(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

7 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (7 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (7 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (7 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (7 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (7 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (7 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (7 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (7 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1315 7 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Just added the trifecta! Lol loving the hobbit!

Nice Photos. I see you have the lighted leg protectors and lighted shooter rod housing. I assume they are 12v. I already have the items. How did you power them? Did you use the 12v lead from the coin door, or do use an independent 12v power supply. Also, it looks like you have under cab/rear back box lightening. What did you use and where did you purchase them? Are they on constantly, or do they flash with game play?

Thanks, Frank

#1322 7 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Used a separate power supply! Not sure where LED's are from as my business bought a bunch a long time ago for a job...on constant but I had my F-14 Tomcat doing the flashing thing that worked off different targets in the machine but got a little annoying....whole led strip on bottom and one on back for full glow partial led strips in back of play field top and at apron on flipper area!

Thanks for the info! Additional question: Did you purchase the lighted shoot rod housings from Beetmaster? His are made for Stern machines. Can they be installed in JJP's machines? Are the housings similar?

#1337 7 years ago

Thanks again for the response. One more question: You have a sub woofer on your hobbit. Did you use pinnovators.com for hook up or did you run speaker wires directly from the sub to the + and - terminals in the cabinet sub using alligator clips?

#1406 7 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Bought these from Amazon for $5, comes with 2x of them
http://amzn.to/23fgpzX
1) You can see a splitter plug in the top RCA output on the computer case (this is where the factory sub normally plugs in)
2) Plug the factory sub in one end
3) Plug the other splitter in the other end
4) Plug a RCA -> 3.5mm cable into the other splitter and run it to your sub. This is one I recommend:
http://amzn.to/24V07LM

TH will be shipped to me in Sept. I want to install a sub woofer. On your posts, it seems that + and - connections are of no concern. With your suggested splitters (2) and master output cable (1) from Amazon, plus your photos, you just plug and connect as photographed and every thing is fine. Is that correct?

Also, does TH have a plate were the WOZ had one for the AUX out? If so, one could remove this plate to gain cable access to inside the cabinet.

3 months later
#2394 7 years ago
Quoted from madscientist101:

I am still waiting for my Smaug LE that I ordered well over a year ago. I will never order direct from JJ again as I could of got one from a distributor that has them in stock a while ago. And I hear they are making the black arrows now FBS! JJ should fulfill customers orders that have paid in full. When I emailed them I didn't even get a solid answer to when I will receive my game. "Just the game will be on the next list submitted to production" "I will let you know when your game is closer to shipping" Nice just keep using my money to develop lame games like dialed in that makes me cringe. Regardless to how well it plays the art looks terrible and would devalue my lineup on its sheer presence.

I ordered my LE Hobbit 3 years ago direct from JJ (ordered 12/3013) and still have not received it. Is anybody else still waiting after 3 years? Is Jen still on maternity leave? Katie does not have the best communication skills. In July, Jen emailed me that my game was about to be submitted for production and then she went on maternity leave. Then in September, after inquiry, Katie said: We're had a bit of delay waiting on toys from our vender. We're expecting them next week. We will do our best to get your game out to you as soon as we possibly can." Since then, no response!

-2
#2400 7 years ago

There were the same problems (delay in production) with the Wizard of Oz. JJ's Pinball did not evolve or learn from their mistakes. They are still delayed in production/assembly with poor communication. Also, from the above posts, I'm worried about their quality control.

#2402 7 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

There were the same problems (delay in production) with the Wizard of Oz. JJ's Pinball did not evolve or learn from their mistakes. They are still delayed in production/assembly with poor communication. Also, from the above posts, I'm worried about their quality control.

I've been pleasantly informed that many of the above problems are a result of delivery trauma/vibration during shipment, not quality control issues of recently produced games.

#2404 7 years ago

Is Jen back @ Jersey Jack's from maternity leave? From above recent posts, it sounded like she was, yet when I just emailed her, I got the same automated reply: ...out for maternity leave...contact Katie, etc.

1 week later
#2454 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I like the upper sling to be able to bounce up through the lanes a bit to play the bounce/lane change game for bonuses.
I have it just right for me as it doesnt stay up there too long, just long enough to get a bonus multiplier once in awhile.
WOZ comes with black rubber through-out but has white for the upper sling.
I might just re-do it all and go with all white on my WOZ as others have done. It looks nice but gets dirty fast.
Changing it to a black rubber on the upper sling is a little less bouncy but lasts a lot longer.
I do like the bouncy feel of white rubber, its amazing on my TH and ToM.

Why not use transparent rubber rings throughout the PF. I replaced all black/white rubber rings on my Avengers LE Hulk and Tron Pro over a year ago and have no problems. Purchase from Terry at Pinballlife.

Which is best: black/white/transparent rubber rings?

#2455 7 years ago

Those are plastic flipper bats, probably white, with gold paint. With time, the paint may chip off! It happen to me! A purest would order metallic bats (stainless steel) and have them powder coated.

#2460 7 years ago

Where did you purchase the GOLD flipper bats. I have purchased 2 Gold sets, one from pinballlife and one from Pinball Center in Germany. Both sets were white plastic bats painted gold. The gold paint has started to flake off in both sets!

Thanks

#2508 7 years ago

Just received my LE Hobbit. It was ordered 12/2013. I got it with Rad-cals. Upon receipt, a large tear/hole of the cardboard shipping box was noticed on the upper right side. With flashlight inspection, there appears to be no gross trauma (scratches/gouges, etc.) to the cabinet. However, there is a semi-translucent membrane partially detached from around the flipper button. It will peal off easily. Is it a protective cabinet shipment membrane, or is it a damaged Rad-cal? I have not yet unboxed the machine.

#2510 7 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

It's just the protective coating, it's meant to be peeled off

Thank you, thank you, thank you for your immediate response! You made my day. Now all I have to do is get the boxed machine from my garage to my basement game room.

#2511 7 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Laseriffic makes non-interactive toppers (the only Hobbit one so far that I know of)
beatmaster makes barrel spot lights, shooter rod housing lights (I bought yellow)
mustangpaul makes leg light up kits (I will eventually buy yellow)
a few people make plastic protectors
Amazon sells some small Hobbit keys, swords, & other things that a few people have added - I'll add those soon
Not much other than that ... I wish there was more too.

You can do flipper button LEDs, under cabinet lighting, subwoofer, external volume control from Pinnovators, etc.

1 week later
#2563 7 years ago

HELP NEEDED! I finally received my LE Hobbit (production date of 10/21). When I turn it on, no PF lights come on. The LCD screen, the PF book, the 4 spotlights, and the Start Button work. Also, the Smaug head turns. The machine also does not recognize that no balls are present (I had not added the 5 balls; I just wanted to see the PF lit; I was going to install the Cliffy's protectors first). On inspection, there are 3 Molex units not connected towards the back & bottom of the cabinet (see photo): one female with 2 blue wires, one male with 1 black & 1 yellow wires, and one male with 2 white, 1 green, 2 black wires (it's multi wire harness is relatively long compared to the other two).

I'm sure theses should be connected somewhere. Any advice is well appreciated.

TH 001 (resized).JPGTH 001 (resized).JPG

#2566 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The yellow wire and black wire one isn't used. The other two are. Dig around the rear on the metal box with the boards, under it, and sides, to find the other ends to plug them into.
LTG : )

There are no wires going under the metal box. There are no wires coming out from under the box. I checked all sides and could not see or feel any. I really don't want to lift the metal box! If the sought after connectors are under the box, where are the respective supplying wires coming from? They surely wouldn't be arising through the metal bottom of the box?

#2568 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Under the playfield between the character pop ups, find the board in this picture. Plug the USB cable back in - you'll have playfield lights.
LTG : )

It worked!!! Thank you, thank you! This is why I'm happy to donate money to Pinside!

Can I ignore the unconnected Molex units as previously described? You said the yellow/black wire one isn't used. What about the other 2?

#2575 7 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I agree. Most likely every machine if the wires are held by the same method.
In looking at my mech's again while I was doing the flap fix I noticed that every single one of them had a degree of cuts through the wire insulation (red box in the pic below).

I had actually stopped it from occurring accidentally some time ago by using a metal washer to stop the mech from becoming jammed due to the other beast fix.
By adding the washer it actually makes a gap into which the wire has somewhere to safely sit.
Pic below has the mech in the fully up position (green box) showing how the washer creates the gap (red box).

What size washer did you use. Thanks

#2576 7 years ago

My later production Hobbit (10/21) came with the "beast fix" installed: clear plastic inserts, 3/16'" thick. I assume I have to add the "washer fix" to prevent amputation of the green & white wires. Is my assumption correct? What size washer is best, diameter & thickness?

It looks like it is quite difficult to install each of the 4 washers!

#2580 7 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I can't speak for you specifically as the beast fix plastic may have changed now but see if the wires can get scissored between the plastic and the metal guide.
You only need a single washer. 4 total for the entire machine. Install it on the screw on which it has the curved metal slide.
Super easy and takes only a few seconds without having to remove anything else.

Thanks for your patience and response. I found your previous posts (page 46 in this Hobbit thread). I checked and the wires don't get crimped between the plastic insert & metal guide. Thanks again.

#2588 7 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Anybody know of any decal kits for the standup targets? The set i put on WOZ really made game look finished and Hobbit has the same unfinished look with the standups all over the place.

I'm sure you're talking about the yellow targets, the three sets of three? It really is an "unfinished look". I used the three brown target decals for the Tron Pro Recognizer target bank. I had two extra sets (3/set). I went to pinballlife to purchase the third. However, your have to purchase the Tron Decal Set (approx. $14 to $15), even through you are going to use just the three brown target decals. That's one solution, but quite expensive (approx. $45) to get a total of 9 target decals! I will add, though, they really look great.

#2589 7 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I'm sure you're talking about the yellow targets, the three sets of three? It really is an "unfinished look". I used the three brown target decals for the Tron Pro Recognizer target bank. I had two extra sets (3/set). I went to pinballlife to purchase the third. However, your have to purchase the Tron Decal Set (approx. $14 to $15), even through you are going to use just the three brown target decals. That's one solution, but quite expensive (approx. $45) to get a total of 9 target decals! I will add, though, they really look great.

Note before & after photos. The TRON Pro/TRON LE High Wear Decal Set from Pinball Life is $9.95. You only use the 3 Recognizer target decals/set, so you have to order 3 sets. Shipping is approx. $8 to $9. The decals are of high quality & easy to install & easy to remove & reinstall if you make a mistake with alignment. There're black with a light brown/tan peripheral line.

I also added 81/2" mylar arch cover strips to protect the apron along the ball drain alley. I purchased them from Marco Specialties.

target decal 001 (resized).JPGtarget decal 001 (resized).JPG

target decal 002 (resized).JPGtarget decal 002 (resized).JPG

#2599 7 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Where did you get these from? Do they scratch? I need to find something to cover the gouges in my black.. stuff =/

I can't remember if their from tilt graphics, pin graffix or on eBay. They are of high quality & resistant to scratch, but they will if PF lifted carelessly. At the time of purchase, there were only two choices. The set I got, as pictured in previous post, and a set that were light tan and fit the theme of the apron decal.

When I received the graphics, they did not fit the contour of the backside of the cabinet. There was also no hole for the back box hinge nut/cap. Luckily, I had a set of Hobbit mirror blades. I used them as a template to cut the back ends of the graphics and make a hole for the hinge nut/cap. The hole is 5/8" diameter.

