(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


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  • 12,997 posts
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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (8 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (8 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (8 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (8 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (7 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (7 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (7 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (7 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#9333 3 years ago

Hey I’m new to this game. Are the beast targets always supposed to register a hit film both the front and the back? During a multiball I had a ball stuck behind the orc and it wasn’t until the multiball ended and the orc dropped down that the ball released. Should a hit have been registered and it dropped or is this normal? Thanks!

1 month later
#9435 3 years ago

Joined the party last week! Excited for my second pin (POTCLE is my first). Lots of great mods - I just need to figure out how to work these pinstadium lights that came with it.

8C6055AA-63DC-4FEA-9891-D23EB13E9D33 (resized).jpeg8C6055AA-63DC-4FEA-9891-D23EB13E9D33 (resized).jpeg
#9436 3 years ago

This is how I found the pinstadiums the two red (flashers) not connected at all. And the GI only had one connected (I connected the other in the one of the pics) and it seems that pinstadium recommended the left side of the playfield and this is connected to one on the lower right. Do you just shove them into the same slot as the existing wires? It seems loose. Or tape them? They don’t seem to be working other than one side flashes purple occasionally. Thanks

70D39E1D-7B62-4F88-A6F5-BA3FD3AC0664 (resized).jpeg70D39E1D-7B62-4F88-A6F5-BA3FD3AC0664 (resized).jpegC16684AC-804C-49D8-A219-E784BB3EDBD7 (resized).jpegC16684AC-804C-49D8-A219-E784BB3EDBD7 (resized).jpegDB7EB39B-9B8D-4DF3-992A-99D90D05D72B (resized).jpegDB7EB39B-9B8D-4DF3-992A-99D90D05D72B (resized).jpeg
#9453 3 years ago

I know the points scored in the Arkenstone mode depends on the prior mode you do but clarification- is it just the last mode you play or the last mode you compete or which mode matter for scoring? If it just the last one you play before going in than is it better to complete an easier mode or try but fail a hard one?

#9455 3 years ago

I’m having sound issues with my hobbit. It works fine sometimes when I first turn it on but after a few plays the music is playing but the call outs are very muffled - almost can’t hear them at all - and sometimes the stereo surround fades from left to right. I hope this is just some loose audio wire but I’m clueless. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I don’t have a hum or loud noise like what sounds like the ground loop isolator problem was - it’s lack of sounds and mostly call outs.

#9460 3 years ago

Thanks everyone for your help. I tried replacing the cable per Lior’s suggestion. Only played a couple games since but so far so good! Thanks again all! Love this game and it’s call outs!

2 weeks later
#9498 3 years ago

Newbie question- how sensitive are your “LOCK” rollover targets? For example if I cradle the ball and shoot for one of ramps and rollover the target it is too fast to register a rollover - so I can’t really shoot directly for them - mostly I get them from them rolling back after I hit a beast or if it doesn’t make it up a ramp or sideways cross playfield shots.

If these should be more sensitive then when I adjust the leaf switch do I slightly bend the long leaf closet to the playfield down away from the playfield or do I bend the shorter lower leaf up towards the playfield? Or something else all together? Thanks in advance for the help!

1 week later
#9545 3 years ago

Sorry I’m sure I saw these were addressed before but can’t seem to find it in the thread now. Two issues:
1) how do I adjust the wind lance to fire into the right orbit consistently? I’ve adjusted both the “strength” and “delay” in the coil settings (can someone explain the difference?) and it’s better but not at all consistent. How do you test this outside of gameplay - just hold a ball there with your finger and fire the coil? Or can you put the post up to hold it somehow while you adjust the coil setting? I also read to bend the metal rail but wanted to make sure I’m doing the other adjustments first.
2) my orc still works but now seems to “try” twice before he pops up - like he’s getting a little stuck on his way up so he’s just a little delayed. I guessing something is bent and rubbing but not sure what to look for or adjust.
Thanks so much or the help!

