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(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 9,172 posts
  • 578 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by Mr_Outlane
  • Topic is favorited by 222 Pinsiders


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16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (4 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (4 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (4 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (4 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (4 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (4 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (4 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (4 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (4 years ago)

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#1994 4 years ago

I am not an owner, but just wanted to say what a great game this is. I have played a total of two games and it's just great, lots of shots, countless modes, a great light show and animations. No idea what I was doing, but it felt good. I played in the JJP tournament yesterday and finished 7th I think, scored 487k I think, first time I ever played it. Then went to play it at silverball museum and scored 890k and got the fourth highest score on the game, eached into the fire mb. Love the troll pop ups. In the tournament, the kick back was turned off if I recall. I have no idea if these are good scores, but it was a lot of fun playing it. Can't wait for JJP #3!

Anyone want to sell theirs, let me know.

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3 months later
#2683 3 years ago

Thinking about getting a hobbit. Can someone please tell me what the maximum height is with the legs off, head faded down? I have just under 31" of room in my 2016 pilot. Thx.

#2686 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I measure about 32 inches. Great pin if you like pins that have many modes that "request" that you make specific shots in a specific order that the playfield and callouts indicate to get the most points. I love it! So do my wife and adult kids. Very addicting game play.

Thanks, that's over an inch taller then a stern, didn't realize it was that tall. Won't fit in my suv.

1 week later
#2727 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Did anyone else have open tickets on jjp's support page? Mine were closed on the 6th but I'm still waiting on parts Victor's shipped on the 20th... I'm wondering if it just happens because it's a new year? Why not close the ticket on 1/1/17 then? Not sure how they can consider an issue closed without checking first. =/

They are doing inventory, should go out next week. At least that's what my ticket opened earlier this week said.

#2731 3 years ago

What are these two connectors in the back of the cabinet for?

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#2733 3 years ago

Thanks, the blue two pin not used, is it powered? Seems to be running to the coin door somewhere. Might want to make my own topper and light it up. Guess I could also tap off the black-yellow connector. I'll take some measurements with my DMM.

#2735 3 years ago

Installed some lighting mods today, lit back area and trough gold! Before and after...We will be selling these as a package, both lights shipped for $65. Takes only a few minutes to install.

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#2738 3 years ago

The back is very dark, you can't even see the detail in the back area. the light highlights every detail in that beautiful back area. I also like the way the ramps glow gold. Keep in mind too that cameras exaggerate led effects, it's not glaring at all in person. Personal taste.

#2751 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

is this what you used? at $12 for a entire roll link » 5m 16ft Roll 3528 Smd Led 600 Leds Flexible Waterproof Light Strip 12v Choose

No, don't use those, look for 5050.

#2774 3 years ago

Multi color back board light...rgb fade and 15 solid colors.

#2787 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

My hobbit has been sitting idle for far too long >__< I need to get her up n running again.
Forgot I had these sitting in the parts packaging.... where do these even go?

Aren't those for the slings?

3 weeks later
#2881 3 years ago

Its much better in a home environment where you can hear whats going on and appreciate it more.

#2882 3 years ago

Which version of the code enables power to the topper plug? I'm running 1.94 and its lit, but wondering if the latest officially released code, 1.90 enables it too. Thx

#2885 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

AFAIK it's 1.94 that enables topper support.

Thanks. Do you or anyone else know when 1.94 is due out? Its on my game and came with it when i got it from previous owner.

#2887 3 years ago

And how are people coming across 1.94?

Laseriffic was selling toppers back in October, but without the topper plug powered, its a paperweight. Yet, i never see anyone complaining about the topper plug not being powered.

#2889 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Keith posted a link on the WOZ forum as a Happy Thanksgiving present.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd!

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

AFAIK it's 1.94 that enables topper support.

Appears 1.91 enables the topper power plug too, cant find much on that release. As best i can tell, 1.90.does not.

#2892 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Which connector is for the topper? Is it the one with two blue wires?

Yes, 2 pin connector with blue wires, left side toward back of cabinet. 1.90 is supposed to have it enabled according to JJP.

#2900 3 years ago

My smaug's mouth does not move either. I need to look under the pf to see what's going on before I contact JJP. What's the warranty period? I'm March 2016.

#2904 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Connector for mouth servo is on the back edge of Smaug not under the field. It can come loose or back off so I'd start there.

Thx, will check.

Quoted from stpcore:

I am March 2016. Warranty is one year. I'm second owner so I was charged a $170 plus shipping exchange fee for my replacement Smaug. Warranty doesn't apply to me as second owner.

This is disappointing.

#2906 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Connector for mouth servo is on the back edge of Smaug not under the field. It can come loose or back off so I'd start there.

Took a look tonight and didnt see anything obvious, but didnt dig too deep. How does the base plate for smaug come out? There are two screws that hold it in. I took the screws out and the base plate came up a little, but i couldnt lift it up and out and didn'twant to damage it.

From underneath the pf, all connectors and wires looked good.

I tried testing the jaw in test mode, nothing.

Fuses test good with a meter.

Given that many people seem to be having this issue, surprised there so little info on fixing smaug.

For those that have fixed the jaw, does jjp give an instruction sheet?

#2908 3 years ago

I got him out, didnt yield a fix. All connections good. Jaw Servo motor moves with the head off when i manually move jaw up and down , but with head on, the jaw has very little room to move. How much can people move the jaw on their smaug while its in the game? When you move it, can you feel/hear the servo motor moving? Either the jaw on my smaug is not positioned right, which means likely need a new smaug, or its the motor...or maybe both.

