(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by docdeath
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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (6 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (6 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (6 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (6 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (6 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (6 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (5 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (5 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#285 6 years ago

I haven't been able to figure how to light up the gollum ball save, any ideas?
Also anyone know what the red target just past the corner of the right outlane is for?
Mine is so close to the apron that I can't get a bounce off the rubber to hit it. In fact it acts like a gate, just barely big enough to let the ball pass through.Capture1_(resized).jpg

#295 6 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

To light Gollum, you have to keep advancing the award shots without collecting any. When one inlane insert is solid green and you go down the other inlane, the Gollum ball save will light and the inserts will go to solid white.

JVSPIN for the win!
I am glad that I asked. This would have taken me a very very long time to figure out!

#314 6 years ago

I'm having an issue where the ball isn't always successfully served up from the ball trough to the plunger. It looks like the ball is being deflected back into the trough by the ball keeper (the tab that closes the ball trough when the playfield is raised.) Anyone else experiencing something similar or have any suggestions?

#412 6 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I noticed that too so I replaced the rubber on mine. Right now I'm running PBL Super-Bands

I like your flipper bats. They look great. Please let us know which ones they are and where they can be found.

#454 5 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

I hope Stern does not do a giant LCD screen, too much going on.

Thanks for your review. It is a shame that you didn't get a chance to play a machine without the issues that you mentioned. The Hobbit is a great game even with partial code.

In the future please post your Hobbit comments in a different Hobbit topic. This topic “Hobbit Owners Thread” is very useful for owners that are looking to share their experience, exchange ideas on customization and seek assistance for issues that they are experiencing. There are 70 other Hobbit topics that have been created in the past 3 months alone, I'm sure one of them will meet your needs better than this one. If not please feel free to create your own topic.

#573 5 years ago
Quoted from Hjbondar:

Thanks KPG. I am looking for what someone was actually charged as I was quoted $500 by JJP - and it seemed high - Harvey

436.88 shipped to San Jose with me picking up at terminal. I thought it was expensive too. Forgot all about the cost once I started playing it.

1 week later
#612 5 years ago

Not sure how it happened but I managed to snag & break a couple of the wires routed around the MAN target bank while raising the playfield last night. The only thing I can guess at is that they got caught on the metal track that the playfield slides on, but that seems unlikely.
Just wanted to put this out there as a warning to other owners to so you can avoid this issue. These wires are so fragile that I didn't feel their resistance as they were breaking while lifting/pulling the playfield.

Also I am interested in any suggestions for repairing/reconnecting these wires. They are so very thin. Anyone know what guage these are?

Here are some pictures

#615 5 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

From the looks of things the wires are of various gauges. maybe somewhere 18 to 22.

You'd think, but this isn't larger than 24 maybe smaller. It is the very small size of the wire that has me asking about repairing it.

Do you know what size these little un's are and how you would reconnect them?

#623 5 years ago

Thanks Lloyd these are the LED wires and they are definitely not 18 gauge, my current guess is 26 guage. It is possible that my machine is the only one with these small wires but I don't think that is likely.

#625 5 years ago

Thanks Lloyd
These wires are so tiny I was thinking there may be another way to reconnect them other than the tried and true solder method. Anyway I picked up some 1/16" heat shrink and will get out my microscope to try and do the soldering tonight.

#648 5 years ago

I need some trouble shooting tips for the Smaug head. The dragon eyes light up and the mouth moves but the head no longer swivels to face the player. The head swivels freely by hand but doesn't respond to the + or - buttons in the test menu nor does it move side to side during the game.

In the test menu there are 4 squares. Upper Left (UL), Upper Right(UR), Lower Left(LL) and Lower Right(LR). The UL lights up when the head reaches the left stop. The UR lights up when the head reaches the right stop. These squares are presumably driven by switches and if I move the head by hand to the left stop and to the right stop they do light up. The LL lights up when the - volume button is pressed and the LR lights up when the + volume button is pressed. These squares light correctly when the corresponding volume buttons are pressed but the head does not move.

#652 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Look for loose connector or loose wire in a connector.

