Quoted from DrDoom:
Does Jack sign all Hobbits? Or only on special request?
all of the ones i have unboxed so far (3 of them) have been signed on the backbox. i am not sure who's signature the one above that is though (possibly Jen?)
Quoted from RichieWrench:
What about the drop targets gears -- SEEMS LOUD when it is like resetting -- Any suggestions on that or is that something I have to live with?
from all the ones that i have heard, that is normal. there are 11 coils that are all powering up in a relatively quick amount of time.
Quoted from lschmidlin:
What is revision 1.95? I am thinking that's a work-in-progress revision that they only released on the JJP forum? Just a guess on my end! Interested to hear – thanks.
it is the next release software. it was released on the JJP Owners Forum for testing. There is one minor bug in it (being address for the next release) where in the slider on the display for the kickback is inverted (high means low power and low means high power), but other than that it seems pretty solid.
Quoted from chuckwurt:
Loved the black flipper bats too. Not sure if there were any other playfield differences though.
Different cabinet art
Black flipper bats
One "black arrow" ball (normally installed behind the captive ball)
Black arrow splash screen
Has all other le/smaug features
I sold my personal le and picked up an black arrow. I really like the overall package.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:
Does the black arrow have any special video or animation on the screen, like the LE does?
Quoted from Crile1:
LE doesn't have any special animation. Black Arrow does, similar to Smaug and RR WOZ. Just a little extra animation. Personally, I prefer the LE hammered bronze armor and art better than the black armor and BA art package. And don't really care for the black captive ball (hard to see). That is why I went with the LE. But it's nice to have options because we all like what we like.
correct. I like that there are different choices for everyone.
I also have some in stock and ready to ship if anyone is looking to get a new machine with the new code!
Quoted from gorgar007:
So picked up a Black Arrow yesterday, woo!!
The washer and c clip around the shooter is hitting the auto shooter housing. Any suggestions on the best way to adjust this?
Otherwise, loosen the shooter housing enough to get a flat washer between the bottom edge and the cabinet. Retighten the housing. This will tilt the end of the top down just slightly.
Quoted from pinballinreno:
Im not sure if disservice is altogehter right...
More like running marathons, instead of a jog in the park or a 100 meter dash?
I find this an intriguing discussion. I remember doing a small test at Midwest Gaming Classic a couple years back (when it was at the Sheraton). Both games were set the same, except one of them had the center post removed and the other did not. Funny thing is, the one with the center post actually had shorter ball time. I think it was due to the fact that people were "relying" on it too much instead of nudging the machine around. This was by no means a scientific test as there were many different players on the machines all weekend, just an observation. I find myself relying on the center post on games whenever there is one installed... and it usually ends with me losing the ball quicker.
Quoted from delt31:
Isn't that the expectation though? No center post equals shorter ball time?
sorry, i wrote that wrong. it was the opposite of what should have happened. the one WITH the center post had longer times. Like i said, this was by no way scientific and could have just been due to the level of the players playing that weekend and on that game.
Quoted from brooklynknight:
Have any of you had challenges around the ball getting stuck in the right side drop targets (please see pictures below)!
It happens more than I would have thought and liked....
[quoted image][quoted image]
There should be an adjustment screw under the plastic target itself. By adjusting this screw you can raise the bottom of the target up so it rests flat with the playfield. I'm at the airport, but in sure ltg can grap a picture of the area for you.
Edit: damnit ltg. You're just too fast. Beet me to it by 22 seconds.
Quoted from PACMAN:
QUICK TECH help needed.
Sooo... i start a game but my stubborn Hobbit won't launch a ball into the shooter lane. Seems the coil strength is too low.
BUT, in test mode it does just fine??!!!
What the heck?
from my understanding, the power in the test menu is not relative to the actual number. the coils are full strength in the test menu.
Check and see if the ball is hitting the underside of the apron, (not in test mode). if it is, then you need to turn the power down.
Hobbit 3.0 full install is up on the JJP website
here is the readme from 2.96 to 3.00
== Jersey Jack Pinball, Inc. ==
== Presents ==
== The Hobbit ==
== http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/ ==
== Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/JerseyJackPinball ==
== Support Portal: http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com ==
== Company Twitter: @JJPinball ==
== Software Department Twitter: @JJPSoftware ==
== Copyright � 2016-8 Jersey Jack Pinball, Inc. ==
Comments, questions, and/or bug reports? Ask @JJPSoftware, which is monitored
and responded by humans.
Issues with your game?
