(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

3 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)

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#1737 3 years ago

Got my hobbit two days ago and I was wondering if anyone had a good non usb non sneaker net method of getting the game event logging events out of the machine.

Ideally in a perfect world it would be something like a syslog destination it could send to.

#1743 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

My inserts are similar. Not noticeable when playing.

same here.

A couple of questions.

1. How do I get the backglass off?
I've unlocked it using the key inside the door and tried to lift it like a normal pinball backglass but it doesn't even slightly move so I don't want to force it if that is not what it should do.

The manual doesn't mention it at all apart from the parts list in which it DOES mention a lift channel so I expect that it is like a normal pin, in that once it's lifted up it frees it from a lower lip and then you can pull it forward and out.

edit: figured it out. It's a normal backglass except that mine was glued in. I pressed it around the bottom edge and it flexed. I took a guess that it should be normal as i swear i'd see a jjp video if it being removed the same way. I put a heap of upward pressure and it very slowly started to move and then get faster as the glue started to split away. The glass itself had 4 glued in pieces of foam so there was no rattle in it at all.

Now I can't figure if the lcd screen bezel was showing through as much as it was before.

I've measured the lift channel in the head and it matches how far down I can reinstert the backglass.

2. When/what causes the ramp divider drop?

I've only seen it occur once and that was on a distributors machine but not on mine. I'm guessing its a specific mode that I havn't seen yet.

#1749 3 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Yes, back glass is VERY tight. I actually put in a service question to JJP but figured it out with patience and gentle pressure.

Did you get it back in and realigned the same way the factory had it?

I can't seem to get enough downward pressure to get it to align with the lcd properly. It leaves 2-3mm of silver bezel visible.


#1756 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

I'm just ordering mine now as well. These certainly cover my main areas of concern, i.e. the shooter lane, Radagast and Balin holes and the Smaug ball drop. That said, I did start to wonder how likely the Radagast and Balin holes were likely to get damaged and worn as they are - thoughts anyone?

I added some of the included packing foam to the Smaug drop. Works nicely as the ball does a double bounce directly into the hole. I had a visible dimple after just a few games. I'd hate to imagine what a 1000 would look like.

I'd expect that the Rad and balin holes will slowly be chewed out on those corner profile sections. I thought I already saw it happening on mine. I'll double check.

#1785 3 years ago

Anyone else had issues with he ramp flaps being quite high off the playfield?

I've pushed the Ramps down and screwed them in and that has removed some of the slack but there is still gaps.

Video of the issue : https://vimeo.com/180725302

And after res screwing them down.


I thinking this isn't a long term fix.

#1789 3 years ago
Quoted from vega:

Those are my ramp flaps the pinball has just 35 games

Yeah looks like they've been through a war. How the hell can they send a fix for that as they're riveted onto the ramp.

#1790 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Yes, lots have that issue. I hear a fix is coming soon. Some may have it already??

Ahh so no point logging a support ticket then right?

#1799 3 years ago

I recall seeing an extra figure on the barrels in earlier promotional material.

On my Le I only have a single barrel rider figure.

I assume this is normal and hasn't fallen off somewhere?

#1810 3 years ago

Backglass lift channel all sorted. Replaced it with a williams one and it fit perfectly.

#1812 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeekayjay:

Does it feel like the Smaug ball lock releas just a little early for you guys?
To me it feels like it should be held there a moment longer.
Such a minor thing though...

Do you mean the magnet? Sometimes mine misses the ball altogether.

Was anything ever mentioned about a hobbit topper? There are all the holes and mount points for one.

#1820 3 years ago

Found this on the sub magnet.

Any ideas where it would have come from?seems quite unique

image (resized).jpeg

#1822 3 years ago
Quoted from Drew13:

Its a coin mech screw/bolt


The little metal up down guide in the mech. I have two of these screws but there is only one hole that has a cut thread.

Know of anywhere else these thumb screws are used?

edit: never mind found it! There are two of the up down guides

screws (resized).png

#1930 3 years ago
Quoted from ChrisBardon:

See the red circled one in the attached picture. It was already curved, but in this case, it was jamming behind the insert. I bent it forward a little so that it impacted the plastic instead. The other thing to watch out for though is that it can also bind against the screw, so it's a fine adjustment.

I added washers (size 3/16x3/4x18g) to the side with the curved metal. Havn't had a single stuck beast yet.

washer (resized).jpg

Also found my first min led GI circuit death. Do JJP sell these yet?

#1940 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

When I would plunge the ball it used to make it to the upper dwarF target - now only the d or w. What do I need to do to make sure it is aligned properly to get the maximum distance?

Plunger isn't touching the autolauncher mech in the way through is it?

If the playfield shifts too far to one side it can happen.