Thanks Lloyd you are the man,

There is a large connector coming out of the back of the PC Box lots of yellow wires ( Manual Version 1.6 page D-72 connector J18.) Turns out this connector was so loose it fell into my hand. Plugged it in and voila. This also fixed the spots not working and the start button light not working.

When I turned it on and everything worked my stress was replaced by euphoria and I was humbled.

Here's to LTG, TH & JJP

#655 5 years ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

Where are they from?

What he said

#711 5 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

4) Plug a RCA -> 3.5mm cable into the other splitter and run it to your sub.

Thanks for the picture.
How did you run the wires out of your cabinet to your sub? Or should I say, which hole did you use?

Also can you show a picture of your input to your sub?

1 month later
#1133 5 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

My glass is just the opposite. It's not wide enough to fit into rails correctly. Lloyd us looking into it. Compared to my woz cab, th is nearly 1/2" wider and therefore the glass barely touches the side plastic guide. I have to lift it up near the top and pop it into place. Curious if anyone else with woz and hobbit can measure widths to compare.

I also have this exact same issue. My assuption is that the groove for the plastic rail was cut too far out. I figure it is at least 1/8" to wide on each side.
Please share any fix that you and Lloyd come up with.

#1137 5 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

That was another thing I thought, but after measuring outside cabinet area, it's bigger than woz. I was wondering if all hobbits measured the same or if I just got a lemon

I think that you are right the cabinets are probably either slightly wider to accomodate all the extra goodness found in the TH or they are just out of spec.

I will measure my TH and WOZ tonight and report back with my findings.

#1140 5 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Mine does the same thing, its not a big deal to me though, when putting the glass back on I just slightly press down on the plastic lip on the top and it goes right in.

While my glass does hit the top guide when I slide it in, my problem is that the glass is narrower than the plastic rails and it will fall out of the rail on one side or another as I am sliding the glass back in place.

1 week later
#1279 5 years ago

Replacing rivets is a pain if you don't have the right tools. If you need help let me know and I will help and/or do the replacement for you.
I have the press to make it look like it was done at the factory. Super convenient if you are in the Bay Area but also willing to do it by mail if you pay for shipping. Not looking to get paid just trying to give back and help out.

#1327 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I say try both and decide what you like best.

What he said +1

#1329 5 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

After getting the hobbit I will get another JJP soon. If I like Lawlors I will get that, if not WOZ RR is a definite buy for me.

IMHO - RRWOZ is the single greatest pinball machine ever. Been playing her 4-8 hours a week going on 2 years now. Still in love, nothing has come close to knocking her out of my top spot.

#1331 5 years ago

Thousands, I'm gonna have to check the machine to have a clue. (this number will change to less than a hundred if I ever sell )

Also doesn't the counter reset when the software is updated? If so I can probably back into a number based on the number of games since the last update to v6.06

#1342 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

How many plays is that?

According to the audits both recent and lifetime games are right around 5000.
So if these reset when the code is updated then total plays since acquisition are in the 15 - 20k range.
Does anyone know if the audits reset when updating the code?

#1351 5 years ago
Quoted from goldant:

Same here with the lockbar not lining up with the rails

Same here.

#1403 5 years ago

The wire form is defective because the ball hits the cross member below the longitudinal wires and becomes airborne. If the longitudinal wires were thicker or the cross members were bent out of the way there wouldn't be airballs. Check out this solution offered a couple of months ago that illustrates this issue.


This is pointing to post #462 in this topic (Hobbit Owners Thread) I say this because sometimes it is hard to find the post being referred to.

#1425 5 years ago

1.3 Delta Game Install is up on JJP support website.

Cheers x 3


1 month later
#2020 5 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

On my Hobbit LE, the ring around "The Ring" button on the lockdown bar is clear. However I have seen several pictures of other TH pins where the ring is gold. What color is your ring button surround? Does anyone know were to get one of the gold ones? I'd paint mine but am unsure of it's durability.

If you are referring to the gold in the picture you posted I believe that the gold ring is part of the sticker and the button is clear.

1 month later
#2258 5 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I posted it. Email or call if you need any help.

I used your guide to install my Cliffy's this past weekend.
It was very helpful. Thanks a ton for making this tutorial available.