#9549 3 years ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

Sorry I’m sure I saw these were addressed before but can’t seem to find it in the thread now. Two issues:
1) how do I adjust the wind lance to fire into the right orbit consistently? I’ve adjusted both the “strength” and “delay” in the coil settings (can someone explain the difference?) and it’s better but not at all consistent. How do you test this outside of gameplay - just hold a ball there with your finger and fire the coil? Or can you put the post up to hold it somehow while you adjust the coil setting? I also read to bend the metal rail but wanted to make sure I’m doing the other adjustments first.
2) my orc still works but now seems to “try” twice before he pops up - like he’s getting a little stuck on his way up so he’s just a little delayed. I guessing something is bent and rubbing but not sure what to look for or adjust.
Thanks so much or the help!

So for #2 the wires are indeed getting beat up but I think it’s because the pop up mechanism doesn’t seem to stop soon enough. Is there a way to set the limit on how high it rises? When I push the pop up guide shaft all the way up it travels slightly further than the other pop ups and it doesn’t stay all the way (with playfield lifted the other pop ups stay “up” when pushed all the way in but this one springs back a little) so something seems to be off. Any ideas on how to adjust this so my wires don’t get beat up? Thanks

1 week later
#9590 3 years ago

So one of my pop ups seems to travel just a little to far and is pinching some wires. I electrical taped the wires and I think moved them out of the way but with the playfield lifted I still get some spring back when I push the guide shaft all the way in (see video). The other ones push all the way in and stay in but the other one kicks back out a little. Any thoughts so I don’t end up ruining the wires?
Also, on one of my flippers when checking the EOS switch I noticed I get a little resistance pushing the flipper mech in. Is there lube I should put on it or is something going bad? Thanks

1 month later
#9875 3 years ago

I want to second / third / 10th that the bag end gate mod is a game changer - literally. Not only do I not get the super frustrating SDTM after hitting a clean pop bumper shot but it gave me so much more practice at using my upper flipper that I killed Smaug tonight for the first time ever and did it with my black arrow upper flipper. So thanks trumpanche for making this!

2 weeks later
#10041 3 years ago

Does anyone know of a replacement monitor that could be used in a JJP pin? I struggle to think there isn’t something out there that works that would be cheaper than the $600 one from JJP parts. Seems like a 27” monitor should be half that cost unless I’m missing something about it that does something special. Thanks!

5 months later
#10588 2 years ago

I’m having an issue where my goblin tries to pop up but it takes one or two tries before it pops up. Then after awhile of playing I just had it were it couldn’t pop up at all after it tried maybe 3-4 times - it just stayed down. Coil test works (although the “hold test” doesn’t seem to do anything - on any beasts - so not sure how that test is supposed to work). If I pull the beast up manually or push from below the playfield there doesn’t seem to be any binding. I don’t see any wires getting in the way. Any thoughts are appreciated as always! Thanks in advance!

#10605 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Switch gap too close.
Bobbing head is registering hits.
Widen the leaf switch gap a bit.

Thanks for the insight. I can try that but I think I might have a different issue as the switch doesn’t register a hit at all. The beast tries to pop up (maybe 1/8”) and immediately drops back down, without a hit bring registered. Then tries again and will stay up until I hit it or it times out. After awhile of playing it tries to pop up 3-4 times rapidly but never pops up more than 1/8” (kind of like when you do the beast coil test - just barely pops up). Still doesn’t register a hit - I can still see the white light lit in front (through the tiny slit covering the head) until it times out. I got to the end of stage 3 ITF when both beasts should be raised the whole time and hits don’t drop them and the goblin couldn’t pop up. Any ideas for that? I could certainly be wrong but I’m worried it may be more than too close a gap in the leaf switch. If that fix still makes sense then I’ll certainly try that first. Thanks!

4 months later
#11044 2 years ago

Smaug Mouth calibration question:
I replaced the servo as instructed in the manual but it was off as I had it up it to like 142 just to get it to start to open. So I took it out and recalibrated it. Should I have my min / max setting at a certain number in the mouth test before booted the game bc as it stands the limits at maxed out (100 and 150 I think). I can unplug Smaug and do the settings if so - I just don’t want to mess up the servo calibration bc the settings in the game are off (mine was supposed to be at 120 and 138). Thanks!

