I haven't been able to figure how to light up the gollum ball save, any ideas?
Also anyone know what the red target just past the corner of the right outlane is for?
Mine is so close to the apron that I can't get a bounce off the rubber to hit it. In fact it acts like a gate, just barely big enough to let the ball pass through.Capture1_(resized).jpg

JVSPIN for the win!
I am glad that I asked. This would have taken me a very very long time to figure out!

I'm having an issue where the ball isn't always successfully served up from the ball trough to the plunger. It looks like the ball is being deflected back into the trough by the ball keeper (the tab that closes the ball trough when the playfield is raised.) Anyone else experiencing something similar or have any suggestions?

I like your flipper bats. They look great. Please let us know which ones they are and where they can be found.

Thanks for your review. It is a shame that you didn't get a chance to play a machine without the issues that you mentioned. The Hobbit is a great game even with partial code.

In the future please post your Hobbit comments in a different Hobbit topic. This topic “Hobbit Owners Thread” is very useful for owners that are looking to share their experience, exchange ideas on customization and seek assistance for issues that they are experiencing. There are 70 other Hobbit topics that have been created in the past 3 months alone, I'm sure one of them will meet your needs better than this one. If not please feel free to create your own topic.

436.88 shipped to San Jose with me picking up at terminal. I thought it was expensive too. Forgot all about the cost once I started playing it.

Not sure how it happened but I managed to snag & break a couple of the wires routed around the MAN target bank while raising the playfield last night. The only thing I can guess at is that they got caught on the metal track that the playfield slides on, but that seems unlikely.
Just wanted to put this out there as a warning to other owners to so you can avoid this issue. These wires are so fragile that I didn't feel their resistance as they were breaking while lifting/pulling the playfield.

Also I am interested in any suggestions for repairing/reconnecting these wires. They are so very thin. Anyone know what guage these are?

Here are some pictures
IMG_2348_(resized).JPGIMG_2347_(resized).JPG

You'd think, but this isn't larger than 24 maybe smaller. It is the very small size of the wire that has me asking about repairing it.

LLoyd,
Do you know what size these little un's are and how you would reconnect them?

Thanks Lloyd these are the LED wires and they are definitely not 18 gauge, my current guess is 26 guage. It is possible that my machine is the only one with these small wires but I don't think that is likely.

Thanks Lloyd
These wires are so tiny I was thinking there may be another way to reconnect them other than the tried and true solder method. Anyway I picked up some 1/16" heat shrink and will get out my microscope to try and do the soldering tonight.

I need some trouble shooting tips for the Smaug head. The dragon eyes light up and the mouth moves but the head no longer swivels to face the player. The head swivels freely by hand but doesn't respond to the + or - buttons in the test menu nor does it move side to side during the game.

In the test menu there are 4 squares. Upper Left (UL), Upper Right(UR), Lower Left(LL) and Lower Right(LR). The UL lights up when the head reaches the left stop. The UR lights up when the head reaches the right stop. These squares are presumably driven by switches and if I move the head by hand to the left stop and to the right stop they do light up. The LL lights up when the - volume button is pressed and the LR lights up when the + volume button is pressed. These squares light correctly when the corresponding volume buttons are pressed but the head does not move.

Thanks Lloyd you are the man,

There is a large connector coming out of the back of the PC Box lots of yellow wires ( Manual Version 1.6 page D-72 connector J18.) Turns out this connector was so loose it fell into my hand. Plugged it in and voila. This also fixed the spots not working and the start button light not working.

When I turned it on and everything worked my stress was replaced by euphoria and I was humbled.

Here's to LTG, TH & JJP

What he said

Thanks for the picture.
How did you run the wires out of your cabinet to your sub? Or should I say, which hole did you use?

Also can you show a picture of your input to your sub?

I also have this exact same issue. My assuption is that the groove for the plastic rail was cut too far out. I figure it is at least 1/8" to wide on each side.
Please share any fix that you and Lloyd come up with.

I think that you are right the cabinets are probably either slightly wider to accomodate all the extra goodness found in the TH or they are just out of spec.

I will measure my TH and WOZ tonight and report back with my findings.

While my glass does hit the top guide when I slide it in, my problem is that the glass is narrower than the plastic rails and it will fall out of the rail on one side or another as I am sliding the glass back in place.