1 week later
#2293 5 years ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

Hey everyone, should my start game button be illuminated? It's not, which seems unusual.....

I had an issue where my switch fell out of the button (I don't recall if the light is part of this assembly or not.)
Might try seeing if this is what happened to your button. It just snaps back in place. It took me a bit to figure this out. There isn't a keeper ring or anything else. Just holds itself where it belongs when inserted properly.

#2294 5 years ago
Quoted from koops:

To anyone that has done the ramp flap fix, are you finding you are getting massive numbers of ramp airballs now?
Every game I get 2-3 airballs which throw the ball in all sorts of weird places.
I'll have to see if they were the early flipper hit ones. ie. left flipper up left ramp.\
edit : seems as if this is normal when you have normal ramp flaps

No airballs after ramp fix installed at home.

#2309 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I got my Hobbit LE today, so I am joining the club. The only grif I have is that the drop targets are very very loud in my machine, but it looks to be typical.

You'll only notice that for the first couple of months

2 months later
#2827 5 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I'm also hoping that Beast and Feast multiball have more rules added to them and that stacking can be turned off while they are activated.

TH seems to be specifically designed to be continuously played in multiball mode. When you look at the requirements for completing certain tasks they are ponderous and repetitive if you only have one ball in play. However if you have six balls going then that is a different thing entirely. Also look at how many ways there are to get multiball modes started, Smaug, Beast, Mode, Add-A-Ball, etc...

1 week later
#2865 5 years ago

Love the ring button mod but not the font or the weird curvature of the letters. I know this is just like what came from the factory on the sticker but I don't like that version either. Seems like this is just crying out for something better.

4 weeks later
#2976 5 years ago

+1 for Titan

BTW anyone else have trouble with the shooter tip breaking almost immediately with the silicon tips?

3 weeks later
#3096 5 years ago
Quoted from yonizzell:

I have a factory installed playfield protector on my hobbit. I believe it's the best investment you can add to an $8000 plus machine, and if you have it installed from the factory you're not gonna know the difference.

There is a difference in gameplay. This difference is most pronounced on how your ball interacts with rollovers. Also the protector will get dirty/scratched and won't come clean. Eventually, I got so sick of looking at my dirty protector I cut it off of the playfield. Cutting it off was a pain in the backside. Once the protector was off though, I had a brand new playfield shining back at me. Protector does a great job of protecting, no doubt about that.

3 weeks later
#3221 5 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

I have a different viewpoint. I would say:
1. - Yes
2. - Not necessarily.
I owned both Woz and TH together for awhile. I bought TH first, and picked up Woz soon afterwards.
If you love one game, it does not automatically translate that you will love the other. At least it didn't for me. I kept the game that I thought was more fun.
Woz and TH are very different games.

So which one did you keep?

#3230 5 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

I still have Woz.

I have both and would only have WOZ if my wife was willing to part with TH

1 week later
#3269 5 years ago

I am having an issue where the F drop target (as in DWAR[F]) will only go down when it has been hit by a ball. I just assumed that this issue was something that would correct itself after a bit of play but that hasn't happened. Not sure if it was like this out of the box but if not it started shortly thereafter.

I ran the solenoid test and was able to determine that the electro-magnet doesn't energize or even make a sound for the F target, unlike all of the other targets. The wiring looks solid, no loose wires found.


#3289 5 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

should have come with the game

It did. The beauty of a JJP game is the manual comes loaded as part of the system software and you can view the manual on the LCD in the backbox.

"Beautiful" a true innovation in pinball.

If you want a hard copy version of this manual, (which is above and beyond all other machine manuals by a huge margin), nothing else comes close (except the WOZ manual) it is totally worth the $100.

1 month later
#3533 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Yes i have and nothing happened, this was on 1.95 code.

But you have to admit the visual with all of the modes lit is very cool.

3 weeks later
#3660 4 years ago
Quoted from Jodester:

Since I am lazy (and only read through 40 pages in the thread), is there a way to change the intensity of the LED strip in the backbox in the Hobbit? The strip is so bright it does an injustice to the artwork.
Also wondering if anybody has pulled the playfield protector off their machine? I purchased mine from an operator and the protector looks like hell. I don't plan to reuse it...