Presently, I like my graphics better than the regular mirror blades. I'll live with them awhile, but I did order a set of mirrored black blades. They might be really dramatic!

To protect the black cabinet sides, mirror blades if installed, or the decal graphics when raising the PF, I insert & tape sheets of paper between the cabinet sides and the PF, then raise the PF. It's a pain in the butt, but it's worth the protection!

#2602 7 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Your words speak of wisdom I've yet to even have a taste of. I won't rag on the JJP folks for having me lift the PF so much, it's a learning experience I guess...?
Mind if I ask where the mirror black blades came from? In my head they look sick as F@#&! The ones you had in the picture sure 'nuff were from tilt folks. I like them better than the gauged stock black stuff I have now but the faces on those decals don't do it for me.

I purchased the mirrored black side mirrors from Pinball Decals: http://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html. On this site, they are the WMS blades which fit JJP's machines. They are expensive (approx. $220 with shipping). I asked Joey if the hole for the back box rear hinge nut/cap is 5/8". He measured it and said it's between 9/16" & 5/8". That should be large enough. If too tight, use a round file or a Dremal tool with a grinding stone to slightly enlarge the hole (keep protective film on). Hole enlargement, if necessary, doesn't need to be perfect because the nut/cap has a flange to hide any irregular enlargement. You do need some play (between 1 to 2mm) to be able to position the blades in perfect alignment with the top edge of the cabinet sides.

#2605 7 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I can't remember if their from tilt graphics, pin graffix or on eBay. They are of high quality & resistant to scratch, but they will if PF lifted carelessly. At the time of purchase, there were only two choices. The set I got, as pictured in previous post, and a set that were light tan and fit the theme of the apron decal.
When I received the graphics, they did not fit the contour of the backside of the cabinet. There was also no hole for the back box hinge nut/cap. Luckily, I had a set of Hobbit mirror blades. I used them as a template to cut the back ends of the graphics and make a hole for the hinge nut/cap. The hole is 5/8" diameter.
Presently, I like my graphics better than the regular mirror blades. I'll live with them awhile, but I did order a set of mirrored black blades. They might be really dramatic!
To protect the black cabinet sides, mirror blades if installed, or the decal graphics when raising the PF, I insert & tape sheets of paper between the cabinet sides and the PF, then raise the PF. It's a pain in the butt, but it's worth the protection!

Photo of paper sheet protection of cabinet side wall, mirror blades, or decal with PF raising.

Hobbit Cab & PF protection 001 (resized).JPGHobbit Cab & PF protection 001 (resized).JPG

#2607 7 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I'm holding out for the PowerBladez for TH from PinGraffix. Take a look at what they did for the MET Creeping Death version. Everyone lobby PinGraffix to work on the TH version next in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poll-which-powerbladez-would-you-like-to-see-pingraffix
The more votes in our favor the better!

Holy cow. I didn't know such PowerBladez cabinet sides were in existence. I went to the thread a voted for the Hobbit. What is the cost? Maybe I should have waited on purchasing the mirrored black side mirrors!!!

#2609 7 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

That's why they have that "poll" thread - to see what the interest is for which theme to take on next. They have matching speaker grills too. I think the animated PowerBladez were $299. I hope they do a TH version soon. I'm holding out for it. They said one for ACDC is about to be released. I'll likely get that one too.
Vote, vote, vote!
Now we just need an animated AND interactive topper for TH!

Photo of my Hobbit topper to be installed. I'll try to make it interactive with LED spotlighting.

smaug 001 (resized).JPGsmaug 001 (resized).JPG

#2612 7 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I bought the Weta Smaug Bust from Black Friday deals as well to put in as a topper We are trying to figure out today how to install it - what is your plan, how to put it in its place?

I will use Velcro strips on the bottom of the bust!

#2613 7 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I will use Velcro strips on the bottom of the bust!

You can also use double-sided mounting tape such as Scotch Clear 3M tape. It holds 10# in a vertical position (of course the bust is mounted flat). The potential problem here is if you ever have to remove the bust from the top of the back box. It would be quite difficult! That's why I think Velcro is the best solution.

#2615 7 years ago

Lloyd the Great, help: When I go into the test mode to test various coils, it says push the start button to test. When I do that, nothing happens! Thanks

#2617 7 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Lloyd the Great, help: When I go into the test mode to test various coils, it says push the start button to test. When I do that, nothing happens! Thanks

How stupid/naïve am I!!! You have to close the coin door to test!!!!!

#2618 7 years ago

I have another problem I can't for the life of me figure out. With game play, the right flipper migrates upward. If it was loose, it would migrate downward. The flipper bat rod is anchored really tight. I can't screw it tighter.

#2622 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Or pull out the high power interlock switch. Top white switch on left side of coin door opening.

You might have a defective pawl that can't be tightened. It isn't holding the flipper shaft tight enough. Give it all you got.
LTG : )

I checked the coil stop & sleeve per above post. Everything is OK. This is a new game with only 10 plays, so I was sure that was not the problem. I invited my 300 pound neighbor over to tighten the pawl, and sure enough, with his strength, the flipper bat is now tight & secure without upward/downward movement with play. Thanks, LTG

1 week later
#2653 7 years ago

POTENTIAL HELP NEEDED (attn. LTG & Others): I have approx. 30 game plays on my LE Hobbit. Today I played 2 games without any problems. In the middle of the 3rd game, both LCD screens (back box & Book) went black. I finished the game without screens functioning and blindly initialed the game. I started another game, both screens still dark, quickly finished the game & turn the pinball Off. After approx. 5 min., I turn the game on & everything was fine. Both screens worked. I played 4 more games without problem. Question: Is there a potential problem brewing? Maybe I have a semi-loose connection? Any suggestions? Should I keep playing till the problem arises again, or should I check something now? If "something now", what?

#2655 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

That would be my first thought.
LTG : )

When I turn on the game, there is a double static/power surge (?), a "snap-snap" over the sound system, not immediately but when the LCD screens come on. Is this normal? This has always bin the case, from my first game play to present. On some of my other machines, there is also a single power surge (?) snap when I turn them on, but it is immediate.

#2670 7 years ago

Quick Question: Aren't the four PF spotlights 12V?

1 week later
#2740 7 years ago

Last night played multiple games with no issues and have had no issues with the goblin pop up since getting the game. All of a sudden goblin pop up will try and pop up when the goblin switch is activated but doesn't pop all the way up and stay up. Investigated multiple things; manually pushing goblin up, it will slide up and down with no restrictions. The wires are free and not catching. Tried to fire the coil in coil test mode and it fires but doesn't pop up as far as the other pop ups do. If I slightly push up manually on the goblin(less then an 8th of an inch) it will pop up when firing the coil in test mode. Again, moving the goblin up manually there is no restrictions. Playfield was put down and played a game and it worked for about six pop ups and then went back to it wanting to pop up but doesn't stay up (you can here the coil fire and it moves up about a 1/4th of an inch then falls back down). I tried putting in a couple of washers to pitch the mechanism, sliding the mechanism to the left as the top right corner of the goblin appears to have a corner that could possible be hitting the side of the playfield but visibly inspecting the mechanism(sliding it up and down) the movement looks like it is not catching any where and it moves freely. Now when the game is played and goblin switch is activated it will try and pop up once(moves about a 1/4th of an inch falls down) then pops up and stays up. It has symptoms of the mechanism binding or catching but manually sliding it up and down it is not catching or binding. Wondering what I should try next?

Also; In coil test number 7, what is this the "coil hold"? It does nothing when activated. All other pop ups are the same, you can fire the individual coil then the next test below is "coil hold" and it doesn't do anything...

#2744 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check if the character face is too sensitive and triggering a hit on the way up.

Try holding the thing up and then press hold and see if it holds. That is how flippers usually work.
LTG : )

Quoted from freddy:

do you have the pop up plastic fix kit? if so i had similar issues and i had to file / chamfer the edges of the plastics as the goblin, orc and spider hit them. especially the goblins "eye bump". you will find when play field is up everything slides nice but in play field down position the faces rub and hang up. GL hope this helps.

LTG and Freddy thank you for the speedy replies. I have inspected the goblin face and the plastic fix. I believe the sensitivity of the leaf switch on the face was to close and pulling it back a bit has fixed the issue. Have played multiple games and no issues! Its time to open bottle of wine!!!

#2762 7 years ago

Smaug Bust Topper finally mounted! The small color changing LED spotlight on the right has red, green, blue, white, orange, yellow, cyan, & purple programmable colors with flash, jump, fade, speed, & brightness settings. Behind Gollum, I mounted a Beatmaster"s barrel spotlight with an orange 906 LED to illuminate the left & under sides of Smaug. The photos don't do it justice.

Smaug bust with LED 002 (resized).JPGSmaug bust with LED 002 (resized).JPG

Smaug bust with LED 001 (resized).JPGSmaug bust with LED 001 (resized).JPG

#2763 7 years ago

Additional photo with Gollum removed.

Smaug minus Gollum 001 (resized).JPGSmaug minus Gollum 001 (resized).JPG

#2769 7 years ago

BEATMASTER'S BARREL SPOTLIGHTS INSTALLED!

Bob's mods are professionally made and assembled. The barrel spotlights are plug & play (just the same as the four black PF spotlights) with 2-pin female Molex connectors included, without the crimp type male terminals inserted. They really add to the theme of the PF. They cost approx. $50 per set (2 barrels/set) + shipping, so you need to order 2 sets (total of 4). When you order, tell Bob that they are for the Hobbit: He makes the wire leads the correct length to reach the male Molex connector ends under the PF.

You will also need to purchase 1/4" hex post spacers, m-f, 8-32 thread, to elevate the barrels above the wire form runways: 1" length for left lower spotlight, 1" length for right lower spotlight, & 2" length for right upper spotlight (here, I combined two 1" length spacers because I had them on hand). Marco Specialties have the spacers in stalk. The base posts to which you add the spacers are 3/16" hex. I used the 1/4" spacer on top because I think it looks better. Besides, the base post of the right upper spotlight in my machine is 1/4". After the photos were taken, I added an 1/2" spacer to the left upper spotlight. There is a better fit of the barrel next to the wire cage.

INSTALLATION NOTES: You only need to raise the PF up on it's skids. Pull it out far enough to gain access to the left upper spotlight (that's almost all the way). You DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE any playfield plastics. The original spotlights have their leads wrapped in a black net-like nylon sheath, making it easy to identify leads under the PF. The left upper spotlight is a piece of cake. Clip the necessary ties above & below the PF, unplug Molex connection under PF, remove spotlight with attached female Molex end, and set aside/discard. Now install barrel spotlight, insert male terminal ends into the supplied female Molex end, connect to male Molex end under PF, and replace ties.

The three remaining spotlights are a little more difficult because their leads go under the PF plastics variable distances. Clip necessary ties above & below PF, tease out nylon net sheaths from the bundles of wires under PF, unplug Molex connection under PF, and remove female Molex from the end of the spotlight leads (push out male terminal ends if you have the necessary tool, or clip off Molex connector with wire cuter). The connector has to be removed to pull spotlight leads up through the PF holes & under PF plastics. Before you pull the spotlights out, attach a string to the end of the leads with electrician tape. Pull spotlights out slowly. The attached string is now used to guide the leads of the barrel lights back under the plastics & through the PF holes. Do so slowly. It may take some jiggling. Now insert male terminal ends into the supplied female Molex end, connect to male Molex end under PF, and replace ties.

