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Quoted from pinballinreno:My DWARF target assembly fell down last night.
The 2 screws on the left side had backed out and were waiting for me, together, on top of the computer.
I have about 400 plays on it.
So, next time you lift the PF, check the tightness of these screws. The aggressive motion leads to looseness I guess. I was thinking that they might have used a T-nut and blue locktite on this maybe in production.
I glued them in with titebond 3 and toothepick ends. They are tight now and as with flipper baseplate screws gluing them will help a lot.
my buddies game the screws and plate fell of the ork pop up.(the upper right pop up) the two screws and plate that hold the head! jack wheres the Loc-tite?
Quoted from Twilliams:I have sent a repair request to jersey jack but they never responded. !
been hearing a lot of this lately seems like the JJP repair tag thing needs some attention
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes, Smaug™ is a dragon, very tough to kill
go for the missing scale! lol
Quoted from whthrs166:Congratulations! Your gonna Love It. Make sure you check the Smaug Lock drop Zone (where the ball drops from the ramp to the hole) for Mylar or a protection against the ball impact on the playfield. Mine had nothing there and it wouldn't take long to start hammering the play field. Also since you have Rad Cals, make sure you don't use the metal cabinet protectors it comes with ( if they haven't changed it) either add anoth set to what it has or take them off and use the thicker plastic ones. If you don't, the legs will rub on the (thicker) Rad Cals and Mark and cause them to buckle. It happened to me.
got pics of the "buckle"?
Quoted from RTS:JJP gave a 12/31/14 deadline for Pre-orders (as an option) to switch their LE order to a Smaug Special Edition, saying after 2014 customers would no longer have the option to switch.
Technically, they never officially limited the number of Smaug. It's very possible they may decide to re-run them since there was never a stated limit to the number they could produce.
Logically, JJP will produce as many as they can sell if there is a market for them.
Hell, they may even decide to make an 80th anniversary SE edition next year. The book was first published in 1937. It worked for Woz.
At this point in time, only JJP knows how many customers ordered a Smaug SE, and how many Special Editions they might choose to make in the future.
I've noticed the apron card on LE's says " 1 "of 1500 (respectively.) and the the smuag aprons just have the #. any chance JJP will step up and clarify this?
Quoted from Banker:THSE was delivered today. No issues out of the box. Plays great!
Buddy delivered mine yesterday Thanks BUDDY!
Quoted from VolunteerPin:I was texting Buddy last night as my #151 is on the truck with yours and Bankers. Asked him if any chance I'd get mine this weekend (originally told me Monday) and he said no because he had already been on the road for 38 hours!!! Now if that isn't customer service I don't know what is! Doughslingers is the man.
he's got a LUCI on that truck!
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Well, Hobbit is in route to my house right now. Should be here in the next 30-60 minutes I would guess. Being delivered by Buddy or maybe one of his henchmen. Woohoo! very excited.
you got Buddy out of the DRIVE in? LOL your going to Love your new Hobbit!
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Hobbit is home. No major issues out of the box. Few thoughts:
I did tighten a lot of the screws under the playfield about a quarter turn just to make sure I didn't lose anything. Saw at least one screw missing so I put one in.
The new left habit rail is installed and no balls stuck In 5 games I played. Did have some air balls just from generally fast play.
I did not level the game so unsure of my current pitch. On factory settings I could easily hit either ramp from either flipper.
Got Smaug multi ball and I think the beast one but honestly hard to look up and see what's going on.
Spring tension on shooter seems perfect with stock screw so far.
Changing skill shots with ring button is a neat idea.
Can't get my back glass off to put the 1/2 CTO filter which is really needed. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. It's like it is still locked even after I've turned the key. Any suggestions here are appreciated.
Can someone explain how to actually start a book mode? I can flip through the pages to see what is ready to start but not sure how to actually begin one.
Extra ball is neatly done. Not sure how I activated it but cashing it in and scoring it was fun.
The gold dragon is okay but I think I might like the red one better.
Sound and music is epic.
The deed of title shows #151 of 1500 LE even though this is a Smaug. Not sure if that is a typo or if we can read anything into that as far as production numbers go. I thought there was not a preset number of SE being made.
It's 1 am now and need to get to bed. So far this is great and not floaty at all.
That's interesting with the 151 of 1500 my deed just has game #360
Quoted from VolunteerPin:My hobbit has it but not the new pop up fix. It works great.
I have game 360 and it has new style rails seems they moved the pop ups closer as I have not had an issue with trapped balls . Also not sure but the faces look larger LOL over all game plays smoooooooth!
Quoted from FalconPunch:Looks like 1.30 firmware has book mode multiball.
Looks like before you shoot a mode start you can shoot either orbit and virtual lock a ball. Then when you start the mode instead of being 1 ball, it's 2 or 3 depending on how many balls you lock
is 1.30 released?
Quoted from doughslingers:It was a pleasure meeting you and your wife. I must say your pool was very tempting as it was so hot. Thanks for being so helpful and kind and letting me relive some of my pin youth with Badcats. I do miss the meows.
Buddy thanks again! You forgot to mention your cousin got treated BY the DR. "Dude". LOL anyway your welcome to stop by and play BC again when your in the area as "you are one Bad Cat." "Meow Meow Meow Meow Meow"
Quoted from BladeFury:Here you go! Un-boxing, few mods added right away, and LED lighting! Sorry I'm partial to the quality of PDI glass so put that in and out goes the Invisiglass...flipper gold covers, mirror blades, lit flipper buttons, lit legs, lit shooter assembly, LED's under and back of cabinet, LED's under top part of back play field area and front near flippers, red coin door eject buttons, Red Ring Shooter rod, powered Subwoofer, and few other little detail stuff on way! Really would like to find a Red Start button to replace yellow...anybody got an idea where I could find one? All this done before I turned it on for the first time . Time to start playing this bad boy!! Your wait will be worth it!!!!! So glad I didn't bow out...pic link below
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/paclcwrhepm0rfc/AAAgYO7ajRvshC0_-uMtr7Xsa?dl=0
i added the ring shooter rod to my game as well had to change original spring though.