#1941 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Yes, it's great! Probably overkill, but it looks great and plays great and I can cut it off down the road years later and have basically a NOS pf.

My thoughts exactly!

I have heard other users (non hobbit) complain about them but I have one on both my hobbit and starwars and I'd get them on every pin eventually.

2 weeks later
#2089 3 years ago
Quoted from Rick432:

I'm wondering if anyone who has the playfield protector installed has had any problems with damage along the back edge of where the trap door meets the playfield.
It seems possible because the edge of the protector is not perfectly flush with the back edge. At least not as flush as applied mylar would be. It also seems possible because the protector is essentially kept in place by gravity, so it might have enough play to not offer good protection against heavy trap door activity, which is unusual and so the protector might not behave as expected.
I think adding mylar under the thick, but RELATIVELY unsecured and imprecise playfield protector, might accomplish adding protection to those high impact areas. I also think that it might not be the most difficult surgery in the world. But no one likes to stick mylar onto their playfield unless they're pretty sure it is necessary. Still, better than damage, of course.

Very valid concern actually.

On mine that has a factory protector I think I have some protector wear on the back of the beasts.

I'm doing more cliffy installs tonight so I'll take some pics.

edit: added pic. Seems to only be slight scuffing on the plastic.

"It seems possible because the edge of the protector is not perfectly flush with the back edge. At least not as flush as applied mylar would be"

My protector is seems to be a very good fit around the beasts.

FullSizeRender (1) (resized).jpg

#2091 3 years ago

Anyone recognize this spring?

Found it last night sitting on top of my lock down which was on the floor below the coin door.

I'm guessing it would have to have been something from the lower end of the playfield but there is no other springs of this style that I can find.

FullSizeRender (resized).jpg

#2096 3 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

You check all your beast mechs?

Yes. Beast mechs have a tighter spiraled spring and it's also a different color (brown/bronze). Almost the same size though so a pretty good guess.

#2102 3 years ago

Shoot the ramps, beasts and drop downs

Watch the little screen for what you currently
need to do. Watch the big screen for your general status.

#2116 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Only thing is Tests - Switches - Matrixed, and Tests - Switches - Dedicated. To flag bad ones, and when you closed one they change colors on the screen. The game doesn't track what all happened during a game.
LTG : )

It "potentially" does but we as users can't access it. From what I have been able to infer is that there is an sql database that is written to about which of the switches hit and when etc.

This is where all the stats/audits come from. These are seen as a time series log event in the menu itself for some of the more interesting switches. The dump stats option creates a multi-line combined/parsed version of this.

I was investigating to see if I could pull raw log event's in which I could do some game analysis on.

#2127 3 years ago

For the lock down bar all I do is hold the lever out and insert the bar. Let go of the lever (see first pic). If you can see the lever like this then its ready to lean on.

Lean down onto the bar (doesn't take much weight). It will then snap into full locked position itself.
If you now look the lever will be in the full lock position on the far right (2nd pic)

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#2128 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I agree, in fact I will probably put some there. I lean into the machine hard in that area actually.

I just checked mine and noticed i'd already started chipping a little rail off.

I've added a little scotch restickable tabs (just visible in the pic).

image (resized).jpeg

#2138 3 years ago

As this is my first pin that doesn't actually have armour around the flipper buttons what are peoples opinions about what wear is going to occur around them? I'd seen other sterns that quickly wear away the decal paint near then.

Seeing the rails is pretty unique is really isn't an option to replace them.

#2140 3 years ago

:\ which I don't opt in for.

I wonder if they can just be installed over the top of the existing decals but not stuck on. ie. held on by the head hinge and flipper buttons.

I've found that where I have the pin right now exposes it to quite a bit of passing traffic from my kids. I've already had to add a plastic protector to the corner (you can see it on one of my pictures above - https://i1.pinside.com/c/e2/ce24ac97dbe113a726812b34af6a1bf81d4a320c/resized/740/ce24ac97dbe113a726812b34af6a1bf81d4a320c.jpeg.jpg ) to stop bumps so it got me thinking about button wear.

#2145 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Where did you get the corner protector or did you make it?

In my case I used some plastic I had from a box of headphones. I just cut the corner out.

ghetto temp cab protection

The pin itself is currently in a bad position in my smallish study while my new house is being built (with a dedicated pin room) so this is just a temporary fix. I've found that while its here I am very likely to brush past it and chip the corner off the cabinet. I've snagged myself on it a couple of times.

As for leg protectors I just used some cloth ones from Mr Pinball here locally. The metal corner standoffs on the cabinet are more than good enough to protect the cabinet. I used these to protect the legs themselves from metal on metal rubbing. The finish on them is just so unique that I won't want to try and replace them

Quoted from brucipher:

It has been a while. I wonder if focus has shifted on to Pat's game with Expo and the reveal coming up.

