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(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 9,317 posts
  • 582 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Energyspike
  • Topic is favorited by 224 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (4 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (4 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (4 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (4 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (4 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (4 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (4 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (4 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3940 3 years ago

So just almost finished my Hobbit rebuild for a question for you all does the Red Light stay on behind the dragon all the time? Brightens up as a flasher but stays on the rest of true game on low. Had some led issues so not sure I sorted them all out yet or not. Thanks all

#3945 3 years ago

To me it looks like the eye and is always present sort of like the Wizzard on WOZ it was a logical choice just part of the set that was not working so I was like hmmmm.

2 weeks later
#4020 2 years ago
Quoted from jgeiger:

Anyone know a source for the rollover buttons on the playfield? Mine wore through and the top of one of the buttons came off the post. Havnt found a replacement online anywhere.

JJP you have to call for them or send an email they also will want to know if yours have a single white washer on them or two since each playfield is different. Some have zero - I had a replacement with an extra washer and the ball hops we're crazy huge pain to remove the washer so find it out before calling or sending in support request.

1 week later
#4075 2 years ago

So both JJ games have a whiney shakers any idea on how to fix.

1 week later
#4091 2 years ago

My game is at extreme but still noisy any other ideas?

3 weeks later
#4167 2 years ago

Loving it - updated WOZ the other day, and right of the bat the switch check found an error on my machine that I had not noticed - glad to see they ported this to the Hobbit as well, also so interesting to see a user mention an issue with Audio and boom a fix - this level of support just makes me go wow.

2 months later
#4338 2 years ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

I am picking up an HUO Smaug on Sunday.
Can you tell me which playfield protectors are a must?
What pitch are most of you playing at? I would like to avoid "floaty" with this game.
Is Smaug the most common version of the game? It seems it to me as there are at least 3 in my neighborhood.
Thanks for the advice.

Mylar that they sell on the website for the trolls

1 week later
#4358 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Couldn't agree more. I thought this game was a dud. I bought one. WOW! I was SOOOOO wrong about everything. Such a great game!

Same I have thought that about every Keith game that turns out epic the more I hate a Keith game the more I just know to purchase it. Ha ha ha

1 month later
#4503 2 years ago
Quoted from estrader:

How do I know if a machine I'm wanting to purchase has the 2.0 boards and what is the difference between 2.0 and the prior version. Thanks in advance for any info.

I have version one the wiring is a tad smaller and can break from the connector. They have replacement parts and it's rock solid just not as good as 2.0 I would buy any version that fits your price range my game had thousands of plays on it and only 3 light issues that were inexpensive to fix.

2 weeks later
#4576 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Could be just OS version number, maybe an update to the OS or to the platform in general.

The wait sounds like it will be worth considering Ted Estes, one of the best pinball programmers, has been working on it a lot for the last couple months. Factor his work in plus what is to come from Keith, Joe, etc and it should be one hell of a code update I hope.

Plus the bones of this game are just crazy good - love the modes - can't wait to experience them a little more in depth.

#4590 2 years ago
Quoted from BigT:

Mine stops it most times probably around 80 percent, the other times are fast moving balls.

Same - I always just tell myself it's a supposed to do that. Darn it now I know

#4643 2 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Yes, we talked about the Hobbit code a decent amount. Whats changing, what is being redone, wizard mode, etc.
Interview is almost 2 hours because we talk ALOT. It will be up on on Monday morning/afternoon US time

I massively hate you right now but will 180 on Monday!

#4654 2 years ago

Wow this sounds epic!

2 months later
#4852 2 years ago

Updated and added sound effects in a bunch of places

Wow just wow thanks! Can't wait

#4872 2 years ago

I have a code release party set let just hope the time table holds up!

#4882 2 years ago
Quoted from Georgeh:

People that sold their game at a loss will be bleeding . Jjp where always going to update it the question was when . And when is now

Code won't change layout or general perception of game I love it those who don't still won't I say it wins over a few people and for those of us Enjoy it just got a major upgrade

#4885 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Code support can affect game value and game perception in big ways. Stern Star Trek and Metallica are proof of that.

