(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

6 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (6 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (6 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (6 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (6 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (6 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (6 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (5 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (5 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)

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#33 6 years ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

My only disappointment with the game is the current progress of the code. I just wish it was closer to completion, or at least at 1.0 level.

My understanding is that Jack is still getting final approval on the voice callouts. I'll bet it will be one hell of a patch to 1.0 when Keith gets the green light.

#40 6 years ago

According to Jack the call out voices were too close and that he had to change them. Then the licensor said the were too different so jack had to move it closer to the voice of the actor. So they are working on it. I think Gandalf is ok , I think the main issue is Smaug Bilbo and gollum

#43 6 years ago

I have no idea if the voice is the hold up

1 week later
#84 6 years ago

I have a 6/2014 order expecting ship mid to late June.

3 weeks later
#169 6 years ago

how did MM address a stuck ball?

1 week later
#197 6 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Doubt anyone has ever said, "I'm so glad I got the first ones off the line".
The positive trade-offs are getting it sooner and getting to experience the game as the code develops.

Agreed. I wanted mine to be several months into the build so that they can correct issues as they go. Same thing happened with WOZ. Just the way it works.

1 week later
#224 6 years ago

I am happy to keep my order after playing it. Some hate it - some love it. All that matters is what you think as the owner.

#261 6 years ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

Seriously. More like 2.4 years for most of us. Fingers crossed I get the call in a few weeks.

Me too. When did you order?

#291 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Check to see if u have 4 meg of ram or 8 meg in regards to your reset issue.

I think you mean 4 Gig vs 8 Gig.

Do all Hobbits come with 8 GB of system memory? By having him check are you thinking that a 4 GB stick has came loose?

1 week later
#466 6 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I already have extra balls and not really sure if JJP pinballs need to be switched out like Sterns are but at least I'm covered on that front if needed.

I want to order an extra set on pinballs as well. Which are the preferred for WoZ and TH?

#509 5 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

Did you know Millwax isn't wax? You unfortunately just put silicone all over your playfield.

amazon.com link »

So you are saying that we should just clean with novus and use a real wax? (if so what wax would you recommend)?

2 weeks later
#650 5 years ago

I am so excited to get my 'slow and boring' wide bodied pin with no shots and is a 'box of lights!'

Can't ...freakin ...wait!

#662 5 years ago

Thanks for the link - I ordered as well.

#663 5 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

I've been loving hobbit so far. One thing I wish it was easier to tell when the lockdown bar button lit for what purpose. Postponing something is much different than cashing in a score and the back glass isn't always so easy to look at in frenzy of play. I think it'd be great if the lockdown bar button was a different color for cashing in points vs postponing a mode/lock.
Got some TrueColor protectors added today

Can you tell me where you got the flipper rubbers? Also, are there any other mods you have installed?

#674 5 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I still can't believe I almost skipped over it completely after reading all the negative BS on Pinside- I realize all the time the people here favor old school Bally/Williams machines (just look at the Pinside rankings!) and Stern's, and for some reason there's a JJP hater bandwagon who loves to trash anything they do.

Same here, I was about to cancel too based on some early feedback - finally went to go play it and was a bit pissed off that I almost cancelled without playing it. If you have played it and isn't for you no worries, but if you are considering it please play it for yourself first and make up your own mind. I think it is fantastic!

EDIT: I am also a big fan of Sterns fast games too like TRON, IM, MET, and ST - TH is right up there in fun!

EDIT#2: Not pissed off at people that don't like it - pissed that I almost didn't get my own opinion first hand before cancelling.

#697 5 years ago

Is/Was it glued on?

#701 5 years ago
Quoted from scasey:

Mine has velcro holding it on.

If mine comes off that is what I would do...velcro tape can hold it well and can be removed if needed.

#754 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

Anyone want to explain the mode qualifiers? I know the ELF, MAN, DWARF, Gandalf, Radagast, and Bilbo qualify most of them. However, I don't believe that's all of them. I do remember Keith mentioning something with combining some of these in order to light some. Do they carry over from ball to ball?

My understanding is that they don't carry over, and I don't think order matters on the qualifiers - but I am not sure about that.

2 weeks later
#978 5 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I keep having to bend the left ramp tin back down. Anybody else have this problem?

Do you have the p f protector ?

#981 5 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

No pf protection on mine. I'll loosen them up some and see if that helps. Thanks guys
Oh, and TH was the hit of my 4th party hands down followed closely by woz. People loved it.

The Stern machines are great - and I like them a lot, but JJP pins are very unique and very approachable to people that are new to pinball with their modern look. WOZ and Hobbit are certainly gorgeous and fascinating pins!

#994 5 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

My Hobbit isn't supposed to be in for a couple more weeks. Anyone know when JJP will be shipping Hobbits with the pop-ups already fixed?

Have no idea - Jen used to send out monthly updates of what was going on at JJP. I haven't seen one in a while. Perhaps she will soon with where they are right now in the preorder progress and more information about the troll fixes. She also can do a cool update about the code progress (which is great). And perhaps an update on the Hobbit Manual? Is that out yet?

#998 5 years ago
Quoted from dtowndobe:

Got 1.6M last night! Knocked my daughter completely off the high score list - she's not happy about that...

I got a pool table earlier this year, and my daughter hadn't played before - but now she wins most of the time.

Oh, and the posters on the wall are telling the names of my first pins


#1033 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

With the recent code updates I would think that many of us would give this game a better rating in the top 100?
Into the fire simply ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am sure the code is just getting 'warmed up'

#1046 5 years ago

God damn light boards!

#1062 5 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

So lifted the playfield today and found 2 wood metal screws, 1 wood screw, and a larger bolt/screw in bottom. Found knocker missing the wood screw, but can't find others. Frustrating.

I plan on looking under the PF every day for a few days to inspect wear and check for and tightening loosing screws. I know others would hate the idea, but I don't mind keeping a super close eye out on those things.

Further, I don't plan on have an box opening party - it will be the day after. Opening day will be me spending hours reviewing the PF (top and bottom) and running tests. Guests will not be happy with the long delay.

#1102 5 years ago

Got the call, my SE will be here on Thursday

#1121 5 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Only the LE's have "of 1500."
SE's (Smaug editions) don't have a known set number produced.