Quoted from sebseb12:The magnet behind smaug it is programmed in the game?
In tests, it works but in the game, never seen
1.30
Quoted from halpain24:Man. This code is great. Game is so exciting now. I'm actually taking down my for sale thread. I just got into the fire mode. Didn't really know everything that was going on but what I did notice was great. This code is a huge upgrade.
so the septic will back up?
Quoted from lukewells:It's all good news until he tells you that if you have the bad wireforms, you need to pay for a new one......
they should be free to the owners of games that came with out the corrected wire form and $89 dollars for any one who wants a spare one. my game has the new wire form i don't have the beast plastics though!
Quoted from Razorbak86:I completely agree with you. The replacement should be provided to you free of charge.
Nevertheless, you can fix your wireform pretty inexpensively. First, install the post that Rob referred to. Second, cut off (or grind off) those nubs on your wireform with a Dremel rotary tool to eliminate the ski jump effect. Third, bend the loop up a little with a pair of pliers. That should solve the problem.
so we should be taking a dremel an pliers to our $8,000 dollar games?
Quoted from pinballinreno:The game was dropped. Hard.
The foam block stuck the the far end of the PF was supposed to help in case of a small drop.
But in these cases the games were obviously dropped hard, either from the truck hitting a huge bump or a forklift driver dropping them.
JJp will send you all of the parts that were damaged in shipping.
The chipped PF can only be fixed with some clear painted on or a PF replacement.
This really sucks, I would make a claim with the carrier and JJP.
problibly off a truck with no lift-gate! I'D WANT A NEW GAME being thats what was paid for not a damaged one.
Quoted from mbelofsky:There are two brass screws that look like they could be adjustments but I don't see what they could adjust. Thanks. Michael
mike go for it! thats what fixed mine!
Quoted from koops:As this is my first pin that doesn't actually have armour around the flipper buttons what are peoples opinions about what wear is going to occur around them? I'd seen other sterns that quickly wear away the decal paint near then.
Seeing the rails is pretty unique is really isn't an option to replace them.
radcals
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:Talked to frank today, wow..... not really sure he should be in customer service, very nervous, stutters a lot, seems extremely flakey!
Frank couldn't be a nicer guy! very intelligent on his game and very personable.
Quoted from paynemic:So, nobody seemed alarmed about my beast mech breakdown, but I think there is a serious design flaw and I think it will affect many people. Here are some pics. You
Should probably all look to see if this is happening. It definitely wasn't from wires shifting during shipping. They looked to be zip tied right into this spot. And the mech definitely smashes the wires into the new glowing bar that prevents the ball trap.
Not trying to stir the pot. Still love my hobbit, but I think you should all look. It would be helpful to me if someone posted a pic of where their wires are routed because I'm not sure there's a way to avoid this.
Quoted from Spencer:Also, my game is signed on the translite in gold sharpie by Jersey Jack,
My game is also signed on the translight and the back box. Jack said he randomly signs while walking though the factory.
Quoted from Spencer:The back box, sure. The translight, not a huge fan. Think I'll be removing it. Personal opinion I guess.
it is rare as Jack only randomly signs them. you may want to offer trading translights with some one who would appreciate the signature.
on second thought get that alcohol spray, make less signatures available .
Quoted from Spencer:Guess I'll order the kit.
yes do ! the pop up fix looks good lit up! and the dark flaps are spring steel the shinny ones are stainless.
Quoted from crwjumper:I stand corrected!
on the SE the game # does not reflect the sequence it was made they are requested or assigned by JJP randomly. the serial number reflects consecutive build numbers. mine ends in 318 but game is numbered 360 .
they just don't say how many SE's are made. I asked jack and he said about 850 ish. I guess only Time will tell.
Quoted from Metalzoic:Mine is numbered on the Apron as Smaug game # 1111
what is the serial # just the last 3 digits i am sure it doesn't match and its most likely 850 or less (last three)
example: 08713300
Quoted from Jeekayjay:Does anyone have inserts that are NOT all shattered looking?
Nope
Quoted from fitzpatricksrus:Anyone have advice on how to solder this puppy back on? It's for the "O" in "LOCK" and it's behind a huge mass of wires (what isn't in the Hobbit). I can hardly get in there and push it in place. Assuming I do find a way to hold it in place, I worry that if I go in with a soldering iron and slip it will melt half the wiring in the machine in the process. Suggestions?
You need one of these
Quoted from Jeekayjay:Damnit!
i had one break at the pops and blocked the upper lane.
Quoted from docdeath:Those are plastic flipper bats, probably white, with gold paint. With time, the paint may chip off! It happen to me! A purest would order metallic bats (stainless steel) and have them powder coated.
NOT!
Quoted from Ransom99:Aloha! ^___^
I was worried I was getting in over my head owning a pinball machine but this place seems to have many knowledgeable friendly folks... I think I'll be okay. I got my LE TH this past Tuesday direct from JJP after a little over a year of waiting. I've read through most of the thread and the stories I've read about people waiting longer than me totally bummed me out. It wasn't until I reached out to Jack directly that I got a favorable reply via email. A day after reaching out to him my machine was being shipped.
I checked the shipping box, the packing envelope and the smaller box with the loose parts inside the shipping box... there is no machine # sticker like other folks have on their aprons. My machine number is #910 but the "deed of title" paper I got has a game # 596 of 1,500. I'm thinking it might be that I chose my number and that's why the numbers don't jive but since there's no # other than the s/n on the machine itself, I can't confirm...