Some recommend using a filter to change the color temperature which I think accomplishes what you are hoping to do.
Here is a link to the post about the filter:

Here is a link to the filter on Amazon:
amazon.com link »

As for the protector I bought my WOZ with one on (brand new) and eventually cut it off. (BTW it was a PITA to cut off that thing is pretty tough.) I cut it off because it looked like doo doo and underneath was a perfect playfield. In hind sight I wish I would have left it on as my WOZ gets a ton of play and real wear is happening. I have also ordered a Protector for my TSPP and will be installing it instead of getting the playfield clearcoated. So yes you can cut it off, be careful not to damage your playfield with your knife or scissors and plan on it being difficult to cut.

#3666 4 years ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

I am having a problem with my playfield protector lifting in the center of game where lock rollover buttons are. Anyone else having this problem? Any remedy's besides taking it off? I have loosened anything that seems to be holding it down and then flattened it out . This seemed to do the trick until i checked on it later in the evening and it is floating above the buttons again.
Thanks for any advise in advance.

I have read that a bit of two sided tape can solve this

5 months later
#4203 4 years ago

I had the same spring issue but was able to pirate another shoother rod that I had replaced earlier. I have also noticed that the rod is just a slight bit loose in the sleeve of the shooter housing. Seems the rod diameter and the JJP shooter housing are a bit different.

3 months later
#4529 4 years ago

Looks like a part of the popup antiballstuck thingy that keeps balls from getting caught in the mech when the popups retreat.

2 months later
#4836 3 years ago


1 month later
#5233 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

Picture with Notes...

Thanks for that!

10 months later
#7158 2 years ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

Anyone have issues with the invisiglass slipping out of the track on the left or right side? It is almost like the glass isnt wide enough. The cabinet appear ok and is not cracked.

Mine is the same. The cabinet is just a smidge too wide. Also the support rails are positioned just a little too wide for the rubber feet to both rest on the lockdown bar mech at the same time. little things but still annoying.

1 month later
#7336 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Ok. Whoever is having reset issues, send me a PM. As much details as you can. Multiball, pop bumpers, mode your in, etc. I'm getting the info over to Lloyd as he is relaying it all to the programmer.

Did this issue ever get run to ground. Last night I was in the middle of a multiball fest, Smaug, Beast Frenzy... and BAM lights out. I have an early LE (sackchin) and I am running the latest code.

1 week later
#7403 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I went the gold newton and gold captive ball route myself. A lot of people think that looks pretty good too.

Thanks for the link to the pictures!

1 month later
#7642 2 years ago

I left my Hobbit on for 8+ hours yesterday and halfway through a long game towards the end of this time the sound started cutting out and getting quieter.
None of the call outs were playing correctly. I didn't notice any video issues but I wasn't watching the videos I was going for the GC score. I had to settle for High Score #2. After my game I power cycled the machine and started a new game. All the sound issues seemed to have been resolved by the reboot.
Does anyone have any similar experiences or know what might be causing this and how to correct it?

#7644 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Yep, there is an issue with the underlying audio driver used in recent updates. This isn't a driver JJP wrote - it's standard driver for the version of linux the game is based on. If you watch carefully, the game reboots itself after 24 hours to minimize this.

Thanks for your post. I am glad to know it isn't something more serious.

1 week later
#7681 2 years ago
Quoted from Mallich667:

I also have installed the backlight and ball through light kit from Lermods and decided to stay with green light in the back and gold light in the ball through area.
The reflections bothered me a lot and this is also the reason that kills for example the pinstadium lights mod (no matter on which pinball machine it's installed).
But that's just my opinion.
I work at a german window factory and took a window seal of an old window, cut it to the right length and glued it with a heat resistant two component adhesive right underneath the plastic channel where the glass fits in.
No more reflections, even if I sit in front of the machine while playing and it looks like it belongs and has always been there.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your light setup really makes your machine look great. Thanks for the pics.

4 weeks later
#7836 2 years ago
Quoted from tendo:

Fiancé and I have been eyeing up buying a machine for the house for awhile. Might Pull the trigger on an le soon. Any thoughts on this for a first time buyer? We are both huge Tolkien fans so this and lotr have been on our short list.