Yeah... I think JJP actually printed the wrong deed for your pin. I'll be you can request a new one be sent.

#1170 5 years ago

On some occasions I get the spider to come up and then right back down - I know that it is a slight adjustment but not sure what. Can anyone give any details on the correction? Leaf switch adjustment I think?

#1234 5 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

After 4 months finally just beat Smaug Like dtr in lotr for the first time, I thought the game just shut down and would have to start all over. What a great "ending" for beating Smaug. Game is something else. Played into the fire twice..ended up with 1,922,723. My best game so far. After a game like that, my wrists hurt, my fingers hurt...what a workout. This was on 1.21.

So how do you kill Smaug - is it in his multiball?

#1238 5 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Smaug MB....
I did it yesterday for the first time but only knew after watching lots of footage online.

Do you have a link to a vid?

#1311 5 years ago

After getting the hobbit I will get another JJP soon. If I like Lawlors I will get that, if not WOZ RR is a definite buy for me.

#1325 5 years ago
Quoted from EricPinball:

I can not seem to accept my USB key by the pinball, but formatted correctly receive each time the same error message.
someone would have a solution
thank you

That is for full patching, this is a delta. Just extract zip to an empty USB drive and go into settings and do a USB update. The pin will reboot after and you may then remove the USB

#1382 5 years ago

Thanks JJP, glad you made the update kit! I really do appreciate it.

#1456 5 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

I went to HQ Beercade in Chicago tonight to play The Hobbit. Sadly there were a few issues :-/ The Goblin wasn't popping up :-/ The 'C' in L-O-C-K would register a roll-over only about 1 out of 10 times :-/ The ball kept getting hung up on the left ramp at the exit. Hopefully they will get the update kit from JJP and clean up these issues. Seems like it could be a fun game, just hard to play with so many issues.

Home use isn't hard to make tweaks here and there , on location it could be a bit tough to maintain though to be honest

#1487 5 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

The Sméagol has landed! LE #1253. Man this bugger is heavy!

Good stuff man, the game is fantastic!

#1534 5 years ago

True..make sure you remove the film before attaching the legs.

#1571 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Cool gold coin flipper covers from Matt it looks like...

I am not a fan of the coin flippers - but I would love Matt to make some more mods for the Hobbit. I really am glad I got the pin.

I told myself I would only get 1 pin and that is all - all I have room for. But, well, I am going to get WOZ next (soon). JJP pins are just over the top awesome in my book. Just 1 more pin and that is all

#1576 5 years ago
Quoted from iepinball:

Put this on the JJP forums but thought I'd post here too to gather more data. Wanted to ask if anyone else has a ton of left ramp rejects. So many of my shots rattle around the junction at the top then come back down either side of the ramp, quite frustrating. Flippers are at the factory-set value and are just about the right power, if not just a hair under what I'd like. Thinking that increasing power will only increase the rejections too since the clean, hard shots are the ones that reject most often.
One example, slow-motion video: https://goo.gl/photos/8MzHMcSchLYmcvRBA

I have tried multiple settings to get it dialed in. I am 1 up from default of left and 2 up on right. I find if you hit it clean it rockets up and around the ramp, but miss it and it will rattle and come back down, if you increase the strength it will rattle and go flying all over the place. Your shot needs be solid and accurate, especially when backhand flipping the ramps.

#1591 5 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

No, 1500 LEs are being produced with them numbered 1-1500
SEs were only produced up till December, I believe it was, 2014. So anyone, including distributors, could order as many SEs as they wanted until the deadline. Once the deadline past "no more SEs will be produced"! Since the SEs were a special edition and they weren't limited to a specific number the buyer(s) could pick any number that they wanted. You could select #103 or you could select #9999.

I think the number for the SE has to be below 1500 and not already taken by another SE. At least I think that is what Jen told me when I was determining my number. Seems like I recall asking if I could do my anniversary year 1997 and she said no.

I ended up with SE 835 - and there CAN be an LE 835 (I think)

#1594 5 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

so the question remains how many SE are made?

undisclosed but less than 1500

#1596 5 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

If it's "undisclosed" how would you know it's "less than 1500"?

Good point, my understanding is that if you had an LE on order you could 'convert/upgrade?' it to an SE version at no charge But had to do so before the end of 2014. And there are 1500 LEs possible. That is where my math was, but I suppose JJP 'could have' sold more than 1500 at 9000 a piece before the end of 2014 but I doubt it.

My wild ass guess is there are 648 SE pins. However, you could buy the trim, decals and gold smaug and have a replica (but the attract mode would be missing - there by exposing the fake). JJP may require you to have an SE before selling you the gold trim or decals, but I doubt it.

If you like the LE more than the SE cool - but I'll bet there will be less SEs than LEs.

#1599 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Neither are rare and will be readily available for quite some time. I would highly doubt there were more than 1000 SEs ordered by that "cutoff date", but the secrecy around the actual number really allows JJP to make 5000 SEs if they want to. Makes no difference either way. Neither are rare. Did I say that neither are rare? Just to be safe: neither are rare.

My guess was based on a 'cutoff date' actually being a cutoff date

If there really isn't one, then yeah...1500+ is possible for sure. They could also do a Gandalf SE or whatever later...

#1600 5 years ago

Either way, I doubt JJP sells more Hobbits than WOZs. In fact, I still plan on getting a WOZ next year. WOZ is an instant classic to me.

1 week later
#1750 5 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

Cliffy is now selling the hobbit protector set, I just ordered mine.

How do I order? And will they work with a PF protector on?

#1766 5 years ago

Should hobbit owners also get the rollover protectors like the ones used in WOZ?

#1768 5 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Software question. What's the deal with the mode 'the bait'
It asks you to hit the right ramp or right orbit. But it keep the 2 x beasts up so you can't hit make the shot. If you hit the beats it makes a sound but nothing happens. I think I hit the beasts 3 times each. At some point when there is 5 seconds left 1 of them went down but don't know what triggers it.

Glad you asked....I try to skip that mode if I can. I don't know how to complete it.

#1795 5 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Does anyone know what the ring button does during Arkenstone modes?

Not sure....but I would like it to be something like throw pine cone and it would register a hit on the warg

1 week later
#1938 5 years ago

When I would plunge the ball it used to make it to the upper dwarF target - now only the d or w. What do I need to do to make sure it is aligned properly to get the maximum distance?