#2912 3 years ago

I seem to have gotten him to work now. Now quite sure how. With smaug installed in the game i removed the head piece (two screws easily accesaible behind his head). Put the game in test mode and kept mannually moving the jaw up and down the ful motion with my hand while do the test (coin door closed, push start button) After about a minute of doing this reear2edly, it the servo motor started working and seemed to reset itsef on the proper track. Im wondering if there is a gearinlg issue with the servo motor. Will have to wait to see if this is a permanent fix.

Also, someone told me to make sure two numbers on the bottom of the motor match the jaw settings in the game test.

If your jaw doesnt work, this may help you and its simpe to do.

1 week later
#2942 3 years ago

I have a Smaug that was made in March 2016, no issues to speak of, it has about 1800 plays and has needed none of the reported common fixes. The only thing I've done is put a #8 nut under the screw at the exit to the mode wire form. JJP provides a post, my fix is as good and not noticeable.

I also have an LE I recently picked up nearly new out of the box, 30 plays. Same issue with left wireform exit, same fix. It was made in April 2016.

Both play and look exactly the same. The Smaug has held up extremely well and looks like new.

I have the Smaug for sale for 7750 in the market, but would also consider selling the LE for the same price (the LE has a full year warranty as I just registered it yesterday.). I don't need or want two, an opportunity came up to get a second so I took it. It's become Apparent to me that there is no difference between the two games except the artwork so either can go.

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#2947 3 years ago

I have an extra set of pingraffix hobbit side decals. $70 shipped if paid via paypal gift, thats about 20% off retail.

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Edit: these are now sold.

#2953 3 years ago

Picked up this really nice shooter rod from modfather, much better than the stock shooter. Flash washes it out a little, but itspp a perfect color match for the bronze on my LE.

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#2966 3 years ago

The magnet by the barrels does not activate for the mode add a balls,.only the one that is on the left is used for mode balls. My magnet is not very active, hardly ever see it used. I'm running 1.94.

1 week later
#2998 3 years ago

they gave you the wrong plug, should have been two pin, they gave you three pin. Also, make sure you are running the latest code so the topper is powered, earlier versions did not have power. I think you may need 1.90 or possibly a later version. I know 1.94 powers it.

Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Hi friends- I'm trying to plug in my Hobbit Topper from Laseriffic but it seems like the connector it's supposed to connect to- attached to a wire with a blue with red stripe- is too thick and too narrow, with a seemingly male end with plugs. The one coming from the topper is thin and long, with a seemingly female end. Anyone else with this topper with suggestions?
I assume the correct connector should be the thin molex connector' sequal in shape but opposite in terms of being a male connector?
I don't want to "macguyver" a fix, since apparently the code is now tied in to the topper. Thanks!!

#3000 3 years ago
Quoted from stpcore:

1.90 didn't power the topper on my Smaug but after updating to 1.94 everything was OK.
I installed your lighting mods (trough and ramps) and they look incredible by the way. The ramp lighting is just stunning.
I'm on the fence regarding the ring button plate being sold right now. I wish it was in gold!

Thanks, the effect is pretty dramatic. You don't realize how dark the back area really is until you light it up.

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#3013 3 years ago

Then you have an issue with their mod/connector, may be wired backwards. No settings for the topper, automatically powered.

Quoted from cheshirefilms:

The correct cable arrived
Running 1.95
No power
Was there an in game menu setting?

#3026 3 years ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

This is how the cabling looks, both from the game and from the cable. No dice still, can't figure it out

looks right in terms of the location of the red and black wires on the connector, but maybe it's wired incorrectly where it connects to the mod itself, or the mod itself doesn't work properly. Why not call the manufacturer? Can't recall what code you said you were running, but you need to be on 1.94.

#3028 3 years ago

if you have a meter, you can check the voltage coming out of the blue connector to verify 12v. Set your meter to check voltage, one probe on the pin at the ear of the connector, other probe on ground braid in the game somewhere. should read 12v.

#3038 3 years ago

Not many issues with the game, very reliable. You'll want the jjp free update kit, which includes left wireform post, pop up brackets, drop target springs and new ramp flaps. My games havent needed anynof these except left ramp post. Check if ramp flaps are curling, not an issue if they are unless it interferes with ball travel. Replacing is a pain, but not too bad. Check shooter rod, ball should be able to at least reach the R in dwarf. If not, youll need to stretch it or buy a new one. Great game!

#3041 3 years ago
Quoted from lapean111:

That just holds your coinbox to the bracket.

I don't think that's right, it holds the springs on the beast pop ups in place. Check your pop ups, make sure there are two springs on the back of each one.

#3048 3 years ago

It's a tough shot, makes up for the ease of hitting the ramps.

1 week later
#3122 3 years ago

Mine fires to the upper right flipper and through the spinner.

#3144 3 years ago

Weak shooter: stretch the spring or buy a stronger one. Very common issue. I replaced mine.

2 weeks later
#3216 3 years ago

I have owned a hobbit for four months and just picked up a woz. Very different games, but similar traits in terms of quality. Love them both. Hobbit is way underpriced right now, grab an le or smaug while you can.