Replacing rivets is a pain if you don't have the right tools. If you need help let me know and I will help and/or do the replacement for you.
I have the press to make it look like it was done at the factory. Super convenient if you are in the Bay Area but also willing to do it by mail if you pay for shipping. Not looking to get paid just trying to give back and help out.

What he said +1

IMHO - RRWOZ is the single greatest pinball machine ever. Been playing her 4-8 hours a week going on 2 years now. Still in love, nothing has come close to knocking her out of my top spot.

Thousands, I'm gonna have to check the machine to have a clue. (this number will change to less than a hundred if I ever sell )

Also doesn't the counter reset when the software is updated? If so I can probably back into a number based on the number of games since the last update to v6.06

According to the audits both recent and lifetime games are right around 5000.
So if these reset when the code is updated then total plays since acquisition are in the 15 - 20k range.
Does anyone know if the audits reset when updating the code?

Same here.

The wire form is defective because the ball hits the cross member below the longitudinal wires and becomes airborne. If the longitudinal wires were thicker or the cross members were bent out of the way there wouldn't be airballs. Check out this solution offered a couple of months ago that illustrates this issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/10#post-3171275

This is pointing to post #462 in this topic (Hobbit Owners Thread) I say this because sometimes it is hard to find the post being referred to.

1.3 Delta Game Install is up on JJP support website.

Cheers x 3

http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/game-specific-downloads/the-hobbit-downloads/

If you are referring to the gold in the picture you posted I believe that the gold ring is part of the sticker and the button is clear.

I used your guide to install my Cliffy's this past weekend.
It was very helpful. Thanks a ton for making this tutorial available.

I had an issue where my switch fell out of the button (I don't recall if the light is part of this assembly or not.)
Might try seeing if this is what happened to your button. It just snaps back in place. It took me a bit to figure this out. There isn't a keeper ring or anything else. Just holds itself where it belongs when inserted properly.

No airballs after ramp fix installed at home.

You'll only notice that for the first couple of months

TH seems to be specifically designed to be continuously played in multiball mode. When you look at the requirements for completing certain tasks they are ponderous and repetitive if you only have one ball in play. However if you have six balls going then that is a different thing entirely. Also look at how many ways there are to get multiball modes started, Smaug, Beast, Mode, Add-A-Ball, etc...

Love the ring button mod but not the font or the weird curvature of the letters. I know this is just like what came from the factory on the sticker but I don't like that version either. Seems like this is just crying out for something better.

+1 for Titan

BTW anyone else have trouble with the shooter tip breaking almost immediately with the silicon tips?

There is a difference in gameplay. This difference is most pronounced on how your ball interacts with rollovers. Also the protector will get dirty/scratched and won't come clean. Eventually, I got so sick of looking at my dirty protector I cut it off of the playfield. Cutting it off was a pain in the backside. Once the protector was off though, I had a brand new playfield shining back at me. Protector does a great job of protecting, no doubt about that.

So which one did you keep?

I have both and would only have WOZ if my wife was willing to part with TH

I am having an issue where the F drop target (as in DWAR[F]) will only go down when it has been hit by a ball. I just assumed that this issue was something that would correct itself after a bit of play but that hasn't happened. Not sure if it was like this out of the box but if not it started shortly thereafter.

I ran the solenoid test and was able to determine that the electro-magnet doesn't energize or even make a sound for the F target, unlike all of the other targets. The wiring looks solid, no loose wires found.

Suggestions?

It did. The beauty of a JJP game is the manual comes loaded as part of the system software and you can view the manual on the LCD in the backbox.

"Beautiful" a true innovation in pinball.

If you want a hard copy version of this manual, (which is above and beyond all other machine manuals by a huge margin), nothing else comes close (except the WOZ manual) it is totally worth the $100.

But you have to admit the visual with all of the modes lit is very cool.

Some recommend using a filter to change the color temperature which I think accomplishes what you are hoping to do.
Here is a link to the post about the filter:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/9#post-3168161

Here is a link to the filter on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Filters-24x21-Filter-Sheet/dp/B00FXHVP6S

As for the protector I bought my WOZ with one on (brand new) and eventually cut it off. (BTW it was a PITA to cut off that thing is pretty tough.) I cut it off because it looked like doo doo and underneath was a perfect playfield. In hind sight I wish I would have left it on as my WOZ gets a ton of play and real wear is happening. I have also ordered a Protector for my TSPP and will be installing it instead of getting the playfield clearcoated. So yes you can cut it off, be careful not to damage your playfield with your knife or scissors and plan on it being difficult to cut.

