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(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

4 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (4 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (4 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (4 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (4 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (4 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (4 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (4 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (4 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1315 4 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Just added the trifecta! Lol loving the hobbit!

Nice Photos. I see you have the lighted leg protectors and lighted shooter rod housing. I assume they are 12v. I already have the items. How did you power them? Did you use the 12v lead from the coin door, or do use an independent 12v power supply. Also, it looks like you have under cab/rear back box lightening. What did you use and where did you purchase them? Are they on constantly, or do they flash with game play?

Thanks, Frank

#1322 4 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Used a separate power supply! Not sure where LED's are from as my business bought a bunch a long time ago for a job...on constant but I had my F-14 Tomcat doing the flashing thing that worked off different targets in the machine but got a little annoying....whole led strip on bottom and one on back for full glow partial led strips in back of play field top and at apron on flipper area!

Thanks for the info! Additional question: Did you purchase the lighted shoot rod housings from Beetmaster? His are made for Stern machines. Can they be installed in JJP's machines? Are the housings similar?

#1337 4 years ago

Thanks again for the response. One more question: You have a sub woofer on your hobbit. Did you use pinnovators.com for hook up or did you run speaker wires directly from the sub to the + and - terminals in the cabinet sub using alligator clips?

#1406 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Bought these from Amazon for $5, comes with 2x of them
http://amzn.to/23fgpzX
1) You can see a splitter plug in the top RCA output on the computer case (this is where the factory sub normally plugs in)
2) Plug the factory sub in one end
3) Plug the other splitter in the other end
4) Plug a RCA -> 3.5mm cable into the other splitter and run it to your sub. This is one I recommend:
http://amzn.to/24V07LM

TH will be shipped to me in Sept. I want to install a sub woofer. On your posts, it seems that + and - connections are of no concern. With your suggested splitters (2) and master output cable (1) from Amazon, plus your photos, you just plug and connect as photographed and every thing is fine. Is that correct?

Also, does TH have a plate were the WOZ had one for the AUX out? If so, one could remove this plate to gain cable access to inside the cabinet.

3 months later
#2394 3 years ago
Quoted from madscientist101:

I am still waiting for my Smaug LE that I ordered well over a year ago. I will never order direct from JJ again as I could of got one from a distributor that has them in stock a while ago. And I hear they are making the black arrows now FBS! JJ should fulfill customers orders that have paid in full. When I emailed them I didn't even get a solid answer to when I will receive my game. "Just the game will be on the next list submitted to production" "I will let you know when your game is closer to shipping" Nice just keep using my money to develop lame games like dialed in that makes me cringe. Regardless to how well it plays the art looks terrible and would devalue my lineup on its sheer presence.

I ordered my LE Hobbit 3 years ago direct from JJ (ordered 12/3013) and still have not received it. Is anybody else still waiting after 3 years? Is Jen still on maternity leave? Katie does not have the best communication skills. In July, Jen emailed me that my game was about to be submitted for production and then she went on maternity leave. Then in September, after inquiry, Katie said: We're had a bit of delay waiting on toys from our vender. We're expecting them next week. We will do our best to get your game out to you as soon as we possibly can." Since then, no response!

-2
#2400 3 years ago

There were the same problems (delay in production) with the Wizard of Oz. JJ's Pinball did not evolve or learn from their mistakes. They are still delayed in production/assembly with poor communication. Also, from the above posts, I'm worried about their quality control.

#2402 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

There were the same problems (delay in production) with the Wizard of Oz. JJ's Pinball did not evolve or learn from their mistakes. They are still delayed in production/assembly with poor communication. Also, from the above posts, I'm worried about their quality control.

I've been pleasantly informed that many of the above problems are a result of delivery trauma/vibration during shipment, not quality control issues of recently produced games.

#2404 3 years ago

Is Jen back @ Jersey Jack's from maternity leave? From above recent posts, it sounded like she was, yet when I just emailed her, I got the same automated reply: ...out for maternity leave...contact Katie, etc.

1 week later
#2454 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I like the upper sling to be able to bounce up through the lanes a bit to play the bounce/lane change game for bonuses.
I have it just right for me as it doesnt stay up there too long, just long enough to get a bonus multiplier once in awhile.
WOZ comes with black rubber through-out but has white for the upper sling.
I might just re-do it all and go with all white on my WOZ as others have done. It looks nice but gets dirty fast.
Changing it to a black rubber on the upper sling is a little less bouncy but lasts a lot longer.
I do like the bouncy feel of white rubber, its amazing on my TH and ToM.

Why not use transparent rubber rings throughout the PF. I replaced all black/white rubber rings on my Avengers LE Hulk and Tron Pro over a year ago and have no problems. Purchase from Terry at Pinballlife.

Which is best: black/white/transparent rubber rings?

#2455 3 years ago

Those are plastic flipper bats, probably white, with gold paint. With time, the paint may chip off! It happen to me! A purest would order metallic bats (stainless steel) and have them powder coated.

#2460 3 years ago

Where did you purchase the GOLD flipper bats. I have purchased 2 Gold sets, one from pinballlife and one from Pinball Center in Germany. Both sets were white plastic bats painted gold. The gold paint has started to flake off in both sets!