Hobbit Barrel Spotlights 002 (resized).JPGHobbit Barrel Spotlights 002 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Barrel Spotlights 001 (resized).JPGHobbit Barrel Spotlights 001 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Barrel Spotlights 003 (resized).JPGHobbit Barrel Spotlights 003 (resized).JPG

#2771 7 years ago

The original PF spotlights and the replaced Beatmaster's barrel spotlights are 12v. In above post, I used WHITE 906 LEDs.

#2777 7 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Thanks for the detailed instructions! I receive a set of my barrels and was about to try to see how I can make them fit without taking away too much of the site lines to the targets. I think your way will lift them up enough for that. Do the lights still shine on the beasts ok? Or is that why you got the different bulbs ... brighter to go farther for the same lighting effect? Most of the light on the beasts comes from under the play field and through the plastic "fix" in front of them anyhow. If I like how the first set works out and look at all the 4 locations, I might buy another set. Great looking accent mod from beatmaster !
I have a prototype Hobbit themed pincup coming soon from modfather too. I will post pics of it on my machine for him when I get it in the next week or two. Watch for that as it "may" add to the barrel accent looks too (TBD).

The two lower barrel spotlights are aimed at the "O" & "C" in the center of the PF. The right upper spotlight is aimed at the upper beasts. With the 12V white 906 LED, the beasts are well illuminated as well as the entire PF. The left upper spotlight is aimed towards Smaug as far as possible. If you aim it @ the upper beasts, you get an irritating glare/bright light at the mod LED itself & on the PF. This is also why the lower spotlights are not aimed directly @ the beasts, but @ the "O" & "C".

With the barrel positions, there is no interference of "site lines to ALL targets".

#2778 7 years ago

Hobbit Figures (Thorin, Bilbo, Grinnah, & Gollum) Installed. Thorin is a 6" collector figure, Bilbo is a 4" collector figure, & Grinnah is a 3.75" action figure sold on Amazon. Gollum was purchased from modfatherpinball.com. I searched everywhere for a good Gollum figure and finally found Modfather's site. They also have quality Thorin & Bilbo figures, but I had already purchased the other figures. The Modfather's Gollum is attached to the PF with a screwed metal tab so it appears suspended over the ball through alley. The other figures are affixed to PF plastics with applied Glue Dots to feet.

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#2784 7 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Kinda tall for a dwarf!

I agree. My dwarf Thorin is on Hobbit steroids. It measures 5" tall, not 6". Even though it's a beauty, it's too tall. I'm in the process of acquiring a shorter version of similar quality/detail.

1 week later
#2810 7 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Kinda tall for a dwarf!

Quoted from freddy:

and it blocks the view of the gate, which drops in certain modes

Better sized Dwarf Thorin installed! Purchased from ModFather. The Collector Series of Thorin figures found on Amazon are either too small or too big. ModFather's figure is of perfect size with no obstructive view of the gate & blue target under feet. The figure comes with an attached metal screw tab for anchoring to PF. In reality, it's essentially impossible to use for installation. Use glue dots applied to bottom of feet, insert figure and press down. The figure is of high quality in detail and workmanship, matching that of the Collector Series.

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#2819 7 years ago

I know this was mentioned before on New Hobbit Mod-Gold Ring Plate thread, but a GOLD/BRONZE plate would be more esthetic on either the LE hobbit or Gold Smaug cross bars. The silver plate looks good & professional, but GOLD, in my opinion, would be more desirable. I have purchased the silver etched mod. Does anybody know of a method (not gold spray paint) of making silver plate gold in color?

#2841 7 years ago

A precautionary note for installation of Cliffy's Hobbit Kickout Protectors: Don't OVER TIGHTEN, ESP. THE RADAGAST PROTECTOR!

Here's what happened to me: I installed the protectors & stopped tightening when I met firm resistance. Everything looked fine with no issues. After about 2 weeks, I reviewed several earlier posts on this thread that recommended for new Hobbit owners to raise PF & tighten all nuts, just in case they came loose with shipment. That's what I did. I then lowered the PF & noticed that the Radagast kickout protector had bowed upward from the PF!

The PF is not flat where the black posts of the VUK are anchored. There is a circular depression from the nuts of the posts. As a result, the metal protector will be depressed/deformed around the post holes with over tightening, causing the protector to bow upwards.

Solution: Buy a new Radagast Kickout Protector from Cliff ( approx. $23) & install without OVER TIGHTENING!
OR: Salvage protector using tack hammer to flattened protector around post holes, then reinstall without over tightening. I also placed a washer between the protector & posts.

s

4 weeks later
#2956 7 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Put extra lighting with Red in back and red by flippers back when I first got it and love it! But then again I'm addicted to modding lol

Your start button is red, not yellow. What did you change? Did you just change to a red LED? Is the LED 5v or 12v?

#2978 7 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

It's really easy and inexpensive to add a figure to your empty barrel. Just pick up a 3 3/4" Dwarf figure off EBay and take a large sharp butcher knife and severe him at the chest. Dwalin works really well because he has his tool belt that works great for a small screw to hold him in the barrel don't try glueing or epoxy as its not good enough long term to hold the figure in the jumping barrel.

I assume one has to remove the barrel top to affix the half figure. If so, do you just have to remove the two black front screws? Is it easy to screw the barrel top back on?

#2983 7 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I assume one has to remove the barrel top to affix the half figure. If so, do you just have to remove the two black front screws? Is it easy to screw the barrel top back on?

If you are going to add an action figure to the top of the right barrel, you have to move the book out of the way. The barrel tops can not be removed by just unscrewing the 2 anterior black screws. If you are just adding figure to right barrel top , remove the two metal bracket screws & move book up & to the left. If you are also going to replace the Thorin figure on the left barrel top, detach the main book cable (large blue thumb screw connector) and move book to the right to rest on the cabinet edge (Photo 3).

You have 5 action figures to choose from: Balin, Thorin, Kili, Fili, & Dwalin. They are 3" to 4" figures & can be purchased on eBay or Amazon for about $5 to $10.

Use a new box cutter blade. Place figure face down on a block of wood. Position blade perpendicular to figure, above midline, & hit blade with hammer to produce a clean, smooth transection (Photo 1). Glue figure to right barrel top (Photos 2 & 3 with Fili installed). I used LOCTITE supper glue professional liquid. So far, with multiple game plays, the figure has not popped off.

Now you're in a conundrum: The installed right barrel figure is far superior in looks, appropriate size & quality, compared to the Thorin figure on the left barrel top that came with the game. I decided to replace it!!

I used a variable speed Dremel tool to remove the original Thorin figure (Photo 4). Use a metal shaving bit to remove approx. 3/4 of the figure & a grinding stone bit to remove the remainder (Photo 5). I recommend a slow RPM (15,000). It's messy with shavings and dust. I placed a plastic apron around barrel to catch most the debris & vacuumed often. You must hold barrel firmly down with one hand & steady the other hand with Dremel toll using the back board of the PF. That damn tool wants to skip with potential marring of the barrel rim. Go slow & steady! When finished, touch up barrel top with black paint (Photo 6). I use ivory black oil paint. It was the only paint I had on hand. It's excellent for touch up but it took 48 hrs. to dry.

Now pick the figure you want & install with super glue (Photo 7: Thorin or Photo 8 Kili).

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#2984 7 years ago

Hobbit action figures installed, final product! The last photo shows brushed aluminum flipper bats installed, replacing the yellow JJP's. They were purchased from Pinball Life. I had to decide between gold vs. brushed aluminum. I have had trouble with the paint on the gold variety chipping off. I think the aluminum correlates well with the brushed aluminum ring button @ the front & the metal ramp @ the back. They are entirely metal & weigh slightly more than the plastic bats. With the increased weight, I think they are more responsive/"better feel". I have my Hobbit canted @ 6.9 degrees. With plastic bats, I needed to set the flipper strength @ 24. With the metal bats, I can lower the flipper strength back to 22.

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#2985 7 years ago

Addendum: I put Kili on the left barrel top (replacing Thorin that came with the game) since I have the Thorin figure in the horseshoe ramp. Two Thorins, side-by-side, just doesn't look esthetic. If you don't put a Thorin fig. @ the ramp, a Thorin on top of the left barrel looks really dramatic. What's neat about the figures is you can turn their heads towards the PF.

#2991 7 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Docdeath could you show a full playfield shot? I like everything but the golbin figure, i think that would look better with a barrel top and another dwarf on it.

Here's an attempt @ a full PF shot.

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1 month later
#3279 6 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

I picked up one of the Hobbit manuals. Was a little reluctant for $100 but will admit the manual is done VERY nice and has a deluge of info in it! It's not just limited to the typical manual stuff (Adjustments, Settings, Technical etc.) but also a lot of pictures/stories on the making of the game. Steps through the different white-woods, artwork, features etc.! VERY nice manual and worth the money (imo)!
Thanks Lloyd for posting that it was now available as I wasn't aware!!!</bloquote>

I know the manual is listed on the parts site. Question: With $100 purchase, do you download it from that site, or do they send a printed manual in the mail?

#3280 6 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

I picked up one of the Hobbit manuals. Was a little reluctant for $100 but will admit the manual is done VERY nice and has a deluge of info in it! It's not just limited to the typical manual stuff (Adjustments, Settings, Technical etc.) but also a lot of pictures/stories on the making of the game. Steps through the different white-woods, artwork, features etc.! VERY nice manual and worth the money (imo)!
Thanks Lloyd for posting that it was now available as I wasn't aware!!!

Is manual downloaded from the parts site, or do they send out a printed manual?

#3290 6 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Printed on a cardstock like material. Very nicely done! 400+ pages with 72 pages of "extra" stuff (making of The Hobbit) that you don't get from downloading online! Spiral bound!

Thanks for info. Just purchased it!

3 weeks later
#3414 6 years ago

I still have a recurring problem with my Goblin Pop-up. I've previously posted it on this thread (p. 55), but the problem persists. After several hits, the Goblin head stops popping up. The LED lights up, but the steel flap only moves upward above the PF surface about 1/16". I then stop game play & manually pop him up & twist head slightly. It then pops up for only a few additional hits & then quits working.

With the PF raised on skids and manual movement, there is absolutely no obstruction or impingement of the mechanism. It moves freely without hitting the PF wood edge. The Goblin head does not hit the plastic insert. I even removed the insert to make sure.

With the PF down & in the test mode, the Goblin steel flap only moves upwards 1/16"' to 1/8" above the PF surface, even after twisting the head ever so slightly. The other Pop-ups (Orc, Warg & Spider) work fine. In their test modes, the the steel flaps move about 1/2" above the PF & their mechanisms make a loader noise.

With the PF raised against the back box & in the test mode, the Goblin mechanism slides up to the steel flap & stops. With the other pop-ups, their mechanisms slide up to & hit the steel flaps and, as stated previously, make a loader noise. It's as if the Goblin coil is not strong enough/defective.

Any thoughts? I really think it might be a defective coil/sleeve. I really don't know why the slight head twist allows the mechanism to work a couple of times, since there is absolutely no obstruction or impingement to movement.

I emailed Victor 3+ wks. ago and he has yet to respond.