I have owned both and still have TH (I'm a diehard JJP fan.) These games are very very different. Both are great and the best chance of getting the right one for your gameroom is to spend some serious time playing both. If this isn't practical then go with the one you are most physically attracted to. It would be great if you both feel the same way. Other things to consider: Both are pretty stable games but in general the Stern will be easier to service if necessary. LOTR is very well known and most people you meet in pinballandia will know and have played this. Everyone will know The Hobbit as well but fewer will have played it. If $ is an issue go with the best price. Both games will continue to be more popular than most and hopefully you will be able to recoup a good percentage of your purchase price when you decide to sell.

3 weeks later
#7919 2 years ago

You are getting a new ramp, gratis?

#7921 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

It’s the return wireform on the right I believe.
My game also had some annoying drains from the -left- wireform for a long time. Eventually I found a good angle to bend the ball catch at the end and it’s never been a problem since.
Anybody have tips for spicing up the game ? I’ve been killing it lately and I want to keep the thrill going.

I was thinking of the reworked wireform returning to the left. If memory serves the reworked wireform wasn't offered as a warranty to those with the previous wireform. I wonder if this has changed?

#7949 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Thank you. I'll do this!
But why did J.J. update their left ramp to the new style? This must have been a common problem. Unless it's just because they know most people won't make these adjustment.

The last couple of cross wires at the end of the ramp hit the ball and eject it from the ramp.
If a thicker gauge wire was used or if the wires were just a little closer a lot of this issue would have been avoided.
I assume there were additional issues that led to the redesign or JJP just wanted to nail this figurative door shut by creating a non-ejecting ramp.

Here is a link to a posting from Jvspin covering a file sculpt repair of the cross wires and many including myself have bent the end of the wireform up to solve eject issues.

#7952 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I keep saying ramp when I mean to say wireform.
Thanks fnosm! I'll look into this as well.
The upgrade kit I just got doesn't explain where the left wireform post they included is supposed to go?

goes right here where this wireform screw is now.


Early version of what JJP sent you, installed


#7978 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

At some point I'll get to this when I get bored.
I can't find the spring steel ramp flaps for Hobbit. I would like to replace mine. They've curled up off of the playfield.

You can order these from JJP. If you have the thin originals still you may be able to get these on warranty.

#7982 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

They do not.
They do include pop-rivets if you don't want to do it properly.
Its way easier.
But, pop-rivets loosen up pretty quickly. The flaps have quite a bend in them.
It's best to get the Hanson rivet tool.

While you are at it you may want to install Cliffy protectors on the holes. Since you will have the ramp out of the machine to swap the flaps it is a good time to add the protectors.

#7985 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I was just looking at them (Cliffy) for that reason!
I always figured hole protectors were not necessary until they were worn. Why cover the rim when it looks good? But I do like to protect the shooter lane straight off.

My experience was that after pulling the ramp out once, I didn't want to do it again. Glad to have this maintenance task in my rearview.

#7992 2 years ago

Good price

3 months later
#8445 2 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Don't kill yourself trying to get that ramp out, it's one hell of a job. I just took kitchen scissors to the plastic protector on mine when I got it and cut it to bits. There are photos somewhere in this thread. Took maybe 20 minutes to cut it all the way out.

+1 for removing the playfield protector being a bear. I did it on my WOZ. That protector sure does a good job protecting though.

1 month later
#8703 1 year ago
Quoted from coloradodan:

I feel dumb asking this-- but what do you use to measure the pitch?

there are alot of phone apps that you can use for this.
Also you can buy levels at your local hardware store with angle meters(if that is a good name for them.)

Here is link to a google search on digital level:


2 months later
#8879 1 year ago

I put up some pics of my new 'legs' mod from Lior.

Take a look:

2 weeks later
#8959 1 year ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Scores and settings are written to disk, not stored in volatile memory like an older machine. That said, a dead battery will reset your BIOS settings which will require some tweaking if you're not familiar with modern PC's.

I'm pretty sure that if the battery dies you need to connect a keyboard to provide the necessary input <enter> etc neceessary to boot the machine. This should go away after the first boot once the battery has been replaced.