Thanks

#2508 3 years ago

Just received my LE Hobbit. It was ordered 12/2013. I got it with Rad-cals. Upon receipt, a large tear/hole of the cardboard shipping box was noticed on the upper right side. With flashlight inspection, there appears to be no gross trauma (scratches/gouges, etc.) to the cabinet. However, there is a semi-translucent membrane partially detached from around the flipper button. It will peal off easily. Is it a protective cabinet shipment membrane, or is it a damaged Rad-cal? I have not yet unboxed the machine.

#2510 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

It's just the protective coating, it's meant to be peeled off

Thank you, thank you, thank you for your immediate response! You made my day. Now all I have to do is get the boxed machine from my garage to my basement game room.

#2511 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Laseriffic makes non-interactive toppers (the only Hobbit one so far that I know of)
beatmaster makes barrel spot lights, shooter rod housing lights (I bought yellow)
mustangpaul makes leg light up kits (I will eventually buy yellow)
a few people make plastic protectors
Amazon sells some small Hobbit keys, swords, & other things that a few people have added - I'll add those soon
Not much other than that ... I wish there was more too.

You can do flipper button LEDs, under cabinet lighting, subwoofer, external volume control from Pinnovators, etc.

1 week later
#2563 3 years ago

HELP NEEDED! I finally received my LE Hobbit (production date of 10/21). When I turn it on, no PF lights come on. The LCD screen, the PF book, the 4 spotlights, and the Start Button work. Also, the Smaug head turns. The machine also does not recognize that no balls are present (I had not added the 5 balls; I just wanted to see the PF lit; I was going to install the Cliffy's protectors first). On inspection, there are 3 Molex units not connected towards the back & bottom of the cabinet (see photo): one female with 2 blue wires, one male with 1 black & 1 yellow wires, and one male with 2 white, 1 green, 2 black wires (it's multi wire harness is relatively long compared to the other two).

I'm sure theses should be connected somewhere. Any advice is well appreciated.

TH 001 (resized).JPG

#2566 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The yellow wire and black wire one isn't used. The other two are. Dig around the rear on the metal box with the boards, under it, and sides, to find the other ends to plug them into.
LTG : )

There are no wires going under the metal box. There are no wires coming out from under the box. I checked all sides and could not see or feel any. I really don't want to lift the metal box! If the sought after connectors are under the box, where are the respective supplying wires coming from? They surely wouldn't be arising through the metal bottom of the box?

#2568 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Under the playfield between the character pop ups, find the board in this picture. Plug the USB cable back in - you'll have playfield lights.
LTG : )

It worked!!! Thank you, thank you! This is why I'm happy to donate money to Pinside!

Can I ignore the unconnected Molex units as previously described? You said the yellow/black wire one isn't used. What about the other 2?

#2575 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I agree. Most likely every machine if the wires are held by the same method.
In looking at my mech's again while I was doing the flap fix I noticed that every single one of them had a degree of cuts through the wire insulation (red box in the pic below).

I had actually stopped it from occurring accidentally some time ago by using a metal washer to stop the mech from becoming jammed due to the other beast fix.
By adding the washer it actually makes a gap into which the wire has somewhere to safely sit.
Pic below has the mech in the fully up position (green box) showing how the washer creates the gap (red box).

What size washer did you use. Thanks

#2576 3 years ago

My later production Hobbit (10/21) came with the "beast fix" installed: clear plastic inserts, 3/16'" thick. I assume I have to add the "washer fix" to prevent amputation of the green & white wires. Is my assumption correct? What size washer is best, diameter & thickness?

It looks like it is quite difficult to install each of the 4 washers!

#2580 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I can't speak for you specifically as the beast fix plastic may have changed now but see if the wires can get scissored between the plastic and the metal guide.
You only need a single washer. 4 total for the entire machine. Install it on the screw on which it has the curved metal slide.
Super easy and takes only a few seconds without having to remove anything else.

Thanks for your patience and response. I found your previous posts (page 46 in this Hobbit thread). I checked and the wires don't get crimped between the plastic insert & metal guide. Thanks again.

#2588 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Anybody know of any decal kits for the standup targets? The set i put on WOZ really made game look finished and Hobbit has the same unfinished look with the standups all over the place.

I'm sure you're talking about the yellow targets, the three sets of three? It really is an "unfinished look". I used the three brown target decals for the Tron Pro Recognizer target bank. I had two extra sets (3/set). I went to pinballlife to purchase the third. However, your have to purchase the Tron Decal Set (approx. $14 to $15), even through you are going to use just the three brown target decals. That's one solution, but quite expensive (approx. $45) to get a total of 9 target decals! I will add, though, they really look great.

#2589 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I'm sure you're talking about the yellow targets, the three sets of three? It really is an "unfinished look". I used the three brown target decals for the Tron Pro Recognizer target bank. I had two extra sets (3/set). I went to pinballlife to purchase the third. However, your have to purchase the Tron Decal Set (approx. $14 to $15), even through you are going to use just the three brown target decals. That's one solution, but quite expensive (approx. $45) to get a total of 9 target decals! I will add, though, they really look great.