It's 11pm so I don't think turning my machine on for the first time is a good idea in regards to being courteous to the neighbors but do I take it one step further and just wait until this new software update comes out? Reading through the thread says that one's coming out real soon. What do you folks think? Wait? Perhaps do some known beneficial tweaks until then?
p.s. mfg date 11/01/16
play it the neighbors won't mind. enjoy! id contact JJP about your numbering and I am sure they will square it up for you. GL with your game its one of the best!
Quoted from FalconPunch:So does anyone have a machine with a number less than 10?
LE or SE?
Quoted from Ransom99:Small update. I've popped the playfield back to check my mech wires. The adjustments seems to be staying in place, thumbs up. My right wire track has only trapped my ball once out of maybe... 10 times. The noise I'm still trying to pinpoint. I've gone so far as to unplug the speaker and sub cables but the sound is still there. Irritating.
» YouTube video
Maybe someone else has this going on?
mine has this same issue since day one. Frank and vince said possibly a bad audio cable but i haven't had time to track it down.
Quoted from crwjumper:Got a new G.C. Tonight. 1,699,054,490. Also got a new high "X Champion" score. Love the "X Champion" score scroll!
» YouTube video
I guess this was meant for the walking " dead Hobbit" thread.
Quoted from crwjumper:About the speaker "popping" - I've never heard it. Some have speculated that it's a software issue but if so I should have heard it. I bet it's hardware related. Are there others out there who have never heard the popping?
I have had the poping / crackeling noise since day one. Very noticeable at start up or when game is idle between attract modes. Music sound seems to drown it out. It's the one thing that I am most disappointed with.
Quoted from EricHadley:Mine frequently has a lot of static too, though strangely not always. Must be something loose in there
I've gone thru the connectors and talked with frank and victor. so at this point living with it.
Quoted from Lermods:Thinking about getting a hobbit. Can someone please tell me what the maximum height is with the legs off, head faded down? I have just under 31" of room in my 2016 pilot. Thx.
come over and play mine anytime! ill even let you play DR dude and W?D LOL
Quoted from Blackstorm:Today my buddy got the hobbit smog. I've never played this game before and thought it was great but the fourth game in I had an awesome game that lasted roughly 45 minutes to an hour and game just stopped and the balls drained like when you beat medieval madness and was showing a clip of the dragon and it said you beat the smog. The game then fired back up into a multi-ball. Just was wondering did I beat the game or was there more to it
MUCH more to it! you just scratched the surface!
Quoted from VolunteerPin:more audio clues to know what to shoot for.
seriously? what more can they do?
you have the book, color changing lights indicating shots to be taken,huge TV showing whats going on(all around the video )and shows what modes you started and completed. not to mention Gandalf telling you what to shoot for.
Quoted from docdeath:Last night played multiple games with no issues and have had no issues with the goblin pop up since getting the game. All of a sudden goblin pop up will try and pop up when the goblin switch is activated but doesn't pop all the way up and stay up. Investigated multiple things; manually pushing goblin up, it will slide up and down with no restrictions. The wires are free and not catching. Tried to fire the coil in coil test mode and it fires but doesn't pop up as far as the other pop ups do. If I slightly push up manually on the goblin(less then an 8th of an inch) it will pop up when firing the coil in test mode. Again, moving the goblin up manually there is no restrictions. Playfield was put down and played a game and it worked for about six pop ups and then went back to it wanting to pop up but doesn't stay up (you can here the coil fire and it moves up about a 1/4th of an inch then falls back down). I tried putting in a couple of washers to pitch the mechanism, sliding the mechanism to the left as the top right corner of the goblin appears to have a corner that could possible be hitting the side of the playfield but visibly inspecting the mechanism(sliding it up and down) the movement looks like it is not catching any where and it moves freely. Now when the game is played and goblin switch is activated it will try and pop up once(moves about a 1/4th of an inch falls down) then pops up and stays up. It has symptoms of the mechanism binding or catching but manually sliding it up and down it is not catching or binding. Wondering what I should try next?
Also; In coil test number 7, what is this the "coil hold"? It does nothing when activated. All other pop ups are the same, you can fire the individual coil then the next test below is "coil hold" and it doesn't do anything...
do you have the pop up plastic fix kit? if so i had similar issues and i had to file / chamfer the edges of the plastics as the goblin, orc and spider hit them. especially the goblins "eye bump". you will find when play field is up everything slides nice but in play field down position the faces rub and hang up. GL hope this helps.
Quoted from docdeath:LTG and Freddy thank you for the speedy replies. I have inspected the goblin face and the plastic fix. I believe the sensitivity of the leaf switch on the face was to close and pulling it back a bit has fixed the issue. Have played multiple games and no issues! Its time to open bottle of wine!!!
yes but the face will move forward again. remember its a BASH fest! LOL
Quoted from indybru:I've had the game about 3 weeks, I think its the cats a_ . The problem is you guys are too good. I feel very fortunate to own and play this pin. Looking forward to killing Smaug, and getting to Barrel escape, I'm just not that good of a player.
Love it.
it will happen give it time and keep your eye on the ball!
Quoted from FLpinball:Black Arrow in the house and I could not be more pleased!!! Zero issues out of the box. Special thanks to Mike at Automated for a outstanding transaction! Now if I can only learn how to play!!!
Pics or it didn't happen!
Quoted from docdeath:I agree. My dwarf Thorin is on Hobbit steroids. It measures 5" tall, not 6". Even though it's a beauty, it's too tall. I'm in the process of acquiring a shorter version of similar quality/detail.
and it blocks the view of the gate, which drops in certain modes
Quoted from Ransom99:My hobbit has been sitting idle for far too long >__< I need to get her up n running again.
Forgot I had these sitting in the parts packaging.... where do these even go?
key fobs (plastics)
Quoted from docdeath:Better sized Dwarf Thorin installed! Purchased from ModFather. The Collector Series of Thorin figures found on Amazon are either too small or too big. ModFather's figure is of perfect size with no obstructive view of the gate & blue target under feet. The figure comes with an attached metal screw tab for anchoring to PF. In reality, it's essentially impossible to use for installation. Use glue dots applied to bottom of feet, insert figure and press down. The figure is of high quality in detail and workmanship, matching that of the Collector Series.
and its an action figure Too. looks much better. good choice.