Its coming soon apparently. 1.35 was being tested for a while now so i'd expect we see it around expo.

#2156 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This will bait players into completing modes, especially novice players.
The game is an incredible rush! But, I think it needs to be more than achieving the 3 mini wizard modes on the way to the final mode.
Meaningful audible cues are important.

I think it needs to be something similar to the mode starts.

You get the 5 symbols all joining together at the start. At the end it should show something similar to show progress to getting the arkenstone. All power stops from the flippers. balls drain and then the video starts.

Perhaps something similar to how the smaug multiball lock has 3 movie scenes, each ark mode when completed should show part of the movie where the stone is revealed. Once all three modes have been completed show this (

) cue epic music and a final victory mode.

#2169 3 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

After reading all the forums and threads about "The Hobbit" I knew the only way I was going to get this game down in the basement was to break her down in three parts - backbox, lower cabinet, and playfield. There was no way I was going to lift the playfield out myself. Mission accomplished.

oh my lord! Is that due to a tight turning stair case or something?

One thing is for sure, no one is every going to steal it in a hurry

Quoted from mbelofsky:

I'm slowly reading through all 44 pages. On about page 12 or so, there was a question about the ball falling through the hole in the right ramp and immediately looping into the out lane.

I had this occur about twice in about 100 games. In the past week I had to remove the main ramp to bend the flaps back. In doing so I had to remove both ramp wireforms. After putting them back i've experienced the ball looping out every single game :\

I think it definitely has to do with the last post that holds each ramp. I have some very detailed historical photos from when it worked perfectly so i'll refer to them to see if I can get it right again.

#2174 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Call Frank at JJP, the fix is available if you ask for it.

Are you sure about that? I had an update to my support ticket yesterday asking if they could be picked up at expo and Victor said they'd be shipped out instead so they could keep track. No mentioned of time frame was given though.

Quoted from Pimp77:

You shouldn't have to remove the main ramp to bend the flaps! Just loosen the ramp entrances and lift it up over the active ball. Plenty of room to bend back. Speaking of which:
Where is the ramp flap fix JJP!!!!??

My ramp flaps were so bent that I couldn't get enough room to bend them back enough if I took out just the screws. Entry to the ramps was very difficult by how bent they were. Literally unplayable as 9/10 ramp shots would be deflected by the ramps and just bounced from edge to edge.

#2176 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

They'd have no way of getting parts to Expo.
LTG : )

yeah, it was just a desperate attempt to see if they'd want to save sending it 11,000 miles :\

#2180 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I am sorry it couldn't be worked out.
LTG : (

I only just noticed "Jjp Tech Support, MN" in your title

I'd hazard a guess the flaps used are unlike any other pins so I couldn't just use another flap I can potentially find locally.

ie. http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=flap

#2182 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The ones on Hobbit aren't blued. Otherwise a flap is a flap. The game doesn't know what is on it.
LTG : )

Aren't they supposed to be spring steel though? Hobbit ones don't seem to be. If you flex them they stay bent (which is the whole issue).

#2189 3 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

Beast multiball running at the same time as Smaug multiball ruins the Smaug experience for me.

The best way is to trigger the beast multiball prior to doing smaug.

#2199 3 years ago

5 Mill. wow. Arms sore?

Support has my flap updates ordered

Quoted from Jeekayjay:

I wouldn't mind having both multi balls stacked if there's more differentiation.
Currently I just shoot at everything not really knowing what counted towards what.

Have a look at the rules pdf. It is very details in what to shoot for during modes.

By atleast having a read prior to a game you don't get overwhelmed when there are more than 3 balls on the playfield.
It is quite structured on what you should be doing but you can easily get tunnel vision, i know I do, and not pay attention to what is flashing and what callouts are made.

#2207 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Well, here's one thing that is surprising. There's a new Hobbit SE called the "Black Arrow" SE. Yeah it has different cabinet artwork and armor (kinda like WOZ 75th) but the big change may be with hardware. Pat Lawlor showed a Hobbit cabinet that is using the new JJP platform. The new platform houses all hardware in the backbox, the display swings out and there's upgraded speakers. I'm thinking the new Hobbit "Black Arrow" SE will have all of the new hardware in it...

Spec pages says nothing about it having the new platform. From what is in the base of the existing hobbits I wouldn't have though it would all fit in the head. I'd hazard a guess and say it doesn't seeing that the dialed in sheet says it specifically.

#2209 3 years ago

My ramp kit is on order. yay!

I've noticed that the downloads page and support has disappeared off the jjp web site.

#2221 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I photographed the steps to add the Cliffy protectors and mylar on the two holes and the trough if you need for reference:

Nice! Perhaps cliffy can add a link to your page. That balin hole was pain to do. Even worse when you have a playfield protector.