Note before & after photos. The TRON Pro/TRON LE High Wear Decal Set from Pinball Life is $9.95. You only use the 3 Recognizer target decals/set, so you have to order 3 sets. Shipping is approx. $8 to $9. The decals are of high quality & easy to install & easy to remove & reinstall if you make a mistake with alignment. There're black with a light brown/tan peripheral line.

I also added 81/2" mylar arch cover strips to protect the apron along the ball drain alley. I purchased them from Marco Specialties.

target decal 001 (resized).JPG

target decal 002 (resized).JPG

#2599 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Where did you get these from? Do they scratch? I need to find something to cover the gouges in my black.. stuff =/

I can't remember if their from tilt graphics, pin graffix or on eBay. They are of high quality & resistant to scratch, but they will if PF lifted carelessly. At the time of purchase, there were only two choices. The set I got, as pictured in previous post, and a set that were light tan and fit the theme of the apron decal.

When I received the graphics, they did not fit the contour of the backside of the cabinet. There was also no hole for the back box hinge nut/cap. Luckily, I had a set of Hobbit mirror blades. I used them as a template to cut the back ends of the graphics and make a hole for the hinge nut/cap. The hole is 5/8" diameter.

Presently, I like my graphics better than the regular mirror blades. I'll live with them awhile, but I did order a set of mirrored black blades. They might be really dramatic!

To protect the black cabinet sides, mirror blades if installed, or the decal graphics when raising the PF, I insert & tape sheets of paper between the cabinet sides and the PF, then raise the PF. It's a pain in the butt, but it's worth the protection!

#2602 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Your words speak of wisdom I've yet to even have a taste of. I won't rag on the JJP folks for having me lift the PF so much, it's a learning experience I guess...?
Mind if I ask where the mirror black blades came from? In my head they look sick as F@#&! The ones you had in the picture sure 'nuff were from tilt folks. I like them better than the gauged stock black stuff I have now but the faces on those decals don't do it for me.

I purchased the mirrored black side mirrors from Pinball Decals: http://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html. On this site, they are the WMS blades which fit JJP's machines. They are expensive (approx. $220 with shipping). I asked Joey if the hole for the back box rear hinge nut/cap is 5/8". He measured it and said it's between 9/16" & 5/8". That should be large enough. If too tight, use a round file or a Dremal tool with a grinding stone to slightly enlarge the hole (keep protective film on). Hole enlargement, if necessary, doesn't need to be perfect because the nut/cap has a flange to hide any irregular enlargement. You do need some play (between 1 to 2mm) to be able to position the blades in perfect alignment with the top edge of the cabinet sides.

#2605 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I can't remember if their from tilt graphics, pin graffix or on eBay. They are of high quality & resistant to scratch, but they will if PF lifted carelessly. At the time of purchase, there were only two choices. The set I got, as pictured in previous post, and a set that were light tan and fit the theme of the apron decal.
When I received the graphics, they did not fit the contour of the backside of the cabinet. There was also no hole for the back box hinge nut/cap. Luckily, I had a set of Hobbit mirror blades. I used them as a template to cut the back ends of the graphics and make a hole for the hinge nut/cap. The hole is 5/8" diameter.
Presently, I like my graphics better than the regular mirror blades. I'll live with them awhile, but I did order a set of mirrored black blades. They might be really dramatic!
To protect the black cabinet sides, mirror blades if installed, or the decal graphics when raising the PF, I insert & tape sheets of paper between the cabinet sides and the PF, then raise the PF. It's a pain in the butt, but it's worth the protection!

Photo of paper sheet protection of cabinet side wall, mirror blades, or decal with PF raising.

Hobbit Cab & PF protection 001 (resized).JPG

#2607 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I'm holding out for the PowerBladez for TH from PinGraffix. Take a look at what they did for the MET Creeping Death version. Everyone lobby PinGraffix to work on the TH version next in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poll-which-powerbladez-would-you-like-to-see-pingraffix
The more votes in our favor the better!

Holy cow. I didn't know such PowerBladez cabinet sides were in existence. I went to the thread a voted for the Hobbit. What is the cost? Maybe I should have waited on purchasing the mirrored black side mirrors!!!

#2609 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

That's why they have that "poll" thread - to see what the interest is for which theme to take on next. They have matching speaker grills too. I think the animated PowerBladez were $299. I hope they do a TH version soon. I'm holding out for it. They said one for ACDC is about to be released. I'll likely get that one too.
Vote, vote, vote!
Now we just need an animated AND interactive topper for TH!

Photo of my Hobbit topper to be installed. I'll try to make it interactive with LED spotlighting.

smaug 001 (resized).JPG

#2612 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I bought the Weta Smaug Bust from Black Friday deals as well to put in as a topper We are trying to figure out today how to install it - what is your plan, how to put it in its place?

I will use Velcro strips on the bottom of the bust!

#2613 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I will use Velcro strips on the bottom of the bust!

You can also use double-sided mounting tape such as Scotch Clear 3M tape. It holds 10# in a vertical position (of course the bust is mounted flat). The potential problem here is if you ever have to remove the bust from the top of the back box. It would be quite difficult! That's why I think Velcro is the best solution.