#3251 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I updated the code to the newest beta.
Now in a couple modes the windlance is weak when the meter says strong on launch from the windlance.
Its got to be a bug, Hasn't happened before ever.
For the most part the windlance is normal.
I have to say that the ball save on a failed windlace lock is really good though.

Yes, it's a bug on 1.95, it's now strong at the bottom, weak at the top. the next release will fix it.

#3270 3 years ago

Your board is bad, I had the same issue. $50 JJP. You can confirm by switching the connectors on the board. Put the f connector on the r and the r connector on f and see if the r now won't register. If so, board is bad.

#3302 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Awesome! Where did you get your mirror blades?

Got mine from cointaker.

#3317 3 years ago

Email jjp via their support portal and register as the new owner, request to be added to the jjp group forum.

You should upgrade to the official 1.90 release, but also to 1.95 via the forum. Reserve ball feature is very nice.

You can also request the free update kit, assuming it's never been given for your game, which has the new ramp flaps and the beast pop up plastics. I have the old ramp flaps on my game and they are curling slightly, but not enough to affect ball travel so I haven't​ replaced them.

#3340 3 years ago

It is very difficult to follow what to shoot when mbs and modes are running. It is also tough to tell when things start and when they end, it is a bash fest. Sure, if I have one mode running, it's obvious what to shoot, but when beast frenzy, modes and Smaug mb is running, there is no way to understand what is going on, at least I can't make sense of it all. You really need a spotter to help you play. That said, I love the game.

#3353 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I just emailed jjp asking about a final code update. I'll report back once I hear something.

I have done the same about a week ago. Was thanked for my input, told it would be forwarded, but haven't heard back yet. The more voices that express frustration, the better chances of a favorable outcome.

It took stern two years to update avengers code after a significant campaign by users. I would not expect jjp to act in a similar way.

#3357 3 years ago

Thanks, acknowledgement is all I was hoping for.

#3362 3 years ago

I replaced my ramp flaps last night. Wouldn't say it's an easy process, but not too bad. Helps to have a rivet clinching tool, which I have. Jjp provides step by step instructions, follow them and you'll be fine. Requires removal of both side wireforms and unplugging a few connectors. The optos on the ramps can be a little fiddly getting back on as the plastic mounts tend to bend. Also have to be a little careful with the rgb light connector by the drop near smaug, it's pretty small and a little tedious to unplug. Took me about 2 hrs, but I could do it in half the time if I had to do it again.

Before and after pics.

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#3364 3 years ago

Hanson ht-174 1/8" clincher. I got it off Amazon. You can use it for other games so it's good to have on hand. Buy some rivets off eBay for other games, think you want 1/8 x 1/8.

1 week later
#3388 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Regarding the latest beta does anyone else have issues with the windlance shot? I get a weak shot that doesn't even leave the kickback lane no matter what strength I push the button at.
For regular kickbacks everything is fine.

Yes, it is reversed. Bottom of arrow is now a strong shot, top weak. It's a known bug, will be fixed in next update.

1 week later
#3413 3 years ago

Looks like either your vuk wireform needs to be raised or the ramp wireform lowered. What does it look like where the ramp connects at the Inlanes? Have you had anything apart recently? Maybe the lower ramp connections isn't tight?

#3429 3 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

Thanks for asking. Wasn't 100% sure myself that the post made sense! Ha ha. Anyway here's a picture of where the ball gets stuck. Happens all the time. Seems like a perfect ball trap that should've been caught when designing the game.
I could drill through the plastic and install a post, but hate to do that obviously. Any suggestions? Thanks!

I'll have to look at my game, but how does the ball get up on the plastic? I've never had a ball stuck there before.

2 weeks later
#3523 3 years ago

How awesome is it that the coder for the hobbit Is willing to come on pinside, on his own, time, to answer questions. This is truly extraordinary and I think I speak for a lot of people when I say, THANK YOU Keith. I just loaded the new code and will play it a bit tonight. At least one unnamed manufacturer could learn a few things from this. This is one reason why I own a hobbit, WOZ and have a deposit down on DI.

3 weeks later
#3645 3 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Anybody have mirror blades for The Hobbit?
I have blades in all my games, except The Hobbit...

Get them from cointaker. Have them in mine. They are the same ones used in bw games.

#3670 3 years ago

Check with Rock Custom Pinball, he may have done something for this game.

Quoted from pinlosopher:Has anyone tried to make under cabinet lighting for Hobbit? I know it might be odd but at Pintastic New England VIP area there were amazing uses of it all of which required the lighting to be linked to gameplay. Could that even be done with Hobbit?

1 month later
#3821 3 years ago

A few questions on game play:

How do you complete the dwarves to achieve that arekenstone? Felt like I was hitting the targets constantly but took forever to light the arkentone for it.

how many times do you have to spell lock? Same issue, seemed like I was spelling it many times, but took a long time to mark the stone.

Takes a long time just to get to itf bcause those two took forever.

#3823 3 years ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Dwarfes are not only on the targets. Those account for 10 of the 13 dwarfes. The two orbits and the captive ball are also dwarfes.
For the locks I think you need to start Smaug Multiball once for the Arkenstone to be awarded, but not 100% on that. I can check tonight.

Thanks. And how do you spell RACE?