If it is the coil, how do you switch it out for a new one? I ordered a coil from the Hobbit Parts Store for $35 plus $28 two-day shipping. To switch coils, I assume you have to remove the two flap compression springs, lift off the steel flap, unplug the respective Molex connectors, & unscrew the 4 anchoring screws of the mechanism & pull entire mechanism out.

Thanks for any replies.

#3447 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I doubt it.

And then tear it all apart to switch coils. Getting it all back together and having it move freely is a huge time and aggravation ordeal. If it were me, I'd pull it out. Loosen, tweak, retighten, etc. etc. until it moves up and down freely.
I took one apart to make some pictures. And I marked where things lined up and screws went. And still wish I hadn't done that. I spent an hour tweaking things back to normal. I've included what torn apart looks like.
LTG : )

Quoted from ulmpharmd:

check the wiring...I had the same problem and messed with the plug and it started working..

The Goblin mechanism is now working correctly. It was not the coil (thank goodness!). With the PF raised up against the back box, I noticed that if I manually moved the pop-up guide shaft forward about 1/2" and then test fired, the mechanism worked normally like the others. The guide shaft slides through a centering bracket. The hole in the bracket is surrounded by a short blue synthetic sleeve. Even though the shaft moved through the sleeve with absolutely no resistance, I added a micro drop of high grade/premium machine oil. As an after thought, I also disconnected & then reconnected the coil plug. I then tested the mode & it worked fine. So either the lubrication did the trick, or there was a poor connection at the plug.

I don't like using oil but I didn't have any graphite. With pinball play & the eventual production of the "dreaded black dust", the centering bracket aperture may get "gummed up". I'll have to wait & see.

5 months later
#4074 6 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Sorry, no video but you could be the one to make one. I pay $20.00 for any video I don't have of my kits in action.
My backpanel illumination mod is a strip of leds that illuminates the back of the play field. It comes with an inline rremote to select colors, brightness, or modes, I also make a version that uses a smartphone app to control colors.
Chris
http://www.rockcustompinball.com
» YouTube video

Chris,
What,s the difference between the regular/standard interactive undercab lighting for the Hobbit vs. the deluxe model (besides the coat)? Are the interactive colors just three (RGB)?

2 weeks later
#4109 6 years ago

Has anyone purchased & installed Rock Custom's interactive under cabinet lighting? Is it easy to install? Any reviews?

#4121 6 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I have one on the way for WOZ. In a month or two, I'll get the TH version.

Did you purchase it from Rock Custom Pinball or Mezel Mods? Did you get the deluxe version? I interfaced with Chris & he said that even though there is a deluxe version listed on his Rock Custom website, there isn't one for the Hobbit.

1 month later
#4264 6 years ago
Quoted from Ranhorton:

I really dig the barrel beer holder! Also, do the mini barrels mount over (or attach onto) the existing playfiled spotlights? If so, that’s awesome!

Review page 56 of this thread.

#4270 6 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Added this precious ring today. Thought it looked great. Was only about $12 on eBay. Fits the overall quality of the machine. Love this game.

Photo of alternative site for Hobbit ring display (sorry for duplicate photo).

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#4278 6 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

That looks good too. How's it held on? I positioned mine above the precious outlane on top of the ring image on play field. Your spot is definitely more predominantly shown though. Nice.

Use a 3mm diameter wood dowel, 3 & 3/8" in length. If desired, stain brown to match color of book cover. Affix three spaced 5mm glue dots to dowel. Mount/stick dowel to backside of book cover behind glass plate on the left, with approximately 3/8" of dowel protruding above book cover. That leaves plenty of space between top of dowel & PF glass. If you try to mount it on the right side of the book cover, there's not enough space. My ring size is 6. With game play, ring is stable & does not come off dowel.

Note: I use glue dots to mount the majority of my pinball mods. It's not as messy as crazy glue (or other types of adhesives) & it doesn't have to be permanent.

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#4280 6 years ago

Not a fan of the Hobbit sticker (?Erebor Graphic) between the upper back box speakers. Replaced it with a 3" square Gollum sticker (photos 2 & 3). It's not too flashy & it correlates well with the front of the cabinet. Original sticker easy to remove after gentle heating with hair dryer. Use alcohol or lighter fluid to clean/remove any adhesive residue.

If interested, go to zazzle.com. Type "hobbit stickers" in search. There are 305 choices (three examples in photo 1). You can order matte or gloss & customize the background color. They have multiple shapes & sizes. The central space between the speakers is 8 X 3 inches, so the 3" square or the 4.5 X 2.7" rectangle is a perfect fit. Rectangles are a sheet of four; squares are a sheet of 6. You can also search for "hobbit magnets". There are 327 choices. Unfortunately, they only offer squares & circles. The squares are too small. They do offer a 3" diameter circle size.

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2 weeks later
#4323 6 years ago

I'm contemplating switching out the red smaug with the gold edition. How hard is it to remove & replace? Do you just have to raise the PF, detach leads & remove any anchoring screws, etc.?

Has anyone removed & sent their smaug to Back Alley Creations for their "Smaug Gold Paint Job"? If so, did they do a compulsive, pristine job?

1 week later
#4362 6 years ago

Photos of installed 3.75" series Hobbit action figs. PF now ready for the "Battle of the Five Armies." All figs. except for Tauriel are mounted at or near their corresponding representations on the PF. All figs. except for Balin are anchored to the PF plastics with glue dots on their feet. Balin is mounted with a zip tie of his left leg to the post of the barrel spotlight. All figs. are positioned in relatively safe spots, out of the way of the occasional air ball. With 20+ plays, all figs. are still intact, free of damage or disruption.

Some Hobbit owners will say this if "March Madness." The PF is too cluttered/busy. However, "beauty is in the eye of the beholder." In my case, "beauty is in the eye of my spouse." With my LE Hobbit costing $8500, in addition to $1000+ cost of added mods, if the spouse says "add the figures," you add the figs.

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#4364 6 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Finished adding some mods and completed the ramp flap upgrade on my Hobbit this week. I added the Lermods back panel gold lightning, florescent green plastic protectors for lower plastics, and the laser engraved ring button plate with gold colored ring button. I added some green Perfect Play flipper bands and post rubbers when I got the game.
The metal ring button plate isn't cheap but looks very nice. It would be sweet to get something similar to replace the green sticker between the speakers.

See post #4280, page 86 in this thread.

1 month later
#4541 5 years ago

Pinballpro.com is now promoting Pinhedz Wax,Cleaner & Maintenance Products made specifically for new generation pinball machines. Are any Hobbit owners familiar/used said products?

3 months later
#5106 5 years ago

What's the difference between 2.95 & 2.96? I have 2.95. Would one recommend up grading to 2.96, or just wait for 3.00?

8 months later
#6764 4 years ago

Radagast fig. with lighted staff crystal.

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1 year later
#9885 3 years ago

I moved the Hobbit Ring from the book cover (photo #3, a previous Hobbit owners thread post) to atop of the game back panel pillar sculpture (photos #1 & #2) because I purchase the Sculped Book Cover & Stand from The Art of Pinball. I haven't received it yet, but I did it in preparation for it's arrival, perhaps not until June. Of the mods I've purchased, including the many action figures, some of which I've modified, three stand out: barrel playfield lights, bag end gate and the Sculpted Book Cover & Stand.

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#9890 3 years ago

Tuna_Delight Is overheating of flipper coils a common problem? I have two Stern & one JJP games and haven't notice over heating. This is the first time I've herd of this problem. Maybe it's because my games do not have extended, greater than one hour, play. My son has 23 pinball machines and has also not notice a problem with over heating coils in any of his games. I've been on Pinside for 10+yrs. and this is the first I've heard of this problem.

#9893 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

The coils aren't overheating. That is not the issue. As the coils heat up they lose their 'POP'. You will notice this on most modern games especially when having a long game, long multiballs etc.. where the flippers are getting a lot of use and not much time to cool off.
Typically when this happens you think, 'is it just me or are these flippers not as powerful as they were earlier?' If you have ever said or thought this you have probably been experiencing flipper fade.
If you have never noticed it, it probably won't ever bother you. If you have noticed it, you will want to do something about it.
I don't know if Pinmonk coined the term flipper fade or not (maybe) but he seems to be the first person to actually do something about it. I have seen passive radiators used before to cool off coils but this is the first active cooling solution that I am aware of. I can't wait to get these on my JJPs.

Thanks !

#9895 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Flipper fade has been around for a long time.
It most notably started with LOTR, At the time, LOTR was noticeably one of the longest playing games with the deepest rule-set, games would go on for an hour or more in the hopes of reaching Valinor.
It has to do mostly with the flipper hold system when you hold the flipper up for an extended amount of time they get hot.
As people get better at pinball they cradle the balls more and time out modes more to get further into a game.
Recent games that also have a deep rule-set and tend to be multiball heavy, get a lot more flipper action that heats up the coils.
Hot solenoid coils have more electrical resistance. More resistance gives you less power for the plungers.
Adding cooling fans to LOTR on route games has helped to solve the problems.
I think that adding cooling systems to newer modern games can drastically reduce flipper fade.
It might also be sorted out with code improvements or different flipper hold systems.

Thanks for the info. Does one have to purchase 3 cooling fans for the Hobbit 3 flippers? Would it be possible to buy one fan to cool both lower flipper coils? Are there free spaces under the HEAVY playfield to mount them? I don't want to lift it now to find out. Do the fans run on 5v or 10v?

As a Side Note: Thank God for Pinside & pinball machines to deal with the Covid-19 isolation & depression. If pinsiders have'nt, donate now!

#9897 3 years ago

A different variety of the Hobbit Ring Shooter Rod. Photo #1 is the rod installed. Photo#2 is an extra, new, unused, never installed rod I purchased in error. Several years ago, I bought one on eBay, forgot, and purchased a second from there website. I don't remember the website. I don't know if the website still exists or if they have any in stock. I think it was originally made for LOTR.

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#9906 3 years ago

My problem with the Hobbit/LOTR clear shooter rod ring nob is that it discolors to a yellow/fecal/bile stained hue with time. The attached photo shows the discoloration after 4 yrs. of age. That's alright with me since I'm obsessive/compulsive with anal overtones. Even with the discoloration, the gold ring is the focal point.

Note #1: Donate to Pinside if you haven't.

Note#2: Thank you Trumpanche for the Bag End Gate.

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#9917 3 years ago

My intent with post #9906 was not to offend or interfere with any LOTR shooter rod sales. Here's what happen: I was taking a shot of Jack Daniel's & accidentally dropped my wedding ring into the shot glass and said/thought: "That looks like my LOTR shooter rod." I started to see RED and then a lightbulb came on: Buy the blood red model! So I did @ Modelvisionary. You can purchase it on eBay are through Pinside (see post #9850). It is ring size 22, 36mm or 1 1/4 in. in diameter, the standard shooter rod size.

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#9921 3 years ago

Modelvisionary/Bill/William: You have two additional mod options for you Arkenstone crystal: If it really "picks up & refracts the room light so that it seems to glow even when not lit", why not make an Arkenstone shooter rod. If you do, Hobbit owners must decide between between a started button or a shooter rod. One wouldn't want to have both external to the cabinet. The second option is to mount a crystal mod variant centered on the game back panel pillar sculpture above Thorin. I'm tempted to purchase your smaller start button and adapt it. I could even light it, though it may not be necessary if it really reflects/refracts light. With that, Hobbit owners could have one crystal inside cabinet and one crystal external.