#2615 3 years ago

Lloyd the Great, help: When I go into the test mode to test various coils, it says push the start button to test. When I do that, nothing happens! Thanks

#2617 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Lloyd the Great, help: When I go into the test mode to test various coils, it says push the start button to test. When I do that, nothing happens! Thanks

How stupid/naïve am I!!! You have to close the coin door to test!!!!!

#2618 3 years ago

I have another problem I can't for the life of me figure out. With game play, the right flipper migrates upward. If it was loose, it would migrate downward. The flipper bat rod is anchored really tight. I can't screw it tighter.

#2622 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Or pull out the high power interlock switch. Top white switch on left side of coin door opening.

You might have a defective pawl that can't be tightened. It isn't holding the flipper shaft tight enough. Give it all you got.
LTG : )

I checked the coil stop & sleeve per above post. Everything is OK. This is a new game with only 10 plays, so I was sure that was not the problem. I invited my 300 pound neighbor over to tighten the pawl, and sure enough, with his strength, the flipper bat is now tight & secure without upward/downward movement with play. Thanks, LTG

1 week later
#2653 3 years ago

POTENTIAL HELP NEEDED (attn. LTG & Others): I have approx. 30 game plays on my LE Hobbit. Today I played 2 games without any problems. In the middle of the 3rd game, both LCD screens (back box & Book) went black. I finished the game without screens functioning and blindly initialed the game. I started another game, both screens still dark, quickly finished the game & turn the pinball Off. After approx. 5 min., I turn the game on & everything was fine. Both screens worked. I played 4 more games without problem. Question: Is there a potential problem brewing? Maybe I have a semi-loose connection? Any suggestions? Should I keep playing till the problem arises again, or should I check something now? If "something now", what?

#2655 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

That would be my first thought.
LTG : )

When I turn on the game, there is a double static/power surge (?), a "snap-snap" over the sound system, not immediately but when the LCD screens come on. Is this normal? This has always bin the case, from my first game play to present. On some of my other machines, there is also a single power surge (?) snap when I turn them on, but it is immediate.

#2670 3 years ago

Quick Question: Aren't the four PF spotlights 12V?

1 week later
#2740 3 years ago

Last night played multiple games with no issues and have had no issues with the goblin pop up since getting the game. All of a sudden goblin pop up will try and pop up when the goblin switch is activated but doesn't pop all the way up and stay up. Investigated multiple things; manually pushing goblin up, it will slide up and down with no restrictions. The wires are free and not catching. Tried to fire the coil in coil test mode and it fires but doesn't pop up as far as the other pop ups do. If I slightly push up manually on the goblin(less then an 8th of an inch) it will pop up when firing the coil in test mode. Again, moving the goblin up manually there is no restrictions. Playfield was put down and played a game and it worked for about six pop ups and then went back to it wanting to pop up but doesn't stay up (you can here the coil fire and it moves up about a 1/4th of an inch then falls back down). I tried putting in a couple of washers to pitch the mechanism, sliding the mechanism to the left as the top right corner of the goblin appears to have a corner that could possible be hitting the side of the playfield but visibly inspecting the mechanism(sliding it up and down) the movement looks like it is not catching any where and it moves freely. Now when the game is played and goblin switch is activated it will try and pop up once(moves about a 1/4th of an inch falls down) then pops up and stays up. It has symptoms of the mechanism binding or catching but manually sliding it up and down it is not catching or binding. Wondering what I should try next?

Also; In coil test number 7, what is this the "coil hold"? It does nothing when activated. All other pop ups are the same, you can fire the individual coil then the next test below is "coil hold" and it doesn't do anything...

#2744 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check if the character face is too sensitive and triggering a hit on the way up.

Try holding the thing up and then press hold and see if it holds. That is how flippers usually work.
LTG : )

Quoted from freddy:

do you have the pop up plastic fix kit? if so i had similar issues and i had to file / chamfer the edges of the plastics as the goblin, orc and spider hit them. especially the goblins "eye bump". you will find when play field is up everything slides nice but in play field down position the faces rub and hang up. GL hope this helps.

LTG and Freddy thank you for the speedy replies. I have inspected the goblin face and the plastic fix. I believe the sensitivity of the leaf switch on the face was to close and pulling it back a bit has fixed the issue. Have played multiple games and no issues! Its time to open bottle of wine!!!

#2762 3 years ago

Smaug Bust Topper finally mounted! The small color changing LED spotlight on the right has red, green, blue, white, orange, yellow, cyan, & purple programmable colors with flash, jump, fade, speed, & brightness settings. Behind Gollum, I mounted a Beatmaster"s barrel spotlight with an orange 906 LED to illuminate the left & under sides of Smaug. The photos don't do it justice.

Smaug bust with LED 002 (resized).JPG

Smaug bust with LED 001 (resized).JPG

#2763 3 years ago

Additional photo with Gollum removed.

Smaug minus Gollum 001 (resized).JPG

#2769 3 years ago

BEATMASTER'S BARREL SPOTLIGHTS INSTALLED!

Bob's mods are professionally made and assembled. The barrel spotlights are plug & play (just the same as the four black PF spotlights) with 2-pin female Molex connectors included, without the crimp type male terminals inserted. They really add to the theme of the PF. They cost approx. $50 per set (2 barrels/set) + shipping, so you need to order 2 sets (total of 4). When you order, tell Bob that they are for the Hobbit: He makes the wire leads the correct length to reach the male Molex connector ends under the PF.