Quoted from PinFan4Life:Proud new member of the Hobbit club here! Just had NIB Black Arrow # 148 of 750 delivered yesterday. I'm loving it (and so is the wife so that's a GREAT thing). Had to sell 3 of my pins to fund it, but no regrets. Awesome game. Just installed my Laserrific topper and the tilt graphics blades are on the way.
pics or it isn't so.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Just got my Hobbit Smaug in a trade for a GB. Amazing game so far, but clearly needs a few adjustments. For one, the ball seems to double clutch in the left VUK sometimes. Is this a wire form issue, or most likely just a VUK mech calibration issue? Ive never seen the issue with the right VUK.
shim the wire fourm with a spacer or nut on back side it gives enough tilt to eliminate the issue
Quoted from JamesMxP:Anyone have a solution for protecting the inner part of the Radagast hole from wear? Cliffys only go around the outside, I'm starting to see wear on the inner part of the hole which wouldn't be covered by a Cliffy.
try mantis
Quoted from JamesMxP:I don't see any mantis protectors for the Hobbit unless I'm missing something.
Appears to be the clearcoat cracking at the edge from ball impacts.
contact them
Quoted from KingBW:What do you guys/gals think? A gold (brass plated) captive ball.
GOLD balls I got your GOLD balls!
Quoted from Cornelius:That's a nice lucky number! You should buy a lotto ticket.
or go play the slots!
Quoted from JamesMxP:My Worg mech was stuck open after a game last night. Moved it a little and it went back down, but now there's resistance from about halfway up to fully up, and it drops down slowly compared to the other 3 mechs. Raised the playfield and nothing obvious is in a bind. Suggestions?
You may have to file chamfer and adjust the plastic ball trap guide fix
Quoted from LTG:Tha manual is available now on JJP's site : http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/The-Hobbit-Parts/
Just like the WOZ one. Photo quality paper, pictures, back story, etc.
LTG : )
LTG if we mention your name do we get a discount?
Quoted from Jackalwere:Joining the club. Just bought my Smaug from Butch2099 and it will be here Tuesday. Probably be next weekend before it is set up because I have to get it upstairs. I played one at the Seattle Pinball Museum and had to have it. All of my other pins (except Ripley's) are 90's machines and I told myself if I could only have one more pin, I wanted a newer one. I like Ghostbusters and WOZ, but TH blew me away. Read the books as a teenager so many years ago, which helped form my love of D&D and the Middle Earth role playing game (MERP), loved the LOTR movies, but unlike most people I love the Hobbit movies even more because of extra content (much of which appeared in MERP). I can't stop thinking about the pin...
congrats on the Smaug but get help taking it up the stairs. those bad boys are heavy!
Quoted from fnosm:It did. The beauty of a JJP game is the manual comes loaded as part of the system software and you can view the manual on the LCD in the backbox.
"Beautiful" a true innovation in pinball.
If you want a hard copy version of this manual, (which is above and beyond all other machine manuals by a huge margin), nothing else comes close (except the WOZ manual) it is totally worth the $100.
Quoted from LTG:CD version comes with the game. And there is also one in the software you can view on the games screen. And you can download one from JJP's website.
LTG : )
for the price of the game new in box it should have came with it! simple as that! shouldn't have to pay $100 bucks for one.
2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
Quoted from wolv3:Should I put Mylar or anything over the cracking? I would like to leave them out of the game.
Put a few drops of clear
Quoted from 3pinballs:Hey Keith are there going to be callouts or instructions for each mode?
That's the thing about hobbit that's frustrating and I want to turn it off as I don't know what I'm supposed to shoot at. If it did have the above then I believe this is going to be a great game.
follow the lights! unless your blind.
best light intergrated game ever.
Quoted from Axl:The Smaug light effect made my jaw drop. Beautiful!
it is awesome effect ! i think it should be used at the start of smaug multi ball as well.
Quoted from Bendit:Hobbit down!
That rubber was torn from the factory install. It's the one behind the barrels.
bummer... Noticed that JJP's store doesn't have white rubbers?
mine also broke same rubber! no biggie just replaced it.
Quoted from Bendit:It's no biggie if you have a replacement on-hand. Without this rubber, the ball always gets stuck behind the pops.
Boondocker might hook me up tonight with one of his spares!
That will learn ya! Be prepared mama was right.
Quoted from Bendit:Anybody have mirror blades for The Hobbit?
I have blades in all my games, except The Hobbit...
bally williams will work with slight modification.
Quoted from fnosm:Some recommend using a filter to change the color temperature which I think accomplishes what you are hoping to do.
Here is a link to the post about the filter:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/9#post-3168161
Here is a link to the filter on Amazon:
amazon.com link »
As for the protector I bought my WOZ with one on (brand new) and eventually cut it off. (BTW it was a PITA to cut off that thing is pretty tough.) I cut it off because it looked like doo doo and underneath was a perfect playfield. In hind sight I wish I would have left it on as my WOZ gets a ton of play and real wear is happening. I have also ordered a Protector for my TSPP and will be installing it instead of getting the playfield clearcoated. So yes you can cut it off, be careful not to damage your playfield with your knife or scissors and plan on it being difficult to cut.
i used masking tape same effect and some blue painters tape on a few select leds cost $0 as i have it laying around the house!
Quoted from thewool:I'm not a fan of cold whites for GI so wanted to try warm whites, thought it might also suit the playfield colours better. No bother though.
put white bulb condoms on.
Quoted from konghusker:Anybody have any thoughts on if cliffys are really needed on the balin and radagast upkicks?
$67 bucks cheap insurance!