#11046 2 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

You need to power the servo before you install the servo horn. Then you know you are at the zero position. From there you can calibrate via the endpoint settings.

Shoot. Thanks. How do I do that? I’m assuming I have to disassemble the thing again and take the horn off? does that also mean I plug in one cable (which?) while disassembled and turn the pin on? Then power off and put on horn and reassemble?

#11061 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

No stock at JJP or Marco for this...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9808
If anyone has one to sell let me know. Thanks.

Funny / not funny - I just found this piece broken off in my cab as well. Where on the beasts does it go and do you need to remove the whole mech to replace it? Thanks!

#11063 2 years ago

Thanks Lloyd! Helpful as always! Have a Merry Christmas!

#11068 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Has anyone 3D printed this part yet? I can give it a go soon if not, but if someone has already done the model and had a file to share I’m happy to print and mail for others.

I looked through every post of the 40 pages on thingverse with “pinball” and couldn’t find this piece unfortunately. But if there is a way to print one I’d be forever grateful as well!

#11077 2 years ago

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4989264

I found this on thingverse. It’s labeled as “pinball target support”. I’m not sure if this would work but it’s close. Unsure about measurements but it would at least give you a start. I’m hoping this is the one for MM and it’s the same size. Thanks for doing this!

#11078 2 years ago

I guess it’s for Alien pinball but seems similar. Discription below

This is a target support specifically made for the weapons targets on Pinball Brothers Alien pinball machine. It fits over the front of the target body and fills the space in the playfield when installed. It will prevent the targets from moving out of alignment when struck on the side. it may work on other machines .

45529D7D-6557-4553-B308-73C61CA8B168 (resized).png45529D7D-6557-4553-B308-73C61CA8B168 (resized).png6A4A30D3-859D-4088-B2A0-223C3152D5DC (resized).png6A4A30D3-859D-4088-B2A0-223C3152D5DC (resized).png
#11099 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Thanks for the measurements! Prototype done, ABS filament ordered. Will check for fit on my hobbit Friday, work stuff keeping me busy this week.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looking good! Thanks for trying this out!

#11113 2 years ago

Same here. 4 episode be great and any chance you are listing the file to 3D print?

#11127 2 years ago

Is there an open USB port in the back box to tap into to add some LED tape strips around the back box to light it up better?

1 week later
#11142 2 years ago

Just got my beast brackets from Plugerboy! Super fast - Thanks! I haven’t changed out anything on my beasts before - anyone have pointers on the best / easiest way to remove the mech so I can install these? Is there a way to just remove the beast portion without removing the entire mech? Or anything I need to watch out for while removing them as there are lots of wires all over? Thanks!

3 weeks later
#11187 2 years ago

One of my slug plastics broke and I figure out why - the metal axe hits the plastic on the way back up. It also seems loose side to side. So if you are looking from directly above the sling it “wiggles” a lot in the 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock position and the recoils too far back (9 o’clock) and hits the plastic. How does one adjust this properly? Thanks!

#11188 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

Kind of. I replaced my back glass LEDs with 4 strips around the perimeter and dimmers.

What did you replace it with exactly? Did you have to splice something or just found an adapter that is plug and play? I’d like to light the back box up better.

#11193 2 years ago
Quoted from bossk4hire:

Pumped to be joining the club tomorrow!

Welcome! It’s such a great game. Now I’m biased as I own it but it really is. I haven’t played it for a little while as I got a GNR but played last night and had one of my best games and killed Smaug - man is that not one of the most satisfying shots in pinball! And into the fire is one of the coolest wizard modes. You’re gonna love it!

1 month later
#11241 2 years ago

Hey anyone using Scorbit on Hobbit? If so feel free to add me for challenges - HornerSyndrome also does anyone know how to know which people on Scorbit have which games? I have a GNR also so it would be nice to know who you can challenge and who doesn’t even have a game to try

11 months later
#11825 1 year ago
Quoted from skwal:

just to collect the dwarf that s it?

I also think of you already have Thorin then it collects you a random dwarf that you haven’t collected.

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