You will also need to purchase 1/4" hex post spacers, m-f, 8-32 thread, to elevate the barrels above the wire form runways: 1" length for left lower spotlight, 1" length for right lower spotlight, & 2" length for right upper spotlight (here, I combined two 1" length spacers because I had them on hand). Marco Specialties have the spacers in stalk. The base posts to which you add the spacers are 3/16" hex. I used the 1/4" spacer on top because I think it looks better. Besides, the base post of the right upper spotlight in my machine is 1/4". After the photos were taken, I added an 1/2" spacer to the left upper spotlight. There is a better fit of the barrel next to the wire cage.

INSTALLATION NOTES: You only need to raise the PF up on it's skids. Pull it out far enough to gain access to the left upper spotlight (that's almost all the way). You DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE any playfield plastics. The original spotlights have their leads wrapped in a black net-like nylon sheath, making it easy to identify leads under the PF. The left upper spotlight is a piece of cake. Clip the necessary ties above & below the PF, unplug Molex connection under PF, remove spotlight with attached female Molex end, and set aside/discard. Now install barrel spotlight, insert male terminal ends into the supplied female Molex end, connect to male Molex end under PF, and replace ties.

The three remaining spotlights are a little more difficult because their leads go under the PF plastics variable distances. Clip necessary ties above & below PF, tease out nylon net sheaths from the bundles of wires under PF, unplug Molex connection under PF, and remove female Molex from the end of the spotlight leads (push out male terminal ends if you have the necessary tool, or clip off Molex connector with wire cuter). The connector has to be removed to pull spotlight leads up through the PF holes & under PF plastics. Before you pull the spotlights out, attach a string to the end of the leads with electrician tape. Pull spotlights out slowly. The attached string is now used to guide the leads of the barrel lights back under the plastics & through the PF holes. Do so slowly. It may take some jiggling. Now insert male terminal ends into the supplied female Molex end, connect to male Molex end under PF, and replace ties.

Hobbit Barrel Spotlights 002 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Barrel Spotlights 001 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Barrel Spotlights 003 (resized).JPG

#2771 3 years ago

The original PF spotlights and the replaced Beatmaster's barrel spotlights are 12v. In above post, I used WHITE 906 LEDs.

#2777 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Thanks for the detailed instructions! I receive a set of my barrels and was about to try to see how I can make them fit without taking away too much of the site lines to the targets. I think your way will lift them up enough for that. Do the lights still shine on the beasts ok? Or is that why you got the different bulbs ... brighter to go farther for the same lighting effect? Most of the light on the beasts comes from under the play field and through the plastic "fix" in front of them anyhow. If I like how the first set works out and look at all the 4 locations, I might buy another set. Great looking accent mod from beatmaster !
I have a prototype Hobbit themed pincup coming soon from modfather too. I will post pics of it on my machine for him when I get it in the next week or two. Watch for that as it "may" add to the barrel accent looks too (TBD).

The two lower barrel spotlights are aimed at the "O" & "C" in the center of the PF. The right upper spotlight is aimed at the upper beasts. With the 12V white 906 LED, the beasts are well illuminated as well as the entire PF. The left upper spotlight is aimed towards Smaug as far as possible. If you aim it @ the upper beasts, you get an irritating glare/bright light at the mod LED itself & on the PF. This is also why the lower spotlights are not aimed directly @ the beasts, but @ the "O" & "C".

With the barrel positions, there is no interference of "site lines to ALL targets".

#2778 3 years ago

Hobbit Figures (Thorin, Bilbo, Grinnah, & Gollum) Installed. Thorin is a 6" collector figure, Bilbo is a 4" collector figure, & Grinnah is a 3.75" action figure sold on Amazon. Gollum was purchased from modfatherpinball.com. I searched everywhere for a good Gollum figure and finally found Modfather's site. They also have quality Thorin & Bilbo figures, but I had already purchased the other figures. The Modfather's Gollum is attached to the PF with a screwed metal tab so it appears suspended over the ball through alley. The other figures are affixed to PF plastics with applied Glue Dots to feet.

Hobbit Figures 004 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Figures 003 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Figures 002 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Figures 001 (resized).JPG

#2784 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Kinda tall for a dwarf!

I agree. My dwarf Thorin is on Hobbit steroids. It measures 5" tall, not 6". Even though it's a beauty, it's too tall. I'm in the process of acquiring a shorter version of similar quality/detail.

1 week later
#2810 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Kinda tall for a dwarf!

Quoted from freddy:

and it blocks the view of the gate, which drops in certain modes

Better sized Dwarf Thorin installed! Purchased from ModFather. The Collector Series of Thorin figures found on Amazon are either too small or too big. ModFather's figure is of perfect size with no obstructive view of the gate & blue target under feet. The figure comes with an attached metal screw tab for anchoring to PF. In reality, it's essentially impossible to use for installation. Use glue dots applied to bottom of feet, insert figure and press down. The figure is of high quality in detail and workmanship, matching that of the Collector Series.