2 weeks later
#10043 2 years ago

I emailed Bill Hanson, a gentleman & honest vendor (like most Pinsiders), concerning his Arkenstone Start Button. Does it really reflect ambient room light or do you have to light it from behind with a LED? I was in the process of making a lighted Arkenstone mod to place inside my Hobbit cabinet, centered on the game back panel pillar sculpture. I was using a clear acrylic 22mm half sphere, lit with a blue micro LED (Photo 1). I saw Bill's Arkenstone Start Button in this thread. I wanted to replace my clear half sphere with Bill's Arkenstone. My plan was to purchase his Arkenstone start button, disassemble it and use just the stone. Bill said that would not be necessary. He had an extra 35mm Arkenstone available to try. The received stone is unbelievable. I mounted it, centered on the pillar sculpture with a half inch glue dot. Photo 2 is with only ambient room lighting. Photo 3 is with cabinet lighting on. You really don't need to light it from behind with a LED, unless you want it to flash. The submitted Photos really don't do it justice!

If you like this idea, you can purchase the SMAUG'S HOARD ARKENSTONE from Bill's superskillshot.com (cost is 60$) and mount it on the pillar sculpture instead of in the pile of gold. It is smaller in diameter than the one I used, but smaller might be better. You might want to purchase two, one for the pile of gold and one for the pillar sculpture.

Thank you Bill Hanson!!!

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#10044 2 years ago

Bill's Arkenstone with back panel LED strip blue/UV (Photo 1), not red as in above post (10043). Photo 2 is with playfield lights on. Note: Don't affix stone to back panel sculpture with 1/2" glue dot as previously recommended. The dot is too thin and won't hold. Use a double sided adhesive tape such as Gorilla. It's thicker than a glue dot & there is more surface area of stone & pillar adhering.

BILL'S ARKENSTONE 001 (resized).JPGBILL'S ARKENSTONE 001 (resized).JPGBILL'S ARKENSTONE 001 (resized).JPGBILL'S ARKENSTONE 001 (resized).JPG
#10053 2 years ago

It really takes two people for the job. When tightening unit back together, I recommend using Lock Tight so with play, the mechanism doesn't loosen again.

Quoted from LTG:

Yes, it adjusts the rubber stopper thingy.

I'd remove the mech from the game and spend a lot of time adjusting, loosening, tightening, the brackets holding everything until it goes up and down smoothly.
LTG : )

#10054 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

I'm loving Bill's "Arkenstone in Smaug's Horde" mod! https://superskillshot.com/products/arkenstone-on-the-gold-pile-for-the-hobbit
I took some time to both add a lamp to it and to add an LED controller to that lamp and to the Throne of Erebor LED so they pulse like the Start button mod. It keeps the original flasher lamp and adds to it. I also added a controller to Bag End's lamp and the trough lamp, which adds some nice dynamism to those areas. I think I'll move the two Arkenstones to separate controllers next week so they pulse out of synch with one another, just for a little extra randomness and visual interest.
I'm really pleased with the overall effect - the Arkenstone is a stunning improvement over the gold flasher dome that was there - it's really impressive! It's pretty easy to install as well - the hardest thing is just demating the tiny LED connectors under the gold pile - if you can do that, it's pretty much a drop in!

(sorry for the noisy glass-off vid...)

Trumpanche: What do you mean by "demating"? From your video, it looks like you have also mounted the Smaug's horde Arkenstone on the back panel sculpture & back lit it. Where/how did you hide the wire leads? Also, which Arkenstone Start Button did you decide to install? The low profile?

#10071 2 years ago

A post worth repeating: Lubricate your Hobbit & all pinball machine spinners with Super Lube 51010 Multi-Purpose Synthetic Oil. You can purchase it on Amazon for about $3. "A little micro dab will do it & it will spin foreverrrrr!" I was initially concerned that the lubricated spinner would collect dust and get gummed up, interfering with spinning. I lubricated mine 3yrs ago and they still spin foreverrrrr! You will be surprised at the result.

SUPER LUBE 001 (resized).JPGSUPER LUBE 001 (resized).JPG
#10083 2 years ago

Trumpanche: Forgive my stupidity but how do you exchange the Smaug's hoard Arkenstone with the yellow light cap in the pile of gold? I thought all one had to do was unscrew the single nut, lift front gold panel, pop out yellow cap & insert the Arkenstone. This is not working for me. I hope you don't need to lift the playfield and work underneath.

#10085 2 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Trumpanche: Forgive my stupidity but how do you exchange the Smaug's hoard Arkenstone with the yellow light cap in the pile of gold? I thought all one had to do was unscrew the single nut, lift front gold panel, pop out yellow cap & insert the Arkenstone. This is not working for me. I hope you don't need to lift the playfield and work underneath.

Trumpanche: I emailed Bill Hansen & he sent me detailed instructions with photos to install the Smaug's Hoard Arkenstone in the pile of gold. You no longer have to help me with this task! Thanks!!!

#10122 2 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Post some pictures after the install - I am thinking about this mod too
I kind of wish Lior would redo that gold pile in front of Smaug to have a cool looking pile of treasures mixed in with the coins and a nice sculpted Arkenstone that is integrated with the gold pile more than just a flasher. That said this mod does do what I think the machines should have - and that is a Arkenstone in that gold in front of Smaug

Goronic: Here are the Photos with Bill's Arkenstone installed in the Smaug's Hoard Pile of Gold front panel as requested. Photo 1 is with game/playfield lights on. Photo 2 is with only the back panel LED strip on. I don't think it's too redundant. The Arkenstone on the back panel pillar sculpture is larger and the Hoard Pile of Gold stone does not always flash. I plan to back light the larger pillar sculpture stone with a pulsating LED.

I've always maintain that you can overdue a good thing, that one should have only one of Bill's Arkenstone inside the cabinet and one outside (starter button), but damn those stones are nice!!!

I installed Bill's low profile Arkenstone Starter Button. I agree with Trumpanche that it looks best on a LE Hobbit.

GOLD PILE ARKENSTONE 001 (resized).JPGGOLD PILE ARKENSTONE 001 (resized).JPGGOLD PILE ARKENSTONE 002 (resized).JPGGOLD PILE ARKENSTONE 002 (resized).JPG
#10124 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think the sillly square light in the backboard could use some work, as a mod.
The Eye of Suaron, Much like the Palantir mod on LOTR would be really good.

Quoted from Travahontas:

pinballinreno - I rarely notice that lamp and have no idea what they were trying to achieve with it... It’s just a red dot. It doesn’t light anything; it doesn’t seem to represent anything from the movies; it’s visually obscured (depending on your height)...
I’m thinking if we put a mod back there, it’s so far back and obscured by Smaug that no one would even notice??
[quoted image]</blockquo
But, Im optimistic that someone can come up with something better.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Lol, yeah, its just a power on indicator...? Im curious what was going on in the art directors mind.
But, Im optimistic that someone can come up with something better.

How to mod the back indicator light? Let's put a Smaug's eye there! "Smaug is in hiding but keeping a watchful eye on you." My photos do not do my mod justice. They are too dark. I think my camera needs cataract surgery! I took a 1.5cm acrylic clear half sphere, made an elliptical pupil from black electrical tape and affixed the half sphere with pupil affixed to the indicated with glue dot. The black pupil is horizontal, not vertical, but let's just assume Smaug is looking down in the backbox. I tried vertical mounting, but horizontal is more aesthetic.

Amazon has a myriad of glass dragon eyes. I have order several to upgrade my mod, but they my not be transparent to light. If they are, the red indicator light may not be bright enough. Right now I'm satisfied with what I have.

Smaug's Hidden Eye 001 (resized).JPGSmaug's Hidden Eye 001 (resized).JPGSmaug's Hidden Eye 002 (resized).JPGSmaug's Hidden Eye 002 (resized).JPG
#10135 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The slit in the eye should go vertical like the eye of Sauron I think.
Other than that, I like where this is heading!

Pinballinreno: I originally mounted Smaug's eye with the pupil slit vertical, but when I switched to horizontal, I liked it better aesthetically. I know it's not anatomically correct but my Hobbit LE Smaug, hiding in the back of the cabinet, has a genetic defect or is looking down.

I'm going to receive several glass dragon eyes from Amazon on Wednesday. I don't know if they will allow enough light transmission from the red indicator light. It's not very bright. Maybe Trumpanche can mod it to increase the intensity.

#10136 2 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

docdeath what is that arkenstone mod at the ramps crossover? That looks nice.
I like the one in the Smaug pile, but it looks a swine to fit. Also not sure how much it would catch my eye during play.
Good chat in this thread recently about concentrating on the modes. Loving doing that to see what kind of game it leads to. Be sweet if there was a multiball built in mid-way through the mode progression.

thewool: See post 10043. Installation of Bill's Arkenstone into the pile of gold front panel (Smaug's Hoard) is not the easiest of tasks. You are working in a small confined space. What you have to do is straight forward but it takes time & patience & a shot of Jack Daniel's. It periodically flashes during game play. When it does, it's amazing.

2 weeks later
#10177 2 years ago

Photo 1 is Bill's Smaug's Hoard Arkenstone mounted on the back pillar sculpture with glue dot. The stone is 25mm diameter & light enough to attach/hold with a single glue dot. I think it's very dramatic. It can be purchased from superskillshot.com for $60. One drawback is it's too small for proper back lighting with a pulsating LED. It's also the same size as the Arkenstone in the pile of gold & might be too redundant for Trumpanche.

Notice the dragon eye installed @ the back left indicator light! Glass dragon eye is 14mm diameter, purchased from Amazon. Your options are 14mm & 20mm. Both sizes work but I decided on the smaller size.

Photo 2 is the unfinished installation of the larger (35mm) Arkenstone on the back pillar sculpture. It pulsates! It is back lit with a 12v blue 3 LED strip cut to 1, purchased from cometpinball.com. Go to cometpinall.com, click on All Products...Matrix...Lights & Wiring...12v Lighting Strip 3SMD. You can cut the 3 LED strip to one (instruction for cutting: click Light Strip, 6.3v). You also need to click on Matrix Extension Wires.

I used the matrix wire extensions to reach the 12v power source connector in the left front cabinet corner near the start button & connected/used Trumpanche's variable mode harness. I set it to pulsate. Of course that meant I left the Bill's Arkenstone Start Button flashing. The LED wires drape down in front of the sculpture and exit the playfield between the metal ramps on the left side. With remount the Thorin Action fig., the wires are not that big of a distraction.

Special Note: If you use a Hobbit cabinet power source, it's 12v. To avoid overheating/electrical fire, you must use a 12v LED, not 6.3v or less!!!

I will attempt to post a video of the finished installation later this week. It is really dramatic/unbelievable. If there is a market for the larger stone, back lighted or not, maybe we can convince Bill Hanson to produce them.

Thanks Bill Hanson for the Arkenstone & Trumpanche for the variable mode harness!!

