The Hobbit
Jersey Jack, 2016You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider energyspike.
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A little late to the party, #1257 arrived yesterday. Open box photo reduced price with factory fixes. Smaug had loose screws, was rubbing against ramp now fixed. Looks like they bent the ramp near the head to avoid the rubbing. I have an EOS error on the right flipper, no broken wire so I assume it is just a bad switch...thoughts?
20190712_142116 (resized).jpg20190713_080118 (resized).jpg20190713_080215 (resized).jpg20190713_081613 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinballomatic:Goes under the ramp it’s a diffuser for the ramp LEDs
Thank you
Quoted from LTG:Bad switch isn't likely. They are leaf blade switches, you can see if both are intact. Clean by putting a piece of paper between them and gently hold closed while pulling the paper out. Tests - Switches - Dedicated.
If it doesn't register in test. Look at the other EOS switches for a broken wire. Or a connector not plugged in under the playfield.
LTG : )
Thanks, the other 2 flipper eos switches are working so I'll check underneath for a disconnect. I'll also pull it out and clean / inspect...
Quoted from LTG:Bad switch isn't likely. They are leaf blade switches, you can see if both are intact. Clean by putting a piece of paper between them and gently hold closed while pulling the paper out. Tests - Switches - Dedicated.
If it doesn't register in test. Look at the other EOS switches for a broken wire. Or a connector not plugged in under the playfield.
LTG : )
LTG, followed your suggestion, even removed EOS Switch to inspect, still not working. Left flipper and upper right are still working fine. Checked connections on main box and board J601, reconnected etc.. Where do I go from here?
20190713_192223 (resized).jpg20190713_192308 (resized).jpgQuoted from mountaingamer:Hi Energyspike - your checking with a meter - correct?
Yes, metered all wires in the daisy chain and are good (EOS Switches are all good). All the wires, black / white stripe, black / brown stripe, black / red stripe and black at the connector to the IO Board are good. Could it be an IO Board issue? Thoughts?
Quoted from mountaingamer:That’s what it’s sounding like. I would go into dedicated switches tests, then pull the connector at the io board. With the connector off you could take a piece of wire and short the pins for black / black-brown. If nothing changes then it’s the board.
Thank you for the suggestion. The IO Board is good, that was a quick way to check.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ohm Meter the connector at the EOS.
Manually actuate the switch.
Does it close?
Continue to the next connector.
Manually actuate the switch.
Does it close?
Do this until you reach the final connector at the PC board, test again.
Verify there are no loose pins or bad crimps from the EOS all the way to the PC board.
Do this first.
Test that the connector at the PC board actually contacts the pins on the PC board.
Momentarily Jumper the pins on the PC board for that switch.
It should activate.
Check for loose pin or cold joint on the PC board.
Check and meter all fuses, check for loose fuse holders.
Thank you both for the help, Pinside members are awesome...
I narrowed it down step by step as suggested, it was the connector to the IO Board, I pulled out the black / brown stripe wire and bent the crimp wider secured back into the connector and were good (Holy crap Batman, to the very end). I learned a lot today and feels good to resolve. It is understandable that all that wiring and connectors and complexity of these machines, something so small can go wrong. I just got into pinball over a year ago and love it and hope to do small restore projects when I retire ( 5 years).
Love this game so far, it is everything that I expected after reading through this whole thread....
20190713_192308Arrow (resized).jpgA new issue recently, the skill shot will randomly reset when the ball kicks from the trough into the shooter lane. Checked switches to see if there were any issues, all showed working normal. Thoughts? The next ball will sometimes have the skill shot available but seems to be lessand less as I test / play.
Thanks,
Quoted from LTG:I'd try going into Tests - Switches - Matrixed, then bang on the playfield. See if vibration sets any off. If so adjust as needed.
LTG : )
Will do....Thank you!
Quoted from LTG:I'd try going into Tests - Switches - Matrixed, then bang on the playfield. See if vibration sets any off. If so adjust as needed.
LTG : )
LTG, Smaug left limit is triggered when banging on the play-field, nothing else....Would this be the issue?
Quoted from LTG:Could be.
LTG : )
What adjustments are available? Does that include removing Smaug?
Quoted from LTG:If so, it would be an issue with his optos. Nothing you could adjust. Check wires, solder joints, flaky opto ?
LTG : )
Thanks again, appreciate the support!
Quoted from DudeRegular:Swapped the exhaust fan on the CPU box today. The new fan moves air at a much lower sound level.
This is what I used:
amazon.com link »
The connector is not the same so it does require a change there. I simply cut off the connector from the stock fan and soldered that up to the new fan wires. Then heat shrink tube over your the soldered area. You can leave the yellow wire off.