Sm. Thorin 002 (resized).JPG

Sm. Thorin 001 (resized).JPG

#2819 3 years ago

I know this was mentioned before on New Hobbit Mod-Gold Ring Plate thread, but a GOLD/BRONZE plate would be more esthetic on either the LE hobbit or Gold Smaug cross bars. The silver plate looks good & professional, but GOLD, in my opinion, would be more desirable. I have purchased the silver etched mod. Does anybody know of a method (not gold spray paint) of making silver plate gold in color?

#2841 3 years ago

A precautionary note for installation of Cliffy's Hobbit Kickout Protectors: Don't OVER TIGHTEN, ESP. THE RADAGAST PROTECTOR!

Here's what happened to me: I installed the protectors & stopped tightening when I met firm resistance. Everything looked fine with no issues. After about 2 weeks, I reviewed several earlier posts on this thread that recommended for new Hobbit owners to raise PF & tighten all nuts, just in case they came loose with shipment. That's what I did. I then lowered the PF & noticed that the Radagast kickout protector had bowed upward from the PF!

The PF is not flat where the black posts of the VUK are anchored. There is a circular depression from the nuts of the posts. As a result, the metal protector will be depressed/deformed around the post holes with over tightening, causing the protector to bow upwards.

Solution: Buy a new Radagast Kickout Protector from Cliff ( approx. $23) & install without OVER TIGHTENING!
OR: Salvage protector using tack hammer to flattened protector around post holes, then reinstall without over tightening. I also placed a washer between the protector & posts.

s

4 weeks later
#2956 3 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Put extra lighting with Red in back and red by flippers back when I first got it and love it! But then again I'm addicted to modding lol

Your start button is red, not yellow. What did you change? Did you just change to a red LED? Is the LED 5v or 12v?

#2978 3 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

It's really easy and inexpensive to add a figure to your empty barrel. Just pick up a 3 3/4" Dwarf figure off EBay and take a large sharp butcher knife and severe him at the chest. Dwalin works really well because he has his tool belt that works great for a small screw to hold him in the barrel don't try glueing or epoxy as its not good enough long term to hold the figure in the jumping barrel.

I assume one has to remove the barrel top to affix the half figure. If so, do you just have to remove the two black front screws? Is it easy to screw the barrel top back on?

#2983 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I assume one has to remove the barrel top to affix the half figure. If so, do you just have to remove the two black front screws? Is it easy to screw the barrel top back on?

If you are going to add an action figure to the top of the right barrel, you have to move the book out of the way. The barrel tops can not be removed by just unscrewing the 2 anterior black screws. If you are just adding figure to right barrel top , remove the two metal bracket screws & move book up & to the left. If you are also going to replace the Thorin figure on the left barrel top, detach the main book cable (large blue thumb screw connector) and move book to the right to rest on the cabinet edge (Photo 3).

You have 5 action figures to choose from: Balin, Thorin, Kili, Fili, & Dwalin. They are 3" to 4" figures & can be purchased on eBay or Amazon for about $5 to $10.

Use a new box cutter blade. Place figure face down on a block of wood. Position blade perpendicular to figure, above midline, & hit blade with hammer to produce a clean, smooth transection (Photo 1). Glue figure to right barrel top (Photos 2 & 3 with Fili installed). I used LOCTITE supper glue professional liquid. So far, with multiple game plays, the figure has not popped off.

Now you're in a conundrum: The installed right barrel figure is far superior in looks, appropriate size & quality, compared to the Thorin figure on the left barrel top that came with the game. I decided to replace it!!

I used a variable speed Dremel tool to remove the original Thorin figure (Photo 4). Use a metal shaving bit to remove approx. 3/4 of the figure & a grinding stone bit to remove the remainder (Photo 5). I recommend a slow RPM (15,000). It's messy with shavings and dust. I placed a plastic apron around barrel to catch most the debris & vacuumed often. You must hold barrel firmly down with one hand & steady the other hand with Dremel toll using the back board of the PF. That damn tool wants to skip with potential marring of the barrel rim. Go slow & steady! When finished, touch up barrel top with black paint (Photo 6). I use ivory black oil paint. It was the only paint I had on hand. It's excellent for touch up but it took 48 hrs. to dry.

Now pick the figure you want & install with super glue (Photo 7: Thorin or Photo 8 Kili).

Hobbit Barrel Figures 001 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Barrel Figures 002 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Barrel Figures 003 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Barrel Figures 004 (resized).JPG

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Hobbit Barrel Figures 007 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Barrel Figures 008 (resized).JPG

#2984 3 years ago

Hobbit action figures installed, final product! The last photo shows brushed aluminum flipper bats installed, replacing the yellow JJP's. They were purchased from Pinball Life. I had to decide between gold vs. brushed aluminum. I have had trouble with the paint on the gold variety chipping off. I think the aluminum correlates well with the brushed aluminum ring button @ the front & the metal ramp @ the back. They are entirely metal & weigh slightly more than the plastic bats. With the increased weight, I think they are more responsive/"better feel". I have my Hobbit canted @ 6.9 degrees. With plastic bats, I needed to set the flipper strength @ 24. With the metal bats, I can lower the flipper strength back to 22.

