directly.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fthe-hobbitwoz-pinball-led-strip-sidelights-translight-kit

Not sure why you have that striping on your ramps, mine doesn’t look that way. I also can’t see the leds reflection on my playfield. Maybe try moving the strip more toward the back of the game.

0EBF61C9-860A-4237-84E3-A4810907060F (resized).jpeg

that will work too. Our lights are nice and bright, which means you can place them pretty far back and still get great effects. You could use electrical tape, gorilla tape or any duct tape will work. The strips can also be cut down, we provide 20", just be sure to cut them on the copper pads only. what I show in my my pic is a 20" strip placed just in front of the backboard.

likely to block the leds.