I've wanting to do the same. As a PC modder / builder the noise from the fan put it on the "to do" list but noticed the connectors were different and was planning on getting the tool to crimp and connectors to match but your way is much cheaper...Thanks for the link
Quoted from CLEllison:A real modder would liquid cool the coils. Only losers use air lol
Agreed, lol
Quoted from paynemic:Sorry, clarifying a previous question:
Does anyone know what voltage these little rc motor coolers run on?
Not sure if this will fit a flipper coil but says:4.8 - 7.4 volts
Castle (resized).pngQuoted from Mr_Outlane:Thanks!
I would never have guessed the BB would be easy to remove on this game!
No matter though, I was reasonable sure it would fit, so I drove 200 miles and got a beautiful Hobbit Smaug!! So it fits! Game is awesome! Wife loves it the most!!
I'm in the club!!
Now to figure out why the left lower flipper EOS switch is erroring as open. The last owner changed the EOS switch and no go. I guess he talked to LLoyd and was advised that it's probably a break in the wire some where? Haven't had time yet to check it out. In other words, if I pull up the flipper, there is no registration in switch test?
Check my post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/145#post-5092903
And follow to post #7240....
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:OK,
thanks to Energyspike I fixed the lower right flipper EOS switch! It turned out to be a bad connector at the plug into the rear of the metal PC box. Like him, I pulled out the black/brown stripe wire and bent the crimp wider and secured it back into the connector housing and was good. I also learned along the way that even if the EOS switch is detected by the computer to not be functioning, the software will only allow a maximum signal pulse such that the coil operates, but will not be energized enough to over heat and melt! How cool is that?
Thanks again!!!
Awesome, I receive so much help on the forum, I'm glad to be able to help others. Enjoy the game!
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:I went through the Smaug Head tests. We turns left and right perfectly. Then I ran the mouth test. It would not open and close at all.
Settings were for 100 and 120 like LTG has. I think that is factory.
I'm hoping this is just the USB wire? Anyone else have this issue? Thoughts?
Thank you.
Murph
The mouth stopped working on Smaug a couple of moths ago. During the test I would nudge the upper part and it would move again for a few times then stop. It took it all apart and could not find any lose wires or connections. Called JJP and had them send me a new servo motor. However, since a new motor was on the way and had nothing to lose, I moved the upper part of the mouth with my hand all the way up and back down 10 times in a row, rather quickly, and as strange as that may sound, it has been working ever since. Just telling my primitive method of a last ditch effort.....I can only guess that there was some kind hang up going on inside the servo motor and I can rest comfortably knowing I have a new servo in wait if the current motor gives up the ghost.
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Not sure about what you mean with the "upper part of the mouth"? Only the lower part moves. But I did what you suggested and moved the jaw slowly several times. Found no binding of the servo. Took the back of the head off and saw the wire bracket that connects from the servo to the jaw in one piece and mounted properly. I plan on ordering a servo motor and an extra USB cable just to have an extra for quick testing.
Thanks !
Murphy
Ahh, you are correct..
Quoted from Dreadreaper:Omg just went to inspect the fuses and saw THE CPU FAN/HEAT SINK HAD BROKEN OFF THE CPU!!!! Absolute miracle the CPU didn't fry. I suppose I just apply new thermal paste and reconnect CPU fan / heat sync?
Recommend you guys check your CPU fan/heat sinks.
The stock heat sink and fan has four posts that snap into the motherboard and usually quite snug. When you CPU reaches high temp it will throttle back or just freeze up to protect itself. I'm assuming it was not installed properly. Yes, use alcohol to clean the cpu and bottom of heat sink and re-apply compound. The motherboards lay flat in the Hobbit unlike POTC (this would have more of a chance of coming off if not installed properly) which is on the back box so I'll give mine a look at today.
Quoted from paynemic:You did the cmos clear step? Or maybe JJP did it?
Do you have an old pc you could just hook the mobo into? I have done that before. Sounds like a bad power supply to me. Mine went out on jjpotc. I replaced it with a spare I had for pc parts and it worked great.
Agreed, the next logical step would be the power supply at this point since the motherboard checked out good..
Quoted from Antron77:Well I tested with a different power supply and that didn't help. JJP has me sending back my motherboard again, along with the security dongle this time. As well as my stock power supply and hard drive. They are thinking at this point it might be the security dongle or some connection between these 3 parts. At this point I have no idea. Packing everything up this morning to send in. Wish me luck......
Wishing you luck. I had assumed that they had tested your MB, ram and security dongle to rule out all of those possible issues. I have a new MB on the shelf as well as ram for the hobbit as I was concerned about the distant future and knowing how computer parts can fail etc. I have a new MB for POTC as well.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Done!