Here is a post in the WOZ thread regarding this issue.


#8973 1 year ago

Here is a shameless plug for the barrel legs from Lior:
They look great and are super easy to install.


pasted_image (resized).png

1 week later
#9013 1 year ago
Quoted from Motorcitypinball:

does any one have a left sling plastic available that I can buy? Please let me know
[quoted image]

I think the typical approach is to use the plastic protector below the plastic to prevent ball/plastic contact.
But I don't have an extra plastic. Just a suggestion on how to protect the rest of your plastics.

1 week later
#9084 1 year ago

Not trying to be funny but I have had a lot of success with plastic protectors.
Another pinsider posted a picture with what looks like the protector installed over the plastic. I did that too until someone pointed out to me that the protectors go underneath the plastics.

1 week later
#9185 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Yes. If you miss, you re-load the wind-lance and try again.

It is my experience that the time to hit the shot expires many times before I get a shot off.
I have heard that a good strategy is to have a ball cradled in your right flipper before launching the wind-lance.
I can't seem to pull this off either.

#9189 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I finished it once on the second game I played on this machine and didn't even know what was going on.
Now that I'm aware of what needs to be done, it seems impossible haha.

Same here.

#9196 1 year ago
Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:

I just took the ones for sale from from JJP and glued it to the top of the pop bumper plastic

Are these all the same character?
It looks great!

#9244 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

How do you qualify all the modes?

By playing the game, shooting all the drop and standing targets, holes, ramps, etc...

#9259 1 year ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

My Orc broke a few weeks ago and found a new one on Marco (JJP was sold out).
Getting the entire carriage out of my game was 'too much' due to heavy/tight wiring in my game, so I managed the swap with mech still in the game. The only real problem I ran into was the new Orc mold was NOT drilled out sufficiently to match the back-plate so I used a knife to increase the hole size a bit.

If you can swap it without removing the mech that is quite a feat.
I had to pull the mech to swap out my warg. Total PITA just like LTG said it was.

#9281 1 year ago
Quoted from Animal:

Im thinking about buying a Hobbit and one of the things that come up in reviews is there are too many opportunities for multiball. Is there a way to reduce multiballs?

Multiballs are what make this game the total rush that it is. Fewer multiballs would only be good if you are looking for a way to not want to play this machine.

1 month later
#9439 1 year ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

I just need to figure out how to work these pinstadium lights that came with it.

I think you can just unplug them and pitch em.

2 weeks later
#9470 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I did not like the Titans.

The way they play? The way they look? both?

1 week later
#9522 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You dont copy the downloaded file to the usb stick at all.
Use Rufus or unetbootin to make the usb stick for you.
Rufus is more stable, Id try that first.
Great instructions in the manual for making a usb stick for the JJP games.
Please read the manual its really very good.

+1 for Rufus

1 month later
#9786 1 year ago
Quoted from Modelvisionary:

I guess I'm the one to apologize for the cost of the Arkenstone mod. It took 3 weeks in development, 5 prototypes (otherwise known as "scrap"), using materials from 9 different sources, including several toxic chemicals and 3 unique jigs for production. I'm continuing to refine it, like all of the items I build. If you have one of my One Ring shooters, the current version is the 5th generation of that item. The Ring has grown from size 16.5 to the current one that's size 22 and the mounting is more optically clear and is available in several colors. I also stand behind everything I make. I'll give you a full refund including shipping if you don't like it for any reason. I love doing the research and development but it's also nice to recoup some of that investment of time supplies.
As for the swirling image in the stone, I've tried my best to make that happen. By using an optical quality crystal half sphere, the refraction moves the color and sparkles with the slightest change in the angle you view it. Building in an air layer between two separate surfaces of color changes the refractions happening internally adding both considerable depth and complexity. The crystal also picks up area light so that it appears lit even when it's not.
This shooter rod and now button business is how I keep busy in retirement since I don't play golf and prefer to get my fish from the market instead of the Tennessee River. I have an extensive line already and if you can't find one for your machine, I'll develop one for you.
Bill Hanson
PS. To help you decide, I added a discount code PINSIDEHOBBITFORUM just for Forum members for 10% off.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The only question I have is which size to buy? 1.5" or 2"?