Hobbit final 001 (resized).JPG

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#2985 3 years ago

Addendum: I put Kili on the left barrel top (replacing Thorin that came with the game) since I have the Thorin figure in the horseshoe ramp. Two Thorins, side-by-side, just doesn't look esthetic. If you don't put a Thorin fig. @ the ramp, a Thorin on top of the left barrel looks really dramatic. What's neat about the figures is you can turn their heads towards the PF.

#2991 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Docdeath could you show a full playfield shot? I like everything but the golbin figure, i think that would look better with a barrel top and another dwarf on it.

Here's an attempt @ a full PF shot.

Hobbit 2 002 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#3279 3 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

I picked up one of the Hobbit manuals. Was a little reluctant for $100 but will admit the manual is done VERY nice and has a deluge of info in it! It's not just limited to the typical manual stuff (Adjustments, Settings, Technical etc.) but also a lot of pictures/stories on the making of the game. Steps through the different white-woods, artwork, features etc.! VERY nice manual and worth the money (imo)!
Thanks Lloyd for posting that it was now available as I wasn't aware!!!</bloquote>

I know the manual is listed on the parts site. Question: With $100 purchase, do you download it from that site, or do they send a printed manual in the mail?

#3280 3 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

I picked up one of the Hobbit manuals. Was a little reluctant for $100 but will admit the manual is done VERY nice and has a deluge of info in it! It's not just limited to the typical manual stuff (Adjustments, Settings, Technical etc.) but also a lot of pictures/stories on the making of the game. Steps through the different white-woods, artwork, features etc.! VERY nice manual and worth the money (imo)!
Thanks Lloyd for posting that it was now available as I wasn't aware!!!

Is manual downloaded from the parts site, or do they send out a printed manual?

#3290 3 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Printed on a cardstock like material. Very nicely done! 400+ pages with 72 pages of "extra" stuff (making of The Hobbit) that you don't get from downloading online! Spiral bound!

Thanks for info. Just purchased it!

3 weeks later
#3414 3 years ago

I still have a recurring problem with my Goblin Pop-up. I've previously posted it on this thread (p. 55), but the problem persists. After several hits, the Goblin head stops popping up. The LED lights up, but the steel flap only moves upward above the PF surface about 1/16". I then stop game play & manually pop him up & twist head slightly. It then pops up for only a few additional hits & then quits working.

With the PF raised on skids and manual movement, there is absolutely no obstruction or impingement of the mechanism. It moves freely without hitting the PF wood edge. The Goblin head does not hit the plastic insert. I even removed the insert to make sure.

With the PF down & in the test mode, the Goblin steel flap only moves upwards 1/16"' to 1/8" above the PF surface, even after twisting the head ever so slightly. The other Pop-ups (Orc, Warg & Spider) work fine. In their test modes, the the steel flaps move about 1/2" above the PF & their mechanisms make a loader noise.

With the PF raised against the back box & in the test mode, the Goblin mechanism slides up to the steel flap & stops. With the other pop-ups, their mechanisms slide up to & hit the steel flaps and, as stated previously, make a loader noise. It's as if the Goblin coil is not strong enough/defective.

Any thoughts? I really think it might be a defective coil/sleeve. I really don't know why the slight head twist allows the mechanism to work a couple of times, since there is absolutely no obstruction or impingement to movement.

I emailed Victor 3+ wks. ago and he has yet to respond.

If it is the coil, how do you switch it out for a new one? I ordered a coil from the Hobbit Parts Store for $35 plus $28 two-day shipping. To switch coils, I assume you have to remove the two flap compression springs, lift off the steel flap, unplug the respective Molex connectors, & unscrew the 4 anchoring screws of the mechanism & pull entire mechanism out.

Thanks for any replies.

#3447 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I doubt it.

And then tear it all apart to switch coils. Getting it all back together and having it move freely is a huge time and aggravation ordeal. If it were me, I'd pull it out. Loosen, tweak, retighten, etc. etc. until it moves up and down freely.
I took one apart to make some pictures. And I marked where things lined up and screws went. And still wish I hadn't done that. I spent an hour tweaking things back to normal. I've included what torn apart looks like.
LTG : )

Quoted from ulmpharmd:

check the wiring...I had the same problem and messed with the plug and it started working..

The Goblin mechanism is now working correctly. It was not the coil (thank goodness!). With the PF raised up against the back box, I noticed that if I manually moved the pop-up guide shaft forward about 1/2" and then test fired, the mechanism worked normally like the others. The guide shaft slides through a centering bracket. The hole in the bracket is surrounded by a short blue synthetic sleeve. Even though the shaft moved through the sleeve with absolutely no resistance, I added a micro drop of high grade/premium machine oil. As an after thought, I also disconnected & then reconnected the coil plug. I then tested the mode & it worked fine. So either the lubrication did the trick, or there was a poor connection at the plug.

I don't like using oil but I didn't have any graphite. With pinball play & the eventual production of the "dreaded black dust", the centering bracket aperture may get "gummed up". I'll have to wait & see.