1 week later
#3857 3 years ago

Thought I would share this with hobbit owners in case there is interest. I've heard a few people complain that the backbox on woz and particularly TH being washed out. We created a backbox mod that brings out the detail and color a lot better. I haven't had time to make one for the hobbit yet, but did make one for woz that I thought came out really well, see video below. I'll try to make one for the hobbit in the next day or so and get a video up. It's plug and play using the existing backlight connections so you can choose to keep the existing light on if you want. pretty reasonably priced with a remote and rgb controller, $45 shipped.

My video isn't the best and in person it is very crisp and vivid

#3886 3 years ago

RGB backbox our pinside shop or our website, I am terrible at making videos.

1 month later
#4026 2 years ago
Quoted from Buju:

Le owner here. It sits right next to Lotr for that extra super geeked out experience. As of recent I have been buying into the hate, because let's face it people either love or hate our game. There is no medium ground. Buddy who hates hobbit comes over, and has best game he's ever had on the table. On and on he goes about his dislike prior to going for near a mill score. When I'm calling the shots for him explaining " shoot here, hit this" spotting it up for his money ass I see the lightbulb go off in his head. DING! Goes the bell in his mind and I can hear his brain saying "wow this game gives it to me like I want it". There is something special about this game when you invest the time it takes to get full enjoyment. Flip on brothers and sisters

A lot of people who don’t like it, don’t understand how to play it. I hear people say I played a few games, hated it and walked away. It took me well over 100 games to understand how to play and even now I still don’t understand it all. Some people just like shallow games with easy to understand rules, many others like complex adventurous games. I like them both. The hobbit takes a little while to get it going, but once you do, it’s like magic, extremely immersive game. To each his own.

2 months later
#4228 2 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

It depends who you talk to... in the JJP forum there is a very evident feeling that this game has been left behind in terms of code tweaks/polish and the true vision has never really been implemented.
Yes it's complete in terms of everything there, but its missing real integration of the modes and incentives to play through them well. The code itself is really quite linear which can make the game feel samey i.e. every Arkenstone mode is qualified the same way, and the same 5 objectiveness for each one, and those 3 MB modes have to be played in order. Also there is a lot of forced stacking which kind of messes up modes and multiballs if you are trying to play through them cleanly.
What is kind of wrong/missing with the game has been done to death over that side, the JJP team have no doubt seen all this so most people are holding out hope that it will finally be given this extra shot in the arm. If that doesn't happen I think the value of the Hobbit will take a nose dive and a lot of owners will be pissed at JJP for some time to come. It has the potential to be an outright classic but its just missing that something special which all of Keith's other games have. Myself I think he will deliver as he's never disappointed yet.

More will be coming, be patient. Jjp and the designer have said so. Small company, slower progress, it hasn’t been abandoned, I take their word for it. It’s greeat as it plays now, but they aren’t going going to turn it into a different game. I’d think changes will be more on polish, add final wizard mode, etc.

#4248 2 years ago

If I play any game for 30 minutes, I never feel like pushing the start button again, it's not just the hobbit. To me playing 10 games of IM or XM for 30 mins or 1 game of th for 30 mins is the same thing. 30 mins + of lotr and tspp leave me with the same feeling.

#4252 2 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Does anyone have an issue with the left VUK randomly taking a few tries to get the ball all the way up and out to the wireform? I have adjusted the power settings so when it works it does not rebound back down into the VUK. It will rattle around the bottom half when it doesn't work. The majority of the time (75%?) it's a clean shot to the wireform. Not sure what I need to adjust.

Adjust the wire form, probably not aligned right. Is your game leveled properly?

#4257 2 years ago

Use of the diverter is limited, I think it only used in certain modes.

1 month later
#4376 2 years ago

The ramp flaps aren’t too bad to replace, just need right tools and as someone stated, be careful removing the optos from the ramps. They aren’t that fragile, but you don’t want to break them. When you are done, make sure you snap them all the way back in. It’s a good time to clean the area around and under the ramps too.

#4407 2 years ago

Great news hobbit code is being worked on! Hopefully this is the one that polishes it off.

3 weeks later
#4494 2 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Hello? What is the name of the forum?

Email jjp and ask to be provided access to the owners group.

#4505 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Not sure if it’s the video but not really a fan of what I see? Seems like every color simply washes out All color in the back glass. Especially the green which looks like they live in the land of Shrek. Personal opinion. Could just be the lighting of the video?

It’s the video, taken with my phone, washes out leds. It’s very clear and more detailed in person. That said, some colors are better than others. Green and red look great on woz, but the warmer tones, like yellow, gold, warm white, etc, look better on the hobbit. I have it set on fade effect, but you can pick the individual color you want.

1 week later
#4539 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

I am thinking to get The Hobbit. Does it have the same problem as WOZ? like the early production The Hobbit has some issues and I should go for a later built machine?
Thanks you.

No, they are all the same. The very early games had some minor issues, but jjp supplied a free update kit to address them.

1 month later
#4773 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I've noticed how similar they play, for sure. I'm not entirely sure how to even get to the battle with Smaug, but I assume I was close. On my fifth game I got to all of the Arkenstone modes, so I assume the battle with Smaug was next.
Playing deep into the Ark modes is a blast! Really feels like an epic battle.....

You battle Smaug during Smaug mb. You get to Smaug mb by hitting the four lock rollovers and then shooting the right ramp when the word lock is lit on the right ramp.

#4775 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Oh - well holy hell, I thought there was a different epic battle with Smaug after starting all three Ark modes Yes, I've battled with Smaug quite a bit then. I obviously have not been following the evolution of the game.
What happens after you complete the five objectives when the three Ark modes have already been played?