Quoted from Ozzy:Thinking of purchasing a hobbit le smaug gold edition. Can you call give me thoughts on a price of.such a beast?. Dont have any jjp in collection and thought I would give it a try. Thanks everyone
would be best move you ever made. price is down but value is up!
Quoted from Dkjimbo:was there ever a heavier pinball manufactured in history aside from Hercules??
I've moved a hercules and its not as heavy as the Hobbit!
Quoted from Mike_J:Is Smaug the most common version of the game?
well definently the most popular!
Quoted from Bendit:None are a must. Especially for home use.
i beg to differ!
get those cliffy's on!
Quoted from NightTrain:No he is not. He’s a wizard like Gandalf.
a wizard with seagull droppings on his hat from his last beach excursion !
Quoted from wolv3:Does anyone's Smaug ball lock magnet actually stop the ball? I can't think of the last time mine did.
Demagnetized or change the balls
Quoted from Crile1:On Hobbit plunger is very weak because the skill shots take a lot of finesse. Its supposed to be that way. Get rid of the ring sticker and get a ring and plate from Larry at Flip n out. Only "must have" mod for this game. Enjoy!
It would be must have if he made it in gold or brass . Not so much in the silver
Quoted from Goronic:I have it, and silver is a good choice. There is plenty of silver on the ramps and wireforms - and the contrast on the lockdown bar is great. It also allows the ring to pop more.
I would say it is a must have mod
If that’s your flavor!
Quoted from meSz:The RING is gold but not the plaque. The plaque is only available in stainless steel. I contacted him before and he said he wasn't going to do the gold/brass plaques.
This!
Quoted from callaway15:Does anyone have an idea of how long the Hobbit Black Arrow edition will be produced? I want to get one eventually, but have a TNA coming soon, so ideally wanting to wait a little bit before getting the Hobbit. I don't want to miss out on being able to get a NIB one in the future, though.
not sure if but i believe BA is limited to 700
Quoted from pinballinreno:Just had a great game on 3.0
The choreography, lighting, effects, sounds, music...WOW !
Killed smaug, finished into the fire!
What a RUSH!
The call outs and enhanced lighting all just "clicked" for me.
For once I had zero trouble understanding where I was in the game.
Really, really nicely done Ted and team.
The game is becoming World Class. It's a game like no other and deserves the finest praise.
I am running 2.97 and waiting to install 3.0 or 3. ... reading about default issues with smaugs mouth and volume exct.
my question is does 3.0 play any different than 2.97?
Quoted from VillaThrills:We are going to do a limited run of Hobbit pin cups. A couple of people had messaged me in the past about it. If you would like one, just PM me. $30 including shipping in the US. The one pictured is ambidextrous, but we will be printing right or left hand flanges.
The one pictured has the flange on the right side. This would attach to the left leg and stick out the the side of the cabinet or attach to the right leg and stick out in front of the cabinet.
If you really want an ambidextrous one let me know and we can figure something out.
Just PM me if interested.
[quoted image][quoted image]
looks like it could use vinyl trim where cup handle would sit. i can see the bailing twine fraying. other wise looks nice.
Quoted from ToucanF16:I haven’t caught up on this thread and I’m just jumping in.
Does anyone know how many Smaugs were produced?
Jack once told me about 750 but he never confirmed. I asked him again at York show this year and had about 45 min conversation with him and he said that’s about right but still no conformation
Oh and his Mom loved Mrs pac man he still owns the game he gave her and he told me the serial number was the year he started pinball business my memory is not great but I believe it was 1975 Jack is a great dude and Smaug is the best version of Hobbit in my opinion! An actual confirmation would be great 750 1,000 or 1,500 either way Smuag is the Bomb after all the Hobbit is about the Dragon and re-Acquiring the arkenstone, and with new CODE it’s the BOMB! May be best game ever!
Quoted from GravitaR:Pretty close I'd say since I have #777[quoted image]
Apron number is irrelevant to actuall production. You could have any number put there on the apron if you ordered the game. numbers that were not specifically requested are assigned by Frank.
Quoted from ChrisLIX:Yesterday, when lifting up the playfield to replace a spring, I discovered something broken in multiple parts. The parts were a little everywhere so difficult to know from where it dropped so I have no clue where it comes from. The game still works perfectly so...
Any idea what is it?
Thanks for your help
[quoted image]
looks like insulator spacer for a leaf switch
Quoted from MarZ_78:Anyone have issues with the invisiglass slipping out of the track on the left or right side? It is almost like the glass isnt wide enough.
i remember early games having this issue.
Quoted from Reaper802:I'm still looking to source an engraved Ring Button Plate in the US if anyone knows where to find one.
I have recreated the plate in CAD in case there are no more to be had. I would just need to track down a shop that could cut and engrave the plate. If anyone knows of such a place please let me know.
Most trophie shops could do it .
Quoted from brett:When I was in the middle of a game a couple of nights ago, my 27” LCD went out. Everything else works, but the screen won’t come back on.
I’ve rebooted it a few times, and have checked all of the cords to make sure something didn’t come loose. I have a support ticket in to JJP, no response so far.
Has a anyone else had this issue?
Loyd ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:Sorry I’m sure I saw these were addressed before but can’t seem to find it in the thread now. Two issues:
1) how do I adjust the wind lance to fire into the right orbit consistently? I’ve adjusted both the “strength” and “delay” in the coil settings (can someone explain the difference?) and it’s better but not at all consistent. How do you test this outside of gameplay - just hold a ball there with your finger and fire the coil? Or can you put the post up to hold it somehow while you adjust the coil setting? I also read to bend the metal rail but wanted to make sure I’m doing the other adjustments first.
2) my orc still works but now seems to “try” twice before he pops up - like he’s getting a little stuck on his way up so he’s just a little delayed. I guessing something is bent and rubbing but not sure what to look for or adjust.
Thanks so much or the help!