1 week later
#2002 5 years ago

Still very happy after 2 months of ownership. The game is a good home use pin with all the modes it has - I still have to look at the book to get instruction to know what to do - some I now know (and that helps).

One thing I recommend is getting some extra drop target springs. I had 1 break and ordered 12 more to have a few extra. I have replaced 3 in total - easy to do if you have them on hand. Go ahead and order a dozen to have a few on stand by.

#2003 5 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

1.35p firmware to be shown at open house tomorrow

Hope Keith uploads this soon!

Love me some JJP updates - they really up the game every time they release code.

1 week later
#2121 5 years ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

On our game, the plunger aimed way too high, so it would not hit the ball squarely and also regularly bump into the top of the auto plunger. Caused weakness and severe inconsistency.

Mine was doing this as well. All I did was add a small amount of rolled up masking tape where the play field 'hooks' seat into the lock down bar. This allowed about 1/8 inch or so of lift. This allowed me to have a smooth plunge that actually makes it easily hit the F drop target all the time.

#2123 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Other that adding a spacer under the PF hooks, you can also raise the locking mechanism by loosening its attachment screws and moving it up slightly or reworking its holes to allow for more adjustment.
This would make for a more durable, stable adjustment. Especially for those games where the shooter rod had to be shimmed.

I look into to doing that long term...my fix was a simple, quick, no hardware adjustments fix. But your idea will be what I need to do long term to correct.

#2125 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im also thinking that the lock-down bar would benefit from some self adhesive felt in the corners that touch the side-rails, to keep from wearing them out or causing cracking/gouging of the powder coat

I agree, in fact I will probably put some there. I lean into the machine hard in that area actually.

3 weeks later
#2255 5 years ago

I just got the cliffy protectors for the hobbit - I seem to recal someone posting about the process to install them, but can't find the post. Anyone else able to find it?

3 weeks later
#2411 5 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Ah, gotcha...yeah I've seen the Arrow insert lit in Purple and kickback was also lit (possibly blinking blue/white if I'm remembering it right)...but I don't get the kickback.

I have seen the same thing happen as well. Perhaps it is a bug and the kickback should not be lit when that occurs

1 week later
#2456 5 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Why not use transparent rubber rings throughout the PF. I replaced all black/white rubber rings on my Avengers LE Hulk and Tron Pro over a year ago and have no problems. Purchase from Terry at Pinballlife.
Which is best: black/white/transparent rubber rings?

I switched out all the white rubbers to transparent. Looks and shoots great!

#2458 5 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Got any pics of transparent ones used on the main slings? I'm wondering how much of the light they pick up.

I'll take some pics tonight and post them. I have the right side done completely, and the cliffy. I have to do the left side rubbers in the top left and that cliffy to finish. (ran out of time last weekend)

1 week later
#2529 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

The left side button has no upper flipper, unlike the right, hence the harness has an extra pair of wires on the left side.

Probably correct - I think the early prototypes had a fourth flipper on the top left. I was first disappointed they made it a sling - but now I like the sling they have now. It adds some randomization - and we don't need anymore targets on this PF anyway.

2 weeks later
#2603 5 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Your words speak of wisdom I've yet to even have a taste of. I won't rag on the JJP folks for having me lift the PF so much, it's a learning experience I guess...?
Mind if I ask where the mirror black blades came from? In my head they look sick as [email protected]#&! The ones you had in the picture sure 'nuff were from tilt folks. I like them better than the gauged stock black stuff I have now but the faces on those decals don't do it for me.

Agree, those aren't from or about the hobbit or LOTR. Looks more like Warcraft or something generic. I may get mirrored blades if no one does true hobbit blades.

3 weeks later
#2756 5 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

i do wish somebody made side blades that actually look good and fit the theme and decals that look right for the stand up bare targets

The game does sometimes say shoot yellow targets, so if you did put decals on them I would recommend it make heavy use of yellow. But it could have cool design overlay graphics or what I would like is the dwarven letter equivalent for the letter for the dwarf drops, elf equivalent for the elf drops and man drops to be cursive. That way it would still 'spell' dwarf, elf, and man when dropped

But to make it simple they all could be the same decal with a cool graphic or pattern on them

3 weeks later
#2858 5 years ago
Quoted from stpcore:

Well before I could attempt to check for that servo connector Smaug started smoking in test mode (body rotation test). Called JJP support and was offered a discounted exchange for a new replacement Smaug (I am the second owner so 1 year warranty no longer applies to me). I appreciate that they were willing to work with me and not charge me full price. I do have to send my malfunctioning Smaug in once I receive the replacement.

My Smaug stopped 'talking' as well, but it did rotate properly. I found that it was an issue with the motor inside that moved the mouth up and down. I ended up having to replace it as well. Now that I have a new one I am thinking maybe I should keep the min and max closer together (not 20 apart, but more like 15 or so). I wonder if it can be turned off completely in a future update, or if setting the min and max to 100 would work? Also, JJP may need to provide just the motor to replace if it goes bad - a whole Smuag replacement is too expensive.

#2862 5 years ago

I spoke to the seller and he recommended removing the original sticker

#2863 5 years ago

I am out of town working but I received mine yesterday and plan to install the mod on Saturday

3 weeks later
#2969 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes that magnet only is used for the mode that drops the ball into the pops from the orbit shot.

Wow - good to know. That is a good mode and from now on I will use the orbits a bit to get into the barrels. I'll bet you can do more hits if you drop it from the top slowly than shooting directly into them from a flipper.

#2979 5 years ago

I have the PF protector, and it is getting a bit cloudy. I am considering removing it to reveal the super shinny PF below, but I really like an easy no hassle PF and have a chip and dimple free PF.

Should I:

1. Try to clean it somehow? If so - how?
2. Remove it and just start getting use to proper PF care?
3. Replace it with another protector?

#2987 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

The barrel figures look stock and pretty good! The others, well...not so much.

Yeah....might be a bit of figures overload to my taste. You don't want too much toy box vibe going on.

#3001 5 years ago
Quoted from stpcore:

1.90 didn't power the topper on my Smaug but after updating to 1.94 everything was OK.
I installed your lighting mods (trough and ramps) and they look incredible by the way. The ramp lighting is just stunning.
I'm on the fence regarding the ring button plate being sold right now. I wish it was in gold!