Please open a ticket: http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com
== Legend ==
+ Addition * Change/bugfix - Note
== Version 3.0 November 12, 2018 ==
== 3.00 ISO image MD5 checksum: 0ef75a9406716b306cd73b63b394f5db ==
- NOTE: This is a FULL INSTALL release
* Changed "Gollum Save" display to prevent showing it on top of Extra Ball
* Updated Operator Manual to 3.4
* Support for newer motherboards
== Version 2.991 November 2, 2018 ==
=== Game Code
* Fixed "Defeat of Azog" U-turn ramp diverter behavior
* Fixed Book Mode ball locked display sometimes showing +0 balls
* Changed Windlance display logic to ensure the shot meter always shows up
* Changed dragon priority for Smaug MB vs. modes
=== Core Code
* Fixed drop target malfunction detection
== Version 2.99 October 29, 2018 ==
=== Game Code
* Fixed "Battle of Five Armies" stage 3 logic
* Changed Arkenstone mode grace period behavior to no longer lock out all rules
* Changed "Defeat of Azog" rule to use U-turn ramp diverter
* Reverted "Light Mystery" inlane rule to V2.01 behavior
+ Added effects for Smaug Multiball Victory laps
* Adjusted music ducking for Smaug defeated
* Modified and added a few lamp effects
* Swapped fanfares for "Gandalf qualified" and "Book Mode lit"
* Updated Operator Manual to 3.3
=== Core Code
* Updated currency and pricing adjustment system
- Pricing settings display more sensibly when currency setting is changed
- Changing currency resets all pricing adjustments and earnings audits
- Invalid pricing tiers are now flagged when set
* Fixed Euro 11 preset
+ Added Japan pricing preset
== Version 2.98 October 18, 2018 ==
=== Game Code
* Modified some lamp effects
* Refined how speech is handled in Arkenstone modes
+ Added Extra Ball count and Tilt Warnings remaining to Status Report
* Changed beast taunting in "The Bait" to prevent repeated scoring w/misadjusted target
* Changed scoring on "Portcullis Loop" award
=== Core Code
* Fixed defect in drop target handler that would reset a drop target instead of scoring
== Version 2.97 October 12, 2018 ==
=== Game Code
* Fixed Arkenstone Mode champs to not reset to default at power up
+ Added some audits that were missing from Arkenstone modes
+ Added music for "Super Spinner"
* Fixed "Feast Frenzy" to include a grace period for scoring
+ Added "Feast Frenzy" and "Super Spinner" champs
* Changed colors used for Ring Button to make them more distinct
+ Added adjustment to inhibit Beast Hurry-up during Book Modes
* Changed Book Mode "hide beast" to inhibit Beast Hurry-up on inlane
+ Added backstab double scoring for Beast Hurry-up
+ Added a few display effects in various places
* Made a bunch of small changes to existing display effects
+ Added game number display to Smaug LE logo movie in attract mode
+ Added a bunch of lamp effects
* Adjusted gain and ducking parameters on fanfares and speech
+ Added some new speech callouts
* Suppressed Book Mode callouts during any multiball
* Changed mode timer to pause on "Gollum save" and trough kicking
* Turned on ball saver at start of "There and Back Again"
* Fixed "There and Back Again" so that it cannot start during a Book Mode
* Changed "There and Back Again" so that final shot does not time out
* Fixed dragon behavior in "Flashback" mode
* Changed "Riddles in the Dark" to be a 5-star tier for Arkenstone scoring
* Fixed ramp U-turn shot behavior when loading Windlance in Smaug Multiball
* Changed all use of kickback to honor "Kickback Strength" adjustment
* Changed "Bait" mode so that beast stays hidden longer on left loop shot
* Changed D-W-A-R-F skill shot to stop updating drop targets after a while
=== Core Code
* Fixed Status Report Start/Display adjustments
* Changed Status Report adjustment to allow up to 20 seconds per page
* Drop target bank error reporting now provides individual target information
* Changed ball handling default to "Balls in Reserve"
Quoted from screaminr:
Goblin won't pop up . It says there's a couple of switches stuck open . Is the circled switch below the one I should be looking at ( the arm on it felt nice and springy ) . To be honest I'm not sure what I'm meant to be looking at . Can't see any broken wires and all the connections seem good as far as I can tell . In coil test the Goblin moves a tiny bit but not as much as the other Beasts . Any suggestions on what to do would be great .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The beast mechs are essentially flipper mechs. There is the main power that pushes up the mech and then the hold power.
Is your interlock switch pulled out? Have you tried moving the mech manually? If the computer shows it as broken you might need to move it manually.
Quoted from screaminr:
Yes I pulled the interlock out to do the test ( it would be good if it reminded you to do that on the screen ) and it moves freely when I do it manually
if you manually hold it up, and then hit the test button, does it stay up?
If you manually bring it up and then hit the two switches, do they work?
If it is not going up in test mode, then i would look at the wiring on the coil itself.
The switch you circled in your picture is the "goblin up" switch, so if you manually lifted it all the way up then that switch should have been activated and cleared the "red" status. If you hit the goblin face, that should activate the "Goblin Pop-Up Hit" switch.
post a picture of the up coil so we can look at that wiring.
Quoted from Cloud7:
My wife's friend came over last night with her husband. He likes pinball but hasn't played in many years. So I naturally turn my games on and tell him he can play anyone. He immediately goes to the Hobbit and keeps remarking about how amazing it looks. After ball 2 he says he wants to get one. It was a great night!
i have a black arrow (show game) and a nib smaug in stock. They are both going with my to tpf this week. whichever one sells, the other one will be coming back into my house. if he wants either let me know before the show begins (friday 3/22/19)
Quoted from OchoFosho:
Thanks. That is how I suspected it should work. So I guess I'm wondering why a switch would work fine in test, but never in the game.
it is an opto. i would trace it back to your opto board and see if you have any loose connectors. i had a hobbit where everything worked 100% until you put the playfield back into place, then for whatever reason, the wires inside the Molex would move and it was just enough to wire out an entire column of my optos.
Quoted from cjpins:
Just joined the club with a Black arrow and it is amazing . What a great pin !! Can anyone tell me how to read serial number to find out what number game I have?
serial number is on the back or on the inside to the left (by the left flipper button).
the serial number and the game number have nothing to do with each other though. the game number is arbitrary and only means something to the person who owns the game. jjp might not even know what "game number" goes with what serial number.
Quoted from oyvindmo:
I have lost power to two coils, specifically the spider pop-up (power and hold) and the upper slingshot. These two are on the tan colored power line. All other coils on the same line, work fine. Measuring voltage on the tan wire's pin on the molex connector by the spider coil shows 0V. I have continuity between the spider coil and the slingshot coil.
Before I start ripping apart the large and neatly zip-tied wiring looms, do anyone by any chance know where the next upstream power connection is from these two coils?
if you go into the device test, is the spider red? if so, check your "up" and your "hit" switch. if either are not working it will disable the mech unit the problem is resolved. the coils will not fire if it has been disabled.
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