True heck I was a hell no on WOZ and code changed it - when your right your right

#4906 2 years ago

Leved - check, waxed - check, popups tweeked - check, usb in computer - check, now I just need the CODE!!! Let's go time hurry on up

#4929 2 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

Who's excited for tomorrow?

This guy!

#4936 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Major ones.
Always a chance an insignificant tiny one doesn't show up until the Pinside players get on it. And if there are any, they'll get fixed.
LTG : )

I have an early release game v1 to f the lights you need another tester on the original game send me the link I will sign a NDA

#4941 2 years ago

Will Keith be doing cartwheels when it drops I will be for him (even if its assisted)

#4985 2 years ago

Love the update the mode completion percentage is much loved update. Only thing I have found is in one mode it says avoided red shots right and left loop however just hitting the spinner ends the mode - reason it mattered is an entire loop shot is a more aggressive miss then just a spinner.

#4991 2 years ago

The ability to actively see feedback going Into v3 is simply amazing - Even if your bug / suggestion does not make it the end product is just a great process thanks Ted and all of team JJ

#5026 2 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

Ever try playing Hobbit with arrow launcher not working? I couldn't figure out why no balls were getting diverted to left outlane while playing on new code. Found and resolved my issue. The mech is attached to the ramp and held in place by one machine screw about 1/8 inch long. Very insignificant looking item. The screw had come out and mech was roughly in place but hanging down and not working. Fixed it and now diverted works as intended and the game plays much better now.

I am an idiot yes yes I have never once loaded it and was like wonder how that works all these people talking about loading the arrow I can't seem to figure it out

#5030 2 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

First go into test menu and coil test. Near the end of list is one for arrow. Set it to run and pull out white coin door interlock switch, and you should see the arrow diverter working. Might not be running full power but arm should poke through two bottom rails. If it is blocked, loosen screw on top holding it, twist to find sweet spot and tighten in place.
Then during game mode you'll eventually notice the load arrow insert lit solid purple. Send a ball up the right ramp and it should be diverted. (Oh, first use ring button to turn off lock light. This should work when ramp is either unlit or maybe with mode light is on, not sure about lock light). Give it a try and report back.
The arrow adds a ton to the game, and its ingenuity is under appreciated. Sometimes it serves as a skill shot to MAN targets, some of the modes use the arrow feature, and then of course it is needed to kill Smaug. So yeah, you might to take a look at yours.

Not plugged in from my shop job I was wondering and wondering what I did not understand about this game and killing Smaug I was like even if I am so so terrible I have had a long enough multiball to at least get some progress.

#5033 2 years ago

So now that I have a left ramp what are the bending adjustments required to keep it from jumping and going right into the drain. I have seen it mentioned a few places but don't recall where

#5035 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Center the wireform over the right return lane, loosen lock nut to move wireform and retighten. Turn flipper strength down a little.
LTG : )

Thanks as always LTG - another moment in dumb Hobbit trilogy spot light was very much bumping that ball across the room well ok perhaps not that dump looks like I have the old wire form only one cross bar is that fixable or do I need to purchase the replacement part?

#5037 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Some people have put a post there to stop the ball from getting stuck against the sidewall. If you want the newer version, probably have to buy it if it's available.
LTG : )

On order!

#5040 2 years ago
Quoted from sulli10:

I did two things to improve this problem. First were the wire ramp is screwed down closest to the drain, I removed the screw and the ramp cold sprung in the up direction. I believe where the ramp bends down about three inches from this screw created a jump of sorts. I put a black rubber piece from an outline post under the ramp wire form where it is screwed down to remove the cold spring and this iminimized the jump effect. I also bent the loop at the very end of the ramp up slightly upwards to “catch” a slight air ball better. Seems to have worked pretty well.
I had previously reduced the coiil power on the right Flipper so that the ball was not traveling as fast on a clean shot up the ramp.

Thanks sure did fix it! A bit of a different game with well the entire left lane in play. Just thought it was like flying rocks and rather rare to get a ball over there..... For a loose plug and a rubber dang I got a new game with new code to boot.

1 month later
#5206 2 years ago

I spoke with Frank a week ago they are doing an entire reramp of the parts wharehouse it's a disjointed mess right now. They likely don't know what they have they have sent me the wrong part 2x already.