Can you post a picture? I have the ring button plate on my SE and I like it-I can send a picture of that.

#3010 5 years ago
Quoted from stpcore:

Here is a pic of the LED ramp light that mount in the back under the glass channel. I bought the RGB version from Lermods which gives me the option of setting to an individual color (in this case I set to gold although I can change it to any color instantly). I can also set the LEDs to cycle and fade between all the different colors. I think the gold color fits the theme well and really illuminates the artwork that's hidden in the back. It also plays nicely with the gold around Smaug.
Lermods has great customer service, quality mods, and speedy shipping. I would not hesitate to purchase from them again.

That does look nice in the gold light. Is there a way to change the brightness as well if you wanted to dial it back a notch?

#3043 5 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

Ok so continuing to adjust and dial in my new Smaug Edition. Popped up the play field the other day and this little fella dropped onto the metal box.......Any thoughts on it's original location?? Cheers.

Yeap...those are one of the clips that hold the springs that hold the 'top' of the beasts. (Two for each mech).

If that is off you will also have a spring off as well. It is about 1 inch.

#3046 5 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

Thanks for that, will check the springs are there too. Cheers.

If you don't find the spring in the bottom of the cabinet it may be still in the beast mech and not fallen all the way out.

2 weeks later
#3133 5 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Mine fires to the upper right flipper and through the spinner.

Mine goes in the right VUK 99% of the time. How do I turn it down a notch to have it hit the right spinner - or land right on the middle of the top flipper?

#3135 5 years ago

where did you get them...and will they hold up? Are they same weight has the 'standard' ones?

1 week later
#3158 5 years ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

Finally beat Smaug first time last night. Wow. What a show!
I hope the other modes are just as good to finish.
BTW... where is the new code!

I hope Keith keeps on developing the Hobbit code - he is doing great so far and he can take it even further. Alot of what is in the hobbit now with the modes and arkenstone modes make great use of video, sound, and lights. Really cool...

#3174 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

In test the coils just fire shortly, its a test.

The ramp diverter is used in the moon runes mode. I comes down very quick and at the right time to force it down the other ramp. If yours goes down and up quickly then it will work properly. It isn't used much yet, but I bet Keith will add more later.

2 weeks later
#3271 5 years ago

By they way - I dropped the pitch from 7.5 to 6.5 and man I can do much better now and get farther in the game. So, for you guys that can play TH for an hour set that pitch up and it will make the game harder/faster for sure.

#3297 5 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

for the price of the game new in box it should have came with it! simple as that! shouldn't have to pay $100 bucks for one.

Why should we expect a high quality print out of the manual to be free after providing a cd and having it built into to pinball software? The cost of the game is for the game.

#3301 5 years ago
Quoted from KLR2014:

Joined the club yesterday with a NIB LE # 766. Installed full cliffys and mirrorblades. Family is loving it!

Awesome! Where did you get your mirror blades?

#3315 5 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

Hi guys – still learning my newly-arrived LE and loving it, but two quick questions.
1) is there any way to delay the shoot out from Windlance when starting a mode? I looked in the settings and do not see it. Being new to the game I would love to delay the ball there as I read the mode rules on the display. To fire it myself using the Ring Button would be awesome.
2) is there really not a status update for your game when holding the flipper? Yes, the display shows a lot of where you are in the game – but there's nothing like a good status report. JJP hit it out of the park on WOZ – showing your game status on a rules map. Was really surprised to not see the same (awesome) feature on TH. What do you guys think?

Good idea on #1. As for #2 - I would 'guess' that is probably coming in a future patch.

Speaking of patch. I wish Keith and the team would give us a new build soon. I sure would like to see what they have been cooking.

2 weeks later
#3369 5 years ago

Guys I have two quick questions.

1. Should I place mylar over the metal strip in the shooting lane? Every shot has the ball hit that corner. And how about the Gollum ball save lane?

2. What is the 'hole' for next to the MAN targets at the tip of the flipper. Just noticed the other day cleaning the PF?

Mylar or not (resized).JPG
What is the hole for (resized).JPG

#3372 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Too far away, and wrong place.
Hole was for something changed leading up to production and not used.
LTG : )

Thought that could be the case - just wasn't sure. Thanks!

#3378 5 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I did mine a while back when it broke. It wasn't horrible, but just be patient.

I switched out all mine from white to transparent when they started to wear. The left side will require you to break it down quite a bit. When you get that far you might as well order the cliffy protector kit and add that while you are at it. Expect it to take about an hour.

The right side is easier to refresh the rubbers - but you will (of course) remove several of the plastics on that side too.

#3393 5 years ago

What was the process/product that you used to get that ramp cleaned up sooooo nicely?

1 week later
#3435 4 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

Anyway here's a picture of where the ball gets stuck. Happens all the time.

I have never had one stuck there before. I did once on top of a pop barrel - but the new right ramp will likely prevent that. I am with another poster - I would go to lowes and get a clear rubber that you can put under speakers and the like to prevent it from scratching the floor or bookshelf. That would likely clear that up for you and can be removed easily anytime.

#3437 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Too many air-balls and the balls can go anywhere.

True, you can get them from drop targets popping up or the beasts popping up in multi ball for sure

#3441 4 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions on the ball getting stuck. Solid suggestions. I will tone down the game a bit because it is likely coming from air balls.
Also like the idea of a removable adhesive and will experiment with that.
But I also have to say the idea of leaving the ball there and just putting another one in the game is genius! A little bit of pinball art inside the game! And trust me, that ball is going nowhere when it sitting there.
Weird it's not a common problem though – it looks like such a trap for the ball. I thought my post would be filled with a bunch of 'me too'. So the good news is that it's not a common problem and if I tone down the game a bit it'll likely take care of it. Removable adhesive will be next.
Thanks again guys!

The good news is that IF the ball comes loose you'll get another multi-ball. Which are kind of hard to get in the hobbit anyway

#3450 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its probably bent.
The black metal weldment that holds the up and down slider is of fairly soft steel.
Pull out he PF onto its maintenance rails and push up the warg mech manually.
It should have zero resistance and drop like a rock.
If it binds at all, raise the mech (push it up from the bottom) and push it towards the back of the PF a bit (bend it a little).
Be careful the metal lid is super sharp like a razor, tape the edges with masking tape if necessary.
Most of the mechs that bind seem to benefit from being bent back a little.
Do this either towards the back or towards the front in small increments until there is no binding at all.
Again properly adjusted the mech should drop like a rock.