I felt the switch protectors were superfluous as the balls drop much higher and not directly onto the edge of the switch (unlike other pins).

#2245 3 years ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Ugh, I love this pin, but I may have to sell it. Whenever I play I have to make sure that I have at least an hour free, which is rare. There's been too many times that I've had to turn it off mid game because of long game times.

Goto the settings and crank everything up?

#2246 3 years ago

I made some partial "povcals" the other night. Made to protect the machine until its in a safer location (~ 6 months).

I used a large piece of lexan film (0.25mm).

Didn't cover the entire side, if I find that I need to I have some left over lexan that I can use. Wouldn't take more than 30 mins to make the side ones. The front/side one took probably 3 hours.

test fit

final cutout

3 (resized).jpg

4 (resized).jpg

installed left side view

installed front view

installed right side view

#2247 3 years ago

For anyone that did the flap kit themselves, which rivets did you use?

The solid or regular ones?

I'm considering the solid ones but i've only ever used the standard ones before. Are they hard to do? I've googled solid rivets and seen how they do them so it looks like it is potentially within my ability. They also seem to give the best finish so i'd prefer to use these.

Shipping the ramp back to jjp would take a minimum of a 2 week turn around assuming they do them within a day so I don't really want to do that.

I might get a few from the local hardware place and see how hard they are to do. If I can't do it then I do have a local sheet metal place that I might be able to get them to do it for me.

#2249 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its super easy:
» YouTube video
Just get a 1/8" semi-tubular rivet die and lightly hammer them in

Awesome thanks!!!!

#2270 3 years ago
Quoted from Cornelius:

Hobbit owners, I'm not one of you but I'm so in love with this machine that I've been making semi-regular 60 mile round trips to play it!
I have some questions that I hope yawl might be able to answer for me.
* How do you know if you've successfully backstabbed? I should clarify: successfully backstabbed a target that won't pop up. Is that even possible? I can't get past the Into the Fire part where you have to bash the Warg, because it doesn't pop up!
* Do the pop ups ever somehow fix themselves? It seems that sometimes the pop ups work, other times they don't, and I'm almost positive the game hasn't been serviced between my frequent visits.

I'd also like info about a successful backstab. I press it EVERY time but I have no idea if im supposed to be doing something else afterwards or something else specific.

If the pop up's aren't coming up then something is definitely broken as pinballinreno said. Could be a coil, the wiring (can get caught in the up/down mech), entire lift mech getting wedged if it has had the ball stopper fix installed (i used a metal washer to stop this from ever occuring, pics a few pages back).

#2275 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So, nobody seemed alarmed about my beast mech breakdown, but I think there is a serious design flaw and I think it will affect many people.

I agree. Most likely every machine if the wires are held by the same method.

In looking at my mech's again while I was doing the flap fix I noticed that every single one of them had a degree of cuts through the wire insulation (red box in the pic below).

wires starting to get cut

I had actually stopped it from occurring accidentally some time ago by using a metal washer to stop the mech from becoming jammed due to the other beast fix.

By adding the washer it actually makes a gap into which the wire has somewhere to safely sit.

Pic below has the mech in the fully up position (green box) showing how the washer creates the gap (red box).

unrelated washer saves the day

#2278 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

Nothing contacts the wires.

You are missing the beast fix kit. When the kit is installed it puts a large piece of plastic in the point, so perhaps that is the difference?

I'd have to take another photo from a different angle when the pf is up again to see if the plastic wedge can connect. From memory it can, which was why I thought the washer was a good idea.

Your pin was an early build that was shipped prior to the beast fix being done in the factory?

Perhaps this is the difference?

#2279 3 years ago

To anyone that has done the ramp flap fix, are you finding you are getting massive numbers of ramp airballs now?

Every game I get 2-3 airballs which throw the ball in all sorts of weird places.

I'll have to see if they were the early flipper hit ones. ie. left flipper up left ramp.\

edit : seems as if this is normal when you have normal ramp flaps

#2284 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Maybe lower the flipper setting a notch or 2 and report back.

You mean flipper strength?

#2291 3 years ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

Hey everyone, should my start game button be illuminated? It's not, which seems unusual.....

yeah should be lit up when in free play. I'd expect the same when a credit is added if using a coin mech but I dont have a coin mech in mine one so I can't say for sure on that one

#2295 3 years ago
Quoted from TouchingEvil:

I'm thinking of buying a hobbit pinball and is the third movie on it now with a update ? Last i checked it was not on it and slot of people wanted the last battle in to the game ?

It was just a mini wizard mode. It was added in the last firmware update.

Everything else has had 3rd movie elements the entire way through. All the other normal modes included the 3rd movie sections throughout.

#2312 3 years ago

If the W is down and you lob a ball towards the balin hole it *can* just sit there until a ball search. Fairly rare though.