3 months later
#5958 1 year ago
Quoted from Bartzenegger:

I’m having a terrible time trying to get it 3.0 loaded!i had to walk away and have some beers! Tried 3 different flash drives
.any thoughts ? Pin won’t recognize software. I’m on 2.95
Thanks I’m gonna have another beer just cuz!✌️

Yeah faught this myself and realised I kept formatting my SD card in my machine like tripple read the instructions - also reformat stick - and directly connect to the machine not the long USB cord.

2 weeks later
#6058 1 year ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

The first time it happened, we bought a new assembly, for two reasons: because just the bracket (which has the ledge) wasn't available to purchase separately, and to have some extra spare parts on hand for later. On later occasions we just super-glued the ledges back together, more or less. It looks a bit crappy, but has worked like a charm for 8+ months so far. If you want to solve it the nice way, the brackets are now available separately, for way less money than the assembly.

So my game was in route before I got it around 7K games played, the things that were broken were: (As told to me and found)

Axes on the slings 3 in total.
Some of the "trolls" had been replaced I think 2.
2 of the target assemblies had broken in a stand off spot, repaired
3 Roll over assemblies
B.A.R.G (I think) Small Led board had a blown fuse sent for repair, found shorted wire.
Dragons mouth had a wire break
Side Art was worn from hands only one side
Led spotlights were rather dim and I replaced

My Back from lugging it around.

2 weeks later
#6153 1 year ago
Quoted from Jireteg:

After the 3.0 update my upper left flash light is continuously flashing in attract mode, is this the way it should be or Is there any fix that I need to do?, See video of the light in attract mode.

No it should not do that - loose connection or failing bulb swap bulbs and see if behavior changes

#6155 1 year ago
Quoted from Jireteg:

Thanks, It is actually more than one, but when I looked now more closely 2 of the 4 spotlight bulbs were black, can this be the problem. Have new bulbs coming and are going to test with all 4 working. Connections is ok. When I test these lights in the led test they blink slowly both when testing solid light and flashing.
When I move the working ones on the left side to the right side it is the same flashing.

All I can say is my game does not flash at all these to my knowledge are on or off. Something is off but I can't be of much help.

1 week later
#6296 1 year ago
Quoted from davisjl1979:

Thanks for the clip! Just a few hundred more games and you'd have enough tickets to get an MP3 Player!!!!

A zune!

#6354 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

3.10 is rock solid on my Hobbit. Just played a game that must have been 45 minutes and the game didn’t experience a single glitch. Reached level 3 Into the Fire, level 2 Barrel Escape, level 2 Battle of Five Armies and killed Smaug twice. The audio, video and immersion in this game is second to none, what a rush! A deep game of Hobbit really feels like an epic journey.
[quoted image]

Put the glass back on... WOW

#6364 1 year ago
Quoted from wolv3:

Hey I just found my EOS switch for the upper right flipper snapped in half so I'll need to order a new one. What other spare parts should I get? So far I'm planning on getting some springs for the beast door flaps and probably one of each of the different coils.
[quoted image]

If your going with JJ for parts I would get a few rollovers they are going to ask what type of spacer you have in them - just say you will assemble them as needed it's easy

2 months later
#6763 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It's amazing to watch and hit it now.
In fact a little super lube has revitalized all my spinners.
I never paid much attention to them til now.
They are fun!

I did this as well and its perhaps a tad to easy to get to, but i'll adjust up and watch them spin!

2 months later
#7170 1 year ago

So on the latest code can't find where to adjust the windlance power I have adjusted the metal guide and it was feeding well updated code a bit ago and lost the setting what am I overlooking thanks

1 month later
#7325 1 year ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Maybe they can tweak the code a bit to kill lower flippers when you load the windlance during Smaug multiball, and you can only kill Smaug from upper flipper. To make it fair if you miss the first shot you can get a second try within a given amount of time(hurry up).