Question2
Chances are it’s getting hung up on wires. Check as it can sever/ cut wire . Also check switches as they tend to break
Quoted from Fiasco98112:Hoping someone can help me figure out a problem I'm having with my screen. Just got a Smaug Gold Hobbit yesterday and noticed after playing for a while that the image on the screen is shifted down a few inches leaving a black gap at the top and cutting off the bottom. Restarted it and the JJP logo and startup screen are full screen but once the game screen comes on its shifted again. Worked through the menus and couldn't find anything I thought would fix it. Also fiddled with the buttons at the bottom of the screen but again came up with nothing. Relatively new to pinball table ownership so appreciate any help. Thanks
Ask Loyd
LTG
Quoted from pinballslave:No... I'm curious about it, but something about it puts me off... not sure I'd like a playfield that's constantly doing stuff... would like to play one though to experience it.
You need to experience in home envierment
And play several games to get flow and an understanding of the game!
Hands down the best theme integrated game ever!!!!
Quoted from metahugh:Thanks for the servo suggestion! I just finished installing a new PCB plus one of these servos I just got in the mail from Hobby King today and Smaug’s mouth moves again. I played a game and I’m second guessing selling Hobbit LOL
At the rate games are appreciating you may not be able to afford one in the future.
Quoted from PinballHaven:ABS arrived, still dialing in the printer with that filament but the part fits fine. Nice and snug!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
If your selling interested for two hobbits.
What is selling price? Thanks freddy
I own two Hobbit’s. I will not be buying or supporting JJP going forward as I don’t like the direction the company has taken! And the treatment of its loyal employee's.
LTG you are awesome!
freddy
Quoted from VeggiePin:Any thoughts on Side Blades for Hobbit?
Since you have black arrow go with
Black mirrored!
Quoted from pinballinreno:I was looking for a compact easy to install cooling solution.
This was it!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec/06825-extended-play-coil-coolers-jjp-the-hobbit
Super easy to install and very high quality.
Flipper fade has reduced to non-existent.
It only took me 15 mins to install it, its very easy.
For you guys looking to cool coils... check out these fans!
B0FAAFA3-1F17-4D9C-B901-6E7543FE4ED4 (resized).jpegEEE39547-B321-4AE6-9129-29EA1DE0AC89 (resized).jpegQuoted from Ashram56:Just joined the club
But of course, I'm encountering issues after a few games, like... The goblin pop up figure broke. After disassembling the mech (and losing a spring and the blocking part of the spring in the process...), I can't believe how low quality the figures are. I don't understand how they can withstand the abuse (and they didn't, as can attest by broken goblin head).
I'll try to repair it, but just in case, any source for a replacement part of higher quality than stock? Ideally in Europe (that's where I live).
PU-parts carry the replacement parts, but at 56 euros EACH. That's insanely high. At this price, I might as well get Lior replacement at 350 dollars for the whole set.
Cheers
You sound disgruntled.
Maybe just sell the game.
Pinball is not inexpensive and used games usually come with issues and wear. You should be happy that replacement parts are available.
Quoted from lschmidlin:Finally killed Smaug. Laughing at myself though because I’ve owned this game since new-in-box and it took me 11 minutes over 9 (!!) multi-balls to do it. Ha ha. But got ‘er done and Grand Champed it at 2.5M which is good for me. But seriously, 9 multi-balls?!?! Yeah, I need to practice . Was awesome though. Reaper802
[quoted image]
Such an epic part of the game! Congrats!
Quoted from Ashram56:OK understood.
It's not really the target cycling which I find distracting, it's when all target are simultaneously raised. That's a lot of coils firing at the same time, generating a very bizarre noise.
I disassembled smaug head, the switch is actually an opto. There are two connectors, one a standard mta-156, the other a small 4 pins dupont connector.
Which one carries is responsible for opto information?
It’s part of what makes the game unique!
A Hobbit only experience!
I think it’s awesome!!!!!
Quoted from Tres:Anyone interested in trading a NIB Ultraman CE for a Hobbit LE plus cash?
Cash going to Hobbit owner of coarse
Not seeing it work any other way.
Quoted from screaminr:Yep , don't leave it lying around so your dog can eat it
[quoted image]
If you need a copy I can copy mine and you can blend them on your scanner.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Just curious. Was there any playfield differences between the standard, smaug, black arrow, etc... Artwork or otherwise?
Smaug edition has gold Smaug head as opposed to more red.
Smaug edition has video clip of Smaug covered in gold flying and shaking off gold.( SE only)
Black arrow has black flippers
All I can think of at the moment.
Besides cab art differences
Quoted from screaminr:Personally , I think gold mirror blades would look sweet .
I know they will!
Quoted from Ecw0930:I have these on mine (came with it) and they are the ones I wanted.
However, and this is big for me. The print quality is garbage. I mean it's bad bad. It is ALL blurry. Nothing stands out. It's all blurred and muddied together. The black is more really dark greenish. The gold doesn't have one coin stand out. Ut rather just a lump pile of gold color. With a few burry gems in it.
If I had seen these in person I would NOT buy them. But they came on the game.
They also have some rips on them and once they are ripped they only get worse. So I'm looking to change mine out.
Honestly any art for this game other than licensed art would be sub par!
Mirror blades for sure!
Mirror on standard and Le
Gold on Smaug
Black mirror on black arrow !
Just my two cents!
Quoted from mrossman5:I really wanted to get black mirror blades for my black arrow but just couldn’t justify the cost.
I have the gold and the quality is outstanding !
Black is same price point and quality.
You get what you pay for .
http://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html
Quoted from mrossman5:I really wanted to get black mirror blades for my black arrow but just couldn’t justify the cost.
Quoted from Ecw0930:You have the gold blades on Hobbit? Any pictures?
I can't stand that they are so expensive but if they are "the ones" then.....
Too lazy to remove glass!