After into the fire, battle of five armies and barrel escape, there is nothing as far as I know. That’s been a complaint, no final wizard mode. It’s coming with the next update I believe.

4 weeks later
#4896 2 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

I would like some advice... I have a set of gold side mirrors from Pinball Side Mirrors. I was going to install them on my LOTR but think they would look better on Hobbit. Does anybody know if these would fit a JJP machine?
Would be nice to get these in ready for the the new code!

Won't fit. Jjp games use bw mirrors.

2 months later
#5277 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Just looking at the machine tonight a few more problems have popped up . The dragon head won't turn right and a couple switches are stuck open . I'm sure it's all part of the machine getting settled . if anyone can point me in the right direction ,I'm not experienced with these issues any help would be greatly appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I’m sure LTG will chime in, but for dragon, check to make sure nothing is unplugged under Smaug. As for the other two switches, they likely just need to be regapped/adjusted.

3 weeks later
#5474 2 years ago
Quoted from XpertDBA:

I'm sure this has been answered before, but feel too lazy to try and find it.
Where does the game display the number of extra balls you have saved up during your game? Is that a setting I have to turn on?
I never know how many are in reserve.

Balls in reserve setting.

2 weeks later
#5533 1 year ago

When the kickback arrow is flashing, what does that mean? I could have sworn in previous code when it was flashing and the ball drained because the kickback didn't activate, it gave you the ball back? It's ending the ball now when that happens.

2 weeks later
#5639 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

I'm not aware of ever visiting any JJP Google group, is this only for beta versions of the software? I updated a few months ago and imagine I got the code from their website.

No, it’s a discussion forum sponsored by jjp for all of their games. Email Jen and ask and for access.

#5641 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Not to sound obtuse, but I'm assuming Jen works for JJP in some capacity? Can someone provide her email address (in PM if needed)? I didn't see it listed on their website.

Jen is Jack’s daughter. Go on their site and contact them.

#5647 1 year ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Where should a orbit around from the left loop end up? ....left flipper? Because mine ends up SDTM every time if I don’t divert with the upper flipper. Is this correct?

Right flipper.

#5651 1 year ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

Will 2.99 be added to the JJP support page or will it be 3.0 when that happens?

It’s up now. It’s now 2.991.

2 weeks later
#5839 1 year ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

If I may, I would like to ask for advice from you all in regards to versions of this game. Not the code, but the actual machines. I know Black Arrow is the most recent, but it seems like you can get the gold Smaug editions for considerably less than other ones. Is there a reason for that that I should look out for? Thanks for your help!

It's all cosmetic.

2 weeks later
#5998 1 year ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

getting ready to install topper, where do you plug it in at? is there a plug in backbox behind screen or do you have to feed it to bottom of machine.

Topper plug is in the cabinet, left side toward the back. Has blue wires.

1 week later
#6055 1 year ago
Quoted from sulli10:

Any comments yet by the 3.10 Beta testers?

It is not being beta tested like other recent releases so nobody really has it.

#6076 1 year ago
Quoted from frankmac:

Still no luck getting the download to the usb. Just Purchased a brand new 2.0/3.0 compatible 32gb and no luck.
I never have problems usually?
Any other tips
Thx frank!

Try a smaller usb stick. I use 8gb.

#6107 1 year ago
Quoted from konghusker:

The M target stopped popping back up. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but is it probably a broken spring? Hoping that's all it is. I put the new springs in last year hoping they held up better. Also, it made that funny noise I was hearing before, so I'm glad to finally figure out where that sound was coming from.

Switch the plug for that drop target with another and see if the problem follows. If it does, it's a board issue, if not, drop target issue.

#6129 1 year ago

Hobbit translight mod:

Sidelights and bottom are warm white with a dimmer. Top is an RGB controlled led strip replacing existing strip.

IMG_20190101_154519 (resized).jpgIMG_20190101_154619 (resized).jpgIMG_20190101_150209 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#6629 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

It looks like I am going to be joining the Hobbit club this weekend. I am picking up a modded low use HUO LE with about 7 mods with the following description.
The RGB mod is from LER mods, you can leave it off or select a color or have it fade in or out . The flipper mod is from hooked on pinball and is the one that looks like gold coins. The art blades are from PINGRAFIX and match the game with the gold coin artwork like in the dragons treasure room. The award throne sits in the middle of the loop around and has an RGB light instead of the standard green only light. The fluorescent plastics are 4 pieces around the flipper area and protect the plastics and glow green. it also has an orange trough light, and color matching hex nuts.
I think I'm getting it for a good price ($6750) and wanted to know if there was anything in particular I should be looking for on this machine. It's a 6 hour round trip, so I'm pretty much committed once I get there, but needed to know if there were any "walk away" items on this one. Supposedly the cabinet and playfield are perfect.
Other than the included mods, is there anything else one of these needs? I am already downloading the 3.1 code and will install it once I get it home.
Also, as far as moving these things, how hard is it really to take these apart for moving purposes. I was reading earlier in the thread it's about a 15 minute job to remove the backbox and playfield, but didn't know how likely I'd be to cause permanent damage doing this.
In any case, this is going as my "modern and deep game" next to my Jurassic Park. I think they play pretty differently.
Excited to join the club!

Main things to check: Ramp flaps curling, beast pop ups working, Smaug working, ball falling off left ramp where it drops to the inlane, vuks kick ball out right, back magnet catches ball. None f these would necessarily be a deal breaker.