I second this it's so hard to get to this point and no matter how I adjust my game I can't get this feeding correctly so it's a bad penalty

1 month later
#7634 1 year ago
Quoted from tronlover:

I bought my Hobbit LE about a month ago from a guy who had less than 50 plays on it...and it's number 14/1500, so early boards. It has this same issue of all LED's lights freezing but triggers being playable until a hard reset. The problem is it went from occurring after 30+ min of being on to 2+ min of being on recently. Following this thread I see it "might" be a BAG board but wasn't sure if I missed anything else in the 150+ pages or other threads. Anyone have a solid answer outside BAG replacement?

Only occuring when playing or in attract mode wonder if a wire has pulled and is shorting to metal I had other issues but that was the source of my BAG problems

1 month later
#7829 11 months ago

So I have one drop target that is stuttering when trying to kick up and ultimately failing took the assembly apart and did not see anything cleaned it for fun and tried to bend the metal a bit that drops it when it's up worked for about three games then acting up again - ultimately increased the power to the drop targets and the issue is gone but would rather that not be the long term solution any ideas what I am looking for?

2 months later
#8119 8 months ago
Quoted from Jazz_Jack:

Any idea where I can find the black plastic part that holds the drop target up?[quoted image]

I got some from Marcos if you get the manual out you can find the part number.

1 month later
#8321 7 months ago

For me when the jaw stopped working it was a just a wire that had come undone so think basic as well

#8328 7 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Do you remember which wire? I'm thinking basic too! : )
Thanks Coz6!

It was a wire that went into the Molex connector so like I said really basic... But I also have a spare motor because I rushed to those thoughts as well.

7 months later
#9301 6 days ago
Quoted from Antron77:

So my Hobbit has been out of commission for about a month now. I have had the game since March, second owner, the game had about 100 plays on it when I got and has a little over 1000 now. Looking to see if anyone can help. Need a different set of eyes to see if they can catch something we didn't. I have spent about 10 hours troubleshooting this with different JJP tech support.
One day it was working fine, never had a problem with booting up or crashing mid game. They next day I go to turn it on the game doesnt boot correctly. The big lcd says no signal, the small book lcd turns blue and says VGA upside down, the playfield lights dont come on, nor does the topper lights. The IO board lights turn on, the amplifier board lights turn on, all the small boards mounted underneath the playfield lights turn on, the mother board fan comes on, as well as other power like the coin door lights.
Troubleshooting I did was got the multimeter out tested the voltage on the motherboard battery and the 12 pin connector seated on the mother board. They tested fine, 3 volts, 5 volts, and 12 volts all where they are supposed to be. Tried the jump start with a paperclip and didnt work(although mine has a wire basically built in as a jump start, pic below). Took off the big lcd screen and hooked the game up to a separate monitor which wouldn't boot. Reseated the long green chip on the motherboard(forgot the name of it). Basically reseated every connector in the backbox and bottom of the cabinet. Everything looked fine and nothing helped.
So I sent the motherboard into JPP since thats what they suggested. Said maybe it needed to be reflashed or the BIOS restored. JPP said the motherboard tested fine and there was nothing wrong with it. They sent it back, I put everything back together, booted it back up and still has the same problem. JPP mentioned it might be the power supply but I dont have a back up one to test. Although the 1st rep I worked with kind of ruled that out as the motherboard voltages were all reading right when we measured them with my multimeter.
So here I am asking for any suggestions. I am out of options other than calling back into JJP again to start troubleshooting anything we might have missed. Please help if you can think of anything. Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I had a WOZ go down and it was a connector that I did not notice had come out - I was chasing the CPU board for a bit and like somebody else said it was a power supply board - get this part link » and see if you can rule out the power or rule it in as the issue. For me the telling sign was the fans would power on for a second then kick off. Also I did the reseat of the memory prior to finding the power issue, and did not seat that back in well, so once I solved the power supply issue I found I had created another that acts in the same way, so if you reseated the memory prior to sending out you should be fine as JJ checked your board, if you did it after try that one again as well.

#9303 6 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

That tester won't put a load on the power supply. I've seen way to many over the years that test fine but can't handle the load when hooked up. I stopped carrying my tester and just carry an extra power supply. It's just as fast to hook up a spare power supply as it is to hook up the tester.

Your 100% wrong - sorry just trying to pass the day by getting into a internet fight... thanks for the info - will help me down the road for sure.

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