2D1D70B2-3DFC-44D1-8985-C5B15BF3A0BE (resized).jpeg5AA6C049-E337-446D-9241-CBB11FE8F12B (resized).jpegCE37DB3A-61E5-4B6B-B603-BA03E210D3C3 (resized).jpegEC5D29D8-1755-4694-B771-68A64B752752 (resized).jpegECBBF593-106C-42E1-9D3B-92ECAF9AF610 (resized).jpegF1DA761C-5526-48CB-93F7-CBDB478D071C (resized).jpegQuoted from Ecw0930:Those look amazing! Can you tell they are gold? Like is it a good strong color? This might make me pull the trigger ...
Also, do you have your spotlights pointed at the mirror blades?! Why? That's kinda genius!
Yes they are gold!
Look at wire form reflection .
Wire forms are chrome, in blade reflection is gold
Quoted from vintage4life:Just joined the club! Never really played one. Can’t wait to set it up today!
[quoted image]
Best purchase you ever made !
Quoted from Merendino:It's as if the channel grooving is set too low or the playfield is sitting slightly too high. When I take the lockbar off, the glass does not naturally slide down. When I pull it down to remove it, the very edge of the glass hits the front of the cabinet about the coin door.I have to jimmy something under the glass ever so slightly to be able to slide it out safely.
Read through thread .
Early on this was an issue . I believe that an insert for the side rail track Was added.
Quoted from vintage4life:How is this game not wanted by everyone?
Low production numbers! 1900 total.
2/3 or more are in home
And the few in the wild are not the same experience as in a home.
Most people never really get a chance on one and are influenced by the rumors of a few.
Quoted from DrDoom:Thanks
It's actually an easy job, but also pretty fumbly on the ramps
Not if you have skinny fingers!
Quoted from vintage4life:No I just stuck them straight out. I will give that a try. That would probably look pretty good. Wonder if I can put something on them to dim them down instead.
Try blue or green painters tape to dim leds
You can do strip or individual.
True
But that would dim the whole strand .
With the tape it’s selective . One may Want it bright in middle and dark on ends.
With tape this can be achieved . Even mix blue Green or standard painters tape to shadow the effects .( simple easy and removable)
Quoted from KingBW:Looking through the ratings history, it's definitely a love/hate polarizing game. Unfortunately, some of the honest people ranking the game have only experienced it in a public, loud atmosphere. Even if you look at the individual reviews some really good ratings mixed in with bad ratings all through it's history. I love it, but only want to play it when I'm ready for a long, intense battle. Some people don't like long games. Stereotyping tournament type players - most tournament types don't like long games. To me the intense immersion into this game puts it in another category and it's tops in "that" category. Great for a home setting, not too great for a loud public location or for a tournament. The ranking is stuck in the middle and the history plot below shows it.
[quoted image]
As with any movie themed table, one needs to have seen the movie ( this one has three) to appreciate what the game has to offer, no matter how good or bad the movie is.
I think a lot of people haven’t even seen the Hobbit movie let alone all three to understand and appreciate this masterpiece of a pinball! Their loss.
The sounds ,the assets ,the call outs, the clips, the modes, the artwork , did I miss something ?
Oh yeah the Fun!
Quoted from VisitorQ:I'm looking to pick up a Hobbit and was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on things to look for when I am buying one?
Thanks!
Read through this thread!
Quoted from VisitorQ:I was looking for a more condensed version rather than a 250 page book.
Gota do your home work!
Quoted from VisitorQ:Well I beat Smaug again, this time it was not so random. I had one hell of a game, about an hour. Got to the second mini wizard mode for the first time but it kicked my ass, I think I only made it to stag two. Had the third and final mini wizard mode lite but I missed the shot. I'm really thinking at some point I will be able to beat this game, I guess will see....
As far as the post before mine, I think that is pretty normal for the start of the first ball lock.
Beating the game would be beating all 32 modes
Quoted from Gibo:Another minor difference between the LE and Smaug is the LE has a metal shroud over the left hand side ramp divertor whereas the Smaug is plastic.
I have two SELE one has plastic one has metal. Both picked up from factory at the same time.
Quoted from metahugh:I had the same choice. I would have paid the same for the Smaug or the LE. I liked that the LE art package included the characters. The Smaug version was too Smaug focused.
Hence “Smaug”
One of my games came from factory with Jacks signature on back box and trans light. Born on 6/30 2016.
Also no gate on right side ( factory) and has metal on left ramp.
The other game( at another house) don’t remember date but has plastic plastic piece left ramp and gate on right side.
Both have spring steel flaps
031812B8-DEE7-4A84-97B3-1AF00476194D (resized).jpeg2C050EE6-DB13-4421-B948-4E445402B262 (resized).jpeg349FE82D-DA83-445D-A175-CAAFC389D70B (resized).jpegA00F38EC-7D6A-4B3A-8B7D-5C85AD29A186 (resized).jpegCB121AEF-EE2A-43EB-8238-3F9C192F62C0 (resized).jpeg
Thought I’d share some factory pics I took.
0937DD88-CB6E-42AE-B5E7-8E554E3E766F (resized).jpeg3C8D4910-D049-4FA4-A5BC-0AEE20A7B105 (resized).jpeg46397052-7B39-49EA-8152-ECFF240EC77C (resized).jpeg48D8CAD7-6B3C-420A-BFBE-01A352FD4FA1 (resized).jpeg4C66C532-4600-4FFD-A46B-782596C84D2D (resized).jpeg8A23D5BD-B574-4C0F-A0C4-C33D8CB02C77 (resized).jpeg9F8790DA-C573-4E09-BC0D-59C30439A3E0 (resized).jpegAFAAFE06-2905-44D7-B2C3-0DE9FD0A5046 (resized).jpegC5279B6F-E9F0-4BCA-8807-AB993F8A1BED (resized).jpegD64A7259-473D-47D2-86B4-F6C43BD9B867 (resized).jpegDB3612D4-3574-4E5A-860D-4E495D47AE5E (resized).jpegF999A237-3ABD-477E-AA1B-C48A8E81B526 (resized).jpegQuoted from VisitorQ:Was there an official JJP topper?