I have had to adjust my leaf switches from time to time, and lightly bend them forward when they get a little slower to drop. But, when tuned they drop like a rock - and register hits very well.

2 weeks later
#3495 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Well, he didnt say which monday....

He didn't say for sure it would be today, just that he is considering it. I take it that it will be soon for sure.

#3505 4 years ago

Nice update - Thanks Keith.

Love the new lighting effects too. At the end of your game when smaug does a fly by and now has the lighting effect that he set the playfield on fire is freakin awesome!

#3535 4 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

I don't think a 4 player game with neighbors is going to take very long. Throw in some average players in a 4 player game, could be quite long.

From what I have seen:

1. New players have an average ball time of < 2 minutes
2. Average players have an average ball time of < 6 minutes
3. Skilled players have an average ball time of (no idea)

#3538 4 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Yeah. SDTM right after hitting the side of the spider beast (ball coming from top of PF at an angle).
It's like you guys' 3 hour games defy Murphy's Law.

Not so sure the glass was on with all those modes completed....

#3557 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Escobar:

Im tired of people being nice...accusing someone of playing with backglass off?? Have you ever thought maybe you just suck at pinball? Colonel Mustard called, he said get a clue

Settle down partner, I was just kidding man. And yes, I do suck at pinball (so, you know...I've got that going for me)

EDIT: Wait, wait a minute. Did I just get called a loser from a troll account LOL. I feel special.

#3582 4 years ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

Not sure if this was in the previous code, I can't remember... but once you lock 2 balls for Smaug multiball, Smaug awakens and follows your ball around the playfield. Much better this way...

It's been in there for a few patches - not a bad effect. Also, I think it would be good to have smaug say clips from the movie while he is doing that. (especially after the 1:40 mark)

good stuff here too....

(though he used some already - needs more )

#3589 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

The Bilbo and Smaug scene is one of the best in the entire trilogy. I'm surprised a mode featuring this scene is not in the game. The scene has a lot of dialogue from Smaug that could be used with the Smaug toy. Maybe it could be incorporated into a final wizard mode?

Maybe a mystery mode? Basically he talks to you and then you have to make a shot, then he talks some more, then you have to hit a shot...something like that...?

Or instead of a mystery mode - it will 'unlock' the Smaug dialog mode when you complete all the Bilbo modes. NO telling how far down he could go with the amazing mode based game JJP (and Keith) has got!

I am still trying to get the mode bonuses based on completed modes. Awesome stuff!

#3591 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

That sounds like a cool idea. It would be nice to have that scene represented somewhere in the game as its pretty much the main Smaug scene in the trilogy. Seeing the Smaug toy move to the lines from the scene would be awesome.

Yeah no doubt - Keith has a lot to work with and he can continue to make this pin even better. Already one of the best ever in my opinion.

#3594 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Question, while playing a big game, the right spinner stopped registering. I've had issues before with it not registering. After the game was over, I started another game and it worked perfectly. Is this a code thing, or physical problem? Anybody else notice this issue?

I haven't noticed mine stopping working during a game. I would suspect it needs adjusting. Perhaps go into testing and see if you can figure out what it may be. Lloyd may have some ideas....

#3596 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My spider head came loose again today.
I put some blue loctite on the screws upon reassembly this time. It should b fine now.
Its probably good to check all the heads for tightness each time you have the glass off for cleaning.
I lost a spring clip reinstalling the trap door somewhere, I imagine it will drop down in the cabinet.
Its a good idea to have spare clips, they are tiny and a pain to install, fortunately I have spares.

My spider came loose as well - so I put loctite on mine as well. Seems to be holding strong now. No issues with the other 3 beasts.

Good idea to keep an eye on it from time to time - those bottom beasts sit close to the flippers - and you can really nail the hell out of them.

#3602 4 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Hobbit down!
That rubber was torn from the factory install. It's the one behind the barrels.
bummer... Noticed that JJP's store doesn't have white rubbers?

I ordered my replacements from https://www.titanpinball.com/ - but I got clear (not white). And replaced them all, and got a few extra rings and flipper rubbers (which I do green on the bottom and red on top right flipper)

#3603 4 years ago

I also installed the cliffy protector kit for the hobbit - as well as switch protectors for inlanes and windlance lane.

IMG_1683 (resized).JPG

IMG_1679 (resized).JPG

IMG_1682 (resized).JPG

#3606 4 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

interesting idea! Thanks!

Good work. Wondering if I should do that too.

By they way - there reason I went with transparent (clear) rubbers was 2 fold:

1. It doesn't appear to show grey/black residue on it as bad as white does. Looks cleaner longer.
2. It makes the lights look better when it shines on them (to me)

I also switched the black post rubbers to clear as well because the black rubber (as it ages and wears) will come off and on to the play field. The clear will do that but harder to see (so cleaner look). I still go in a wax and clear the PF every month or so to keep it nice and shiny and free of debris.

#3607 4 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Good work. Wondering if I should do that too.

I think they add good protection - and I think they look cool to boot. (more metal on the PF looks nice to me - within reason of course.)

#3612 4 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Did you buy a "kit" or a bunch of them separately?

I got this for the cliffy.


For the rubbers I went into the manual and ordered the sizes they have listed. Got a few extra like 3/8 inch IDs and stuff. Ordered them separately.

http://docs.jerseyjackpinball.com/the-hobbit/Hobbit_Manual_3_0_Dec_2016.pdf (C-104 and C-105)

#3616 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Finally got the barrel lamp mods all installed. They look awesome!

They do look nice - I may get those as well. Can you take a quick pick holding the original spotlight next the barrel for scale? I am worried that if it is too large it would block too much of the playfield.

2 weeks later
#3637 4 years ago
Quoted from MarcelG:

Excuse my ignorance if this has been spoken of already. I have a Hobbit LE on location and I am experiencing these mechanical issues (see pics). The drop target coil stop studs and drop target "latch edges" are breaking away. I can epoxy the edges back no problem and they hold, but the studs are pretty much sheared off and unfortunately, welded to the frame.
I have already called JJP and they have sent over new DT mechs, but I know this will happen again as the machine in question gets A LOT of play.
Has anyone had a machine/weld shop re-weld studs to the frame ?
Thanks to any reply.