Smaug's Hoard Arkenstone 001 (resized).JPGSmaug's Hoard Arkenstone 001 (resized).JPGPrelim. Stone Mount 002 (resized).JPGPrelim. Stone Mount 002 (resized).JPG
#10194 2 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Photo 1 is Bill's Smaug's Hoard Arkenstone mounted on the back pillar sculpture with glue dot. The stone is 25mm diameter & light enough to attach/hold with a single glue dot. I think it's very dramatic. It can be purchased from superskillshot.com for $60. One drawback is it's too small for proper back lighting with a pulsating LED. It's also the same size as the Arkenstone in the pile of gold & might be too redundant for Trumpanche.
Notice the dragon eye installed @ the back left indicator light! Glass dragon eye is 14mm diameter, purchased from Amazon. Your options are 14mm & 20mm. Both sizes work but I decided on the smaller size.
Photo 2 is the unfinished installation of the larger (35mm) Arkenstone on the back pillar sculpture. It pulsates! It is back lit with a 12v blue 3 LED strip cut to 1, purchased from cometpinball.com. Go to cometpinall.com, click on All Products...Matrix...Lights & Wiring...12v Lighting Strip 3SMD. You can cut the 3 LED strip to one (instruction for cutting: click Light Strip, 6.3v). You also need to click on Matrix Extension Wires.
I used the matrix wire extensions to reach the 12v power source connector in the left front cabinet corner near the start button & connected/used Trumpanche's variable mode harness. I set it to pulsate. Of course that meant I left the Bill's Arkenstone Start Button flashing. The LED wires drape down in front of the sculpture and exit the playfield between the metal ramps on the left side. With remount the Thorin Action fig., the wires are not that big of a distraction.
Special Note: If you use a Hobbit cabinet power source, it's 12v. To avoid overheating/electrical fire, you must use a 12v LED, not 6.3v or less!!!
I will attempt to post a video of the finished installation later this week. It is really dramatic/unbelievable. If there is a market for the larger stone, back lighted or not, maybe we can convince Bill Hanson to produce them.
Thanks Bill Hanson for the Arkenstone & Trumpanche for the variable mode harness!![quoted image][quoted image]

ATTENTION: You CAN'T use the 12v 3SMD, cut to 1 LED, sold by Comet Pinball as described in #10177 post. You can't cut it!!! and have it work. After corresponding with Comet Pinball, they recommend their 6.3v 3SMD strip, cut to 1, and purchase their brightness adjuster in the matrix products to reduce the voltage.

Question for Pinsiders, Trumpanche included: I'm presently using the 12v power source with Trumpanche's mode harness set to the slow pulsate mode using the 6.3v LED strip. To me, that means that the 12v current is not always maximum. Is it still safe to use the 6.3v strip? Also, there is a brightness button on the harness. I could cut down the brightness. Wouldn't that of course cut down the voltage, the same purpose as installing Comet Pinball's brightness adjuster?

#10195 2 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

ATTENTION: You CAN'T use the 12v 3SMD, cut to 1 LED, sold by Comet Pinball as described in #10177 post. You can't cut it!!! and have it work. After corresponding with Comet Pinball, they recommend their 6.3v 3SMD strip, cut to 1, and purchase their brightness adjuster in the matrix products to reduce the voltage.
Question for Pinsiders, Trumpanche included: I'm presently using the 12v power source with Trumpanche's mode harness set to the slow pulsate mode using the 6.3v LED strip. To me, that means that the 12v current is not always maximum. Is it still safe to use the 6.3v strip? Also, there is a brightness button on the harness. I could cut down the brightness. Wouldn't that of course cut down the voltage, the same purpose as installing Comet Pinball's brightness adjuster?

If you back light the Arkenstone with JJP 12v power source, you'll need use the brightness adjuster, either from Comet Pinball or the brightness button on Trumpanche mode harness to reduce the voltage. I hooked up the 6.3v LED to the 12v power source/mode harness & set it to slow pulsate. I did not reduce the brightness/voltage. After 3 minutes, the LED started to smoke. I'm going to reduce the brightness on the harness & see what happens (not now, I'm too depressed & tired of lifting that heavy playfield). Additional Post To Follow, hopefully with a video.

Note: Why does JJP use a 12v power source for it's LED's? With my Stern games (LE Hulk & Tron Pro), I have the options for 5v or 10v sources with Molex connectors. The 12v power source in my LE Hobbit is giving me problems with the dragon eye/red indicator light mod.

#10199 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I’m not quite sure what you are trying to do, but using a 5v led with a 12v power using a dimmer is not going to work and you are playing with fire doing it that way. An easy way to do it is get a 12v strip, cut it into a section of 3 and tape over two of the three leds with electrical tape. As comet told you, you can’t cut 12v strips into single leds. We use voltage regulators in our mods if we need to change voltage, but for what you want to do, seems just taping over the leds might work.

Thanks for your response. Gregory of Comet Pinball recommended use of his matrix brightness adjuster to reduce the voltage. He originally told me, via email, that you could cut his 12v 3SMD strip down to one. I did but it didn't work. He later said he was incorrect. He now states: "You can cut my 6.3v strip, but not the 12v." Using a 3 LED strip, with 2 LEDS taped over, will not work. The Arkenstone that I want to back light is only 35mm in diameter.

What does the voltage regulator look like? Do you sell them. Is it like a 120v converter system down to 5v, 10v, etc. They are quite large. Forgive my electrical ignorance.

#10209 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

I had an extra dimmer from comet so tested this. Alligator clipped it to my hobbit spotlight with exposed leads and then to a 6v post lamp. The voltage on the light was 10.97v on its own, and with the comet dimmer turned all the way down the voltage on the post lamp was 4.4v so I think what comet recommended is viable, but I’m not an electrical engineer so proceed with caution!

Plungerboy: When I got my LE Hobbit 4 yrs. ago (on either the Hobbit Owners or Hobbit Mod threads), LTG/Lermods/or another pinsider warned that if you install a lighted mod using the Hobbit's 12v electrical system & something goes wrong, you will void the 1 yr. warranty. So I installed an independent electrical system: DC 120v converter to 5v/10v/Gr. wire leads to the 8-Way Power Splitter Board from Pinball Life with use of 3 port Molex connectors. I use the 5v Molex connector to back light Bill's Arkenstone with a blue Star Post Light from Comet Pinball. It's a circle of 4 LED squares that fits perfectly behind Bill's stone. With the 5v source, the stone shows diffuse illumination without the squares showing through it's back white membrane. If you use the Hobbit's 12v source, the squares show through and you have the risk of an electrical hazard!!! If you use the Hobbit's 12v source and a 6.3v LED, you'll need to also install a voltage (Buck) regulator. I pulsate the stone using the LED Controller for STERN Whitestar / Sam (BRIGHTMODS.com).

I'll try to post a video of the final installation soon. The lighted, pulsaing Arkenstone is unbelievable!!!

#10211 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

I'm not trying to mod my hobbit, I was replying to another post that was trying to understand the voltage dimmer from Comet and if it could be used on a 12v system with 6v lamps as the folks at Comet stated. It seems to be possible.

Thanks for your input. Let me emphasize the superior quality of Bill's Arkenstone. You don't have to back light it. It reflects ambient light on it's own & it's a simple mod to affix either the Smaug's Hoard Stone or the 30mm stone (sold by superskillshot.com) to the back pillar sculpture with double sided Gorillar tape (see previous posts). If you want to pulsate it, then you have to jack around with issues of 12v, 5v, current regulators, etc.

#10231 2 years ago

Hey Trumpanche, how do you download/post your videos? When I try, I get "invalid extension." It needs PDF or some other extension I've never encountered. I'm not that computer literate. I can email the video as a file, not picture/image. On Pinside posting preview, there's a notation "DROP FILES HERE TO UPLOAD (OR CLICK THE UPLOAD BUTTON)." It's not highlighted as the blue "Attach image(s)..." and of course if you click on it, nothing happens.

#10248 2 years ago

Photos of Dragon Eye affixed to back left indicator red plastic plate. Photo 1 is without game lights on. Photo 2 is with indicator (game lights) on. I plan to increase the brightness of the LED indicator light & have it slow blink with a mode harness. As it stands, it's just okay. With increased blinking brightness, it would be more apparent & dramatic. I've alerted Trumpanche for his input.

Dragon Eye 001 (resized).JPGDragon Eye 001 (resized).JPGDragon Eye 002 (resized).JPGDragon Eye 002 (resized).JPG
#10250 2 years ago

Still photo and brief video of pulsed lit dragon eye affixed to back left red indicator plate (final mod). Special thanks to Trumpanche for help in posting video.

Back Lit Dragon Eye 001 (resized).JPGBack Lit Dragon Eye 001 (resized).JPG
#10263 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Installed my arkenstone horde mod with lamp mod tonight.
Looks great!
Pulsation works ok. It dies after a couple hours in attract mode but comes back after a reboot.
There is a dark band across the stone from the players point of view.
I tilted the stone a bit and tilted the gold pile 1/4" to resolve it mostly.
Seems ok.
Looks best when viewed from the right a bit.
We will see how sturdy it is after a few games.
Right now its just jammed in the hole at a slight angle.
Over all it looks way better than the original.
Its tight and I cant very easily pull it out unless I push it from the rear inside the sculpture.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pinballinreno: To remove Arkenstone from Smaug's pile of gold, just stick a piece of tape to stone & lift out.

6 months later
#11024 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

TWIPY nominations have started!
It’d be really gratifying to see the ‘Gate at Bag End’ mod nominated for Best New Mod this year. I know Reaper is writing it in for sure haha
https://twipys.com/2021-pre-voting/
[quoted image]

The Best New Mod of this year should include two categories: Artistic & Functional. For artistic, good examples for the Hobbit include Bill's Arkenstone Start Button and PinballCharlie's Bag End Dwelling. For functional, Trumpanche's Bag End Gate wins hands down! That mod is soooo simple, yet ingenious. It really changes and adds to excited game play. Thank you Travis, Bill & Chuck.

1 month later
#11121 2 years ago

Has any Pinsider received The Little Shop Of Games sculpted pop up Beast Heads?

1 week later
#11134 2 years ago

One of my beast heads does not pop up all the way compared to the other three (about 2/3 rds up). It does not hit the playfield. There is no interference with manual manipulation. It's high enough to continue with game play but I just want it up as high as the other three.

3 weeks later
#11160 2 years ago

Has any pinsider received their LSofG Beast Heads? On Jan. 18th, their website stated the Heads had cleared customs & they are in the process of fulfilling orders. I'm sure they are swamped! They are quite expensive ($359 + shipping) but their quality & workmanship are worth it. Their site of origin is the Middle East (Israel), not Europe (Germany) as many pinsiders think. When items are sent, I hope a tracking # is provided!

#11162 2 years ago

I have sent multiple emails (2 weeks +) with no response with respect to order fulfillment/shipping. Is it time to be concerned? I'm I too impatient? Is Covid-19 delaying the process? I know they are probably swamped with order fulfillment, but we need some communication.

#11171 2 years ago

There appears to be two methods to replace the Beast Heads from LSogG: LTG: remove spring clips & playfield tin flap, raise playfield & remove 3 to 4 screws of beast mechanism, detach wire leads & remove entire beast mechanism from below the playfield. Or: remove spring clips & playfield tin flap, do something else (?) and remove just the inner beast head mechanism from above the playfield. I need help with what appears the second easier method! Forgive me if I have miss-interrupted previous posts (it might be Covid-9 long brain fog).

*HINT: When you replace the Beast Heads using the two small machine screws, USE LOCTITE!