2 weeks later
#9892 1 year ago
Quoted from docdeath:

tuna_delight Is overheating of flipper coils a common problem? I have two Stern & one JJP games and haven't notice over heating. This is the first time I've herd of this problem. Maybe it's because my games do not have extended, greater than one hour, play. My son has 23 pinball machines and has also not notice a problem with over heating coils in any of his games. I've been on Pinside for 10+yrs. and this is the first I've heard of this problem.

The coils aren't overheating. That is not the issue. As the coils heat up they lose their 'POP'. You will notice this on most modern games especially when having a long game, long multiballs etc.. where the flippers are getting a lot of use and not much time to cool off.
Typically when this happens you think, 'is it just me or are these flippers not as powerful as they were earlier?' If you have ever said or thought this you have probably been experiencing flipper fade.
If you have never noticed it, it probably won't ever bother you. If you have noticed it, you will want to do something about it.

I don't know if Pinmonk coined the term flipper fade or not (maybe) but he seems to be the first person to actually do something about it. I have seen passive radiators used before to cool off coils but this is the first active cooling solution that I am aware of. I can't wait to get these on my JJPs.

2 months later
#10277 1 year ago
Quoted from marspinball:

How do you get on Wi-Fi once updated. And why would I? Also scorbit any good? The email from jersey jack shows a link to a Bluetooth USB plug. That is not wifi?

To get WiFi you need to add a wifi dongle(USB plug).
To get Bluetooth you need to add a Bluetooth dongle(USB plug).
WiFi is for updating code.
Bluetooth is for wireless headphones and presumably has some Scorebit integration as well.

#10282 1 year ago
Quoted from Kenz:

Caught me off guard that. Expected DI to be next in line for scorbit and wifi connectivity..


2 months later
#10538 9 months ago
Capture13 (resized).jpgCapture23 (resized).jpg
#10540 9 months ago
Quoted from SLRage:

Pretty big difference .
I still bought the originals for $10.00 a pop though. I might be a tight ass but spending a lot on something that pops up quickly and I fling a high speed ball bearing at seemed a bit excessive.
That said….great job on the upgraded ones!!!!

I bought'em both. The price on the factory finds are just way too good to pass up.

1 month later
#10791 7 months ago
Quoted from jsa:

Ah, I see. No, they are two separate options. You can be connected to WiFi for updates/etc. and not connect to us.
I'm not sure why you wouldn't want the achievements/etc., and it doesn't cost anything, but your choice is yours.

I'm not sure why the achievements would be worth the effort. Also not sure why JJP seems hell bent to release updates that only enhance scorebit options on their machines when we would really much rather have updates that improve game play. However if it took scorebit to get JJP to add online updates then it is definitely worth it. USB updates are so yesterday

2 months later
#11040 5 months ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

Has anyone received the beast mold mods from lermods? I'm wondering how they turned out. I haven't seen any talk or pictures so I assume they're still in production phase.

Pretty sure Lermods isn't in the beast business. I think the Art of Pinball via Little Shop of Games is what you are looking for.

4 months later
#11298 19 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I got scorbit running on my game last night.
Its kinda fun!
Im not sure that its anything that I personally would use to any great extent.
But, its fun to play with and I didnt have any trouble getting it to work on my Wi Fi as I have a node in my gameroom for my Sonos.
Has anyone else fiddled around with the scorbit option?
I used this adapter and just plugged it into the end of the USB cable next to the coinbox.
Booted the game and it was seen instantly with no software drivers needed:
amazon.com link »
Hooked it up to my WiFi and it connected pretty easily.
I added the scorbit app to my android phone made an account, followed the instructions on my phone and th game connected.
One thing, you should put your initials in your profile as the scorbit adds them in for you.
Otherwise it just uses your user name.

I have 5 games running scorbit. It is fun and easy. You can easily create a display for your gameroom tv that tracks what is going on and high scores via scorbit as well. If you have JJP games it is a no brainer.

#11302 18 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

How do you hook up a TV?

I connected via my computer.
The Scorbit scoreboard is a webpage.

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