I have had to replace two banks - just due to this. I hope JJP will correct and make those more resilient and allow existing mechs to be refurbished for a reasonable price

#3639 4 years ago
Quoted from sebseb12:

With the code 2.00, the game is amazing.
For me it takes 2 more things:
-a grand finale (after completing the 31 modes, the 3 mini wizard mode, shoot down the dragon)
- get harder access to the mini wizard mode: example (in addition to multibead beast, ereaborn ,,): for the 1st mini wizard mode obligation to complete 2 modes; For the 2nd: obligation to finish 4 modes; For the 3rd: obligation to finish 6 modes

I think the 'arrows' that light up when you complete should go to 2 for the next one, and 3 for the BOFA. It would look cool on the backglass monitor and simple to understand. Perhaps to get the final mode you would also need to kill Smaug.

#3664 4 years ago

I had a protector on my THSE and cut if off after a year and it looks and plays better. To prevent too much wear I wax it every month or two. Keeps the game shiney, fast, and protected. Also the game is brighter due to the hazy used protector out of the way. I am getting a WOZ one day and I wont get the protector on it either, but will do the radcals

#3674 4 years ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

I am having a problem with my playfield protector lifting in the center of game where lock rollover buttons are. Anyone else having this problem? Any remedy's besides taking it off? I have loosened anything that seems to be holding it down and then flattened it out . This seemed to do the trick until i checked on it later in the evening and it is floating above the buttons again.
Thanks for any advise in advance.

Mine started looking a bit scuffed up - and I could not stand that I could see dust and debris under the protector but could not wipe it off. So, I cut the protector off - and I have liked the look so much more. And when I see dust - I can just wipe it off

I just novus 1 it a bit, and add some good wax, let dry, buff to a shine and keep on playing. I do this about every 2 months if it needs it or not. Makes the game fast as hell for about 20 games or so, and then settles down a bit to playable speeds. Overall after having PF protectors once I doubt I will get them again.

Oh, and PF looks so much more colorful and vibrant without looking at it through plastic that dulls it, and I think reflects some of the GI lighting washing out the PF even more.

EDIT: If I had one on location I would probably get the protector - and when I brought it home for good I would remove it, and have a brand new PF. In home environments you will care for it properly so I don't think the protectors are needed there. If you are concerned with an area of the PF use mylar (not cover the whole PF with plastic). Just my 2 cents.

1 week later
#3704 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I've never had it trap there. What's the pitch at?

I haven't either. How does it get up there?

3 weeks later
#3759 4 years ago
Quoted from attack7:

I've got an issue with a drop target I'm hoping someone can give me advice on how to fix. One of the DWARF (the W) drop targets doesn't consistently stay up when raised. If I push up the plunger that goes through the coil manually, it doesn't stay raised. If I push on the plastic piece behind the drop target that breaks the site line of the opto, it does stay up. I haven't yet unscrewed the bank of drop targets to take a closer look, but thought I'd seek advice before messing around in there.
Any suggestions?

I have had that happen 2 times now. The issue is that there is a black plastic 'ridge' that the drops will sit on when raised up. When hit it will push back off the ridge and the spring will pull it down (drop it). I have found that if it doesn't stay up well (or at all) it is because that black plastic ridge is broken. My understanding is that you can't fix it - and have to replace the entire drop target assembly.

1 week later
#3773 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have lost count of how many times I couldnt make the "One Ring" shot under pressure...
The game is amazing!

I think it would be cool if it took 2 shots to the right ramp to complete the mode (to make it a bit more challenging). There seems to be enough video to do a looping in during those two shots. Maybe hit the goblin first (to make the ring drop) and then the right ramp to have Bilbo pick it up.

It would also be cool if that mode - once completed - would automatically charge the ring (if not already) - or light golem.

#3775 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I'm hoping that we see another code update by or at expo with a super wizard mode!

I think Keith has a few other goodies in mind as well - but he is probably very busy on other projects. I am still certain he can continue to elevate the code on hobbit.

1 week later
#3789 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Oh, I get it now. I was trying to change the mode after hitting the right ramp.

If the left ramp is lit book, you can turn the pages with the flippers after you shoot the left ramp.

1 week later
#3825 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Thanks. And how do you spell RACE?

I would change the instruction on that to 'hit all letters' to qualify each race modes. -or something to that effect.

#3828 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Why do you care? Look at the date on the back of the machine for "born on".

Also, I bet you can call JJP and give them the serial number and they will look it up and get the LE number and build date.

#3830 4 years ago

Hey guys, my captive ball will sometimes not work. 50 percent of the time when I hit it - it will do as it should. Other times I can nail it straight on and it just bricks off of it and doesn't budge the captive ball at all. I took it out and it looks straight to me. So I but it back and still same behavior. I notice when I hit it more from the side - especially from the top flipper it always works - but straight on - 50/50. Anyone else having this happen - if so, how did you resolve?

#3833 4 years ago

Great advise guys - I was going to clean and wax the PF and change out the flipper rubbers. So I will do the above to the captive ball area to get that working 100%.


#3837 4 years ago
Quoted from attack7:

I'd also check to see that the plastic that sits above it isn't interfering with the movement of the free-rolling ball.

Update: There is mylar on inside the newton ball path - so it does sit on mylar already. I slightly pushed out the guide rails and the ramp sides that is close and it seems to be working much better now. So I will play with it like this a few days and see if it is smooth as butter now.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions!

#3839 4 years ago

Anyone recognize this clear broken piece. I found it in the bottom of my cabinet when I was replacing a spring. It is not from the beast ball blockers. Any thoughts?

IMG_1854 (resized).JPG

IMG_1855 (resized).JPG

#3842 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Is that from one of the beast switch guards?

No - they all seem to be intact and not broken. I checked those first. All the plastics on the playfield look OK. I think it must be something under the playfield but not sure what.

I may post this on the JJP google group to see if it gets more JJP eyes on it.

#3845 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I mean, not the ball trap fix, but the clear plastic that keeps the beast leaf switches from turning sideways?