With only 1950 units made they scratched the topper.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Isn't it?
1500 LE
1000 Smaug
750 Black Arrow
STANDARD Edition- Unknown amount Chrome base model.
300 standard
750 Smaug
700 Le
150 BA
So 1900 total
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Threw out a few texts to fellow owners.
Updated my post above.
1500 LE
So, it probably close to 4000 units with the standard edition.
They barely sold 5,000 GRLE I think NIB Are still available.
They set out to make 1500 LE but when Smaug was announced half the Le orders switched over to Smaug edition.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Sorry- That can't be right.
I am taking this from edition numbers on all plaques.
Now, did they make that many???
The LE sold out so they did a Smaug edition.
Then it sold out and they did a Black Arrow. The Black Arrows did sit available for a few years. But, by 2018 they were sold out.
JJP was offering For Hobbit that you could name the number you wanted if it was not already taken . This was an effort to drum up sales.
Quoted from screaminr:Did you not see my number on the certificate of 1500 LEs
Even if half switched over doesn't mean they didn't sell all the LE's
Just because some GNRs are still available doesn't mean they haven't built them all .
Oh they built all the 5,000 GRLE and 300 standard GR.
Quoted from Reaper802:Changing that battery has been on my to do list forever. I'm pretty sure mine is original, Factory Date: 04/22/2016. So it's just over 7 years old. Tick, tick, tick... For what it's worth, I've never had a CMOS battery die in a PC. One of these days I'll change the damn thing.
Just changed mine as @sheprd’s post prompted me. It was original batt tested 2.79.
Put a new ever ready in there.
Changing tip. One finger on hold down clip one hand on magnet stick! Boom instant removal.
Born on date 6/30/2016
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from freddy:One finger on hold down clip one hand on magnet stick! Boom instant removal.
Quoted from rockrand:the magnet idea is a very good one.clip should be mentioned in instructions.
I believe clip was mentioned
Quoted from docdeath:Where is the disk battery located? I hope it's in the back box. I hate lifting the playfield.
Start lifting!
Quoted from CLEllison:Personally I'm a huge Tolkien fan so everything resonates with me. Had I not been a tolkien fan:
Smaug MB is easily gotten to, it's not quickly/easily beaten.
The 3 Wizard modes are not "easily" achieved and to this day I have yet to "beat" BOTFA and a rarity if I even get to it. And they are freaking fun!
Lastly, TABA. You have to finish (just finish not beat) I forget 32 or 34 modes to get to it?
The light show is fantastic as is the sound system and code.
The popup beasts are - well ..... no better or worse than say Medieval Madness
Pretty easy to sniff out the haters, they never mention in detail modes and such things. Typical, "I played it and didn't like it" type responses. Yes it's a wide body and yes it's floaty and slower ball times to get back to the flippers. The only real hard shots are the dwarves drop downs closest to the flippers which more often than not are achieved by random ball bounce which can make finishing certain modes a real bitch.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This is a very accurate description.
I like killing Smaug it’s just a cool pinball experience.
And I love the in-lane skill shot challenge . I find a very light plunge and timing
Making it is very personally rewarding.
Into the fire, Barrel escape, and Battle of three army’s All are enjoyable .
If one has not seen the trilogy I suggest watching it as it definently helps one understand and pulls together all the events and call outs in the game , and this game has great call outs! The assets are a big part of what makes Hobbit the awesome game that it is. Pinball at its finest!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Quoted from dpadam450:Just curious what the main selling point is from the people who like it. For the longest time I wrote of Wonka, but one day I played it for like 2 hours and got into it and really like it. The Hobbit may never click for me, but I was curious the reasons people love it, to think about when I try it again.
Quoted from DiabloRush:DI really comes into its own as HUO pin.
Especially 5 balls per game.
Quoted from roscoepinball:Did you replace the battery with the game powered on so you didnt lose any of the CPU boot settings, etc?
Always change batt. with game on
Ok guys I just installed the larger caps on my board and it’s like a new hobbit!
Two 6800uF 6800mfd 100V Electrolytic Capacitor . $10 off eBay . It’s an easy install if you can solder. Beats $400 for a new board!https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-fully-populated-enhanced-i-o-board/page/6#post-8003198
Best upgrade I ever performed !!!!
Quoted from beltking:Gotta figure out the rules a bit.
in the manual. Flow chart will help
Quoted from Vernisious:ok I let my battery die.. what do I need to do? Replace battery and .... full install?
Replace battery make sure it’s installed correctly . Then turn on game. If game boots up great . If not report back.
Quoted from WesleyCowan:After spending way too long reseating crap and testing PSU game starts.
Still getting Bag EndEGB board error, not lights but spotlights and the mechs when popping up basically shot gunning. Done for now.
Quoted from LTG:Any chance the up/down switch and target face connectors are mixed up ?
LTG : )
Take LGT’s advice ! He is usually spot on!
Quoted from briyau15:Does anyone have and recommend the Lior beasts? They seem pretty expensive for what they are as they just end up getting beat up and aren’t visible the entire times.
My pin does have the Lior book cover and barrel legs so I’m thinking about purchasing but would hold off if people who have it say they’re not worth it.
I never bought the Lior faces. They look great!
But do you really get to enjoy the detail during game play?
I stocked up on the stock faces. Reasonably priced.
https://www.pinballlife.com/hobbit-pop-up-warg-head-sculpture.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/hobbit-pop-up-goblin-head-sculpture.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/hobbit-pop-up-orc-head-sculpture.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/hobbit-pop-up-spider-head-sculpture.html
Quoted from CLEllison:You don't have sweaty hands I'm guessing.
It’s not so much sweaty as it is acids, some people really wear down keys and metals they frequently touch.
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