(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,705 posts
  • 508 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5176 1 year ago
Quoted from Yfichelle:

thanks to you, problem is solved ^^
But JJP must improved this problem. The wires for the 4 mechanism are almost all cut... Its due to the plastic (from the last kit sent by JJP) under the heads, it's pinching the wires...
I have transformed the 4 plastic with a small tool in order to have no more the problem.

Could you post some pictures please, I'm about to join the hobbit brotherhood so would appreciate any thing to check out that could cause issues...cheers

1 month later
#5339 1 year ago

Hi all,
I've taken delivery of a lovely Hobbit se today, going through the usual post delivery health check and smaug's head won't turn or move his mouth. His max left and right optos are both activated even with his head somewhere inbetween with optos visibly unbroken by the tab that moves with smaug's head. I've unplugged and reseated all cables that I think are related, im assuming something has come loose in transit but any suggestions where to go next gratefully received.....

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#5341 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Make sure your coin door is closed when you test! I can’t tell you how many times I did that..

Thanks mate but def not that! It can't be a faulty opto if both are showing active when neither is engaged. Bit of a head scratcher this one! Doesn't help that I'm used to mid 90s dmd pins and this is like it's been made by NASA when you look under the bonnet!

#5347 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

With the power off does the head move freely?
With the power on can you move the head?
There are only 4 screws to remove the head. It's pretty easy to remove.
Does the head opto board seem to be in order and plugged in?
Check that the motor and servo is plugged in.

Ok, with power off head moves freely.

With power on head moves but jerkily with some resistance. Point to note bottom of motor getting very hot but can't see a reason linking this with both optos giving false readings.

Checked all connections without removing head, can't find a loose connection. Do you mean the screws under the pf? Not sure what I'd accomplish taking the head out tbh. Any further thought on where to look on the wiring anyone? Does the switch data run through the data cable j101 or the connector j100 on the same board as the optos? So frustrating!!

#5353 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The head comes out from the top.
Remove it to get a better view of the servos and board etc.
It's not binding and yes if the motor has power I moves jerky by hand.
That's correct.
Next it looks like it's not getting signal or optos.
Wire unplugged or broken inside a connector?
Opto not soldered properly?
My guess.

Thanks for the reply and suggestions, much appreciated.

I had the head out and apart as best as I could last night and checked every connection, even ran a different cat5 from the head back to the
relevant board incase that had developed a fault. No obv breaks or faults but didnt go as far as taking the opto board completely out to inspect closer as its between both the metal discs and looks tricky to remove but I'm guessing that's my next job but I have no idea how to test it once out if it's not working in situ? Time to call my distro I think? Problem is he's 3.5 hours away and this is 2nd hand so not sure what he can do. Will let you guys know how I get on. I was hoping there would be something in the menu that could diagnose or a led in the motherboard that might help point to the fault but way beyond me at this point..

1 month later
#5544 1 year ago

I bought this easy to install mod and couldn't be happier, really looks the biz!
ebay.com link

Love the idea if waiting till 3.0 code to treat myself to the lockdown bar plate mod, great idea!

3 months later
#6500 8 months ago

Hi gang, my Hobbit came with broken lamps on the 4 that point to the pop ups on the pf. These are 12v I think, any links to suggested replacements? Will uv ones make the trap doors 'pop'?

#6502 8 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

My lamps are out too , tried new leds must be a connection somewhere . I'm not sure but uv's might spread the light out to much and not focus on the the trap doors . Only one way to find out.

I blew the fuse tinkering with mine a while ago, under the lid on the main board check fuses, each has a corresponding red led so look for one that's out, hopefully a simple fix.

Agreed I want a fairly direct light onto the trap doors but I've seen pic where they seem to almost glow....hopefully someone can suggest a good replacement....

1 week later
#6576 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Line fuse is on the inside right front next to the service outlet. But before that, check that the plug didn’t come loose in the back of the machine behind the metal plate. Can happen easily especially if someone was vacuuming or something and bumped the cord.

This bit of information has saved me a tonne of ballache trying to figure out why smaug had become a ventriloquist so thank you.
The problem I have now is that same connection seems to vibrate loose after a few mins play. Any advice on how to firm up a connection like this anyone?

#6578 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Spread the prongs in the outlet slightly until the cord firms up when plugged in.

Thank you, did that and all seems fine now, Cheers!

1 week later
#6654 7 months ago

Hi Guys, I've scanned this huge thread but can't find advice on the stand ups, my E stand-up won't stay up, its not catching, im guessing if nothing is broken off like the little hook type things what do i 'tweak' to improve its bite and stay up. Sorry if this has been covered before, cheers all, J

#6680 7 months ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Lift the playfield and actuate the mech manually to get familiar with how it works. Check the spring attached to the E. Possibly broken or needs to be shortened. Or look at plastic ledge that is riveted to the mech to make sure it's not broken.

Well this really has me scratching my head! E catches when pushed up manually and it all looks perfect, the teeth on the stand-up, the little ledge they catch on. In solenoid test the E pops up fine but when testing all the stand ups it doesn't?? It's runs through the stand ups and doesn't fire when its Es turn but fires when being individually tested so can't be a connection issue right? Same during gameplay. I'm lost, help please anyone!!

2 months later
#6953 5 months ago

Stumbled on this in a Wonka thread, not sure if been posted before so apologies if it has but a real insight into the making of the audio. Just installed a sub into, well, under the game and now, like Spinal Tap, it's at 11..

1 month later
#7086 4 months ago

Anyone know where I can get one of the lockdown bar plates to replace the decal? Can't find them here anymore?

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2 months later
#7383 66 days ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Thanks everyone for all for the comments and feedback on making this mod - it really helped in getting the details in order! I've really been working to make this something that I can produce for more than just my own machine and that the final piece has a professional finish worthy of this pin. You should see this pile of protoypes - oh wait, you CAN see
I'm going to order the materials I need to make ten of them for now as a trial run to see if it is sustainable. I would guess three weeks or so to get them finished. I'll charge $85 shipped domestically ($90 to Canada) - no international for this run. They will definitely never be cheaper than this if I make more beyond the first ten.
As Gandalf would say "A good mod is never cheap, nor is it too expensive, it is priced precisely where it needs to be".
PM me or let me know in this thread if you want in. I'll send a Paypal iinvoice when ready to ship! Those who have already expressed an interest, I'll make sure to reserve a spot (or two) if you want in.[quoted image]

Please ship internationally!!!

2 weeks later
#7509 49 days ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Hmm, I included the picture of the wire going over the back edge as an example of how NOT to do it, LOL The pic say "NO!" - maybe I should just take that picture out :/
So glad you like it and thanks for the helpful advice - I'll start my new thread to stop plugging up our Owners Thread
New thread here:
Marketplace Ad Here:

Amazing, just ordered, thanks for going international!

1 week later
#7566 42 days ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Your post is giving me motivation to try and get to TABA...great game man.

I'm now more motivated to get to BOTFA for the 1st time!

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