#11174 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I replaced mine from above. Raised the beast mech manually by pushing up from below the playfield, placed a popsicle stick (on top of the playfield and under the raised beast mech) to hold it in place, removed the playfield flap assembly temporarily, and then removed the two screws attaching the beast.
Reverse the process and the new beast is done.
Rinse and repeat for the other three. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is the easiest method by far...

Thanks!!!

Reason for LOCTITE: Four years ago, I found a small machine screw in the bottom of my cabinet. LTG said, more likely than not, it's from a beast head. It was a top screw of the right upper head. With extreme difficulty, I was able to re-screw the top site using LOCTITE. Last week, I found a similar screw in the bottom of the cabinet. It turn out that it was the lower screw of the same head! Use LOCTITE!

1 week later
#11186 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I replaced mine from above. Raised the beast mech manually by pushing up from below the playfield, placed a popsicle stick (on top of the playfield and under the raised beast mech) to hold it in place, removed the playfield flap assembly temporarily, and then removed the two screws attaching the beast.
Reverse the process and the new beast is done.
Rinse and repeat for the other three. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Replacing the Beast Heads was not "easy peasy" for me. One really needs patience, 4 shots of Jack Daniel's & a magnetic wand/probe to retrieve accidently dropped spring clips, springs & screws into the beast mechanism.

My approach: Raise playfield to rest on top of front cabinet (it does not have to be tilted back to the back box). From under the playfield, stuff a wash rag or paper towels into the beast mechanism to raise & stabilize it above the playfield. Remove spring clips, springs & playfield flap. Remove the two screws and 2-holed base plate from back of beast head & lift head out. The next step is important to reduce fumbling with individual screws & baseplate: Take the replacement head from LSofG and attach both screws with base plate before inserting it into the mechanism. Screw in the screws about 2mm. Make sure they are oriented straight up & down. Now insert head with limited attached screws & base plate into beast mechanism & finished the anchoring with a small sized wrench. It wasn't until the fourth head (wolf head with recessed back) that I thought of this easier, less time consuming approach. Now, of course, attach playfield flap, springs & clips. Remove wash rag/paper towels from inside beast mechanism & make sure it moves up and down smoothly.

It was interesting to note that after 500+ games (my Hobbit is 4+ yrs. old) the JJP's beast heads showed no damage.

1 month later
#11242 1 year ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I replaced all the beasts with Liors and they look great! But, I finally had one of the wires for this beast break. So I will have to solder a new wire on. Not that big a deal - but I am wondering if I can get a more durable wire to replace it with - a stronger tougher one.
Anyone have any suggestions on a better (higher quality) wire that I should use? Or should I just replace it with a wire of like quality?
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinballHaven:

Lengthen and re-route the wire so it's not an issue, the factory wiring is kind of not well placed IMO.

When the Hobbit LE was first released (5 yrs ago), one of the major problems was the lead wires of the beast mechanisms were getting amputated. I checked mine & sure enough, the wire insulation was getting indented. It would be only a matter of time & they would be amputated. In the early posts of the Hobbit Owners Thread, LTG (or another pinsider) remedied the situation with insertion of a 3/4" or 1/2" metal washer to protect/move the wire leads out of the way. I suggest review of the early Hobbit Owners Thread posts or contact LTG (if he still reeling to respond)

#11244 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Sorry. No. Not on jjp issues.
LTG : )

LTG: Sorry you have left input of your expertise on LE Hobbit issues on the Hobbit Owners Thread. Your IMMEDIATE response to the many issues/problems of the initial release of the LE Hobbit were invaluable: Immediate, informative diagnoses with definitive photos. I & other pinsiders thank you. Your immediate input was better than using the $125 owners manual.

Note: I used the word "reeling" in my recent post. The correct word is "willing." Do to LONG COVID & Jack Daniel's, it was my subconscious wish to "reel" you back into our Hobbit Owners Thread.

1 week later
#11257 1 year ago

Purchased & exchanged steel pinballs with GOLD, including the Newton Ball! The GOLD Pinballs (total of 6: 5 playfield balls & the captive ball) were purchased from CoinTaker: "...made from Carbon Steel...will not magnetize... no gold wearing off on playfield or rubbers ..." The cost if $14.95/ball plus shipping & tax.

The Gold Newton ball purchase was a little more involved. It took me about 2 months of searching. There were two sites in Europe (Germany?). The cost & delay of shipping were prohibitive ($80+ & who knows how long?).

With Google search, I found Mr. Pinball in Australia (shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/newton-ball-assy-gold). The cost was $33 +$21 international shipping. Delivery took 2 weeks. My delivery was relatively fast. It depends on restricted air flights out of Australia. If you order on a weekend, you won't get confirmation of purchase until Monday.

Note #1: The GOLD CoinTaker pinballs & the Au. Newton ball are the same standard size (1&1/16").

Note #2: A GOLD captive ball with an adjacent steel Newton ball really is not that distracting (Photo #2).

GOLD Captive & Newton Balls 001 (resized).JPGGOLD Captive & Newton Balls 001 (resized).JPGGOLD PINBALL 001 (resized).JPGGOLD PINBALL 001 (resized).JPGGold Pinballs & Gold Newton Ball 001 (resized).JPGGold Pinballs & Gold Newton Ball 001 (resized).JPG
#11258 1 year ago

As stated above, the gold CoinTaker pinballs & the gold AU Newton ball are of the exact same size & hue. The gold AU Newton ball is also the exact same size, including the machine screw shaft, as the steel Newton ball installed in the original LE Hobbit. When I installed the gold AU Newton ball, I noticed that the original Newton was loose. With installation, on the playfield side, there are two small washers through which the shaft goes. They need to be kept & used with installation so that the Newton ball exactly "kisses" the captive ball. On the underside of the playfield, there is a small washer & a locknut to anchor the Newton shaft. Between the washer & locknut, I added an additional lock washer for security.

#11261 1 year ago
Quoted from Prophet:

I bought these from Tilt Graphics: https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/hobbit-treasure-trove-gameblades. They look great in the game especial if you get the 3d printed coin flipper mods. However the game is so tight in the cabinet, it will ruin the blades so you HAVE TO buy https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html and use them EVERYTIME you lift the playfield. No exceptions. Look at the image of my game with them installed. [quoted image]

Word of caution with use of the mirror blade vinyl protector sleeves: When inserting/removing sleeves, do so carefully & slowly. When you raise the playfield, make sure the sleeves do not raise too. If they do, the adjacent mirror blades will develop fine abrasions from the moving protectors.

#11268 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

We have a few, the translite and the gold trough/backboard along with the lit Gandalf are the most popular.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/categories/the-hobbit-pinball-mods
[quoted image][quoted image]

I highly recommend the Lermods translite. I prefer the WARM white, vs. the COOL white!!! It's easy to install. After installation, you are left with the original LED white strip (12v.) in the upper 2/3 thirds of the backbox. I had a free 2 split (12v.) Molex connector after installation of Trumpahche's pile of gold pulsating Arkenstone. I used that connector to activate the original LED strip. The result is very dramatic, though subtle.

Note: Minor irritating problem: At the lower corners of the translite, there is transmitted light between the translite black framing. I know there is an easy fix. Do you just tape the corners with black electrician tape? I know this has been a problem with other pinball machines. What is a better permanent fix than electrician tape?

#11270 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Hadn’t noticed this and if you look at the pic I posted, I don’t see any light bleed. maybe adhere the leds strip facing inward along the wall rather than outward along the monitor.

Lermods: There is absolutely NOTHING WRONG with your mod!!! I would not change your installation instructions. The problem is with the quality control of the black translite framing.

#11271 1 year ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Lermods: There is absolutely NOTHING WRONG with your mod!!! I would not change your installation instructions. The problem is with the quality control of the black translite framing.

Sorry to waste a pinside post but I had a shot of Jack Daniel's. The light bleeding @ each lower corner of my translite is secondary to the lower lift frame too short (1/2") resulting in a 1/4" window at each lower corner. With manipulation, I made them symmetric in appearance & they are not too distracting. Somewhere on Pinside, there was a post using an adhesive backed foam strip to block the bleeding.

Note: I've had other quality control issues with JJP's Hobbit. Thank God for the Hobbit Owners Thread for immediate fixes. If you haven't, DONATE TO PPINSIDE!!!

#11276 1 year ago

If you haven't yet purchased the Book Cover & Stand from the LSofG ($175), or you are waiting for a back order, photos are of a quick fix to make the metal stand of the original book mod more esthetic while you wait. My quick fix can't compare to the LSofG Mod, but it "ain't too bad." If you haven't purchased the LSoG mod, I highly recommend it (I did but it was on back order, waiting 3+ months, so I came up with this quick fix for the interim).

You do not have to remove the book/stand unit from the playfield. The stand in the photo is a backup I had purchased from JJP.

Get a thin sheet of cedar, found in most cigar boxes (esp., Oliva V). Cut it to size (approx. 1.6 cm X 6.5 cm). If it's thin, you can use a paper cutter. Stain it with acrylic Burnt Sienna (I used Golden Fluid Acrylics brand). Affix stained cedar strip to metal stand with two 1 cm glue dots.

As you can see, the edge of the book cover & the cedar strip are a perfect match in color.

Hobbit Book Stand 001 (resized).JPGHobbit Book Stand 001 (resized).JPGHobbit Book Stand 002 (resized).JPGHobbit Book Stand 002 (resized).JPG
3 weeks later
#11314 1 year ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

Hobbit and Woz Extended Play Coil Cooler kits back in stock!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec[quoted image]

I have yet to experience "flipper fatigue" in my LE Hobbit, unlike with Stranger Things & Pirates of the Caribbean.

Trumpanche & other Pinsiders: Have you had "flipper fatigue" with your Hobbits?

The advertised Extended Play Coil Cooler Kits appear as an excellent mod @ a very reasonable price. Should one purchase it as an safeguard? I assume the power supply is 12v.

#11318 1 year ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

Hobbit and Woz Extended Play Coil Cooler kits back in stock!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec[quoted image]

Is the power source 12v?

#11320 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Definitely get them. Its a high quality product and easy to install.
Hobbit is a heavy multiball usage game.
Adding mode balls guarantees lots of 5 or 6 ball multiballs.
Flipper fade is noticeable after about 25 mins of play, whereas earlier in the game the flippers had tons of power, a new mulitball will have less and less power to the point that balls are harder to make the ramps. This is especially noticeable during Smaug multiball and ITF modes where you have to make the ramps a lot to clear the mode. After than you get Barrel Escape where you need to make the ramps again, and so on.
Adding the coolers gives consistent power enough to make the ramps properly even after 45 mins of play.
The power on these fans comes nearly directly off the transformer, there is little to no effect on the game.
Its not just patched into a GI socket like a lot of the silly mods.

Pinballinreno: My above post was posted without reading your response carefully about power supply. Thank you for your rseponse. My bad!

1 week later
#11328 1 year ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

yes they are 12v.

If I can't figure out your hook-up power source per the furnished instructions, can't I use a GI 12v source?

#11330 1 year ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

The cooler kit gets power from a 4 pin molex connector in the back of the cabinet. A printed color install guide is included with the kit and it really couldn’t be any simpler. If you are having trouble getting it hooked up send me a PM and I’ll be glad to help. You can power the kit anyway you want it’s your game but I can’t offer any support if something goes wrong in that scenario.