I have noticed a couple of small graphical glitches.

During one of the smeogle modes (can't recall which perhaps "one ring"?) the left side of the main display has a shaded area where as the right side does not. I've seen this in a couple of other modes also.

#2329 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

The back box, sure. The translight, not a huge fan. Think I'll be removing it. Personal opinion I guess.

I wonder if its super rare for the sig to be on the trans?

Alcohol spray will remove it in a heartbeat if you find it an issue.

#2350 3 years ago
Quoted from Zaquar:

Thank - I see the s/n stickers there but not the LE #?

LE number is on the apron. Left corner.

#2363 3 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

Mine is not on the apron, but there was a sticker along with my invoice that looks just like what is on your apron. Maybe they forgot to stick it on mine so they just threw it in with the invoice.

Log a support request asking about it.

If it was an LE or an SE there should have been a sticker on the left of the apron regardless.

#2370 3 years ago
Quoted from libtech:

I wonder if thats a selected number or if they made that many?

Its just a selected number. Smaug owners got to choose them so they are potentially non-sequential.

If you go back to some of the old hobbit threads you can find details on it but originally you woz owners got first dibs on getting the same numbered hobbit.

1 week later
#2416 3 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I got my SE game yesterday and noticed a few differences from the earlier builds. There is no game # on the apron as well it has all the game fixes as well as different lighting in the back box to bring out the colors better. I also had way too much flipper strength off the bat so I had to turn them down to 18.

Check your paper work bags and see if the sticker is inside.
Other owners above reported that they were inside.

As for flipper strength what angle is your playfield on?

#2418 3 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I'll have to take a look. Mine is set at 7. I was getting the fast balls rolling off the rails as well. I'm having issues with the ball dropping out of the right wireform and spinning up and to the outlane.

This has been seen before. The wireform causes a fast ball to spin. Try repositioning the wireform by unscrewing the nut on the outlane post. There is some left/right movement available. I am not sure what direction fixes the issue.

I didn't have it when factory new but I did get the issue after doing some ramp modifications.

In my situation I think I moved that one towards the middle. The ball drop was hitting the middle metal divider pushing it into the left rubber (while ball is spinning anticlockwise). When it touches the rubber it then arc's over the right post.

#2445 2 years ago
Quoted from DylanFan71:

My shooter was hitting the auto launch bracket and the ball would barely trickle out. I couldn't bend the bracket enough to let it get through so I shimmed the shooter housing so the rod was pointed down a bit and I changed the spring. Works as it should now.

I had the same thing after doing some of the fix kits however I found a very simple no mod fix.

Turns out that there is the potential for a little bit of movement in the playfield when it sits in the lock down bracket when the lock down bar is not in place.

All I do before putting the glass on now is pull on the plunger and see it if touches the launch bracket. If it does it means I dropped the playfield in too far to the left. A relift it and center it and its all fixed. This movement never seems to occur during normal gameplay however just when i've lifted the playfield.

#2453 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Every time I start a game, a few modes automatically trigger before plunging the ball. It's always different modes to. Anybody else have this issue? I'm assuming tight switches triggered by drop targets resetting.

Do you mean the skill shots? It is part of the game.

The available skill shots are : Dwarf drop targets, elf drop targets, one of the 4 inlanes, lock roll overs.

The skill shot can be selected by pressing the ring button. Note that by selecting a specific skill shot the reward isn't as much as it you go with the one selected automatically.

The true game modes can only be triggered by the optical switches on the ramps. These need to have their qualifiers lit prior so it is doubtful they are being triggered prior to the first ball being fired.

If its neither of these can you provide a little more info about what is actually happening?

#2457 2 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I switched out all the white rubbers to transparent. Looks and shoots great!

Got any pics of transparent ones used on the main slings? I'm wondering how much of the light they pick up.

#2462 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Not the skill shots. I start game, ball poppa to trough and sits, and as I change skills shots, sometimes the screen registers modes have been opened. Their different modes to, not always the same ones. I was assuming switches rattling due to drop targets moving while changing skill shots. Just can't seem to find the specific problem

You might be right but the only switches that activate them are opto's. Check that all the ramp opto's are seated correctly. There should be pairs at each ramp entrance and also just after they curve left and right. There is also one on the entrance towards the pop bumpers.

#2482 2 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Aloha! ^___^
My machine number is #910

I'm #914

#2500 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No idea.
A Pinsider ( and I'm sorry I forgot who, to give credit to ) came up with the fix in the picture.
LTG : )

That was me.

Originally I didn't put the washers into stop it hitting the wire. In my machine my beasts were becoming wedged in the up position because of the beast fix plastics I put in. The washer stops both the wedging AND potential cutting of the wire.