1 week later
#6676 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Did I get scammed?
BLUF: Did the Smaug mouths used to not work, but were updated to work after a software update?
So... before I put the guy on blast, I bought a Hobbit LE with a handful of mods from somebody 6 hours away last weekend. When I got there, the guy already had the thing wrapped up and on it's end, but I made him set it up on the ground anyways. The dragon turned side to side, but did the mouth didn't open and close. After bringing up this point, I was assured that was normal, and that a simple software update would fix it. I had a kids birthday party to make it to so paid up and took my new toy home. When I got it home, I updated the software, and of course the mouth still does not work. I have taken the Dragon apart and put it back together 2 times now looking to fix it and have only succeeded in making the side to side motion not work either (it senses it is all the way to the left or all the way to the right at the same time). The mouth used to atleast close when manually opened but now the only part of the dragon that shows any sign of life is the light up eyes. I have not been able to get back a-hold of the guy by email or pinside and will be calling to leave a message soon. I just pulled the trigger on a replacement dragon (not cheap) from JJP.
I know I am probably screwed but before I put the guy on blast, I wanted to know if at any point in time the dragon mouths were disabled by software. If this is true, I have no ill feelings towards the seller. If this was never true, I'm pissed and will be putting him and his pinball parts supply business on blast.
Incidentally, if anyone is interested in a broken but possibly fixable Smaug make me an offer.

Software was never an issue with Smaug movement. Check your settings for his mouth and check if it moves in test mode, check the connections, they come loose easily when messed with.

#6687 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I just received my Lazeriffic Topper (looks awesome) from Mezel Mods and am having some installation issues. I have it mounted up on top of the pin but cannot get the lights to work. I put in a ticket with Mezel Mods but wanted to pick your brains too. The topper plugs into a blue power supply within the pin. I know it's the correct one per the instructions, and have verified it works as I have my backbox and trough lighting kit (which also looks very nice and came from Mezel mods) plugged into the power supply. My issue is the power supply for the topper appears to be pinned out wrong. The plug and receptical are male/female on the plastic part and are obviously supposed to fit together but the metal pins inside are both male. Am I missing something here? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s not the standard way to pin. You need a different connector. Mezel will take care of you.

#6689 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Just heard back from Mezel Mods. It was an assembly error and they are sending out a replacement so props to them. Additionally, the Trough/Backboard kit I ordered through them (that came with your Lermod business card) looks fantastic. Thanks!
When I purchased the pin it came with an already installed trough and backboard lighting kit that the previous owner had installed... poorly. It did not work by the time I got it home and after close inspection was jerry rigged with electrical tape and "twisted wire" connectors. I never got it working. The Lermod trough lighting kit I got through Mezel Mods is fantastic, was simple to install, and was far better than the jerry rigged set the previous owner put in.
The only thing I'm waiting on now to make my machine perfect is a replacement Dragon from Jersey Jack. I got a note back from them that they didn't keep these in stock (although they are on their site and they let me pay for one), were built to order, and would be shipped in a few weeks. Really enjoying the Hobbit. Ball times are long and I'm limited to one play a day but I'm loving it. [quoted image]

Thanks for the kind words, very Glad you like it, we sell through Mezel as a drop shipper. We try to make things as simple as possible. The backboard lighting makes a significant difference lighting the back and the ramps.

#6693 1 year ago
Quoted from Wesmantooth:

Has anyone installed pin stadium and was it difficult? Thanks

Why would you need pinstadium on this game? Look how bright the playfield is in the picture above.

1 month later
#6831 1 year ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Shout out to Lermods. This back glass LED mod simply looks awesome, like this should have come out the factory this way. While it offers the option to get fancy with settings for flashing and speed of flashing, I find that distracting so I chose solid constant on.
[quoted image]

Thanks, glad you like it!

Quoted from Crile1:

Looks nice. At one point was going to order these for all my JJP's, but on pictures it looks like it is almost too bright compared to the upper part of the backglass. Seems to create a bit of an abrupt transition. In person, does this look seemless, or does it look like two levels of brightness?

It is supplied with a dimmer so you can tone it down.

1 month later
#7047 1 year ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

So what do you have to order to get the sound like you guys are talking. I see this psw10, but what and how do I interface it? Is it really a better experience?

yes, it's a simple install. You can tie, use alligator clips or solder wires to the the terminals of the sub speaker in the cabinet, run the wires out the back of the cabinet where the grills are and attach to your subwoofer, the exact same way you would hook up normal speakers. that's it, 5 minutes.

1 week later
#7096 1 year ago
Quoted from Boatshoe:

I just finished putting the game back together after doing all the upgrades. Unfortunately my spider fix didn't work. I'll have to do it again. All the beasts make noise going up and down, especially with the glass off, but my spider makes an especially annoying shriek. I used to have the hobbit, so I know this is not normal.
My smaug magnet is not catching the ball either. I hope that can be adjusted. It activates in test mode.

Smaug magnet not working in game mode is an opto issue I believe.

#7120 1 year ago
Quoted from Bendit:

I am NOT looking forward to replacing my ramp flaps. NOT.

It’s not hard at all, takes an hour the first time

#7127 1 year ago

I use this for all ramp riveting.

C.S. Osborne Rivet Setter Made in the USA No. 443 link »

#7131 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Do you hammer it similar to a chisel (against an included base)? Easy to use?