Thanks!!!
What was your shipping cost? To Cali was 47.00 UPS or JJ low cost, estimate via email.
Quoted from Antron77:Ram stick was bad. Wish they would have seen that the 1st time I sent the mother board in. All is well now. Finally back up and running. He'll yeah![quoted image]
Good news!
Quoted from Travahontas:Hey fellow Hobbitses...
I developed a mod to address a pet peeve of mine with the layout of this game. I really get tired of 1. not using the third flipper much, and 2. draining from rejects or dribbles out of the pop bumpers. I've always felt like there should have been a gate at the entrance of Bag End, but it's just missing. So I made a gate
Is this something anyone but me is interested in?
Operation:
Installation:
Trumpanche, did you 3d print the plastic holder? If so, can you send me the file? I just had family over and the sdtm happened from the bumpers a few times, I would like to give this a try.
Thanks
Quoted from Reaper802:Finally got to meet up with my buddy and pick up the 3D prints. The fit and finish is solid so I've posted the print files to Thingiverse. You will need to print two of the gate holders and one center brace. Print time is less than 15 minutes and it uses less than 2 cents of PLA. I know some people have mentioned they do not own or have access to a 3D printer but keep in mind there are plenty of websites out there that will print and ship the parts to you for just a few bucks. Many public libraries here in the US now also offer 3D printer time for a small donation.
For the gate itself, I wanted to see how cheap I could go for this first test. As such, I used a large paper clip that I bent into the needed shape. I'm amazed how well it is working, just flawless so far in testing. Once the Pandemic is over, I'll make a run to Lowes and pick up some 0.06" music wire to test a beefier gate. If you go the paperclip route, your all up cost is under ten cents after double sided tape. If you get fancy with the music wire, you may be closer to a full dollar to finish the project.
Once you have the gate mostly bent, add the gate holders and then glue them to the center brace with a few drops of super glue. My gate is about half an inch down for a size reference when bending. The two alignment holes will keep everything nice and square as the glue dries over a few seconds. Add a small strip of double sided tape in the space between the two gate holders and install in the game. It's just that simple. I'm not convinced it adds a ton to the game or how I attack it yet but I'll continue to test with it and see if it grows on me. Enjoy!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4780354
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome, thank you for posting the 3d print and sharing for others to mod. Looks good and will print this up tonight!
Printed the gate mod and have tried piano wire and stainless welding rod (tough to bend). So far the piano wire is working well, it's a tad light so the bumpers tend to cause it to bounce back up from time to time and the ball rolls back through but gives a new dynamic. I appreciate the that idea was brought back and enjoy building the mods myself.
20210304_155352 (resized).jpg20210304_155432 (resized).jpgQuoted from Travahontas:energyspike Looks good! The ones I offer don't have 100% success at keeping the ball in the pops either - there's always that random chance it sneaks back past the gate. And I think you're right - the heavier wire in my kits does seem to keep it up there more often than the lightweight paperclips from my early prototypes.
Welcome to the exclusive Gated Community
Agreed, in regard to the gate wire. I do find myself shooting the bumpers more often and due to the gate, getting more bumper action as it seems to stay in longer. When funneling to the 3rd flipper I get the more frequent call outs by Gandalf saying to hit the dwarf target. It's a nice addition and improvement to an already awesome game.
Quoted from Bendit:Good person alert: spoke with Ken Holland at Jersey Jack and he shipped me a Smaug control board quickly (and cheap). Communication was great, and fast.
Good person alert #2: metahugh was super helpful in assisting me with my Smaug issue.
Every time I called, service was great and in the early days they warrantied all the parts I needed. When out of warranty in one particular instance, I just paid shipping. I know some threads say different but customer service at JJP has been awesome and glad to here others having the same experience and posting about it..
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its truly worth it!
Agreed, there was no flipper fade on a long game yesterday. For those who are on the edge about it I say it is a really good mod. I went the DIY route but the package from Slapdrain looks like good quality and has all you need for a quick install. I simply enjoy the challenge of making my own when possible....
20220510_184518 (resized).jpg20220510_184525 (resized).jpg20220510_184558 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Goronic:Check to be sure it isn’t touching the ramp to the left. I found that mine was getting hung on that and it looked like it was forcing movement.
Same was happening to mine, hitting / rubbing on ramp...
Quoted from konghusker:Lloyd said a new hobbit update released today. Anybody see the breakdown of what it added or fixed? I’m not seeing anything so wondering if it’s just a beta release
Thanks for the heads up..
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Wheatland, CA