I have read that a bit of two sided tape can solve this

I had the same spring issue but was able to pirate another shoother rod that I had replaced earlier. I have also noticed that the rod is just a slight bit loose in the sleeve of the shooter housing. Seems the rod diameter and the JJP shooter housing are a bit different.

Looks like a part of the popup antiballstuck thingy that keeps balls from getting caught in the mech when the popups retreat.

oops!

Thanks for that!

Mine is the same. The cabinet is just a smidge too wide. Also the support rails are positioned just a little too wide for the rubber feet to both rest on the lockdown bar mech at the same time. little things but still annoying.

Did this issue ever get run to ground. Last night I was in the middle of a multiball fest, Smaug, Beast Frenzy... and BAM lights out. I have an early LE (sackchin) and I am running the latest code.

Thanks for the link to the pictures!

I left my Hobbit on for 8+ hours yesterday and halfway through a long game towards the end of this time the sound started cutting out and getting quieter.
None of the call outs were playing correctly. I didn't notice any video issues but I wasn't watching the videos I was going for the GC score. I had to settle for High Score #2. After my game I power cycled the machine and started a new game. All the sound issues seemed to have been resolved by the reboot.
Does anyone have any similar experiences or know what might be causing this and how to correct it?

Thanks for your post. I am glad to know it isn't something more serious.

Your light setup really makes your machine look great. Thanks for the pics.

I have owned both and still have TH (I'm a diehard JJP fan.) These games are very very different. Both are great and the best chance of getting the right one for your gameroom is to spend some serious time playing both. If this isn't practical then go with the one you are most physically attracted to. It would be great if you both feel the same way. Other things to consider: Both are pretty stable games but in general the Stern will be easier to service if necessary. LOTR is very well known and most people you meet in pinballandia will know and have played this. Everyone will know The Hobbit as well but fewer will have played it. If $ is an issue go with the best price. Both games will continue to be more popular than most and hopefully you will be able to recoup a good percentage of your purchase price when you decide to sell.

You are getting a new ramp, gratis?

I was thinking of the reworked wireform returning to the left. If memory serves the reworked wireform wasn't offered as a warranty to those with the previous wireform. I wonder if this has changed?

The last couple of cross wires at the end of the ramp hit the ball and eject it from the ramp.
If a thicker gauge wire was used or if the wires were just a little closer a lot of this issue would have been avoided.
I assume there were additional issues that led to the redesign or JJP just wanted to nail this figurative door shut by creating a non-ejecting ramp.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/10#post-3171275
Here is a link to a posting from Jvspin covering a file sculpt repair of the cross wires and many including myself have bent the end of the wireform up to solve eject issues.

goes right here where this wireform screw is now.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread#post-3050377

Early version of what JJP sent you, installed

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/7#post-3161281

You can order these from JJP. If you have the thin originals still you may be able to get these on warranty.

While you are at it you may want to install Cliffy protectors on the holes. Since you will have the ramp out of the machine to swap the flaps it is a good time to add the protectors.

My experience was that after pulling the ramp out once, I didn't want to do it again. Glad to have this maintenance task in my rearview.

Good price
GLWS

+1 for removing the playfield protector being a bear. I did it on my WOZ. That protector sure does a good job protecting though.

there are alot of phone apps that you can use for this.
Also you can buy levels at your local hardware store with angle meters(if that is a good name for them.)

Here is link to a google search on digital level:

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=V93PXvzOJITU-gSVjqrIAQ&q=digital+level&oq=digital+level&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAA6DggAEOoCELQCEJoBEOUCOgUIABCDAToECAAQA1DiD1jzHmDLIGgBcAB4AIABRogBoAaSAQIxM5gBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXqwAQY&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwi81qeZ9NbpAhUEqp4KHRWHChkQ4dUDCAk&uact=5

I put up some pics of my new 'legs' mod from Lior.