No base included. Hammer against a piece of solid metal, like the top of a table saw. Wood is too soft I think. You don’t want the rivet to give. Hit it hard a couple of times to seat the rivet and that’s it, very easy, hard to screw up. I’m sure there’s YouTube videos on it.

1 week later
#7167 1 year ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

You'll need to cut the led strip in 3 pieces. Then you'll need to solder wires connecting the other two pieces to the first one. Then on the end you'll solder another set of wires with the proper female molex to be able to connect to the 12v topper plug. You might want to also consider adding a dimmer switch. For the amount of time and little money you'll save you might as well buy a premade mod. I got one on mine and it's nice.

Yeah, labor intensive for sure. Here’s ours, $66 shipped, looks really good.

5C52EC17-C9CA-46B8-AE58-D11496D245AE (resized).jpeg
#7172 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Perhaps I'm at an advantage being an electrical engineer but I don't see this as labor extensive at all. In fact it looks pretty simple. For less than $20 in material I could do at least 4 machines. So $5 a machine.
I'll get the stuff ordered up in a few days and do a tutorial on the process. I can probably even put the extras into some cheap kits if anyone is interested.

I guess your time isn't worth much. Shipping, packing, boxes, postage, all kinds of overhead costs, income taxes and a lot more. I can guarantee you nobody is getting rich off mods. Sure you can do it cheaper yourself, just like many things, but if you don’t want to because you don’t have time or don’t have the skill to do it (it requires soldering in tight places sometimes— do it wrong and you cause a short— pinning connectors, etc.), it’s available for sale at relatively low cost from us. There is a tutorial already done on this somewhere, I think for dialed in, search around, it’s there.

1 month later
#7275 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Do the lids for the Beasts sit flush to the playfield on machines that don't have a playfield protector installed?
On my machine with the protector the lids sit on top of the protector causing a pretty good lip. This sometimes gets the ball airborne and adds some nasty spin and redirects at times.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

mine do not sit perfectly flush.

2 months later
#7672 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Can’t wait!
I just installed the Lermods back board “gold” lighting strip, and I have to say it looks REALLY good. My game is a Smaug Le, but I think it would look equally good on a BA as well. The ramps light up and look like gold. My only tiny issue with it is that the LED strip reflects off the playfield in front of the ramps, and I’m looking into how to diffuse that better.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I bought the multi color with remote.
After weeks of experimentation I settled on green. Gold looks awsome also.
I put thin pieces of gorilla tape over the lights I didnt want.
I also bought purple one for my WOZ and blanked it out over the ramp to kill the reflection.

Thanks guys. You can try to place the strip as far back as possible to limit reflections, but still get good light. If you place it directly on the black plastic where the glass meets it, you’ll get more reflection. I have mine mounted on that plastic channel, but the reflection never bothered me.

#7678 11 months ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

I turned on my game a couple of days ago and the balls kept kicking out and autolaunching in an endless cycle without even starting a game. We were having an open house with the realtor, so I didn’t have a chance to get into the problem. Any ideas where I should start?

Start with the trough optos, make sure they are plugged in, no broken wires. Put game in test mode and feed balls into the trough. Everything registering? Eject them by hand, everything registering?

2 weeks later
#7767 11 months ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

Times like this is when I want to take a sledgehammer to the game. I just spent two hours following instructions on how to recalibrate the mouth. Take the assembly off... take apart smaug... follow the calibration settings exactly as explained in the manual... put it all back together without breaking anything else... like I'm disarming a bomb... only to test it and have the mouth shut on me during the test and never open again. WTF. I wish these f-ing things would just work for $9000 GD dollars.
Does anyone know if the mouth is supposed to open and close as you're adjusting min mouth and max mouth configurations? Because when I was trying to adjust those values nothing was happening and I'm not sure if it's supposed to opening and closing in real time or not.

Yes, when you change the values, press the start button and the mouth will move.

#7772 11 months ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

Ok, yeah, mine doesn't do that. Apparently it's completely broken and pooped it's pants at this point. Does anyone know where the right servo motor can be purchased? They don't have any on the JJP site. I created a ticket expressing my frustration. My machine has maybe 300 plays, has had more downtime than uptime, I bought it directly from JJP and it's been in the same place since initial setup. I know it's pinball, but items this expensive should be more reliable, especially HUO. Instead we all have to become mechanical engineers to try and enjoy them. Sorry for venting.

you can buy the servo on Amazon for $20, the link may be in this thread somewhere. the servo motor controls the up/down movement of the mouth. Does your smaug at least move left and right as that is a different motor?

#7794 11 months ago
Quoted from pipes:

Mine should be arriving soon from Mezel Mods. It looks so much better lit up all around the LCD.

thx for the order, we distribute through Mezel. Hope you like it, has a dramatic effect, but includes a dimmer to tone it down to your preference. If you have questions, please contact me directly.

3 weeks later
#7875 10 months ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Lermods lighting mods installed in the backboard and trough. Also installed the Throne of Erebor and Hobbit Hole mods. All really nice upgrades that I highly recommend. What to mod next on Hobbit? Still looking for a gold captive ball, anyone have a source?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Not sure why you have that striping on your ramps, mine doesn’t look that way. I also can’t see the leds reflection on my playfield. Maybe try moving the strip more toward the back of the game.