5 months later
#4074 2 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Sorry, no video but you could be the one to make one. I pay $20.00 for any video I don't have of my kits in action.
My backpanel illumination mod is a strip of leds that illuminates the back of the play field. It comes with an inline rremote to select colors, brightness, or modes, I also make a version that uses a smartphone app to control colors.
Chris
http://www.rockcustompinball.com
» YouTube video

Chris,
What,s the difference between the regular/standard interactive undercab lighting for the Hobbit vs. the deluxe model (besides the coat)? Are the interactive colors just three (RGB)?

2 weeks later
#4109 2 years ago

Has anyone purchased & installed Rock Custom's interactive under cabinet lighting? Is it easy to install? Any reviews?

#4121 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I have one on the way for WOZ. In a month or two, I'll get the TH version.

Did you purchase it from Rock Custom Pinball or Mezel Mods? Did you get the deluxe version? I interfaced with Chris & he said that even though there is a deluxe version listed on his Rock Custom website, there isn't one for the Hobbit.

1 month later
#4264 2 years ago
Quoted from Ranhorton:

I really dig the barrel beer holder! Also, do the mini barrels mount over (or attach onto) the existing playfiled spotlights? If so, that’s awesome!

Review page 56 of this thread.

#4270 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Added this precious ring today. Thought it looked great. Was only about $12 on eBay. Fits the overall quality of the machine. Love this game.

Photo of alternative site for Hobbit ring display (sorry for duplicate photo).

hobbit ring 1 001 (resized).JPG

hobbit ring 1 001 (resized).JPG

#4278 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

That looks good too. How's it held on? I positioned mine above the precious outlane on top of the ring image on play field. Your spot is definitely more predominantly shown though. Nice.

Use a 3mm diameter wood dowel, 3 & 3/8" in length. If desired, stain brown to match color of book cover. Affix three spaced 5mm glue dots to dowel. Mount/stick dowel to backside of book cover behind glass plate on the left, with approximately 3/8" of dowel protruding above book cover. That leaves plenty of space between top of dowel & PF glass. If you try to mount it on the right side of the book cover, there's not enough space. My ring size is 6. With game play, ring is stable & does not come off dowel.

Note: I use glue dots to mount the majority of my pinball mods. It's not as messy as crazy glue (or other types of adhesives) & it doesn't have to be permanent.

hobbit ring 1 001 (resized).JPG

#4280 2 years ago

Not a fan of the Hobbit sticker (?Erebor Graphic) between the upper back box speakers. Replaced it with a 3" square Gollum sticker (photos 2 & 3). It's not too flashy & it correlates well with the front of the cabinet. Original sticker easy to remove after gentle heating with hair dryer. Use alcohol or lighter fluid to clean/remove any adhesive residue.

If interested, go to zazzle.com. Type "hobbit stickers" in search. There are 305 choices (three examples in photo 1). You can order matte or gloss & customize the background color. They have multiple shapes & sizes. The central space between the speakers is 8 X 3 inches, so the 3" square or the 4.5 X 2.7" rectangle is a perfect fit. Rectangles are a sheet of four; squares are a sheet of 6. You can also search for "hobbit magnets". There are 327 choices. Unfortunately, they only offer squares & circles. The squares are too small. They do offer a 3" diameter circle size.

003 (resized).JPG

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001 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#4323 2 years ago

I'm contemplating switching out the red smaug with the gold edition. How hard is it to remove & replace? Do you just have to raise the PF, detach leads & remove any anchoring screws, etc.?

Has anyone removed & sent their smaug to Back Alley Creations for their "Smaug Gold Paint Job"? If so, did they do a compulsive, pristine job?

1 week later
#4362 2 years ago

Photos of installed 3.75" series Hobbit action figs. PF now ready for the "Battle of the Five Armies." All figs. except for Tauriel are mounted at or near their corresponding representations on the PF. All figs. except for Balin are anchored to the PF plastics with glue dots on their feet. Balin is mounted with a zip tie of his left leg to the post of the barrel spotlight. All figs. are positioned in relatively safe spots, out of the way of the occasional air ball. With 20+ plays, all figs. are still intact, free of damage or disruption.

Some Hobbit owners will say this if "March Madness." The PF is too cluttered/busy. However, "beauty is in the eye of the beholder." In my case, "beauty is in the eye of my spouse." With my LE Hobbit costing $8500, in addition to $1000+ cost of added mods, if the spouse says "add the figures," you add the figs.

Hobbit Figs. 001 (resized).JPG

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#4364 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Finished adding some mods and completed the ramp flap upgrade on my Hobbit this week. I added the Lermods back panel gold lightning, florescent green plastic protectors for lower plastics, and the laser engraved ring button plate with gold colored ring button. I added some green Perfect Play flipper bands and post rubbers when I got the game.
The metal ring button plate isn't cheap but looks very nice. It would be sweet to get something similar to replace the green sticker between the speakers.

See post #4280, page 86 in this thread.

1 month later
#4541 2 years ago

Pinballpro.com is now promoting Pinhedz Wax,Cleaner & Maintenance Products made specifically for new generation pinball machines. Are any Hobbit owners familiar/used said products?

3 months later
#5106 2 years ago

What's the difference between 2.95 & 2.96? I have 2.95. Would one recommend up grading to 2.96, or just wait for 3.00?

8 months later
#6764 1 year ago

Radagast fig. with lighted staff crystal.

RADAGAST FIG. 002 (resized).JPG
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