I'll check and report back - thanks!

#3847 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I mean, not the ball trap fix, but the clear plastic that keeps the beast leaf switches from turning sideways?

You are right - it is from the two pieces that sandwich the leaf switches on both sides to keep the nice and vertical. I will need to remove the popup mech and replace it. I'll post pictures when I take it off for all to see. It it the goblin BTW. I'll post pictures later.

Edit. Best I can tell before I take it off is that there is just one clear piece that sits on the left side facing them.

#3852 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

If you order one you might as well order a couple.
This is one piece that should have been made out of black delrin imho...

I ordered 4 just in case. I'll take pics and post of the repair next weekend

#3883 4 years ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

had 4 Smaug Multiballs, made it through barrel escape and still didn't kill him....yet.

You will. Took me almost 10 months before I did. And now I can do it in less than 30 games or so, which means about once a weekish

2 weeks later
#3918 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Has anyone heard anything out of Expo about Hobbit code?

Could someone at the conference ask about a release date for TH code? I know they have probably been working hard on DI and PoTC for the past few months to get those working well. But I know Keith and team can put a few finishing gems and polish into TH.


#3922 4 years ago

after seeing JJPOTC I noticed that the targets had stickers on them. I with TH had stickers for mystery and the dwarf targets, and not just empty. I am sure JJP can do them and allow us to buy them.

#3924 4 years ago

Yes. that is pretty good. Can you share the images and I can print them to sticker/decals?

1 week later
#3972 4 years ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Did you try the adjustments in the service menu ? You can put values for up and down there.

That is a good way to test - and observe behavior. It may be the motor is shot.

1 week later
#3995 4 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Yep game is off, I am about to get to work! Not too sure how to put a meter on the connector, but I will see if any wires need attention.

Once you get the assembly off you may find a wire my be cut or frayed. The biggest pain is removing the top (trap door metal) of the mech (so be careful not to lose a spring - there are two - one on each side). Removing from the PF after that is a breeze.

#4005 4 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

White wire is severed to the leaf switch behind the beast's head, problem solved!

So what's your next move? Can you fix the wire without replacing it?

#4021 4 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

I posted this on the JJP Facebook site – but was worth sharing with my brotheren here!
Again, more innovation that just blows me away. I was working on WOZ and noticed that the playfield lights are coordinated with the logo images. Haven't checked my Hobbit, but I'm sure it's the same. Crazy.

The Hobbit does this as well - I bet DI does too (but can't confirm)

When I see activity on this thread I get excited thinking there was a code update

#4028 4 years ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Much simpler to just stand behind the pinball machine

And easier still if you are in front of the pin

1 week later
#4042 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

Has anyone needed to adjust their Windlance Coil? Mine seemed to fire too hard, and the ball would go into the Radagast hole. I tried adjusting it last night with some luck (gave it a little less, down 3 I believe). Didn't get to try it against smaug, but it did serve the ball up nicely to the flipper in the mode where you need to shoot the right ramp that feeds the windlance for a smaug shot. Finished that mode for the first time last night.

I had to dial mine down as well - or it would just fire into the right vuk hole when it should fire to the right orbit and be right on top of the top right flipper. That makes for a very cool combo shot into the dwarf targets. Keith gives you a little grace period to allow you to have the ball come down and fire from the lower flippers, but I think he should shorten the timer a few seconds to make the player use the top flipper for that shot.

#4047 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Yes, the free qualifiers don’t count and you have to consume and re-earn them to get it.

That is the reason you can only get it on ball 1. I think you will spot a missing qualifier for balls 2 and 3 before you launch it.

#4070 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

You still have posts on your outlanes?

He did open them up as much as possible, without removing them

2 weeks later
#4099 4 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Ordered cliffys today. Better safe than sorry I figured.

Good stuff - that left VUK cliffy is a pain to get in - but I am glad it's there.

1 month later
#4218 4 years ago
Quoted from ls1chris:

Hey fellas , was just south in Mexico and found these cool letter openers I had bought to use as mods for my hobbit machine. The scale is a little big but the quality is stunning! They are made in Spain , later on I will try to find the manufacturer

They look pretty cool - but not sure where you can place ALL of them on the PF without it looking a bit like a porcupine. Maybe go with one (like Sting), but where would it go? Shooter lane maybe? Perhaps the ring would look ok on the Bag End plastic? Maybe Thorins blade on the captive ball plastic?

Interested to see what you come up with.

2 weeks later
#4229 4 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

The code itself is really quite linear which can make the game feel samey i.e. every Arkenstone mode is qualified the same way

I feel strongly that Keith and team are going to bring the code along nicely. But to your point - the modes are awesome, but I think the rinse and repeat for qualifying the Arkenstone modes is a bit underwhelming. Once I get into the fire I definitely feel I am in the wood chopping stage to get the next one.

Basically I feel like you take a breath and internally just say 'Again' and then do the same steps all over again. It would be awesome if Keith could shake that up and have different ways to qualify - almost like you got to the next level in the journey and now the game changes a bit. I have a few ideas, but I think Keith and team will come up with something better.

#4235 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

If you "attempt back stab" using the ring button option, the ramp diverter goes down. Maybe award extra points if you accomplish doing the U turn and do actually back stab the beast on that side of the playfield.

I didn't know that - are you sure the attempt will make the diverter go down? I will have to check on that

1 week later
#4282 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Just popping in to say that I would love to kick whoever designed the beast mech cover/spring/clip system squarely in the NUTS!!!

I have to have my wife or son help when I need to remove it or put it back on

2 weeks later
#4307 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did you try raising them a little ?
LTG : )

Agree, simply adjust the bottom white/clear plastic screw under each drop target to raise or lower.

3 weeks later
#4412 4 years ago

Every code update from JJP makes the pin much more amazing. Can’t wait!

#4437 4 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I don't have a Hobbit so I haven't really spent any time in this thread.
But I CANNOT POSSIBLY be the only person who looks at the playfield and can't help but see THIS.
This has to have been mentioned a thousand times already, RIGHT??

I have never even remotely noticed that before...interesting though.

#4443 4 years ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

I've encountered a problem with the LOCK rollovers. The O is no longer registering. Likely just a switch needing adjustment. However, when I lift the playfield, the lock switches are buried under lots of other stuff. Anyone have any suggestions on the procedure to follow to get to these switches?