Someone later mentioned that they noticed some nicks in their cables and when I went to go recheck I found I had marks in my wires also so I took that picture to show how it was now impossible on mine.

#2503 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Today I installed the JJP fix kit with the light-elements to the front of pop-ups. For some reason after that the pop-up in the upper right corner did not go down when the game ended. I did seem to have somewhat similar hickups a couple of other times during play as well. I checked that the beast should be able to go down easily and also no wires were there stopping the beast bracket going down. What might be the problem here and what is the proper fix? Thanks for your help!

lol! See two posts up.

With your playfield lifted manually push that beast up hard (be careful not to cut your wires in doing this!) and see if it is wedging on the beast fix plastic. This is what happens during game play. Mine was. The simple solution is to add a washer. It creates just enough of a gap that this doesn't occur,

#2512 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Wow, I just saw the wire-cutting bit of your post Thanks!
So the fix created a bigger problem for me it seems: both of the pop-ups on the right are not working
properly. I presume I should install washers under both of the beast fix's screws and nowhere else, correct?

No mech removal required. Just add a single washer to which ever screw is easiest to access per beast. Multiple washers per beast are not needed.

#2518 2 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I've seen this on multiplayer games only so far. Player one loses the ball and when player 2 is up it automatically shoots the ball.

My wife has found this in the last couple of days but it was a single player game only.

I havn't been able to replicate the issue.
I've checked options and auto launch via flippers is off.

I've checked the switch matrix and nothing seems to be activated, shaking the machine roughly doesn't seem to trigger any switches.

I think you may be correct about the drop targets, my wife ALWAYS selected the dwarf drop target skillshot so perhaps one of those triggers is being activated.

#2532 2 years ago
Quoted from jrcw:

Are there any pictures of this test setup?

whoooosh. It was a joke

"btw Lloyd you can make something up as we're not going to know so make it good)

Wish granted."

#2533 2 years ago
Quoted from Rom:

You saved my day with that find. That method is dead proof!!! Works flawless and fixed my game. Thank you so much for sharing.

For future reference the washers I used were marked as "Size : 3/16 x 3/4 x18g"

#2540 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

koops, apologies if I missed it but did you add washers to all four beast???

Yes. You technically only need 1 per beast. You could add one to either side to balance out the force of the rising mech slamming a single one though I suppose.

I do have a question.

Does anyone know what the usb stick is that is installed in the back of the computer chassis?

This is not the usb cable at the front used for updates but at the rear. USB security dongle?

1 week later
#2577 2 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

What size washer did you use. Thanks

I did post somewhere else what size but as have them sitting right here.

3/16 x3/4 x18g

#2578 2 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

My later production Hobbit (10/21) came with the "beast fix" installed: clear plastic inserts, 3/16'" thick. I assume I have to add the "washer fix" to prevent amputation of the green & white wires. Is my assumption correct? What size washer is best, diameter & thickness?
It looks like it is quite difficult to install each of the 4 washers!

I can't speak for you specifically as the beast fix plastic may have changed now but see if the wires can get scissored between the plastic and the metal guide.

You only need a single washer. 4 total for the entire machine. Install it on the screw on which it has the curved metal slide.

Super easy and takes only a few seconds without having to remove anything else.

1 week later
#2627 2 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

4. Post game stats - review modes played, completion percentages, bonuses earned, etc.
Hobbit is such a great game!!

That would have to be a home option toggle i'd think.

ie. End game stats : Short, Normal, Extended, Statistician

That would be good and easily doable but they'd need to do more logging as they don't record all the events for mode completion percentages and all bonuses earned (as far as I can tell).

I'm working on some stats for my machine at the moment so i'd like logging of every single switch hit and score trigger in the game

#2636 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Something that I don't understand yet ... Sometimes some of the "Lock" roll-overs turn red after I have the 3rd lock waiting. Sometimes the red ones turn green when I roll over them, sometimes the green ones turn red (I think), but not all the time. What am I qualifying with that and should I be trying for the red or green roll-overs?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-rulesheet/page/3#post-3421626 - Page 26.

In short - separation of book and smaug multiballs.
More specifically, the lock buttons operate two sets of locks. Ramp locks and orbit locks.

Full Text.
Book Mode Multiball allows you to start a mode as a multiball. To do so you must light locks and then
lock balls via the green lit orbits. Up to 3 balls may be locked for Book Mode Multiball.
Book Mode Multiball locks are lit after spelling LOCK for Smaug Multiball. A Sneak In lock is also possible
by a slow/soft orbit shot that falls into the hidden hole.
Note: If you lock a ball for Smaug Multiball the Book Mode Multiball locks will remain lit and vice versa.
Note: When locking balls via the orbits the magnet behind Smaug will capture the ball and divert it to
the hidden hole and then right VUK.