0EBF61C9-860A-4237-84E3-A4810907060F (resized).jpeg
#7879 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I put a little gorilla tape over the lights above the ramps and areas that reflected too much light.
Same on my WOZ.

that will work too. Our lights are nice and bright, which means you can place them pretty far back and still get great effects. You could use electrical tape, gorilla tape or any duct tape will work. The strips can also be cut down, we provide 20", just be sure to cut them on the copper pads only. what I show in my my pic is a 20" strip placed just in front of the backboard.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Black? To entirely block the LEDs ? Or was this translucent gorilla tape?

likely to block the leds.

#7881 10 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I am confused. At least on mine, if I were to mask the LEDs that reflect onto the playfield, I'd have almost no light shining through. For the time being, I'm just dealing with the reflection. I like the gold cast it gives to everything, although I do really wish I could point the strip at an angle to eliminate the reflection.

You could mask off maybe 5 or 6 leds in the middle of the strip that are over the ramp to see if that helps. On a 20” strip, you’ve got about 30 leds so masking 5 or 6 that are right in the middle will still provide a lot of light, you’ll barely notice.

2 weeks later
#7994 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Here are some pics of the Mezel Mods lighting mods including the trough, back plate and yellow under cab basic lighting kit. The LED stripes on ramps show up in pics a lot! But not to the eye nearly as much.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, that’s the lermods backboard and trough . They are a reseller of ours.

3 months later
#8336 6 months ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Killed Smaug for the first time just now.
What an experience that was.
It's going to take me 3 hours to come down off of it.
Don't care what the haters say, what a frigging game that is...

Yep, there’s not much like it in any other games except maybe destroying the ring. Such an amazing game.

1 week later
#8404 5 months ago
Quoted from Adib:

Good day. The A in dwarf is stuck in the up position. I can push it down manually. It will pop up. If the ball hits it, it doesn't register. What could the issue be. Thank you

Follow the wire attached to it and switch the connector with another on the board. Does the problem now move to another letter? It could be the board.

3 weeks later
#8536 5 months ago
Quoted from coloradodan:

Newb question: Is there a shot I should be using that top flipper for? It seems like there's nothing unique that top flipper can hit. *Any pointers for the top flipper?*
Also, recommended setup for home newbs? I reset to the factory specs, then set it back to medium hard 3 ball mode for now, but added 10 second ball saves.

it's mainly used for the smaug kill shot. I find it easier to hold a ball on the right flipper, load the windlance and then hit the drop target to kill smaug. otherwise the flipper appears to serve no purpose.

#8549 5 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Personally I think the top Flipper has lots of uses . I like to use it to get both ramps , The Captive ball , the Balin and Radagast gobble holes , the dwarf drop targets , the three stand up targets , the mystery award , elf targets and stand ups and lock rollovers and is also handy to get it to the left flipper , bounce off the upper left sling , down to the kick back or wind Lance and the Beasts and up to the pops . This might not be enough for some but I think it's quite enough .
If people don't like a game fair enough , I don't like a lot of games which people love but when I hear people say there's nothing to shoot at , it plays to slow , it has long ball times , it's too hard to understand the rules , the top Flipper does nothing . I think people just don't understand it . It has some of the most shots I can think of on a modern pinball , if set up steep it plays really fast , how can long ball times on a fun game be a negative , the main rules of the game really easy to understand (once explained to you ) and the top Flipper can do a lot . The Hobbit one of the best pinball machines ever made .

nobody is saying they don’t like the game. I just felt the flipper didn’t do much, still don’t. Most times I just let the ball come down to the flipper for better control. Using that upper flipper puts the ball out of control. Even if you do hit the shot off that flipper, you've got to get it back under control.

I’ve had my game since they first came out, in fact it’s one of the developers games. Love mine, just not a fan of the flipper.

2 weeks later
#8621 4 months ago
Quoted from Breger1:

It doesn’t come up at all

Switch the connector on the board its plugged into and see if problem follows to the new letter and the one not working originally now works. If it does, it’s the board. If it doesn’t, it’s the drop target assembly.

#8640 4 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

What is the battery it uses? and I think it has to be powered on during the battery change out so that you don't lose the BIOS settings. Is that correct?
Also, if you share how to go into the BIOS settings I will do that for you if you like and can share what mine are.

cr2032. game on. there is a tab on the front part of the battery, pull it toward you and battery comes out. the manual suggests putting a piece of masking tape on the battery to help pull it out. I thought this was odd, but it actually worked. be careful of the fan and make sure you are not statically charged (touch metal before you touch the battery.

1 month later
#8808 79 days ago

Best way to test the drop targets is to move the connector to a target you know works. If problem remains it’s a connection or mechanical issue. If problem corrects itself when you switch connector but now the other target you plugged in doesn’t work, it’s a board issue.

#8824 76 days ago
Quoted from Ky1ebasa:

I am buying a Hobbit manufactured on 12/20/2016. Does anyone know what factory fixes would be pre-installed at the date of manufacture, and which ones i'll still need to fix myself? Thanks!

Changes made along the way include Left wire form. Ramp flaps, beast mechs.

3 weeks later
#8869 52 days ago

Added a Gandalf with a lighted staff to my game...

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20200808165421946 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#8952 27 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Can you put a piece of tape on it to grab it and slide it out ?
LTG : )

Butch did a video or a detailed write up on this if I’m not mistaken. Sounded weird to use tape, but in fact it worked well.

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