Sorry for my ignorance. I installed fans today according to the provided instructions with ease!! Your mod/fans are professionally made & easy to install. I do have one question: There are three matrix leads to the fans of which only two are used. Why the third?

#11331 1 year ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Sorry for my ignorance. I installed fans today according to the provided instructions with ease!! Your mod/fans are professionally made & easy to install. I do have one question: There are three matrix leads to the fans of which only two are used. Why the third?

For give my ignorance again. The third lead is probably for a third fan for the right upper flipper if one so chooses.

Your mod is fantastic & I recommend it to all hobbit owners!!!

2 months later
#11483 1 year ago

This is a unrelated question to the above recent posts, but I am requesting help: If one looses the duplicate keys to the backbox lock (damn grandkid), what are my options? Call a locksmith & replace the lock, or drill out the lock & replace it? If you drill out the lock, what size bit do you use & how hard is it? Where does one get a replacement lock? On Amazon?

*** I also got a survey from JJP asking where I got info about my LE Hobbit's problems, remedies & repairs. I replied: "THE HOBBIT OWNERS THREAD on Pinside, esp., LTG!" What's admirable about LTG, he's still assisting on our thread & his replies are immediate, usually within 24 hrs. Thank you LTG!!!

6 months later
#11838 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

Yes. Love them. Noticeably more power in the flippers, along with the increased precision. Been running these on Hobbit for about 6 months now, and super happy with them.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm unfamiliar with CNC filler (or is it flipper) bats. Do you still use the coil with installation? Do you still get flipper fade?

1 month later
#11897 10 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Little shop of games; art of lior/ pinball product's.

Quoted from mrossman5:

Does anyone have/know where I could get a mod to make the book screen look better? Would love to have something to cover the metal bar.

Check my post 11276!

#11899 10 months ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

Unfortunately it’s out of stock with no chance to return. Is that the only one out there?

Did you check my post 11276? I'm assuming you want to cover the metal book stand when you said metal bar. The post is on page 226.

#11900 10 months ago

On multiple recent & previous posts, I see numerous pinsiders without a Heart after their pinside avatar pic. It's important to maintain Pinside website, not only for the Hobbit Owners Thread but for all others. Donate Now!! $30 a year (or more) is well worth it to maintain Pinside.

1 week later
#11920 10 months ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where are the gold coins/circle discs from shown in your photo?

4 months later
#12501 6 months ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Still looking for a topper for my Hobbit. I would even be open to working with someone to design/prototype one if someone is up for it. Seems like such a great title to have a kick ass topper on.

Make your own topper with Hobbit Figures purchased from BIGBADTOYSTORE or Amazon. You can even try eBay. My topper Smaug (photos 1 & 2) was purchased from BBTS for $249. It is ceramic & a little heavy. It's been out of production for years. A nice available Smaug is the Hobbit Mini Epics Smaug made of vinyl (photo 3). It is 11.8 inches high and sells for $190.75 on Amazon ($199.99 on BBTS). You can attach figures to top of backbox with Velcro or double sided adhesive tape (I use the Gorilla brand). I would also recommend the purchase of two low voltage (10v or 12v) spotlights to high light Smaug. For my topper, I also added Gollum & Sméagol, each with a gold ring on the finger.

DSCN1565 (resized).JPGDSCN1565 (resized).JPGDSCN1571 (resized).JPGDSCN1571 (resized).JPGDSCN1559 (resized).JPGDSCN1559 (resized).JPG
#12506 6 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Love your Hobbit corner! Nice stuff.
I was a projectionist in the 90's and my esticits think you need a movie poster on that blank wall.
I'm also an art director so don't take my comment personally.
I just go over the top on everything.

Thanks for the suggestion. Hobbit movie poster ordered.

#12507 6 months ago

Just a note to Hobbit Thread Pinsiders:
My son is an avid pinballer & collector. He has 18+ machines & recently received Jersey Jack's Collector Edition of The God Father. He's played it 40+ times and says my LE Hobbit is a far superior game.

#12516 6 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Well, ummm I feel like the credibility might be in question. There's no "functional" difference between any Hobbit version lol. Symantecs.
If anyone has followed the "Worst games you've ever owned" thread, TH is mentioned a few times. I do get it honestly. It's a barren playfield. It's a widebody and with everything on the outer edges (excluding beast mechs) regardless of pitch it's just a slower floaty game. And someone please feel free to argue when I say ....... this game feels like going from a bar sized pool table to an official sized table. The shots become harder. Trying to hit the spinners cleanly is a real challenge, at least for me it is. If I start and stay playing this game it's all easier but if I start one a standard body and change I'm absolute shit.
Too much of this machine is/feels unintentional - more on that in a bit.
I'll just say over the years you never hear the haters talk about the difficult shots. The ones that really provide a sense of accomplishment. The kind of feeling you get when you hit a 3/4 way combo type of feeling on Funhouse or Addams. TH - intentionally hitting the closest to flippers drop targets, upper flipper shot to Balin or Thorin. And Smaug MB is one of the BEST and hardest modes to beat "intentionally". I've beaten Smaug several times but only 2 or 3 were me intentionally making the kill shot. I've owned this machine since release. I've made it to and through TABA, but I don't believe I've ever intentionally completed every mode. What I mean is I strongly suspect the modes have all been beaten, but it was mostly if not solely completed by a stacked multi ball and dumb luck. There's a couple modes that are downright freaking hard. And it's that kind of stuff you don't hear haters talk about, because they haven't spent enough time to fairly judge it ..... they haven't seen/experienced it in its full glory. TH on its face is a turd, but under the crap it's a freaking diamond.

Who is CLEllison? Is he a regular on our Hobbit thread? I notice he doesn't have a red heart after his name. Maybe he should put his money where his mouth is!

#12524 5 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Love your Hobbit corner! Nice stuff.
I was a projectionist in the 90's and my esticits think you need a movie poster on that blank wall.
I'm also an art director so don't take my comment personally.
I just go over the top on everything.

Hobbit Movie Poster displayed. Purchased from Amazon. Type in Smaug Movie Poster and take your pick. I highly recommend "Trends International Hobbit: The Battle Of Five Armies-Smaug Wall Poster." It has two sizes: small (approx. 15x22") & large (approx. 22x34"). You can buy it framed or unframed. There are multiple frame colors. I choose the smaller black framed poster for esthetic display purposes. Framed poster is unbelievably professional & pristine! Shipment is fast and framed poster extremely well protected for shipment.

DSCN1589 (resized).JPGDSCN1589 (resized).JPGDSCN1593 (resized).JPGDSCN1593 (resized).JPG
#12526 5 months ago
Quoted from Days:

I recommend, they look really great on my Hobbit!

I ordered a set. Are they really that easy to install as many pinsiders say? What if you make a mistake and the strip is not centered or off parallel. Can you reapply?

#12532 5 months ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Yes. So long as you don’t do it many times. It takes roughly 15 minutes for the adhesive to really stick. With that said I would say you have a few minutes to play around. I wouldn’t try to change things after a few minutes have passed.

Quoted from bjorg:

I messed up on one of the strips by attaching it to the wrong side. Tooke me a few minutes to realize once I had installed it. It peeled off easily and went on right away again. So, definitely noobie friendly!

Thanks for your immediate responses!!!

1 week later
#12557 5 months ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Yes. So long as you don’t do it many times. It takes roughly 15 minutes for the adhesive to really stick. With that said I would say you have a few minutes to play around. I wouldn’t try to change things after a few minutes have passed.

Guy,

Could you post a photo of the ramp decal set before installation. I don't think they are the same as decals one applies to model airplanes.

#12559 5 months ago

If one purchases Precision Pinball Products flipper bat, do you also recommend including the bushing? If you include the bushing, how difficult is it to install?

#12562 5 months ago

If you go to the Precision Pinball Product website, it looks like you have to order the bats & bushing. If you just want the bats (3 for Hobbit), it appears there are no rods included.

1 month later
#12599 4 months ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

Hobbit owners: If you have never changed your CR2032 battery, it is probably time... they are only supposed to last 3 years in this application. You don't want to wait for it to die. It will be a bit of a headache to get it going again, and probably will happen at just the wrong time when you need the machine up and playing.
Remember to power on the machine before doing the swap. Also, the instructions in the manual make it sound like you can just pull the old one out after putting some tape on it. That's not going to work. Put the tape on, but you will need to pull the little tab that is towards the front of the machine forward towards the front of the machine to unlatch the coin and let it pop up. Be gentle. It does not take much.
Also, pro tip: Do it lefthanded. If you try to do it right handed, the CPU fan will bite your knuckles. With the power on, that fan is a hummin'.
Have a great day!

Where is the disk battery located? I hope it's in the back box. I hate lifting the playfield.

2 months later
#12725 46 days ago

There are missing posts absent after 12718. What happened? There were posts made before 12719.

1 week later
#12780 33 days ago

Just purchased, received & placed the Hobbit dust cover on my LE Hobbit. I purchased it off of eBay from luckeypinball. His Pinside shop is Dukepinball.

DSCN1599 (resized).JPGDSCN1599 (resized).JPG
#12782 32 days ago
Quoted from beltking:

Where can you get that dragon head topper? Expensive?

I purchased it from Bigbadtoystore.com 10+ years ago. It was $249. Of course, they're out of stock. See Hobbit Post 12501.

#12784 32 days ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

way overpriced, no thanks

I agree but you get what you pay for. See post 12501.

3 weeks later
#12869 12 days ago

I may be "out to lunch" but "proof is in the pudding". I have no flipper fade in my LE Hobbit #1000/1500. I installed flipper coil fans for the lower two flippers. I also installed 3 complete Precision Pinball flipper mechanisms: Gold metal bat, metal bushing and bracket with special bat axle. All reduce the resistance of the coil when the plunger is fired: Less resistance = less overheating? The bracket is streamlined & simple in appearance compared to the original bracket installed by JJJP. The axle rod has a flat surface where it is screw anchored to the bracket, not a round curved surface. It takes about 20 to 30 min. to install each flipper site, including fine tuning. If you encounter any problems, Precision Pinball (John) responds immediately via Pinside mail. The cost is approximately $330 for all three sets, but units are of the highest quality in construction & materials. It might seem expensive but I've spent will over $600+ from Little Shop of Games for their mods. With installation, I had to reduce the flipper strength from default setting of 22 to 18 on the lower flippers and from 18 to 16 on the right upper flipper.

#12877 11 days ago

I purchased & installed the same fans. They are of good quality & easy to install.

#12881 10 days ago
Quoted from docdeath:I purchased & installed the same fans. They are of good quality & easy to install.

Quoted from VisitorQ:

Had fans on my Stranger Things, saw no difference. "shrug"

After installing the flipper fans on the lower two flippers (I must also add that they are extremely quite), I still had residual flipper fade. That's why I decided to install the Precision Pinball flipper sets. Now there is no fade detected. In addition, with just the fans, I had to leave the flipper strengths on the default settings. With Precision flipper sets, I had to reduce the strengths as previously noted in recent previous post.

#12892 8 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Have you installed the capacitor mod yet?
I built up the heculease ones (Im too cheap to buy them) as they are super easy to install, but havent put them in yet.
For $15 it looks like a simple solution

No. Presently I see no need to. My flipper systems are perfect with the installation of fans & Precision Pinball flipper products. With just the Precision Pinball flipper products, the fans may have not been necessary but I had bought & installed them first.

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