Take a look:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-the-hobbit-mods

I'm pretty sure that if the battery dies you need to connect a keyboard to provide the necessary input <enter> etc neceessary to boot the machine. This should go away after the first boot once the battery has been replaced.

Here is a post in the WOZ thread regarding this issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/197#post-5456002

Here is a shameless plug for the barrel legs from Lior:
They look great and are super easy to install.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-the-hobbit-sculpted-pinball-mods-by-the-art-of-pinball

pasted_image (resized).png

I think the typical approach is to use the plastic protector below the plastic to prevent ball/plastic contact.
But I don't have an extra plastic. Just a suggestion on how to protect the rest of your plastics.

Not trying to be funny but I have had a lot of success with plastic protectors.
Another pinsider posted a picture with what looks like the protector installed over the plastic. I did that too until someone pointed out to me that the protectors go underneath the plastics.

It is my experience that the time to hit the shot expires many times before I get a shot off.
I have heard that a good strategy is to have a ball cradled in your right flipper before launching the wind-lance.
I can't seem to pull this off either.

Same here.

Are these all the same character?
It looks great!

By playing the game, shooting all the drop and standing targets, holes, ramps, etc...

If you can swap it without removing the mech that is quite a feat.
I had to pull the mech to swap out my warg. Total PITA just like LTG said it was.

Multiballs are what make this game the total rush that it is. Fewer multiballs would only be good if you are looking for a way to not want to play this machine.

I think you can just unplug them and pitch em.

The way they play? The way they look? both?

+1 for Rufus

The only question I have is which size to buy? 1.5" or 2"?

The coils aren't overheating. That is not the issue. As the coils heat up they lose their 'POP'. You will notice this on most modern games especially when having a long game, long multiballs etc.. where the flippers are getting a lot of use and not much time to cool off.
Typically when this happens you think, 'is it just me or are these flippers not as powerful as they were earlier?' If you have ever said or thought this you have probably been experiencing flipper fade.
If you have never noticed it, it probably won't ever bother you. If you have noticed it, you will want to do something about it.

I don't know if Pinmonk coined the term flipper fade or not (maybe) but he seems to be the first person to actually do something about it. I have seen passive radiators used before to cool off coils but this is the first active cooling solution that I am aware of. I can't wait to get these on my JJPs.

To get WiFi you need to add a wifi dongle(USB plug).
To get Bluetooth you need to add a Bluetooth dongle(USB plug).
WiFi is for updating code.
Bluetooth is for wireless headphones and presumably has some Scorebit integration as well.

+1

I bought'em both. The price on the factory finds are just way too good to pass up.

I'm not sure why the achievements would be worth the effort. Also not sure why JJP seems hell bent to release updates that only enhance scorebit options on their machines when we would really much rather have updates that improve game play. However if it took scorebit to get JJP to add online updates then it is definitely worth it. USB updates are so yesterday

Pretty sure Lermods isn't in the beast business. I think the Art of Pinball via Little Shop of Games is what you are looking for.

I have 5 games running scorbit. It is fun and easy. You can easily create a display for your gameroom tv that tracks what is going on and high scores via scorbit as well. If you have JJP games it is a no brainer.

I connected via my computer.
The Scorbit scoreboard is a webpage.

I find these shots much easier to backhand then straight on.

Me too, same issue.

Just apply the tape over the LED's?

duplicate

Similar to the pinblades, can we do the soapy water trick with these decals to position them?

Sorry you didn't get it, that would have been a good deal.

You can always do a full install to the latest version. Make sure you backup your settings, just in case.

Any CR2032 will work? Or are some better than others?

It is on the motherboard.
My Hobbit has a silver box on the bottom of the cabinet that houses the PC for the game.
This is where the motherboard is, at least on my WOZ and TH.

From Pinball Life website:
"Updated direct replacement driver board for Jersey Jack Pinball machines starting with Toy Story.

Suitable replacement for Guns N' Roses & prior machines with the exception of Wizard of Oz."

Watch this.

I have experienced this as well, but I believe it was on a different JJP. I didn't do any investigating, just unplugged the ethernet cable until after boot and all was good.

That sucks, you should reach out to TAOP with this. They stand behind their products.

The originals really leave a lot to be desired in the looks dept. and I had one break after 100 plays or so. However, I haven't experienced paint loss with the originals.