Note: If you are in a mode it is not possible to lock balls for book mode multiball although the Smaug
Locks are still available.

After two Book Mode Multiballs you’ll need to spell LOCK independently of Smaug Multiball (red colored
instead of just green colored LOCK)

1 week later
#2674 2 years ago
Quoted from daspadger:

Hi, got my Hobbit Smaug about 10days ago. Not had a ton of time to play during xmas, but last couple of days finally. Has anyone had lots of airballs that result in the ball getting stuck middle right edge of the playfield. I had 2 trapped there and one on top of the barrels in one game alone! I can cope with the odd barrel landing as thats rare but the mid right trap seems quite often. Otherwise its pretty stunning.

It sounds like you have too much speed on balls exiting the cross over ramps. At really high speed this can occur.

I've had balls get onto the barrel only twice. Once when I first got the machine and once more recently when playing with ramp angle and flipper power.

Check your playfield angle (6.5-7 degrees). If thats ok for how you like it then dial down the power on your flippers.
Just drop it 1 level at a time until your air balls are almost non existent.

1 week later
#2720 2 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

I thought they said that the game was considered done.

I think you might be mixing two different meanings into the same word.

"Done" vs probably more correctly "Complete".

I would think they meant "functionally complete" in terms of the software functional specification.

Everything now exists that it was originally designed to have ie. 3 arkenstone modes. 30+ modes. All multiball modes. etc.

The earlier code was missing both Barrel escape and battle of five armies, yet had lights for them on the playfield so was considered technically "incomplete". To the user they were obviously missing as there was no way to activate these particular playfield lights.

"Done" could be interpreted as no more "non-bug" fix updates.

#2721 2 years ago

Hard mounted my Azog bust as a topper using the existing mount holes, its loose enough that it can be slowly rotated to face other directions. I'd been meaning to do this for a while but hadn't thought of a nice safe (it could fall onto the glass as it is very heavy) and also removable way to do it.

IMG_8060 (resized).JPG
IMG_8056 (resized).JPG
IMG_8058 (resized).JPG

Also added kili to the playfield using reusable 3m double double sided adhesive patches. Only issue is that I've made an area fly ball's can't get out of :\

IMG_8079 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#2790 2 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Now that I've remembered to check the pdf again, both right! Now I'm more confused though. How are these axes considered spares when the ones on the slingshots are metal with stickers and these are plastic? If these are key fobs what do they unlock, or are they just keychains?

I think the stock hobbit ones are plastic. So they are "technically" replacements. However on LE/SE the likelyhood of breaking the metal ones are significantly less if not zero?

#2796 2 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

I wanted to send this to Lloyd but I'm not quite sure how you send a PM and attach a picture. Any thoughts? Anyway, I have my playfield apart installing Cliffy protectors and I removed the green "building" on the left. I noticed a PCB switch attached to the building. The PCB is on a slant and the mounting screws are cantilevered towards the PCB. Is this suppose to be normal? See the photo. I thought it strange. JLC

From memory when I removed that part a few times my lcd pcb was directly up and down with the recess behind it. Just tighten the screws enough that the pcb is secure (don't over tighten). The recess probably allows any heat (even though small) to dissipate.

#2828 2 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I know this was mentioned before on New Hobbit Mod-Gold Ring Plate thread, but a GOLD/BRONZE plate would be more esthetic on either the LE hobbit or Gold Smaug cross bars. The silver plate looks good & professional, but GOLD, in my opinion, would be more desirable. I have purchased the silver etched mod. Does anybody know of a method (not gold spray paint) of making silver plate gold in color?

polished brass plating?

#2840 2 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

I, personally think "The Hobbit" LE pin is a stunning visual work of art. However, I, like some of my colleagues, think two areas are rather pedestrian - flipper bats and shooter rod. They just don't do justice to an otherwise museum piece. Here is my interpretation for your consideration. Whenever I see Orcs I think of prehistoric beasts. And I think of bones. So I thought the boney flippers from "Scared Stiff" would maybe look better than some generic yellow bats.

Each to their own but I don't think those particularly suit the theme.

I would have looked for something else already on the playfield from which you draw inspiration. If anything the gold coin ones do somewhat suit better (still don't like those).

Small replicas of say sting/glamdring would be more fitting of the theme ie. they are used as tools to slay the beasts. Similar in effect to how the axe's chop at the ball on the slings.

#2845 2 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I also placed a washer between the protector & posts.

I mentioned this one before also. Not sure if I posted it here or in another hobbit thread here about it. Wasn't long after the protectors came out.

Edit : oops my mistake I posted it on aa and forgot to post it here too!

I noticed some Mylar that blocks the protector.


Added the washers.


#2850 2 years ago

Made a couple of native resolution video captures of both the screens during idle loops.