I need to adjust the height of mine to lower them a tad. Once I looked under the play field closely where they are I just left them alone and put the glass back on. I am not ready to take that much time to remove that much stuff to get to them.

2 weeks later
#4498 4 years ago

Ok - I have an idea that I would like to share. Many feel that The Hobbit has a bit too many multiballs. So here is my suggestion around the mode locks.

I think you can continue to lock the balls (up to 3) for mode locks - BUT in order to qualify the multiball you have to collect all the dwarves at the race (Dwarf, Elf or Man) BEFORE the mode you start.

For example, if you start a mode that requires DWARF to unlock it you must have collected the 4 dwarfs those drops protect. If you have you will get the multiball on mode start - if not you lose those locks and the mode will not add any balls. You would need the 3 at the ELF and 3 and the MAN to get multiballs on those modes.

You can also use color to tie it together (around the dwarfs and mode hex icon). So the dwarves in the bottom left corner would have - let's say - RED lines around the group of dwarves that correspond to the DWARF drops, blue for ELF and green for MAN.

The idea would allow you to both get fewer mutiballs on modes - and allow a fun element of unlocking the multiball to make it more satisfying that just hitting the right ramp to start a mode. And thanks to the book turning feature - you would be wise to start a mode that you have qualified the mode locks for, instead of a mode that you have not.

What about the Gandalf, Bilbo, or Radagast only modes? Then you won't need to collect dwarves for those, and it will use the mode lock as it is now. Also, to make it harder - you can require the player to collect the dwarf first (purple light), and the hit it again (yellow) light to lock it, much like the beast mechs turn yellow to meet the beast mode multiball.

#4517 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I adjusted my roll overs when it was new to compensate for a low inertia ball once in awhile.
Other than that I agree the rollovers are set pretty good as far as height from the factory.
I did have to close the gap on two of them though to make them more sensitive, fast-moving balls wouldn't activate them at all initially.

I need to lower my rollovers too. I would like a good step by step on how to adjust them if anyone would mind sharing how. Pics on adjusting on hobbit specifically a plus

#4518 4 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I need to lower my rollovers too. I would like a good step by step on how to adjust them if anyone would mind sharing how. Pics on adjusting on hobbit specifically a plus

I did find this - and it may help (especially for how to correct the beast switches)

But I guess I just need to get in there an learn how the rollovers work on JJP/Hobbit machines. I guess getting to them is going to require a fair amount of tear down?

Anyway, here is the link: http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/pinball-switches-fixing-adjusting/

#4533 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Perfect picture!
We gotta get you a Houdini to play with!

The plastic 'square' that protects the leaf switch on the spider broke for me too. I talked to JJP and ordered 4 (just in case it happens again) - and replaced the one that was broke.

#4535 4 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Goronic - so is it possible to just buy these from JJP?

Sure did - call JJP. Awesome support.

See The Hobbit Manual See Pages: C-50 and C-51

Item/Part Number: 28 c) | 10-0113-00 | Pop-Up Character Switch Protector
Item/Part Number: 12 | 30-0055-00 | Pop-Up Character Switch Locator

TheHobbitSupportRocks (resized).png

#4551 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I dont think replacing the whole assembly is in order.
The little pc board and the servo are easily replaceable parts.
The whole assembly comes out pretty easy for testing.

Hopefully you are right - do you know the part to order from JJP to replace the servo?

#4554 4 years ago

So it looks like part #: 23-5007-00 ?

#4563 4 years ago

I had two friends over to play pinball for the first time in over 20 years. We had a blast and played Hobbit and drank bourbon from 9 PM to 2 AM. They absolutely were blown away with the way pinball looks and plays today. Amazing lights, sounds, and music...they were both in their early fifties and were smiling and laughing like kids.

It took a few games to get the rules down, and then they couldn't get enough!

#4579 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

Does anyone's Smaug ball lock magnet actually stop the ball? I can't think of the last time mine did.

Mine stops it 99 times out of 100. Seems like it only misses it when the ball is going really fast. Be careful testing it - as I burned mine out quickly and had to replace it.

#4596 4 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Played an epic game of Hobbit last night making it to the Five Armies (unfortunately Smaug survived my failed attempt to kill him along the way) with my daughter calling out the shots. It got me thinking. Do I really want this game to change with the code update? It does seem that once you make it past the Five Armies and have played all Arkenstone modes, there should be something else and then of course, a definitive Wizard mode for completing all Arkenstone modes and killing Smaug (+/- all modes...that would be a major undertaking). But I don't know if I want a change to the current ruleset that may change how Arkenstone modes are qualified, etc. I had a blast last night. I was setting things up to stack or not stack based on what I had left. I was locking two balls in Smaug and then starting an Arkenstone mode so that when it was finished, I'd only have one lock left (since they get progressively harder as you go). I think that what I'd like added is some different scoring potential. I guess when I feel I can master the game, then I can try to maximize the score. Right now, score doesn't really matter, I'm more focused on progression. I've only completed Into the Fire and have been one shot away from completing the victory laps. I've not completed Barrell Escape or Five Armies. So, right now I have plenty of goals left. Just some thoughts as I know a lot of people have said they wanted a change in the current ruleset. I thought I did, but after last night, no...I don't think I do. Just add a wizard mode and a Valinor-ish wizard mode for those who really want a lofty goal to achieve. In any case, this game is nothing but a great time. I've had it for over a year now, and it just feels so good to get into it and it is pure ecstasy to fall into the zone and have an epic game. Truly feels like a battle. Last night in Five Armies my daughter shouted, "now bash 20 beasts!" Holy smokes, I thought, that's a lot of beasts to kill...felt like I was fighting a war...or a battle for the mountain. This game truly puts you in the story.

You have good points, but I think I would like a slightly different process for qualifying that would keep the rinse and repeat down. Love the modes - but hate having to do the same things over for each mini wizard mode. I welcome anything that JJP does to enhance the game.

#4598 4 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

To be honest I don't think the core of the game, which is what you are describing, will change. I just hope it will be enhanced/deepened/integrated, in addition to the wizard mode being added.
Some variety would be nice though... after a huge game I sometimes can't bring myself to press start and do nigh-on exactly the same thing again. I hope a code update can weave in some