I'll look at trying to make some during specific modes also. Having some performance issues doing records during game play that I need to sort out.

edit : oops, one of them was still private

#2868 2 years ago

Got sound working in recordings now. This is all done in the machine itself.

Edit : and now the copyright strikes start coming in. Do streamers get the same marks because of the audio?

#2872 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

Wow.. "Superb!" .. And from just a couple minutes of watching so far, it sounds like it captured all the sound mix glitching that bugs me all the time too. I sure wish they'd address that. I know my WoZ has a similar issue going as well.

Audio is just a recording of "what you hear" so anything a player would hear will be recorded.

Played with "in-machine" generated streaming tonight.

Got it working but results aren't great. Limited by my dad's very old webcam (ms lifecam vx-7000) frame rate and resolution makes it look much worse than what is probably possible. Didn't figure out how to turn down the brightness on the webcam either so its a little bright. Lost audio aswell but that would be due to me not having a clue about the command line options required to keep it!

Best solution would probably be to have 3 streams directly out to an encoder as the little celeron cpu in this machine can't take what i'm trying to do (not unexpected). Webcam stuck in via the coin door and into the usb "update" port.

Here is an earlier 5 second test without rotation and downscaling. The layout is totally wrong for streaming but does show that it could record fine without local advanced filters applied.

#2876 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Twitch used to erroneously mute all copyrighted audio. They got better at detecting what was in a game and what wasn't, but they'll sometimes get it wrong still.
They have an agreement somehow that if the audio is IN the game being played, you can get muted sections unmuted. And regardless they don't flat out tear your video down. YouTube has started really sucking regarding this for the last couple years.

Ahh. I'll have a look at the settings and see if there is a seperate music audio option.

This copyright stuff is just getting nuts. I got another for a sia song that was playing in the background of my car during an accident my dashcam caught.

#2878 2 years ago

First stream with the c920. Choppy as hell but hoping I can figure it out. :\

2 weeks later
#2951 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It does not kill the start-up pop, but then all of my pins have a start-up pop.

I've tried various ubuntu tips to try and fix that start up pop but nothing has solved it.

Might do some more tests first see if its the actual output from the sound card causing it or something else further down the audio line ie. amp etc.

1 week later
#2980 2 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I have the PF protector, and it is getting a bit cloudy. I am considering removing it to reveal the super shinny PF below, but I really like an easy no hassle PF and have a chip and dimple free PF.
Should I:
1. Try to clean it somehow? If so - how?
2. Remove it and just start getting use to proper PF care?
3. Replace it with another protector?

Are the clouds scratches? If so just novus 2 them out.

#2995 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have them but havent put them on yet.
Lots of dents where the ball drops behind Smaug but not too much other wear.
I have some wear around the character flaps, but my game was shipped without mylar around the flaps.
I have installed the free mylar kit since, but had to touch-up some flaking clear-coat (nothing you can see at all) with a sharpie over the bare wood.

Character flaps? Free mylar kit?

1 week later
#3060 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

I find the E in ELF pretty much impossible to hit direct with a flipper. The N in MAN is hittable though.

I find it's by far the hardest shot in the game for me. I normally try a bounce pass hopefully onto the opposite sling and pray the sling hits the target for me

#3075 2 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

beginning to think they forgot about us, starting to feel like a Stern Kiss owner!

whoah .. . that's a pretty low blow

They only just released a beta the other week with some drastically different game style options in it (reserve play etc).

2 weeks later
#3156 2 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

bar lock down mech is completely F'd, I must have played around with this for hours and it still isn't locking properly. I need a better solution for this.

lean on the middle top of the lock down. This will put pressure and make it lock.

As it was my first NIB i didn't realise how tight the seals were on new machines.

3 weeks later
#3274 2 years ago
Quoted from Buju:

Joined the club a few months back with an le, and I am enjoying it more and more. Everyone who comes over just loves the game. I was wondering if it was normal for the left sling coil to fire 3 times fast in a row. Is this to signify that the ring meter is filled? Or maybe a switch needs adjusting back from the rubber?

Probably the switch. Sounds like what is happening is that the ball initially triggering it, activates the coil armature pushes on sling, sling bounces back and activates the switch again. Then it continues to repeat until switch isn't activated by sling rebound.

2 years later
#7091 5 months ago
Quoted from Boatshoe:

Anyone ever have their beast mechs squeak or squeal?
My spider "screams" as it goes up. I can't quite figure out what the issue is. I think the metal Spider pop up housing might be rubbing against the metal case attached to the bottom of the PF. Not sure how I can adjust that housing 1 millimeter to the left.

I think mine makes some noise but i've always thought they were just the normal beast mechs going up and down.

Possibly use some sticky ptfe teflon sheet (liekthe stuff on the bottom of your computer mouse) to make it glive inside the mech itself?

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